Very good video, so many of us do not need to purchase Oem parts when these parts do the job just fine, why in the world wood someone spend thousands to cut firewood?
I did not use Stihl parts if I absolutely have to. I do not tune my saws for maximum performance. I tune them for ease of use and longevity. I have built five Huztl saws and each one had its own initial problems but all are still running and all cut good. I agree, Farmertec saws are excellent saws if built and maintained, properly. Farmertec saws are a learning experience. I think you would like the 460 if you can find one. They are getting rare as hounds teeth. I do not worry about squish or putting a degree wheel on them. I just build them to my exacting standards and run them. If they run, fine. If not, I make them run. Usually, it is carb or coil. I went through several carbs on the 440 before it ran to my expectations and I fine tuned from there.
Huztl currently has kits for 365-372 class Husky's, 360/361/440/660 class Stihls. All fall in the $136 - $186 + shipping($90-$110) price range. They have other individual parts for other saws too at much easier on the wallet prices than OEM.
I personally never use the decomp on my 880, if it catches part way through a pull it damn near breaks your fingers, Good to watch, looking at getting one of these kits.. Thanks
Great video, well done. I have been using hutzl (farmtec) engine parts as an option for my customers for 5 years and have never had a problem or a failure. For major repairs the price difference from OEM can mean fixing a saw or junking a saw. I'm currently putting together my own farmtec 660 and loaning it to a good friend/tree service pro to test as a daily saw for the 2017 season. I wish hutzl would come out with the same line of parts in 088/ms880. For diehard Stihl fans, which I am definitely one, just remember the engineering of the saw is still Stihl, no matter who makes the parts.
When I learned you could get parts and build an AKM, I did that. When I learned you could get parts and build a 1911, I did that. Now I hear you can build a chainsaw from parts. Heck yeah. Only thing keeping me from ordering one right away is I am away from my homestead for a month. So I will have to wait till I get home to order. Or I might order so that it will get there shortly after I get back. Now there is an idea.
You made a comment in one of your videos about fuel lines not hanging around in the bottom of gas tanks in Farmertec kits. I just experienced that same problem in my 460 kit. It was not the fuel line but how it had been oriented in the tank. I had a new fuel line from my 440 build, so I replaced it. The other problem is Farmertec had not chamfered the edges of the hole in the tank. I spent quite a while with my Dremel, cleaning up their mess. Ifinally got the new fuel line to seat, correctly, in the tank. On this model, you must orient the straight side of the fuel line grommet towards the gas cap. Then, it will sit down in the bottom of the tank. I also replaced the pull rope with an Stihl Elasto start pull rope. It is well worth the $20 it costs. That original starter rope was beating me to death. I still have band aids on my left arm where the pull rope handle got me when it popped and took the handle out of my hand.
what he was saying about the pull start all i did was put some grease in there and it worked just fine so you dont need to speed money to get a oem pull start cover
Mine will be here in about 10 days. Don't like some of the blue stuff, but I will build it as reviewed. I will probably use Dirko instead of 1184, because it did not impress me on your 029 re-build.
I do not disagree one bit. I have a 660, 360 and 361 and they are all running. I had a little problem with the 361 but the other two have been rock solid. The 660 is now a year old and it has cut everything I have asked of it. I feel I know its strengths and weaknesses at this point. I have not cranked the 660 in a couple of months but it is ready to go if I need it. I have replaced a few parts in all saws with oem parts but not a lot. Most of the stuff I have replaced has been with Farmertec parts. I have been very pleased with all three saws. My favorite is the 360 because from an engineering standpoint it is a solid saw. The 361 has to many quirks and the 660 is just to damn heavy. For general use.
Subscribed! Great Video! I just ordered one of these 660 kits this morning. Cant wait to build it. I need a big saw, but I dont need a $1200 one. This kit is perfect for me. I got a big bore kit too and will play around with porting :)
I love my saw. I need to get a lighter bar for it but after I got it fixed it is an excellent saw. It cranks easy, stays lit and re-lites. What more can I say? The only drawback is the weight. Balance with a 20 inch bar is great. I learned a lot building it which will translate to my other project saws. I will be 74 next month, so it is an old mans saw. My friend who is a husky dealer and age 77, cranked my 660 with 3,3 pulls - 3 pulls cold start, 3 pulls warm start, which is about what it takes me. You are right the 660 is a beast in wood, kind of like the time I dumped my H2 the first time 40 odd years ago, scary.
You would like the Oregon VersaCut in 20 inch, cheap, light, and seeming to last. I have the Tsumara's but for folks bore cutting they don't last. Bucking they last forever as the "bar" is a really good steel, just the tips are weaker so don't stand up to plunge cutting....
660 pull start - I pulled the rope right out of the handle. I also broke a 120 degree section right out of the pulley . I replaced the fuel cap with an oem cap. I 1184’ed the impulse line to my 660. I had no problems with the chain adjuster or clutch. I did coat the chain adjuster gear with grease before assembly.
I just came across these saws and this video was the first to pop up. Great information. If I could suggest something, and maybe you’ve done this in other videos but you mention other videos that go further into detail about things mentioned here. It would be great if you could add links. Sometimes it’s difficult to find other videos so that’s my suggestion. Anyhow, great video.
@ afleetcommand, walt I just finished my ms660, and wanted to tell you that I watched all of your build videos and my saw runs great with your research on oem parts to use. The only thing I had an issue with my saw was the hole going to the adjustable oiler was to small to fit my smallest screw driver in and I had to drill it out. But your videos are great. Thanks so much
I have looked for the Versacut bar but no one around here has one. I am running the Forester Pro bar with LGX chain 72 chain on it. I sent a lot of my extra 660 parts to Matt. He told me that one of his 394’ s blew up - hung a ring. The new cylinder I put on my 660 looked real nice, nikasil coated a good hatch and all edges were broken. I looked at them for three months before I put them on. The piston was visibly shorter than the original one ( thrust pin to top of piston). I used the metal base gasket from hL supply instead of that fiber gasket that comes with the kit.
Great video as always, love the insight. One more class that could use a saw like this is a farmer or homeowner with a chunk of land that has big oaks, but can't afford an $1100 MS 660.. in no way would I advocate a guy with no experience operating one but a guy who needs to accasionally clear shooting lanes or clear large trees from farm roads or stash this saw at a cabin or hunt lodge.. I'd much rather stash a 400 dollar saw than even a 600 dollar Stihl ms360... for that kind of occasional use who cares if it is overkill or a bit heavy, the capability is increased so significantly. Just my thoughts.
This video is really tempting me to add a Stihl to my growing collection. The crazy part is I cannot run a saw for any length of time due to my back injury. I'm hoping for a quick recovery until then I will continue to live vicariously through your videos LOL!
+fifty150sixteen They make smaller ones! I discovered modded 350's and the like after a life altering injury 3 years ago. Just now getting to the point I can really put a day on one of those beasts .. part of the reason they are creeping into more and more video time. :)
+afleetcommand I must have forgot to thank you for my modded 350. Funny thing is I modded a 350 then set it on the shelf unused. A few months back we had a HUGE wind storm. My 372xpw was down with stripped bolt holes in the handle. So I took with me a 460 Rancher and the little 350. I removed a tree from a house and one from a garage using the 460. At the end of the day when almost all work was done I thought I'd fire up the little 350 just for fun... Man if would have knew that saw could run the way it did I would have used it all along! I almost forgot to mention I Very much dislike that 460 Rancher!
+afleetcommand Yes. It seems like it's in tune one minute and off the next. I spent a lot of time online today reading others opinions of this saw and now feel there may be something wrong with my 460. I guess I will start with a vacuum and pressure test and check the fuel and impulse lines. A new carb may be in order? I will say that little 350 surprised the heck out of me though. It is lightweight and seemed to cut every bit as good as the 460 does even when it runs good. If I would have thought a 350 could run as good as that I would have been using it sooner.
very nice video,i have e-mailed farmer tec they soon will have a 044-ms440 version and a husqvarna 372xp my favorite coming soon and i like my jonsered 2171w also thanks and keep the videos coming with you and bob or spike 60
Hey Walt Any IP or design patens are only valid for 17 years. After that it is free to copy. The trade marks and copy rights are valid for longer. 75 years. These are good copies and as you state very useful parts. The key with all copies aftermarket part are do they hold up? If the main failure mode is "skider modification" these parts will get the job done. The plastics and the tanks are some the most expensive things to replace OEM if AM parts can can get a totaled saw back to work for $100. I think it a will all the way around.
Good info, thx. SO far I've had good results with most of the covers and plastic. Also with the cases. The handle bar is soft....and the plating on the 56mm cylinders was lousy.. BUt to your point, a lot of those parts can radically lower the cost of running those 064-MS660's in a production environment because exactly what you pointed out..:) AND that's where I had started. The concept of a "kit saw" evolved after my wife & I did the "goof" on jig saw puzzle.....the natural question was why not sell a kit? And here we are.
Well,this is awesome stuff and if I may, I would like to add another type to the first group of folks that would be very much interested in these well performing saws! Those that can't afford to drop $1,500 - almost 2k on a saw for whatever reasons it may be (like limited income),but,,,,,,,,,, properly built and by paying attention to detail,one can possibly have a saw that sparks! I very much need at least an 80cc ,but heck... Gonna go for length and power,get more length and power! PS. I'm very much a stihl fan but I'm also an even bigger fan of a saw that's gonna hold up and fire up when I need it to,without spending $$$ I don't have. Good stuff and I'll be using your videos as a guide! Thx
Just have to swap in parts "intelligently" to get them where they hold up..and if the expectation is to do some debug..they do work well. You need to see the "junk pike" 390 video. Made the point that sometimes starting from an OEM that needs to be rebuilt is cheapest..:)
Spark plug hole - l always put my spark plug chaser through the spark plug hole to clean out any burrs in the spark plug threads. I have jut got through basically building the ms 460 kit saw. I like what I see. It is not just a big bore 440. I am having to wait for a new set of Caber rings for it, because one of the rings was broken in the box. I love my 440. My general use saw is my ms 360, that I built last year. It has cut a lot, this year. Did you ever get your 360 running, adaquately? It is an excellent saw. I think my new 460 is going to be an excellent saw. It is not just a 52mm 440. The 460 is a completely different saw, more akin to the 361 and 660 than the 440.
afleetcommand I liked the 361 but the 360 is a more powerful and bigger engine. It is 62 cc v. 59.5 cc for the 361. The 361 seems to have more zip but the 360 has more grunt. I use my 360 all the time. It is my go to saw for a high stump. I sold the 361 because I was tired of fixing it. It had a plethora of minor problems and the 360 has had none and always performed flawlessly when called upon. It was the major player cutting down a bunch of hickories this spring and summer, backed up by my 440 for the heavy lifting jobs. The 360 has a 20 inch Total 2 bar on it and LGX chain. The 440 has a Holzforma 25 inch bar and LPX chain. Either saw can handle most cutting jobs, big or little.
I know this comment is 6 years late but I have a comment on the starting of these larger saws. So...I use to race karts with a modified briggs engine. Instead of a recoil mechanism everyone had small starters with an anvil that reached into a nut on the end of the crank. The starters consisted of a small starting motor, a switch and a small battery. I might have to try something like this as my right shoulder isn't worth much.
cant beet this information i have converted my 066 with the big bore kit to a paramotor reduction is 3.3:1 propeller isfrom a top 80 paramotor it puts out about 40kg of static thrust and i have done some por work on exhaust and intake it flys great all after market hit and mis quality
I have not found the cylinders or cases to me the problem. What sucks are the carb and coils, plus a few parts connected to the control lever. I have built four different models, now so I am pretty experienced building them. I think a lot of Farmertec parts have improved in the past several years.
Gotta love the after market parts and for Stihl and husky replacement parts I have found many many a.m. parts companies, like nwp, meteor, hyway, wolf creek saw shop, wcsss sells a wiesco piston for the husky 371-2, that freakin riiipps!! Working on a Stihl 660 right now and the 371/372 is my next big project very good video, peace and love to all, be kind, and let's change the world folks, #TOPCHOPPEROUT
I've been watching/lurking for a while now. Based on your videos, I got a farmertec ms660 top end for a friend. I'll let you know how that goes... looks good so far. I also got some parts for an ms260 that look good, waiting on a couple more to complete. My 350 is a different saw now, and BTW my wife hates you. :-)
i cut about 10 tonne to a year for heating my home , these saws should be OK for my use straight out of the box assembled .i would love the skills to build one but no experience with small engines.
Hi, I just bought a set of cases for my brothers 064 they look great hes wanting me too get at it , but since I have 12 surgery's on my self right now it will wait till it warms up lol, I wish I live closer to you just to b.s. on some things or mods that I have done, I ran a hot saw on nitro and boost bottle it was unreal but hey keep up the vids man I and others love watching
It's funny how guys will wreck their truck and put on Chinese made A.M parts and think nothing of it, nor do their friends cut them down for it. They have a starter, water pump or alternator go out on that truck and they do the same exact shit at auto parts stores. Take those same guys and put an A.M part on a Stihl or Husqvarna saw and all of the sudden they call you the biggest POS in the world ??? Really? I call that brainwashed brand loyalty.
I have tremendous brand loyalty to Stihl. I have an Sload of Stihl equipment in my shop. I just was not going to spend over a thousand for a Stihl 91.5cc pro saw, especially since they put that Mtronic crap on their high end saws. I know how to adjust the carb on a saw. I do not need some idiot engineer telling me how to do it. I do not mind computers but I like to tailor them to the way I do things and I am not used to taking orders. I am used to giving them..
Yes... yes... yessssss as fuck. Husky, made in sweden from Chinese metals. Stihl, assembled in germany, parts made in China Echo, made in japan from chinese metals and samarai blood MTD made in mexico Walbro made in mexico Zama made in China Mcculloch, assembled in usa, parts made in Sweden, Mexico, and China . Been working on and dealing saws for 25yrs. Guys who say they dont want Chinese saws kill me. Because they all have some origination in China. These farmertec saws are generic brands basically. All farmertec and holzforma parts and saws to leave my shop, have been used the same as name brands, and held up the same. Why do you think trump is after them? China has taken over the world by stealing tech and products and making them the same and as durable as the original for half the price. Yes they are stolen intellectual property because the chinese companies did not buy the rights to the parts like all aftermarket companies have to. Instead they stole them. With the new trade deal trump got china to cave on this weekend will force china to pay for the stolen property. So prices will go up a bit but we will feel better about buying them lol some of us anyway because although i love my country and love honest companies... i also love money lol
Well I ordered a MS 660 kit from Hutzle and received it a couple days ago! While casings etc all look excellent, the cylinder is junk . It clearly has 3 hairline cracks in the cylinder, And they honed thtu the nikosil plating at the cylinder base! This thing would come apart inside two or three tanks of fuel! I am not impressed at all! I have contacted Hutzle we will see what happens! Pretty clear why these things tend to seize!
What is the difference in carbs for a MS660 Walbro WJ69 VS. WJ67A VS. Zuma and will it make a difference what carb I replace the one on the saw with. Are any of them more reliable.
Excellent questions 1) As these come they do not have legal Spark Arrestors. If you watch more of the series I've done I've addressed that. The BEST way is to use the Hyway brand mufflers, they aren't too expensive and do have the proper spark arrestors. On my saws here on the farm it doesn't matter. The saws that go off the farm have either Hyway mufflers or OEM. Some have ones I've modded by tacking screens to the inside. NOT the best as its a pain to clean them. 2) I run 32:1 in all my two strokes. 40:1 is good, 50:1 is as little oil as I would consider. But for most with a good synthetic 40:1 is a good number. Do as I say not as I do?? Maybe. 32;1 with a low quality oil creates a lot of carbon. 3) Stihl RS or at that time Oregon LGX.
One more comment, if the goal is to have a cheap saw to depend on....find a used stihl. These require development and unless you have time skills and toolings don't waste time with one of these kits. Takes a few parts and some engineering to make them a useful saw and fact is a good clean Stihl OEM 066 or MS660 gets you there much faster, less hassle and if time is added to the metric for less money.
I was thinking of making some of these for resale until I saw the shipping cost of $114 for the one kit to CA USA. That pretty much wipes out most of my profit as I was thinking of selling these for around $350 per unit. I don't think folks would buy at $475 for just the saw without a bar, even $395 might be pushing it. Ordering 2 just adds another $100, now that is not reasonable shipping. It's only after you order 3 or more units that you start to save money. spend a $1,000 and shipping is $339.00, so $60+ shipping per unit. I do have one question though. What is the required ratio for fuel? a lot of the Chinese made units from eBay say 25:1. Now I have to decide if I want to pay the shipping for myself. I wonder what folks would be willing to pay for an assembled unit? properly assembled by a machinist. If there is a market I would be willing to invest in it.
As I had mentioned I really don't think the concept of building those for resale is a good idea. Those saw "kits" are the ultimate puzzle for a saw geek and that is their place in my mind. Just a whole pile of reasons why. I run 32:1 in all my two stokes using a good synthetic.
I see dry parts with 50:1, not 40:1. And while I can't quantitatively blame 50:1 for some of the failure I've seen, common sense says that those situations where it was "on the edge" more oil might have mitigated the damage. I've run 32:1 for years and have never had an oil related failure of any kind. I've repair lots of other folks saws that have, so between the two experiences, I stick with 32:1. Failure analysis can be an interpretation of the evidence.....so I go to experience.
So, I'm guessing that Amsoil Saber 100:1 stuff has you running the other way! And the math is so much easier for those that can tolerate the imperial system....1 oz per quart or 4 oz per gallon.
I did a 56mm build on my 064. I went with the Highway kit and it doesn't have free port, but you have to check the bottom clearance. Also, I put in a stihl decomp and it pops back out also. Is your flywheel metal or polymer?
Who wants a huztl ms 660 - well, this old fart for one. I have screwed around with saws for 40 odd years but I never have operated a 92cc saw. I love stihl saws - have half dozen almost new ones.
thank you for making such grate videos. your videos on the husqvarna 61-272 hybrid inspired me to turn my 61 into a 272. now with this moats recent video on the longish term quality of these parts i think you've inspired my to build a big boar 660. having never taken on a project of this magnitude i was wondering if you had a parts list handy so i will know what parts to get from hudzle.
+Aaron T No list. I just go and buy the basic stuff which is pretty obvious and then fill in the blanks from a variety of places. Often detail parts come from my local Stihl dealer. My suggestion would be either start from a dead Stihl 066 or start with a pre assembled short block from Huztl then work from there.
you said in the tear-down inspections of your builds , you find no to very little wear internally; how much of this could you attribute to your running heavier oil mixes than suggested mix ratios ?
+Damon Hart Good question. I really don't know how much that has an effect. It's got to is what my instinct. I also think taking care upfront to find issues before assembly in things like the cylinders & pistons help.
An original stihl don't break. after 1000 hours wood cutting maybe need new rings from piston. Other things like rubbers. But you never need a crankcase. In a orignal Puller there is no plastic inside. I pull my ORIGINAL stihl 066, 461, 076 on without the decompressionvalve.
My G660 died after 6 months , with engine racing and then dying in a few seconds. I'm not experienced with combustion engines, but googling around indicates it is an air leak. What I'd need to know is what kind of tools and experience I would need to build one of these kits.
Need a set of case assembly tools/pullers for certain to do the kits. A T27 torx tee handle. I tweaked a brake tool to put on chain brake springs. An 8mm nut driver. Spark plug wrench. Torque wrench for the flywheel nut. ( 32ft-lbs min ). Patience and the willingness to research what others have done. No manual. Basically either a learning experience on mechanical basics of a saw, or a defining one where you will prefer to hire folks to do mechanical work :)
@@afleetcommand Thanks. I found some web pages that similarly list the tools you mention as part of a repair tech's tool kit, so I have a sense that the tool kit is not so mysterious or hard to put together. I found the parts diagram and shop manual for the MS650 & 660. Should that be sufficient?
sure, I did it with nothing. Just common sense, and I'm not the sharpest tool in the shedd.....this stuff isn't rocket science. My hunch is with a manual to clarify parts location's & order and to get "torque" numbers, you should be fine. IF u run into stumble places, I would be curious and might put up "tactical" video's for folks to get over the "hump" and move along.
@@afleetcommand You've encouraged me to take the plunge. I think what I'm going to do is order another built G660, and then a parts kit for a smaller saw, around 60cc which I will try to build. Why: the big saw I need now, but I can borrow smaller saws while I am building my own. Could I impose on you for recommendations for models around 60cc? I'm a member in a volunteer woods management group, some felling, more bucking, and building benches etc. The big saw I've been using for milling and bigger trees. The smaller would be for everything else. BTW, it appears that you can't get original Stihl parts unless you are an authorized dealer.
Hi mate How do you find the vibration of the saw? I've built a 023 and a 044 and both of the vibrate more than I would like. How do you find the vibration on your ms660 now? Do I need to run the saw in for it to faid away?
+lawnmowerman1271 They do vibrate! Interestingly enough as time has gone on they vibrate less....or I've become numb. Take your pick. A Husqvarna 390 vibrates a lot less....These MS660's are on the same level as my old Jonsered 920's and 2094's. And the 54mm versions vibrate less than the 56mm one.
Who are these saws for? I think I may be one of those people, and I have ordered a saw kit. I recognize that these kits are not the same as buying an OEM saw but I have a mild interest in using a big saw with an Alaskan mill now and then. For day to day firewood use, my Husky 555-AT is great but it is not a big saw. For my limited use of a big saw I cannot justify ever spending over $1200, so I think this kit is an option for me. I have some mechanical skills and the build videos I have watched tell me that a build is within my skill set. I am not a Stihl guy as such but I love my little 026. If a kit came available for a Husky 395XP I would have seriously considered it instead but I have not seen one.
The 54's that come with them usually need just a little touch up, but I had issues with the plating on the 56mm's so just spend the extra and get those Cross Performance top ends, work well and seem to be consistent
Well, I started to assemble my own FT660 and did just fine until I went to measure squish on the stock 54mm cylinder without a base gasket. When I did that I discovered that the Farmertec piston and their crank interfered with each other. At BDC the piston was contacting the counterbalance weights of the crank but not enough to prevent rotation. I had to do some extreme thinning of the piston skirts to get rid of the interference. It took me about 5 minutes with hand files to get rid of the interference and two tries to verify that I was done filing. I am going to say that when I got a real measurement after the skirt mods the squish band was about 25 thousandths so I expect to go with a base gasket delete on this build.
New...Or a used OEM to restore. I wouldn't buy any of the Clones complete, rather get the parts and build it so I know whats in there..:) Also would let me sub in the better parts where needed....and don't have to trust the "buyer beware" types who hawk there stuff here and on the forums.
afleetcommand I contacted the seller and he told me the saw is completely stock, but has a new original cylinder and piston fitted at the dealer recently. The saw is from 2009, and he asks 600 euro (around 750usd i think) for it
Go with the 660..:) 395 is a horse, but heavy, certainly heavier than a 660. Unless you have a desire for a saw designed to pull 28in and larger bars, stay with the 660. Its lighter and a gazillion parts are out there as it has been a primary pro saw choice for decades starting with the 066.. Where the 395 has a more narrow focus, the 660 is a more all around saw with lots of power and very reliable.
I don't, I kind of keep a distance so don't hear all the latest and greatest. They DO have a very active facebook page...you can probably go there and hear the latest plans from Farmertec.
My shipping is going to be just under $100 for a 660 kit to the central USA. A 440 kit, 660 kit, extra P&C and misc small parts is $147 shipping. 2ea 440 kits and 2ea 660 kits + misc parts is $274 shipping so, is doesn't get much less than $70 per kit. Forget the shipping and look at the total cost of about $300-$400(depending on OEM add ons) to build a 660 vs >$1000 retail.
+hankpointblank No one best place as I actually had to use three. Huztl eBay store, my local Stihl dealer, and the "dssjms" ebay store. A combination of these three sources for the AM parts allowed me to get the mix of parts I needed.. Also I have to say starting with a "blown up" Stihl 066 might be best for many. All the little detail parts like the screws and other hardware would be in that saw. I had to use the dealer for some of that stuff. I'm going to do a video starting that way as I think most will start from there (The blown up saw as a starting point). And the other approach is a "pre assembled" short block as there seems to be piles of those on eBay. In those cases I would stick to Huztl or dssjms. Dssjms is here in the states and the wait time is much less as a result. He's also familiar with the builds.
I built these before they sold kits. A collection of parts mostly from Huztl but OEM and others mixed in as well. AND as I'm discovering with others who are forging the path through Huztl kits, there are some minor differences between what I have and what's being shipped. Nothing really major, but details here and there. I have different topends, Huztl doesn't sell those 1122's anymore. And the cases have little differences for example I could use OEM chain adjusters where the ones coming through now have better adjusters but there are larger slots so the current fix is shims vs. OEM. I had different carbs. I could re jet a few some not. I believe all the ones coming through now have fixed jets...so my Walbro upgrade actually makes more sense now than then. A guess the pull starts are better now too. So a few things here and there, some better some just different; but I guess it isn't a paint by numbers build...:) Those Huztl kits are cheap and fairly complete...a great way to start if a saw puzzle is of interest.
Just a box of power head parts. No B&C. And also from time to time you have to sub in "OEM" parts to make it work. Can't expect perfection especially at the price point.
For a person looking for a cheap alternative....unless the expectation is right this really isn't the right direction. Need skills and patience. And the ability to work through and around sub par parts from time to time...each one an individual. If the expectation is about building a mechanical puzzle....and willing to deal with the "crap shoot" relative to parts quality...some quite good, some not as I said before. These can be a learning experience, product a useful saw, and be fun....but if you are looking for a low cost saw that does what the "OEM" Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita products will at that level of maturity & reliability you will be disappointed even mad...:)
@@afleetcommand i was referring to the folks who say the Chinese stole the design. If "still" and " husky" had not outsourced to china then i doubt they would be competing with them today. Kinda feel the same way about the national debt. If America did not share tech with other nations they would all be 200 years behind us lighting homes with candles. So how is it we owe them anything.? I have no problems with Chinese manufacturing. There is really no reason it cant be as good as anyones. I think thier lack of natural resources leads to lower quality metal. I no for a fact Chinese steel is not equal to Bethlehem Pa.steel. i have worked with both. Aluminum? Idk. I am waiting on my blue 66 right now. Thank you for putting this info out in public, Its many hours of research on your part I truely appreciate. I have learned alot. One thing i saw anouther fella do was replacing the de com.valve with a valve from a concrete saw . I thought that would be a smart thing to do with any saw that was compatible.. i am also thinking of a 070. When i can afford it ,but i am getting a climbing saw before the 070. I love my pro mac but its value and repair cost keep it hanging out more than working. These saws and kits will mostly be helping farmers and hard working men with families to feed. That cant be bad.. big outfits will be buying brand names. As usual. This gives a poor man like me a opportunity my fathers generation never had. Thank you very much.
Wow, You are right and may not know how spot on you are in so many ways. If you look at new "OEM" Husqvarna ignitions.....made in China. New OEM 550 Cylnders....made in China, Carburetors..same. I get it.
I have no problem buying a saw built with slave labor, if it's cheap. I mean if they are producing it for next to nothing, I should get it for next to nothing.
Yeah, I hear that. They changed suppliers right around when I was doing those builds. There was the ones with a "square" base to the cylinder and while they free ported a bit they ran strong and lasted. THEN the subsequent ones didn't work as well. I horded the original versions. Mine still runs strong. Of course it doesn't get a lot of use anymore
Husky, made in sweden from Chinese metals. Stihl, assembled in germany, parts made in China Echo, made in japan from chinese metals and samarai blood MTD made in mexico Walbro made in mexico Zama made in China Mcculloch, assembled in usa, parts made in Sweden, Mexico, and China . Been working on and dealing saws for 25yrs. Guys who say they dont want Chinese saws kill me. Because they all have some origination in China. These farmertec saws are generic brands basically. All farmertec and holzforma parts and saws to leave my shop, have been used the same as name brands, and held up the same. Why do you think trump is after them? China has taken over the world by stealing tech and products and making them the same and as durable as the original for half the price. Yes they are stolen intellectual property because the chinese companies did not buy the rights to the parts like all aftermarket companies have to. Instead they stole them. With the new trade deal trump got china to cave on this weekend will force china to pay for the stolen property. So prices will go up a bit but we will feel better about buying them lol some of us anyway because although i love my country and love honest companies... i also love money lol But avoid the plastic cases.
Of course that video was 3 years ago, I've had a lot more time on those saws since...basic premise the same but learned a bit more about what works and what doesn't....last year and last winter did a few video on the subject after these builds lived the life of a logger saw..:) Husqvarna..carbs & 550 cylinder's etc...China. Makita? :) I have no issue with the Chinese people and companies. None. Just taking advantage of opportunity. Not going to "go" into the subject, but I spent years in the "bleeding" edge technology world...and what the "political" brain trust did in the 1980's and 90's; both parties, is why we are fighting to maintain a technology edge now. We shrunk the "gap" from 25 years to essentially zero during that time following a thought process & world view that is prevalent even now, in fact is the "preferred" philosophy taught to our kids. We are in the process of understanding what that means, was it the right approach? Will our grand kids benefit? I guess time will tell... I have no room for politics here. It's about living life and sharing experiences.
To be honest i like em. I own lots of farmertec parts on lots of saws. No problem. But knowing what i know about the economy. I hope china does pay for the property it stole and discontinues stealing from us. I dont like that. Has it stopped me? No lol cuz i like money. But yes we have lost a tech edge. Thats changing now from what i see in the military community. Aircraft that wd considered "conspiracy theory" are actually being built and the patents wer declassified. Also perpetual motion generator patents were declassed. Thats huge. And now we are seeing free wireless electricity being used and tested in texas. And the fact that stihls new ms500i fuel injection was american designed is a big deal too. No clue where its being manufactured yet tho. Im anxious to see and test an ms500i. Fuel injected chainsaw lol what a time to be alive!
Very good video, so many of us do not need to purchase Oem parts when these parts do the job just fine, why in the world wood someone spend thousands to cut firewood?
I did not use Stihl parts if I absolutely have to. I do not tune my saws for maximum performance. I tune them for ease of use and longevity. I have built five Huztl saws and each one had its own initial problems but all are still running and all cut good. I agree, Farmertec saws are excellent saws if built and maintained, properly. Farmertec saws are a learning experience. I think you would like the 460 if you can find one. They are getting rare as hounds teeth. I do not worry about squish or putting a degree wheel on them. I just build them to my exacting standards and run them. If they run, fine. If not, I make them run. Usually, it is carb or coil. I went through several carbs on the 440 before it ran to my expectations and I fine tuned from there.
Huztl currently has kits for 365-372 class Husky's, 360/361/440/660 class Stihls. All fall in the $136 - $186 + shipping($90-$110) price range. They have other individual parts for other saws too at much easier on the wallet prices than OEM.
I got a bad carb with the 440 kit I built. Ordered another and it worked great
I’m a die hard Stihl fan. And this saw does not offend me. I want to build one.
Funny thing is I became a 066/MS660 Stihl (OEM) Fan after learning about those saws with these things.
avoid. they are crap unless you like the "hobby" of building and constantly working on your saw. You are better off with a basket case used saw.
Be careful... its addictive
I personally never use the decomp on my 880, if it catches part way through a pull it damn near breaks your fingers,
Good to watch, looking at getting one of these kits.. Thanks
Great video, well done. I have been using hutzl (farmtec) engine parts as an option for my customers for 5 years and have never had a problem or a failure. For major repairs the price difference from OEM
can mean fixing a saw or junking a saw. I'm currently putting together my own farmtec 660 and loaning it to a good friend/tree service pro to test as a daily saw for the 2017 season. I wish hutzl would come out with the same line of parts in 088/ms880. For diehard Stihl fans, which I am definitely one, just remember the engineering of the saw is still Stihl, no matter who makes the parts.
Well they hace now the 880 in their blue saw and the orange kit. How did your 2017 year test run? How long has the saw lasted?
@@thornyturtleranch4u curious about this too
When I learned you could get parts and build an AKM, I did that. When I learned you could get parts and build a 1911, I did that. Now I hear you can build a chainsaw from parts. Heck yeah. Only thing keeping me from ordering one right away is I am away from my homestead for a month. So I will have to wait till I get home to order. Or I might order so that it will get there shortly after I get back. Now there is an idea.
Mesin yang sangat tangguh 👍👍
You made a comment in one of your videos about fuel lines not hanging around in the bottom of gas tanks in Farmertec kits. I just experienced that same problem in my 460 kit. It was not the fuel line but how it had been oriented in the tank. I had a new fuel line from my 440 build, so I replaced it. The other problem is Farmertec had not chamfered the edges of the hole in the tank. I spent quite a while with my Dremel, cleaning up their mess. Ifinally got the new fuel line to seat, correctly, in the tank. On this model, you must orient the straight side of the fuel line grommet towards the gas cap. Then, it will sit down in the bottom of the tank. I also replaced the pull rope with an Stihl Elasto start pull rope. It is well worth the $20 it costs. That original starter rope was beating me to death. I still have band aids on my left arm where the pull rope handle got me when it popped and took the handle out of my hand.
what he was saying about the pull start all i did was put some grease in there and it worked just fine so you dont need to speed money to get a oem pull start cover
Thanks, I'm learning the tricks.
Mine will be here in about 10 days. Don't like some of the blue stuff, but I will build it as reviewed. I will probably use Dirko instead of 1184, because it did not impress me on your 029 re-build.
I do not disagree one bit. I have a 660, 360 and 361 and they are all running. I had a little problem with the 361 but the other two have been rock solid. The 660 is now a year old and it has cut everything I have asked of it. I feel I know its strengths and weaknesses at this point. I have not cranked the 660 in a couple of months but it is ready to go if I need it. I have replaced a few parts in all saws with oem parts but not a lot. Most of the stuff I have replaced has been with Farmertec parts. I have been very pleased with all three saws. My favorite is the 360 because from an engineering standpoint it is a solid saw. The 361 has to many quirks and the 660 is just to damn heavy. For general use.
Subscribed! Great Video! I just ordered one of these 660 kits this morning. Cant wait to build it.
I need a big saw, but I dont need a $1200 one. This kit is perfect for me. I got a big bore kit too and will play around with porting :)
I love my saw. I need to get a lighter bar for it but after I got it fixed it is an excellent saw. It cranks easy, stays lit and re-lites. What more can I say? The only drawback is the weight. Balance with a 20 inch bar is great. I learned a lot building it which will translate to my other project saws. I will be 74 next month, so it is an old mans saw. My friend who is a husky dealer and age 77, cranked my 660 with 3,3 pulls - 3 pulls cold start, 3 pulls warm start, which is about what it takes me. You are right the 660 is a beast in wood, kind of like the time I dumped my H2 the first time 40 odd years ago, scary.
You would like the Oregon VersaCut in 20 inch, cheap, light, and seeming to last. I have the Tsumara's but for folks bore cutting they don't last. Bucking they last forever as the "bar" is a really good steel, just the tips are weaker so don't stand up to plunge cutting....
660 pull start - I pulled the rope right out of the handle. I also broke a 120 degree section right out of the pulley . I replaced the fuel cap with an oem cap. I 1184’ed the impulse line to my 660. I had no problems with the chain adjuster or clutch. I did coat the chain adjuster gear with grease before assembly.
I just came across these saws and this video was the first to pop up. Great information. If I could suggest something, and maybe you’ve done this in other videos but you mention other videos that go further into detail about things mentioned here. It would be great if you could add links. Sometimes it’s difficult to find other videos so that’s my suggestion. Anyhow, great video.
@ afleetcommand, walt I just finished my ms660, and wanted to tell you that I watched all of your build videos and my saw runs great with your research on oem parts to use. The only thing I had an issue with my saw was the hole going to the adjustable oiler was to small to fit my smallest screw driver in and I had to drill it out. But your videos are great. Thanks so much
Thank you for the feed back and have fun with that monster!
@@afleetcommand Walt I am having a issue with the tank vent leaking, stihl shows 2 for this saw which one would I use to replace it with?
I have looked for the Versacut bar but no one around here has one. I am running the Forester Pro bar with LGX chain 72 chain on it. I sent a lot of my extra 660 parts to Matt. He told me that one of his 394’ s blew up - hung a ring. The new cylinder I put on my 660 looked real nice, nikasil coated a good hatch and all edges were broken. I looked at them for three months before I put them on. The piston was visibly shorter than the original one ( thrust pin to top of piston). I used the metal base gasket from hL supply instead of that fiber gasket that comes with the kit.
www.ebay.com/itm/20-Oregon-200VXLHD025-chainsaw-light-580123-bar-chain-Combo-for-Stihl-MS390-391/112601490108?hash=item1a379262bc:g:Zu4AAOSwU0VZ4Tse:sc:USPSPriority!13045!US!-1
www.ebay.com/itm/Oregon-20-VersaCut-Guide-Bar-3-8-Pitch-050-Gauge-Stihl-Super-Magnum/123618866159?epid=28008929800&hash=item1cc84233ef:g:i1wAAOSw0oFcUHDM
Great video as always, love the insight. One more class that could use a saw like this is a farmer or homeowner with a chunk of land that has big oaks, but can't afford an $1100 MS 660.. in no way would I advocate a guy with no experience operating one but a guy who needs to accasionally clear shooting lanes or clear large trees from farm roads or stash this saw at a cabin or hunt lodge.. I'd much rather stash a 400 dollar saw than even a 600 dollar Stihl ms360... for that kind of occasional use who cares if it is overkill or a bit heavy, the capability is increased so significantly. Just my thoughts.
+Anthony Grice Hey all opinions are valid.
Good thoughts! No worries.
I got one G660 built. Had a few missing screws, I got it from farmtec.
This video is really tempting me to add a Stihl to my growing collection. The crazy part is I cannot run a saw for any length of time due to my back injury. I'm hoping for a quick recovery until then I will continue to live vicariously through your videos LOL!
+fifty150sixteen They make smaller ones! I discovered modded 350's and the like after a life altering injury 3 years ago. Just now getting to the point I can really put a day on one of those beasts .. part of the reason they are creeping into more and more video time. :)
+afleetcommand I must have forgot to thank you for my modded 350. Funny thing is I modded a 350 then set it on the shelf unused. A few months back we had a HUGE wind storm. My 372xpw was down with stripped bolt holes in the handle. So I took with me a 460 Rancher and the little 350. I removed a tree from a house and one from a garage using the 460. At the end of the day when almost all work was done I thought I'd fire up the little 350 just for fun... Man if would have knew that saw could run the way it did I would have used it all along! I almost forgot to mention I Very much dislike that 460 Rancher!
Ever try poking a hole in that 460's muffler? (Well...maybe a more sophisticated muffler mod than a hole! )
+afleetcommand Yes. It seems like it's in tune one minute and off the next. I spent a lot of time online today reading others opinions of this saw and now feel there may be something wrong with my 460. I guess I will start with a vacuum and pressure test and check the fuel and impulse lines. A new carb may be in order? I will say that little 350 surprised the heck out of me though. It is lightweight and seemed to cut every bit as good as the 460 does even when it runs good. If I would have thought a 350 could run as good as that I would have been using it sooner.
very nice video,i have e-mailed farmer tec they soon will have a 044-ms440 version and a husqvarna 372xp my favorite coming soon and i like my jonsered 2171w also thanks and keep the videos coming with you and bob or spike 60
Hey Walt Any IP or design patens are only valid for 17 years. After that it is free to copy. The trade marks and copy rights are valid for longer. 75 years. These are good copies and as you state very useful parts. The key with all copies aftermarket part are do they hold up? If the main failure mode is "skider modification" these parts will get the job done. The plastics and the tanks are some the most expensive things to replace OEM if AM parts can can get a totaled saw back to work for $100. I think it a will all the way around.
Good info, thx. SO far I've had good results with most of the covers and plastic. Also with the cases. The handle bar is soft....and the plating on the 56mm cylinders was lousy.. BUt to your point, a lot of those parts can radically lower the cost of running those 064-MS660's in a production environment because exactly what you pointed out..:) AND that's where I had started. The concept of a "kit saw" evolved after my wife & I did the "goof" on jig saw puzzle.....the natural question was why not sell a kit? And here we are.
Well,this is awesome stuff and if I may, I would like to add another type to the first group of folks that would be very much interested in these well performing saws! Those that can't afford to drop $1,500 - almost 2k on a saw for whatever reasons it may be (like limited income),but,,,,,,,,,, properly built and by paying attention to detail,one can possibly have a saw that sparks! I very much need at least an 80cc ,but heck... Gonna go for length and power,get more length and power! PS. I'm very much a stihl fan but I'm also an even bigger fan of a saw that's gonna hold up and fire up when I need it to,without spending $$$ I don't have. Good stuff and I'll be using your videos as a guide! Thx
Just have to swap in parts "intelligently" to get them where they hold up..and if the expectation is to do some debug..they do work well. You need to see the "junk pike" 390 video. Made the point that sometimes starting from an OEM that needs to be rebuilt is cheapest..:)
Spark plug hole - l always put my spark plug chaser through the spark plug hole to clean out any burrs in the spark plug threads. I have jut got through basically building the ms 460 kit saw. I like what I see. It is not just a big bore 440. I am having to wait for a new set of Caber rings for it, because one of the rings was broken in the box. I love my 440. My general use saw is my ms 360, that I built last year. It has cut a lot, this year. Did you ever get your 360 running, adaquately? It is an excellent saw. I think my new 460 is going to be an excellent saw. It is not just a 52mm 440. The 460 is a completely different saw, more akin to the 361 and 660 than the 440.
Got it running well enough but it went away when the 361's showed up
afleetcommand I liked the 361 but the 360 is a more powerful and bigger engine. It is 62 cc v. 59.5 cc for the 361. The 361 seems to have more zip but the 360 has more grunt. I use my 360 all the time. It is my go to saw for a high stump. I sold the 361 because I was tired of fixing it. It had a plethora of minor problems and the 360 has had none and always performed flawlessly when called upon. It was the major player cutting down a bunch of hickories this spring and summer, backed up by my 440 for the heavy lifting jobs. The 360 has a 20 inch Total 2 bar on it and LGX chain. The 440 has a Holzforma 25 inch bar and LPX chain. Either saw can handle most cutting jobs, big or little.
afleetcommand my 361 went away because I was tired of fixing it. My 360 is still around.
I know this comment is 6 years late but I have a comment on the starting of these larger saws. So...I use to race karts with a modified briggs engine. Instead of a recoil mechanism everyone had small starters with an anvil that reached into a nut on the end of the crank. The starters consisted of a small starting motor, a switch and a small battery. I might have to try something like this as my right shoulder isn't worth much.
Autotune Husqvarna's should be n your future :)
cant beet this information i have converted my 066 with the big bore kit to a paramotor reduction is 3.3:1 propeller isfrom a top 80 paramotor it puts out about 40kg of static thrust and i have done some por work on exhaust and intake it flys great all after market hit and mis quality
I have not found the cylinders or cases to me the problem. What sucks are the carb and coils, plus a few parts connected to the control lever. I have built four different models, now so I am pretty experienced building them. I think a lot of Farmertec parts have improved in the past several years.
Gotta love the after market parts and for Stihl and husky replacement parts I have found many many a.m. parts companies, like nwp, meteor, hyway, wolf creek saw shop, wcsss sells a wiesco piston for the husky 371-2, that freakin riiipps!! Working on a Stihl 660 right now and the 371/372 is my next big project very good video, peace and love to all, be kind, and let's change the world folks, #TOPCHOPPEROUT
I've been watching/lurking for a while now. Based on your videos, I got a farmertec ms660 top end for a friend. I'll let you know how that goes... looks good so far. I also got some parts for an ms260 that look good, waiting on a couple more to complete. My 350 is a different saw now, and BTW my wife hates you. :-)
i cut about 10 tonne to a year for heating my home , these saws should be OK for my use straight out of the box assembled .i would love the skills to build one but no experience with small engines.
They sell them already put together on amazon, ebay or at hutzl.net with blue plastic.
Hi, I just bought a set of cases for my brothers 064 they look great hes wanting me too get at it , but since I have 12 surgery's on my self right now it will wait till it warms up lol, I wish I live closer to you just to b.s. on some things or mods that I have done, I ran a hot saw on nitro and boost bottle it was unreal but hey keep up the vids man I and others love watching
It's funny how guys will wreck their truck and put on Chinese made A.M parts and think nothing of it, nor do their friends cut them down for it. They have a starter, water pump or alternator go out on that truck and they do the same exact shit at auto parts stores. Take those same guys and put an A.M part on a Stihl or Husqvarna saw and all of the sudden they call you the biggest POS in the world ??? Really? I call that brainwashed brand loyalty.
I have tremendous brand loyalty to Stihl. I have an Sload of Stihl equipment in my shop. I just was not going to spend over a thousand for a Stihl 91.5cc pro saw, especially since they put that Mtronic crap on their high end saws. I know how to adjust the carb on a saw. I do not need some idiot engineer telling me how to do it. I do not mind computers but I like to tailor them to the way I do things and I am not used to taking orders. I am used to giving them..
Yes... yes... yessssss as fuck.
Husky, made in sweden from Chinese metals.
Stihl, assembled in germany, parts made in China
Echo, made in japan from chinese metals and samarai blood
MTD made in mexico
Walbro made in mexico
Zama made in China
Mcculloch, assembled in usa, parts made in Sweden, Mexico, and China .
Been working on and dealing saws for 25yrs. Guys who say they dont want Chinese saws kill me. Because they all have some origination in China. These farmertec saws are generic brands basically. All farmertec and holzforma parts and saws to leave my shop, have been used the same as name brands, and held up the same.
Why do you think trump is after them? China has taken over the world by stealing tech and products and making them the same and as durable as the original for half the price. Yes they are stolen intellectual property because the chinese companies did not buy the rights to the parts like all aftermarket companies have to. Instead they stole them. With the new trade deal trump got china to cave on this weekend will force china to pay for the stolen property. So prices will go up a bit but we will feel better about buying them lol some of us anyway because although i love my country and love honest companies... i also love money lol
Jccz
1pp
Well I ordered a MS 660 kit from Hutzle and received it a couple days ago! While casings etc all look excellent, the cylinder is junk . It clearly has 3 hairline cracks in the cylinder, And they honed thtu the nikosil plating at the cylinder base! This thing would come apart inside two or three tanks of fuel! I am not impressed at all! I have contacted Hutzle we will see what happens! Pretty clear why these things tend to seize!
What happened?
@@kdcustoms1272 nothing, he just likes to say bs on youtube about thing never happened🤣
What is the difference in carbs for a MS660 Walbro WJ69 VS. WJ67A VS. Zuma and will it make a difference what carb I replace the one on the saw with. Are any of them more reliable.
Mental gymnastics lol dan bongino fan? Me too. Thx for this video tho i have been wanting to try them.
1. Has this saw got a legal spark arrestor? (Important to us in the West.)
2. What fuel mix ratio does this saw use?
3. What chain did you use?
Excellent questions
1) As these come they do not have legal Spark Arrestors. If you watch more of the series I've done I've addressed that. The BEST way is to use the Hyway brand mufflers, they aren't too expensive and do have the proper spark arrestors. On my saws here on the farm it doesn't matter. The saws that go off the farm have either Hyway mufflers or OEM. Some have ones I've modded by tacking screens to the inside. NOT the best as its a pain to clean them.
2) I run 32:1 in all my two strokes. 40:1 is good, 50:1 is as little oil as I would consider. But for most with a good synthetic 40:1 is a good number. Do as I say not as I do?? Maybe. 32;1 with a low quality oil creates a lot of carbon.
3) Stihl RS or at that time Oregon LGX.
One more comment, if the goal is to have a cheap saw to depend on....find a used stihl. These require development and unless you have time skills and toolings don't waste time with one of these kits. Takes a few parts and some engineering to make them a useful saw and fact is a good clean Stihl OEM 066 or MS660 gets you there much faster, less hassle and if time is added to the metric for less money.
I was thinking of making some of these for resale until I saw the shipping cost of $114 for the one kit to CA USA. That pretty much wipes out most of my profit as I was thinking of selling these for around $350 per unit. I don't think folks would buy at $475 for just the saw without a bar, even $395 might be pushing it. Ordering 2 just adds another $100, now that is not reasonable shipping. It's only after you order 3 or more units that you start to save money. spend a $1,000 and shipping is $339.00, so $60+ shipping per unit. I do have one question though. What is the required ratio for fuel? a lot of the Chinese made units from eBay say 25:1. Now I have to decide if I want to pay the shipping for myself. I wonder what folks would be willing to pay for an assembled unit? properly assembled by a machinist. If there is a market I would be willing to invest in it.
As I had mentioned I really don't think the concept of building those for resale is a good idea. Those saw "kits" are the ultimate puzzle for a saw geek and that is their place in my mind. Just a whole pile of reasons why. I run 32:1 in all my two stokes using a good synthetic.
Have you seen problems with 40:1 or 50:1?
I checked shipping on a 5ea 660 kit order to central USA and it was $67 per kit. 10ea 660 kit shipping was $61.75 per kit.
I see dry parts with 50:1, not 40:1. And while I can't quantitatively blame 50:1 for some of the failure I've seen, common sense says that those situations where it was "on the edge" more oil might have mitigated the damage. I've run 32:1 for years and have never had an oil related failure of any kind. I've repair lots of other folks saws that have, so between the two experiences, I stick with 32:1. Failure analysis can be an interpretation of the evidence.....so I go to experience.
So, I'm guessing that Amsoil Saber 100:1 stuff has you running the other way! And the math is so much easier for those that can tolerate the imperial system....1 oz per quart or 4 oz per gallon.
Are these kits stocked with everything to build a saw from scratch or do you need the saw to start with?
Pretty much, as you will see if you follow the video series, I did have to use some OEM parts to get to a solid working saw
I did a 56mm build on my 064. I went with the Highway kit and it doesn't have free port, but you have to check the bottom clearance. Also, I put in a stihl decomp and it pops back out also. Is your flywheel metal or polymer?
+ppxstnr metal
Great video.
When you are going to put next video?
+Alen Smenderovac Very good question. I can't wait!
Who wants a huztl ms 660 - well, this old fart for one. I have screwed around with saws for 40 odd years but I never have operated a 92cc saw. I love stihl saws - have half dozen almost new ones.
thank you for making such grate videos. your videos on the husqvarna 61-272 hybrid inspired me to turn my 61 into a 272. now with this moats recent video on the longish term quality of these parts i think you've inspired my to build a big boar 660. having never taken on a project of this magnitude i was wondering if you had a parts list handy so i will know what parts to get from hudzle.
+Aaron T No list. I just go and buy the basic stuff which is pretty obvious and then fill in the blanks from a variety of places. Often detail parts come from my local Stihl dealer. My suggestion would be either start from a dead Stihl 066 or start with a pre assembled short block from Huztl then work from there.
you said in the tear-down inspections of your builds , you find no to very little wear internally; how much of this could you attribute to your running heavier oil mixes than suggested mix ratios ?
+Damon Hart Good question. I really don't know how much that has an effect. It's got to is what my instinct. I also think taking care upfront to find issues before assembly in things like the cylinders & pistons help.
An original stihl don't break. after 1000 hours wood cutting maybe need new rings from piston. Other things like rubbers. But you never need a crankcase. In a orignal Puller there is no plastic inside. I pull my ORIGINAL stihl 066, 461, 076 on without the decompressionvalve.
My G660 died after 6 months , with engine racing and then dying in a few seconds. I'm not experienced with combustion engines, but googling around indicates it is an air leak. What I'd need to know is what kind of tools and experience I would need to build one of these kits.
Need a set of case assembly tools/pullers for certain to do the kits. A T27 torx tee handle. I tweaked a brake tool to put on chain brake springs. An 8mm nut driver. Spark plug wrench. Torque wrench for the flywheel nut. ( 32ft-lbs min ). Patience and the willingness to research what others have done. No manual. Basically either a learning experience on mechanical basics of a saw, or a defining one where you will prefer to hire folks to do mechanical work :)
@@afleetcommand Thanks. I found some web pages that similarly list the tools you mention as part of a repair tech's tool kit, so I have a sense that the tool kit is not so mysterious or hard to put together.
I found the parts diagram and shop manual for the MS650 & 660. Should that be sufficient?
sure, I did it with nothing. Just common sense, and I'm not the sharpest tool in the shedd.....this stuff isn't rocket science. My hunch is with a manual to clarify parts location's & order and to get "torque" numbers, you should be fine. IF u run into stumble places, I would be curious and might put up "tactical" video's for folks to get over the "hump" and move along.
@@afleetcommand You've encouraged me to take the plunge.
I think what I'm going to do is order another built G660, and then a parts kit for a smaller saw, around 60cc which I will try to build. Why: the big saw I need now, but I can borrow smaller saws while I am building my own.
Could I impose on you for recommendations for models around 60cc? I'm a member in a volunteer woods management group, some felling, more bucking, and building benches etc. The big saw I've been using for milling and bigger trees. The smaller would be for everything else.
BTW, it appears that you can't get original Stihl parts unless you are an authorized dealer.
Hi mate
How do you find the vibration of the saw?
I've built a 023 and a 044 and both of the vibrate more than I would like.
How do you find the vibration on your ms660 now?
Do I need to run the saw in for it to faid away?
+lawnmowerman1271 They do vibrate! Interestingly enough as time has gone on they vibrate less....or I've become numb. Take your pick. A Husqvarna 390 vibrates a lot less....These MS660's are on the same level as my old Jonsered 920's and 2094's. And the 54mm versions vibrate less than the 56mm one.
Who are these saws for? I think I may be one of those people, and I have ordered a saw kit. I recognize that these kits are not the same as buying an OEM saw but I have a mild interest in using a big saw with an Alaskan mill now and then. For day to day firewood use, my Husky 555-AT is great but it is not a big saw. For my limited use of a big saw I cannot justify ever spending over $1200, so I think this kit is an option for me. I have some mechanical skills and the build videos I have watched tell me that a build is within my skill set. I am not a Stihl guy as such but I love my little 026. If a kit came available for a Husky 395XP I would have seriously considered it instead but I have not seen one.
Built with a Cross Performance top end, should be a good solid saw for what your doing..:)
Does that top end have any quality issues or issues with freeport?
How is the finish on those top ends? Are they ready to just install? How about any free port issues?
The 54's that come with them usually need just a little touch up, but I had issues with the plating on the 56mm's so just spend the extra and get those Cross Performance top ends, work well and seem to be consistent
Well, I started to assemble my own FT660 and did just fine until I went to measure squish on the stock 54mm cylinder without a base gasket. When I did that I discovered that the Farmertec piston and their crank interfered with each other. At BDC the piston was contacting the counterbalance weights of the crank but not enough to prevent rotation. I had to do some extreme thinning of the piston skirts to get rid of the interference. It took me about 5 minutes with hand files to get rid of the interference and two tries to verify that I was done filing. I am going to say that when I got a real measurement after the skirt mods the squish band was about 25 thousandths so I expect to go with a base gasket delete on this build.
I have my eye on a second hand 660 right now. Is it wise to buy this machine second hand? Or would you suggest to get one brand new?
New...Or a used OEM to restore. I wouldn't buy any of the Clones complete, rather get the parts and build it so I know whats in there..:) Also would let me sub in the better parts where needed....and don't have to trust the "buyer beware" types who hawk there stuff here and on the forums.
afleetcommand I contacted the seller and he told me the saw is completely stock, but has a new original cylinder and piston fitted at the dealer recently. The saw is from 2009, and he asks 600 euro (around 750usd i think) for it
If thats all OEM Stihl, I wouldn't worry about the parts. Should be a solid saw. The MS660 is one of the best saws of all time.
afleetcommand Thanks for the advice! I now stumbled upon an old 395xp for the same price... 😅 oh the decisions, the decisions 😉
Go with the 660..:) 395 is a horse, but heavy, certainly heavier than a 660. Unless you have a desire for a saw designed to pull 28in and larger bars, stay with the 660. Its lighter and a gazillion parts are out there as it has been a primary pro saw choice for decades starting with the 066.. Where the 395 has a more narrow focus, the 660 is a more all around saw with lots of power and very reliable.
how is a ms 271 for a part time wood turner
They are a proven saw...prefer them to some of the new Stihl's
Do you know if they have a 880 kit?
I don't, I kind of keep a distance so don't hear all the latest and greatest. They DO have a very active facebook page...you can probably go there and hear the latest plans from Farmertec.
Is the number, and, or name of your shop available?
No, not a business open to the public
how much do the farmer tec parts cost to build a 660 from scratch?
+storminnormanz Under 400.
Under $300 shipped now
johnnybarbar
so Huztl is charging over $100 for shipping costs in addition to the cost of the unit, itself?
My shipping is going to be just under $100 for a 660 kit to the central USA. A 440 kit, 660 kit, extra P&C and misc small parts is $147 shipping. 2ea 440 kits and 2ea 660 kits + misc parts is $274 shipping so, is doesn't get much less than $70 per kit. Forget the shipping and look at the total cost of about $300-$400(depending on OEM add ons) to build a 660 vs >$1000 retail.
where is the best place to buy AM parts?
+hankpointblank No one best place as I actually had to use three. Huztl eBay store, my local Stihl dealer, and the "dssjms" ebay store. A combination of these three sources for the AM parts allowed me to get the mix of parts I needed.. Also I have to say starting with a "blown up" Stihl 066 might be best for many. All the little detail parts like the screws and other hardware would be in that saw. I had to use the dealer for some of that stuff. I'm going to do a video starting that way as I think most will start from there (The blown up saw as a starting point). And the other approach is a "pre assembled" short block as there seems to be piles of those on eBay. In those cases I would stick to Huztl or dssjms. Dssjms is here in the states and the wait time is much less as a result. He's also familiar with the builds.
are u buying the whole kit or are u buying parts i have looked on farm techs web site an just see u have to buy parts
I built these before they sold kits. A collection of parts mostly from Huztl but OEM and others mixed in as well. AND as I'm discovering with others who are forging the path through Huztl kits, there are some minor differences between what I have and what's being shipped. Nothing really major, but details here and there. I have different topends, Huztl doesn't sell those 1122's anymore. And the cases have little differences for example I could use OEM chain adjusters where the ones coming through now have better adjusters but there are larger slots so the current fix is shims vs. OEM. I had different carbs. I could re jet a few some not. I believe all the ones coming through now have fixed jets...so my Walbro upgrade actually makes more sense now than then. A guess the pull starts are better now too. So a few things here and there, some better some just different; but I guess it isn't a paint by numbers build...:) Those Huztl kits are cheap and fairly complete...a great way to start if a saw puzzle is of interest.
Where you do buy a saw like this ?
Kits are at the Huztl.com site.
afleetcommand is it a complete saw without bar or just a parts kit ?
Just a box of power head parts. No B&C. And also from time to time you have to sub in "OEM" parts to make it work. Can't expect perfection especially at the price point.
For a person looking for a cheap alternative....unless the expectation is right this really isn't the right direction. Need skills and patience. And the ability to work through and around sub par parts from time to time...each one an individual. If the expectation is about building a mechanical puzzle....and willing to deal with the "crap shoot" relative to parts quality...some quite good, some not as I said before. These can be a learning experience, product a useful saw, and be fun....but if you are looking for a low cost saw that does what the "OEM" Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita products will at that level of maturity & reliability you will be disappointed even mad...:)
afleetcommand I've rebuilt a couple ms290's with after market parts, they are good but a challenge
I think they will be fine for a crew, remember that we didnt get in bed with the Chinese government, the company did. So its not our fault
?
@@afleetcommand i was referring to the folks who say the Chinese stole the design. If "still" and " husky" had not outsourced to china then i doubt they would be competing with them today. Kinda feel the same way about the national debt. If America did not share tech with other nations they would all be 200 years behind us lighting homes with candles. So how is it we owe them anything.? I have no problems with Chinese manufacturing. There is really no reason it cant be as good as anyones. I think thier lack of natural resources leads to lower quality metal. I no for a fact Chinese steel is not equal to Bethlehem Pa.steel. i have worked with both. Aluminum? Idk. I am waiting on my blue 66 right now. Thank you for putting this info out in public, Its many hours of research on your part I truely appreciate. I have learned alot. One thing i saw anouther fella do was replacing the de com.valve with a valve from a concrete saw . I thought that would be a smart thing to do with any saw that was compatible.. i am also thinking of a 070. When i can afford it ,but i am getting a climbing saw before the 070. I love my pro mac but its value and repair cost keep it hanging out more than working. These saws and kits will mostly be helping farmers and hard working men with families to feed. That cant be bad.. big outfits will be buying brand names. As usual. This gives a poor man like me a opportunity my fathers generation never had. Thank you very much.
Wow, You are right and may not know how spot on you are in so many ways. If you look at new "OEM" Husqvarna ignitions.....made in China. New OEM 550 Cylnders....made in China, Carburetors..same. I get it.
@@afleetcommand HAPPY NEW YEAR'S no worries Sr. I try to do the best i can. After that ,its the Almightys
I have no problem buying a saw built with slave labor, if it's cheap. I mean if they are producing it for next to nothing, I should get it for next to nothing.
Можно субтитры на русском
На самом деле не знаю
I bought the bigbore for the 660, don't buy it, the timing on the ports are fucked up.
Yeah, I hear that. They changed suppliers right around when I was doing those builds. There was the ones with a "square" base to the cylinder and while they free ported a bit they ran strong and lasted. THEN the subsequent ones didn't work as well. I horded the original versions. Mine still runs strong. Of course it doesn't get a lot of use anymore
Husky, made in sweden from Chinese metals.
Stihl, assembled in germany, parts made in China
Echo, made in japan from chinese metals and samarai blood
MTD made in mexico
Walbro made in mexico
Zama made in China
Mcculloch, assembled in usa, parts made in Sweden, Mexico, and China .
Been working on and dealing saws for 25yrs. Guys who say they dont want Chinese saws kill me. Because they all have some origination in China. These farmertec saws are generic brands basically. All farmertec and holzforma parts and saws to leave my shop, have been used the same as name brands, and held up the same.
Why do you think trump is after them? China has taken over the world by stealing tech and products and making them the same and as durable as the original for half the price. Yes they are stolen intellectual property because the chinese companies did not buy the rights to the parts like all aftermarket companies have to. Instead they stole them. With the new trade deal trump got china to cave on this weekend will force china to pay for the stolen property. So prices will go up a bit but we will feel better about buying them lol some of us anyway because although i love my country and love honest companies... i also love money lol
But avoid the plastic cases.
Of course that video was 3 years ago, I've had a lot more time on those saws since...basic premise the same but learned a bit more about what works and what doesn't....last year and last winter did a few video on the subject after these builds lived the life of a logger saw..:) Husqvarna..carbs & 550 cylinder's etc...China. Makita? :) I have no issue with the Chinese people and companies. None. Just taking advantage of opportunity. Not going to "go" into the subject, but I spent years in the "bleeding" edge technology world...and what the "political" brain trust did in the 1980's and 90's; both parties, is why we are fighting to maintain a technology edge now. We shrunk the "gap" from 25 years to essentially zero during that time following a thought process & world view that is prevalent even now, in fact is the "preferred" philosophy taught to our kids. We are in the process of understanding what that means, was it the right approach? Will our grand kids benefit? I guess time will tell... I have no room for politics here. It's about living life and sharing experiences.
To be honest i like em. I own lots of farmertec parts on lots of saws. No problem. But knowing what i know about the economy. I hope china does pay for the property it stole and discontinues stealing from us. I dont like that. Has it stopped me? No lol cuz i like money. But yes we have lost a tech edge. Thats changing now from what i see in the military community. Aircraft that wd considered "conspiracy theory" are actually being built and the patents wer declassified. Also perpetual motion generator patents were declassed. Thats huge. And now we are seeing free wireless electricity being used and tested in texas. And the fact that stihls new ms500i fuel injection was american designed is a big deal too. No clue where its being manufactured yet tho. Im anxious to see and test an ms500i. Fuel injected chainsaw lol what a time to be alive!
Have you tried converting one over to methanol
no. why would I do that? Takes time and there is no definable benefit
@@afleetcommand definite hp gain and run cooler
@@afleetcommand basically all you need to do is run a lot bigger carb