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DTJoinery
Australia
Приєднався 18 кві 2023
We are professional woodworkers, sharing the inner workings and experiences that working as a Joiner has to offer.
We are a 3 generational business from Australia that was established by Brian in 1974.
Come and join Gary, Brian's son, and Joe, his grandson, as we share our workshop with you and what we get up to.
Our channel covers a variety of content, including overviews of work in progress, our own projects, machinery usage and safety, and general shop talk. We aim to upload a video every Wednesday/Thursday evening.
We hope you enjoy our content, and if you do, please leave a like and subscribe!
Prov 16:3
We are a 3 generational business from Australia that was established by Brian in 1974.
Come and join Gary, Brian's son, and Joe, his grandson, as we share our workshop with you and what we get up to.
Our channel covers a variety of content, including overviews of work in progress, our own projects, machinery usage and safety, and general shop talk. We aim to upload a video every Wednesday/Thursday evening.
We hope you enjoy our content, and if you do, please leave a like and subscribe!
Prov 16:3
Removing Louvres To Match Bottom Panel | Woodworking Projects
In this video, our customer wanted us to remove the fixed louvres in the top of these doors and put a flat panel in that matches the bottom. He wanted to paint the doors, so we went with an mdf panel to minimise movement and to give a nice paint finish, the beading was made from pine.
#woodworking #joinery #woodwork #dtjoinery #doors
#woodworking #joinery #woodwork #dtjoinery #doors
Переглядів: 204
Відео
Setting Up The Old Haige Tenoner
Переглядів 26914 днів тому
In this video, I reset the scribing cutters on our Haige tenoner. This machine has been out of action for around 10 years, due to a burnt out motor. The tenoner is very old, being made in the very early 1900's. #joinery #woodworking #machinery #timber #dtjoinery
Building A Frame Ledge Style Door | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 1,4 тис.21 день тому
We build a frame ledge style door in this video, it has an arched top rail. This was to replace an existing door in a historical building, so it had to be made identical to the door it was replacing. We used Fijian Mahogany, a lovely timber to work. #woodworking #joinery #doors #dtjoinery #woodworker #skills
A Window Design To Accommodate Some Antique sashes | Woodworking Projects.
Переглядів 488Місяць тому
In this video, we make up a frame and a sash, add some louvres to it too, to create a window that our customer had seen a picture of and wanted. 5 of the 6 sashes are old federation style sashes that the customer brought to us, we had to make an additional one to match. This window is the main window in their kitchen. #woodworking #joinery #dtjoinery #diy #woodwork #timber
Machining Timber To Match An Existing Profile. | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 539Місяць тому
In this video we machine up some 6x2 Western Red Cedar to match a sample of handrail that has some rotten timber in it. we use the spindle moulder to do the profiling and finish off cleaning it up with the no4 smoothing plane and sander. #woodworking #joinery #wood #timber #woodwork #dtjoinery #machinery
Kiln Dried Timber: Is It A Failure?
Переглядів 605Місяць тому
In this video, I discuss my experience of the last 20 years using kiln dried timbers. Is it successful, or is it really just about getting a return on investments quicker? #dtjoinery #woodworking #joinery #wood #timber #woodwork
Building A Pair Of Gunstock Style French Doors | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 794Місяць тому
In this video we make 2 pairs of gunstock style french doors, to match the existing heritage doors on site. #woodworking #joinery #dtjoinery #doors #wood #woodwork #frenchdoors #bespoke
Table Saws - My Thoughts On Some Important Issues
Переглядів 8782 місяці тому
In this video, I discuss the problems I see far too often on youtube and the likes, with table usage and the lack of correct operation. I also speak about an oversight I have observed with modern table saw design. #woodworking #joinery #wood #machinery #dtjoinery #tablesaw #timber
How To - Cut A Flawless Scarf | Woodworking
Переглядів 4012 місяці тому
In this video, I show how we go about creating a scarf joint when it is necessary for us to do so. I use the PP Wadkin dimensions saw to create the cut, this comes of the saw so clean that I can glue up straight from the cut, with no additional prep needed. #joinery #woodworking #dtjoinery #woodwork #machinery #skills
Some of My Rare Antique Hand Planes
Переглядів 5593 місяці тому
In This video, I show off some of my more rare hand planes and give a brief overview of each one. #woodworking #joinery #woodwork #dtjoinery #machinery #handplane
Making Window Sill From 7 x 3 Hardwood
Переглядів 1,5 тис.3 місяці тому
In this video, I make up a few pieces of window sill for a window frame that has a double hung window on either side of a fixed pane. The sill is made from 7x3 (175 x 75) Kwila. #woodworking #joinery #woodwork #machinery #skills #spindlemoulder #dtjoinery
Wadkin BEM Spindle Moulder - An Overview
Переглядів 1,4 тис.3 місяці тому
In this video I give a brief overview of our Wadkin BEM Spindle Moulder, believed by many as the best spindle moulder ever made. #woodworking #joinery #machinery #dtjoinery #spindlemoulder
Building A Colonial Styled Curved fanlight | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 2,2 тис.3 місяці тому
In this video, we build a curved fanlight with 5 colonial bars coming up from a centre block. this was made unglazed as lead lights were going to be installed into the frame. #woodworking #joinery #bespoke #dtjoinery #skills #windows #fijianmahogany
Collecting The Delta Spindle Moulder
Переглядів 6404 місяці тому
In this video, we go on a road trip to collect the Delta Spindle Moulder, That we had bought for the fence and hood arrangement to put on our SCM T120. Whilst the Delta is quite rusty on the table, everything else appears to be ok. We will most likely clean it up and connect it to power to make sure it works. The bearings are a little dry sounding but if not too bad, we will put it into product...
How To Sharpen A Handsaw - 84 Yr Old Joiner
Переглядів 2,7 тис.4 місяці тому
How To Sharpen A Handsaw - 84 Yr Old Joiner
SCM T120C - An Overview Of Our Newest Spindle Moulder
Переглядів 7634 місяці тому
SCM T120C - An Overview Of Our Newest Spindle Moulder
Building A Queen Size Bed Part 2 | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 2915 місяців тому
Building A Queen Size Bed Part 2 | Woodworking Projects
Building A Queen Sized Bed, Part 1 | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 1,1 тис.5 місяців тому
Building A Queen Sized Bed, Part 1 | Woodworking Projects
Hand-tool Competency, We Have A Huge Problem!
Переглядів 1,1 тис.5 місяців тому
Hand-tool Competency, We Have A Huge Problem!
Making An Edwardian 4 panel Door | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 4,5 тис.6 місяців тому
Making An Edwardian 4 panel Door | Woodworking Projects
A Machine That's As Rare As Hens Teeth
Переглядів 4,8 тис.6 місяців тому
A Machine That's As Rare As Hens Teeth
Building A Semi Circular Window PT 3 | Woodworking Projects
Переглядів 2,7 тис.6 місяців тому
Building A Semi Circular Window PT 3 | Woodworking Projects
The Best Way To Use Your Router | Tips Ep 6
Переглядів 2596 місяців тому
The Best Way To Use Your Router | Tips Ep 6
Spindle Moulder Feed Unit - A Better Way To Mount It
Переглядів 1,1 тис.6 місяців тому
Spindle Moulder Feed Unit - A Better Way To Mount It
The Best Method For Gluing Butt Joints | Tips Ep5
Переглядів 2736 місяців тому
The Best Method For Gluing Butt Joints | Tips Ep5
DT Joinery Channel Trailer | Woodworking
Переглядів 6197 місяців тому
DT Joinery Channel Trailer | Woodworking
Radial Arm Saw Safety Tip | Tips Ep3
Переглядів 2 тис.7 місяців тому
Radial Arm Saw Safety Tip | Tips Ep3
Good to see the big boss make an appearance,
@@davidnewton6241 Haha, she is here nore often now.
🇬🇧🇩🇰😀👍
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🇬🇧🇩🇰😀👍
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Nice looking door - good job. I've started cutting almost half way with the TS, then flipping it over and almost cutting half way again. I then finish the small middle section on the band saw. I don't like surprises and even with a riving knife, there's no guarantee it won't bind up. Cheers
@justcruisin109 Cheers. For the most part, its trouble free. The problem is kiln dried timber, having a lot of stress and tension, coupled with timber coming from younger and younger trees. It certainly isn't a bad option to finish it off on the bandsaw. We occasionally do that with bigger boards.
Hey DT i am a wood worker too from jamaica i subsribe and look forward for your videos all the time
@DamionBrown-zp7jv Hi Damion, great to have you with us. Thanks for commenting.
@@DTJoinery yes sir your welcome
Keep up the good work
@@DamionBrown-zp7jv Thankyou
Thats an old one. Most SCM stuff I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole to press the start button. But I have used the later t 110 and 120. They are okay. The fence assemblies arent the best but they work. You can set them up as a single end tenoner if you get an aftermarket clamping cradle. Takes up less room but not as fast as a dedicated machine of course.
This one is a good machine, it's quiet and nice to use. I dont have the original fence for it, sadly. All cast iron, similar in a lot of ways to my BEM.
The old delta unisaw was a decent machine. There's hardly a woodshop in America that doesn't have one. But most of their stuff is kinda second rate. I hated Rockwell Delta bandsaws and thicknessers. The shapers aren't much chop either. They did make good drill presses though.
This is the only one I have had any experience with. I only wanted the fence, though.
Gor blimey four tenoners, no one's got four tenoners but you are right when you got machines setup it becomes a production line much quicker, we had seven spindle moulders setup only for doing kitchen doors.
Yes, I am the only shop I know that has more than 1. It definitely pays off, though, if you have the room. The advantage of being able to walk up to a machine and press the button and go, compared to constantly having to set up, is huge. Yep, we have 6 working spindles too😁
@@DTJoineryI thought I was nuts with my 8 spindles! 4 tenoners! That’s a lot of floor space. Like with the spindles it saves so much set up time though
@amhjoinery2060 Yeah, spindles are a must. I also run 3 morticers and 4 radial arm saws, 2 jointers, and 3 table saws, each one set up for a different purpose. Also, because I like machinery😁
wonderful information, I own 5 RAS...all Dewalt.....16 inch, [3 ] 10 inch and a 9 inch.......thanks
@@ypaulbrown Thank you.
Worked in several wood shops and never saw any safety guards
@@cporter1775 Crazy!!
Thanks for your videos. I love old English woodworking machinery. I'm retired and my Wadkins live in my garage/workshop and are hobby machines. I have a 1925 Wadkin LP recessing and boring machine (like an LQ); a 1926 Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1936 Wadkin CK radial arm saw*; a 1945 Wadkin PK dimension saw*; another (untagged so I can't date it, but ~1946) Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1951 Wadkin RT 6" wood lathe; and a 1928 Preston Woodworking Machinery (Canada) 30" bandsaw*. Some are undergoing overhaul, * some are runners.
@johnvannisselroy6197 You have a good collection there. Wadkin are my favorite machine's, they are made so well. I did have an RD 16" jointer. An ECA tenoner An EKA tenoner I sold them some years ago, I wish I kept the ECA.
Thanks for the tour. Looking at your EP spindle moulder, you suggest it was built around 1960. More likely between 1946 and 1951. What's more, it appears it was built by Sentinel (the steam lorry building company) for Wadkin. If you look on the left hand side of the base there are three tags. I'm sure the bottom tag says "Manufactured for and to the design of Wadkin Ltd by Sentinel (Shrewsbury) Ltd". Apparently after WW2 Wadkin had too many orders and so sub-contracted out the manufacture of some machines. Sentinel seem to have got all the EPA sub-contracts. Cheers, Vann.
Thanks for the info, I will have a look at that today and see what it says.
@@DTJoinery It's a pity you didn't include pictures of the tags of your other Wadkins, then I could have used the test numbers to give the year of manufacture of each of them (not the BFT & BRA as they were built in one of the former Bursgreen factories - and used a different test number system).
@johnvannisselroy6197 Yeah, I didn't think of that.😊 I know the date of some, my Dad was an apprentice for the company who bought the RE brand new. Our friend bought the EQ brand new. My 6 header, I learned last week, is a 1993 model. Most of the others, I have a vague idea, that's about it.
Thy
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All the time, it’s a nightmare. Even in accoya it can happen 🤷 I usually get a ‘feel’ for how it’s moving and over cut based off that , ie. skim face and edge and leave a bit of time .. then repeat… and if it seems to have settled down I’ll thickness. Even then sometimes I’ll pop it on a pile on jointer over night‘weighted’ Worst I ever had was a couple of cube of ‘thermally modified hemlock’. At least 60 percent was shot to shit inside / totally unusable from about 3 mm in the whole way, it was shocking. Some you could pick the cell collapse just looking at it in the rough!! But some caught you out. The most annoying thing was the ‘good stuff’ was fantastic !
@Dazza19746 So irritating, so much good timber ruined. They need to come up with a better drying method, or at least slow it down.
Wow! Nice work Gary. It would be interesting to see it in place. Strange having frosted glass for a kitchen 🤨 Maybe the view was not to their liking 😁
Thank you. Yeah, I'm not sure why they wanted obscure glass. Hopefully, I will get a picture of it installed.
Nice work integrating the old and new. Cheers
Thank you.
That sure is a unique looking window. Nice job!
@brycecomerwoodworks It's definitely different than the norm.
Great work as always. Clever solutions to custom requests. Would be interesting to see it in installed. Thanks for sharing
@@Yerbalessence Thankyou. If I get a photo of it installed, I will share it in a community post.
Something different, great work would be great to see it in place and paint up
@frankmorris2870 Thanks. I'll see if I can get a photo of it when it's finished and put it in a community post.
Aussie artisan...😁👍
Cheers.
First
@@xandefurniture2453 🫡
Or just tighten the feed unit
@jamesmacdonald5881 Well, yes, but it is easy to forget, especially when you get interrupted in the process.
These are gorgeous! Wait... what is that balancer hardware?! That looks so simple to put in. I need to repair some 1920s windows that were DIY flubbed (Originally weights inside the frames, then someone put in these crappy plastic runners later) and have been looking for a balancer replacement and this might just work!
@SuperDuckyWho Thank you. They are spiral balances by Whitco. They work ok, but weights and chords are far superior. These are a cheaper alternative to chords and weights.
Relative Humidity on the east coast of Australia is generally much higher than 12-15%! See eg. the BOM: www.bom.gov.au/climate/maps/averages/relative-humidity/?maptype=09&period=jul What I think you've confused is that the stated moisture % for wood uses a completely different scale to relative humidity. For wood, it is the weight of the water in it against the weight of the dry wood in it. For relative humidity, it is the fraction of the moisture in the atmosphere against the total capacity of the atmosphere to absorb moisture (at a particular temperature). See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_content#Wood_moisture_measurement and en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidity#Relative_humidity For convenience, Fine Woodworking has produced a table setting out a sort of equivalency chart, which shows what the moisture content of wood will end up at once it's acclimatised to a particular relative humidity (and temperature): www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/equilibrium-moisture-content-chart.pdf Kiln dried timber is often aimed at being used in a climate controlled home, which has a relative humidity usually 30-50%: see the equivalency table at 70 fahrenheit (21 celsius). Timber in a climate controlled home will generally live in the range of 6.2-9.2%. You can't get it down that far through air drying, unless you're doing so in a climate controlled home (not entirely unlike a kiln!). With a higher moisture content than 6-9%, you COULD oversize the thickness of all faces and edges (ends do not shrink or expand) if you're aiming for particular dimensions: the wood will shrink once it acclimatises to the customer's home. See the excellent wood handbook www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf at page 13-15 (page 306 of the pdf) to determine how much it will shrink. Eg if it's going from 14%, expect an originally 290mm wide board of sugar maple to shrink by up to 290 x (0.00353 x (14-6.2) ) = 7.8mm. That's not insignificant, particularly if it's part of a larger panel. And particularly when compared to how much movement acclimatised wood would experience over the course of the seasons, which can be expected to be less than half that: 290 x (0.00353 x (9.2-6.2) ) = 3.1mm. Different woods are better or worse. If you start with wood that's approximately the same as it will end up, you get the same result. That's one of the two great advantages of kiln dried wood. Having said all that, the other advantage, and probably the greater advantage is that you don't end up introducing termites etc into customers' homes. You can reduce some of the waste from kiln dried timber by roughly cutting/planing it oversized, and leaving it a few days before finally dimensioning and using it. Kiln dried timber IS harder on tools, harder to work with, and more likely to bind when ripping. Pros and cons.
Nice to see i'm not the only one with those extra fancy hold downs for the workbench! 🤣 On a less silly note; actually two things. Is that fir? Also, totally get what you said about the grain not always working like it looks. I find it much easier to feel the grain direction before it's dressed. Looking at it when it is can be deceiving.
@brycecomerwoodworks Haha. Its WRC. Yeah, I find myself having to do that more and more these days, especially with timber where the grain is all over the place.
@@DTJoinery Aha of course, that explains the colour variation. Such beautiful material, I just wish it was a bit harder. First door i ever made was from WRC. Back then, it was a thousand bucks per cubic meter. I'd hate to think of how much it costs in Australia now!
@brycecomerwoodworks Yeah, its insane. $7500m3 This ling piece was incense cedar, so it smelt lovely and sweet. I miss working with how light and easy on the body/machinery it is, but I dont miss the allergies😁
@@DTJoinery $7500m3😵! I guess $17.70 a super foot isn't crazy if you're buying it by the stick, but i'm guessing you're buying it by the lift? I hear you about the allergies. I seem to have developed an allergy to black walnut. I end up looking like Mr. Puffy and feel like crap. It is manageble though, i just have to minimize the dust as much as possible & i seem to be ok. Took me a couple of times before i figured out what was going on.
Nice work replicating the handrail. I was watching you exerting yourself pushing the timber across the spindle moulder while noticing the unused power feeder in the background, I assume it's not working unfortunately :-) Cheers
@justcruisin109 Thanks. The piece of timber was wider than the feed unit could lift up to. This unit is run only horizontally, and for the sake of a 1 long piece, I didn't want to alter the setup, as I'd have it done by the time I got it setup. The piece was a little bowed, so the effort was in trying to hold it down, not in pushing it through.😊
@@DTJoinery I agree with the setup issues. I have taller post so I can raise the unit up higher but it is a pain to setup each time. It feels like I’m practising origami each time- twist this, turn that and so on. Cheers
Does that spindle keep its edge after removing that much material in one pass?
@thomo74 Pretty much, obviously timber species plays a big part in how long citters remain sharp.
What do you mean by dressing the wood at 4:15? I haven't got a lot of experience with resawing 😄
@madmango6705 We buy our timber in rough sawn and size and mill it to the sectional sizes we need. During the process of doing this, we can and do experience the material bowing, twisting, etc, after we have straightened it. Hope that answers your question.
Thank you!
@@madmango6705 No problem.
East Coast of US here. Our kiln dried hardwoods are usually around 12% moisture content and rarely are there any major issues if the wood is allowed time to acclimate in the shop or on the job site (if used as trim/flooring for example). Not all kilns are the same but timber can be ruined in any type of kiln. 🤷♂️ I do prefer air dried timber and most people will agree air dried timber behaves better when steam bending. We have very humid summers here and very dry winters indoors with heating so a lot of seasonal movement to account for with panel doors etc. I wouldn’t be surprised if timber meant for export is processed differently
@eggsoups That is interesting, as all the US species that come here are around 5-6%. I wonder who it's dried for at that level? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. There is a lot of science behind drying I never knew.
Not a problem. Thanks for watching😊
Just another thought. With kiln drying, you pretty much guarantee that any bugs and borers will be killed off. This is likely a huge part of why you can't buy exotics that are air dried.
Had never really thought about that, good point.
Hi Gary, Interesting you are having the same issues as i am. I'm inland Western Canada. Our humidity levels are all over the place depending on the season. I typically get my KD timber at about 7-8%. I do have the same issues with Doug fir splintering, and hate working with it for that reason. Oak is another one i have issues with checking throughout the boards. I have had material come in where most of it has this issue. I'm not sure if this is simply a trait of oak from North America, but i just don't remember seeing this until fairly recently. I am very out of touch with drying procedures, but it would seem to me they're doing things differently to what used to be done. I don't remember having this many issues even just 20 or 30 years ago. Are they even seasoning it anymore before starting the drying process? Like i said, something has changed. Oh and don't even get me started on how much things move when resawing, i'd be lucky to get one board out of 10 actually remain straight if i have to resaw a bunch of boards! Thanks for the video.
Totally agree. It sounds like it is pretty universal. It does seem to be a lot worse than it used to be. Perhaps, as another person mentioned, it's the age of the trees being cut. It's hard to say for certain, but kiln drying certainly is a big part of it.
@@DTJoinery Hmm, the age of the trees may well play a part in it. The old growth trees, tend to have tighter growth rings, & maybe the way it dries so fast in a kiln results in stresses between the summer and winter growth? Cancel Reply
@brycecomerwoodworks There is definitely a huge difference between old growth and modern timber. I have a lot of very old timber here that was cut in the 60's-70's and it is vastly superior timber. It may well just be a combination of all these things combined. Funny enough, the laminated timbers are much more stable.
@@DTJoinery Yeah, i don't build exterior doors any more without at least laminating boards together. I don't usually go to a full stave core, as i find 2 or 3 laminations works very well and stays dead straight. We are still cutting old growth Douglas fir here in BC, but a lot of it still moves a lot when resawing, so it just has to be the way it's dried.
I’m in Florida which has a fairly similar climate to what you’re describing and I do experience some of the issues you’re having but it seems like it’s less frequent. The KD process in the states actually produces lumber to 10-12%, however, the European standards are closer to 5-8%. When you you get your American white oak, is there any chance it’s going through Europe or is it straight from the states?
@joshuahayes1272 I'm not really sure about that. It's certainly possible given the distance.
I wonder how much is due to the timber coming out of plantations or regrowth. Looking at the growth rings on a lot of stuff, it’s not going to respond well to kiln drying.
Yes, certainly would have some degree of effect. some very young trees being cut.
I prefer air dried timber as well although I’ve had that pretzel on me as well but generally it’s a better product. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers
Yeah, it's not perfect, but I believe it to be superior. It is also better on the lungs, the kiln dried timber, the dust is so fine.
Kiln dried is shocking Gary, Ive experienced problems a few times now when machining timber thats been kiln dried. Ive had a similar situation when i was once ripping some 'kiln dried' sycamore, soon as it hit the riving knife it went all over the place, 3 lengths of timber shot to shit and unusable. Where i work now ive had the same problem with the steamed beech we use, wants to go back in on itself and hardly ever straightens out. I jump for joy when i get straight lengths! 😅
It's frustrating, so much timber goes to waste as its just too crooked to use.
I can’t pick the timber? Looks too dense and pale to be cedar? Then again it looks light, like WRC?
@thomo74 It's Fijian Mahogany, a nice timber to work with, especially with hand tools.
@@DTJoinery Ah yes. You did those big window sills a couple of months back. Is it like your go to timber for doors and windows? Where do you source most of your timber from?
@thomo74 Yes, it's what we are using predominantly now. Since Covid, other timbers have become either too hard to get or too expensive. We used to use a lot of New Guinea Rosewood, but in 2022 it became extremely hard to get, so we had to look for alternatives. I buy from timber merchants all over Australia.
@@DTJoinery thanks for taking the time to explain that. I was interested in your comments regarding air dried v kiln dried. Were you referring to all Timbers general ? Or the FM you were using for the gunstock doors. Might make a good video ? Maybe you’ve done one already?
@thomo74 As a general thought with most timbers, it certainly doesn't apply to all, but it is the case with a lot of timbers. Air dried timber was far superior as it was in balance with the atmosphere, whereas all the imported timbers are generally dried to US humidity levels 5-6%. Where I live, it's 12-15%, so we have a big problem with expansion and instability. I haven't done a video about it, but I was considering doing 1.
Awesome craftsmanship-thanks for the education
Thank you.
Beautiful work
Thank you.
Nice work mate. I liked how the video came together👍
@@jamesnewman1613 Cheers. Thank you.
Hate being the first to comment but you guys make it look effortless - the pommie and American joiners would have done a 3 part series on gunstock doors - very nice work the three of you.
@rupert5390 Thanks Rupert. I did contemplate doing it as 2 parts, having a couple of hours of footage😊
Just found you- how lovely it is to see work of this calibre being produced.Inspiring! Keep it up,guys.
@@user-os7jz1oc5y Thank you.
Nice job. Thanks for uploading. Two questions…what type of glue do you use? And what “type” of putty? Many thanks!
Thank you. Just a high strength water resistant PVA glue and linseed oil based putty.
Thanks for sharing! I’d love to have a shop like you have there, so many great machines!
No worries. It is good, but too small for us. We need it to be half as big again to fit everything comfortably, just too expensive to have that.
I've been using a table saw for the past 25 years. I've done some pretty stupid things with them and thankfully never had a problem. Just recently I had a very close call. I was free handing ripping some 2x4s. All of a sudden, as I was slowly pushing the lumber through I felt this intense vibration on the middle finger on my left hand. There was no mistaking what it was. Thankfully it just took a small patch of skin about 1mm deep off the tip of my finger. Not sure how I managed to get my finger into that position in the first place but it was a very eye opening experience.
That is often what people dont realise, it doesn't matter if you have done it a thousand times, it only takes 1 time to go wrong and it happens so fast. Often over before we know what happened. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Great video dude! I’m just getting into woodworking and looking at table saws for down the line and the big thing these videos about guards are missing is pretty simple. When exactly does the guard have to/need to come off the blade?
Thanks. Sometimes, when you need to deep cut a piece of timber, it is necessary to remove the guard because you simply can't fit the timber underneath it. We do a lot of deep cutting, however, we never take it off, we simply just move it out of the way for that process. There is however, no justifiable reason to remove the riving knife.
Another great video. Nice to have more good information on UA-cam. Too many videos out there showing bad work practices! When i first moved to Canada i worked for a construction crew. I was amazed at all the (jobsite) table saws i would see without guarding. One day when one of the saws needed replacing, the project manager bought a new saw and brought it to site. I was busy hanging doors, but saw him unpack it and set it up. Later that day i went to use the saw, & the guard and riving knife was gone! I couln't believe it, and told the project manager when i saw him a couple of days later how they had been removed. To my disbelief, he told me he had removed them when he set the saw up & thrown them out with the packaging as they were useless and not needed!!! That was the last straw for me with that crew and that's when i left.
It just boggles my mind to not only see them without guards & riving knives, but to see people encouraging their removal. I know of too many people who have had bad accidents on saws and these are too important. Some machines have gone overboard with guarding, but not table saws. Thanks for sharing.
Yep spot on, the fence should always be open about one good mil, even cutting melamine board it can grab not so much MDF but particle more. I think it's got to do with moisture in the material that's getting cut.
I haven't experienced it particularly with board, though I don't cut a lot of it. Thanks for the insight.
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@@DTJoinery Yeah man we cut a lot of board, sometimes when ripping 8x4 sheets in the middle you end up with 2 bananas......😜board quality years ago was better.
@bccev770 Yeah, I get you there. White melamine these days is terrible, it used to be straight and arrissed, now days its crooked and sharp, cuts the hands when handling.
A lot of cool machines in that shop
Yes, I am a lover of old machinery, so I have always bought and sold a lot.
Mate your dad was same as mine a master tradie who was so skilled could do all other trades to perfection , in all I taught TAFE trade carpentry joinery when chippies could make anything , before cut trades to modules and that you level of skill , watching each year new uni twirs in academics use power point to show new ways of trade teaching and never used tools or calculations ,yep , ridiculous , example , we show chisel and handplanes use only ,? but don't teach more than 2 hrs to sharpen ? Imagine 14 young men you want to inspire to get skills and my hand were tired , then what the uni academics orchestrated a cou, get rid of people like me and you and our dad's and put 25 to 30s as teachers ,? It took 5 yrs in decline kids went from able to disabled by staff not being able to use roof squares or hand cut or cut and router onsite as a carpenter goes to stair shop and buys one ? True the education of trades should be by guys and ladies who perform and perfected there craft , compared to now I want to be carpenter ,! I take pictures of some ones work and pay $5 K and get a licence , no wonder no joiners because they took joinery side out of trade and made them kit builders we see today , if you said to a chippies today make a timber window , if he couldn't buy it there stuffed , it's a shame , all the kids I taught 80 % when see me say thanks because I spend time making sure in my classes those in it went out proficient in trade skills , such a shame seeing good skills reduced , love your chanel too
Spot on, totally agree with you. Shops like ours are very rare now, and it is not looking good for the future. Carpenters are not patch on the tradesmen of yester year, when they were highly skilled. Thanks for your comments.
cling film works well instead of newspaper, doesn’t stick to the glue/wood at all.
Interesting, I've never tried that before.