In this second part of the series, I will braze up the broken teeth sections and cut new gear teeth on the horizontal milling machine using a dividing head.
I had to have this type of repair done several years ago, and was charged what I thought was a very fair price. If I had seen this video first I'd have happily paid double what the machinist charged me! The time, machinery and just good old fashioned skills it took are outstanding. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Keith,I'm a 69 yr old woodworker and have been watching your channel and Adam Booth's channel for several months. I find the work you guys do fascinating to say the least. I just purchased a mini lathe to try my hand at machining. I believe that you are never too old to learn something new. You are truly inspiring. Thanks for the great videos and the time you dedicate to demonstrating these wonderful skills.
+Tom I Good luck with your new lathe! I think that you will find the work very satisfying. Like anything else, just get out there and practice and it becomes easier and easier!
+Tom I Good luck with your new lathe! I think that you will find the work very satisfying. Like anything else, just get out there and practice and it becomes easier and easier!
Just like to say thank you Keith for your clear explanation of what you were doing and why? As a retired engineer and machinist I've repaired a number of cast iron gears with broken teeth this way using Sif-Bronze rods and all of them have been fine. The back gear on my South Bend lathe that I repaired with Sif-Bronze rods about 55 years ago is still working well despite having had a lot of heavy use.
I must say i have never seen anyone fix broken teeth on a cast iron gear before. I would have thought it would have fractured and fallen out after the first couple passes. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for the useful information Keith and for the great videos. Two thumbs up
I didn't know gears can be repaired. By watching this video, it was extremely fascinating! I enjoy seeing vintage American machinery at work. Well cared for. Thank you Keith!
I love this video, Mr. Rucker really go through the whole setup at a perfect pace. Didn’t rush through anything. It reminds me of my first day at the machine shop class back in the 70’s where the teacher really spend the time to teach you right the first time. Mr. Rucker also has a very pleasant voice which is very good for a new student to listen to and if any school has him as a teacher, they should be super proud. Thanks for making this video sir.
I watched my grandpa brazing teeth on a caterpillar bulldozer driveshaft back in the 1960's and removing the excess with his lathe and cutting new teeth with his milling machine very similar to your method. Brought back a lot of memories of true craftsmanship and skill. Thanks for sharing!
I helped my grandfather repair a farm combine transmission gear one late night in the shop - it must have been 40 years ago. several teeth are damaged/missing. An arc welder, oxy/acc torch, bits of tool steel, lathe, angle grinder, and metal files - were the tools we used. As well as a couple pots of coffee. The repair lasted at least 3 days - when the expedited parts arrived from Chicago. As I remember the repair was time critical as we need to get the harvest done before the rains hit.
My father taught me how to braze. To do it right proper techniques need to be followed. I have repaired several gears with similar techniques. That was nearly a half century ago.
This was so informative. I love watching a machinist work on fixing broken gear. It allows me to see what my dad would of done when he worked at Grant Gear during WWII or at H.K. Porter in the 1960s both were in Boston!
Some fifty years ago, I was completing my apprenticeship on the electrical side of things. Where I worked held a fairly comprehensive machine shop, and one of the items was the indexing machine which I never found the time to watch or learn it's function. Some fifty years later, all is revealed. Thanks for the time!
Was a machinist back in 70’s and 80’s and then many shops went automated or closed down, mainly the latter so I went into where the demand was and that was in in heavy duty fitting. Chalk and cheese the difference you can imagine. Now I’m retired and it’s good to go back to a machining channel and virtually refresh my memory again.
Years ago I had to do a similar thing. A couple of different things: preheated the cast gear thoroughly and stood it up in sand, when it was filled the gear was completely covered in sand and left (I think it was left until the next day), also the filler was keyholed, which made for a very secure root for the teeth. Last I heard of the machine it was fitted to, it was still running fine after over ten years. Great to watch, thanks
Reminds me a little bit of woodshop class back in high school. We had a ton of old band saws, lathes, and drill presses that dated from the 1950s - 60s. But the planers, routers and table saws were much newer.
It is really astonishing how well the brazed material adheres to the surrounding cast iron! If no one had ever seen that done before you would be 100% sure that the whole plug of stuff would come out the first time you ran the horizontal cutter along it. Yet it doesn't - and when finished the new tooth is perfect! *Fantastic* stuff Keith!!! To be honest I kind of hope your pal _does_ send it back to you as I'd really like to see you fabricate the whole gear up from scratch now! Many, many thanks as ever!
Excellent craftsmanship... I'm ignorant on these procedures and I watched it out of pure curiosity. I'm impressed that the brass metal of the brazing method is capable of withholding the force applied onto it just like the other teeth which are cast iron.
Started my apprenticeship as fitter and turner then into toolmaking. This brings back fond memories of our training and the equipment used. ‘‘Twas many years ago, but still embedded in my mind. Great pastime and interesting video series. Well done.
More great work Keith. Thanks for the update on when it is time to take the plunge and redo the braze. That kind of lesson is going to save a lot of us from having to fix something else that got broke because "close enough" wasn't quite the answer.
+Dinxsy imagine i fhe heard it failed sometime in future, he would be second guessing all the time about that inclusion and if it started to make it weaker, it takes pride in your work to be good at it, and to at least know you did the best job you can do, rather than half a job.
Nicely done, Keith! I'm a wannabe machinist and I have read (and watched) a fair amount about dividing heads. However, the fundamental way in which the tooth count of the gear being cut combined with the reduction ratio of the dividing head AND the hole count of the dividing head index plate all interplayed with each other escaped me until now. Thanks for the instruction!
Nice job, Keith. Another very informative and well executed video. The closeups on the cutter doing the work were just great. I could watch this stuff all day long.....
@@VintageMachinery Many times I have wished that I could have a "fast forward" setting on the clock. Then I suppose it is like the guy in Catch 22 that tried to be bored all the time so he would live longer. Best to go with what God gives me. 😆
Dividing heads on a milling machine always seem to be a little intimidating when you first see them but, believe me, once you learn the way they work and the extreme accuracy that they have, you'll be wanting to cut gears in everything! You can even add a gear train to the end of the table, connected to the dividing head, so that the work turns as it's being cut to produce some really weird worms... Millers are the backbone of engineering in any factory.
Ohhh, Keith, feels so good, to hear the intro sound of Your work vids again.. Good success, and THX, even my 83 year old father learned a lot.. Greetz,
it always amazes me how much oil can be locked inside old cast iron.. you never think that it's actually somewhat porous until you start putting the heat to it and the oil starts seeping out. Man I miss brazing and welding.. I love the marshmallow like smell of most brazing fluxes... so good smelling (even though I don't eat marshmallows)
It isn't oil inside the cast iron coming out (there might be some in the very surface layer but not inside) nor as another comment suggested water "sweating" out of the metal. It is the moisture from the water that is a combustion by-product from the acetylene flame, hitting the cold surface of the metal and condensing. Exactly like water on the outside of a glass. If the flame was hydrogen the reaction would be 2x H2 + O2 = 2x H2O and the ONLY combustion products would be heat and water; Because it is acetylene the reaction is more complex and there's other by-products, but there's still plenty of water there to condense on a cold surface. There's nothing coming out of the glass when moisture from the air condenses on it and likewise there's nothing coming out of the metal when moisture from the flame condenses on it.
Sorry Tano. The combustion H2O from gas torches condenses at a much lower temperature than this gear would have been at the stage of preheat where bubbles and fluids were seen exuding from surface pores of the Iron's crystalline structure. Yes, when using gas welding, water does condense on the surface of a cold metal work piece for a mere moment before evaporating off. H2O can't condense on a surface with a temperature over 100 deg C. It is entirely possible that an absorbed mixture of H2O and oil was present within the Iron, which has lived as a gear in a lubricated machine for many years. The H2O and then oils would have formed vapour and pressure, which drove the mixture to the surface, where some vapour filled bubbles were visible, the dark fluid spread quickly before evaporating or oxidising. If the pores beneath the brazed area were still exuding fluids and gasses, the brazing material may not bond to the surface. A possible reason for the mentioned inclusion in the 2nd area, which required re-working? Check- Super Oilite bearings (an extreme example) preheating Iron components before welding
@@VintageMachinery Cast Iron contains a small amount of Graphite, to make the cast more fluidic during casting. It adds a hidden benefit in that it will absorb some oil/water into the cast part. The metallurgic term is hygroscopic, although of it's light oils that are absorbed. This is why cast gears don't require a lot of lubrication and steel ones do.
I would have preheated it a bit more than lay in the root pass with hard bronze. Than turn down the torch for more control. It the cast has a crack in it, you drill a hole 1/2 inch past the crack so when the cast expands the hole trapps the crack , Vee it out and lay in the bronze. To cool it down slowly bury the part in floor dry in a steel container. This process works well on engine blocks as well. The big thing on cast is to stress relief. otherwise if it cools to quickly it can crack right along side of the weld or thru the center. To stress relief run a needle gun, (slag remover gun) or even tapp it with a round end of a ball peen hammer until its a cooled somewhat.
Excellent work done. Most interesting to watch the work done by expert, and also explain technical information very well, it most useful for especially mechanical engineering personal, many many thanks thanks. My most lovely channel, also I am an engineer ( retired)
Ha! Just saw your video! I learned these repairs in my early 20's, and I'm more than twice that now. I did "big gears" in Cast Iron that were about 20" in diameter, and the old expert I learned from was a guy named Bob. The largest "steel" gears I did were on "paper roll clamps" made for Cascade - I did those in 8620, and actually "hand machined" those with a handmade template I would use with "blue" painters oil paint. Never had a problem. Took a few hours to fix a few teeth. Piece of cake with someone with patience. Also used a 4" hand grinder with a 120 grit sanding disk and a hand file with "safe edges" . (The gear was worth more than $4k back in the mid 80's). Repaired for less than $400. It's amazing what the hand and eye can do with "blueing". Never had a failure. I found my old template sitting in my tool box the other day. Brought back fond memories when "hand skills" were still a thing.
I learn a little more every time! An old mill operator told me a long time ago that a mill was the only machine that could reproduce itself. This was way before CNC came along, at least out at the DuPont shop. I just like to watch how it's supposed to be done. I just saw the machines already running there and no setup at all. Mighty interesting. You are a good teacher, like I said!
Holy smokes, I really like this machine. When he extended the arbor support shafts I was impressed. I been around many machine shops but this one is a first for me. Really cool.
Always good to Watch the Master At work keith. Ive been off the Air for about 7 Months moving from one end of the Country to the other, Finally Got My Computer up and running. Plus almost finished building my New Mobile Machine Shop (20 Ft Shipping Container) Which ill get some Photos Done Soon and put them Up. Dave from Australia
How could anyone give you thumbs down? Could they be jealous? Shame on them.Just for that I had 6 of my friends come to give you more thumbs up. Excellent work as always! Thanks for the time you devote providing these videos for all to learn from.
Hello Keith, I didn't have a clue how you made that new teeth but after this video now I know how to repair teeth. Not that I could do it myself but I understand how it works so again a very interesting video. Looking forward to the next one and many greetings from Roel !
Why can't we still have professionals like this instead of buying crapola Made in China that you'll have to replace in no time. Sigh, Keith - we need more of your kind in this world. Awesome video! Thank you! :)
The reason why we don't have any professionals out there is my personal reasons. One, we are not recognized as professional machinist or qualified artisans in my country and the world, secondly we are paid the worst salary ever but yet we are still doing machining and thirdly today it is all about qualification and papers and not about the passion we have for doing what we love doing. Younger generation are more status driven. I will not change my trade for anything in this world because it keeps me alive.
I always have to smile when I hear these machinists talk about their imperial sizes, just keeping it as complicated as possible instead of going metric 😉😉😉
I GOT INTO WATCHING YOU THROUGH WATCHING MY FAVOURITE, ABOM HE MENTIONED YOU SEVERAL TIMES SO I TRIED YOUR VIDEOS, REALLY AM ENJOYING BOTH OF YOUR CONTENT, GREAT TO WATCH AS WE ARE ON LOCKDOWN FOR THE SECOND TIME, THANK YOU BOTH.BOB U.K. ENGLAND.
I once welded a new tooth (the original was broken completely off) using only GMAW wire on the base of a Telelect pole digger. The crew had been using the boom to wiggle the poles loose in the ground, instead of the correct way. Worked great, never saw that truck again.
Excellent video as usual. Back in the sixties we seemed to do a lot more brazing than we do now . We always seemed to have a lot of worn machine shafts that we built up with braze and then turned back down to fit a bearing. I guess the throw away generation has gotten away from those kind of repairs. Anyway, thanks for another educational video.
+Jim Pritz everything is parts now, not repairs, it was always shimming, casting new white bearings and scraping them, i think machines got too advanced and tolerances, they work better when new, but are more fussy, the olderstuff more unrefined but can be made to last forever.
+Jim Pritz I agree Jim I think the reason is that with CNC machines it's cheaper to chuck up a blank and have the machine cut it rather than pay someone around 20 hours for three hours to make one. With a CNC machine you can pay him 20 bucks an hour to make three. Everyone wins the company makes a small profit, the machinist gets a job and to watch them being made, the consumer gets the part cheaper, and the recycle yard gets the scraps. But yep if you have the skills and the time by all means recycle the part, for fun or if you need it and you don't have the time to wait fix it. I run across this situation all the time at work, usually with just find a substitute part or have one made. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
+Jim Pritz The sad truth is that companies do research to find out how long something should last so that the majority of the customers would feel like they got their money's worth and still be come back and buy from them again. Then they design their product to fail around that same time. Nobody wants to make something that will last forever - no repeat business that way. Engineered obsolesce.
I hope you never start thinking this video stuff is getting old or that we don't want to see something you're making because it's too mundane, I could watch you everyday, whatever you're working on.
+Shane K its better to see something twice because it needed doing, than have to force a video, and that would show in you, ive seen other channels fall over this way
At the machine shop I worked at in the 70s, we would drill and tap that gear. Then screw into two 1/4 bolts, cut of the heads, then braze that whole area. The bolts would be machined down, with the brass, but the bolts gave that tooth gave it strength the brass alone could not provide.
BEAUTIFUL JOB ... I worked my whole life in job shops as a machinist repairing things like this and others and making new machines as well. There are not many of us around today that do this type of work, HELL .. they don't even repair shoes any more. God love you Sir.... NICE VID
Thank you - I am sure that you could probably teach me a thing or two with all of that experience. It is getting harder and harder to find old school guys to learn from anymore. I am at least trying to do my part to preserve what I have learned over the years!
I don't know the first thing about any of this but it's still incredibly interesting to watch. I was surprised to see what looked like some type of outgassing occuring when heat was applied. Didn't know that could occur on such a gear. Regardless, this was very rewarding to watch and see the finished repair.
This video is making me jealous. What makes it much more fun is when they bring you 2/3rds of the gear in pieces and say make a new one. Or bring you something incomplete in pieces that has been in the ground for 80+ years and say make a new one. These old machines are not the most accurate things in the world, but good enough for government work. Fond Memories.
My father welded up two pieces of cast iron with nickel rod. He bought some playground sand from Lowes. Put some sand in a box laid the part in, then covered it with the rest of the sand. Works great for cooling. Just make sure the sand is dry.
Beautiful video, Keith. I look your videos, very happy. Because what you're doing, that's what I learned lancer, the fitter (industrial mechanic specializing in industrial engineering). Greetings from Germany.
Plastic gears in auto ac blend door solenoids have lasted years after drilling three holes and inserting wire to repair broken teeth . If cracked not so much. Great info. Ive used brasing for repairs often but may have shied away from for cast gears. Will have to have another look at my lathes thread cutting drive set to reestareestablish the failures chances with this solution. Also broke some teeth off of chain driven industrial paper shredder that could be reproduced with end mill. They were not the best anvils I've tried. Everything else that I've broken were spiral gears that have been available and with the added difficulty, torque, friction, and speed involved would consider some of the other options you mentioned. Going after dimensions to grind a cutter wheel right now.
Hi Keith, Another great job! It's been my experience that a braze on cast iron is probably as strong as or stronger than the cast iron. The main reason being that the bronze is not as brittle as the cast iron. I've repaired a lot of broken exhaust manifolds and never had one come back.
+Jim Kodysz That has been my experience as well. I have brazed up a bunch of cast iron parts over the years and I have not had one come back to me in many years. I also see a lot of old repairs that are still holding strong!
i machined an axel shaft for a fwd tractor and cut the splines on a bridgeport vertical mill,i sharpened a hs tool bit to fit the splines and cut'em,fit like a glove when i took it off to check the fit
great job buddy , love your work ! maybe too much heat ,smaller tip maybe ! I would use NI rod , but I stick weld , I weld alot ! Been a certified pipe welder for years , thanks for all the great videos
Nice Job Keith I always learn something from you. Personally I think I would have cut a slot and brazed in a cast iron blank filling up both sides and then cut it. But you never know maybe the two metals during use could have produced a hairline crack. All in all It looks like a great repair, don't forget to ask Hecktor for an update for us. Best Wishes and Blessings Keith
Great job Keith, That,s the same way I do my broken teeth on a gear with that said it will last for years to come. Thank you for your great work, Stay safe
Keith, another trick for slow cooling and insulating the work is to bury the part in fly ash, the fine wood ash from a wood stove. I have annealed parts and they will still be warm to the touch after 8 Hrs. with this method, nice slow cool down!
Keith, I enjoyed the gear tooth repair video. Always fun to watch someone else work. LOL Spent my day making a slot plate for my Greenerd #3 Arbor press. I made the plate out of 4140 PH. Now I can use the press to broach a keyway in the new universal joint for the Oliver #510 drill sharpener I continue to restore. You may recall from the pictures I sent you a while back. Good on you Keith, Harvey from Nebraska
+binks166 Very nice! My advise to anybody who likes these videos is to just get out in the shop and do something - anything! Nice to hear that you are doing some restorations. I remember the photos you sent!
+CornishMiner It was obvious once I cut some material out - you could see the inclusion inside. I really thought it was just where I did not build the braze up high enough at first.
Also, the one new tooth seemed a bit thinner than the original ones (38:03). Maybe just a visual perception anomaly in the video and angle but in going back to the video I still see it. This doesn't take away from my appreciation of the work especially since it was redone to a better finish.
Nice job, Mr Rucker. I think modern folk might not realize, that restoring broken gears off old Victorian m/chines was commonplace in years gone by. All kinds of gears & sizes some light loading,and some very heavy. It was not possible to go to anywhere & get a 'spare or a new' one, and the Lathes, Milling m/machines , & you name it + Agricultural M/chines were enormous & tremendously expensive, as you well know- getting a gear fixed 'with a specific process' commensurate with the power load the teeth had to survive, was well known. I was apprenticed to Maudslay Motor Co' in England..UK. in the 1950's & saw this stuff often. Brazing was for light loads, Slave teeth made from spheroidal cast iron were *set in*, where heavy loads req'd. I saw gears 100 to 150 yrs old mended in 'Black country' the heart of Midlands of England. For ref: Henry Maudslay (22 August 1771-14 Feb' 1831) was an English machine tool innovator, tool and die maker,and the inventor.who is considered a founding father of machine tool technology. His inventions were an important foundation for the Industrial Revolution. Maudslay's particular contribution being,the invention of a metal lathe to cut metal, (I was told 1796) & the " 1st Micrometer ",{with 40 TPI..about 1800 AD},to cut at .001" which enabled later, the manufacture of standard screw thread sizes, which then allowed & created interchangeable parts & again thereafter, the development of mass **production.To** continue Inverted *Woodruff cutters* were specially made for heavy load gear mends. A Woodruff key ( I think you USA guys have a diff' name) was a dovetail slip of metal to anchor a gear to its shaft..Some which were of acceptable size,were then used ( or if not,specially made ) The Grandson of Mr Woodruff was my boss in the M/chine shop where I worked, making parts for the famous RED LONDON BUSES' yes they were made at Castle Maudslay.. I worked on at least 100. To continue,The gear to be mended,had the broken tooth & often the next tooth as well, to be safe,milled away ( carefully observed size that created no weakness ) and a slave section made & inserted [ Gear heated- slave Frozen ] thereafter milled as per you did. If of interest Chk out .'Fred Dibnah' an English steeplejack ( climbed mill chimneys 100.& 200 ft high without a safety harness ) He also built a Victorian style workshop in his back yard- & restored old Steam rollers, Traction Engines,& parts for clients with problems. Amazing stuff. I admire your craftsmanship Keith & your dedication to detail..Kind Regards. { Only stumbled on you thro' lockdown } .
Hi it’s stacie! Awesome job Keith! I love watching stuff like this! The teeth turned out really well and I love the humor too! Thanks for a great video!
This is Machine Repair 101. I did this with a 12" gear that drove a carousel when I was a kid. Before I formed the teeth I drilled tapped and screwed in steel pins to reinforce the bronze. Then i built up the teeth with a bronze rod heated with an arc torch powered by a Lincoln stick welder. After the thing cooled i shaped the teeth with a few coarse tooth files. All this was at a small amusement park in Guilderland NY during the 1950's to 1960's. It was built by my step father and, after I was 8 yo, maintained and operated by me. Anybody remember The Carolyn Road? I miss the shop but I do not miss the drunk.
Weelll, I gotta say Keith is a pretty damn good and uncommon name. My father has been a machinist since 'He' was young, And I've always had interest, I've only had a few chances to use machining machinery. A belt driven 3 speed lathe that I am told was once part of an assembly line of multiple same lathes (Now with an AC motor strapped to it) and a CNC mill with the "CNC" portion broken. I really enjoyed this video, No favoritism! :). I think I will check out some more. PS. if your father's name is "Mark"... *mind blown*
MG makes a cast iron welding flux used with cast iron rods, it is MG240F, used with a acetylene. I bought it but have not had a chance to use it. A friend of mine that owns his own machine shop and a welding shop both said it was a great way to weld cast iron on smaller parts. The rods are like brazing rods but they are square, the number of the rods is MG240 if anyone is interested. I am not trying to say there was anything wrong with brazing the gears, just sharing the info.
Its not the metal sweating. It is moisture in the combustion by- products of the acetylene flame condensing on the (originally relatively cold) surface. Think a chemically more complicated** version of: 2 x H2 + O2 = 2 x (H2O) **more complicated because the acetylene burning is more complicated chemically than straight hydrogen, but it is a similar reaction which produces water as one of the by-products.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Hardly working that wheel cutter. At that slow feed rate it sounded like most of the teeth were just along for the ride!
absolutely beautiful! so is this how you would create a new gear. ..one cut at a time.? Seems a very laborious but fascinating process. I could watch this for hours.
+k1mgy This is one way of making a new gear, but for mass production, they use a machine and tooling called a "gear hob" that greatly speeds things up. The gear hob is not practical to set up for just a couple of gears though, so for a one-off job like this, most would just cut them one at a time....
When trimming this gear I suggest setting the cutting tool against the cast iron and setting a zero for both the side and the diameter. Then back off the tool and start the machine. Advance the slide toward the zero to face the side of the gear. Cut the diameter in a similar manner. Then hand file the gear teeth. I would not bother setting up the mill unless most of the teeth were stripped.
Where the heck do you fabrication machinists hide at? I'd love to have a local fabrication machine shop to go to for odd projects but all I can find are automotive shops. I should have been a machinist. I find it absolutely fascinating. Thanks for sharing this stuff.
I love it when someone shows old school skills because it's complex, it works, and is amazing to watch and learn! Thanks man!
I had to have this type of repair done several years ago, and was charged what I thought was a very fair price. If I had seen this video first I'd have happily paid double what the machinist charged me! The time, machinery and just good old fashioned skills it took are outstanding. Thanks for sharing.
What kind of machine did the gear come out of it I may ask?
@@2jpu524 A marine gearbox from a small yacht. Never had any further trouble with it.
Hi Keith,I'm a 69 yr old woodworker and have been watching your channel and Adam Booth's channel for several months. I find the work you guys do fascinating to say the least. I just purchased a mini lathe to try my hand at machining. I believe that you are never too old to learn something new. You are truly inspiring. Thanks for the great videos and the time you dedicate to demonstrating these wonderful skills.
+Tom I Good luck with your new lathe! I think that you will find the work very satisfying. Like anything else, just get out there and practice and it becomes easier and easier!
+Tom I Good luck with your new lathe! I think that you will find the work very satisfying. Like anything else, just get out there and practice and it becomes easier and easier!
Just like to say thank you Keith for your clear explanation of what you were doing and why? As a retired engineer and machinist I've repaired a number of cast iron gears with broken teeth this way using
Sif-Bronze rods and all of them have been fine. The back gear on my South Bend lathe that I repaired with Sif-Bronze rods about 55 years ago is still working well despite having had a lot of heavy use.
I must say i have never seen anyone fix broken teeth on a cast iron gear before. I would have thought it would have fractured and fallen out after the first couple passes. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for the useful information Keith and for the great videos. Two thumbs up
+Larry De Silva This is a trick that has been used by many people over the years and it works pretty well.
I didn't know gears can be repaired. By watching this video, it was extremely fascinating! I enjoy seeing vintage American machinery at work. Well cared for. Thank you Keith!
+Kurdt M Thank you for watching!
I love this video, Mr. Rucker really go through the whole setup at a perfect pace. Didn’t rush through anything. It reminds me of my first day at the machine shop class back in the 70’s where the teacher really spend the time to teach you right the first time. Mr. Rucker also has a very pleasant voice which is very good for a new student to listen to and if any school has him as a teacher, they should be super proud. Thanks for making this video sir.
I watched my grandpa brazing teeth on a caterpillar bulldozer driveshaft back in the 1960's and removing the excess with his lathe and cutting new teeth with his milling machine very similar to your method. Brought back a lot of memories of true craftsmanship and skill. Thanks for sharing!
My grandpa was a machinist and growing up i used to watch him do repairs like this on old farm equipment all the time
I helped my grandfather repair a farm combine transmission gear one late night in the shop - it must have been 40 years ago. several teeth are damaged/missing. An arc welder, oxy/acc torch, bits of tool steel, lathe, angle grinder, and metal files - were the tools we used. As well as a couple pots of coffee. The repair lasted at least 3 days - when the expedited parts arrived from Chicago. As I remember the repair was time critical as we need to get the harvest done before the rains hit.
My father taught me how to braze. To do it right proper techniques need to be followed. I have repaired several gears with similar techniques. That was nearly a half century ago.
This was so informative. I love watching a machinist work on fixing broken gear. It allows me to see what my dad would of done when he worked at Grant Gear during WWII or at H.K. Porter in the 1960s both were in Boston!
Some fifty years ago, I was completing my apprenticeship on the electrical side of things. Where I worked held a fairly comprehensive machine shop, and one of the items was the indexing machine which I never found the time to watch or learn it's function. Some fifty years later, all is revealed. Thanks for the time!
Was a machinist back in 70’s and 80’s and then many shops went automated or closed down, mainly the latter so I went into where the demand was and that was in in heavy duty fitting. Chalk and cheese the difference you can imagine. Now I’m retired and it’s good to go back to a machining channel and virtually refresh my memory again.
Years ago I had to do a similar thing. A couple of different things: preheated the cast gear thoroughly and stood it up in sand, when it was filled the gear was completely covered in sand and left (I think it was left until the next day), also the filler was keyholed, which made for a very secure root for the teeth. Last I heard of the machine it was fitted to, it was still running fine after over ten years.
Great to watch, thanks
Sir, you are a real craftsman. Rebrazing that second tooth was a lot of work, but if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Great video.
Man, watching you work those old school milling machines never gets old! Wish I had access to a shop like yours!
Thanks Jason!
Reminds me a little bit of woodshop class back in high school. We had a ton of old band saws, lathes, and drill presses that dated from the 1950s - 60s. But the planers, routers and table saws were much newer.
Me to and some one ego testched me to us em 😁👍
Thanks Keith, it was a frustrating week and this made it all go away. Great lesson.
+Larry Pardi Thanks Larry!
It is really astonishing how well the brazed material adheres to the surrounding cast iron! If no one had ever seen that done before you would be 100% sure that the whole plug of stuff would come out the first time you ran the horizontal cutter along it. Yet it doesn't - and when finished the new tooth is perfect! *Fantastic* stuff Keith!!!
To be honest I kind of hope your pal _does_ send it back to you as I'd really like to see you fabricate the whole gear up from scratch now!
Many, many thanks as ever!
+morelenmir No worries, I will likely have some more gear work coming up in the near future.
Keith, you are a great down-home guy that is always a pleasure to watch and listen to.
I am 61 and still doing auto body repair. I love watching your videos. please keep doing the vids.
Excellent craftsmanship... I'm ignorant on these procedures and I watched it out of pure curiosity. I'm impressed that the brass metal of the brazing method is capable of withholding the force applied onto it just like the other teeth which are cast iron.
Started my apprenticeship as fitter and turner then into toolmaking. This brings back fond memories of our training and the equipment used. ‘‘Twas many years ago, but still embedded in my mind. Great pastime and interesting video series. Well done.
Masterclass - not just in the execution, but also the presentation.
More great work Keith. Thanks for the update on when it is time to take the plunge and redo the braze. That kind of lesson is going to save a lot of us from having to fix something else that got broke because "close enough" wasn't quite the answer.
+hotdrippyglass Sometimes "close enough" is indeed good enough. Sometime is is not. The key is knowing when you need to start over!
Really enjoy your channel Keith. I am 12 years from retirement, hope to be spending my time doing things like this down the road.
Great outcome, goes to show you take pride in your work with the re-braze, many a folk may have said was good enough at that point.
+Dinxsy imagine i fhe heard it failed sometime in future, he would be second guessing all the time about that inclusion and if it started to make it weaker, it takes pride in your work to be good at it, and to at least know you did the best job you can do, rather than half a job.
+Dinxsy Better to just do it right and not have to worry about things. If it had come back to me that way, I would not have been happy with the job.
Nicely done, Keith!
I'm a wannabe machinist and I have read (and watched) a fair amount about dividing heads. However, the fundamental way in which the tooth count of the gear being cut combined with the reduction ratio of the dividing head AND the hole count of the dividing head index plate all interplayed with each other escaped me until now. Thanks for the instruction!
Nice job, Keith. Another very informative and well executed video. The closeups on the cutter doing the work were just great. I could watch this stuff all day long.....
+Jeff Heath Thanks Jeff! Sometimes I do watch this stuff all day long. It gets boring after a while.....
@@VintageMachinery Many times I have wished that I could have a "fast forward" setting on the clock. Then I suppose it is like the guy in Catch 22 that tried to be bored all the time so he would live longer. Best to go with what God gives me. 😆
Dividing heads on a milling machine always seem to be a little intimidating when you first see them but, believe me, once you learn the way they work and the extreme accuracy that they have, you'll be wanting to cut gears in everything!
You can even add a gear train to the end of the table, connected to the dividing head, so that the work turns as it's being cut to produce some really weird worms...
Millers are the backbone of engineering in any factory.
Ohhh, Keith, feels so good, to hear the intro sound of Your work vids again.. Good success, and THX, even my 83 year old father learned a lot.. Greetz,
+Markus Lineal (LinPoTec) Thank you!
it always amazes me how much oil can be locked inside old cast iron.. you never think that it's actually somewhat porous until you start putting the heat to it and the oil starts seeping out.
Man I miss brazing and welding.. I love the marshmallow like smell of most brazing fluxes... so good smelling (even though I don't eat marshmallows)
+J.A.Ratt85 Very true about the oil - I see that all the time!
It isn't oil inside the cast iron coming out (there might be some in the very surface layer but not inside) nor as another comment suggested water "sweating" out of the metal.
It is the moisture from the water that is a combustion by-product from the acetylene flame, hitting the cold surface of the metal and condensing. Exactly like water on the outside of a glass.
If the flame was hydrogen the reaction would be 2x H2 + O2 = 2x H2O
and the ONLY combustion products would be heat and water;
Because it is acetylene the reaction is more complex and there's other by-products, but there's still plenty of water there to condense on a cold surface.
There's nothing coming out of the glass when moisture from the air condenses on it and likewise there's nothing coming out of the metal when moisture from the flame condenses on it.
Sorry Tano.
The combustion H2O from gas torches condenses at a much lower temperature than this gear would have been at the stage of preheat where bubbles and fluids were seen exuding from surface pores of the Iron's crystalline structure. Yes, when using gas welding, water does condense on the surface of a cold metal work piece for a mere moment before evaporating off. H2O can't condense on a surface with a temperature over 100 deg C. It is entirely possible that an absorbed mixture of H2O and oil was present within the Iron, which has lived as a gear in a lubricated machine for many years. The H2O and then oils would have formed vapour and pressure, which drove the mixture to the surface, where some vapour filled bubbles were visible, the dark fluid spread quickly before evaporating or oxidising. If the pores beneath the brazed area were still exuding fluids and gasses, the brazing material may not bond to the surface. A possible reason for the mentioned inclusion in the 2nd area, which required re-working?
Check-
Super Oilite bearings (an extreme example)
preheating Iron components before welding
@@VintageMachinery Cast Iron contains a small amount of Graphite, to make the cast more fluidic during casting. It adds a hidden benefit in that it will absorb some oil/water into the cast part. The metallurgic term is hygroscopic, although of it's light oils that are absorbed. This is why cast gears don't require a lot of lubrication and steel ones do.
I would have preheated it a bit more than lay in the root pass with hard bronze. Than turn down the torch for more control. It the cast has a crack in it, you drill a hole 1/2 inch past the crack so when the cast expands the hole trapps the crack , Vee it out and lay in the bronze. To cool it down slowly bury the part in floor dry in a steel container. This process works well on engine blocks as well. The big thing on cast is to stress relief. otherwise if it cools to quickly it can crack right along side of the weld or thru the center. To stress relief run a needle gun, (slag remover gun) or even tapp it with a round end of a ball peen hammer until its a cooled somewhat.
Excellent work done. Most interesting to watch the work done by expert, and also explain technical information very well, it most useful for especially mechanical engineering personal, many many thanks thanks. My most lovely channel, also I am an engineer ( retired)
Another great video on Gear Cutting, I never get tired of watching this process Keith. Thank you mate.
Ha! Just saw your video! I learned these repairs in my early 20's, and I'm more than twice that now. I did "big gears" in Cast Iron that were about 20" in diameter, and the old expert I learned from was a guy named Bob. The largest "steel" gears I did were on "paper roll clamps" made for Cascade - I did those in 8620, and actually "hand machined" those with a handmade template I would use with "blue" painters oil paint. Never had a problem. Took a few hours to fix a few teeth. Piece of cake with someone with patience. Also used a 4" hand grinder with a 120 grit sanding disk and a hand file with "safe edges" . (The gear was worth more than $4k back in the mid 80's). Repaired for less than $400. It's amazing what the hand and eye can do with "blueing". Never had a failure. I found my old template sitting in my tool box the other day. Brought back fond memories when "hand skills" were still a thing.
Superb tech repair and slowly cooling down is the best way !
I learn a little more every time! An old mill operator told me a long time ago that a mill was the only machine that could reproduce itself. This was way before CNC came along, at least out at the DuPont shop. I just like to watch how it's supposed to be done. I just saw the machines already running there and no setup at all. Mighty interesting. You are a good teacher, like I said!
+Lewie McNeely Thank you sir! I would hate to have to build a new mill with nothing but a mill, but I suppose it could be done!
Thanks Keith. There's always something new to learn with your videos.
Holy smokes, I really like this machine. When he extended the arbor support shafts I was impressed. I been around many machine shops but this one is a first for me. Really cool.
Always good to Watch the Master At work keith. Ive been off the Air for about 7 Months moving from one end of the Country to the other, Finally Got My Computer up and running. Plus almost finished building my New Mobile Machine Shop (20 Ft Shipping Container) Which ill get some Photos Done Soon and put them Up. Dave from Australia
How could anyone give you thumbs down? Could they be jealous? Shame on them.Just for that I had 6 of my friends come to give you more thumbs up.
Excellent work as always! Thanks for the time you devote providing these videos for all to learn from.
+Mark V It does not bother me - there are a handful of guys out there that give every video I do a thumbs down. Who knows why...
Neat stuff there Keith! Always cool to see a big blob of bronze becoming a nice machined repair.
+Marin de Vree Thanks - it came out very nice!
Hello Keith,
I didn't have a clue how you made that new teeth but after this video now I know how to repair teeth. Not that I could do it myself but I understand how it works so again a very interesting video.
Looking forward to the next one and many greetings from Roel !
+RoelTyros As always, things for watching! I also thank you for your faithful feedback!
Why can't we still have professionals like this instead of buying crapola Made in China that you'll have to replace in no time. Sigh, Keith - we need more of your kind in this world.
Awesome video! Thank you! :)
The reason why we don't have any professionals out there is my personal reasons. One, we are not recognized as professional machinist or qualified artisans in my country and the world, secondly we are paid the worst salary ever but yet we are still doing machining and thirdly today it is all about qualification and papers and not about the passion we have for doing what we love doing. Younger generation are more status driven. I will not change my trade for anything in this world because it keeps me alive.
I always have to smile when I hear these machinists talk about their imperial sizes, just keeping it as complicated as possible instead of going metric 😉😉😉
Every field can be made into an art. Sir you are a true artist.
+Bernard Carter Thank you for the kind words!
Just want to say, good job. Keep the old craft alive!
+James Bridges Thanks James!
I love you attitude about taking the time to do it right.
That K and T really gets her done nicely every time - Thanks for sharing the particulars.
+John Strange Thanks John - I just love that old machine more and more!
Machinery that was built to last old school engineering nostalgic but still cranking out quality products thanks for sharing your skills...
I GOT INTO WATCHING YOU THROUGH WATCHING MY FAVOURITE, ABOM HE MENTIONED YOU SEVERAL TIMES SO I TRIED YOUR VIDEOS, REALLY AM ENJOYING BOTH OF YOUR CONTENT, GREAT TO WATCH AS WE ARE ON LOCKDOWN FOR THE SECOND TIME, THANK YOU BOTH.BOB U.K. ENGLAND.
Finally!! Something worth watching on freaking UA-cam.
Great job ! Wow ! Seeing how passionate you are and all the tools you have, I wish I could fly to your place and learn from you.
I like the way you work clean and you check 3check
I once welded a new tooth (the original was broken completely off) using only GMAW wire on the base of a Telelect pole digger. The crew had been using the boom to wiggle the poles loose in the ground, instead of the correct way. Worked great, never saw that truck again.
Excellent video as usual. Back in the sixties we seemed to do a lot more brazing than we do now . We always seemed to have a lot of worn machine shafts that we built up with braze and then turned back down to fit a bearing. I guess the throw away generation has gotten away from those kind of repairs. Anyway, thanks for another educational video.
+Jim Pritz everything is parts now, not repairs, it was always shimming, casting new white bearings and scraping them, i think machines got too advanced and tolerances, they work better when new, but are more fussy, the olderstuff more unrefined but can be made to last forever.
+Jim Pritz I agree Jim I think the reason is that with CNC machines it's cheaper to chuck up a blank and have the machine cut it rather than pay someone around 20 hours for three hours to make one. With a CNC machine you can pay him 20 bucks an hour to make three. Everyone wins the company makes a small profit, the machinist gets a job and to watch them being made, the consumer gets the part cheaper, and the recycle yard gets the scraps. But yep if you have the skills and the time by all means recycle the part, for fun or if you need it and you don't have the time to wait fix it. I run across this situation all the time at work, usually with just find a substitute part or have one made. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
+Jim Pritz The sad truth is that companies do research to find out how long something should last so that the majority of the customers would feel like they got their money's worth and still be come back and buy from them again. Then they design their product to fail around that same time. Nobody wants to make something that will last forever - no repeat business that way. Engineered obsolesce.
didn't think brazing was that strong thanks for updating me
I hope you never start thinking this video stuff is getting old or that we don't want to see something you're making because it's too mundane, I could watch you everyday, whatever you're working on.
+Shane K its better to see something twice because it needed doing, than have to force a video, and that would show in you, ive seen other channels fall over this way
I don't know, I think I'd watch Keith if all he had to do is make buttermilk pancakes.
+Shane K Buttermilk pancakes - now that sounds good!
At the machine shop I worked at in the 70s, we would drill and tap that gear. Then screw into two 1/4 bolts, cut of the heads, then braze that whole area. The bolts would be machined down, with the brass, but the bolts gave that tooth gave it strength the brass alone could not provide.
I love those old machines. They just do what you want.
BEAUTIFUL JOB ... I worked my whole life in job shops as a machinist repairing things like this and others and making new machines as well. There are not many of us around today that do this type of work, HELL .. they don't even repair shoes any more. God love you Sir.... NICE VID
Thank you - I am sure that you could probably teach me a thing or two with all of that experience. It is getting harder and harder to find old school guys to learn from anymore. I am at least trying to do my part to preserve what I have learned over the years!
Now this is how the railway trades in Stratford Ontario would do it.. this is real skill..
As some, one who knows nothing about this sort of thing , it's fascinating seeing a skilled person at work .
+welshpete12 Thank you!
Great work there Keith, always a pleasure to watch a true Craftsman @ work!
+ShysterLawyer Thank you!
ShysterLawyer even the imperials stopped using imperial
Ritesh Patil
Ummm, what?
ShysterLawyer b
I don't know the first thing about any of this but it's still incredibly interesting to watch. I was surprised to see what looked like some type of outgassing occuring when heat was applied. Didn't know that could occur on such a gear. Regardless, this was very rewarding to watch and see the finished repair.
Thanks Keith as with most of your videos i learn something from everyone i watch
This video is making me jealous. What makes it much more fun is when they bring you 2/3rds of the gear in pieces and say make a new one. Or bring you something incomplete in pieces that has been in the ground for 80+ years and say make a new one. These old machines are not the most accurate things in the world, but good enough for government work. Fond Memories.
Kieth, as usual another great video. Thank you for your time spent putting these together.
+norm hays Thanks for watching!
My father welded up two pieces of cast iron with nickel rod. He bought some playground sand from Lowes. Put some sand in a box laid the part in, then covered it with the rest of the sand. Works great for cooling. Just make sure the sand is dry.
Beautiful video, Keith.
I look your videos, very happy.
Because what you're doing, that's what I learned lancer, the fitter (industrial mechanic specializing in industrial engineering).
Greetings from Germany.
+Günter Schöne Thank you for watching!
4 years , better late than never, Keith Sir engineering Maestro thank you, loved this vid !
Plastic gears in auto ac blend door solenoids have lasted years after drilling three holes and inserting wire to repair broken teeth . If cracked not so much.
Great info. Ive used brasing for repairs often but may have shied away from for cast gears. Will have to have another look at my lathes thread cutting drive set to reestareestablish the failures chances with this solution. Also broke some teeth off of chain driven industrial paper shredder that could be reproduced with end mill. They were not the best anvils I've tried. Everything else that I've broken were spiral gears that have been available and with the added difficulty, torque, friction, and speed involved would consider some of the other options you mentioned. Going after dimensions to grind a cutter wheel right now.
Hi Keith,
Another great job! It's been my experience that a braze on cast iron is probably as strong as or stronger than the cast iron. The main reason being that the bronze is not as brittle as the cast iron. I've repaired a lot of broken exhaust manifolds and never had one come back.
+Jim Kodysz That has been my experience as well. I have brazed up a bunch of cast iron parts over the years and I have not had one come back to me in many years. I also see a lot of old repairs that are still holding strong!
Skipped through this for quick review. Enjoyed it the first time I watched the series start to finish. Always nice to see the completed part.
Zen and the art of cast iron gear repair.
Like your work and your comfort level with the machine is a duly noticed.
Never knew that bronze could repair gear teeth. Great work!
i machined an axel shaft for a fwd tractor and cut the splines on a bridgeport vertical mill,i sharpened a hs tool bit to fit the splines and cut'em,fit like a glove when i took it off to check the fit
Great Video , You guys always amaze me on how you save items from being scrap .
+Rockland Kcorvic That's the goal!
20/39ths? my head hurts. Enjoyed watching this, thanks for uploading. Beautiful work.
great job buddy , love your work ! maybe too much heat ,smaller tip maybe ! I would use NI rod , but I stick weld , I weld alot ! Been a certified pipe welder for years , thanks for all the great videos
Nice Job Keith I always learn something from you. Personally I think I would have cut a slot and brazed in a cast iron blank filling up both sides and then cut it. But you never know maybe the two metals during use could have produced a hairline crack. All in all It looks like a great repair, don't forget to ask Hecktor for an update for us. Best Wishes and Blessings Keith
+Keith Noneya I hope to get some feedback from him!
Great job Keith, That,s the same way I do my broken teeth on a gear with that said it will last for years to come. Thank you for your great work, Stay safe
+Randall Moore Thanks again Randall!
Keith, another trick for slow cooling and insulating the work is to bury the part in fly ash, the fine wood ash from a wood stove. I have annealed parts and they will still be warm to the touch after 8 Hrs. with this method, nice slow cool down!
+Al Meyer That is an old blacksmith trick for annealing metal. Yes, I have used it before, just don't have much wood ash laying around!
Thanks Keith, I hope you have a nice weekend and get some well deserved time in the shop.
Aloha...Chuck
+Knolltop Farms Thanks Chuck - hoping to get back on the furnace project in the morning!
Keith, I enjoyed the gear tooth repair video. Always fun to watch someone else work. LOL Spent my day making a slot plate for my Greenerd #3 Arbor press. I made the plate out of 4140 PH. Now I can use the press to broach a keyway in the new universal joint for the Oliver #510 drill sharpener I continue to restore. You may recall from the pictures I sent you a while back. Good on you Keith, Harvey from Nebraska
+binks166 Very nice! My advise to anybody who likes these videos is to just get out in the shop and do something - anything! Nice to hear that you are doing some restorations. I remember the photos you sent!
Keith PIMPED that gear with GOLD TEETH!! WOOT!!!
+Richard Head What can I say, my dentistry skills are impressive! Need a filling? I have the torch ready to melt some braze in there!
@@VintageMachinery hope you have some very low melting solder ready for your dentistry craft. otherwise .... OUCH!!
Nice work...
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share it
Nice work Keith, and a great video. I was pleased you went back and rebrazed that section - I didn't think it was up to your usual standard!
+CornishMiner It was obvious once I cut some material out - you could see the inclusion inside. I really thought it was just where I did not build the braze up high enough at first.
Also, the one new tooth seemed a bit thinner than the original ones (38:03). Maybe just a visual perception anomaly in the video and angle but in going back to the video I still see it. This doesn't take away from my appreciation of the work especially since it was redone to a better finish.
Looks like machines I used to operate. 1942 was a very good year!
Very nice, I’ve always have had interest in repairing broken parts by old school means using manual machines. Thanks Keith.
Nice job, Mr Rucker. I think modern folk might not realize, that restoring broken gears off old Victorian m/chines was commonplace in years gone by. All kinds of gears & sizes some light loading,and some very heavy. It was not possible to go to anywhere & get a 'spare or a new' one, and the Lathes, Milling m/machines , & you name it + Agricultural M/chines were enormous & tremendously expensive, as you well know- getting a gear fixed 'with a specific process' commensurate with the power load the teeth had to survive, was well known. I was apprenticed to Maudslay Motor Co' in England..UK. in the 1950's & saw this stuff often. Brazing was for light loads, Slave teeth made from spheroidal cast iron were *set in*, where heavy loads req'd. I saw gears 100 to 150 yrs old mended in 'Black country' the heart of Midlands of England. For ref: Henry Maudslay (22 August 1771-14 Feb' 1831) was an English machine tool innovator, tool and die maker,and the inventor.who is considered a founding father of machine tool technology. His inventions were an important foundation for the Industrial Revolution. Maudslay's particular contribution being,the invention of a metal lathe to cut metal, (I was told 1796) & the " 1st Micrometer ",{with 40 TPI..about 1800 AD},to cut at .001" which enabled later, the manufacture of standard screw thread sizes, which then allowed & created interchangeable parts & again thereafter, the development of mass **production.To** continue Inverted *Woodruff cutters* were specially made for heavy load gear mends. A Woodruff key ( I think you USA guys have a diff' name) was a dovetail slip of metal to anchor a gear to its shaft..Some which were of acceptable size,were then used ( or if not,specially made ) The Grandson of Mr Woodruff was my boss in the M/chine shop where I worked, making parts for the famous RED LONDON BUSES' yes they were made at Castle Maudslay.. I worked on at least 100. To continue,The gear to be mended,had the broken tooth & often the next tooth as well, to be safe,milled away ( carefully observed size that created no weakness ) and a slave section made & inserted [ Gear heated- slave Frozen ] thereafter milled as per you did. If of interest Chk out .'Fred Dibnah' an English steeplejack ( climbed mill chimneys 100.& 200 ft high without a safety harness ) He also built a Victorian style workshop in his back yard- & restored old Steam rollers, Traction Engines,& parts for clients with problems. Amazing stuff. I admire your craftsmanship Keith & your dedication to detail..Kind Regards. { Only stumbled on you thro' lockdown } .
Really enjoyed Keith!! From one who has never done gear cutting, I learned much. Thanks,
Bob
+Bick1027 DE My pleasure Bob!
Hi it’s stacie! Awesome job Keith! I love watching stuff like this! The teeth turned out really well and I love the humor too! Thanks for a great video!
This is Machine Repair 101. I did this with a 12" gear that drove a carousel when I was a kid. Before I formed the teeth I drilled tapped and screwed in steel pins to reinforce the bronze. Then i built up the teeth with a bronze rod heated with an arc torch powered by a Lincoln stick welder. After the thing cooled i shaped the teeth with a few coarse tooth files.
All this was at a small amusement park in Guilderland NY during the 1950's to 1960's. It was built by my step father and, after I was 8 yo, maintained and operated by me. Anybody remember The Carolyn Road? I miss the shop but I do not miss the drunk.
Weelll, I gotta say Keith is a pretty damn good and uncommon name.
My father has been a machinist since 'He' was young, And I've always had interest, I've only had a few chances to use machining machinery. A belt driven 3 speed lathe that I am told was once part of an assembly line of multiple same lathes (Now with an AC motor strapped to it) and a CNC mill with the "CNC" portion broken. I really enjoyed this video, No favoritism! :). I think I will check out some more.
PS. if your father's name is "Mark"... *mind blown*
MG makes a cast iron welding flux used with cast iron rods, it is MG240F, used with a acetylene. I bought it but have not had a chance to use it. A friend of mine that owns his own machine shop and a welding shop both said it was a great way to weld cast iron on smaller parts. The rods are like brazing rods but they are square, the number of the rods is MG240 if anyone is interested.
I am not trying to say there was anything wrong with brazing the gears, just sharing the info.
+imystery man Worth looking into...
Older equipment ALWAYS works the best! And looks cooler!
its really cool to see the metal sweat like that when you heated up the gear
Its not the metal sweating. It is moisture in the combustion by- products of the acetylene flame condensing on the (originally relatively cold) surface.
Think a chemically more complicated** version of:
2 x H2 + O2 = 2 x (H2O)
**more complicated because the acetylene burning is more complicated chemically than straight hydrogen, but it is a similar reaction which produces water as one of the by-products.
There's no water trapped in the microstructure of any metal -- steel, brass, bronze, or cast iron.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Hardly working that wheel cutter. At that slow feed rate it sounded like most of the teeth were just along for the ride!
absolutely beautiful! so is this how you would create a new gear. ..one cut at a time.? Seems a very laborious but fascinating process. I could watch this for hours.
+k1mgy This is one way of making a new gear, but for mass production, they use a machine and tooling called a "gear hob" that greatly speeds things up. The gear hob is not practical to set up for just a couple of gears though, so for a one-off job like this, most would just cut them one at a time....
When trimming this gear I suggest setting the cutting tool against the cast iron and setting a zero for both the side and the diameter. Then back off the tool and start the machine. Advance the slide toward the zero to face the side of the gear. Cut the diameter in a similar manner. Then hand file the gear teeth. I would not bother setting up the mill unless most of the teeth were stripped.
Where the heck do you fabrication machinists hide at? I'd love to have a local fabrication machine shop to go to for odd projects but all I can find are automotive shops. I should have been a machinist. I find it absolutely fascinating. Thanks for sharing this stuff.
Thanx Keith! That was pretty cool to see it get done.
+captainjerk Thanks for watching!