Відео

Good to see the big boss make an appearance,

🇬🇧🇩🇰😀👍

🇬🇧🇩🇰😀👍

Nice looking door - good job. I've started cutting almost half way with the TS, then flipping it over and almost cutting half way again. I then finish the small middle section on the band saw. I don't like surprises and even with a riving knife, there's no guarantee it won't bind up. Cheers

Hey DT i am a wood worker too from jamaica i subsribe and look forward for your videos all the time

Keep up the good work

Thats an old one. Most SCM stuff I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole to press the start button. But I have used the later t 110 and 120. They are okay. The fence assemblies arent the best but they work. You can set them up as a single end tenoner if you get an aftermarket clamping cradle. Takes up less room but not as fast as a dedicated machine of course.

The old delta unisaw was a decent machine. There's hardly a woodshop in America that doesn't have one. But most of their stuff is kinda second rate. I hated Rockwell Delta bandsaws and thicknessers. The shapers aren't much chop either. They did make good drill presses though.

Gor blimey four tenoners, no one's got four tenoners but you are right when you got machines setup it becomes a production line much quicker, we had seven spindle moulders setup only for doing kitchen doors.

wonderful information, I own 5 RAS...all Dewalt.....16 inch, [3 ] 10 inch and a 9 inch.......thanks

Worked in several wood shops and never saw any safety guards

Thanks for your videos. I love old English woodworking machinery. I'm retired and my Wadkins live in my garage/workshop and are hobby machines. I have a 1925 Wadkin LP recessing and boring machine (like an LQ); a 1926 Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1936 Wadkin CK radial arm saw*; a 1945 Wadkin PK dimension saw*; another (untagged so I can't date it, but ~1946) Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1951 Wadkin RT 6" wood lathe; and a 1928 Preston Woodworking Machinery (Canada) 30" bandsaw*. Some are undergoing overhaul, * some are runners.

Thanks for the tour. Looking at your EP spindle moulder, you suggest it was built around 1960. More likely between 1946 and 1951. What's more, it appears it was built by Sentinel (the steam lorry building company) for Wadkin. If you look on the left hand side of the base there are three tags. I'm sure the bottom tag says "Manufactured for and to the design of Wadkin Ltd by Sentinel (Shrewsbury) Ltd". Apparently after WW2 Wadkin had too many orders and so sub-contracted out the manufacture of some machines. Sentinel seem to have got all the EPA sub-contracts. Cheers, Vann.

Thy

All the time, it’s a nightmare. Even in accoya it can happen 🤷 I usually get a ‘feel’ for how it’s moving and over cut based off that , ie. skim face and edge and leave a bit of time .. then repeat… and if it seems to have settled down I’ll thickness. Even then sometimes I’ll pop it on a pile on jointer over night‘weighted’ Worst I ever had was a couple of cube of ‘thermally modified hemlock’. At least 60 percent was shot to shit inside / totally unusable from about 3 mm in the whole way, it was shocking. Some you could pick the cell collapse just looking at it in the rough!! But some caught you out. The most annoying thing was the ‘good stuff’ was fantastic !

Wow! Nice work Gary. It would be interesting to see it in place. Strange having frosted glass for a kitchen 🤨 Maybe the view was not to their liking 😁

Nice work integrating the old and new. Cheers

That sure is a unique looking window. Nice job!

Great work as always. Clever solutions to custom requests. Would be interesting to see it in installed. Thanks for sharing

Something different, great work would be great to see it in place and paint up

Aussie artisan...😁👍

First

Or just tighten the feed unit

These are gorgeous! Wait... what is that balancer hardware?! That looks so simple to put in. I need to repair some 1920s windows that were DIY flubbed (Originally weights inside the frames, then someone put in these crappy plastic runners later) and have been looking for a balancer replacement and this might just work!

Relative Humidity on the east coast of Australia is generally much higher than 12-15%! See eg. the BOM: www.bom.gov.au/climate/maps/averages/relative-humidity/?maptype=09&period=jul What I think you've confused is that the stated moisture % for wood uses a completely different scale to relative humidity. For wood, it is the weight of the water in it against the weight of the dry wood in it. For relative humidity, it is the fraction of the moisture in the atmosphere against the total capacity of the atmosphere to absorb moisture (at a particular temperature). See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_content#Wood_moisture_measurement and en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidity#Relative_humidity For convenience, Fine Woodworking has produced a table setting out a sort of equivalency chart, which shows what the moisture content of wood will end up at once it's acclimatised to a particular relative humidity (and temperature): www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/equilibrium-moisture-content-chart.pdf Kiln dried timber is often aimed at being used in a climate controlled home, which has a relative humidity usually 30-50%: see the equivalency table at 70 fahrenheit (21 celsius). Timber in a climate controlled home will generally live in the range of 6.2-9.2%. You can't get it down that far through air drying, unless you're doing so in a climate controlled home (not entirely unlike a kiln!). With a higher moisture content than 6-9%, you COULD oversize the thickness of all faces and edges (ends do not shrink or expand) if you're aiming for particular dimensions: the wood will shrink once it acclimatises to the customer's home. See the excellent wood handbook www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf at page 13-15 (page 306 of the pdf) to determine how much it will shrink. Eg if it's going from 14%, expect an originally 290mm wide board of sugar maple to shrink by up to 290 x (0.00353 x (14-6.2) ) = 7.8mm. That's not insignificant, particularly if it's part of a larger panel. And particularly when compared to how much movement acclimatised wood would experience over the course of the seasons, which can be expected to be less than half that: 290 x (0.00353 x (9.2-6.2) ) = 3.1mm. Different woods are better or worse. If you start with wood that's approximately the same as it will end up, you get the same result. That's one of the two great advantages of kiln dried wood. Having said all that, the other advantage, and probably the greater advantage is that you don't end up introducing termites etc into customers' homes. You can reduce some of the waste from kiln dried timber by roughly cutting/planing it oversized, and leaving it a few days before finally dimensioning and using it. Kiln dried timber IS harder on tools, harder to work with, and more likely to bind when ripping. Pros and cons.

Nice to see i'm not the only one with those extra fancy hold downs for the workbench! 🤣 On a less silly note; actually two things. Is that fir? Also, totally get what you said about the grain not always working like it looks. I find it much easier to feel the grain direction before it's dressed. Looking at it when it is can be deceiving.

Nice work replicating the handrail. I was watching you exerting yourself pushing the timber across the spindle moulder while noticing the unused power feeder in the background, I assume it's not working unfortunately :-) Cheers

What do you mean by dressing the wood at 4:15? I haven't got a lot of experience with resawing 😄

East Coast of US here. Our kiln dried hardwoods are usually around 12% moisture content and rarely are there any major issues if the wood is allowed time to acclimate in the shop or on the job site (if used as trim/flooring for example). Not all kilns are the same but timber can be ruined in any type of kiln. 🤷‍♂️ I do prefer air dried timber and most people will agree air dried timber behaves better when steam bending. We have very humid summers here and very dry winters indoors with heating so a lot of seasonal movement to account for with panel doors etc. I wouldn’t be surprised if timber meant for export is processed differently

Thank you for taking the time to explain this. There is a lot of science behind drying I never knew.

Just another thought. With kiln drying, you pretty much guarantee that any bugs and borers will be killed off. This is likely a huge part of why you can't buy exotics that are air dried.

Hi Gary, Interesting you are having the same issues as i am. I'm inland Western Canada. Our humidity levels are all over the place depending on the season. I typically get my KD timber at about 7-8%. I do have the same issues with Doug fir splintering, and hate working with it for that reason. Oak is another one i have issues with checking throughout the boards. I have had material come in where most of it has this issue. I'm not sure if this is simply a trait of oak from North America, but i just don't remember seeing this until fairly recently. I am very out of touch with drying procedures, but it would seem to me they're doing things differently to what used to be done. I don't remember having this many issues even just 20 or 30 years ago. Are they even seasoning it anymore before starting the drying process? Like i said, something has changed. Oh and don't even get me started on how much things move when resawing, i'd be lucky to get one board out of 10 actually remain straight if i have to resaw a bunch of boards! Thanks for the video.

I’m in Florida which has a fairly similar climate to what you’re describing and I do experience some of the issues you’re having but it seems like it’s less frequent. The KD process in the states actually produces lumber to 10-12%, however, the European standards are closer to 5-8%. When you you get your American white oak, is there any chance it’s going through Europe or is it straight from the states?

I wonder how much is due to the timber coming out of plantations or regrowth. Looking at the growth rings on a lot of stuff, it’s not going to respond well to kiln drying.

I prefer air dried timber as well although I’ve had that pretzel on me as well but generally it’s a better product. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers

Kiln dried is shocking Gary, Ive experienced problems a few times now when machining timber thats been kiln dried. Ive had a similar situation when i was once ripping some 'kiln dried' sycamore, soon as it hit the riving knife it went all over the place, 3 lengths of timber shot to shit and unusable. Where i work now ive had the same problem with the steamed beech we use, wants to go back in on itself and hardly ever straightens out. I jump for joy when i get straight lengths! 😅

I can’t pick the timber? Looks too dense and pale to be cedar? Then again it looks light, like WRC?

Awesome craftsmanship-thanks for the education

Beautiful work

Nice work mate. I liked how the video came together👍

Hate being the first to comment but you guys make it look effortless - the pommie and American joiners would have done a 3 part series on gunstock doors - very nice work the three of you.

Nice job. Thanks for uploading. Two questions…what type of glue do you use? And what “type” of putty? Many thanks!

Thanks for sharing! I’d love to have a shop like you have there, so many great machines!

I've been using a table saw for the past 25 years. I've done some pretty stupid things with them and thankfully never had a problem. Just recently I had a very close call. I was free handing ripping some 2x4s. All of a sudden, as I was slowly pushing the lumber through I felt this intense vibration on the middle finger on my left hand. There was no mistaking what it was. Thankfully it just took a small patch of skin about 1mm deep off the tip of my finger. Not sure how I managed to get my finger into that position in the first place but it was a very eye opening experience.

Great video dude! I’m just getting into woodworking and looking at table saws for down the line and the big thing these videos about guards are missing is pretty simple. When exactly does the guard have to/need to come off the blade?

Another great video. Nice to have more good information on UA-cam. Too many videos out there showing bad work practices! When i first moved to Canada i worked for a construction crew. I was amazed at all the (jobsite) table saws i would see without guarding. One day when one of the saws needed replacing, the project manager bought a new saw and brought it to site. I was busy hanging doors, but saw him unpack it and set it up. Later that day i went to use the saw, & the guard and riving knife was gone! I couln't believe it, and told the project manager when i saw him a couple of days later how they had been removed. To my disbelief, he told me he had removed them when he set the saw up & thrown them out with the packaging as they were useless and not needed!!! That was the last straw for me with that crew and that's when i left.

Yep spot on, the fence should always be open about one good mil, even cutting melamine board it can grab not so much MDF but particle more. I think it's got to do with moisture in the material that's getting cut.

A lot of cool machines in that shop

Mate your dad was same as mine a master tradie who was so skilled could do all other trades to perfection , in all I taught TAFE trade carpentry joinery when chippies could make anything , before cut trades to modules and that you level of skill , watching each year new uni twirs in academics use power point to show new ways of trade teaching and never used tools or calculations ,yep , ridiculous , example , we show chisel and handplanes use only ,? but don't teach more than 2 hrs to sharpen ? Imagine 14 young men you want to inspire to get skills and my hand were tired , then what the uni academics orchestrated a cou, get rid of people like me and you and our dad's and put 25 to 30s as teachers ,? It took 5 yrs in decline kids went from able to disabled by staff not being able to use roof squares or hand cut or cut and router onsite as a carpenter goes to stair shop and buys one ? True the education of trades should be by guys and ladies who perform and perfected there craft , compared to now I want to be carpenter ,! I take pictures of some ones work and pay $5 K and get a licence , no wonder no joiners because they took joinery side out of trade and made them kit builders we see today , if you said to a chippies today make a timber window , if he couldn't buy it there stuffed , it's a shame , all the kids I taught 80 % when see me say thanks because I spend time making sure in my classes those in it went out proficient in trade skills , such a shame seeing good skills reduced , love your chanel too

cling film works well instead of newspaper, doesn’t stick to the glue/wood at all.