Thanks for posting this video. My old voltage regulator was wired with spliced wires and had the incorrect wires going to it. Your video helped me find the correct wires in the correct order.
Hey so im doin my 69 k10 regulator bypass. And your video helped me a lot. Had a question. The 10 awg wire that youve fused...can i remove that wire..by the looks of it..the original wiring is Tee'd off. Would it be safe to do so? Anorher one..the amp meter has two 12 awg wires ran and end by the battery. Was wondering what your set up is like. thank you bud
Could you explain more clearly what wires can be deleted and what wires are necessary. Will connecting the brown and red wires keep the “idiot” light and amp meter working?
Whats the blue wire for ? . I had done this years ago with my 68 c10 stepside . I saved the voltage regulator plug due to the jumper wire i had incorporated in it . An an old timer did this conversion for me .. idk y he jumped a wire from the brown to the blue .. do u?
You have a current draw somewhere. You can have someone hold a meter to the battery and then start pulling fuses. When the voltage drops, you've found the circuit with the draw. Then just start tracing out wires for that circuit. Bad trailer light hook ups can cause an amp draw. That's what it was on both of my trucks that had that issue.
Ok so my ignition isnt turning truck off now so i bought a rectifier do u know if that gets wired on to the white wire or blue wire that goes into alternator? I have a 71’ just swapped in a 99’ vortec 350. TIA
Brown wire just goes into the distribution block on your firewall. I'll have to dig around and find my schematics to trace it out past that. Inside the motor bay, it connects to the smaller "sense" wire coming off of your new alternator connector.
Brown wire comes from position 4 on the connector to the original regulator. They go F-2-3-4. Position 4 is the Alternator Indicator light on your dash, often referred to as a 'dummy' light and indicates to the person operating the vehicle that the original charging system is not working as it should.
I think the alternator indicator light will work by having close to zero volts across it under normal conditions i.e 12-14V on both terminals. If the alternator or external regulator in this case should stop working then you won't get 12-14V from it on the brown wire and so there will be a voltage difference on the two terminals of the lamp. This will cause a current to flow through the lamp due the voltage difference and illuminate it.
Yes, the blue wire gets deleted. It originally ran from the voltage regulator to the old style alternator. I have not figured out the size of fuse needed. I can't seem to find any literature or schematics that state what the amp rating was/is on the old fusible link that everything used to run through. Temporarily, I've just run it back to the link, located on the passenger side fender.
Thanks for posting this video. My old voltage regulator was wired with spliced wires and had the incorrect wires going to it. Your video helped me find the correct wires in the correct order.
Update us on the wiring seeing if it actually works or not
I’m trying to do this with a 3 wire alternator so brown/white goes to terminal 2? and blue goes to terminal 1? Or did you delete the blue wire?
Hey so im doin my 69 k10 regulator bypass. And your video helped me a lot. Had a question. The 10 awg wire that youve fused...can i remove that wire..by the looks of it..the original wiring is Tee'd off. Would it be safe to do so? Anorher one..the amp meter has two 12 awg wires ran and end by the battery. Was wondering what your set up is like. thank you bud
Could you explain more clearly what wires can be deleted and what wires are necessary. Will connecting the brown and red wires keep the “idiot” light and amp meter working?
Which wires make the gauge work
Whats the blue wire for ? . I had done this years ago with my 68 c10 stepside . I saved the voltage regulator plug due to the jumper wire i had incorporated in it . An an old timer did this conversion for me .. idk y he jumped a wire from the brown to the blue .. do u?
My 67 c10 battery has been draining out since i bought it, I have to disconnect the ground cable on the battery to keep it from draining. Any advise?
You have a current draw somewhere. You can have someone hold a meter to the battery and then start pulling fuses. When the voltage drops, you've found the circuit with the draw. Then just start tracing out wires for that circuit. Bad trailer light hook ups can cause an amp draw. That's what it was on both of my trucks that had that issue.
@@rusticridesgarage7905 Thanks for the advice 👍
@@rusticridesgarage7905 I think your right, im going to to investigate it more when I get some free time. Ill keep you posted thanks.
Ok so my ignition isnt turning truck off now so i bought a rectifier do u know if that gets wired on to the white wire or blue wire that goes into alternator? I have a 71’ just swapped in a 99’ vortec 350. TIA
I have a 70 GMC I want run a 1 wire alt, what’s the best way
Where is the brown wire coming from? Battery gauge? Where did you end up connecting it.?
Brown wire just goes into the distribution block on your firewall. I'll have to dig around and find my schematics to trace it out past that. Inside the motor bay, it connects to the smaller "sense" wire coming off of your new alternator connector.
Brown wire comes from position 4 on the connector to the original regulator. They go F-2-3-4. Position 4 is the Alternator Indicator light on your dash, often referred to as a 'dummy' light and indicates to the person operating the vehicle that the original charging system is not working as it should.
I think the alternator indicator light will work by having close to zero volts across it under normal conditions i.e 12-14V on both terminals. If the alternator or external regulator in this case should stop working then you won't get 12-14V from it on the brown wire and so there will be a voltage difference on the two terminals of the lamp. This will cause a current to flow through the lamp due the voltage difference and illuminate it.
What alternator did you use?
I don't recall exactly. It was one off of Summit Racing. It's pretty, but it's loud.
@@rusticridesgarage7905 what amp ??? 100?
Did u delete the blue wire? Di you happen to find out what size fuse you need for the new fuse block?
Yes, the blue wire gets deleted. It originally ran from the voltage regulator to the old style alternator. I have not figured out the size of fuse needed. I can't seem to find any literature or schematics that state what the amp rating was/is on the old fusible link that everything used to run through. Temporarily, I've just run it back to the link, located on the passenger side fender.
Understood.. Thanks for the reply.
I'd say 30 amp
I got rid of my voltage regulator due to my battery exploding when the regulator decided to over charge 🙄💣💥
Could not be less clear.