I took a leap of faith as a reasonably capable DIY’r and used this approach. I am quite pleased with the outcome overall. I used the DELTA-MS 6.0 ft and ¾” T&G plywood as illustrated here. The results were good in that the under-foot feel of the sub-floor is great (no noises) and peace-of-mind that I have a moisture management system in place is great! One additional benefit is that I learned what those diamond markings on the tape measure are used for in the trade. I also justified the purchase of a SDS drill which was a pure pleasure to use. Thumbs up!
Thank you Don! It’s very heart warming to hear from you and that you’re enjoying a great system! Stay tuned for more videos and please stay safe and healthy! Happy holidays!
I have been watching a ton of videos of subfloors in a basement. I have to be honest and say that this man has it down packed! Great library on the subject, all my questions are answered after watching Edwards videos and reading through the comments👍🏻
This video was extremely helpful. I am using Advantech over Eco Cork Foam for a slab on grade application. I was going to let the Advantech float but now, I am going to use your technique to attach to the slab. The silicone pre-injection was brilliant! Thank you.
Fantastic job. I started half my basement with dricore and was planning on continuing with it. I purchased some new dricore 6 months after starting and they have made the product thinner to save money and keep the product the same price. I took them back and bought some DMX AG same product as what you use. Just brought the tongue and groove ply in yesterday. Hoping it turns out as nice as yours
This video is better than most if not all of the larger channels on sub flooring! I appreciate the small details like vacuuming out the holes and using silicone, most don't do the extra work. Glad I stumbled across this vid, thanks for sharing!
principled gamer thank you very much! Stay tuned for more video on some tips. Happy basement building! If you ever have any questions I’m here to help! Stay safe and healthy!
Did this when I finished my basement, tap conned the subfloor down and did all the wall framing between the subfloor and joists so underneath the whole subfloor was open. Worked perfectly as I accidentally flooded the basement a couple days later when I left the electricity off down there overnight and it rained. With the breakers off, the sump pump was too. None of the water contacted the plywood and it just took me a few hours to dry underneath with a fan and sweeping the water to the sump pump (after I hooked it back up).
Thank you so much for watching and your compliment! Stay tuned for more videos and please check out our library on subfloor videos! Stay safe and healthy!
Thanks for the video and thorough explanation of your approach and solid advice. Looking through the comments and the video I see in your area you can put the framing on top of the subfloor. Here in CO our soils are very expansive and code requires a PT bottom plate + 2" space then standard framing bottom plate and wall. The two bottom plates fastened to the concrete in a manner to allow heaving/expansion of concrete. I will have to chat with building department on whether the walls can sit on the subfloor or put in subfloor after framing is complete sealing the joint where plywood and PT bottom plate meet. Suggest anyone contemplating this approach for their basement verify with your local building dept. or it will be a very disappointing framing inspection day.
I wanted cement floors but realized it would cost too much to have done professionally..so I started to do it myself with self leveling cement filling in all the divots from the tack stripping..it would take me forever since I would be doing it myself..then I thought what about laying a plywood floor so here I am looking at this amazing video..I think this will work for what I am looking for..thank you so much for speaking slowly and demonstrating how to put in a perfect tongue and groove floor..my only question is should there be a filler where the 4 foot pieces meet each other?
Great video! Starting my basement this month have absolutely no knowledge so I’ll be using this video thank you! Do you have a video of the framing after the sub floor?
Thank you for this expert technique and superb video, absolutely beautiful work👍 Would you also recommend a layer of foamboard for insulation from the cold coming from the underneath of the cement slab? Txs and very best..
Thank you for your kind words! To be honest if it’s in your budget you sure can, but I don’t think it’s necessary. Your basement slab is usually above freezing temperatures. Just doing the subfloor like in this video will change everything! If you do just remember to use longer screws, I wouldn’t go thicker than a half inch foam board. So if you add 1/2 “ foam board add half inch more to the length of your screws. Happy building! Don’t forget to subscribe and help us grow! Thank you again!
Do you recommend putting in the subfloor then frame the wall or frame the walls and fill in the space with the subfloor? Ive seen it done both ways. Nice vid by the way. Well done and nicely explained. Txs
Mark, I definitely recommend doing the floor first. So much easier and will keep any moisture away from the framing. Check out some other comments about your question. Thanks I really appreciate your kind words! Makes sharing these videos so worth it! Thank you for watching! Stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy!
If the goal is to create uniform vapor barrier on the walls and floor, a couple of questions about this approach come to mind. 1/ If we are sealing the concrete floor from moisture management how do we handle the transition from a sealed area to a sump pump? 2/ How do we handle the “furnace room” or area under an already installed furnace/filter/H2O Tank/etc.?
Great question Dan, 1- this system is not a vapour barrier, it’s more just to stop the humidity that the concrete exhumes. 2- we never do the furnace room or the sump room or the area where the water tank is. Most cases they are all more less in the same area. It’s left without the subfloor. Hopefully you have a drain there. When I do the subfloor, prior to building walls I leave the plywood and membrane a little longer until I square off the area and chalk all the lines for all the walls and then just cut the plywood to these areas for the bottom plate to be installed on top of the plywood. So, when it comes to a vapour barrier to the walls , you use acoustical sealant at the bottom if you need to. I think I’m understanding your question, did I miss anything? Don’t forget we are not trying to create a submarine here, we want to keep the plywood nice and dry from moisture that exhumes from the concrete.
5/8 “ is recommended. 3/8” is available but rare. They also have 3/4”. We always use 5/8” tongue and groove and I highly recommend spruce as opposed to OSB. Hope this helps! Thank you for watching and stay tuned for more videos to come! Stay safe and healthy and happy holidays!
Thanks so much for the awesome videos! If I were to do this in an older home with the basement walls already finished would it be necessary to seal the waterproofing membrane to the bottom plate of the walls or would it be better to leave a 1/4 inch gap to allow the concrete to breathe?
You’re welcome, I wouldn’t bother sealing the floor to any walls. Leave a 1/4 gap for expansion and air flow to keep the concrete below as dry as it can get. Has anyone told you that you have to create a a vapour barrier from a subfloor to a wall after having the walls built in a basement?
Steven Luu thank you for appreciating this video and your kind words. To help you understand our system and the lack of 2 x 4,,, The dimple membrane replaces the 2 x 4s and is so superior to that old school system for so many reasons. The plywood does work very well with our system. No need for any wood materials under flooring today, because the membrane and the fasteners on the plywood do all the work. Please take the time to watch all our subfloor videos, I promise you will see how it all works like magic together! Thank you again,, please feel free to ask questions, I will always try my best to help you! Stay safe and healthy!
Awesome video! What are your thoughts on putting landscaping fabric underneath the membrane for the subfloor? A youtuber mentioned that it would reduce the noise... Thanks!
Thanks! Sorry for the late response, I have tried to reply earlier, for some reason I don’t see it , in my opinion I wouldn’t do it, check the other subfloor videos I have, tips and trick and how to fasten the plywood. Bow Taicho thanks! Check out our videos in me discussing that,, My thoughts as a professional, I wouldn’t bother and these videos will explain why. ua-cam.com/video/rQL-IMSKJVQ/v-deo.html Especially this one, ua-cam.com/video/NsSG6uk_ilI/v-deo.html Don’t forget to subscribe and 👍🏻 Thanks again for watching! Stay safe and healthy!
Great video, looking at going this route for my basement. Curious about framing though, do you frame over the subfloor and tapcon screw sole plate to concrete or frame first then subfloor around walls. What are the benefits of framing over subfloor if any.
Thank you Chris! If you’re going to do a subfloor like this and start your basement. Do the floor first. Then build the walls on top. We don’t use concrete fasteners to attach the bottom plate to the subfloor, we just use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood. You can also use 2” 1/4” wood screws also. If you want you can use concrete fasteners, its up to you. The benefits are you can chalk all your lines on the plywood after you square off the basement and do your layout a little easier. You don’t have to worry about the bottom plate being anywhere near the concrete. (If you put the bottom plate on the concrete you will need to put a gasket or 6 mil poly under the plate.) Framing on the subfloor, eliminates the need for the gasket because you have the dimple membrane already. In my opinion its a better job to keep any wood away from the concrete. Also its easier to do the subfloor through the areas in the basement without having to do so many more cuts around walls that were built first. If you watch the video to the end you will see pics of the walls framed on top. Check out the description for the screws, bits and drill I use for this project. Please read through all the comments, I have answered this before briefly. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos! Stay safe and healthy, Happy New Year and thanks for watching!
@@andrewmathis4707 your question is answered take a read at my reply to Chris Kowalchuk. You can also set your comments settings to newest first and take a read through to some good questions and answers. Happy New Year!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 you are my hero! Thank you so much for this. Framing the walls on top of the subfloor (finished product at end of this video) is a video I cant find anywhere on youtube. Would be awesome to have one from you. That would clear this topic up for all.
Love your video! I was wondering if would you recommend doing that for an entire basement before putting walls/divisions? If so, would you then do the similar drill and caulk approach for the bottom plate to secure it to the concrete slab?
I have answered this before, You can sheet the area you want finished and frame your walls on top, just use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood.
Hi Edward, thanks a lot for this very great video it is well detailed and very easy to follow for DIY beginners. I have a question regarding the basement bathroom. Do you use the same subfloor system to cover the bathroom or do you leave the concrete slab there ? If you keep the concrete as is how do you manage the transition between the bathroom floor and the other rooms in term of high in order to be flush from one room to another. Finally do still build the bathroom framing on the plywood ? thanks a lot for your help
Thank you! I have done it both ways,, it all depends on the job. here’s a video that can help you, Please don’t forget to subscribe! Thanks again for watching!
Really awesome video! I have a home that has a '3 season' above-grade room that has concrete slab floor. We are in central Texas, very hot and fairly humid summers. We're thinking of installing vinyl-plank flooring in this room. Would you suggest the Delta product + subfloor + and then vinyl planks? Any reason I should consider rigid foam sheets above the Delta layer? Last question, with the 1/8" space between plywood sheets, would those spaces 'telegraph' through the vinyl planks (where you can 'observe' the plywood sheet spacing through the vinyl plank contouring?) Thank you for your video, it is really helpful!
Thank you! I would just use the delta membrane , plywood. Just like in our videos. No need to use any rigid foam sheets. If you’re concerned about the 1/8” gap, I would get a premium underlayment for the vinyl and buy a quality vinyl laminate. You should be good to go! Thank you for liking and showing your appreciation for our videos. My apologies about the late reply, Stay safe and healthy and stay tuned for more videos!
Thanks for your awesome videos -- so informative! I was wondering if you had an opinion on DMX One Step 2.0 for under LVP for a basement application. House if from '89 and I do not have the headroom for a full system like this due to existing bulkheads.
Thanks Nathan and that is a great question! I think the Dmx one step is a great product for sure and I would definitely use it exactly like you said! Try to get it on sale or something, we do it all the time! Thanks for watching and I hope you subscribe to our channel to support us! Happy building!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Thank you for the quick reply- - glad to hear it's a good product - there are not a lot of videos about it not put out by DMX itself. After watching your video's I was sad to find you worked in the GTA, if you were in Ottawa we would have had you in for the work in a heartbeat. Keep up the great content!
@@Sully8303 my pleasure Nathan! Thank you for your kind words! I really appreciate it and it would be a pleasure to help in any way, and yes we are in the gta, but you can do it! Just take your time and have fun!
Have you ever tried a Hilt gun instead of Tapcon screws? I used the screws when I did my framing, vacuumed out the holes and still snapped off a bunch if screws now and then.
Good question, we use 1/4 “ thick concrete fasteners. They are very strong and have never snapped. To use the Hilti gun would be a complete disaster. The nails might shoot through the plywood and maybe not go in far enough. They can break the concrete and probably not grab anything and your sheets are already down. Hilti does have a really good concrete fastening screw, if you’re familiar with Hilti check their screw out. We have used them in the past on very old concrete, they are a bit pricey and the ones we have used actually had a torx head. Just use the thicker stronger concrete fasteners anything less than 1/4” is a waste of time. My apologies for not replying sooner, sometimes comment don’t come through right away.
Great video. Did my floor exactly they way your video shows. I'm pretty sure I ended up drilling too deep into the floor as the drill has zero resistance for a few of the holes. All the tapcons were 2.25" and held very easy but concerned about the fact I went too deep on a few. Is this common?
Thank you for enjoying the video, I wouldn’t be to concerned , it does happen, almost sounds like the concrete wasn’t too thick in those areas. How does the floor feel with the new subfloor?
Sorry disregard question found the answer in the below comments, 2" screws into the 5/8 plywood. Love the 2.0 video very well done. I noticed you cut the flat overlap flap away when butting your next row of Delta before tapping the seams together is that correct? Great videos thanks for sharing your experience!
My older house is sagging slightly in the center due to the builders using too long of a span for the floor joists. My question is, If I frame on top of this type of subfloor, will it provide any type of structural support to the floor above and prevent further sagging? Thank you in advance, and thank you for providing these videos
To be honest, I would have to say no, this type of subfloor is designed to be installed on concrete and keep moisture from the concrete at bay. The membrane does not have any structural purpose. I would consult an engineer to get a different solution. You’re most welcome. Thank you for watching!
I think you did great here, but I would not have ran the dampro plastic all the way to the concrete wall. It is important to maintain a space here in the event that you do get moisture, so it can run under the floor, and not on top of the plastic and to your wood subfloor.
Thank you. It was a great video. I am going to follow what you exactly did to floor my basement. Could you please give me the purchasing link for the plywood and Delta MS that you used for the project? For any reason I can't find at Home Depot. Thank You!
Thanks for liking the video, and watching. My apologies I don’t have links to share for the materials I suppose you can google the product you need in your area. We are in Canada and the easiest place to get the materials for the Diyer is Home Depot. Please understand that people around the world maybe watching and wondering the same thing. You need to find a local building supply. I hope this helps, happy holidays!
Thank you Dane! I really appreciate it! You sure can! Just make sure there are no water issues or high moisture content in the concrete! Happy remodelling and thank you again for watching and supporting us!
Thank you very much! It would all depend on the situation, I think out of 80 jobs we put rigid foam 1/2” sheets in 1 job because it was what they wanted and it was in their budget. I don’t think it’s necessary, but thats only my opinion. I hope our videos help you and please feel free to like and comment! Stay safe and healthy!
Awesome video! I was going to do this for my basement which will be my woodshop. Do you think the dimple board method you showed here will hold up to heavy machinery like a 3hp table saw, jointer on castors? Thank you so much
Hello, thanks for the video and your helpful responses to the questions. My basement floor has highs and lows. These are not that obvious but with a long level placed on the floor you can see light coming through. Will the delta underlayment together with 5/8 plywood “smooth “ out these or would you absolutely recommend application of self level compound first. Many Thanks
Thank you for watching, and your kind words, With my apologies, I can’t answer that for you. The plywood system only does so much, and it’s entirely up to you to make the decision on how straight you want your floor. In my experience the 4 x 8 sheets of plywood can ease slight dips up to 1/8”on an 8’ level, basically when you walk over that indifference you won’t feel it. It all depends on how far you want to go. I would recommend that you take at least a 6’ straight edge and check your floor before you start the plywood subfloor system and fill in the areas that can be an issue. I hope that helps,
Just use 2 inch screws into the plywood, read through the comments, you might find a ton of answers. Hope this helps and thanks for watching, don’t forget to like and subscribe please.
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Awesome! thanks for your fast response! Love your vids, very helpful, Im subscribed and liking your vids, keep the good work. Your jobs are very clean and professional!
good evening ... that is a very informative video ..thank you for this :) .. i do have a question as i am doing a basement job at my house ... i rigid foamed all around the basement and wrapped the foundation all around ... now that i have gotten to the floor i am going to use this method but my floor is pretty uneven as i have a floor drain ( older house ) do i need to level it prior and how forgiving is this system on unevenness if my answer is yes to getting it level as i am very rapidly losing ceiling height ... thanks a million
Once I put this down, I will be putting either 3/8 to 9/16 engineered or hardwoods. What length fasteners would I use as not to puncture the delta mat?
Awesome video. Great tips and channel. How many screws do you use per sheet? How many for the first row of plywood sheets and how many for the rest. I calculated that the first row may need 4x6, so 24 screws per sheet. That seems like a lot. Delta suggests 8 per sheet. I'm using 1/4"x2 3/4". Thanks!
Thank you! Everything is in the video and check out this videos description, I have the answer you are looking for ua-cam.com/video/NsSG6uk_ilI/v-deo.html I hope that helps😉 Don’t forget you can always do less if you want that’s entirely up to you. If you watch all the subfloor videos I’m sure it will help you decide. I tried to cover everything in all my videos to help answer everyone’s questions and concerns. It’s all here in one channel. Thank you again for watching! I really appreciate it. Oh and please don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻
The company that manufactures DELTA-MS says it should be used on external applications. It is made from recycled product which might off gas the odour of the product that was contained in the otiginal containers.
That’s interesting, because it doesn’t have any odour or any off gassing in our experience. Can you please provide some documentation to support this? Here is a link on the product check it out let me know your thoughts deltams.ca/calgary-delta-ms-the-wrap/
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Thanks for this helpful video. Here is a link (second hand) that supports what John Dell describes. From joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1943-Floor-covering-in-a-basement, "..when you use post -consumer recycled material (taken from the curbside household blue box), you cannot control the make up of the material. These recycled materials can retain the smell of whatever they contained originally, such as laundry soap or bleach. This is unchanged by the manufacturing process. It is not an issue outside on the foundation wall, but it is very undesirable inside in basement living space. This is why you cannot interchange our DELTA-MS with DELTA-FL, even though the specifications and design look otherwise identical."
This is great thank you for sharing your work. I am about to start my basement in Onntario. Did you add any glue in the tongue and groove? Im thinking it might eliminate potential creaks within the wood.
The walls in my basement already have the drywall installed. How would the installation differ for that install? Would the dimple membrane and the spruce go right against the drywall?
Great question Kelley, you can install the subfloor the same way, just leave a 1/4” gap from the drywall for a bit of expansion and contraction and you should be good to go. I hope that helps, thank you for watching and please don’t forget to subscribe, like and share our videos
How do you handle installing subfloor on a pitched concrete floor? The concrete in one section of my basement has a slope towards the floor drain. How do you work around the floor drain?
It would require an investment in a laser line level. Bosch makes some affordable ones. You would set the laser to the high side, and shim all low points before fastening the osb down. I would recommend composite shims. Also be sure you are running your plastic vapor barrier over the drain so it can't transfer moisture to your subfloor.
There is no good way of doing it, where you wouldn't be inviting moisture in to your subfloor. If the drain serves as a clean out for a finished room, you would need to install a extension ring compatible with your drain, and would need to also add concrete board and a membrane over the osb/plywood to create a barrier. You could also use the concrete board in place of the wood, and seal that.@@eagl3ye
also, I would opt to just install tile flooring directly to the concrete pad, if I was going to be using a floor drain. If you want to match the other flooring system in height, you would have to seal the outside edges and drain, and pour concrete patch that has an adhesion promoter first, to about 3/8" lower than your plywood subfloor, and then your tile would fill in the rest. Alternatively, you accept that the flooring heights will be different, and use an angled transition strip at the doorway.@@eagl3ye
Awesome video and very informative. I do have one question. My concrete basement floor is not completely level and has drains in it. Do I need to put down a self leveling agent before laying this material down? Also, what do I do about the drains? Can I go right over them with this? Thanks!
Joe, I can’t answer that in a text, it is something that has to be seen and checked to come up with a solution onsite. My apologies wish I could answer that.
Good question I think I explained that in the video about myths explained. Check out the library of subfloor videos. We don’t have to because it has the tongue and groove connection. We basically sheet a floor with the same concept like sheeting a floor on top of joists. You can if you want, but it’s not really necessary if you’re using tongue and groove. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos! Don’t forget to subscribe and help us grow!
Hello everyone! In this video I use delta products, only because it is a cost effective dimple membrane and readily available in my area. You can use any dimple membrane available and local to you in your area and country. This is an updated video! Please enjoy and don’t forget to like and subscribe! Here is another subfloor video that can help you out ua-cam.com/video/rQL-IMSKJVQ/v-deo.html Thank you to everyone who has subscribed!
I noticed when you laid down the first row of wood you left 1/8" between the sheets for wood expansion/contraction (which makes perfect sense). There was no gap left on the long edge with the next row, though. Is that a concern?
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 So expansion gap is only needed along the 4' side? I noticed that you used pry bars for the first row to leave 1/8" gap. I didn't notice you used it for the second row. Did you just eye for the second row?
Nicely done! Did you say how thick that plywood is? Sorry if I missed it. Also, I’m thinking of using Advantech in place of the plywood. Any thoughts on that? I have the DMX underlayment product and excited to use it. Thank you again.
Thank you for watching! We used 5/8 “ , they also have 3/4” take a look at our other subfloor videos maybe they can help you also! Stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy!
Great video. Can you please let me know the name of dmx, I didn't carch that in your video. How to do the walls, do you have a video. My basement is unfinished all concrete all along. I want to put carpet. Thank you
Thanks jack, you can use any simple membrane that you want and that you feel is good. You don’t have to use the same one we use. All the simple membranes are basically the same. Unfortunately, I don’t have a video on how to do the walls. I will be working on one soon. Jack, you can always subscribe to stay tuned for more videos coming soon. Stay tuned and stay healthy. Happy holidays! Thanks for watching.
Misael Gavia yes of course you can. I would install an uncoupling membrane before the tile installation. If everything is done properly it should last all a very long time. You can also install the tile on the concrete with the uncoupling membrane and no plywood. Stay safe and healthy!
Great video! I am planning to use your system for my house. The only question I have is what tape did you use to seal the membrane? I didn’t catch that in the video and couldn’t find an answer in the comments. Thanks!
Wow Edward what a fantastic video. I do have a question for you if you don't mind: If I have roughed in plumbing, should I be installing my subfloor around my rough in plumbing, or does my toilet gasket need to be in contact with the concrete?
I think a plumber that actually sees the job that you’re doing can answer that better than me. In saying this, the actual subfloor plywood is just like any subfloor in any house. When doing the rough in for the flange, it’s always nice to have the top of the flange flush or above the plywood and only higher to accommodate the flooring you will install in your bathroom. So your finish flange should be flush with your finished flooring. If that’s not possible, you can always add a thicker gasket when installing the toilet. Hope that helps
Fantastic video - I've put the same exact product in the 8 and 6ft sheets of delta MS down in my basement, and tried to put carpeting on top, as suggested by delta without first putting plywood...it's was way too wavy, and unfortunately has to stop installation due to the waves not being weighed down by the pad and carpet. I do not necissarily want to put down plywood because of the cost associated so I have to either take a loss on the cost of the delta MS or figure out an alternative, any advice?
Max, the only thing I can think of is plywood, minimum 3/8 “ thick. Doesn’t have to be tongue and groove plywood. I wish there was a different alternative. Hopefully one of our subscribers has a different idea? Thank you for watching!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Maybe try OSB tongue and groove if it's cheaper but really plywood seems like the way to go in most harsh environments
You tried to save cost on plywood but ended up losing it on time with the carpet not being able to be installed.... Always best to do things the right way so you don't have to do it twice. Plywood ontop is the ONLY solution in order to use the delta
Hello Edward, Thanks for the informative video. How would the Delta membrane be incorporated with rigid foam boards on the exterior walls of a basement. Would it extend under the foam or would you leave a gap. Keep up the good work!!! Thanks again.
Good question! I would leave a gap, the delta doesn’t have to be tight against any walls or insulation. 1/2” in your case should be fine. The gap of the plywood could be up to 1” . Hope that helps, and thanks! Stay safe and healthy!
Great video. Question for you: the previous owner of my house seemed to have put tiles right onto the concrete basement floor. If I want to install laminate, do I go over the tiles or do I have to remove the tiles?
Great question! As long as the tile seems solid, I don’t really see a reason why you have to remove the tile. Most laminates will hold up in a case like yours. Just make sure you get an underlayment to support the laminate. You can check out our how to install laminate series to see how to install laminate and to see a type of under underlayment. It all depends on how much work you feel fit in your case to take on. Removing the tile from the concrete will take a fair amount of work. If you leave the tile keep in mind that you just raised the floor up whatever the thickness of the laminate you will be installing. With this in mind you might have to cut the jambs of the doors to fit the laminate under for a nice finish, also the height of the doors and maybe a 1/4 round or moulding of some sort that you might have will have to be reinstalled or replaced. In saying all this, it’s up to you, do you remove the tile or just adjust for the extra height you just added. I honestly don’t think that it’s necessary to remove the tile, to install any laminate. A great laminate in your case would be a vinyl. The technology on vinyl laminate has come a long way and has great benefits over a wood laminate and they have vinyl laminated that look just like wood. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 thanks so much for the detailed reply, appreciate it. I should add that the main reason I’m looking at laminate is because of how cold the tiles are, so was hoping it could help create a separation from the cold. In terms of underlayment, are there any you recommend to help with insulation?
@@twiincentral8780 my pleasure. In that case you can add 1/2’ styrofoam (aka rigid foam) on top of the existing tiled floor or dmx. To gain a warmer floor, i would say the rigid foam would help with a warmer floor. Or just remove the tile and install a subfloor like in this video and then install laminate with a underlayment. Installing any type of flooring on plywood with a membrane is always a different feel and warmth to it. If your looking for more warmth, between a vinyl laminate and wood laminate, I would say the wood will retain a slightly better r value. Everything depends on your budget and the amount of work it would take, to get the job done. In regards to suggesting a good underlayment, unfortunately I can’t suggest anything other than seeing what’s available to you and doing the homework on the one you think is best. I say this because, every country, every city and or any region has suppliers and every one offers different products. Its all up you to do your homework on that one.
When building your walls and securing your bottom plates to your subfloor are you nailing/screwing into the 5/8" subfloor plywood only or are you drilling into the cement slab and securing your bottom plate with longer Tapcon screws to the cement slab?
Best way is to build the walls once the floor is done. Build the walls on top of the floor and use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood. I hope this helps, happy holidays!
Quick question about your first row. Tongue goes towards the foundation, this row do you screw near the tongue? I see the other rows you didn’t screw at the tongue, curious if the first row you do
Great question! Tongue goes against the foundation, yes. I don’t screw any tongue edge, not necessary, because the tongue and groove connection with the screws on the groove side does it all, that’s why we use tongue and groove. I don’t screw the edge against the foundation because when we build walls on top (outer walls, on the foundation side) we fasten through the bottoms plate, plywood and into the concrete with longer screws and avoid fastening with concrete fasteners twice. Hope that helps !
Yes absolutely, we do it all the time if it’s the customers budget. If you look closely towards the end of the video it shows that the walls are built on top. I actually prefer to do the complete subfloor before we frame walls. Thank for watching Mahmoud! Stay safe and healthy!
Thank you, and yes we do where it’s needed for sure. If you want to see a video on self levelling cement here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/OO8rnBY_3yot/v-deo.htmlay Stay safe and healthy and happy holidays.
Thanks for sharing this video ! Your floor seems 100% level. What if my 1000sqft basement is not level. I have a room with a lot of deflection. Maybe Sleeper subfloor ?
You’re welcome, what your looking for is a straight floor not necessarily level, best way is to use floor leveler before you start the subfloor. We do this when the floor has humps and dips. Have you subscribed? We have a few great videos on basements. Check this video out, it is your solution ua-cam.com/video/OO8rnBY_3yo/v-deo.html
Been searching on YT for this information. Great job! I would like to use this system in a pole building with a cement floor. It addresses all my concerns but 1: R value. Is that really a concern on the floor? I intend to install this and frame partition walls on top of it. Pretty sure that's not possible if I use foam board as an insulator. Your thoughts. PS - thanks and subscribed!
Thank you for enjoying the video and the positive feedback! I wouldn’t worry so much about the r-value on the floor,, just by adding the plywood it will feel cozier. You can certainly add rigid foam, you would need longer screws. We have done, delta, rigid foam and plywood. As for framing the walls, as long as they are just partitions and are not load bearing, you can build them right on top. We do it all the time in basements and have no issues. I hope this helps and thank you especially for subscribing, I’m great full! Let me know how it goes! Happy new year!
I'd be afraid to 😬crack my slab foundation in Texas homes on a slab shift a lot throughout the year!!! What about plumbing going under the slab 😬 better use glue imho
I have the same question that no one has answered from other videos...I've come to conclusion that we should take the time to fasten them not because they will move/slide...but because the wood can warp over time thus creating humps which then you will totally notice with the vinyl flooring
In the industry, we always fasten subfloors. There is no exception to this. Your plywood or osb decking is your solid platform for other materials to properly fasten to, or float on top of. You don't want this sliding, swelling, warping, etc. We are talking about thousands of dollars in investment. Don't compromise it by skimping on fasteners. Even the paperwork on those 2x2 osb panels with the plastic and foam on the bottom, recommend that you fasten them down in most situations.
Yes that will work fine, and just fasten the sheet down the same way as I demonstrated in my videos on the 8ft side that doesn’t have the tongue. Is there a shortage of building materials in your area?
You’re welcome! One bit usually does about 20 to 25 sheets before they start slowing down, more or less about 800 square ft. I usually buy them in bulk and when on sale. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Dricore polypropylene membrane is 1/4" thick plus 1/2" OSB. Why not use 1/2" spruce plywood with DMX Step1 or AG product? Why 5/8" if 1/2" is minimum requirement by code in Ontario? You save a little in head height. Just asking...
Phumes, you can definitely use 1/2” plywood. We don’t only because we are using tongue and groove plywood. I don’t know what’s easily available in your area. They also make 3/8” tongue and groove but it’s not readily available to us. There is no code to what thickness of plywood used in a basement subfloor. So don’t worry about that. Use what works for you. You can even use 3/8” plywood. Please understand that our videos are not here to dictate what you have to do. It’s your project, you need to weigh the odds, benefits and costs for yourself. I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and stay tuned for more videos!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Understood - I also noticed that only 5/8" & 3/4" plywood or OSB come in tongue and groove. If I did 1/2" plywood I would need to tapcon all four sides. - Thanks
Build show does something similar with 1" foam board, then 2 floating 5/8 boards, staggered, glued together with subfloor spray foam in b/w. I was thinking about going with this approach but replacing foam with delta. My only concern is that my floor isn't perfectly level (I plan on carpeting+tile, don't think planks will work with unlevel floors). Do you think a floating 1 1/4 (2x5/8) will be enough or would you recommend tapconning the delta and 1st 5/8 then staggering, gluing+screwing down the second 5/8?
@@shahsmerdis Still WIP. So far, I'm thinking a single board, screwed down to delta. Once I have some installs, it if feels unstable, I'll add another 5/8" board, staggered. Just don't like the idea of such a thick base.
@@shahsmerdis I started laying down the boards. If you want tile, I think 2 boards is needed. But if you’re using vinyl, foam pad, dimple board and 3/4” board is more than enough. Without the foam padding, the dimple board was super loud.
Very informative, great video. Is there a particular reason you go with the Delta-MS over the Delta-FL? Any suggestions on how to purchase Delta products? I live in the states and will need to order online.
You don’t need to use the delta mat or any delta products. Any dimple membrane available to you locally will do. I only use it because it’s easily available in my area. I have answered this various times. Check out the comments, there is a ton of info in the comments sections.
I'm about to do this job in my basement, the outer walls were framed, insulated and covered with a plastic sheet vapor barrier. My plan is to install the dmx all the way to the plastic vapor barrier and tape the seams against the wall. In your case you might have to cut the drywall with a straight edge, exposing enough room for dmx and plywood. Also allowing you to seal up against your vapor barrier.
Thanks for this video. I want to apply a floor to a concrete garage. Do I need to lay a barrier or would direct glue on without a barrier layer work? Thank you for sharing this.
You’re welcome, let me see if I understand what you’re asking. I would use the same system, I wouldn’t put wood directly on the concrete. The concrete will always have moisture in it and will eventually cause problems with wood directly on it. Hope this helps
I’m happy to hear that I could help. Don’t forget to subscribe and stay tuned for more videos! Thank you again for watching. My apologies for not getting back sooner, but I’m pretty sure I was asleep when you asked and it has been a very busy morning. Stay safe and healthy and Happy New Year!
In the start of your video you had house wrap outside of the studs. Do you have a video on that? I’m doing a 100 year old basement and need to get the damp smell out. I’ll use this flooring method. Never had any water in the basement.. but humidity does make its way through the wall. It’s currently finished (sometime in the 60s) and has that old basement smell
@@danhoy8356 I don’t have a video on the house wrap,but it’s very simple,just hang it from the top. You can tape the seams but it’s not 100% necessary. If I was you, I would certainly get a dehumidifier running 24/7 for as long as you can. Depending on the scope of your finishing, the more you can demo and dispose of the old build the better. The smell is coming from the old stuff. I hope this helps
Hi, regards from Lima - Peru. Very nice video, let me ask you this question. What’s that 1” space for? The one along the foundation. I know it’s a little different placing the underlay on a basement rather than a floor room located on the top of a 6 story building.
We always start with the edges first because it’s marked like I showed in the video and the edges become your guide to fasten the sheet in the body of the sheet.(center)
Thank you so much for making your videos, they have been of great help. I'm subscribed! In the video, you used 1/4" 2-3/4" screws but in your video description it says to use 3/16" 2-1/4" screws. Which ones should I actually use?
My pleasure Aaron! Great question, you can use 2 1/4 x 1/4”. I was using the 2 3/4” because my supplier ran out of 2 1/4”. I will have to look at the description and adjust it. Thank you for subscribing! I really appreciate it! We could use all the help that we can get.
@@ronstrode9124 it would be to unpredictable, definitely not recommended for a ton of reasons, you can definitely try it. Have you ever used one of those fastening guns?
I took a leap of faith as a reasonably capable DIY’r and used this approach. I am quite pleased with the outcome overall. I used the DELTA-MS 6.0 ft and ¾” T&G plywood as illustrated here. The results were good in that the under-foot feel of the sub-floor is great (no noises) and peace-of-mind that I have a moisture management system in place is great! One additional benefit is that I learned what those diamond markings on the tape measure are used for in the trade. I also justified the purchase of a SDS drill which was a pure pleasure to use. Thumbs up!
Thank you Don! It’s very heart warming to hear from you and that you’re enjoying a great system! Stay tuned for more videos and please stay safe and healthy! Happy holidays!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Hey. Can you frame over this dimple underlayment before installing the plywood?
@@falsealarmno I’m sure you can, as long as it’s just a partition and not load bearing.
Why would you want to do this? Just curious
I have been watching a ton of videos of subfloors in a basement. I have to be honest and say that this man has it down packed! Great library on the subject, all my questions are answered after watching Edwards videos and reading through the comments👍🏻
Wow, thanks!
This video was extremely helpful. I am using Advantech over Eco Cork Foam for a slab on grade application. I was going to let the Advantech float but now, I am going to use your technique to attach to the slab. The silicone pre-injection was brilliant! Thank you.
Fantastic job.
I started half my basement with dricore and was planning on continuing with it. I purchased some new dricore 6 months after starting and they have made the product thinner to save money and keep the product the same price. I took them back and bought some DMX AG same product as what you use. Just brought the tongue and groove ply in yesterday. Hoping it turns out as nice as yours
That is awesome!
This video is better than most if not all of the larger channels on sub flooring! I appreciate the small details like vacuuming out the holes and using silicone, most don't do the extra work. Glad I stumbled across this vid, thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your kind words! Please stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy! It’s my pleasure!
I really appreciate this and the last vid on it. I'm convinced to go this route when I start my basement this fall
principled gamer thank you very much! Stay tuned for more video on some tips. Happy basement building! If you ever have any questions I’m here to help! Stay safe and healthy!
Thank you, Edward. Watching this video confirmed how I wanted to lay the sub-floor in my shop.
My pleasure Bob! I’m happy to hear that this video helped you!
I like the silicone idea. Have not seen that before!
Thanks Jorden! It works very well in so many ways! Thank you again for watching and sharing your comments 👍🏻
i liked the 19" diamond on the tape. just when you thought you seen most things .... lol
Did this when I finished my basement, tap conned the subfloor down and did all the wall framing between the subfloor and joists so underneath the whole subfloor was open. Worked perfectly as I accidentally flooded the basement a couple days later when I left the electricity off down there overnight and it rained. With the breakers off, the sump pump was too. None of the water contacted the plywood and it just took me a few hours to dry underneath with a fan and sweeping the water to the sump pump (after I hooked it back up).
He seems like a really nice guy🤗🤗🤗.
Thank you very much! Please stay safe and healthy! 😊
The best video on topic! Answered all my questions is a simple way! THANK YOU!!!
Thank you so much for watching and your compliment! Stay tuned for more videos and please check out our library on subfloor videos! Stay safe and healthy!
Thanks for the video and thorough explanation of your approach and solid advice. Looking through the comments and the video I see in your area you can put the framing on top of the subfloor. Here in CO our soils are very expansive and code requires a PT bottom plate + 2" space then standard framing bottom plate and wall. The two bottom plates fastened to the concrete in a manner to allow heaving/expansion of concrete. I will have to chat with building department on whether the walls can sit on the subfloor or put in subfloor after framing is complete sealing the joint where plywood and PT bottom plate meet. Suggest anyone contemplating this approach for their basement verify with your local building dept. or it will be a very disappointing framing inspection day.
Best damn explanation I've ever seen. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you so much Donald! I really appreciate your kind words and support!
I wanted cement floors but realized it would cost too much to have done professionally..so I started to do it myself with self leveling cement filling in all the divots from the tack stripping..it would take me forever since I would be doing it myself..then I thought what about laying a plywood floor so here I am looking at this amazing video..I think this will work for what I am looking for..thank you so much for speaking slowly and demonstrating how to put in a perfect tongue and groove floor..my only question is should there be a filler where the 4 foot pieces meet each other?
P L McClain thank you for watching. To answer your question, no just follow the instructions and you will be fine. Stay safe and healthy!
thank you for sharing with this. bless your heart and stay healthy.
🎉
Thank you for watching and your kind words!
Happy new year!
I hope you can help by subscribing, I have more good videos that may help you!
Fabulous! Love how meticulous you are.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your kind words!
Fantastic video
Thank you very much for watching! Stay safe and healthy!
This guy’s good, a real pro!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for your video. So well done I could even smell the plywood :-). Really helpful.
Cesar Juarez thank you for watching! I’m so happy to know you liked it and it helps! Stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy! 😃
Well done, thank you.
My pleasure! Thank you for watching! Stay safe and healthy!
Absolutely great video my friend!! Very informative and helpful.
Very good video.
Thank you very much! Please stay tuned and subscribe for more coming soon! Stay safe and healthy!
Great video! Starting my basement this month have absolutely no knowledge so I’ll be using this video thank you! Do you have a video of the framing after the sub floor?
Thank you! That’s great to hear, I don’t have a video on the framing yet, stay tuned!
Thank you for this expert technique and superb video, absolutely beautiful work👍 Would you also recommend a layer of foamboard for insulation from the cold coming from the underneath of the cement slab? Txs and very best..
Thank you for your kind words! To be honest if it’s in your budget you sure can, but I don’t think it’s necessary. Your basement slab is usually above freezing temperatures. Just doing the subfloor like in this video will change everything!
If you do just remember to use longer screws, I wouldn’t go thicker than a half inch foam board. So if you add 1/2 “ foam board add half inch more to the length of your screws.
Happy building!
Don’t forget to subscribe and help us grow!
Thank you again!
Do you recommend putting in the subfloor then frame the wall or frame the walls and fill in the space with the subfloor? Ive seen it done both ways. Nice vid by the way. Well done and nicely explained. Txs
Mark, I definitely recommend doing the floor first. So much easier and will keep any moisture away from the framing. Check out some other comments about your question. Thanks I really appreciate your kind words! Makes sharing these videos so worth it! Thank you for watching! Stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy!
If the goal is to create uniform vapor barrier on the walls and floor, a couple of questions about this approach come to mind.
1/ If we are sealing the concrete floor from moisture management how do we handle the transition from a sealed area to a sump pump?
2/ How do we handle the “furnace room” or area under an already installed furnace/filter/H2O Tank/etc.?
Great question Dan, 1- this system is not a vapour barrier, it’s more just to stop the humidity that the concrete exhumes.
2- we never do the furnace room or the sump room or the area where the water tank is. Most cases they are all more less in the same area. It’s left without the subfloor. Hopefully you have a drain there.
When I do the subfloor, prior to building walls I leave the plywood and membrane a little longer until I square off the area and chalk all the lines for all the walls and then just cut the plywood to these areas for the bottom plate to be installed on top of the plywood.
So, when it comes to a vapour barrier to the walls , you use acoustical sealant at the bottom if you need to.
I think I’m understanding your question, did I miss anything?
Don’t forget we are not trying to create a submarine here, we want to keep the plywood nice and dry from moisture that exhumes from the concrete.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Quick question. What is the recommended plywood thickness?
5/8 “ is recommended. 3/8” is available but rare. They also have 3/4”.
We always use 5/8” tongue and groove and I highly recommend spruce as opposed to OSB. Hope this helps!
Thank you for watching and stay tuned for more videos to come!
Stay safe and healthy and happy holidays!
Thanks so much for the awesome videos! If I were to do this in an older home with the basement walls already finished would it be necessary to seal the waterproofing membrane to the bottom plate of the walls or would it be better to leave a 1/4 inch gap to allow the concrete to breathe?
You’re welcome, I wouldn’t bother sealing the floor to any walls. Leave a 1/4 gap for expansion and air flow to keep the concrete below as dry as it can get.
Has anyone told you that you have to create a a vapour barrier from a subfloor to a wall after having the walls built in a basement?
Really appreciate your sharing and ur work thank you!
Steven Luu thank you for appreciating this video and your kind words. To help you understand our system and the lack of 2 x 4,,,
The dimple membrane replaces the 2 x 4s and is so superior to that old school system for so many reasons. The plywood does work very well with our system. No need for any wood materials under flooring today, because the membrane and the fasteners on the plywood do all the work. Please take the time to watch all our subfloor videos, I promise you will see how it all works like magic together! Thank you again,, please feel free to ask questions, I will always try my best to help you! Stay safe and healthy!
Awesome video! What are your thoughts on putting landscaping fabric underneath the membrane for the subfloor? A youtuber mentioned that it would reduce the noise... Thanks!
Thanks! Sorry for the late response, I have tried to reply earlier, for some reason I don’t see it , in my opinion I wouldn’t do it, check the other subfloor videos I have, tips and trick and how to fasten the plywood.
Bow Taicho thanks! Check out our videos in me discussing that,,
My thoughts as a professional, I wouldn’t bother and these videos will explain why.
ua-cam.com/video/rQL-IMSKJVQ/v-deo.html
Especially this one,
ua-cam.com/video/NsSG6uk_ilI/v-deo.html
Don’t forget to subscribe and 👍🏻
Thanks again for watching! Stay safe and healthy!
Great video, looking at going this route for my basement. Curious about framing though, do you frame over the subfloor and tapcon screw sole plate to concrete or frame first then subfloor around walls. What are the benefits of framing over subfloor if any.
Took the question right out of my mouth
Thank you Chris! If you’re going to do a subfloor like this and start your basement. Do the floor first. Then build the walls on top. We don’t use concrete fasteners to attach the bottom plate to the subfloor, we just use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood. You can also use 2” 1/4” wood screws also. If you want you can use concrete fasteners, its up to you.
The benefits are you can chalk all your lines on the plywood after you square off the basement and do your layout a little easier. You don’t have to worry about the bottom plate being anywhere near the concrete. (If you put the bottom plate on the concrete you will need to put a gasket or 6 mil poly under the plate.) Framing on the subfloor, eliminates the need for the gasket because you have the dimple membrane already. In my opinion its a better job to keep any wood away from the concrete. Also its easier to do the subfloor through the areas in the basement without having to do so many more cuts around walls that were built first.
If you watch the video to the end you will see pics of the walls framed on top.
Check out the description for the screws, bits and drill I use for this project.
Please read through all the comments, I have answered this before briefly.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos!
Stay safe and healthy, Happy New Year and thanks for watching!
@@andrewmathis4707 your question is answered take a read at my reply to Chris Kowalchuk. You can also set your comments settings to newest first and take a read through to some good questions and answers. Happy New Year!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 you are my hero! Thank you so much for this. Framing the walls on top of the subfloor (finished product at end of this video) is a video I cant find anywhere on youtube. Would be awesome to have one from you. That would clear this topic up for all.
Awesome video! Subscribed!! 😎👍
Thanks so much! I’m so happy to hear that you liked the video and great full for your support! 👍🏻😊
this is a excellent video-question: how do you adjust for an existing exterior leading door when raising the floor level?
raise the threshold, cut the bottom of the door.
Love your video! I was wondering if would you recommend doing that for an entire basement before putting walls/divisions? If so, would you then do the similar drill and caulk approach for the bottom plate to secure it to the concrete slab?
I have answered this before,
You can sheet the area you want finished and frame your walls on top, just use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood.
Hi Edward, thanks a lot for this very great video it is well detailed and very easy to follow for DIY beginners. I have a question regarding the basement bathroom. Do you use the same subfloor system to cover the bathroom or do you leave the concrete slab there ? If you keep the concrete as is how do you manage the transition between the bathroom floor and the other rooms in term of high in order to be flush from one room to another. Finally do still build the bathroom framing on the plywood ? thanks a lot for your help
Thank you!
I have done it both ways,, it all depends on the job. here’s a video that can help you,
Please don’t forget to subscribe!
Thanks again for watching!
Really awesome video! I have a home that has a '3 season' above-grade room that has concrete slab floor. We are in central Texas, very hot and fairly humid summers. We're thinking of installing vinyl-plank flooring in this room. Would you suggest the Delta product + subfloor + and then vinyl planks? Any reason I should consider rigid foam sheets above the Delta layer? Last question, with the 1/8" space between plywood sheets, would those spaces 'telegraph' through the vinyl planks (where you can 'observe' the plywood sheet spacing through the vinyl plank contouring?) Thank you for your video, it is really helpful!
Thank you! I would just use the delta membrane , plywood. Just like in our videos. No need to use any rigid foam sheets. If you’re concerned about the 1/8” gap, I would get a premium underlayment for the vinyl and buy a quality vinyl laminate. You should be good to go! Thank you for liking and showing your appreciation for our videos. My apologies about the late reply,
Stay safe and healthy and stay tuned for more videos!
Thanks for your awesome videos -- so informative! I was wondering if you had an opinion on DMX One Step 2.0 for under LVP for a basement application. House if from '89 and I do not have the headroom for a full system like this due to existing bulkheads.
Thanks Nathan and that is a great question! I think the Dmx one step is a great product for sure and I would definitely use it exactly like you said! Try to get it on sale or something, we do it all the time!
Thanks for watching and I hope you subscribe to our channel to support us!
Happy building!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Thank you for the quick reply- - glad to hear it's a good product - there are not a lot of videos about it not put out by DMX itself. After watching your video's I was sad to find you worked in the GTA, if you were in Ottawa we would have had you in for the work in a heartbeat. Keep up the great content!
@@Sully8303 my pleasure Nathan! Thank you for your kind words! I really appreciate it and it would be a pleasure to help in any way, and yes we are in the gta, but you can do it! Just take your time and have fun!
Have you ever tried a Hilt gun instead of Tapcon screws? I used the screws when I did my framing, vacuumed out the holes and still snapped off a bunch if screws now and then.
Good question, we use 1/4 “ thick concrete fasteners. They are very strong and have never snapped. To use the Hilti gun would be a complete disaster. The nails might shoot through the plywood and maybe not go in far enough. They can break the concrete and probably not grab anything and your sheets are already down. Hilti does have a really good concrete fastening screw, if you’re familiar with Hilti check their screw out. We have used them in the past on very old concrete, they are a bit pricey and the ones we have used actually had a torx head. Just use the thicker stronger concrete fasteners anything less than 1/4” is a waste of time. My apologies for not replying sooner, sometimes comment don’t come through right away.
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 thanks for the reply and explanation. It was very quick.
Great video. Did my floor exactly they way your video shows. I'm pretty sure I ended up drilling too deep into the floor as the drill has zero resistance for a few of the holes. All the tapcons were 2.25" and held very easy but concerned about the fact I went too deep on a few. Is this common?
Thank you for enjoying the video, I wouldn’t be to concerned , it does happen, almost sounds like the concrete wasn’t too thick in those areas. How does the floor feel with the new subfloor?
Floor feels solid. Thanks for the reply
Sorry disregard question found the answer in the below comments, 2" screws into the 5/8 plywood. Love the 2.0 video very well done. I noticed you cut the flat overlap flap away when butting your next row of Delta before tapping the seams together is that correct? Great videos thanks for sharing your experience!
My older house is sagging slightly in the center due to the builders using too long of a span for the floor joists. My question is, If I frame on top of this type of subfloor, will it provide any type of structural support to the floor above and prevent further sagging? Thank you in advance, and thank you for providing these videos
To be honest, I would have to say no, this type of subfloor is designed to be installed on concrete and keep moisture from the concrete at bay. The membrane does not have any structural purpose. I would consult an engineer to get a different solution. You’re most welcome. Thank you for watching!
I think you did great here, but I would not have ran the dampro plastic all the way to the concrete wall. It is important to maintain a space here in the event that you do get moisture, so it can run under the floor, and not on top of the plastic and to your wood subfloor.
I leave 1” space from the concrete wall.
Excellent !!
Thank you. It was a great video. I am going to follow what you exactly did to floor my basement. Could you please give me the purchasing link for the plywood and Delta MS that you used for the project? For any reason I can't find at Home Depot. Thank You!
Thanks for liking the video, and watching. My apologies I don’t have links to share for the materials I suppose you can google the product you need in your area. We are in Canada and the easiest place to get the materials for the Diyer is Home Depot. Please understand that people around the world maybe watching and wondering the same thing. You need to find a local building supply.
I hope this helps, happy holidays!
Subscribed. Great video. Can I use 5/8 OSB board instead of plywood ?
Thank you Dane! I really appreciate it! You sure can! Just make sure there are no water issues or high moisture content in the concrete! Happy remodelling and thank you again for watching and supporting us!
Awesome video! Would you put any rigid foam insulation over the dimpled membrane if there is none under the slab?
Thank you very much! It would all depend on the situation, I think out of 80 jobs we put rigid foam 1/2” sheets in 1 job because it was what they wanted and it was in their budget. I don’t think it’s necessary, but thats only my opinion. I hope our videos help you and please feel free to like and comment! Stay safe and healthy!
Awesome video! I was going to do this for my basement which will be my woodshop. Do you think the dimple board method you showed here will hold up to heavy machinery like a 3hp table saw, jointer on castors? Thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
That’s a good question, it should hold up. The dimple membrane is tough and the plywood is also. You should be good!
Have fun!
Hello, thanks for the video and your helpful responses to the questions.
My basement floor has highs and lows. These are not that obvious but with a long level placed on the floor you can see light coming through.
Will the delta underlayment together with 5/8 plywood “smooth “ out these or would you absolutely recommend application of self level compound first.
Many Thanks
Thank you for watching, and your kind words,
With my apologies, I can’t answer that for you.
The plywood system only does so much, and it’s entirely up to you to make the decision on how straight you want your floor.
In my experience the 4 x 8 sheets of plywood can ease slight dips up to 1/8”on an 8’ level, basically when you walk over that indifference you won’t feel it.
It all depends on how far you want to go.
I would recommend that you take at least a 6’ straight edge and check your floor before you start the plywood subfloor system and fill in the areas that can be an issue.
I hope that helps,
Thankyou for the great vid. Just a quick question> when framing on top of subfloor you go through the concrete or just fasten it to the plywood?
Just use 2 inch screws into the plywood, read through the comments, you might find a ton of answers.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching, don’t forget to like and subscribe please.
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Awesome! thanks for your fast response! Love your vids, very helpful, Im subscribed and liking your vids, keep the good work. Your jobs are very clean and professional!
@@julianantun1735 Thank you very much! Stay safe and healthy and have fun with your project!😉
good evening ... that is a very informative video ..thank you for this :) .. i do have a question as i am doing a basement job at my house ... i rigid foamed all around the basement and wrapped the foundation all around ... now that i have gotten to the floor i am going to use this method but my floor is pretty uneven as i have a floor drain ( older house ) do i need to level it prior and how forgiving is this system on unevenness if my answer is yes to getting it level as i am very rapidly losing ceiling height ... thanks a million
Once I put this down, I will be putting either 3/8 to 9/16 engineered or hardwoods.
What length fasteners would I use as not to puncture the delta mat?
Well done and explained well!
Thanks so much Daniel!
Awesome video. Great tips and channel.
How many screws do you use per sheet?
How many for the first row of plywood sheets and how many for the rest. I calculated that the first row may need 4x6, so 24 screws per sheet. That seems like a lot. Delta suggests 8 per sheet. I'm using 1/4"x2 3/4". Thanks!
Thank you! Everything is in the video and check out this videos description, I have the answer you are looking for ua-cam.com/video/NsSG6uk_ilI/v-deo.html
I hope that helps😉
Don’t forget you can always do less if you want that’s entirely up to you. If you watch all the subfloor videos I’m sure it will help you decide.
I tried to cover everything in all my videos to help answer everyone’s questions and concerns. It’s all here in one channel.
Thank you again for watching! I really appreciate it.
Oh and please don’t forget to subscribe 👍🏻
The company that manufactures DELTA-MS says it should be used on external applications. It is made from recycled product which might off gas the odour of the product that was contained in the otiginal containers.
That’s interesting, because it doesn’t have any odour or any off gassing in our experience. Can you please provide some documentation to support this?
Here is a link on the product check it out let me know your thoughts deltams.ca/calgary-delta-ms-the-wrap/
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Thanks for this helpful video.
Here is a link (second hand) that supports what John Dell describes.
From joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1943-Floor-covering-in-a-basement, "..when you use post -consumer recycled material (taken from the curbside household blue box), you cannot control the make up of the material. These recycled materials can retain the smell of whatever they contained originally, such as laundry soap or bleach. This is unchanged by the manufacturing process. It is not an issue outside on the foundation wall, but it is very undesirable inside in basement living space. This is why you cannot interchange our DELTA-MS with DELTA-FL, even though the specifications and design look otherwise identical."
Does the concert floor need to be level before?
No
This is great thank you for sharing your work. I am about to start my basement in Onntario. Did you add any glue in the tongue and groove? Im thinking it might eliminate potential creaks within the wood.
Thanks, no we don’t glue the tongue and groove, there are no nails to make the plywood creak. Never had any creaks from the plywood.
The walls in my basement already have the drywall installed. How would the installation differ for that install? Would the dimple membrane and the spruce go right against the drywall?
Great question Kelley, you can install the subfloor the same way, just leave a 1/4” gap from the drywall for a bit of expansion and contraction and you should be good to go.
I hope that helps, thank you for watching and please don’t forget to subscribe, like and share our videos
Question about utility room. Would you put an 80 gallon boiler on this?
No
How do you handle installing subfloor on a pitched concrete floor? The concrete in one section of my basement has a slope towards the floor drain. How do you work around the floor drain?
Here for the same question
It would require an investment in a laser line level. Bosch makes some affordable ones. You would set the laser to the high side, and shim all low points before fastening the osb down. I would recommend composite shims. Also be sure you are running your plastic vapor barrier over the drain so it can't transfer moisture to your subfloor.
@@JasonEllingsworth This is a fantastic answer, thanks. What about extending the drain so it sits over the subfloor? Is there a way to do that?
There is no good way of doing it, where you wouldn't be inviting moisture in to your subfloor. If the drain serves as a clean out for a finished room, you would need to install a extension ring compatible with your drain, and would need to also add concrete board and a membrane over the osb/plywood to create a barrier. You could also use the concrete board in place of the wood, and seal that.@@eagl3ye
also, I would opt to just install tile flooring directly to the concrete pad, if I was going to be using a floor drain. If you want to match the other flooring system in height, you would have to seal the outside edges and drain, and pour concrete patch that has an adhesion promoter first, to about 3/8" lower than your plywood subfloor, and then your tile would fill in the rest.
Alternatively, you accept that the flooring heights will be different, and use an angled transition strip at the doorway.@@eagl3ye
Awesome video and very informative. I do have one question. My concrete basement floor is not completely level and has drains in it. Do I need to put down a self leveling agent before laying this material down? Also, what do I do about the drains? Can I go right over them with this? Thanks!
Joe, I can’t answer that in a text, it is something that has to be seen and checked to come up with a solution onsite. My apologies wish I could answer that.
Thank you for the video! Can you help me find 5/8 spruce plywood? A link/store name would be awesome. Thank you!
Dillon McCormick they sell it at all the big box stores and lumber yards. Just google and search 5/8 tongue and groove plywood. Thanks for watching.
Hi awesome video, I'm wondering what is the reasoning for not driving screws on one of the 8' edges of the sheets. Thanks!
Good question I think I explained that in the video about myths explained. Check out the library of subfloor videos. We don’t have to because it has the tongue and groove connection. We basically sheet a floor with the same concept like sheeting a floor on top of joists. You can if you want, but it’s not really necessary if you’re using tongue and groove. I hope this helps!
Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos! Don’t forget to subscribe and help us grow!
Hello everyone! In this video I use delta products, only because it is a cost effective dimple membrane and readily available in my area. You can use any dimple membrane available and local to you in your area and country. This is an updated video! Please enjoy and don’t forget to like and subscribe! Here is another subfloor video that can help you out ua-cam.com/video/rQL-IMSKJVQ/v-deo.html
Thank you to everyone who has subscribed!
I noticed when you laid down the first row of wood you left 1/8" between the sheets for wood expansion/contraction (which makes perfect sense). There was no gap left on the long edge with the next row, though. Is that a concern?
If you’re taking about along the 8’ side, The tongue and groove in the plywood is designed for expansion, so its not a concern.
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 So expansion gap is only needed along the 4' side? I noticed that you used pry bars for the first row to leave 1/8" gap. I didn't notice you used it for the second row. Did you just eye for the second row?
The gap is there
Nicely done! Did you say how thick that plywood is? Sorry if I missed it. Also, I’m thinking of using Advantech in place of the plywood. Any thoughts on that? I have the DMX underlayment product and excited to use it. Thank you again.
Thank you for watching! We used 5/8 “ , they also have 3/4” take a look at our other subfloor videos maybe they can help you also! Stay tuned for more videos and stay safe and healthy!
Thank you for the super quick reply”! I subscribed to your Chanel and look forward to your next video.
Thanks sooo much!! If you ever need any advice I’m always here!👍🏻
Great video. Can you please let me know the name of dmx, I didn't carch that in your video.
How to do the walls, do you have a video. My basement is unfinished all concrete all along. I want to put carpet. Thank you
Thanks jack, you can use any simple membrane that you want and that you feel is good. You don’t have to use the same one we use. All the simple membranes are basically the same.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a video on how to do the walls. I will be working on one soon. Jack, you can always subscribe to stay tuned for more videos coming soon. Stay tuned and stay healthy. Happy holidays! Thanks for watching.
Can you use this method down here in SE Texas. Primarily in a one level house floor with high traffic? And can ceramic tile on top of it?
Misael Gavia yes of course you can. I would install an uncoupling membrane before the tile installation. If everything is done properly it should last all a very long time. You can also install the tile on the concrete with the uncoupling membrane and no plywood. Stay safe and healthy!
ua-cam.com/video/7Zqy_6XM8QE/v-deo.html
Great video! I am planning to use your system for my house. The only question I have is what tape did you use to seal the membrane? I didn’t catch that in the video and couldn’t find an answer in the comments. Thanks!
www.rona.ca/en/product/tuck-tape-1-pack-60-mm-x-55-m-sheating-tape-for-pe-vapor-barrier-blue-219086055-00545063?viewStore=55140&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19597975800&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=paid_search-_-google-_-aw_pmax_generic_Paint-_-&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo9rOidL_gQMVFS6zAB3GuQJ0EAQYASABEgLsp_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Wow Edward what a fantastic video. I do have a question for you if you don't mind:
If I have roughed in plumbing, should I be installing my subfloor around my rough in plumbing, or does my toilet gasket need to be in contact with the concrete?
I think a plumber that actually sees the job that you’re doing can answer that better than me. In saying this, the actual subfloor plywood is just like any subfloor in any house. When doing the rough in for the flange, it’s always nice to have the top of the flange flush or above the plywood and only higher to accommodate the flooring you will install in your bathroom. So your finish flange should be flush with your finished flooring. If that’s not possible, you can always add a thicker gasket when installing the toilet.
Hope that helps
Can you put fome or carpet insulation on top of the Dalta-MS then put the plywood on top of it?
Fantastic video - I've put the same exact product in the 8 and 6ft sheets of delta MS down in my basement, and tried to put carpeting on top, as suggested by delta without first putting plywood...it's was way too wavy, and unfortunately has to stop installation due to the waves not being weighed down by the pad and carpet. I do not necissarily want to put down plywood because of the cost associated so I have to either take a loss on the cost of the delta MS or figure out an alternative, any advice?
Max, the only thing I can think of is plywood, minimum 3/8 “ thick. Doesn’t have to be tongue and groove plywood. I wish there was a different alternative. Hopefully one of our subscribers has a different idea?
Thank you for watching!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Maybe try OSB tongue and groove if it's cheaper but really plywood seems like the way to go in most harsh environments
You tried to save cost on plywood but ended up losing it on time with the carpet not being able to be installed.... Always best to do things the right way so you don't have to do it twice. Plywood ontop is the ONLY solution in order to use the delta
Hello Edward, Thanks for the informative video. How would the Delta membrane be incorporated with rigid foam boards on the exterior walls of a basement. Would it extend under the foam or would you leave a gap. Keep up the good work!!! Thanks again.
Good question! I would leave a gap, the delta doesn’t have to be tight against any walls or insulation. 1/2” in your case should be fine. The gap of the plywood could be up to 1” . Hope that helps, and thanks! Stay safe and healthy!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 OK, I will leave a gap then. Thankyou!!!
@@grantrandle6174 my pleasure!
Great video. Question for you: the previous owner of my house seemed to have put tiles right onto the concrete basement floor. If I want to install laminate, do I go over the tiles or do I have to remove the tiles?
Great question! As long as the tile seems solid, I don’t really see a reason why you have to remove the tile. Most laminates will hold up in a case like yours. Just make sure you get an underlayment to support the laminate. You can check out our how to install laminate series to see how to install laminate and to see a type of under underlayment.
It all depends on how much work you feel fit in your case to take on. Removing the tile from the concrete will take a fair amount of work.
If you leave the tile keep in mind that you just raised the floor up whatever the thickness of the laminate you will be installing. With this in mind you might have to cut the jambs of the doors to fit the laminate under for a nice finish, also the height of the doors and maybe a 1/4 round or moulding of some sort that you might have will have to be reinstalled or replaced. In saying all this, it’s up to you, do you remove the tile or just adjust for the extra height you just added.
I honestly don’t think that it’s necessary to remove the tile, to install any laminate.
A great laminate in your case would be a vinyl. The technology on vinyl laminate has come a long way and has great benefits over a wood laminate and they have vinyl laminated that look just like wood.
I hope this helps! Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more videos!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 thanks so much for the detailed reply, appreciate it. I should add that the main reason I’m looking at laminate is because of how cold the tiles are, so was hoping it could help create a separation from the cold. In terms of underlayment, are there any you recommend to help with insulation?
@@twiincentral8780 my pleasure. In that case you can add 1/2’ styrofoam (aka rigid foam) on top of the existing tiled floor or dmx. To gain a warmer floor, i would say the rigid foam would help with a warmer floor. Or just remove the tile and install a subfloor like in this video and then install laminate with a underlayment. Installing any type of flooring on plywood with a membrane is always a different feel and warmth to it. If your looking for more warmth, between a vinyl laminate and wood laminate, I would say the wood will retain a slightly better r value. Everything depends on your budget and the amount of work it would take, to get the job done. In regards to suggesting a good underlayment, unfortunately I can’t suggest anything other than seeing what’s available to you and doing the homework on the one you think is best. I say this because, every country, every city and or any region has suppliers and every one offers different products. Its all up you to do your homework on that one.
When building your walls and securing your bottom plates to your subfloor are you nailing/screwing into the 5/8" subfloor plywood only or are you drilling into the cement slab and securing your bottom plate with longer Tapcon screws to the cement slab?
Thank you for this great video. One question. Do you make the frame on the top of subfloor? Or is it better to do framing first and then subfloor?
Best way is to build the walls once the floor is done. Build the walls on top of the floor and use 2” wood screws to fasten the bottom plate to the plywood. I hope this helps, happy holidays!
Quick question about your first row. Tongue goes towards the foundation, this row do you screw near the tongue? I see the other rows you didn’t screw at the tongue, curious if the first row you do
Great question!
Tongue goes against the foundation, yes.
I don’t screw any tongue edge, not necessary, because the tongue and groove connection with the screws on the groove side does it all, that’s why we use tongue and groove.
I don’t screw the edge against the foundation because when we build walls on top (outer walls, on the foundation side) we fasten through the bottoms plate, plywood and into the concrete with longer screws and avoid fastening with concrete fasteners twice.
Hope that helps !
Can u do the subfloor then framing on top
Yes absolutely, we do it all the time if it’s the customers budget. If you look closely towards the end of the video it shows that the walls are built on top. I actually prefer to do the complete subfloor before we frame walls.
Thank for watching Mahmoud!
Stay safe and healthy!
Great job. Did you use self leveling concrete first?
Thank you, and yes we do where it’s needed for sure. If you want to see a video on self levelling cement here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/OO8rnBY_3yot/v-deo.htmlay Stay safe and healthy and happy holidays.
Any thoughts about pouring epoxy over the plywood as a finish?
Also, in Texas the concrete moves around. Thoughts on that?
So you put your stads on top of the subfloor after is finished? Thanks in advance!
If you’re going to finish your basement and are starting from scratch, do your subfloor first and then build all your walls on top.
Thanks for sharing this video ! Your floor seems 100% level. What if my 1000sqft basement is not level. I have a room with a lot of deflection. Maybe Sleeper subfloor ?
You’re welcome, what your looking for is a straight floor not necessarily level, best way is to use floor leveler before you start the subfloor. We do this when the floor has humps and dips.
Have you subscribed? We have a few great videos on basements.
Check this video out, it is your solution
ua-cam.com/video/OO8rnBY_3yo/v-deo.html
Subscribed !
What about interior wall with drywall ? Does the membrane need to be taped around ? Thanks again
@@jfarhat8607 no it doesn’t
Been searching on YT for this information. Great job! I would like to use this system in a pole building with a cement floor. It addresses all my concerns but 1: R value. Is that really a concern on the floor? I intend to install this and frame partition walls on top of it. Pretty sure that's not possible if I use foam board as an insulator. Your thoughts.
PS - thanks and subscribed!
Thank you for enjoying the video and the positive feedback!
I wouldn’t worry so much about the r-value on the floor,, just by adding the plywood it will feel cozier. You can certainly add rigid foam, you would need longer screws. We have done, delta, rigid foam and plywood. As for framing the walls, as long as they are just partitions and are not load bearing, you can build them right on top. We do it all the time in basements and have no issues. I hope this helps and thank you especially for subscribing, I’m great full!
Let me know how it goes! Happy new year!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 You're a great help! Thanks.
Always a pleasure!
I'd be afraid to 😬crack my slab foundation in Texas homes on a slab shift a lot throughout the year!!! What about plumbing going under the slab 😬 better use glue imho
Is it necessary to fasten the plywood to the floor? Is a "swimming" floor acceptable for vinyl flooring? Awesome instructional videos!👍
I have the same question that no one has answered from other videos...I've come to conclusion that we should take the time to fasten them not because they will move/slide...but because the wood can warp over time thus creating humps which then you will totally notice with the vinyl flooring
In the industry, we always fasten subfloors. There is no exception to this. Your plywood or osb decking is your solid platform for other materials to properly fasten to, or float on top of. You don't want this sliding, swelling, warping, etc. We are talking about thousands of dollars in investment. Don't compromise it by skimping on fasteners. Even the paperwork on those 2x2 osb panels with the plastic and foam on the bottom, recommend that you fasten them down in most situations.
Yes,even the underlayment directions tell you to do so
@@JasonEllingsworth❤excellent comment
Question. I was unable to find tongue and groove plywood sheets. Would I just leave 1/8 space for expansion between each sheet?
Yes that will work fine, and just fasten the sheet down the same way as I demonstrated in my videos on the 8ft side that doesn’t have the tongue. Is there a shortage of building materials in your area?
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 yes I can't did plywood with tongue and groove that's for subfloors. All I find is OSB! Thank you so much 😄
Thanks for the detailed tutorial! How often do you have to change out your SDS drill bit doing a project like this?
You’re welcome!
One bit usually does about 20 to 25 sheets before they start slowing down, more or less about 800 square ft. I usually buy them in bulk and when on sale.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching!
I broke one, so 2 bits used total on my 1600 sq ft basement
Dricore polypropylene membrane is 1/4" thick plus 1/2" OSB. Why not use 1/2" spruce plywood with DMX Step1 or AG product? Why 5/8" if 1/2" is minimum requirement by code in Ontario? You save a little in head height. Just asking...
Phumes, you can definitely use 1/2” plywood. We don’t only because we are using tongue and groove plywood. I don’t know what’s easily available in your area. They also make 3/8” tongue and groove but it’s not readily available to us. There is no code to what thickness of plywood used in a basement subfloor. So don’t worry about that. Use what works for you. You can even use 3/8” plywood. Please understand that our videos are not here to dictate what you have to do. It’s your project, you need to weigh the odds, benefits and costs for yourself. I hope this helps. Don’t forget to subscribe and stay tuned for more videos!
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 Understood - I also noticed that only 5/8" & 3/4" plywood or OSB come in tongue and groove. If I did 1/2" plywood I would need to tapcon all four sides. - Thanks
Yes you would, fasten the top and bottom along the 8’ side of the plywood the same like I show in all our videos.
Build show does something similar with 1" foam board, then 2 floating 5/8 boards, staggered, glued together with subfloor spray foam in b/w. I was thinking about going with this approach but replacing foam with delta. My only concern is that my floor isn't perfectly level (I plan on carpeting+tile, don't think planks will work with unlevel floors). Do you think a floating 1 1/4 (2x5/8) will be enough or would you recommend tapconning the delta and 1st 5/8 then staggering, gluing+screwing down the second 5/8?
Subscribed to this comment . What did you end up doing ? I'm in a similar boat
@@shahsmerdis Still WIP. So far, I'm thinking a single board, screwed down to delta. Once I have some installs, it if feels unstable, I'll add another 5/8" board, staggered. Just don't like the idea of such a thick base.
@@shahsmerdis I started laying down the boards. If you want tile, I think 2 boards is needed. But if you’re using vinyl, foam pad, dimple board and 3/4” board is more than enough. Without the foam padding, the dimple board was super loud.
Very informative, great video. Is there a particular reason you go with the Delta-MS over the Delta-FL? Any suggestions on how to purchase Delta products? I live in the states and will need to order online.
You don’t need to use the delta mat or any delta products. Any dimple membrane available to you locally will do. I only use it because it’s easily available in my area. I have answered this various times. Check out the comments, there is a ton of info in the comments sections.
Hello great vid..what king floors ate you installing there please
The entire video is based on installing a plywood subfloor
Hello, great video. I have a question as my walls are already built. How do I finish the delta against the drywalled walls? Thanks.
I'm about to do this job in my basement, the outer walls were framed, insulated and covered with a plastic sheet vapor barrier. My plan is to install the dmx all the way to the plastic vapor barrier and tape the seams against the wall.
In your case you might have to cut the drywall with a straight edge, exposing enough room for dmx and plywood. Also allowing you to seal up against your vapor barrier.
@@rexham83 Thanks Dan. How about interior walls? As for my exterior walls, I have ICF so just bring it up to the Styrofoam?
Thanks for this video. I want to apply a floor to a concrete garage. Do I need to lay a barrier or would direct glue on without a barrier layer work? Thank you for sharing this.
You’re welcome, let me see if I understand what you’re asking.
I would use the same system, I wouldn’t put wood directly on the concrete. The concrete will always have moisture in it and will eventually cause problems with wood directly on it. Hope this helps
@@idealdirecthomeimprovement1639 thank you sir that answers my question.
I’m happy to hear that I could help. Don’t forget to subscribe and stay tuned for more videos! Thank you again for watching. My apologies for not getting back sooner, but I’m pretty sure I was asleep when you asked and it has been a very busy morning. Stay safe and healthy and Happy New Year!
Great video!!!!!
Thank you!
In the start of your video you had house wrap outside of the studs. Do you have a video on that? I’m doing a 100 year old basement and need to get the damp smell out. I’ll use this flooring method. Never had any water in the basement.. but humidity does make its way through the wall. It’s currently finished (sometime in the 60s) and has that old basement smell
@@danhoy8356 I don’t have a video on the house wrap,but it’s very simple,just hang it from the top. You can tape the seams but it’s not 100% necessary.
If I was you, I would certainly get a dehumidifier running 24/7 for as long as you can. Depending on the scope of your finishing, the more you can demo and dispose of the old build the better. The smell is coming from the old stuff. I hope this helps
Absolutely does. Thanks for answering my question! And yes, I’ll be removing everything!
Hi, regards from Lima - Peru. Very nice video, let me ask you this question. What’s that 1” space for? The one along the foundation. I know it’s a little different placing the underlay on a basement rather than a floor room located on the top of a 6 story building.
Good question and thanks for stating that your doing this above grade. You don’t need a 1” space in your case.
Stay safe and healthy!
Thank you so much
My pleasure!
are you located in NYC , would love to have you do my basement floor
Our home is on a concrete slab - no basement - would you use the same process for that?
I sure wood Steve! Perfect application 👍🏻
Should fasten ply from centre first then to edges..
We always start with the edges first because it’s marked like I showed in the video and the edges become your guide to fasten the sheet in the body of the sheet.(center)
Do you need to use self leveler in large basements area?
No. You'd probably end up spending the same amount of money trying to self level a basement floor than the cost of the entire basement itself
Is it better to put the stud framing on top of the subfloor, so any moisture will go up the behind the walls n distribute better?
Yes, Sean
Thank you so much for making your videos, they have been of great help. I'm subscribed!
In the video, you used 1/4" 2-3/4" screws but in your video description it says to use 3/16" 2-1/4" screws. Which ones should I actually use?
My pleasure Aaron! Great question, you can use 2 1/4 x 1/4”. I was using the 2 3/4” because my supplier ran out of 2 1/4”. I will have to look at the description and adjust it.
Thank you for subscribing! I really appreciate it! We could use all the help that we can get.
@Ideal Direct Home Improvements Company Thanks so much for the response. Would 3/16" 2-1/4" be okay? Or should I really go and get 1/4"?
@@dtmapex 3/16 will do fine👍🏻
Is there a reason you could not use 22 caliber nail shot in place of drilling?
@@ronstrode9124 it would be to unpredictable, definitely not recommended for a ton of reasons, you can definitely try it.
Have you ever used one of those fastening guns?