I’m a CNC machinist, if there’s one piece of advice I can give you that will save you time: mount your tool setter on your bed somewhere, give it a location, then set your z height of your part with a pre-measured tool. Then keep the same Z-0.00 for the whole Op. not sure how your controller works, but in any of my machines (all industrial machines) your tool offsets will be from machine zero. You should call up machine zero to measure your tools, or write a macro to do it, then use an offset (G54, G55, etc.) for your workpiece. You’ll never have the problem again where the tool cuts too deep from incorrect Z heights. Also, for the restart issue, not sure how your controller works, but one handy hint is to split ops into different blocks in your code, so if you meed to restart a certain part, you can very simply restart from the block number, it will give you all of your safety line info, offsets, etc… some controllers can start from a single line really well, others not so much, the reason is the tool offsets and cutter comp, you might call a G41 or G42 at the start of the block, but then if you restart from a line in the block it won’t pick up the cutter comp or tool offsets so it will cut exactly to the G-code instead of compensating for the cutter width. I suspect this is what happened for the control cavity. Another option, for beginners, is to select “In CAM” for you cutter comp, when making your CAM toolpath, so it won’t use cutter comp, it will instead write the toolpath according to the tool diameter. This is only for beginners, once you start making advanced parts with high precision you will need to use cutter comp, so you should get used to it from the start. There’s lots of mistakes the beginners make in CNC because they don’t have a machining background, and don’t understand compensation, and they find all these work-arounds for it, when they would be far better off learning the right way from the start. You have made 4 or 5 mistakes on this project because you don’t understand cutter comp, if you learn about it now, you won’t ever make those mistakes again, but if you make a work-around, one day you will make those mistakes same mistakes again.
Yes of course, I should show you exactly what happened regardless of what you will think about that. Showing that will help you to avoid these mistakes and learn that in the easy way. Many thanks
What you should try is put 2 holes at each end of your neck stock on the center line about a .25 inches in and drill those exact same holes at the exact same places on your waste board, then you can use 2 dowel pins to lock the neck stock " Neck board" in place. Then all you need is some hold down clamps. Also this allows for 2 sided milling or shaping of the neck. I do this and All I use is some hold down clamps. You simple drill locations holes for your neck and fret board for shaping and gluing. Oh and don't do it by hand use the CNC machine to do it.
I think the dowels are so important for accuracy, but clamps to hold down your wood blank is not that important if your wood is flat, or if you wanna try to flatten wood, you can clamp them from the side or use a double sided tape, you should not clamp the wood down and let it has the shape the the piece of the wood indeed has to be able to flatten it, if you clamp down everything, after releasing the clams everything will return to its original shape. Thank you for watching
I would encourage you to gather some inexpensive 2x4's glued up, then practice interrupting and picking up g code from the terminal. It's just terrible to mess up, so it's important to mess up on crap wood. The machine is totally capable for the job! Oh when you do the g code practice, record it for the next part of this journey! Thanks for sharing
I wanted to do it that way, but unfortunately I don’t have enough time to do two times, so went directly with the real one. Thank you for your time and support
You definitely should get one. It’s so much fun, although I will continue doing Handcrafted Builds like I always did without a CNC machine, but having one is a big help for making some templates and complicated inlays and a lot more.
@@lush462 in your case, I would probably go with the Mekanika because it’s more value for the money, and you still have the option to upgrade it in the future, just with buying the upgrade kit that mekanika will offer in the near future and you will have at the end a pro machine without having to pay for two machines.
ALOHA from MAUI INTERESTED IN BUYING THE SOARIS GUITAR AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE PRICE AND WHERE TO PURCHASE IT ! PLEASE FURNISH ME W/A CONTACT NUMBER AND/OR WEBSITE TO GET THIS AMAZING PIECE OF ART! BEST REGARDS, HANS
I’m a CNC machinist, if there’s one piece of advice I can give you that will save you time: mount your tool setter on your bed somewhere, give it a location, then set your z height of your part with a pre-measured tool. Then keep the same Z-0.00 for the whole Op. not sure how your controller works, but in any of my machines (all industrial machines) your tool offsets will be from machine zero. You should call up machine zero to measure your tools, or write a macro to do it, then use an offset (G54, G55, etc.) for your workpiece. You’ll never have the problem again where the tool cuts too deep from incorrect Z heights.
Also, for the restart issue, not sure how your controller works, but one handy hint is to split ops into different blocks in your code, so if you meed to restart a certain part, you can very simply restart from the block number, it will give you all of your safety line info, offsets, etc… some controllers can start from a single line really well, others not so much, the reason is the tool offsets and cutter comp, you might call a G41 or G42 at the start of the block, but then if you restart from a line in the block it won’t pick up the cutter comp or tool offsets so it will cut exactly to the G-code instead of compensating for the cutter width. I suspect this is what happened for the control cavity. Another option, for beginners, is to select “In CAM” for you cutter comp, when making your CAM toolpath, so it won’t use cutter comp, it will instead write the toolpath according to the tool diameter. This is only for beginners, once you start making advanced parts with high precision you will need to use cutter comp, so you should get used to it from the start.
There’s lots of mistakes the beginners make in CNC because they don’t have a machining background, and don’t understand compensation, and they find all these work-arounds for it, when they would be far better off learning the right way from the start. You have made 4 or 5 mistakes on this project because you don’t understand cutter comp, if you learn about it now, you won’t ever make those mistakes again, but if you make a work-around, one day you will make those mistakes same mistakes again.
Nice, I'm learning from this build. I like the fact you're showing us the mistakes that append along the process.
Yes of course, I should show you exactly what happened regardless of what you will think about that. Showing that will help you to avoid these mistakes and learn that in the easy way.
Many thanks
What you should try is put 2 holes at each end of your neck stock on the center line about a .25 inches in and drill those exact same holes at the exact same places on your waste board, then you can use 2 dowel pins to lock the neck stock " Neck board" in place. Then all you need is some hold down clamps. Also this allows for 2 sided milling or shaping of the neck. I do this and All I use is some hold down clamps. You simple drill locations holes for your neck and fret board for shaping and gluing. Oh and don't do it by hand use the CNC machine to do it.
I think the dowels are so important for accuracy, but clamps to hold down your wood blank is not that important if your wood is flat, or if you wanna try to flatten wood, you can clamp them from the side or use a double sided tape, you should not clamp the wood down and let it has the shape the the piece of the wood indeed has to be able to flatten it, if you clamp down everything, after releasing the clams everything will return to its original shape.
Thank you for watching
I appreciate the honesty starting at 19:30. I've made exactly the same kind of mistake.
Thanks a lot!
I would encourage you to gather some inexpensive 2x4's glued up, then practice interrupting and picking up g code from the terminal. It's just terrible to mess up, so it's important to mess up on crap wood. The machine is totally capable for the job! Oh when you do the g code practice, record it for the next part of this journey! Thanks for sharing
I wanted to do it that way, but unfortunately I don’t have enough time to do two times, so went directly with the real one.
Thank you for your time and support
I love watching a CNC work! I should get one some day.
You definitely should get one. It’s so much fun, although I will continue doing Handcrafted Builds like I always did without a CNC machine, but having one is a big help for making some templates and complicated inlays and a lot more.
Great walkthrough, thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Nice! Thanks for sharing. What mekanika size you use?
I’m using the Mekanika Evo M (stands for medium)
Thank you for watching
@@BaradaGuitars thanks! Looking to go CNC as well mostly for acoustic guitar building. Will probbaly go for a Mekanika or Shapeoko.
@@lush462 in your case, I would probably go with the Mekanika because it’s more value for the money, and you still have the option to upgrade it in the future, just with buying the upgrade kit that mekanika will offer in the near future and you will have at the end a pro machine without having to pay for two machines.
@@BaradaGuitars Yes I am leaning towards Mekanika. I live in Belgium so service would also be a factor.
too cool!
i learned a lot from you but may i ask a question .........i cant open the - Telecaster (Fusion 360 File) only one what i do wrong??
Same problem. Missing external references :(
Thanks
Thanks!
Good
Thanks
ALOHA from MAUI
INTERESTED IN BUYING THE SOARIS GUITAR AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE PRICE AND WHERE TO PURCHASE IT !
PLEASE FURNISH ME W/A CONTACT NUMBER AND/OR WEBSITE TO GET THIS AMAZING PIECE OF ART!
BEST REGARDS,
HANS