By far the best tutorial I've found on how to setup and bind the r9ds to the at9s pro. As a newbie to the sport I flashed the FC without saving my RTF profile. Had to start from the beginning. Thank you for making it easy. Watch out for those terminals being correct.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! Very helpful! Everything is clear and simple with this video. I hope it will help owners of this radiolink AT-9!very nice settings menu by the way! Thank you!
+Nazgul Mordor Thanks for the kind comment and that you found this video helpful! RadioLink is very easy to use and I like the color menus. Always more videos to come!
Thank you SO much for posting the original Helipal settings in your Google Drive. One thing that's happening now though is the buzzer (beeper) won't stop beeping as soon as I connect the battery. I used to control it with the C switch but now no matter what I do, it just keeps beeping. Any advice on how to control this? Thanks again!
Seriously, thanks again for the Storm settings. That is something I have wondered about. Soo excited to finally have them I would donate money to your paypal or something as a thanks lol
+Flawless Krush No problem! All good and no need to donate. The views and nice comments as all I need. Thanks and feel free to reach out if you have any questions or comments.
Hi, I have some questions: in Vortex 250 quick start guide it's indicate this: -Change subtrim to -31 for THR, AIL, ELE, RUD - Change travel to +/- 119 on all channels. Did you do that on radiolink AT-9? How do you change travel and what is the good value (-119 or + 119?)? Last question, how do you setup switch (E or F) to switch off throttle. I would use a switch to cutoff or disarmed motor, it s more safe and easier than disarm by yaw stick. It will be a second security from my opinion. But I don't know how I can do that in Radiolink AT-9. Thanks for your help! I follow your video and it s working well! Well done again! ;)
+Nazgul Mordor No need to change any subtrims or travel on all channels. You only would need to do that if you could not complete the setup since the servo travel bars would not reach the end on OSD - this never occurred in the video. In the video description, I have photos of my settings uploaded. To answer your last question, this need to be done under MOTOR CUT on the transmitter I think AND definitely in CleanFlight for the Vortex as you need to assign an auxiliary or different switch for disarming the motor. Unfortunately I do not have detailed steps for this - sorry!
Hello again...im on a streak of questions haha I flew my drone today and was wondering why the picture on my FPV goggles was not very clear ...after 2 battery backs I realised that I left the spiral antenna off the drone.....arrrrrrghhhh..... newbie mistake!!...... no burning smell so that's a good sign I guess. I put it on it works still but the range isn't that great. Do you think I have damaged the video Tx?...... is this a stand alone video transmitter that I can buy and replace my existing one in the Vortex? ...... or is there any other better video Tx that you would suggest that is a simple plug and play with the existing cables( I looked at the ImmersionRC Race Band 200mw 5.8ghz on HobbyKing)? (I will be flying with my friend on Wednesday who has Fatshark V3 so I will see if its my Kylin FPV goggles that is the issue also). I also damaged the cable that goes between the R9DS rx and my vortex.....I have looked but cannot find where I can buy replacement cables to simply replace the damaged one.... do you know of any sites that I can just buy a replacement? Thanks again!
Every time I think I'm getting a handle on all this quad stuff, a video like this comes along and totally confuses me!! It's a good video, don't get me wrong, it just raised more questions than it answered for me. What is Helipad? Is it online software like Cleanflight or Librepilot? Also, how did you get the OSD to go to your FPV screen? Does that just happen automatically if you're in set up mode and you have the video TX and RX turned on, or do you have to have one of those OSD telemetry module things I keep hearing people talk about?
Do feel free to reach out if you have additional questions as I try my best to get them answered. HeliPal is an hobby distribute where I get most of my quadcopter stuff if I can't get it in the US. Lot of stuff comes from China but shipping is so slow. HeliPal has the fastest and best shipping as well as great service. OSD can be set up and customized once you set up your radio system. As soon as the quadcopter is powered up and you connect it with your FPV monitor or goggles, you can see the OSD as well as what the FPV camera sees. No need to telemetry as the data is displayed in front of you. If you don't have OSD, pilots will use telemetry to relay info about voltage, signal strength, time flying, etc. I prefer OSD and it is much simpler. Hope that helps!
Awesome video bud! I started off with a helipal srd 280 and AT9 Tx. I wanted to get a Vortex so thank for the video. How did you get the R9D inside the Vortex? can you post a how to or some pics?
+Stevenz6287 Thanks, much appreciated. Here are some photos (posted in video description too) of the R9D converted to micro sized. To make it micro sized, you will need to remove the case and all the header pins that you would use to connect servos to it (up to 9). Keep the bottom pin intact as that is used for S.BUS and connect the S.BUS cable to it. Alternatively you could solder the cable directly to it to save more space and more weight. Lastly, be cover the receiver with tape or shrink tube wrap to prevent electrical shorts. Make sure to not keep the little bind button pressed when covering the receiver up otherwise it will be stuck in binding mode. drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bwdh8mcr00lEWXM2T2VXZ0RYb1k&usp=sharing Hope that helps!
+Stevenz6287 No problem! I ended up bending the pins back and forth until the came off. The solder joint pads are pretty small, which makes this very easy to do without risk of damaging the PCB. Think of it when you keep bending a paperclip several times, it will eventually break off. I followed this same concept. Just make sure to do this carefully. After this, I took my soldering iron and removed the excess part of the pins on the solder pads. Make sure to remove the telemetry port too otherwise the receiver will not fit in the Vortex. Alternatively, you could desolder everything but this is pretty cumbersome with header pins IMO. Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter By chance do you think the R9D in the link below will work in the Vortex 250? I was trying to mess with my extra R9D today and jacked it all up.... Let me know what you think! Also how has the Vortex 250 been flying? www.helipal.com/radiolink-r9d-lite-s-bus-receiver-for-cc3d-flight-controller.html
Stevenz6287 Yes that is the same receiver I have. I did the shrinking of it myself but since Helipal offers the same, you use theirs. Just make sure to check the pinouts and polarity of it before you connect it to the Vortex. Please look at my video description for links and photos. Vortex has been flying pretty well lately - I changed out the motors to more powerful Scorpion ones. Been doing some mods for it with some Team BlackSheep stuff and long range FPV. Going to post more videos shortly.
Jon Jon Thanks! I would see why not that AT9 should work. S.BUS protocol is becoming pretty much standard with multirotors. The transmitter settings will be a little bit different for other quadcopters just to note. Hope that helps!
great video man! I'm trying to use my at9s, connected by sbus to the kiss fc, but, even all the channels works fine and the fc saw them all, I cannot arm! I tried everything, also changed the receiver but same result, any idea why?
TheBrinoz Thanks! Typically and most likely - if you can't arm, you may need to adjust your endpoint settings. For example, sometimes I cannot enter OSD and I have to rerun RC calibration and adjust endpoint settings. Hope that helps!
TheBrinoz No problem. Adjust as in the endpoints for the sticks - how far it electronically (physical on servos) travels. Since you are using a different flight controller and not the Fusion one on the Vortex the endpoints will be different.
Hi, thanks for this great video! I have set up my Vortex 250pro (Ummagawd edition) but when i aim motort, motor 3 and 4 speening fast and the others 2 normal. What can this be? using RadioLink AT9
Did you do the mini R9D yourself or buy from Heli Pal this way? I was thinking about buying a mini for the SP Racing Receiver from heli pal and changing the connector to fit the PowerCube. Or considering doing this myself. So if you did do it yourself, you should make a video describing how you did so =)
I did the micro receiver modification myself as I had the full sized version available from Helipal. You can save yourself a few dollars by doing it yourself. There are photos in video description on what I did but yes, a tutorial video for this might be good idea for me to make as I didn't know RadioLink radios are really popular. Hope that helps!
Hello thank you for this video. I am thinking about buying the immersion rc 180 124$ on amazon. I also have the radiolink at9 and at9s with the micro Rx. I looked threw all of my wires for that plug you have but i don't have it. Did you vortex come with that wire? I might have to solder the wires together to the right sbus connector for my micro RX. Can you please give me some tips or advise? Thank you.
Ian Rice No problem. The Vortex 180 according to the manual is supposed to come with 3 different receiver wires (S.BUS, FrSky XSR, and Spektrum). Chances are that you will have to solder a different connector to the S.BUS cable for the AT9 receiver (if it didn’t come with a JST or picoblade end connector) I personally did a direct solder to the AT9 receiver as the pads are exposed and it is only 3 wires. Let me know if you have any questions.
Jose Alvarez You can use both. I picked Kapton tape since it doesn't leave residue like electrical tape. Ideally shrink tubing is the best if you have the right size.
can you show me the white pin is it a four pin or three pin(connector)? and the black connector, is it a servo type of connector? maybe I can make one for myself, thanks.
Unfortunately you will have to make the cable yourself by soldering the different receiver cables the come with the vortex - I am pretty sure I mention this in the video. Also in the video description has some hi res photos of the cabling done. Hope that helps.
+Sergio Riquelme Hurtado Which SRD would be you referring to, unless you need specifics? Please check Helipal's website and select the model you are referring to >> then download the PDF manual from there. Towards the end of it, there will be photos of settings used.
Jon Jon That material is called Kapton Tape. Used quite a bit in the electronics industry for light weight, high temp resistant, and no residue properties. Hope that helps!
I have a somewhat silly question--- On the Radio Link AT 9, I have a real problem setting up the auxiliary channels for the use with Cleanflight. The channel -Ok, the switch? the position of the 3 way and function-- it has stopped me from designing the copter.Do you know of a video for AT9 that might cover auxiliary channel set up?
Are you able to see the switch moving/response in Cleanflight configurator? If not, then you need to set it up on the transmitter. From there, you can map the function of it in the configurator.
I have an AT9 and have found most of the programing ok. I have set up aux channels and the switches (3 and 2 way) show that they are working in the radio. When I go to Cleanflight, fliping the switches will not show on Cleanflight. This means I can not set up any aux channels. Have I missed something?
Sorry for the late response. If the channels show they are working fine on the radio, it would be an issue with the COM drivers for the flight controller. Typically I reinstall the drivers and update the firmware too and that seems to fix the issue.
Dude just what I needed! You're awesome! Do you know if it would be possible to use the Radiolink R6D receiver with the Vortex Pro? It would be nice to use the smaller package, and that way I could just keep my standard receiver in my CX-20. You're the man.
+SoLongSidekick Thnaks! Yes. you can use the R6D receiver with the Vortex, but you will have to use PPM as it does not support S.BUS. You can use the main receiver port - CPPM for that I believe. I would stick with the R9D as S.BUS is much faster, lower latency, and simpler. You can make the R9D as small as the R6D and just remove the outer casing. Details in the video description show what I did. Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter Good point, especially on a quad like this. That could make a real difference on something so freaking fast. Maybe I'll just pick up another R9D and keep one in my Vortex and one in my CX-20. I know the AT-9 has supposedly really easy profile settings for switching between quads, do you have any idea if it's just as easy to switch between receivers?
SoLongSidekick The R9D receivers are not too expensive FYI. It is easy to switch between different receivers (aka models). If you see under my settings on the 4th page here, under MODEL SEL. you can switch between different settings and profiles, included different receivers. drive.google.com/open?id=0Bwdh8mcr00lESEswS0RxVXFCT2s Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter So it is easy to just put R9Ds in both of my quads and switch between them using the AT9 profiles? I hoped and assumed that would be the case, but sometimes with identical hardware you have address issues where you have to manually fiddle with them every time you want to switch between them. I actually bought the AT9 to replace the stock radio system in my CX20 and was beyond stoked to see your video and realize I can also use it for the Vortex with no issues. That definitely cuts down on the equipment needed if I ever want to bring both somewhere - especially since I have a backpack for the CX20, a bag for the AT9, and the Vortex comes with a case. So now that you're not mounting the receiver on the tail of the Vortex, how big of a battery have you been able to stably fly? Or have you done any testing on that? The manual says not to go any longer than ~80mm in battery length, but I've heard of people using 2,200mAh batteries that are ~100cm in length without issue. I mean you don't want to load this thing down with too much weight anyways, so 2,200mAh might be the highest practical.
SoLongSidekick Yes, that is correct. Please look at the PDF settings I use and on the 4th page, it has a photo. But under Model Sel. is where you switch between different models 01 to 15. Almost all modern radio systems allow you to switch and store models and profiles so you do not have to carry multiple transmitters (TX). Most flyers carry one TX to the field. Each profile/model saved pertain to the specific receiver bound and it will not bind unless you switch to the correct profile...ex, I use profile 01 for the Vortex and 02 for my SRD and if I am in 01, it will not connect to my SRD - I have to switch to 02 for it to work and vice versa. As for any procedure binding with new receivers, check your trims and end points. For battery size on my Vortex, I run maximum of 4S 2200mAh - Venom Fly if your receiver is mounted inside the quad. I don't recommend using higher capacity 4S (could go higher if using 3S though) as the increase in mass will eventually outdo the increase in flying time. Also to note, too large of battery, you could risk hitting the rear prop blades and plus the quad will feel sluggish >> you will need to manually adjust your PIDs. Stock PIDs are fine up to 2200mAh. I get about 5-6 run time with 4s 2200mAh on cruising mode, otherwise 5 min on hard flying. For 1300mAh, I get about 2-3 min. 4s 2200mAh Venom has dimensions ( LxWxH) of: 103 x 34 x 27 mm / 4.1 x 1.3 x 1.1 in You could go an extra inch for length, if you can find a pack that long, otherwise, don't go wider. Here's a video of flight test with 2200mAh and RadioLink... Yes, that is correct. Please look at the PDF settings I use and on the 4th page, it has a photo. But under Model Sel. is where you switch between different models 01 to 15. Almost all modern radio systems allow you to switch and store models and profiles so you do not have to carry multiple transmitters (TX). Most flyers carry one TX to the field. Each profile/model saved pertain to the specific receiver bound and it will not bind unless you switch to the correct profile...ex, I use profile 01 for the Vortex and 02 for my SRD and if I am in 01, it will not connect to my SRD - I have to switch to 02 for it to work and vice versa. As for any procedure binding with new receivers, check your trims and end points. For battery size on my Vortex, I run maximum of 4S 2200mAh - Venom Fly if your receiver is mounted inside the quad. I don't recommend using higher capacity 4S (could go higher if using 3S though) as the increase in mass will eventually outdo the increase in flying time. Also to note, too large of battery, you could risk hitting the rear prop blades and plus the quad will feel sluggish >> you will need to manually adjust your PIDs. Stock PIDs are fine up to 2200mAh. I get about 5-6 run time with 4s 2200mAh on cruising mode, otherwise 5 min on hard flying. For 1300mAh, I get about 2-3 min. 4s 2200mAh Venom has dimensions (LxWxH) of: 103 x 34 x 27 mm / 4.1 x 1.3 x 1.1 in You could go an extra inch for L only if you could find a longer pack. Here's a video of me flying with a 2200mAh pack and RadioLink for Vortex: ua-cam.com/video/76mkdRd9ASU/v-deo.html Hope that helps!
I am not sure of your question here. Do you mean, how do you transmit telemetry from the quadcopter to the AT9? If so, I am not sure if that is supported on this particular receiver.
Hello guy, I am new in this field and wanted to say thank you for the good tuto. Nevertheless, is someone can help me to setup flight modes (acro, horizon, alt) with the radiolink at9s? Thanks
okay I got an rx122 and everything connect but I cant unlock the at9 after the rx122 is connected...theyres a yellow lock on your at9...how can I get pass this so I can fly???
Nickos White I'm not sure what you mean...the yellow lock means that the radio menu will no respond to accidental touch of the buttons and dial wheel to prevent undesired setting changes during flight. However the sticks and flip switches will always respond. These settings can be change under Parameter menu. Once you have successful bound the receiver to the transmitter, you may might need to set up the radio system under Cleanflight/Betaflight for your model. This video shows that you don't need a PC to set up the Vortex - however other models may.
I'm having problems with my Vortex and AT9. Connected ok and wizard has been completed. But when I arm the quad it seems to go full throttle and throttle stick has no effect. Any ideas??
You have your channels mixed up I believe. Make sure that the RC calibration wizard has the right end points and mapping that shows up for the setup in the Vortex, e.g., when you move throttle up, it should show that up on the screen and when you move right stick fully to the right, it shows that and so on.
+MatrixWriter That's what I thought at first but after doing the setup wizard multiple times and making sure all the values are registering correctly it's still happening! Is there a way to factory reset the Vortex?
+Easty66 To reset the Vortex, plug in the battery (and hopefully the rear LED’s will come on) and push the button on the top right of the LED board for 8 seconds. Resetting the quad will return the Vortex to the factory state in PPM rx mode. You'll then need to run through the normal setup process. I also advise if you have not to update the firmware on the Vortex to the latest one, this can be done using ImmersionRC tools. Hope that helps!
Nickos White The steps are generally the same. Make sure the receiver and transmitter are bound together and in S.BUS mode. Next have your assigned Aux switches (flight, arm, etc) set. Power up the Atom and the TBS Powercube will have you go through the RC wizard setup - similar to the Vortex.
ive got the same transmitter, i cant get my quad to arm once it blinds to the transmitter...how do you arm your quad?and would i change settings in betaflight or on the transmitter itself?
Changing how arming is done is configured in betaflight/cleanflight. By default, the left throttle stick (mode 2) is used for arming when you bring it down all the way to the bottom left (disarm to by bringing it to the bottom right). It is recommended these days to assign an aux switch to arm and disarm (you would set that up in betaflight after pick your switch on the AT9).
@@MatrixWriter thanks bruh.i going to try it out in the am,ive never setup a drone through beta or cleanflight..anyway chance you could walk me thru it step by step?
@@nickodadon1328 No problem, I'll do my best to help you out if needed if you are unable to find anything online. Feel free to email me which is located on the About section of my channel.
Yes it will do PPM - if the LED color is red, it is in PPM mode, otherwise blue/purple is S.BUS. I highly recommend S.BUS over PPM for lower latency and simplicity.
+MatrixWriter thanks. I know sbus is better, but I bought a lil rclogger brushless and it will accept ppm only. So I'm figuring out which radio to buy and I'm considering the radio link. I like the price, but it doesn't seem like many people are using them.
+brian s No problem. I see what you mean by your setup now. On the receiver (R9D), double click the bind button to change the modes. For smaller and lighter setups, you can remove the casing. For the price point and features, RadioLink AT9 is not a bad system, great entry level system for the amount of features. For even more advanced users and customizability and features, I would recommend the FrSky Taranis. I use the Taranis for long range FPV and such. For quick flights and testing I use the the RadioLink. RadioLinks are actually pretty popular overseas and China. Just not in the States. Hope that helps!
By far the best tutorial I've found on how to setup and bind the r9ds to the at9s pro. As a newbie to the sport I flashed the FC without saving my RTF profile. Had to start from the beginning. Thank you for making it easy. Watch out for those terminals being correct.
I just got done setting up my at9 and V250Pro as well. I had no problems with setup thanks to your very informative video tutorial, thank you sir!
Awesome thanks for the feed back and happy flying!
2020 and im still here learning about radiolink..:)
This is the only video I found for the AT9 for vortex. Thanks a lot it was very useful
Thanks for the kind comment!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! Very helpful! Everything is clear and simple with this video. I hope it will help owners of this radiolink AT-9!very nice settings menu by the way! Thank you!
+Nazgul Mordor Thanks for the kind comment and that you found this video helpful! RadioLink is very easy to use and I like the color menus. Always more videos to come!
Thanks so much for this tutorial!! Wish more was out there covering the Radiolink system because it is awesome.
Thank you SO much for posting the original Helipal settings in your Google Drive. One thing that's happening now though is the buzzer (beeper) won't stop beeping as soon as I connect the battery. I used to control it with the C switch but now no matter what I do, it just keeps beeping. Any advice on how to control this? Thanks again!
Will Dominguez Did you try reversing your channel for the buzzer switch?
Seriously, thanks again for the Storm settings. That is something I have wondered about. Soo excited to finally have them I would donate money to your paypal or something as a thanks lol
+Flawless Krush No problem! All good and no need to donate. The views and nice comments as all I need.
Thanks and feel free to reach out if you have any questions or comments.
Hi, I have some questions: in Vortex 250 quick start guide it's indicate this:
-Change subtrim to -31 for THR, AIL, ELE, RUD
- Change travel to +/- 119 on all channels.
Did you do that on radiolink AT-9? How do you change travel and what is the good value (-119 or + 119?)?
Last question, how do you setup switch (E or F) to switch off throttle. I would use a switch to cutoff or disarmed motor, it s more safe and easier than disarm by yaw stick. It will be a second security from my opinion. But I don't know how I can do that in Radiolink AT-9.
Thanks for your help! I follow your video and it s working well! Well done again! ;)
+Nazgul Mordor
No need to change any subtrims or travel on all channels. You only would need to do that if you could not complete the setup since the servo travel bars would not reach the end on OSD - this never occurred in the video.
In the video description, I have photos of my settings uploaded.
To answer your last question, this need to be done under MOTOR CUT on the transmitter I think AND definitely in CleanFlight for the Vortex as you need to assign an auxiliary or different switch for disarming the motor. Unfortunately I do not have detailed steps for this - sorry!
+MatrixWriter Thank you for the quick reply! You are very helpful!! :)
No problem! I try my best to help out. Have a great time and safe flying!
Hello again...im on a streak of questions haha
I flew my drone today and was wondering why the picture on my FPV goggles was not very clear ...after 2 battery backs I realised that I left the spiral antenna off the drone.....arrrrrrghhhh..... newbie mistake!!...... no burning smell so that's a good sign I guess.
I put it on it works still but the range isn't that great. Do you think I have damaged the video Tx?...... is this a stand alone video transmitter that I can buy and replace my existing one in the Vortex? ...... or is there any other better video Tx that you would suggest that is a simple plug and play with the existing cables( I looked at the ImmersionRC Race Band 200mw 5.8ghz on HobbyKing)? (I will be flying with my friend on Wednesday who has Fatshark V3 so I will see if its my Kylin FPV goggles that is the issue also).
I also damaged the cable that goes between the R9DS rx and my vortex.....I have looked but cannot find where I can buy replacement cables to simply replace the damaged one.... do you know of any sites that I can just buy a replacement?
Thanks again!
Every time I think I'm getting a handle on all this quad stuff, a video like this comes along and totally confuses me!! It's a good video, don't get me wrong, it just raised more questions than it answered for me. What is Helipad? Is it online software like Cleanflight or Librepilot? Also, how did you get the OSD to go to your FPV screen? Does that just happen automatically if you're in set up mode and you have the video TX and RX turned on, or do you have to have one of those OSD telemetry module things I keep hearing people talk about?
Do feel free to reach out if you have additional questions as I try my best to get them answered.
HeliPal is an hobby distribute where I get most of my quadcopter stuff if I can't get it in the US. Lot of stuff comes from China but shipping is so slow. HeliPal has the fastest and best shipping as well as great service.
OSD can be set up and customized once you set up your radio system. As soon as the quadcopter is powered up and you connect it with your FPV monitor or goggles, you can see the OSD as well as what the FPV camera sees.
No need to telemetry as the data is displayed in front of you. If you don't have OSD, pilots will use telemetry to relay info about voltage, signal strength, time flying, etc. I prefer OSD and it is much simpler.
Hope that helps!
Life Saver!!!
Awesome video bud! I started off with a helipal srd 280 and AT9 Tx. I wanted to get a Vortex so thank for the video. How did you get the R9D inside the Vortex? can you post a how to or some pics?
+Stevenz6287 Thanks, much appreciated.
Here are some photos (posted in video description too) of the R9D converted to micro sized.
To make it micro sized, you will need to remove the case and all the header pins that you would use to connect servos to it (up to 9). Keep the bottom pin intact as that is used for S.BUS and connect the S.BUS cable to it. Alternatively you could solder the cable directly to it to save more space and more weight. Lastly, be cover the receiver with tape or shrink tube wrap to prevent electrical shorts. Make sure to not keep the little bind button pressed when covering the receiver up otherwise it will be stuck in binding mode.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bwdh8mcr00lEWXM2T2VXZ0RYb1k&usp=sharing
Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter Thank you for the quick response! One least question... do you de-solder the pins or cut them?
+Stevenz6287
No problem! I ended up bending the pins back and forth until the came off. The solder joint pads are pretty small, which makes this very easy to do without risk of damaging the PCB. Think of it when you keep bending a paperclip several times, it will eventually break off. I followed this same concept. Just make sure to do this carefully. After this, I took my soldering iron and removed the excess part of the pins on the solder pads. Make sure to remove the telemetry port too otherwise the receiver will not fit in the Vortex.
Alternatively, you could desolder everything but this is pretty cumbersome with header pins IMO.
Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter By chance do you think the R9D in the link below will work in the Vortex 250? I was trying to mess with my extra R9D today and jacked it all up.... Let me know what you think! Also how has the Vortex 250 been flying?
www.helipal.com/radiolink-r9d-lite-s-bus-receiver-for-cc3d-flight-controller.html
Stevenz6287 Yes that is the same receiver I have. I did the shrinking of it myself but since Helipal offers the same, you use theirs. Just make sure to check the pinouts and polarity of it before you connect it to the Vortex. Please look at my video description for links and photos.
Vortex has been flying pretty well lately - I changed out the motors to more powerful Scorpion ones. Been doing some mods for it with some Team BlackSheep stuff and long range FPV. Going to post more videos shortly.
Thank you for sharing this imformation
Hi
Awesome video and just what I needed.
Will the AT9 work with the new Vortex mini pro?
Many thanks !!
Jon Jon Thanks! I would see why not that AT9 should work. S.BUS protocol is becoming pretty much standard with multirotors. The transmitter settings will be a little bit different for other quadcopters just to note. Hope that helps!
great video man! I'm trying to use my at9s, connected by sbus to the kiss fc, but, even all the channels works fine and the fc saw them all, I cannot arm! I tried everything, also changed the receiver but same result, any idea why?
TheBrinoz Thanks! Typically and most likely - if you can't arm, you may need to adjust your endpoint settings. For example, sometimes I cannot enter OSD and I have to rerun RC calibration and adjust endpoint settings. Hope that helps!
thx for help! what you mean with "adjust"? on the radio? I saw yours and they are the same
TheBrinoz No problem. Adjust as in the endpoints for the sticks - how far it electronically (physical on servos) travels. Since you are using a different flight controller and not the Fusion one on the Vortex the endpoints will be different.
Great Video!!!
Hi, thanks for this great video!
I have set up my Vortex 250pro (Ummagawd edition) but when i aim motort, motor 3 and 4 speening fast and the others 2 normal. What can this be? using RadioLink AT9
Sorry for the late response. It could be that your quadcopter is not leveled (relevel it) and or you might want to recalibrate your ESCs.
Did you do the mini R9D yourself or buy from Heli Pal this way? I was thinking about buying a mini for the SP Racing Receiver from heli pal and changing the connector to fit the PowerCube. Or considering doing this myself. So if you did do it yourself, you should make a video describing how you did so =)
I did the micro receiver modification myself as I had the full sized version available from Helipal. You can save yourself a few dollars by doing it yourself. There are photos in video description on what I did but yes, a tutorial video for this might be good idea for me to make as I didn't know RadioLink radios are really popular.
Hope that helps!
Hello thank you for this video. I am thinking about buying the immersion rc 180 124$ on amazon. I also have the radiolink at9 and at9s with the micro Rx. I looked threw all of my wires for that plug you have but i don't have it. Did you vortex come with that wire? I might have to solder the wires together to the right sbus connector for my micro RX. Can you please give me some tips or advise? Thank you.
Ian Rice No problem. The Vortex 180 according to the manual is supposed to come with 3 different receiver wires (S.BUS, FrSky XSR, and Spektrum). Chances are that you will have to solder a different connector to the S.BUS cable for the AT9 receiver (if it didn’t come with a JST or picoblade end connector)
I personally did a direct solder to the AT9 receiver as the pads are exposed and it is only 3 wires. Let me know if you have any questions.
Nice video
Does it bind on a s-fhss receiver on my micro Heli ,?
Is the Kapton tape necessary or would electric tape work?
Jose Alvarez You can use both. I picked Kapton tape since it doesn't leave residue like electrical tape. Ideally shrink tubing is the best if you have the right size.
can you show me the white pin is it a four pin or three pin(connector)? and the black connector, is it a servo type of connector? maybe I can make one for myself, thanks.
Unfortunately you will have to make the cable yourself by soldering the different receiver cables the come with the vortex - I am pretty sure I mention this in the video. Also in the video description has some hi res photos of the cabling done.
Hope that helps.
+MatrixWriter, Do you have the default settings for the radio that came with the SRD?
+Sergio Riquelme Hurtado Which SRD would be you referring to, unless you need specifics? Please check Helipal's website and select the model you are referring to >> then download the PDF manual from there. Towards the end of it, there will be photos of settings used.
The yellow wrap that you have put around your receiver, what type of material is that called please?
I presume its not heatshrink?
Thanks
Jon Jon That material is called Kapton Tape. Used quite a bit in the electronics industry for light weight, high temp resistant, and no residue properties. Hope that helps!
Awesome ....once again of much help!
Cheers
Jon Jon No problem! Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.
I have a somewhat silly question--- On the Radio Link AT 9, I have a real problem setting up the auxiliary channels for the use with Cleanflight. The channel -Ok, the switch? the position of the 3 way and function-- it has stopped me from designing the copter.Do you know of a video for AT9 that might cover auxiliary channel set up?
Are you able to see the switch moving/response in Cleanflight configurator? If not, then you need to set it up on the transmitter. From there, you can map the function of it in the configurator.
I have an AT9 and have found most of the programing ok. I have set up aux channels and the switches (3 and 2 way) show that they are working in the radio. When I go to Cleanflight, fliping the switches will not show on Cleanflight. This means I can not set up any aux channels. Have I missed something?
Sorry for the late response. If the channels show they are working fine on the radio, it would be an issue with the COM drivers for the flight controller. Typically I reinstall the drivers and update the firmware too and that seems to fix the issue.
NICE
Dude just what I needed! You're awesome! Do you know if it would be possible to use the Radiolink R6D receiver with the Vortex Pro? It would be nice to use the smaller package, and that way I could just keep my standard receiver in my CX-20. You're the man.
+SoLongSidekick Thnaks!
Yes. you can use the R6D receiver with the Vortex, but you will have to use PPM as it does not support S.BUS.
You can use the main receiver port - CPPM for that I believe.
I would stick with the R9D as S.BUS is much faster, lower latency, and simpler. You can make the R9D as small as the R6D and just remove the outer casing. Details in the video description show what I did.
Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter Good point, especially on a quad like this. That could make a real difference on something so freaking fast. Maybe I'll just pick up another R9D and keep one in my Vortex and one in my CX-20. I know the AT-9 has supposedly really easy profile settings for switching between quads, do you have any idea if it's just as easy to switch between receivers?
SoLongSidekick The R9D receivers are not too expensive FYI. It is easy to switch between different receivers (aka models). If you see under my settings on the 4th page here, under MODEL SEL. you can switch between different settings and profiles, included different receivers.
drive.google.com/open?id=0Bwdh8mcr00lESEswS0RxVXFCT2s
Hope that helps!
+MatrixWriter So it is easy to just put R9Ds in both of my quads and switch between them using the AT9 profiles? I hoped and assumed that would be the case, but sometimes with identical hardware you have address issues where you have to manually fiddle with them every time you want to switch between them.
I actually bought the AT9 to replace the stock radio system in my CX20 and was beyond stoked to see your video and realize I can also use it for the Vortex with no issues. That definitely cuts down on the equipment needed if I ever want to bring both somewhere - especially since I have a backpack for the CX20, a bag for the AT9, and the Vortex comes with a case.
So now that you're not mounting the receiver on the tail of the Vortex, how big of a battery have you been able to stably fly? Or have you done any testing on that? The manual says not to go any longer than ~80mm in battery length, but I've heard of people using 2,200mAh batteries that are ~100cm in length without issue. I mean you don't want to load this thing down with too much weight anyways, so 2,200mAh might be the highest practical.
SoLongSidekick Yes, that is correct. Please look at the PDF settings I use and on the 4th page, it has a photo. But under Model Sel. is where you switch between different models 01 to 15.
Almost all modern radio systems allow you to switch and store models and profiles so you do not have to carry multiple transmitters (TX). Most flyers carry one TX to the field. Each profile/model saved pertain to the specific receiver bound and it will not bind unless you switch to the correct profile...ex, I use profile 01 for the Vortex and 02 for my SRD and if I am in 01, it will not connect to my SRD - I have to switch to 02 for it to work and vice versa.
As for any procedure binding with new receivers, check your trims and end points.
For battery size on my Vortex, I run maximum of 4S 2200mAh - Venom Fly if your receiver is mounted inside the quad. I don't recommend using higher capacity 4S (could go higher if using 3S though) as the increase in mass will eventually outdo the increase in flying time. Also to note, too large of battery, you could risk hitting the rear prop blades and plus the quad will feel sluggish >> you will need to manually adjust your PIDs. Stock PIDs are fine up to 2200mAh.
I get about 5-6 run time with 4s 2200mAh on cruising mode, otherwise 5 min on hard flying. For 1300mAh, I get about 2-3 min.
4s 2200mAh Venom has dimensions ( LxWxH) of:
103 x 34 x 27 mm / 4.1 x 1.3 x 1.1 in
You could go an extra inch for length, if you can find a pack that long, otherwise, don't go wider.
Here's a video of flight test with 2200mAh and RadioLink...
Yes, that is correct. Please look at the PDF settings I use and on the 4th page, it has a photo. But under Model Sel. is where you switch between different models 01 to 15.
Almost all modern radio systems allow you to switch and store models and profiles so you do not have to carry multiple transmitters (TX). Most flyers carry one TX to the field. Each profile/model saved pertain to the specific receiver bound and it will not bind unless you switch to the correct profile...ex, I use profile 01 for the Vortex and 02 for my SRD and if I am in 01, it will not connect to my SRD - I have to switch to 02 for it to work and vice versa.
As for any procedure binding with new receivers, check your trims and end points.
For battery size on my Vortex, I run maximum of 4S 2200mAh - Venom Fly if your receiver is mounted inside the quad. I don't recommend using higher capacity 4S (could go higher if using 3S though) as the increase in mass will eventually outdo the increase in flying time. Also to note, too large of battery, you could risk hitting the rear prop blades and plus the quad will feel sluggish >> you will need to manually adjust your PIDs. Stock PIDs are fine up to 2200mAh.
I get about 5-6 run time with 4s 2200mAh on cruising mode, otherwise 5 min on hard flying. For 1300mAh, I get about 2-3 min.
4s 2200mAh Venom has dimensions (LxWxH) of:
103 x 34 x 27 mm / 4.1 x 1.3 x 1.1 in
You could go an extra inch for L only if you could find a longer pack.
Here's a video of me flying with a 2200mAh pack and RadioLink for Vortex:
ua-cam.com/video/76mkdRd9ASU/v-deo.html
Hope that helps!
I tried double tapping. But it didn’t worked. My receiver is in pwm mode. I need sbus. But it’s not changing. Why it’s happening?
hello, how do you see battery voltage without telemetry on the transmitter? I ordered at9s also and wondering how I can do that..thanks
I am not sure of your question here. Do you mean, how do you transmit telemetry from the quadcopter to the AT9? If so, I am not sure if that is supported on this particular receiver.
where can I get this s. bus cable?
will my AT9 connect with 32bit NAZE32 Flight Control Board?
Nickos White Yes of course it should be able to. For best performance, set up your Naze32 for S.BUS mode.
Hello guy,
I am new in this field and wanted to say thank you for the good tuto.
Nevertheless, is someone can help me to setup flight modes (acro, horizon, alt) with the radiolink at9s?
Thanks
okay I got an rx122 and everything connect but I cant unlock the at9 after the rx122 is connected...theyres a yellow lock on your at9...how can I get pass this so I can fly???
Nickos White I'm not sure what you mean...the yellow lock means that the radio menu will no respond to accidental touch of the buttons and dial wheel to prevent undesired setting changes during flight. However the sticks and flip switches will always respond.
These settings can be change under Parameter menu.
Once you have successful bound the receiver to the transmitter, you may might need to set up the radio system under Cleanflight/Betaflight for your model. This video shows that you don't need a PC to set up the Vortex - however other models may.
I'm having problems with my Vortex and AT9. Connected ok and wizard has been completed. But when I arm the quad it seems to go full throttle and throttle stick has no effect. Any ideas??
You have your channels mixed up I believe. Make sure that the RC calibration wizard has the right end points and mapping that shows up for the setup in the Vortex, e.g., when you move throttle up, it should show that up on the screen and when you move right stick fully to the right, it shows that and so on.
+MatrixWriter That's what I thought at first but after doing the setup wizard multiple times and making sure all the values are registering correctly it's still happening! Is there a way to factory reset the Vortex?
+Easty66 To reset the Vortex, plug in the battery (and hopefully the rear LED’s will come on) and push the button on the top right of the LED board for 8 seconds. Resetting the quad will return the Vortex to the factory state in PPM rx mode. You'll then need to run through the normal setup process.
I also advise if you have not to update the firmware on the Vortex to the latest one, this can be done using ImmersionRC tools. Hope that helps!
hey ive got an atom and im trying to rebind it with my at9...are the steps any different?
Nickos White The steps are generally the same. Make sure the receiver and transmitter are bound together and in S.BUS mode. Next have your assigned Aux switches (flight, arm, etc) set. Power up the Atom and the TBS Powercube will have you go through the RC wizard setup - similar to the Vortex.
ive got the same transmitter, i cant get my quad to arm once it blinds to the transmitter...how do you arm your quad?and would i change settings in betaflight or on the transmitter itself?
Changing how arming is done is configured in betaflight/cleanflight. By default, the left throttle stick (mode 2) is used for arming when you bring it down all the way to the bottom left (disarm to by bringing it to the bottom right).
It is recommended these days to assign an aux switch to arm and disarm (you would set that up in betaflight after pick your switch on the AT9).
@@MatrixWriter thanks bruh.i going to try it out in the am,ive never setup a drone through beta or cleanflight..anyway chance you could walk me thru it step by step?
@@nickodadon1328 No problem, I'll do my best to help you out if needed if you are unable to find anything online. Feel free to email me which is located on the About section of my channel.
@@MatrixWriter i emailed you bruh.....
@@MatrixWriter i emailed you....
Will that receiver work as PPM as well?
Yes it will do PPM - if the LED color is red, it is in PPM mode, otherwise blue/purple is S.BUS.
I highly recommend S.BUS over PPM for lower latency and simplicity.
+MatrixWriter thanks. I know sbus is better, but I bought a lil rclogger brushless and it will accept ppm only. So I'm figuring out which radio to buy and I'm considering the radio link. I like the price, but it doesn't seem like many people are using them.
+brian s No problem. I see what you mean by your setup now. On the receiver (R9D), double click the bind button to change the modes. For smaller and lighter setups, you can remove the casing.
For the price point and features, RadioLink AT9 is not a bad system, great entry level system for the amount of features. For even more advanced users and customizability and features, I would recommend the FrSky Taranis. I use the Taranis for long range FPV and such. For quick flights and testing I use the the RadioLink. RadioLinks are actually pretty popular overseas and China. Just not in the States.
Hope that helps!
do it have a micro usb
There is no micro USB with the AT9 radio system. The Vortex 250 Pro does have micro USB.