Antweight Combat Robot - Part 3: Electronics
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- I built an antweight class (1lb) combat robot for RoboGames 2015. This is a 3 part video series about the design, materials, weapon, and electronics that go into building a combat robot.
Here is a list of parts I used:
ZIPPY Compact 500mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...
D822/17 Brushless Outrunner 1100kv - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...
Afro Slim 20Amp Multi-rotor Motor Speed Controller - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...
TinyESC - www.sparkfun.com/products/13204
Micro Gearmotor - 460 RPM - www.sparkfun.com/products/12429
OrangeRx R410X DSMX Compatible 4Ch/6CH Receiver - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/st...
Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...
OrangeRX DSMX / DSM2 Compatible Module - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/st...
Garolite G-10 Plates - www.mcmaster.com/#9910t59/=yenlg2
Fingertech Mini Power Switch - www.robotmarketplace.com/produ... - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for taking the time to explain this all so well. I've always been intrigued by RC but never knew much about the details of the electronics. Very cool.
THANK YOU! I was so lost trying to figure out what each component did and how it worked within the robot. This totally cleared that up for me! THANK YOU!
You are amazing for actually answering so many of the questions in the comments.
Thanks! My goal is to actually help people learn, not just get views and money from UA-cam. It amazes me how so many people on UA-cam are more concerned with stats rather than actually teaching people. Unfortunately, those channels tend to be a LOT more popular then mine :-/
Super legit video. Definitely some things to consider before I build my next robot.
By the way, I loved this series it was very cool and informative. Subscribed. Thanks!
really really really underrated series! i loved it! thx so much helped me A LOT like A TON OF LOTS
You're welcome! I'm not so sure it's under-rated, it's probably the most viewed combat robot build on UA-cam.
Great video, thanks for posting :)
I enjoyed your series! Hope to see you at an event some point in the future!
I didn't realize this until recently, but the electronics for hobby RC / robotics are really well-integrated! The radio communication "just works", and I would guess that both the servo and ESC are controlled with PWM signals from the receiver?
My mindset (as an embedded developer and former FRC coder) is that I need to write all the code to translate controller inputs to the various digital controls. That definitely is still relevant for more complex systems, but if you just want to directly control a few motors with an RC controller, this is an amazing platform.
thanks for that really enjoyed the video
Great quality stuff, I'm learning a lot. Keep up the awesome work.
+Aaron Harlow Thanks, wait, uh, nice avatar?
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) haha! That's amazing, I created this one a few years ago so that's pretty funny. I should update it, my beard is twice as long now.
Awesome videos. I'm just now getting into battlebots and cnc and like to watch your videos for motivation and direction.
great! it's a really fun hobby but also quite challenging.
You've got a new subscriber!!! Really made me feel more confident to do mine very soon, can't wait for the other videos.
Thanks! I should have more videos soon. I'm almost done with my beetleweight and a couple small modifications to Cuddles.
@@RobertCowanDIY Same :D Also subbed, great channel! I posted another comment under this video where I have two questions regarding the vid. Would be cool to receive an answer ^^ Have a good evening!
great videos, they are helping me out a bunch, however im still strugaling to find out how the "mixer system" works for the drive.
Thank you very much! I was having trouble understanding fingertechs mini off switch, they owe you an endorsement.
Very informative video. Did you use a gearbox on that motor, or just connect it directly to the wheel?
Great series, I subbed. Please make more series like this but with different kinds of robots and weapons :)
I plan on it!
Excellent series of videos, proffesional and very newbie friendly. Really want to see more combat robots appear on this channel. Perhaps a featherweight will turn up after the 3lb beetleweight design?
+David Ashworth YES!!!
HA! I'm reading this comment after 3 years. At this time, I had no plans to make anything bigger, and now I have the #2 ranked featherweight right now. Looks like you predicted it!
Should i Connect the Battery to the Brushless esc or drive Speed controllers
hey why do you use OrangeRx R410X DSMX Compatible 4Ch/6CH Receiver instead of The turnigy that comes with the transmitter?
thanks a lot for the answer can you link a building plan maby?
Quite new to this hobby, what is your design process? It seems really efficient!
Hey Robert, great video! I'm just starting out with micro gearmotors and was wondering if a DasMikro 2S6A ESC has a built in BEC or a way of stepping down the voltage from my 7.4V LiPo? Thanks
I'm not familiar with this, but it looks like it has a 1A BEC, so it would work fine.
Hey man, awesome video! I really hope you see my comment, because I have two questions. I wanna build my own first ant (150 g) in October, when my exams are over (I started doing all the planning already).
I want it to be some sort of grabbing robot, similar to a lobster. Already made a drawing on some of the details. Now to my questions:
1. The servo claw construction you show in the beginning of the video looks awesome, where did you get it? I am still wonderinf whether fully custom claws are a good idea or not.
2. You showed some CAD clips; where did you get the files for all the basic parts like motors, battery, etc.? Because that would make the perflect planning a lot easier.
Thanks in advance :)
I don't want to discourage you, but 150 grams bots are pretty tricky to build, especially when they have active weapons. And ant (1lb) or beetle (3lb) would be my suggestion for a first bot. Regarding the servo, you can get it anywhere, it's a 9 gram servo, and that usually refers to the weight. Check sites like amazon or servocity.com. The claws were made by servocity, they have many different configurations, but you might find them too heavy to use on a 150 gram bot. I made all the files myself in CAD. It would be a good idea to watch my getting started video and use the resources available in the document linked in the video:
ua-cam.com/video/jZZfU_wlvYo/v-deo.html
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks for the answer :) I will definitely check that video out in the near future!
Interesting that you recommend not starting with an ant. From what I read and heard it is the typical beginner class. The problem is that I am from Europe and 1 pound bots are not that common, so this is no option for me. And the heavier, the more expensive bots get, too :o That was my thought process behind choosing an ant. Do you think that for my grabbing bot starting off with a Beetle rather than a European Ant is better for me as a beginner, both regarding _simplicity_ and _price_? Yet it would still be easy to switch the weight class :D
Hi Robert, great series! Would a 4-channel transmitter be able to control a weapon and move the robot? Sorry but I'm new to electronics and robot building, thanks.
4 channel radio systems will work fine with robots with weapons, as you need at least 2 channels to make a moving chassis as one channel goes to each wheel, you can use the throttle stick for a spinner motor or other weapon.
Los 2 motorreductores estás conectados al mismo esc?? Tendrás un diagrama de conección tengo una flysky fsi6 y quiero hacer uno de batalla. Thanks.
I like your style. I am thinking about making a dedicated custom PCB for my ant weight. More as a learning exercise, but if you have ever thought about this route and decided there are some great reasons not to do this, let me know and it may save me some trouble.
A Plus on the build and the manufacturing.
I have thought about that as well. It would be nice to clean up the wiring and basically have a board that just connects to a battery, and then out to the motors.
Also if i just connect it do the Brushless esc Will the only things connected to the receiver be the drive motors' speed controller, and the brushless esc
+BrainPain You need to connect all the motor controllers to the battery. They all need to get power. They also need to connect to the receiver for the signal. The battery will connect to 3 places in my design. It will connect to each of the drive ESCs, as well as the weapon ESC. Power is provided for the receiver through the drive ESCs, but each ESC still needs to connect to the receiver for a signal.
whenever i hook up my brushed gear motor to the esc and receiver it only spins in one direction but not the other. do you know what the problem is?
I want to use those FingerTech ESC's but they are kinda expensive. Are there any small ESC's that would suffice for a project like this or should I just pony up the money. Any responses would be appreciated!!
Yes, they are expensive. I don't know of any others that perform the same for less money, maybe other people have suggestions, but I'm not aware of any. The unfortunate fact is the combat robotics is a very expensive hobby and if you use cheaper parts, they will fail. You need very well-designed components. That being said, I've never broken a Tiny ESC, I have the original two running Cuddles. So, instead of buying several pairs, you might only need one set...
by the way you join the battery cables of all the 3 esc to get battery to all the motors don't you?
how did you configure the power switch so that it connects to the LIPO? If you buy it off of fingertech it doesn't come with any of the extra things that you had attached
Check some of the other comments, I've answered this one before. It wires in just like a switch. It just goes in-line with the red or black wire from your battery. I don't use connectors, I just soldered to the terminals.
Hi Robert, can you tell me how you wired the power switch? Thanks
It connects like a normal switch. I just use it to switch one and off the positive side of the battery.
Hi, I was wondering how you hooked up the drive motors. Do you have to do any programming of the controller to control the motors? You said there is some "internal mixing". What does that mean? I have an old radio controller and I am not sure this set up for driving the robot will work. Thanks.
The motors ultimately work just like the servos. The controllers just take a signal from the receiver and translate it into forward/backward movement. The mixing is for combining the left and right motors for tank steering. If you have a non-programmable radio, you would need to get a 'v-tail mixer' which allows for tank steering.
Thanks!
can you make a Video where you show the Elektronik in the bot? and what motors /speed calculator sorry for the bad englisch im german
Possibly. I might do a video just for the electronics because so many people have asked. I'm building two new robots in the next month, so maybe I'll include this.
Where did you get the CAD file for the D822/17 brushless motor?
I made my own. I just busted out the calipers and made the model from scratch. That's the bummer about most RC parts, there are no 3d models available, so you have to make your own. It's trial and error most of the time. For more complex stuff, I'll make a model, then 3d print it to see how close I got, then make changes until it looks right.
Great series! BTW what wheels do you use?
+Nico Myers Wheels are made by Pololu. I got them from SparkFun: www.sparkfun.com/products/8901
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Cool, thanks!
Your brushless motor wires connecting to your esc looks like the blue wire connects to the red and red wire connects to blue. Can you explain this please?
Correct, it does not matter where these wires go. It's not necessarily positive and negative like a brushed motor. The wires relate to the 'phases', so you can just connect all three and you're good.
So how do you connect all three with 1 battery?
How would you wire 4 wheel drive. Would you just wire two motors to each ESC. Thanks!
Yep, you are correct. You can connect as many motors as you want (brushed) to an ESC, as long as you don't exceed the max current, and they all travel the same direction.
very cool but what battery do you use??
Li-Po battery of some sort, he explains it in the video.
if i could just figure out the IC on that tiny speed controller... could probably make them for a lot cheaper
It's a PIC. You could certainly build the hardware, but the software has some special features you'd need to program. But it can be built cheaper for sure. But you pay markup for convenience (not having to make your own) and research and development.
How would you make a 4wd robot like the Oreo blizzard. Just only using 2 motors?
Doing this is problematic because the belts or chains that drive the other wheels tend to break very easily. I either do 2 motors and 2 wheels, or 4 motors with 4 wheels. With lightweight robots, it's hard to get good belts that won't break easily. When they break, they get tangled up and bind the wheels, causing problems.
In one part of the video, consider I am still learning english, was like:
'The battery must gwıfhıuwaehfuıo'
By the way great video.
how did u get the drive motors to mix and correspond to the stick directions on the transmitter? I have a Turnigy 5ch set and cannot get the drive motors to steer and go forwards and backwards properly. Do I need to get a programmable transmitter?
It's going to depend on your transmitter. Look up 'v-tail mixing' to figure it out. It's different for every radio. You're basically just mixing channels together.
Robert Cowan ok, thanks
Great build. Please did you make the 4 way female power connectors or did you buy them - and from where.
Thanks
I don't use a connector, it's just wires soldered together. One wire in, 3 wires out.
Right thanks, also for the switch are those AC jumper harnesses (ul1015) you're using?
I'm not sure what you're referring to.
I mean how are the wires connected to the fingertech screw switch terminals, the connector type e.g like JST is for the Lipo.
They are soldered. The switch is mounted to the chassis. A connector could rattle loose, which would be bad.
how did you get the drive to work with one joystick? does the transmitter do the mixing?
Check the comments and video. It's called v-tail mixing, tank steering, etc. If you have a programmable remote, you can program this in the remote, or you can get little modules that do this for you. I programmed mine into the remote.
do you need to drive ESC or do one to power the two Motors
+Kyle Stokes The ESC I'm using for the drive motors is a single channel, so it can only drive one motor (or two, but they would drive at the same speed/direction). So, I'm using 2 drive ESCs (two TinyESC, one for the left, one for the right). There are some dual channels out there, but they're not as small. I'm using the same ESC for my beetleweight and that's 4-wheel drive. I'm still using just two, each one driving two motors.
This is going to sound really stupid, but how do you hook up a battery to 3 escs using a 2 pronged switch?
what is the weight of the chassis alone? i di the math for mine (approximately 10mmx64mmx28mm) and it gives me a weight below 1g.. im not sure if it is possible
10mm is less than 1/2". Use centimeters instead :-)
I think my chassis is around 150 grams.
Hey Robert Cowan, is there any way you send a link of the Rules to a 1 pound ant weight combat robot?
Sure, check out this site: sparc.tools/ You can find all sorts of information there.
Also how does an airplane transmitter work for [essentially] a car?
+Kitsuné Blade It works the same way, the 'control surfaces' are just different. Instead of wings, you have wheels, instead of a rudder, you have auxiliary motors, etc. The buttons, knobs, etc on the controller just map to motors you're controlling.
please answer this
when i connect the n20 motor to the esc and connect the esc to the batt and receiver the motor only spins in one direction and even if i push the joystick to the other side nothing happens why does this happen
There are numerous forums and groups to get help. Please check out my Combat Robot Resource Guide, I tell you how to find the answers to your questions.
Any chance you might share the file for your frame? I would love to mill one out on my machine.
where did you get the wheels, thanks
do we need to buy another reciever? doesnt the control come with one already.
I bought a FlySky FS-T6 from amazon and it came with a receiver for £40, most of that cost was the transmitter as you can buy Flysky 2.4ghz receivers for around £5. Still experimenting with it but have had no issues as such yet.
My brushed esc is stopped working it is only blinking alternately what gone wrong,can you help me
They can do this. You might need to run it through calibration again. If that doesn't work, use a new one!
Hey Robert i simply want "electrical connection digram" of these combat robot...plz..it has difficult to understand the connections..plzz help
+saurabh somoshi Sorry, I do not have an electrical schematic. If you follow the video closely, I go over the electrical connections.
This question is a little off topic, but what brand/kind of microphone are you using? I want to buy one for video tutorials and am not sure which one to get. Thanks
+David Groff I don't know what microphone he uses but many youtubers use "Blue Microphones Snowball" it costs about $90 in Sweden
+Adam Olsson I actually use a $20 lavalier mic from Amazon: www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR3350IS-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451921281&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier
The thing about lavalier mics is they only pick up sound from your voice. Using a desktop mic like the snowball will pickup a lot of extra background sounds. If you simply want to do narration and voice-over, a lav mic is the cheapest and easiest way to go.
That's cheap :) Thanks for the tip.
What is the capacitor that comes with the tinyESC for?
It's used to reduce spikes and noise coming from the motor. Depending on the type of motor you use, you may or may not need them.
Do you have extra parts in your car or is it just what's on the descriptions
+Gamer Novazyy- All the main components are listed in the description. There may be some extra pieces like screws and wires that aren't listed, but the bulk of it is there.
To what wire does the power switch connect to? I a working on a 3d printed flipper-bot and plan to use this switch.
It's just like a normal switch. It just disconnects one of your power wires. So if you have a postive and negative wire going from the battery to the rest of your electronics, it just 'switches' one of those wires on or off. people traditionally connect the switch to the positive wire. The other wire just goes straight to the electronics.
Robert Cowan THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH! That make total sense!
i'm making my own 150gram robot now, using the internals of a rc plane that was £2.00/$2.45
back again sir, so the wires and stuff how many do you need because i went to make one of my own and i need to now how much motters and wires i need for the bot. I.E 4x brushless outrunner. i need to now how much money i need :/
It really depends on the design. You need a motor controller for every motor you plan to use. If you are using a brushless motor, you need a brushless ESC. If you are using brushed motors, you need a motor controller for those as well. If you are using 4 drive motors, you can use a single speed/motor controller per side. But generally speaking, you will need a controller for every motor.
ok thank you
how did you scale 10 amps for 3mins to half an amp for 1 hour
If you have a 1 amp per hour battery, it can use 1 amp continuously for that hour, but if you have a 10c discharge battery, it can do 10 amps continuously for 6 minutes. 20c will run at 20a for 3 minutes.
could you make a robot step by step
ps. maby for a 3d printer or can you send me mor teknical details like sizes and hight...
Send me an email and I can send you the design files. You can 3d print them if you want, not sure how it would turn out. You can find my email in the 'about' section of my channel.
hello me can help with the diagram of connections and the planning of robot .please ...
This is all the information I have. I will be making a series of videos addressing the basics of how to design combat robots in the next month or so.
:( Plz help: for some reason, my transmitter (a turnigy 9x) somehow got set so that when I used it to run my motor set in channel 1 (which should be throttle) it is controlled (in a really odd way) by my aileron. I cleared my transmitter, thinking it would reset it, but the problem didn't get fixed. Do I need to reset my esc somehow, or is it a problem with the transmitter? It was working fine before...
+Adam Hung Yup, I used a different transmitter and the same thing happened. Can the esc program itself? If so, how do i reset it?
+Adam Hung nvm fixed...
+Adam Hung How did you fix it?
+Kitsuné Blade Just do the jumper cable thing. And if that doesn't work, just buy a new one... several of mine came broken or partially broken. I'm happy to answer any other questions you have though if you need more help. I'm done with my robot now.
do you need the speed controllers in order to turn or can I be cheap and not get them?
+Kitsuné Blade Well, yes. You need something to control the motors. You can build a robot without them, but you won't be able to control it. You COULD use simple mosfets to just turn the motors on and off, but you'd lose speed control (it would only be on or off), and you wouldn't be able to reverse direction. It's a pretty critical part of the system.
Robert Cowan I'm new to R/C- I thought when a receiver got a signal it flipped a switch just like a relay would.
+Kitsuné Blade Nope, the receivers use PCM (pulse code modulation), which is a digital signal. Also, you need to control the voltage/current going to the motor, so you at least need something to do that.
do i need 2 esc for a 2 wheels robot?
+leo pikka You need an ESC for each motor. I am using a total of 3 ESCs in my robot, one for the weapon and one for each of the drive motors. They do make dual ESCs for driving two motors with a single ESC. Does that help?
I still can't find anything that works. Can I please have a link for the programming?
+Adam Hung Or what you did. Lefty is fine.
is there a diferant type of miterial that i can make the chassis out of that is light but strong
Sure, you could use wood, sheet metal, foam, just use your imagination!
Thank you
Do you know what type of weapon i could use
ok i don't have the mechine to do that though
It's like Tony Stewards Sprint cars dirt racing , bring a $150,000 sprint car to a local race event at $3000 to win
Cuddles is actually pretty cheap in comparison with some of the stuff today!
Could you explain the maths of how to find the capacity of the battery sorry I could not understand what you said
this is tricky. The best way to go about it is to determine the max power draw for your weapon and for the drive, and then multiply it by half, then figure out what that would be for 3 minutes. It really depend on how much you are driving, how often the weapon spins up and down, etc. I usually just do half the max of each, then try to sustain that for 3 minutes.
but according to your maths you should only need a 200-280 milli amps per hour
correct. but you also have to think about maximum current draw. a really small battery can't provide much current. batteries are rated at "C" for discharge. If a battery is 10C, and it's a 1AH, that would mean it can delivery 10 amps (10C x 1AH). A very small battery (250mAh), rated at 50C would only be able to deliver 12.5A peak (0.25 * 50), whereas a larger capacity at the same discharge rating (350mAh) would be able to provide more current (0.35 * 50) or 17.5A. The extra capacity helps with providing more current. But I can run two full matches on 350mAh, but I can't get the weapon up to speed as quickly with a smaller battery. It's a trade-off.
thank you for explaining that
the battery is out of stock so do you have any other recommendations?
another question i had was wat kind of breakout board i need to use?
It depends on your design. You can also check eBay or Amazon for the battery, I've found them there too. But any battery with similar specs should work. Also, I'm not sure what you mean by a breakout board, there's nothing needed other than the motor controllers, switch, and RC receiver.
thnx for answering I found some batteries with almost the same specs, about the breakout board.....I found a website with an explanation of the parts of a battle bot. A breakout board was one of those parts but it really confused me, now i know why. Thanks a lot for answering so quick :D
How do you connect the drive ESCs to the receiver?? Thanks
+Nico Myers - They have 3-pin connectors that just plug directly into the receiver. There are enough channels on the receiver, so they each plug into their own channel, and they are mixed in the radio. Does that make sense?
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Kind of but which channels specifically? Do you mean you plugged the left motor into aileron and the right motor into elevator and then mixed those? Thanks again
+Nico Myers Yes, exactly. If you don't have a radio that can do v-tail mixing, you can also buy a v-tail mixer that plugs in between the ESC and the receiver, and does the same thing. But essentially, each one is its own channel.
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Ah, thanks that makes sense.
could you please tell me how to select motors for any all weight limit bot?\
that's a REALLY broad question. You need to pick your motors based on your electronics and the overall design. The motors that would work for a wedge robot might not be the right ones for a vertical spinner for example. The motors really need to fit your design goals.
thank you very much but I want to know that which motor will serve best in case of drumbot of 50kg weight limit and weight of drum is between 15 to 22 kg and price should be under 150 dollars( 9000 indian rupees).
This is still really broad. To pick a motor, you need to know what voltage you plan on running, how fast you need to spin the drum (based on the diameter), what your spin-up time is, how much weight you have allocated for the motor, etc, etc. There are many factors that go into choosing a motor, and they are YOUR decisions, not mine.
Ok thank you very much
one thing I want to ask which components you have used for making it wireless and also its cost?
Hi, about the "3-pin jumper cables," can you give me a link for the ones you got? I'm using the same parts as you. Also, do they fit perfectly with the escs and power switch?
Thanks
+Adam Hung I got them from hobby king. They're just 3-pin 0.1" spaced connectors. They are called servo extenders usually. If you look on hobby king, ebay, amazon, etc, you can find them easily.
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Thanks (I am something of a complete beginner). How did you connect the escs to the one throttle? I've looked all over the internet but I can't figure it out.
Thanks again.
+Adam Hung Are you talking about the drive motors? the weapon motor is connected to throttle. In the video I mention v-tail mixing or tank steering. this will be unique to your transmitter. You'll need to look up how to enable this for your transmitter.
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Yes, the drive motors. I have the same transmitter as you. How do you put the motors into a single control on the transmitter?
+Adam Hung You don't really use a single control, you are mixing two controls. So, when you press 'up' on the stick, it makes both go one way, down makes them both go in the opposite direction, and left/right makes them spin opposite of eachother. Search youtube for "Turnigy 9x Tank", it will show you how to setup v-tail mixing, or tank steering. I can't tell you on mine because I've configured mine really strange because I'm a lefty. There are plenty of tutorials on youtube about it.
can you have more capacity than you need?
Of course. The battery in Cuddles is actually oversized. I've fought two matches with it, without recharging. And then went and filmed the video for it without recharging... It's a good idea to test the weapon and drive motors to see what they actually consume and base your measurements from that. I actually drive my robot around for 3 minutes (on a timer) and hit stuff, etc and then look at the battery afterwards to see how much it got depleted.
Thank you very much
were can you get all this stuff???
check the description, there are links to almost everything.
thx bro
arent u affraid that the batterie might get smash since nothihing reains it inside?
Not really. It's pretty protected inside the chassis and underneath the G10. Even though the armor is pretty thin, it can withstand a lot of force.
but the force when u hit someone cannot destroy it?
Having the electronics just sitting in the chassis with no real anchor can help reduce shock damage, besides LiPo cells are tougher and safer than what people think.
How much did you spend on it
With all the spare parts and testing, I spent around $350 or so.
how exactly do you keep the spinner on while driving??
This is reversed from normal because I'm left-handed, but I use the left stick for driving, and the right stick for throttle. So the left stick is spring-loaded and returns to center, and drives the robot forward/backward and left/right. The right stick does not return to center and is used to control throttle or power to the weapon motor.
Robert Cowan can you make a vid on how to make it? Plz
If I get some more time, I want to do a whole series on the basics.
Robert Cowan thx
Wait. Is that the original firmware running on the Turnigy radio?
Tilman Baumann - Yep. The only thing I did with the radio was switch the joysticks (I'm a lefty and wanted the throttle on the right), and I added a backlight.
Boy you are missing out.
Check out www.open-tx.org
;-)
Tilman Baumann Oh, I'm aware. I haven't needed to change anything yet though, so it's staying stock for now.
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) Hello! Why do you need the OrangeRx DSMX / DSM2 Compatible 2.4Ghz Transmitter Module and OrangeRx R410X DSMX Compatible 4Ch/6CH PWM/CPPM 2.4Ghz Receiver instead of just using the one that's included with the Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver ?
Adam Olsson The built in Flysky RF stuff is pretty horrible.
Most Turnigy 9x are actually sold without a module. Because nobody wants it.
Could you not run two of those tiny motors off one esc?
Nope, the ESC can only drive a single motor/channel. Dual motor controllers exist, but I used single channel ESCs.
@@RobertCowanDIY OK thanks so if had two motors on each side I could use one esc for two motors on one side and one for the two motors on the other side?
@@Crazyoldman84 Correct, they can drive one "side" or one "channel", but not two different sides. So you can easily use them to drive one or two motors, as long as they are doing the same thing. But if the motors need to turn different directions, you need a different ESC for that.
@@RobertCowanDIY brilliant thanks I'm making a 150g bot👍
@@Crazyoldman84 You'll probably find that with a 150g bot, you will only be able to do 2 motors. Good luck!
how do u charge the battery?
+leo pikka I use an Imax B6. They are all over eBay and Amazon. They are pretty inexpensive and get the job done, but there are much better chargers out there.
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) www.ebay.com/itm/IMax-B6-AC-Digital-LCD-RC-Lipo-NiMh-NiCD-Battery-Balance-Charger-Power-Adapter-/271832639067?hash=item3f4a7ce65b:g:kR4AAOSwa39Uwl3U
thanks :D
+leo pikka Yep, that will work! there are a LOT of knock-offs, and that one most likely is a knock-off, but I have a couple and they work just fine.
Hey.. I need your little help.. R u there?
how much for the robot and the remote
With all the pieces, maybe around $500. I didn't keep track, but it all adds up pretty quickly.
Ok because i would like to make an antwight robot
What about the chassis
How much for the chassis? Like, you want to buy it, or how much did it cost me? The material was only around $20.
Where were you taught how to make rc robots?????
+Thecalmcreeper 24 I learned mostly through google and youtube. I also have a friend that's pretty heavy into robotics. most of it was just from watching a lot of videos and researching. I plan on doing a lot more videos in 2016 with a lot of explanation.
Robert Cowan I'll try to do the same then!
how much for the cassis
Are you asking to buy it, because it's not for sale.
Ok is just that i want to build an antwight robot that can beat my freind
Sure. But the material is very cheap, but you would need a CNC machine to make it. But you can try something different. Expect to spend at least $200 on a simple antweight robot. Most of the cost is in the electronics and remote.
how much? I wanted to buy.
$5000.
it is to much.what is the weight .
+Robert Cowan (Rowen Hobbies) if i had that could i bye one?
Please respond to the comment below :(
Oh, Sgt. Cuddles! I fell in love with a pair of googly eyes - and they almost got me arrested.
You see, I thought it might be fun to put some on the front of a T-shirt but as I'm somewhat... er, 'top-heavy', the result of my running for a bus caused rush-hour traffic chaos in London.
I had to spend an hour sitting on the Naughty Step thinking about what I'd done.
I'm such a bad girl...
omg It,s Too Expensive. its Is Better to get a rc Car And Then turn it To fighting robot.
you COULD, but you will find that they aren't strong enough and are too heavy. building combat robots is pretty expensive.
Robert Cowan thank for replying and you get a New Subscriber.