Love these videos. I am working on a 74 CB360 with my boys and have just reached the milestone of having the bike down to the frame. Daunting tasks ahead of us but these vids keep me going. Not to mention the parts available through your site. Keep up the good work!
Good idea loosening those stubborn head nuts, etc before the engine comes out! I'd like to add a few tips- for stubborn phillips screws, use a fresh pair of long nose 6-7" good quality vise grip pliers (essential tool!) on the screw head, or dremel or hacksaw a slot for a flat blade 'driver, but prep the screw first by using a short fat 'punch' and good weight hammer or mallet to 'stake' the screw inwards- like the impact driver would do- without the twisting motion. Sometimes that will sorta renew the four points to where a phillips impact driver will work to remove it. Don't hit too hard but a couple of good taps will do wonders. Worst case, sometimes you just gotta use a small sharp chisel to get it rotating. Fire and open flame can KILL! To do a one person engine removal, carefully lay the mostly stripped bike on it's left side (use protection too for paint, etc) and the engine will practically fall out of the frame- be ready for it! Also, when you pull the rotor, watch for all the starter clutch sprag pieces/ parts that will jump, roll, fly away before you know it. I made my own oil 'filter' removal tool by hacksawing(rough cutting) and filing (fine tuning) an old spark plug socket to fit. It only took a little more than a beer, timewise, lol. It's not torqued on that tightly, so your homemade tool should suffice, like mine did.
When it was time to reinstall the motor, I ended up laying it on it's left side and then carefully laid the bike over it. It was then very easy to insert the bottom motor mount bolts and lift the bike back onto it's wheels. I recommend unbolting the left rear turn signal stalk. I used some padding to avoid damaging the frame and motor, etc. Easy!
When removing seized screws (like the Phillips screw) I avoid drilling if possible. Hand drills are too imprecise. I use a sharpened chisel and pound a notch on the outside diameter of the screw.... in the direction to loosen. A few whacks with a hammer and it'll usually come loose. I agree that a torch in this area isn't the safest thing to do.
Everyone should own an impact screwdriver. Not the an impact driver but an impact screw driver.
Love these videos. I am working on a 74 CB360 with my boys and have just reached the milestone of having the bike down to the frame. Daunting tasks ahead of us but these vids keep me going. Not to mention the parts available through your site.
Keep up the good work!
Great video! Very helpful. I am just starting to get into the cb450 myself and I am finding your videos extremely insightful. Thank you for this.
Good idea loosening those stubborn head nuts, etc before the engine comes out!
I'd like to add a few tips- for stubborn phillips screws, use a fresh pair of long nose 6-7" good quality vise grip pliers (essential tool!) on the screw head, or dremel or hacksaw a slot for a flat blade 'driver, but prep the screw first by using a short fat 'punch' and good weight hammer or mallet to 'stake' the screw inwards- like the impact driver would do- without the twisting motion. Sometimes that will sorta renew the four points to where a phillips impact driver will work to remove it. Don't hit too hard but a couple of good taps will do wonders. Worst case, sometimes you just gotta use a small sharp chisel to get it rotating. Fire and open flame can KILL! To do a one person engine removal, carefully lay the mostly stripped bike on it's left side (use protection too for paint, etc) and the engine will practically fall out of the frame- be ready for it! Also, when you pull the rotor, watch for all the starter clutch sprag pieces/ parts that will jump, roll, fly away before you know it. I made my own oil 'filter' removal tool by hacksawing(rough cutting) and filing (fine tuning) an old spark plug socket to fit. It only took a little more than a beer, timewise, lol. It's not torqued on that tightly, so your homemade tool should suffice, like mine did.
When it was time to reinstall the motor, I ended up laying it on it's left side and then carefully laid the bike over it. It was then very easy to insert the bottom motor mount bolts and lift the bike back onto it's wheels. I recommend unbolting the left rear turn signal stalk. I used some padding to avoid damaging the frame and motor, etc. Easy!
Were those case screws Phillips or were they JIS?
Nice work Brendan
With an engine casing with traces of petrol and oil, I would have been hesitant about using a blowtorch anywhere near the engine
When removing seized screws (like the Phillips screw) I avoid drilling if possible. Hand drills are too imprecise. I use a sharpened chisel and pound a notch on the outside diameter of the screw.... in the direction to loosen. A few whacks with a hammer and it'll usually come loose. I agree that a torch in this area isn't the safest thing to do.
Excellent
Great video, many thanks.
may i ask why you guys removed the points cover and plate before removing the engine?
I was wondering the same thing
To keep it from getting scratched up. No other reason.
Honda 4 life
Yeah Boi!
great slow andunderstandable