Restoring the froe | Sharpening and new bitternut hickory handle | Hand tool woodworking
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this video, I restore an antique froe. This tool was forged by a blacksmith from wrought iron in the mid 1800s. Froes are used to precisely split green wood to make many items like shingles, planks, spoon carving blanks, tool handles, and chair parts. The traditional froe has a tapered eye that fits a hardwood handle, allowing the handle to be easily removed for transport. Unlike most edge tools, froes do not need to be razor sharp since they simply act as wedges to split wood along the grain. Therefore, they were typically made from solid wrought iron without a hardened steel edge in the 19th century.
My goal in tool restoration is to make the tool clean and functional while preserving all of the unique signs of its age and history.
0:02 Intro
0:23 Disassembly
1:20 Removing surface rust
4:10 Restoring and sharpening the edge
5:35 Preparing the hickory handle
9:24 Fitting the handle
10:31 Finishing the handle
13:36 Testing on spalted beech
too good, thanks for bringing the legacy back and great share
Nice work, beautiful restoration.
Thanks @markluke8447 !
This is one of the nicest froes I have ever seen!
👍👍👍
Love the idea with the peace of wood to help with sizing
Thanks @isaacthornley29 !
Love it Man!!
I picked one a froe very much like your about a month back. Gonna get it out & work one it!!
See ya!!
Awesome, Good luck @mikehayes2233 !
@josephpadula2283
0 seconds ago
Real Wrought iron like this is very rust resistant .
What is called wrought iron today is just steel .
I learned this seeing real wrought iron fences in Galveston Texas on 100 year on homes and mansions in great shape while modern “wrought iron “ ( steel with modern paint) was badly rusted!
Galveston is a coastal city with salt spray And periodic hurricanes flooding the town with sea water,
Yet the old fenced that had been submerged in salty seas were still good.
Wrought iron is no longer made anywhere in the world and is only available as recovers from old buildings or equipment.
I've watched all your videos. Enjoyed every one of them. Hopefully you will continue to produce new content on a regular basis. ;-)
Thank you Jack, much more on the way!
Pretty sure that's the exact same froe I have sitting next to me😆
Exactly what I was looking for. I've been using an unrestored froe that looks just like yours. I've cleaned up the edge but need a new handle and your clear concise video will guide me. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your restoration!
I have a froe that is very similar to yours. The handle was also wedged like your original handle was. I too want to replace the handle with a friction fit version like you did. You've inspired me to get mine out and restore it. I wonder if they were made around the same time.
Awesome, Good luck @timothymallon !
Very nice but the bark at the head is the achilles heel…🖖🏻
Thanks Chuck, it seems solid so far, but I'll be happy if it lasts half as long as the original :)
What woods are best for making the frog and what shape should it be?
I'm in northern California near Oregon.
Boiled Linseed Oil vs Tung Oil?
How do you protect the edge of the froe when transporting it?
Hi John, any strong hard wood should be fine, eg oak, ash, hickory, maple. Preferably riven with very straight grain. Tung oil is a very nice finish but pure tung oil is expensive, takes a very long time to cure, and has a short shelf life. For protecting the edge, google "froe sheath"; there are some really nice examples of leather sheaths that slide over the blade with a strap that goes around the eye.
Liked and subscribed. Thanks for sharing. Is the wood you are using green? I'm only asking because ofvthe bark. I have a pear tree that is on it's way out after 90 years. I'd like to use it for handles and such but don't know if I can work it green. Thanks again and have a happy day!
Thanks John! The wood I used here is very green. I have another video where I used green pear wood to make a chisel handle. Note pear wood tends to check and twist quickly as it dries, so be sure to seal the end grain of your logs right away.
Tip: Wear gloves and eye protection when using wire wheels.
Great Video
Just picked up one like yours in mint condition...old shop find. $2
I agree with eye protection, but gloves and a wire wheel is just asking for problems. Gloves can easily snag and cause you to break fingers. It's actually VERY dangerous. A bite from a wire wheel is a mild abrasion, and although painful, its far less painful than snapping a finger or two
Nice job with the tapered fit on the handle. Shouldn’t have had a wedge in it. Looks like a previous owner also used a steel hammer on it. Definite no-no.
Thanks John!
What a nice restoration. My froe is as old as yours. Best wishes from Germany
Thank you! Cheers!
Absolutely lovely seeing an old neglected tool restored to glory. Well done. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks 👍
Nice work bringing an old tool back to life. Big thumbs up 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome channel! What is the bit called at 8:44? I need one of those.
Thanks! That is a Bruno Tools No 200-B expansive bit, made ~1940s. A unique design and one of my favorites.
What type of oil to you use when scrubbing off the rust?
Just regular motor oil. This happens to be some 0w40 that I had on hand.
@@thehandtoolworks So I guess anything would work really. I always have 3 in 1 around.
Nice job!
Thanks @gregelkins8178 !
What was the eye diameter of that blade?
About 50mm at the bottom tapering to about 45mm at the top
@@thehandtoolworks Thanks a lot!