Thanks for this. It certainly is a lot harder than it looks. A couple of years ago I managed to turn some Morse 0 taper for my Sherline lathe. It took a couple of goes but it worked in the end. The rigidity of the lathe is paramount here.
Offsetting the tailstock is the best method for singlepoint cutting of tapered threads, though getting the tailstock back into alignment can be tiresome, it's quicker if you mark things prior to moving it over, and don't forget, tailstock towards you gives thinner end at tailstock and tailstock away gives a thinner end at the chuck
seems like it would be important to have the clock gauge exactly on center height to get the correct taper. You could try it, after setting the compound angle, lower the clock slightly and run it back forth again
If one adds a full taper attachment to his lathe does that interfere with putting in a DRO? Specifically the X axis of a DRO. At first glance on my Grizzly G4003G it would appear to require remaking the back shield as well as take up the space the scale would go on the lathe bed? I haven't seen anyone doing taper attachments on the smaller (12" x 36") lathes. I would be interested in your thoughts on the subject.
Soot from an appropriate flame worked well in my days on this kind of work.
Good video john. Not many people know how to machine tapers.
Thanks John excellent vid 👍👨🏻🏭
👍👍👍👍Good one John, keep 'em coming. Thanks for sharing
Great info John, keep'um coming..👍
Thanks for the tip of the tailstock off set direction
Thanks for this. It certainly is a lot harder than it looks. A couple of years ago I managed to turn some Morse 0 taper for my Sherline lathe. It took a couple of goes but it worked in the end. The rigidity of the lathe is paramount here.
glad you done this need to cut 1 for a tool thanks
very good. I learned a lot.
good tutorial again John,, keep it coming
Thanks John
Thank you, very useful
Offsetting the tailstock is the best method for singlepoint cutting of tapered threads, though getting the tailstock back into alignment can be tiresome, it's quicker if you mark things prior to moving it over, and don't forget, tailstock towards you gives thinner end at tailstock and tailstock away gives a thinner end at the chuck
Thanks
I have played so many pranks with a tub of blue. I am too old to be bothered now :-)
Nice video
Thankyou for the lesson! Enjoyed watching.
seems like it would be important to have the clock gauge exactly on center height to get the correct taper. You could try it, after setting the compound angle, lower the clock slightly and run it back forth again
My idea exactly. If you’re above or below center by literally anything you’re measurement will be wrong
as per brill
If one adds a full taper attachment to his lathe does that interfere with putting in a DRO? Specifically the X axis of a DRO. At first glance on my Grizzly G4003G it would appear to require remaking the back shield as well as take up the space the scale would go on the lathe bed? I haven't seen anyone doing taper attachments on the smaller (12" x 36") lathes. I would be interested in your thoughts on the subject.
The taper attachment would mean removing the dro scale
@@doubleboost Ouch! I was afraid of that. Thanks for the reply.
Yeah I can't get it to 0 out on my indicator. It's either too much or too little
hi John, do you have details drawing for rasing the head on your mill please? i have one like yours and need to raise the head please.
Email me please
Not last 😁
You are second to none!
@@shadowdog500 🙂
I’m disgusted
Why
Mate how are you zeroing it?