Could we all take a moment to appreciate that Ivan does all of this w/one hand tied behind a camera? Just yesterday, hanging nearly upside down, trying to inspect a wiring harness, I found myself asking out loud, "how the hell does Ivan do this with a camera?". Amazing work as always Ivan, thank you for the videos.
Ivan, once again, you are so far ahead of the vast majority of your peers that it's incredible. You are located about two hours north of me in PA, and if I ever run into any problems with my 2020 Volvo S60, I wouldn't hesitate to track you down. You're the best in the business, buddy.
I agree with you about the thickness of modern A pillars. There's also a little known thing called "constant bearing, closing range". If something is on a collision course with you, it will stay at the same bearing. Our brains are already part blind to that, but if it happens to be behind the A pillar, you've got no chance of seeing it coming.
Agreed, form over function. I'm certain a much thinner A pillar could be designed using modern high strength materials that would provide the required strength, with poor visibility you need all the other aids!
The A pillar creates a blind spot. The thicker it is, the larger the blind spot. I believe many accidents are caused by drivers who do not check that blind spot by moving the head a bit side to side. Of course, people also change lanes without even looking in the mirrors, so the problem is not fixable. You can fix ignorant, but you can't fix stupid. I asked couple youngsters here i Norway about the problem. They were not taught about the problem during their driver's training.
@@georgetillett6549 I think in effort to improve the car's crash rating they've lowered the angle of the pillar. They've also added airbags to it. I'm sure that's a big part of the increase in size. Adding the speaker is the cherry on the top when it comes to size.
The big A pillars for the airbags and crash protection can actually add to the potential for a crash if people don't attempt to look around them. Luckily it's mostly left and right and rarely 45 degrees. Nice work on this repair. It's amazing that something so simple gets overlooked by so many mechanics. We need better training, not just schooling, real world training in a shop environment. But instead they let almost anyone do diagnosis and repair based on the shops profits rather then who is best at what type of work. I know that first hand and it hasn't changed in 40+ years I've been doing it.
The ideal mechanic today needs the assembly/disassembly skills of a 50 year pro; a PhD in Electronics or the practical equivalent; and the patience of a 10 year old to deal with diagnostic/programming issues, finding parts on Ebay, keeping track of which scanner does what, etc. Few qualify. You do. Most don't.
Excellent work Ivan. I knew it was going to be the ABS module after part one. My brother's F150 had an ABS module issue and I had to slice it open with a Dremel to fix it then I had to epoxy it back together. It sure beats having to buy the programming tool. Looking forward to part 4 where you go full Russian and repair the module to show the world how it can be done. (I bet it's just a cold solder joint at the connector pin for the 12V driver.)
This seemed an ideal opportunity to open the faulty ABS and look for a cold solder joint. You've done this many times and I was sure you were going to do it again. It's a classis situation of vibration causing the intermittent connection. Had a very similar issue oln my 2001 Yukon with relays coming loose on the PCB. Do a post failure analysis and let us know what you find.
84065250 is the part number for the EBCM and the brake pressure module (the hydraulic part) together. The EBCM alone is sold under 84065240 even though it has 84065250 printed on it, so you definitely got the right part. Another great diagnosis yet again. 🙂
Noteworthy for anyone using SPS2, the "Clear DTCs" button is a relatively new addition to the software, as is the additional procedures section of the confirmation page. Always read the additional procedures section and follow it, and use the Clear DTCs button when it's available. This Clear DTCs function is different from what you'll find on a scantool, or in GDS2, and it forces a reset cycle and refresh of sorts on several modules, bypassing the need for a ~15 minute power down in order for programming and configuration to actually take effect. :)
The most important thing I’ve drawn from watching your videos is that if the initial scan data shows faults in multiple modules it’s usually a wiring problem or more than 1 problem. Until the problem is isolated by testing no parts need to be ordered. Thanks Ivan.
I had an ABS issue in a dodge Nitro.. flashing lighting bolt on the dash.. traction control and ABS were both disabled, several lights on the dash. I was trouble shooting a separate issue with APP2 data dropping out and I unhooked the connectors from the ECM to test wires, etc.. And then you told me that APP2 data drops out on dodge as a "testing" signal.. So I stopped chasing my tail there and put it all back together-- and somehow it fixed my ABS issue. lol. So the car is better than it has ever been now, and has been for a year or so- ABS issue never came back.
I would have liked to see the PC board on the old controller. I'm willing to bet that a few solder reflows on cracked solder connections would have fixed that! BUT... for a customer car, you did the right thing of course. On my OWN car, I totally would have dissected and attempted a repair.
I got finished with a 02 Camry. Customer went to a shop. They tried and gave up. Not sure how much he spent. I didn't ask. After i got it. It took me 3 hours to find out it needed a brake module. Thats after finding the harness was not even seated right. Since i was a rookie. i charged him 1.5 hours labour plus the parts. Then the stupid trac control would pop up as soon as you turned the car slightly. Then a steering angle sensor needs replaced. Customer went to the local parts store. They ordered him the wrong freaking part even though i gave them the actual part. So that took 2.5 weeks. Finally i finshed the car. No more trouble codes.
I have a 2012 lacrosse with the same problem and symptoms. I bought the car for $ 1500 because no shops could fix it. I diagnosed it in about 1 hour and put a switched 12v source to the 12 wire coming out of the abs module and have been using it as my work car for months while I let my cummins sit in the driveway.
i really appreciate your videos they are very informative i have a 2010 Cadillac srx i feel a little more confident to work on the abs and traction control messages now ..... thank you keep up the good work ... ps the classic reach around comment had me laughing (eric o)
I'm with you on the visibility issue, because of the steep windshield angle the A pillar has to be so thick and you're far away from it it creates a bad visibility problem !
I had an abs fault on my 2008 citroen c5 saloon car .. after replacing the brake pads the brake pedal would sink slowly to the floor .n A second hand abs valve block and ecu was compared to assist with the jammed abs valve .the ecu was programmed for the individual car .. After servicing the sticking valve body I reinstalled the original Abs unit and after An ABS bleed routine the fault was no longer evident . Job done .
Nice case study and conclusion. Now the customer has to decide what to do with the other shop. They replaced good OEM parts with aftermarket parts without diagnosing the problem. Hopefully the customer asked to have the old parts in case the new stuff fails.
I almost hit a pedestrian because of the stupid thick pillar once. Turning left as they were crossing towards me exactly tracking the pillar. The only thing that saved them was that I had a passenger who was able to see. It is absolutely deadly! But I'm sure the car company/government answer will be "we need more electronics".
Good fix Ivan. Having that wiring diagram is a big help. Maybe having the 12 volt output to the sensors is a way to control that voltage so there's no noise on it and it's not varying. Those sensors need "clean" 12 volts. The location of that module should be up above not down where water can bathe it. Ford trucks did that putting the ABS module under the Hydraulic Control Unit. I changed a lot of modules and HCU's because of brake fluid getting into the module. Not good.
I agree about those A-pillars. I did a testdrive in a VW 'New Beetle' and that car is particularily aweful because those A-pillars arc out far towards the front of the car increasing the problem substancially. I hate that car because of that.
I imagine everyone a sick of me saying this I am not ever going to buy any of these newer model vehicles,That being said I just purchased another vehicle a 2006 Toyota Corrolla wagon it has more modules than I would like however after using my TopDon Arti daig 800 on it (before purchase the only thing in red on live data was throttle position sensor was just out of range ,got it home cleaned the throttle body (black as night )& now all readings are good. The reason for the purchase was it is a Toyota.Cheers Ivan great 3 part set as always.
Nice work Ivan. I too have not seen that particular problem happen myself. But I have seen a number of ABS systems fail on the older trail blazers. A couple of them had the brake pedal push back as you tried to apply the brakes. Scary stuff.
Totally agree with you I have a 2018 Nisan Rogue, blind spots all around. . 🤔 A few times The comming car gets hidden in the thickness of the pillars, , 🤨
This has the same setup as Opel, also Gm product. I have one, only the coolant reservoir is plased in front above the radiator, so it doesnt leak onto the ebcm.
Back in 03 I was looking for a new sedan to drive to work. I really liked the Honda Accord. It rode and drove very well, but at the first stop sign, I could not see down the road due to the A-pillar being oversized and in the wrong place. I went down the road and bought a Camry XLE due to superior visibility. I spent more money matching the ride and driveability of the Honda because I didn't want to end up in a failure-to-yield accident because of some poorly planned design.
I'm with you Ivan on the thick A pillar. My 21 Pilot has those and I've come close to hitting another car because it totally blocked my view at that angle. I guess there isn't enough technicians around to do a proper diag on cars anymore or enough techs that have a clue on how to use the tools and common sense to do it ?
Excellent work Ivan, real good look at how someone doing sloppy work can affect the whole system. Those connector pins spread two wide making the problem even worse.
I bet you could have fixed module. There will be a cold solder joint. My works Dodge Caravan shuttle had Abs pump motor and solenoid circuit codes. Internal fault. New is unavailable. Put a used one in but you cannot rewrite VIN (unless you can do EEPROM work, which I am looking in to) So, cut the cover off of og module and resoldered all power and ground pins. Good to go.
Great job as always Ivan, what did the actual time end up at ? Did you beat the book time? Most importantly is it’s fixed and another customer is delighted!
As long as they keep making cars with electronics, modules, can busses etc. you're never going to lack for work. Its a shame more shops don't fo proper thorough diagnostics before firing the parts cannons. But luckily there are a few good mechanics like you out there. Thanks for another entertaining video series. Once in a while a one and done would be nice too.
The old EBCM probably had a poor solder job on the connector pin to the circuit board, and may have been repaired fairly easily - all depends on the state inside it's case of course.
Tell your customer if they want the P0420 and P0430 to go away they have to use 93 octane gas in these cars. That code used to show regularly in my car and then when I started using 93 octane it went away and for my car it says in the book that it is supposed to use and is required to use 93 octane. for the 3.0L I'm not sure but I have the 3.6L engine LLT.
Common sense should tell you that multiple components or modules rarely fail all at the same time. The dealership and other shop should have known that, especially after the replacement parts did not fix the issue. I always ask for my old parts back, especially electronic ones unless there is a large core charge.
Great job, Ivan! Thankfully, you didn't need to remove the hydraulics - would have been a pain :-) I wish we could have an autopsy of the old module, but that would have changed nothing, just plain curiosity :-)
Another happy car and happy customer I’m sure . And I concur with the A pillar vision obstruction. That was the first thing I noticed in the new Rams when they first came out long ago. Sort of a blessing in disguise for me as it was a factor for not buying one. Have a great week Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
Probably because they have hundreds of connections, dozens of Connectors and miles of wire under the hood. That dictates creating watertight schemes for all of these points. Once you have a scheme (that you feel is adequate) to accomplish it there is little benefit rationing module in/out of wet zone as the tensing connections are still exposed.
Engineers seem to have "tunnel vision" when it comes to design. They think only of the component with no regard to service room, potential damage from water, etc. Then again, as has been mentioned, it could also be planned obsolescence. We need to remember GM built this car; I thought I saw "Made in China" on the box containing the module as Ivan panned his camera over it. I thought the Marquis had big "A" pillars; I think cars must pass a "roof-crush" test. You need that in place when a car hits you that you didn't see coming because of the pillar and you roll over. LOL. GREAT VIDEO!
Maybe mechanics should have to learn what goes into module design. Ideally, there's an integrated product team with all interests represented. Are you willing to do that?
Love the way you are finding faults! Don’t know if it would have been possible to open the old module and to check what the root cause of the fault is. I bet it’s a cold solder joint or ripped trace only! 👍👍🔥
Ivan…I’m wondering why you didn’t inspect the old module first? A failure on tapping might be a visible crack (Repairable?), near the connector? Or do you just not go that far as a rule? Any post-op inspection? Love your work;-)
Ivan. This type of car repair really goes beyond the average tech. You can be great at turning wrenches, mediocre around DC circuits and absolutely lost on electronics. This is a prime example in the automotive field. It’s the same for your washing machine , dishwasher and home HVAC too nowadays. You my friend are one in 1000 techs.
Dealership couldn't do that ?????????? They really suck go back to school for retraining.💩😭😁🤣 P.S. give back the oem parts you robbed from my car 👃☠🎓🤣 great video
For reprogramming I would remove the battery maintainer because there could be some ripple in the output that could cause reprogramming problems. Battery only would be pure DC which would be less prone to introduce noise in the module during programming.
I agree with you these new pillars are simply too thick It's hard to see where you're going I've noticed that on many latest generation of cars even small cars like micras and corsas that's why I got the ford ka+ in the end It's cheap practical and divisibility is really good and the spec is very good doe the front seats could be softer
No Russian repair on safety equipment - good call! You don't want to take that chance. If anything happened, fingers would be pointing your way regardless of what really happened.
Might you have caprured operstional graphs for the old module when it was functional? Are there no online databases of such correct data? Do you ever consult online R&R.sources such as A1?
Ivan, this is a perfect example of how the majority of shops rely too heavily on diagnostic trouble codes rather than physical diagnostics. If they had confirmed the fix before the vehicle left the shop, they wouldn't be facing a $1,000 return. This customer definitely deserves their $1,000 refund.
Was that the low profile double flex head ratchet from Harbor Freight? I’ve never seen it anywhere else. I just bought one a couple weeks ago. Worked great as a serpentine belt tool on my daughter’s Chevy Cobalt. A traditional serpentine belt tool is too long, and even my low profile ratchet wouldn’t fit in the space.
Thanks Ivan. I wonder what the most reliable current/new domestic vehicle is. ? Just occurred to me that I rarely hear anyone ask that or see any regular comments about how great a given model of new domestic is. (ie: to the same degree as Toyota, Honda, Mazda and maybe Subarus as an example.). Are reliable/durable domestics unicorns now?
Another great study. These manufacturers can’t even make programming easy using their own software. I’m starting to believe car companies hire idiot savants to design their cars….genius in some ways and total smooth brains in others.
From Part 1,2,3, outstanding tutorial information video 👍 SHREWD,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Enjoy your evening with all your family around you,lvan ,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Take care From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 17:54 Good Afternoon
Could we all take a moment to appreciate that Ivan does all of this w/one hand tied behind a camera? Just yesterday, hanging nearly upside down, trying to inspect a wiring harness, I found myself asking out loud, "how the hell does Ivan do this with a camera?". Amazing work as always Ivan, thank you for the videos.
Ivan, once again, you are so far ahead of the vast majority of your peers that it's incredible. You are located about two hours north of me in PA, and if I ever run into any problems with my 2020 Volvo S60, I wouldn't hesitate to track you down. You're the best in the business, buddy.
I agree with you about the thickness of modern A pillars. There's also a little known thing called "constant bearing, closing range". If something is on a collision course with you, it will stay at the same bearing. Our brains are already part blind to that, but if it happens to be behind the A pillar, you've got no chance of seeing it coming.
Agreed, form over function. I'm certain a much thinner A pillar could be designed using modern high strength materials that would provide the required strength, with poor visibility you need all the other aids!
I have developed the habit of "looking around" the A pillars in my car. But the one in that car is rather wide.
The A pillar creates a blind spot. The thicker it is, the larger the blind spot. I believe many accidents are caused by drivers who do not check that blind spot by moving the head a bit side to side. Of course, people also change lanes without even looking in the mirrors, so the problem is not fixable. You can fix ignorant, but you can't fix stupid. I asked couple youngsters here i Norway about the problem. They were not taught about the problem during their driver's training.
@@georgetillett6549 _"form over function."_
Not really, more like form follows function. They already use high strength steels in areas like this.
@@georgetillett6549 I think in effort to improve the car's crash rating they've lowered the angle of the pillar. They've also added airbags to it. I'm sure that's a big part of the increase in size. Adding the speaker is the cherry on the top when it comes to size.
I bought an 87 Chevrolet Celebrity recently..low mileage, great condition and super easy to repair. I drive it more than my 23 Escalade now.
That's AWESOME 😎👍
87 Celebrity better hang on to that jewel 💎 my wife had a 86 Pontiac 6000 S/E we drove the wheels off of it.
Aww I was hoping for a tear down bonus material, opening up the module and seeing if it had some cold solder joints. No parts required. Great video!
I typed the same thing and scrolled down to see your post. :)
@@dublindave5795 Damnit, I typed the same thing, and then saw yalls post.
@@dhaggy1980 Me too!
Be a heck of a liability risk for a shop to reflow joints on abs. Lose everything you own.
@fpoastro Cant see how it would be a liability by inspecting it and seeing what failed.
The big A pillars for the airbags and crash protection can actually add to the potential for a crash if people don't attempt to look around them. Luckily it's mostly left and right and rarely 45 degrees.
Nice work on this repair. It's amazing that something so simple gets overlooked by so many mechanics. We need better training, not just schooling, real world training in a shop environment. But instead they let almost anyone do diagnosis and repair based on the shops profits rather then who is best at what type of work. I know that first hand and it hasn't changed in 40+ years I've been doing it.
The ideal mechanic today needs the assembly/disassembly skills of a 50 year pro; a PhD in Electronics or the practical equivalent; and the patience of a 10 year old to deal with diagnostic/programming issues, finding parts on Ebay, keeping track of which scanner does what, etc. Few qualify. You do. Most don't.
Another proper diag and fix by Ivan. I hope the owner can recoup some of their money from the previous incorrect repair, but it's doubtful.
Excellent work Ivan. I knew it was going to be the ABS module after part one. My brother's F150 had an ABS module issue and I had to slice it open with a Dremel to fix it then I had to epoxy it back together. It sure beats having to buy the programming tool. Looking forward to part 4 where you go full Russian and repair the module to show the world how it can be done. (I bet it's just a cold solder joint at the connector pin for the 12V driver.)
Ivan, for future reference, that's the "classic " reach around. ;) XD
This seemed an ideal opportunity to open the faulty ABS and look for a cold solder joint. You've done this many times and I was sure you were going to do it again. It's a classis situation of vibration causing the intermittent connection. Had a very similar issue oln my 2001 Yukon with relays coming loose on the PCB. Do a post failure analysis and let us know what you find.
84065250 is the part number for the EBCM and the brake pressure module (the hydraulic part) together. The EBCM alone is sold under 84065240 even though it has 84065250 printed on it, so you definitely got the right part. Another great diagnosis yet again. 🙂
450 cdn for 240 snd 750 cdn for 250. 250 apparently for rpo acn
@@gadasavideos8564 ?
Noteworthy for anyone using SPS2, the "Clear DTCs" button is a relatively new addition to the software, as is the additional procedures section of the confirmation page. Always read the additional procedures section and follow it, and use the Clear DTCs button when it's available. This Clear DTCs function is different from what you'll find on a scantool, or in GDS2, and it forces a reset cycle and refresh of sorts on several modules, bypassing the need for a ~15 minute power down in order for programming and configuration to actually take effect. :)
Thank you GM engineers for shoe horning parts into the engine compartment. Nice job my friend.
If you don't have to send it in for a core, please take the EBCM apart and find the loose solder joint. That would be fun to watch.
Outward visibility is one of the most important features in the old Astro Van 👍 I hate the thick A pillars and chonky steering wheels of newer cars.
Astro is amazing in that respect with the high seating position and short hood! Plus you can adjust the distributor from the driver's seat 😁
The most important thing I’ve drawn from watching your videos is that if the initial scan data shows faults in multiple modules it’s usually a wiring problem or more than 1 problem. Until the problem is isolated by testing no parts need to be ordered.
Thanks Ivan.
"No one ever did the diagnostics" PHAD to the rescue. Thanks Ivan!
I had an ABS issue in a dodge Nitro.. flashing lighting bolt on the dash.. traction control and ABS were both disabled, several lights on the dash. I was trouble shooting a separate issue with APP2 data dropping out and I unhooked the connectors from the ECM to test wires, etc.. And then you told me that APP2 data drops out on dodge as a "testing" signal.. So I stopped chasing my tail there and put it all back together-- and somehow it fixed my ABS issue. lol. So the car is better than it has ever been now, and has been for a year or so- ABS issue never came back.
I would have liked to see the PC board on the old controller. I'm willing to bet that a few solder reflows on cracked solder connections would have fixed that! BUT... for a customer car, you did the right thing of course. On my OWN car, I totally would have dissected and attempted a repair.
I got finished with a 02 Camry. Customer went to a shop.
They tried and gave up. Not sure how much he spent. I didn't ask.
After i got it. It took me 3 hours to find out it needed a brake module.
Thats after finding the harness was not even seated right.
Since i was a rookie. i charged him 1.5 hours labour plus the parts.
Then the stupid trac control would pop up as soon as you turned the car slightly.
Then a steering angle sensor needs replaced.
Customer went to the local parts store. They ordered him the wrong freaking part even though i gave them the actual part.
So that took 2.5 weeks. Finally i finshed the car. No more trouble codes.
A flawless, professionally diagnosed, repaired & verified fault young man! 10/10!🎉🎉
Could you have looked at the old module for obvious issues inside?
I have a 2012 lacrosse with the same problem and symptoms. I bought the car for $ 1500 because no shops could fix it. I diagnosed it in about 1 hour and put a switched 12v source to the 12 wire coming out of the abs module and have been using it as my work car for months while I let my cummins sit in the driveway.
Nice 😊👍
i really appreciate your videos they are very informative i have a 2010 Cadillac srx i feel a little more confident to work on the abs and traction control messages now ..... thank you keep up the good work ... ps the classic reach around comment had me laughing (eric o)
14 years not bad for a module. Knock, knock, who's there ? Tis only me with loose trannies and bad solder joints. Happy customer time again 🎉😊🎉 !!!
I'm with you on the visibility issue, because of the steep windshield angle the A pillar has to be so thick and you're far away from it it creates a bad visibility problem !
I had an abs fault on my 2008 citroen c5 saloon car .. after replacing the brake pads the brake pedal would sink slowly to the floor .n A second hand abs valve block and ecu was compared to assist with the jammed abs valve .the ecu was programmed for the individual car .. After servicing the sticking valve body I reinstalled the original Abs unit and after An ABS bleed routine the fault was no longer evident . Job done .
Citroen, not available in the states.
Nice case study and conclusion. Now the customer has to decide what to do with the other shop. They replaced good OEM parts with aftermarket parts without diagnosing the problem. Hopefully the customer asked to have the old parts in case the new stuff fails.
I almost hit a pedestrian because of the stupid thick pillar once. Turning left as they were crossing towards me exactly tracking the pillar. The only thing that saved them was that I had a passenger who was able to see. It is absolutely deadly! But I'm sure the car company/government answer will be "we need more electronics".
Good fix Ivan. Having that wiring diagram is a big help. Maybe having the 12 volt output to the sensors is a way to control that voltage so there's no noise on it and it's not varying. Those sensors need "clean" 12 volts.
The location of that module should be up above not down where water can bathe it.
Ford trucks did that putting the ABS module under the Hydraulic Control Unit. I changed a lot of modules and HCU's because of brake fluid getting into the module. Not good.
Why do manufacturers insist on putting ecm’s in areas where there’s potential water damage 😡
How else can they sell new ones ?
potential easy money
7674....
So you have to buy a new one and the vehicle is at a dealership
Planned obsolescence…..
That stupidity infuriates me too.
I agree about those A-pillars. I did a testdrive in a VW 'New Beetle' and that car is particularily aweful because those A-pillars arc out far towards the front of the car increasing the problem substancially. I hate that car because of that.
VW "new" Beetles should be hated just on "general principle" alone. What a stupid car. I mean, what's the point!?!
Too bad you don't start a training class for dealerships but we know that won't happen. Thank you for a great video as usual.
I imagine everyone a sick of me saying this I am not ever going to buy any of these newer model vehicles,That being said I just purchased another vehicle a 2006 Toyota Corrolla wagon it has more modules than I would like however after using my TopDon Arti daig 800 on it (before purchase the only thing in red on live data was throttle position sensor was just out of range ,got it home cleaned the throttle body (black as night )& now all readings are good. The reason for the purchase was it is a Toyota.Cheers Ivan great 3 part set as always.
I think it was Paul on SD who said, DTC's are not a shopping list for parts. Obviously, a lot of people still think they are. Cheers.
Wow a TRW part, my father used to work at TRW back in the mid 80's. Always great watching your diagnostic videos.
Nice work Ivan. I too have not seen that particular problem happen myself. But I have seen a number of ABS systems fail on the older trail blazers. A couple of them had the brake pedal push back as you tried to apply the brakes. Scary stuff.
Totally agree with you I have a 2018 Nisan Rogue, blind spots all around. . 🤔 A few times The comming car gets hidden in the thickness of the pillars, , 🤨
Westcoast Mirrors on a pickup truck can block the view somewhat too! CHEERS from Here!
This has the same setup as Opel, also Gm product. I have one, only the coolant reservoir is plased in front above the radiator, so it doesnt leak onto the ebcm.
And I thought removing and replacing the Bosch ABS module on my 2003 BMW X5 was a pain in the butt! Well done, Ivan. Best wishes from Florida.
You gotta put it all back to the way it was before they touched it, then fix it...wow!
Back in 03 I was looking for a new sedan to drive to work. I really liked the Honda Accord. It rode and drove very well, but at the first stop sign, I could not see down the road due to the A-pillar being oversized and in the wrong place. I went down the road and bought a Camry XLE due to superior visibility. I spent more money matching the ride and driveability of the Honda because I didn't want to end up in a failure-to-yield accident because of some poorly planned design.
Sure hope those aftermarket angle and yaw sensors keep working. Any chance that the customer has the originals? Great diagnosis Ivan.
I think the repair shop (part cannon firer has them)
I'm with you Ivan on the thick A pillar. My 21 Pilot has those and I've come close to hitting another car because it totally blocked my view at that angle. I guess there isn't enough technicians around to do a proper diag on cars anymore or enough techs that have a clue on how to use the tools and common sense to do it ?
The techs are not allowed to spend the time needed in some situations.
The reach around move, I believe you mean The Classic Reach Around, the classic automotive repair move taught by Eric at SMA 😉
Excellent work Ivan, real good look at how someone doing sloppy work can affect the whole system. Those connector pins spread two wide making the problem even worse.
I was most impressed by those ratchets he used to get the module out. Need to add those to the neverending tool wish list.
I bet you could have fixed module. There will be a cold solder joint. My works Dodge Caravan shuttle had Abs pump motor and solenoid circuit codes. Internal fault. New is unavailable. Put a used one in but you cannot rewrite VIN (unless you can do EEPROM work, which I am looking in to) So, cut the cover off of og module and resoldered all power and ground pins. Good to go.
Great job as always Ivan, what did the actual time end up at ? Did you beat the book time? Most importantly is it’s fixed and another customer is delighted!
As long as they keep making cars with electronics, modules, can busses etc. you're never going to lack for work. Its a shame more shops don't fo proper thorough diagnostics before firing the parts cannons. But luckily there are a few good mechanics like you out there. Thanks for another entertaining video series. Once in a while a one and done would be nice too.
Nice video Ivan. Don't know what you charge for your work Ivan but the work you do is worth every penny.
I watch a lot of mechanics on this platform i am putting you at # 1 for diagnosis skills just amazing !!
The old EBCM probably had a poor solder job on the connector pin to the circuit board, and may have been repaired fairly easily - all depends on the state inside it's case of course.
Ivan is right about the massive A-pillars in modern cars - they can hide an entire semi.
Tell your customer if they want the P0420 and P0430 to go away they have to use 93 octane gas in these cars. That code used to show regularly in my car and then when I started using 93 octane it went away and for my car it says in the book that it is supposed to use and is required to use 93 octane. for the 3.0L I'm not sure but I have the 3.6L engine LLT.
Why should the customer care?
They put a el cheapo Dorman parts already.
Common sense should tell you that multiple components or modules rarely fail all at the same time. The dealership and other shop should have known that, especially after the replacement parts did not fix the issue.
I always ask for my old parts back, especially electronic ones unless there is a large core charge.
Great job, Ivan! Thankfully, you didn't need to remove the hydraulics - would have been a pain :-)
I wish we could have an autopsy of the old module, but that would have changed nothing, just plain curiosity :-)
Another happy car and happy customer I’m sure . And I concur with the A pillar vision obstruction. That was the first thing I noticed in the new Rams when they first came out long ago. Sort of a blessing in disguise for me as it was a factor for not buying one. Have a great week Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
Probably because they have hundreds of connections, dozens of Connectors and miles of wire under the hood. That dictates creating watertight schemes for all of these points. Once you have a scheme (that you feel is adequate) to accomplish it there is little benefit rationing module in/out of wet zone as the tensing connections are still exposed.
Ivan, your diagnostic talent is AMAZING !!!
Engineers seem to have "tunnel vision" when it comes to design. They think only of the component with no regard to service room, potential damage from water, etc. Then again, as has been mentioned, it could also be planned obsolescence. We need to remember GM built this car; I thought I saw "Made in China" on the box containing the module as Ivan panned his camera over it. I thought the Marquis had big "A" pillars; I think cars must pass a "roof-crush" test. You need that in place when a car hits you that you didn't see coming because of the pillar and you roll over. LOL. GREAT VIDEO!
Maybe mechanics should have to learn what goes into module design. Ideally, there's an integrated product team with all interests represented. Are you willing to do that?
Your awesome Ivan. You're a young Bernie Thompson. Your skills are amazing.
Broken solder joint, common problem on the ABS unit fitted to my car - take it apart and resolder, nearly always works.
Any tips/advice/recommendation regarding Volvos?
I think since it involves the brakes working, and it's a customer car, Ivan was not willing to risk installing a home-repaired module.
Volvos are notorious for the ABS brake modules going bad solder joints can be cut open and repaired
@@NeuronioJr Dont buy them
@@calholli I already bought one recently,already done broskie..
Heck of a nice job!!! Thanks Ivan!
Absolutely awesome repair job there again Ivan you do a very honest job in highly technical stuff
Love the way you are finding faults! Don’t know if it would have been possible to open the old module and to check what the root cause of the fault is. I bet it’s a cold solder joint or ripped trace only! 👍👍🔥
I'm sure it's possible to cut open the plastic housing with a grinder... But I don't like comebacks 😜
I truly envy how service friendly modern cars have become. A total joy! 😉
Ivan you know the government knows everything about safety!! Gotta get that 5 star side crash rating!! 😂😂😂😂
Fantastic detective diagnostic procedures as always! Great job PHAD👍
Ivan…I’m wondering why you didn’t inspect the old module first?
A failure on tapping might be a visible crack (Repairable?), near the connector?
Or do you just not go that far as a rule?
Any post-op inspection?
Love your work;-)
Would have to cut it open, and he wasn't going to install a repaired brake module in a customer's car anyway.
Ivan. This type of car repair really goes beyond the average tech.
You can be great at turning wrenches, mediocre around DC circuits and absolutely lost on electronics.
This is a prime example in the automotive field.
It’s the same for your washing machine , dishwasher and home HVAC too nowadays.
You my friend are one in 1000 techs.
Dealership couldn't do that
?????????? They really suck go back to school for retraining.💩😭😁🤣
P.S. give back the oem parts you robbed from my car 👃☠🎓🤣 great video
For reprogramming I would remove the battery maintainer because there could be some ripple in the output that could cause reprogramming problems. Battery only would be pure DC which would be less prone to introduce noise in the module during programming.
There is no ripple...this is a modern charger, not a 50-year old humming device ;)
Having the voltage drop below 12V can brick modules even easier!
Ivan,
Great diag! Great job explaining your thought process along the way.
I agree with you these new pillars are simply too thick It's hard to see where you're going I've noticed that on many latest generation of cars even small cars like micras and corsas that's why I got the ford ka+ in the end It's cheap practical and divisibility is really good and the spec is very good doe the front seats could be softer
Ivan did you happen to tear apart the junk module and inspect for damage? Great job
No Russian repair on safety equipment - good call! You don't want to take that chance. If anything happened, fingers would be pointing your way regardless of what really happened.
Ramos Mexico, baby! John Deere is heading there next. Quality 👌
I'm pretty sure that the failure in that ABS module was a cracked solder joint, so it may have even been possible to fix it no parts required.
But Ivan, newer cars are so much better. Great diag and repair as always.
hope the power pin failure isn't from cheapo steering sensor sucking till it blows.
Well done from Australia
Might you have caprured operstional graphs for the old module when it was functional? Are there no online databases of such correct data? Do you ever consult online R&R.sources such as A1?
Ivan, this is a perfect example of how the majority of shops rely too heavily on diagnostic trouble codes rather than physical diagnostics. If they had confirmed the fix before the vehicle left the shop, they wouldn't be facing a $1,000 return. This customer definitely deserves their $1,000 refund.
Not...the majority of the customer I see go to the parts store technician for their recommendations. 😅😅😅
Another great disgnosis! I hope the customer gets his money back from the other guy ......
The 2010 model cadillac srx has light poles for A pillars.
I hope you do a module tear down to see if it just broken solder.
You just gave manufacturers a great idea for options in brand new cars: "A pillar blind spot camera/sensor safety option... 2,000USD" 😅
Great video Ivan, can you use a “Used”EBCM from a donor car and reprogram it to the “new” vehicle?? Just curious
Should have had the module rebuilt instead of replacement, just my opinion of course
A superb performance once again 😀😀😀👍👍
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Was that the low profile double flex head ratchet from Harbor Freight? I’ve never seen it anywhere else. I just bought one a couple weeks ago. Worked great as a serpentine belt tool on my daughter’s Chevy Cobalt. A traditional serpentine belt tool is too long, and even my low profile ratchet wouldn’t fit in the space.
Thanks Ivan. I wonder what the most reliable current/new domestic vehicle is. ? Just occurred to me that I rarely hear anyone ask that or see any regular comments about how great a given model of new domestic is. (ie: to the same degree as Toyota, Honda, Mazda and maybe Subarus as an example.).
Are reliable/durable domestics unicorns now?
Can you open up the old ABS module? .. maybe find a bad cap or trace
@@davidhollfelder9940 putting it back together would be the hard part 😆
Another great study. These manufacturers can’t even make programming easy using their own software. I’m starting to believe car companies hire idiot savants to design their cars….genius in some ways and total smooth brains in others.
Another great repair. I agree on newer vehicle poor visibility.
From Part 1,2,3, outstanding tutorial information video
👍
SHREWD,Ivan,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you,lvan ,Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
Take care
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 17:54 Good Afternoon