Antweight Robot Construction - Rollcage
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- This is the construction and assembly of my latest 3D printed Antweight (150 gram) bot, Rollcage!
Rollcage is about as simple as you can get for an antweight bot. He is a standard wedge/pusher bot and is perfect for anyone looking to get into some robot fighting. We will be using the Rollcage design to make a few spares for newcomers to try out and fight with.
I've put his design up on Thingiverse. Check it out for more details on how to assemble your own Rollcage!
www.thingiverse...
Please check out our Facebook group or Robowars.org forum thread for more details about our Australian bot fighting group or to come and check us out next month:
/ adelaiderobotcombat
robowars.org/fo...
Parts list:
2x 50:1 microgear motors. botbitz.com.au/...
2x Pololu 42x19mm wheels. www.robotgear....
2x brushed ESC's. www.ebay.com.au...
RC trigger style 2 channel transmitter and reciever. I am using a Flysky FS-GT3C in this video but this Hobbyking transmitter is cheaper and will work just as well. www.hobbyking....
260mAh battery (this higher capacity is only used so it can go several matches without a charge and Rollcage had plenty of weight to spare). www.hobbyking.c...
V-Tail Mixer. www.hobbyking....
Thanks for the part list, I printed one myself and I've ordered the parts so fingers crossed it all works 👍🏻
Habrown _21 You're welcome and good luck!
Hi There! I really enjoy your videos, especially the robot build ones like this. I have a question though. I was going through the parts you set links to and I noticed you had a 2 cell system; I understand the voltage of such a battery and the limitations of the motors (6v DC motors) and your ESC's seemed to work perfectly. My question is, should i decide to go with a 3 cell system, with 12v DC motors, would I need to purchase higher amperage ESC's, or would the 10a ESC's you have linked would be okay with 12v motors at around 300rpm? Any responses would be great!!
12V DC motors will still work just fine on 2S, they'll just run slower. The esc's I have linked are only rated for 2S, so you'll need to select an esc which is compatible with the voltage you want.
The current rating will be fine too. If you can find a data sheet on these motors, you'll find that their maximum stall current will only be around 1A. A data sheet will also explain what RPM you can expect at different voltages.
This site also sells micro metal gear motors, albeit for a higher price. But they do provide lots of specifics about their motors.
www.robotgear.com.au/Category.aspx/Category/223-12V-Micro-Metal-Gearmotors
Hope this helps.
Regarding your indication LEDs, you need to wire in a resistor. Otherwise you're going to keep burning them out.
VestedUTuber Normally you're right and I would. But in this case blue LEDs are 3.3V forward biased and are in series, putting them at 6.6V. This is close enough to the 7.4V battery supply especially since I'm only using them for a maximum of 3 minutes at a time in a match.
The leds that blew in the video were simply a very cheap and bad batch of leds.
FrydDog
I've used 3.3v LEDs on 3.3v circuits (I've worked with the Texas Instruments MSP430) and I still had to use resistors. It's a matter of current, not voltage. Those better LEDs will last longer but they'll still burn out quickly unless you put extra load on the circuit via a resistor. Basically, V=IR, or in this case, I = V divided by R, where I is your current in Amps, V is the voltage, and R is resistance in Ohms. If your resistance is very low, like it is with an LED without a resistor, on a 7.4v circuit you end up drawing almost 7.4 amps, and this could far exceed the limitations of your LEDs.
VestedUTuber maybe next time, it works well now.
can i do It with flysky i6?
lelandro842-gamerman yeah that'll work, no worries
How did you wire the esc and the motors together
Usually your ESC will come with instructions for this otherwise, there are dozens of tutorials online explaining this. Try Googling ESC wiring diagram, heaps of images pop up that will help.
Ya is that I got the same esc and I want to know if I can work without a tank mixer
Each ESC connects to a different channel for your receiver/transmitter and so without any kind of mixing, one motor would be controlled by one stick/trigger and the other would be controlled by another.
So yes, you can get away without a mixer but depending on how you want to control your bot, this could be a difficult method. I suggest experimenting and seeing what works for you, that's how the rest of us figure things out.
Do you need a tank mixer
Yes and it will come in the form of either V-Tail mixing built into your transmitter (many aircraft transmitters come with this option), a V-tail mixer (found on Hobbyking) or a dual ESC with mixing built in (link below).
www.banggood.com/2S6A-Micro-Dual-Bi-Directional-Speed-Controller-for-Tank-Crawler-and-Boat-without-Brake-p-1032413.html?cur_warehouse=CN
Dose a flysky 2.4 6 ch come with a v-tail mixing
Or do I need to get the type of batteries used in the video
Team KRACKEN No not necessarily. Look up the construction rules for what ever event you intend to compete in and find out what batteries they allow. It's up to you what voltage and capacity you want to use. Lipo batteries like what's in this video are used in robot fighting because they are very light for their capacity and they have high discharge currents. The parts in this video are best suited for a 2S (7.4V) battery. The capacity used in this video is the lowest I could find on hobbyking at this voltage at that time.
I suggest simply getting some parts and having a go, that's all I did and it's half the fun of building a bot. Experiment and see what works for you because there is no one perfect way to build a combat robot. The robot in this video is just one way it can be done.
Adelaide Robot Combat thank you
What kind of plastic do you use?
ABS filament, nothing fancy.
Do you recommend these brushed esc
Team KRACKEN I don't use these any more, there's better stuff out there. Jump onto our Facebook and have a look at our pinned post, it's a google spreadsheet document listing all sorts of parts we recommend.
What are the size and weight limits for the ant weight competitions you enter into?
Our Antweight weight limit is 150 grams and we don't have a size limit. Early on a precedent by was set by fellow competitors in another state that we didn't need to follow the UK size limit of 4x4x4 inches.
Ok thanks for the help. Are there 2 types of ant weigts because in the US it says 1lb and in the UK it is 150 grams and for where you compete it is 150 grams. So which specs should I design for?
Find out if you've got any competitions or groups in your area and build to their rules, I reckon.
In the US their 150 gram weight class is called Fairyweight and their 1 pound class is called Antweight. The weights and rules don't change, just the names of the classes.
Good luck!
Can a regular DC motor would work for this esc
Technically yes. However, a regular DC motor doesn't have a gearbox, so your motors will run at uncontrollable speeds and you'll have no torque for pushing. I recommend using a gear box of some sort, which could be either a complete gearmotor like in this video or a home made set of gears which then connects to a DC motor.
Can you use regular batteries like from durecel to power the combat Robot
hey, i was woundering what mareiral you used to print this and does this fit in a 4in cube?
Rollcage was printed with ABS filament and I don't think he fits in a 4" cube. In Australia, our Antweight competitions don't feature that rule.
just a question but is the acetone vapour required?
UB-420 MeMeLoRd Not at all. Just a cosmetic choice by me. No idea if acetone vapor improves the print in any way. I've been told by one source that it strengthens the layers and another source that it weakens those layers instead.
ok. Im kinda new to this stuff so i was confused :\
Hi I'm new to this sort of thing, are these electronics able to fit into your other bot shrapnel??
Jack Freemantle yeah definitely, you'd just need to shorten wires where possible to get everything to fit and to keep it under weight
Adelaide Robot Combat ok thank you very much. Can I ask why you put the 3D print in acetone vapour?
Jack Freemantle partly for looks and partly in an effort to potentially strengthen the layers in the weaker upper rollcage section. Acetoning ABS prints leaves a nice glossy finish to the product too!
Hey I am making one now and I am only 13. I am also considering making my own ant weight club but I was curious if you have any advice?
That's great to hear! First thing to do is make your arena. Make it nice and simple, with a pit or two to keep things fun. Don't even worry about a shield just yet so you can start of with non-destructive stuff first. Next thing to do is pick a place and put the word out at school to see if anyone is interested. I started our group off in my back shed and eventually moved into community centers.
Good luck!
Adelaide Robot Combat Thanks, I currently have me my friend competing but I am moving to an engineering school so I can get the word out to fellow ‘nerds’
Adelaide Robot Combat just 1 thing about roll cage, I found that the body was 4inches so I had no space to attach wheels to my motors? Maybe I printed it wrong?
@@alexgermain2694 No that's right. Antweight bots in Australia don't have the 4 inch cube rule. We follow the SPARC ruleset which doesn't include that rule.
Adelaide Robot Combat oh ok thank you, I am based in the uk where the 4inch cube rule applies. I was wondering how you come up with ideas to make your bots as I am struggling to make a design where every thing fits, many thanks
that version of the engine 50: 1 you are using 6v or 12v, and how many rpm corresponds?
For example i find:
12v to 1200rpm
12v to 600rpm
6V 600rpm?
www.pololu.com/product/998
You can get various types of 50:1 motors and the 12V and 6V types would both work for you, just at different rpms. This website give you better details of each motor.
www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/494-50-1-Micro-Metal-Gearmotor-Low-Current
thanks for your answer, but since I will use 7.4v batteries 2s I would like you to know that you are using in this robot with this voltage 6v or 12v?
The motor in that link is the one I used, which is a 6V type. The 12V type would only give you a slower RPM
ok, 600 rpm 50: 1 or 1000 rpm 30: 1 you use the robots of this video?
I've used both before for this robot. The 30:1 I'll make the bot kick back a bit when taking off and your bot might be hard to handle but will still work. The 50:1 is easy to handle but could be slower than other bots. It's your personal choice on what speed you like your bot to be.
I would name it roadhog
Can you please tell me any problems with these esc's
Team KRACKEN there are none, they're just heavier and larger than you really need for an Antweight. They will work perfectly fine.
Adelaide Robot Combat thanks, I am sorry for bothering you
Cool but where is the weapon
It’s a wedge.
Build me one senpai
Which jst connector did you cut for the motors and the battery???
Jack Freemantle there were a few connectors that came with the esc's in this build and I cut them all so that I could solder them all in (to save weight). There was a male red connector which is your battery supply from the power switch. And also a female red connector which solders straight to the motors. There was also a switch on these particular esc's which I chopped off and shorted out on only one of the two esc's (this is the 5V BEC supply)