Please help. I am dissabled with cognative disfunction. I am trying to slice some prints in Cura and can not get it to work. It keeps going home. Moving to where it prints. Then it moves 10mm to 20mm up in the air and starts printing. How can I build a Cura profile to work for this printer? Thank you
If you aren't a school teacher, you should be. You explained everything really well and when above and beyond showing us the instructions as you went through them as well as showing off the motherboard and how to make sure the wheels are tightened just right. Awesome video.
@Just Vlad Great job in explaining it. I have one, but the spool holder does not work for me, and keeps falling off. I have it on my channel under the playlist of "3D Printer Videos", and it is under "My Tronxy XY 3 3D Printer Assembly" video. I put a link to this video in the description box. I plan on using this printer for some G I Joe, and Cobra background environments, as well as some other plans that I describe in the description box. However, my video is a little longer than this video. I do not take off the bed mat, because I took off the backside of the mat, and it works just as fine, and I am using Magicgoo before each print. I may have to order more Magicgoo.
I recently bought this printer too, i have to say after allot of re-tweaking i got it working ,almost working perfectly. They say it's an easy assembly, but in reality you have to recheck every nut and bolt if it is tight enough. One big tip is tightening the concentric nuts en really pay attention to the Z switch. Also check if the frame aligns in every corner that means you gotta unscrew a few bolts and recheck the alignments with the frame it self. Also my frame came with a part that they mounted upside-down , the bearing holder for the (z-rod) wasn't supporting anything. So also check that. But with all the tweaks and things, is is really a capable printer and it is really huge ! The display is nice, pretty decent and workable. And i reallllllly love the ruggedness of the frame ! just beautifully made.. Also the only noisy thing of the printer is the power supply fan, but with an easy 3Dprinted silencer from thingyverse made it much more acceptable Verdict: Worth the money especially for the prices nowadays - 164 euro. wayyyy cheap ! Cheers !
Just wanted to thank you for your detailed video on this printer. I bought a used one and had never set up v roller style axes before. Great tips in regards to that and the rest of the vid!
I have this 3d printer and I showed my building of it on my channel under the playlist of "3D Printer Videos". I am currently printing out a Dremel Bit Organizer that is taking me up to over 100 hours. I have the auto bed leveling for it, but I have not installed it yet. I need to know what screws I need for it before I install it. I need to find out how to get the magnetic bed, if it is on Amazon.
I wound up returning mine and getting an Ender 3 pro. To many minor glitches and a few major. Like with the assisted bed leveling occasional forgetting to lift the head before moving it. The weak springs and off position (way outside where the leveling screws were) meant the lift failures gouged the build surface. Trying to find the gcode flavor for setting up Cura better lead me to discover the software was a proprietary release candidate (late beta, not production ready). on a proprietary MB so nothing I could do about it. And the ringing and ghosting was unfixable even with going over every screw and belt (they were all off one way or the other) and trying every possible fix I could find. Even at 20mm/s with jerk at 5 it would ring a test cube on x and y, and corners.
Filament detector? I wonder if that's part of why I got mine for 299 (still not worth it). There are a few differences between this model and the xy-3 I got. but that's the biggest one. That and mine had a much shorter connector wire from the psu, it barely reached and sat under the extrusion on the controller side.
I recall hearing that adding a Z-lead stabiliser at top onto an Ender 3 could be a problem when printing because of binding. I wonder if taking off the Z -lead stabiliser on the Tronxy may be of help!
Wonderful video - just got mine from AMZ :) I'm used to using an old Replicator2 with Makerbot's software - wondering how to create the gcode from my STL file ... using Cura or Slic3r, maybe? Unclear on how to add a custom configuration - and not sure if those softwares are taking into account the bed of the printer ... or if the printer does that automatically and also centers the object automatically?
Depending on which ender 3 you have it may be the z motor mount is too close to the frame. The gantry nut that rides on the lead screw is a certain distance from the uprights and most ender 3's mount the motor a few millimeters closer to those uprights causing binding near the bottom, not enough to prevent printing but can in some cases cause minor issues with layering. Also printing with layer heights a multiple of .04 might help (it's the ender's 'magic number', or the size of layer at one step, so you get a tiny rounding error in layer height every so often, it's pretty minor, but might be enough to notice). There are shims and mounts and such on thingiverse you can print to adjust the distance from the stepper to the upright to even those out. Also a bent lead-screw could effect things. Also check that you're frame is square. it shouldn't for example rock or wobble on a flat surface. also check the wheels on the bed(all of them actually), it should move smoothly without wobble. to loose it wobbles, to tight it won't move smooth. The wheels on one side will be fixed and the other will have eccentric nuts you can adjust.
I picked one up it was cpl months old lite used. I haven't run anything but did a setup to make sure to worked and move. With 6 rolls of film but 4 are abs 2 pla. It is missing flash drive and cpl extra. First time 3d printer so any info would be great thanks
I got mine today set it you and it says filament exhausted and won’t print does it even tho I can set it to run the motor and push it out the nozzle no matter what I do it won’t print
I'd wait a bit. The one I got was abysmal in performance and had beta software (the RC in the version number means late beta) that liked to forget to lift the nozzle during bed leveling and thus gouging the bed. Also you cannot update it as it's proprietary on a proprietary board so you cannot put anything else on it either. I saw at least one option on the unit he had's firmware that didn't exist in mine. It's a complete crap shoot right now. You'll also have to replace the bed springs asap as the ones it came with meant bed leveling sometimes didn't even last through the first layer (not to mention it took forever to level). It's also a 12v system, partially helped by bed insulation so at least that heats up without too much waiting, but amperage draw on that big a bed at 12v is scary close to limits of the connectors on the mb, you'd want a power mossfet as well or never leave it unattended. After two week I gave up and returned it (I almost never return things, they have to be a lost cause and more than a few bucks).
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Buy it here: geni.us/OPkvO
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Please help. I am dissabled with cognative disfunction. I am trying to slice some prints in Cura and can not get it to work. It keeps going home. Moving to where it prints. Then it moves 10mm to 20mm up in the air and starts printing. How can I build a Cura profile to work for this printer?
Thank you
What gcode flavor does it use?
hey o you have the tronxy slicer software?? i need it
If you aren't a school teacher, you should be. You explained everything really well and when above and beyond showing us the instructions as you went through them as well as showing off the motherboard and how to make sure the wheels are tightened just right. Awesome video.
@Just Vlad Great job in explaining it. I have one, but the spool holder does not work for me, and keeps falling off. I have it on my channel under the playlist of "3D Printer Videos", and it is under "My Tronxy XY 3 3D Printer Assembly" video. I put a link to this video in the description box. I plan on using this printer for some G I Joe, and Cobra background environments, as well as some other plans that I describe in the description box. However, my video is a little longer than this video. I do not take off the bed mat, because I took off the backside of the mat, and it works just as fine, and I am using Magicgoo before each print. I may have to order more Magicgoo.
I recently bought this printer too, i have to say after allot of re-tweaking i got it working ,almost working perfectly.
They say it's an easy assembly, but in reality you have to recheck every nut and bolt if it is tight enough.
One big tip is tightening the concentric nuts en really pay attention to the Z switch.
Also check if the frame aligns in every corner that means you gotta unscrew a few bolts and recheck the alignments with the frame it self.
Also my frame came with a part that they mounted upside-down , the bearing holder for the (z-rod) wasn't supporting anything.
So also check that.
But with all the tweaks and things, is is really a capable printer and it is really huge !
The display is nice, pretty decent and workable.
And i reallllllly love the ruggedness of the frame ! just beautifully made..
Also the only noisy thing of the printer is the power supply fan, but with an easy 3Dprinted silencer from thingyverse made it much more acceptable
Verdict:
Worth the money especially for the prices nowadays - 164 euro. wayyyy cheap !
Cheers !
Bro why do you have the best lighting and camera quality ever. You need more subs.
5:18 you call that the “best lighting and camera ever”
Thanks for going through this, great overview of the printer.
Man I can't wait to get my first printer soon enough
Just wanted to thank you for your detailed video on this printer. I bought a used one and had never set up v roller style axes before. Great tips in regards to that and the rest of the vid!
I have this 3d printer and I showed my building of it on my channel under the playlist of "3D Printer Videos". I am currently printing out a Dremel Bit Organizer that is taking me up to over 100 hours. I have the auto bed leveling for it, but I have not installed it yet. I need to know what screws I need for it before I install it. I need to find out how to get the magnetic bed, if it is on Amazon.
I wound up returning mine and getting an Ender 3 pro. To many minor glitches and a few major. Like with the assisted bed leveling occasional forgetting to lift the head before moving it. The weak springs and off position (way outside where the leveling screws were) meant the lift failures gouged the build surface. Trying to find the gcode flavor for setting up Cura better lead me to discover the software was a proprietary release candidate (late beta, not production ready). on a proprietary MB so nothing I could do about it. And the ringing and ghosting was unfixable even with going over every screw and belt (they were all off one way or the other) and trying every possible fix I could find. Even at 20mm/s with jerk at 5 it would ring a test cube on x and y, and corners.
Filament detector? I wonder if that's part of why I got mine for 299 (still not worth it). There are a few differences between this model and the xy-3 I got. but that's the biggest one. That and mine had a much shorter connector wire from the psu, it barely reached and sat under the extrusion on the controller side.
I recall hearing that adding a Z-lead stabiliser at top onto an Ender 3 could be a problem when printing because of binding. I wonder if taking off the Z -lead stabiliser on the Tronxy may be of help!
Wonderful video - just got mine from AMZ :) I'm used to using an old Replicator2 with Makerbot's software - wondering how to create the gcode from my STL file ... using Cura or Slic3r, maybe? Unclear on how to add a custom configuration - and not sure if those softwares are taking into account the bed of the printer ... or if the printer does that automatically and also centers the object automatically?
Do you perhaps know what causes those layering, I have them on all my Ender 3's and cant get rid of it
Depending on which ender 3 you have it may be the z motor mount is too close to the frame. The gantry nut that rides on the lead screw is a certain distance from the uprights and most ender 3's mount the motor a few millimeters closer to those uprights causing binding near the bottom, not enough to prevent printing but can in some cases cause minor issues with layering. Also printing with layer heights a multiple of .04 might help (it's the ender's 'magic number', or the size of layer at one step, so you get a tiny rounding error in layer height every so often, it's pretty minor, but might be enough to notice). There are shims and mounts and such on thingiverse you can print to adjust the distance from the stepper to the upright to even those out. Also a bent lead-screw could effect things. Also check that you're frame is square. it shouldn't for example rock or wobble on a flat surface. also check the wheels on the bed(all of them actually), it should move smoothly without wobble. to loose it wobbles, to tight it won't move smooth. The wheels on one side will be fixed and the other will have eccentric nuts you can adjust.
excellent video my friend, keep it up! i'm loving the content (=
hey man got to say after seeing this i bought it works great but ? do you know why the printer wont connect via usb to cura or the tronxy ver of it
really good...
...excellent video
I picked one up it was cpl months old lite used. I haven't run anything but did a setup to make sure to worked and move. With 6 rolls of film but 4 are abs 2 pla. It is missing flash drive and cpl extra. First time 3d printer so any info would be great thanks
Thanks for sharing the video.
How is this printer going so far? Have you had any issues printing?
Thanks for sharing this review😀👍
Is this a good printer for someone with no experience in 3d printing?
I got mine today set it you and it says filament exhausted and won’t print does it even tho I can set it to run the motor and push it out the nozzle no matter what I do it won’t print
Did you get an 'Auto Stabilizing Sensor'? If so can you show its install and firmware upgrade too?
Ramon Rodgers what are you talking about do you mean an auto bed leveling sensor?!?
hello can you tell me the machine size please (with and without the screen)
THanks
Can u unboxing Jguroura a5 3D printer
Where are you getting the money to get these printer's
How would this compare to the new anet a8 plus?
How many "No big deals" till it becomes a big deal?
In my experience, about two weeks of stubbornly trying to get it to print acceptably. I RARELY return things, this one went back to amazon.
Hello. I'm interested in this printer.
Could you please tell me where I can find the wire sensor? Thank you
Hello.
Could you please tell me where you install the wire sensor?
Thank you.
Great Vid !!!!
and once again the power connector from the power supply has the male end attached. :-(
Hello any one have bought the printer I havent received any software on the microsd card
Can you tell me your settings for your sooway sw 200 please?
cura ender 2 basic settings
Thanks, this printer is really working well for me. I love it!!!!
I love my Tronxy X1, so I would absolutely pick this unit up!
I'd wait a bit. The one I got was abysmal in performance and had beta software (the RC in the version number means late beta) that liked to forget to lift the nozzle during bed leveling and thus gouging the bed. Also you cannot update it as it's proprietary on a proprietary board so you cannot put anything else on it either. I saw at least one option on the unit he had's firmware that didn't exist in mine. It's a complete crap shoot right now. You'll also have to replace the bed springs asap as the ones it came with meant bed leveling sometimes didn't even last through the first layer (not to mention it took forever to level). It's also a 12v system, partially helped by bed insulation so at least that heats up without too much waiting, but amperage draw on that big a bed at 12v is scary close to limits of the connectors on the mb, you'd want a power mossfet as well or never leave it unattended. After two week I gave up and returned it (I almost never return things, they have to be a lost cause and more than a few bucks).
@@kaseyboles30 now have 24V for upgrade XY-3 Already
what a horrible wire rats nest you think it is the company's first try at building a printer
There is no such thing as a "flathead screwdriver" there is a slotted screwdriver! and those T screws are posidrive not Philips