1995 Ford F-250 4X4 Ignition Switch Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- This video details the troubleshooting process I went through when diagnosing the binding ignition switch concern in the start position. During troubleshooting, other issues were found with the shift tube bushing causing the gear selector lever to be loose.
Interestingly, what I thought was the problem (a worn ignition switch) turned out to not be the problem at all. The problem with the key binding in the start position is within the actuator rod mechanism. These parts were lubricated as an initial corrective action, but that didn't solve the problem.
The loose gear selector lever and binding ignition switch, though annoying, aren't big enough issues at this point to invest more money to correct. So I left things as they were so I can drive the truck and focus on more pressing maintenance issues. I will research sourcing these parts and will likely complete these repairs at a later date if these issues become annoying enough.
Lastly, the smoke and burning smell coming from the cluster/column area was investigated and ultimately determined to be a failed component (a MOV) on the speedometer board which isn't critical to gauge or vehicle operation. Like the ignition switch/gear selector lever concern, this issue can wait until I can source the replacement part or repair the part myself at a later date.
I keep these videos real and what you see is what you get with no editing. Sometimes, even after good troubleshooting, you're faced with a decision to either take things a step further and complete the repair or pick your battles and attack the issues later. This is one of those occasions. There are other items I need to address with this truck first so I will likely circle back to address the above items at a later date. You can't always fix everything all at once. (9/20/2012)
The Discoloration on the connector plug is a sign of getting hot at some point.Great video. Thanks. Helped me.
That happened to me with my '87 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. When I turned the blower on high, I'd start to smell that classic electrical burning smell. I replaced the ignition switch and everything works like new.
Excellent video, great video shots. I have the same exact problem, I''m not a mechanic and your video lead me through the breakdown process. After removing everything I replaced the ignition switch and no change - I replaced the Key ignition and no change. The key turns and pushes the bar through the shaft and pushes the ignition switch but not enough to start the engine. I have ended up taking the ignition switch off the frame and that's how I start and stop the van by moving the bar.
I dont play games
Good job locating that burnt up trace. I have found a lot of burnt connections on the back side of the plug connections.
Capacitors especially like to blow. After years of storing energy, time takes it's toll. Easy to replace on the circuit board. Know how to solder, save some money and have at it.
Regarding that bushing on the shifter:
If I remember correctly on my 96 Ford truck I ended up just reversing that bushing. So it could not slide down and out anymore.
Take the retainer bracket all the way off, reverse the bushing so the flanges on the top side and then reinstall the retaining bracket.
Anyone reading this keep in mind that I'm trying to go from memory cuz that was several years back.
I know it was a simple fix but I think that's what I did.
You have a gift of gab and enjoyed video wish you showed the way to put in the little contact
for key chime
You need a multi meter to check the value on the electrolytic capacitor (the can one) and the black round capacitor. They are measured in microfarad (uf). I would buy a Sprague Atom electrolytic capacitor to replace that cheap one. Make sure when you replace the electrolytic capacitor it is of equal voltage value. If you buy a electrolytic capacitor of lower voltage it can blow-up and ruin the circuit board.
Don't know if this helps... But I got the point of dropping the ignition switch, and found the anxuater bar is double action. Mine broke just before the secondary rods contacts the ignition switch . With out it, turning my key won't stop the engine because the anxuater bar won't return the ignition switch back to off position.
How to tell if your is broke...( Batt disconnected )drop the ignition switch module. Look where the ignition switch slides into the anxuater bar. Turn your key from off, to start position, then back to off. If the bar doesn't return you've got a broken anxuater bar.
Great explanations for everything. Thanks!
Great video and good trouble shooting I have somewhat similar problem with my truck f250 v10 99 but and I also feel like someone has messed with the ignition and stuff because I canturn on the truck with a metal key no transponder but not everything turns on like the radio turns on and off by itself wipers and windows and some of the cluster lights turn on and off like if had turn off the truck. But thanks to your video I can see were almost all the components are at making it easier for me to look for the problem!!
Try replacing the turn signal cluster it will probably cure the wiper problem. Try inspecting the cluster plug ins where the wires attach to the gauges
Great job thank -You ! Good refresher on a job One struggles with when they own a late model Ford F-250 truck.
The seatbelt chime in Ford trucks can be turned off.
All you got to do is read the manual.
There's a sequence of turning the ignition on and unplugging the seatbelt Buckle several times to turn the seatbelt warning off.
Agree...I switched the key switch because my key wouldn't spring back on it's own after the engine started. Gotta be the spring built into the lower switch...
When you replaced the key switch did it fix the issue. I am having the same issue on my 94 Bronco. Thinking about replacing it
I'm at the 1:59 mark of your video. My 1995 F250 is randomly stalling out after warm up. None of the power lights are coming on. The truck cools down, it starts right back up. sometimes it is a minute later it stalls out. Sometimes it is a hour.
Really a great video!
Follow up on starting the engine with these starter switch. I took a closer look and have come to the conclusion that there's one bar that moves in and out by turning your key and if you turn the key forward to start the engine it pushes forward and hits another bar that's in the starter switch. Unfortunately the bar on the key side doesn't pull the bar back when you release the key from the starter switch. So the problem must be in the starter switch so it will bounce back.
BEST VIDEO I EVER SAW. THX.
You may or may not see this but I saw a guy fix that burnt out trace and the components in that corner (it may have been you :)) but that is a diode and a resistor and a capacitor in that little circuit I don't remember what it controls. Those speedometers just swap out with no programming the mileage is in the computer so when you switch it out you still have the same mileage
Awesome video. TYVM for posting.
While turning the key in my 97 Crown Vic, there is some binding and I'd like to figure out how to lube those internals. I wonder if the steering column itself can be taken apart for purposes of lubrication or repair of the actuator "bar".
one thing to expect with these trucks is that coulomb and everything around it . after all kinds of small fixes and tweaks to modify thing my shiftier tube snapped and at that point i decided that hell with it i got tired of taking out the radio ,glove box, ac ducts and so on to get deep on the coulomb that i snapped and took the sawlzall to it and cut it in half were that natural line around the instrument cluster so i only take one side off. only down side is it radells off road allot over 55+
Broken actuator. The clamshell (Black plastic) is on the wrong side of the barrell switch.That should be installed before installing black clamshell.
I got a another speed cluster at the junkyard and my old mileage came up when I plugged it in, it is not like the newer ones.
Awesome Man, I appreciate it!!!!
very articulate video, great
It even smells burnt...nice one sr
Just FYI anybody who has this problem with a speedometer can go to the wrecking yard and get a speedo and replace it and the mileage will remain the same because the mileage is stored in the computer not the speedometer cluster.
I had to replace the connector on the steering column with a Ebay one.
My truck just got harder to start then i got absolutely nothing no electric, no cranking, nothing im hoping its this switch cas its the only thing besides a major grounding issue that causes all these issues that ive found
Oh damn you're still having problems? I just replaced the ignition switch starter and nothing is working!!! I check everywhere why and gave up!!! I even tried positive battery to starter and nothing happens!!! I wonder if the truck thinks someone is trying to steal it???
great video, very informative.
Sounds like your PSOM. Mine did that. Burnt some Caps.
what happened with the key not springing back from the start position ?
Did you replace the lock cylinder itself ? I've had to replace mine NUMEROUS times in my 1984 Bronco, 1986 Bronco 1988 f-600, and now my 1996 Bronco.
good video very detailed
How does the ignition cylinder push the metal rod sticking out of the top of the switch housing?
Until I can figure out what the problem is as to why the key won't turn the key far enough to start the engine or why when you turn the key off that the bar doesn't come back and shut the engine off. For now, it's a temp fix for an old van. I have a 1996 Ford E250 Van. If you come up with something as to how to fix it please let me know.
I'm a little confused.... Wouldn't the switch only work if it's plugged in? It's not going to turn anything on if it's not hooked to it...
It start and ran fine while holding the key in "start" then after replacing the new part, it's just dead!!! I even part the bad part back on and nothing happens too!! Screw that going to junkyard hahaha!!!
I've got a 2007 F150 and when I start the engine the tack and other gauges stay off for about 10 to 15 seconds - then they all start working - the engine runs and I can rev it a little but the readings on the gauges don't read for a short time - have you ever seen something like this? thanks.
I wanted to ask another question - at around 22:34 on your video you show the starter shaft that pushes down towards the ignition switch when your turn the key clock wise. Mine turns but doesn't push down enough to hit the starter switch and when you turn the key counter clockwise you would think that it turns the engine off but it doesn't pull the starter switch back at all. Any ideas what could be wrong?
The ignition switch can cause all kinds of problems - no starts- no dash light so on - For example mine went bad and caused me to have no turn signals - I had 4ways and everything else just not the turn signals.
Very true. There are several sections in this switch and some of them carry high currents. When they fail, very strange things start to happen as parts of it work while others don't.
Is the connected what makes it cit off also
Apologize
for that sloppy comment. We have much to discuss
more tree service 63129.
I'm having similar issues with my 1990 Ford F150, but it started with, when the vehicle was in park, if I moved the steering wheel, it would shut off. Later, sometimes when I start it, the starter remains in the 'start' mode, like it cycles, trying to start, even if it IS running, or if I shut it off and remove the keys, it keeps cycling. I have to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to get it to reset, I think its my whole ignition switch. Thoughts?
Don't know if there is an ignition relay in that truck but it sounds like a relay. Could be that plastic piece is broken or almost broken leading to thje switch sticking in the start position
I had a f 150 that had a bad electrical connector for the tilt wheel column. Ford knows about this problem.
what's the price written on it
Had me interested up to the point I figured out that this guy is a novice. Anyone who has been around automotive repair for any amount of time, knows that Electrical parts once installed are Non returnable. He should have left the new one in.
I take them back anyways. It’s an easy way to trouble shoot a problem.
I need one for a 90
lincoln town car
I meed one for a 90 Lincoln town car
The reason that whole problem starches because the ignition switch in the HGH to melt down in the capacitors in the protection you’re welcome
I cant see the video!
Why didn't u cut that tape out the way darn
yea video is still messed up.
Lock cylinder
put some oil on the key
the video is still scrambled.
Great thorough info. Thank you so much.