What do ACEA oil specs mean?
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- ACEA is the European trade body which represents the major car manufacturers. They also set specs for the continent, and these are important to understand because many of the OEM specs are based on the ACEA standards.
- Наука та технологія
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This channel is a gem! ❤
Your videos is a massive source of knowledge to me and I've gained a plenty of info, whether in base oils or engine oils and ect..
I've Just notice a small mistake in the table of ACEA specifications probably a typoo which is Phosphorus level of C4, as you know according to ACEA C4 the level of P is equal or lesser than 0.09 wt% (900 ppm).
Keep up the great work 👍🏻
Oh good pickup! Thanks.
I would really love to see a comparison of API SP, ILSAC GF-6 and ACEA C6. The purpose of these standards are similar, but are they the same tests and which is more stringent for a consumer.
Me too
I remember when I started learning about lubricant, I was trying to find ACEA equivalence in API and later concluded that they kinda move in paralel due to different emission regulation driving different additive combinations
Really appreciating
Glad to help!
Can you use 5w40 C3 Engine Oil instead of
5w30 A3/B4
(Mentioned by Car manufacturer website) ?
I find your video very informative but i have some question to ask. My 2.5l yd25tt diesel w/o dpf requires api cf or acea b1/b3/b4/b5, i would like to ask your advice if it’s okay to use api ck-4 or should I stick with acea ax/bx oil. Thanks
Is C5 suitable for Toyota/Lexus hybrids? I haven’t been able to find any information on it.
Thank you for the video. I did have a follow up (likely dumb) question, in regards to the ACEA C standards.
Would the ACEA C5 Standard oil be safe for both Gas and light duty Diesel engines?
I’m a bit new to the specifications for different oil types, so I apologies if I missed the answer within this video.
I have a 6 cylinder 3.0 Turbo Diesel, and the manufacturer seems to be very specific on oil brands. When taking a deep dive into the differences, I did notice one of the specs on an approved oil bottle had met the ACEA C5 standard.
To my knowledge, that was the only difference I could find.
Am I correct to assume this about the C5 oils?
VERY GOOD VIDEO, WOULD LIKE TO KNOW DO THE EXTENDED OIL DRAIN INTERVALS OF A5/B5 APPLIED IN ACEA C3 AS WELL?
Change every 7500 km
My 2010 civic 1.4 petrol calls for A3/B3 or A5/B5 but I used C3 cause I picked it up and didn't want to return it. It should be fine for now right? I'll get the right oil next time.
Hey! Great video, congratulations! One small question - what is the meaning of term "report"? e.x sulphur A3/B4 report. How do you understand this? Thank in advance :)
I think as in "measure and state the value".
what do you recomand A3/B4 or C3, knowing that the engine does support both?
Can I use 5w30 ACEA C2 for my ignis Zeta 1.3 diesel in place ACEA A5/B5 as company recommended manual?
Very good video! And I`m confused of course. Currently driving 2013 Volvo with D5 engine and DPF. Manuals, and official service say ACEA A5/B5. Volvo service is using Castrol Edge Prof A5 0W30. I tried several times to find more info about SAPS levels, but couldn`t succeed. So it`s strange at all. This Volvo is covering EURO Vb ecological category. Just wondering if A5/B5 is not DPF friendly why they recommend it?
A5B5 is not DPF friendly and thats why Volvo DPF replacement was service item that was supposed to replace in 120000 km service. Later that has been removed because no bode didnt replace DPF before it was mandatory.
So long story short, your DPF will be glogged due to A5B5 oil
How does an API CK-4 compare to an ACEA A5/B5, albeit, using a 5,000 Km change interval?
WHY DID ACEA HAVE TO REMOVE C1 ENGINE OIL? HOW IS IT NOT GOOD ENOUGH?
One question please. So my manual is saying use 5w30 A5/B5. If i care more about protection and less about fuel economy i can use A3/B4. Is that correct?
correct
I have a question would a A3/B4 fully synthetic oil in 5w30 be a good oil in a Ford 5.0 liter coyote engine with DOHC a 12 to 1 compression ratio direct injection and port injection? i'm looking for low carbon deposits I have some Castrol 5w30 Euro on the shelf was wondering if it would be a good choice?
So what did you do ? Did you try the euro Castrol? I'd love to hear your outcome.
Hey man i got a question. My dealer uses and ACEA C2 C3 5w30 for my 1.3 turbo Renault megane what does this mean for the protection it provides for my engine against LSPI
Why does C6 allow more wear than C5? The chart says C6 allows
Thank you for explaining, but I am confused about the ACEA C type of engine oil is for protecting cars with catalytic converter, because since 1990's most of the petrol cars would have catalytic converter, does it mean the cars newer than 1990's with catalytic converter should use ACEA C type instead of ACEA A/B type of engine oil? Does it mean ACEA A/B type engine oil shouldn't be used on cars have catalytic converters?
@Make Europe European Again Thank you very much for your answer👍🏻
I've removed the catalytic converter
Brilliant. What do you think about the Amsoil signature series? and why it does not have an API certificate?
Amsoil Signature Series lacks API certification because it exceeds the API allowable maximum limit for ZDDP. They have other grades that have API approval, but Signature Series is there to provide maximum engine protection, even if it costs them certification approval. I you read their website carefully, it says SS meets or EXCEEDS all API requirements. Emphasis on exceeds.
Something with really high ZDDP is often targeted at the consumer who might do some occasional racing / track days, or the classic car market. You'll generally find that if you're doing track days you'll run the car at higher load, and probably don't care so much about the catalyst, so will be happy to take the extra antiwear additives. Similarly classic cars have more aggressive cam designs and often run without catalytic converters, so high ZDDP works for that kind of user too.
@@craigg4246 I haven't looked at the details in a few years but Amsoil was selling an explicit "high zinc" motoroil along side, or as a branch of their signature series.
@@mytech6779 yes, it is called Z-rod. It is a very high ZDDP formula. Much higher than Signature Series, that already exceeds the API limits. This oil would be ideal for pre catalytic converter flat tappet cam style engines. While i don’t claim to know their precise ZDDP concentrations, Amsoil does say Signature Series has 75% more anti-wear performance than before, when they had API certification. Since the API limit is 800 ppm, I am assuming Signature Series now has 1400ppm. 75% more. I have also seen elsewhere, ZDDP benefits top out at around 3200ppm. This would likely be the concentration range for Z-rod?
@@craigg4246 Must have been a major change in the product line since I last inquired, they didn't call it Z-Rod (It may have been "for european engines" or something similar.) and I believe the signature was still API spec. Like I said it has been several years, maybe pushing ten now that I get thinking.
So which ACEA is better for engine wear protection?
How come some oils have both c2 and c3? They are similar but not the same. My car with a petrol, turbo, direct injection engine calls for 5w30 c2. Normally it is diesel oil but the car has gasoline particulate filter. So I use a c2/c3 oil. Any advantages or disadvantages of using an oil with both standarts?
FeelFree3
According to the table in the video, ACEA C2 has lower HTHS viscosity than C3 which means less engine protection.
is more TBN is good or bad thing.. is it expensive to add to the oil?
Unfortunately the answer is "it depends". Mostly it depends on the quality of the fuel. In diesel marine engines you'll find engine oils with starting TBNs as high as 70, but there's also a lot more sulphur in typical marine fuels. We don't just add more and more TBN to engine oils is it's unnecessary because they also contribute to ash. The cost is also variable depending on the type of TBN additive - Calcium overdosed detergents tend to be cheaper, Magnesium more expensive.
The Manual of my Hyundai Elantra 2024 Car - 1.6 Liter Engine - Calls for Fully Synthetic Oil:
in Middle East ( 5W30 , ACEA A5/B5) " Which Where I live "
in Other Regions ( 0W20 , API SN PLUS/SP or ILSAC GF-6)
Should I stick to:
(5W30 - ACEA A5/B5) What's Manual Recommend.
or
(5W30 - API SP ILSAC GF-6A, Dexos1 Gen3) New Shell Helix Ultra Made from Natural Gas if I'm not mistaken.
Thank you i enjoyed the topic as i have a weird issue with my car, the manual specifies a 10-40 oil acea a3 -2004 fiat 9.55535-s2 spec. - and i just now realise that a3/b3 is for non catalyst engines and -c- is for them. As my engine has a TWC- MPI + single fuel manifold FIRE 1,4 16 V. i should have used a -c3 - oil. So all the time for 15 years i was using the wrong product. The good is i change oil twice a year as i am in extreme weather, in summer 40 celcius and - 5 in winter. Unless i am wrong in my perception, thanks again i will switch to c3 ,by the way you all have a really good year from greece
if you dont have a DPF, you did well ignoring the S2 spec and going for A3/B3/B4. S2 spec is cancer
@@alwar5822 thank you good to know
why tbn in c3 less than a3/b4 ? how TBN number affects the c group ?
Generally TBN and ash are correlated with each other. Most overbased detergents contain metals and/or sulphur (as in Calcium Sulphonate) and therefore have a similar affect on catalysts as antiwear additives.
Please also do a video on the ACEA E series designations
Will do - I’m holding off at the moment because they’re supposed to issue an updated spec sometime in the next month or so.
@@LubricationExplained Thank you for your consideration.
Thank you. Recommended oil C2 0w-20. BUT also 5w-30 or 5w-40 meet handbook chart. I will sacrifice fuel economy for engine life and go with c3 as TBN of my favourite brand is way higher. Spoke to my franchised dealer and they use 5w-30.
Is there any risk for using a fully synthetic oil with specification ACEA C3 over a fully synthetic oil ACEA A3/B4 from experience point of view? Thank you.
#Follow
Emissions... Fuel efficiency, what about the most important for users, engine protection? "unsuitable for use in certain engines - consult vehicle OEM`s owner`s manual/handbook in case of doubt", all i will find in my owner's manual/ handbook is a donut showing : "API SERVICE SJ SAE 5W-30 ENERGY CONSERVING", how could i know if ACEA A5/B5 is suitable for my engine? The oil that i am using is showing : ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5, how could an oil have these 2 different norms all together ? oil in use : (Castrol Magnatec STOP-START 5W30 A5). Thanks.
Good question. So when I look up Castrol's Australia website, that particular product is ACEA A1/B1 (which is no longer a valid spec), A5/B5, API SN, and ILSAC GF-4. The API SN spec supersedes SJ, so you should be ok.
So a low HTHS oil is not a problem for older engines?
Just get oil with API rating because ACEA rating and API are different.
Can a C3 engine oil be used on A5/B5 recommended engine ?
Exactly my question
ff
I am having a very hard time trying to find out which is the better (newer) oil standard for my engine, compared to the factory reccomended one.
My engine is 2.2 JTS from Alfa Romeo 159. It is a naturally aspirated, direct injected, high revving (close to 7000 rpm), petrol engine, with timing chain. The factory reccomended oil is FIAT 9.55535-H2.
Always go with factory spec oil. Don't experiment with non-factory spec oil
@@larryc1616 I found the best oil for my engine. It satisfies both FIAT 9.55535-H2 and ACEA A3/B4 (which is specific standard for direct injected petrol engines). Selenia K. The non - Pure Energy model. It is very rare to find. They usualy only sell Selenia K Pure Energy, which is a different standard to Selenia K.
Funny at least here in the USA, as the emissions mandates on engine manufacturers have directly reduced fuel economy for decades. The current generation of [non-hybrid non-electric] fancy computer controlled commuter cars actually get the same or slightly worse fuel economy than the simple low cost carburated commuter cars of the late 80s.
NOx reduction in particular is known to be in direct opposition with efficient fuel burn, high combustion temps and lean mixtures increase NOx, lowering temperatures generally means lower static compression ratios, operating fuel rich, and larger engines[more mass and friction] due to reduced specific power.
NOx was mainly a problem when combined with high levels of unburned HC to for smog, which was primarily a problem for a few select urban areas with stagnant air conditions during a time period when many vehicles were tuned to operate rich of stochiometric for several reasons. In other places, at low altitudes, NOx is rather short lived as it dissolves in rain and acts as a plant fertilizer.
In before: Yes fleet level fuel economy has been superficially improved, I am making an apples to apples comparison of one class of vehicles where fuel economy has always been a primary feature. Fleet economy has mainly been manipulated by getting consumers to switch from large automobiles to extended cab light trucks and SUVs which are a loophole in the fleet economy calculation. Trucks are in theory a utilitarian vehicle that require a certain strength(mass and power) to do a particular level of work and so are a legitimate exemption to general fuel efficiency mandates. For business owners there is an accounting motive for selecting truck models with improved economy and this dominates the market in the larger sizes.
The issue is that the light end of this market is not dominated by those who actually need to perform work economically, rather it is dominated by many vehicles that are allowed to use this classification while clearly not having a utilitarian focus are used for little more than an over sized commuter car to pick up a bag of groceries.
Truth.
Read every single word and I disagree
i dont believe b7 will wear less than b4
i think saps ash could be etched chemically from car catalyser, platinum will be unharmed.
I'm probably with you there, but it seems like most consumers just want a "pour in" solution that will work with their vehicle. Hence lower ZDDP levels to protect the catalyst.
@@LubricationExplained i got your point. my cat is 780€, lambdas 120€ x2... but these are much cheaper than new engine.
that´s my idea behind going fullsaps, but i´m not saying everybody should follow this.
Would you guys use B4 instead of B5 engine oil for a car that asks for B5 for the "extra protection'?
What about the higher HTHS? Will it affect the engine or only the fuel economy?
hi! I'm facing a problem with one of my tractor. in 2007 my family bought a 10yo tractor that has a 6cyl turbo engine and now that I'm leading the business I started to do the maintenance on my own. Until 2017 they used a 15w40 Ambra ACEA E2 API Cf-4 (which is the one reccomeded by the owner's manual) , which contains a high % of Calcium. From that moment onward I switched to Mobil1 Delvac MX (mineral) which has ACEA E7/ API CI-4. Since then I had trobules of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust (especially accelerating) and I blamed the "high quality" oil that I introduced, which seems to have removed the internal encrustations formed by the Ambra oil. So I decided to go back to the reccomeded one trying the Motul (same spec as the Ambra) hoping that could solve the problem but it didn't. I talked to an engineer and said that I should be patient that once the engine "re-heal" himself doing hours and hours of work burning all the dirt in the combustion chamber, I sould solve this... My question is: really an oil change can cause all of this problems? Even though is compatible with the one reccomeded? I'm banging my head everywhere because I thought I could easily solve the problem. Other options are : 1 the turbo is gone (but why suddenly after an oil change?) 2 the injectors need to be cleaned... If it doesn't take too much of your time, Can you suggest me "the right way?" thank you so much if so, and congratulations for the channel, your'e a fantastic professor.
Wow! That is some question. There's a couple of things going on here - as you seem to have correctly identified, blue exhaust is usually excessive oil burn which means there's oil getting into the combustion chamber somehow. At a very basic level, it can only come from two locations - from above (oil down through the valve / valve guides) or from below (crankcase oil gets past the piston rings). It's worth checking the valve seals, but it would be highly coincidental if the valve seal failed at the same time as your oil change.
If the oil is getting past the piston rings it could be a number of things. 1 - one or more of the rings have failed. 2 - there's a ring that's stuck in it's groove somewhere. 3 - you have liner scuffing/scoring/polish. Any or all of these could either be failed components, or they could have always existed but been masked by deposits "filling the gaps" and were cleaned up by a more modern detergent package. If you're able to - a compression test should verify if the ring/liner seals are all still intact.
I'd say it's unlikely that the turbo is gone. When turbos fail they tend to do so in a pretty spectacular fashion.
If you have any more questions feel free to get in touch: lubrication.explained@gmail.com
The part I don't get relates to the A/B vs C catagories.
C categories are for cars with catalytic converters. Which is every non-vintage or non-electric car made since 1993.
But so often we see A5/B5 oil grades with a sticker saying for example, suitable for Renault car engines or Ford car engines.
Christ, Renaults and Fords have to have catalytic converters too - so why not run them on C grade oils ?
And don't tell us to ask our motor factors shop - all they want to do is sell the dearest oil that they happen to have from their supplier, whether it's right or wrong for our engines.
Iam just trying to change my oil man..
ACEA in full is what.
Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles
Sir can we put ACEA C3 oil in A3/B4 rated car?
Same query
Want your engine to sludge up like an American's? Then stick with API!