I started with primitive methods of refining and using clay, then into primitive pottery technology, then sculpting faces, making bricks, now I am here. I have tried them all. Your next. Thankyou for the presentation.
as far as winning a kiln. I built my own kiln(mud/clay-diy *cob), and burning wood I have managed 870c. Enough to lightly vitrify my native clay. I am working on my next cob kiln to make charcoal, or fire pottery. Im banking on being able to hit 1150c to 1350c by using charcoal and a little forced air in this version(beyond cone 6). I only mention it because if you dont have a kiln, you can really do alot with mud/wood. With a bit of knowledge. And its generally more plentiful then banknotes. :)
@@jsmythib wow, thanks for that. I do have a kiln now, I bought it second hand and had to rebuild the top and base. I have fancied having a go digging my own clay, one day maybe. Glad you found it useful.
Very detailed explanation. I had read directions on how to do this in a ceramics magazine. The article left me with questions. Thank you for answering all those questions and giving some great tips!
Paul, did you know that you can dry plaster moulds in a fan forced oven at 50C - 60C (no higher...makes it friable). The final part of the drying actually strengthens the mould by up to 30% (according to my research) extending its life. Just thought you might be interested.
I let my clay dry almost bone dry and it falls out. it's like when you have mud in shoes - it's best to let it dry and then it's easy to remove plus if you want to wash it after you've removed the clay, the leftover clay gets wet, turns to silt and just washes away.
I was just thinking that after the plaster has a chance to set completely, put the mold in the oven at 175f until the clay contracts/dries and pops out. Then rinse and a lite scrub. End theory. :)
@@jsmythib it actually doesn't take long to dry in the mold (as long as you don't live in a cold country :- ) ) Mine can be popped out even when they are leather hard which is what I do with other molds that I might want to manipulate, like making domes and then removing them and adding facial features to them. I don't wash out my molds as I think it deteriorates them and then they can't be used until THEY dry out. A damp cloth cleans out the clay in the mold but to be honest, I don't have much clay at all left in my molds.
I make a4 pages of printouts with ideas of things and laminate them, punch a hole in the top corner and fasten each subject together with a descriptive front page and have them hanging from hooks in my studio to just grab when needing inspiration
Thanks for the demonstration on how to make a mould. Next year I want to make a few hundred Thai Temple (Wat) tiles as I will be building a small Thai Sala in my garden. I already have a sample roof tile that I bought when last in Thailand and would want to use it as the "model" to be surrounded by plaster of Paris. Should I use a release agent on my tile, so the plaster doesn't stick to it when poured over the tile? Or would I be better making a silicone or epoxy mould rather than plaster?
Hi Robert, that sounds like a fun project. I would definitely use a release agent because the rigid tile will be bery difficult to remove. A firm silcone mould might be a better idea but it would need to be firm so that it doesnt distort when you push the clay in.
@@StudioLeatham Many thanks for your advice, I will probably use silicone as you suggest but make with a thick base and sides as recommended. I am 84 years old and will have to make about 1000 tiles for my scheme. Some have suggested that I won't live long enough but I am determined to hang on until I can make the Thai Sala. I have a kiln I started to make some years ago and I only have to fit the 9kW set of elements into it, make a fail-safe door and I can start "cooking" the clay tiles.. I have been to Thailand three times in my lifetime and loved it beautiful architecture, even though it is quite gaudy.
I am wondering about the plaster getting into the clay - - do you need to dispose of the clay you cut off and what about if it gets into the clay being used for the tile? I understand that plaster can explode in the kiln.
Hi there, if you do get plaster on the clay you remove it will only be a surface layer. It can be cut off a discarded but honestly, it is such a tiny amount.
Hi, I've never tried it but I've seen other potters use open topped slip cast moulds. It's the porosity of the plaster that dries the slip, not air. That being said, I think you'll get better results by using 'pottery' plaster - it's a bit harder and denser, I just used plaster of Paris.
@@StudioLeatham Thanks so much for the speedy response! I didn't know whether having it 'open topped' would be too far away from the plaster (for want of a better phrase) to dry it out. Thanks for the info and video :-)
Hi Sian, this is a ceramic tile and as such will take all sorts of glazes and oxides as decoration. It would need a second firing for any glazing. You could make floor tiles this way, once you have the mould you can pull as many tiles as you want.
@@StudioLeatham thank you for replying so quickly ...I have a small front loading electric kiln ...so would be making small batches ...I suppose I was concerned that terracotta would stand up to foot fall ... Many thanks again ...
I started with primitive methods of refining and using clay, then into primitive pottery technology, then sculpting faces, making bricks, now I am here. I have tried them all. Your next. Thankyou for the presentation.
as far as winning a kiln. I built my own kiln(mud/clay-diy *cob), and burning wood I have managed 870c. Enough to lightly vitrify my native clay. I am working on my next cob kiln to make charcoal, or fire pottery. Im banking on being able to hit 1150c to 1350c by using charcoal and a little forced air in this version(beyond cone 6). I only mention it because if you dont have a kiln, you can really do alot with mud/wood. With a bit of knowledge. And its generally more plentiful then banknotes. :)
@@jsmythib wow, thanks for that. I do have a kiln now, I bought it second hand and had to rebuild the top and base. I have fancied having a go digging my own clay, one day maybe. Glad you found it useful.
Very detailed explanation. I had read directions on how to do this in a ceramics magazine. The article left me with questions. Thank you for answering all those questions and giving some great tips!
Thank you Haley.
This is fantastic! Thank you so much!
Paul, did you know that you can dry plaster moulds in a fan forced oven at 50C - 60C (no higher...makes it friable). The final part of the drying actually strengthens the mould by up to 30% (according to my research) extending its life. Just thought you might be interested.
Thanks Dale, I'll try it.
I let my clay dry almost bone dry and it falls out. it's like when you have mud in shoes - it's best to let it dry and then it's easy to remove plus if you want to wash it after you've removed the clay, the leftover clay gets wet, turns to silt and just washes away.
I was just thinking that after the plaster has a chance to set completely, put the mold in the oven at 175f until the clay contracts/dries and pops out. Then rinse and a lite scrub. End theory. :)
@@jsmythib it actually doesn't take long to dry in the mold (as long as you don't live in a cold country :- ) ) Mine can be popped out even when they are leather hard which is what I do with other molds that I might want to manipulate, like making domes and then removing them and adding facial features to them. I don't wash out my molds as I think it deteriorates them and then they can't be used until THEY dry out. A damp cloth cleans out the clay in the mold but to be honest, I don't have much clay at all left in my molds.
Would a spray over the clay make it release easier?
I make a4 pages of printouts with ideas of things and laminate them, punch a hole in the top corner and fasten each subject together with a descriptive front page and have them hanging from hooks in my studio to just grab when needing inspiration
How super friggin awesome 👌
nice job ! thanx for the video
Great job
Could you spray mold release on the clay before pouring the plaster on and it would just fall out?
Hi Casey, you probably could use some mold release or even a quick spray of cooking oil. The plaster dries the clay so it comes out fairly easily.
ooh lovely video, thanks :o)
Thanks!!
But mailing more copy molds the dimensions Will be the same? It Will be better to make more copies from the first mold?
I used water based clay, you could use oil based for the original.
Thanks for the demonstration on how to make a mould. Next year I want to make a few hundred Thai Temple (Wat) tiles as I will be building a small Thai Sala in my garden. I already have a sample roof tile that I bought when last in Thailand and would want to use it as the "model" to be surrounded by plaster of Paris. Should I use a release agent on my tile, so the plaster doesn't stick to it when poured over the tile? Or would I be better making a silicone or epoxy mould rather than plaster?
Hi Robert, that sounds like a fun project. I would definitely use a release agent because the rigid tile will be bery difficult to remove. A firm silcone mould might be a better idea but it would need to be firm so that it doesnt distort when you push the clay in.
@@StudioLeatham Many thanks for your advice, I will probably use silicone as you suggest but make with a thick base and sides as recommended. I am 84 years old and will have to make about 1000 tiles for my scheme. Some have suggested that I won't live long enough but I am determined to hang on until I can make the Thai Sala. I have a kiln I started to make some years ago and I only have to fit the 9kW set of elements into it, make a fail-safe door and I can start "cooking" the clay tiles.. I have been to Thailand three times in my lifetime and loved it beautiful architecture, even though it is quite gaudy.
@@robertenglnad8029age is just a number, go for it.
How do you keep the tiles flat when firing? I’ve done some and they lift making them uneven 😢
Hi Tracy, I let them dry slowly on a rack so that air can get all around. Sometimes I will sandwich them between plaster board/dry wall sheets.
I am wondering about the plaster getting into the clay - - do you need to dispose of the clay you cut off and what about if it gets into the clay being used for the tile? I understand that plaster can explode in the kiln.
Hi there, if you do get plaster on the clay you remove it will only be a surface layer. It can be cut off a discarded but honestly, it is such a tiny amount.
Thank you
Love this video! Do I need to let my original tile dry or be leather hard before I pour my plaster?
Thanks Jessica. I poured it over the tile while it was still soft. If you let it dry too much it'll be much harder to remove.
@@StudioLeatham thx!!!!
Can you pour slip into this or would the absence of a 'lid' for the plaster mould hinder the drying? :)
Hi, I've never tried it but I've seen other potters use open topped slip cast moulds. It's the porosity of the plaster that dries the slip, not air. That being said, I think you'll get better results by using 'pottery' plaster - it's a bit harder and denser, I just used plaster of Paris.
@@StudioLeatham Thanks so much for the speedy response! I didn't know whether having it 'open topped' would be too far away from the plaster (for want of a better phrase) to dry it out. Thanks for the info and video :-)
Did you use oil-based or water-based clay?
Hi Sydnie, I used water based clay. I guess you could use oil based clay for the original.
Hi there ...just wondering what glaze could be used to give this tile a shine ? ...also what type of tile could be used for floors ?
Many thanks
Hi Sian, this is a ceramic tile and as such will take all sorts of glazes and oxides as decoration. It would need a second firing for any glazing. You could make floor tiles this way, once you have the mould you can pull as many tiles as you want.
@@StudioLeatham thank you for replying so quickly ...I have a small front loading electric kiln ...so would be making small batches ...I suppose I was concerned that terracotta would stand up to foot fall ...
Many thanks again ...
Make one using styrofoam.
Do you mean make the cavity mould or the original?
@@StudioLeatham The original, ...I guess you would need a hot wire cutter.