The general standard you'll see with a lot of pros for field sports is a combination of 400/2.8 and 70-200/2.8. There's a big enough gap between 400 and 200 to transition between the two if the action is coming at you. I agree that a 24-70 is only really good if you're getting candids on the sidelines. I will tell you that when I had a 300, before my 400, I often found myself unable to transition fast enough between my two camera bodies as the 300 was so close to 200. Another great option is a 120-300/2.8. The zoom range is excellent for football (except when they're on the other side of the field). When I'm using that lens, I often just carry around one camera body.
I used to have a Sigma 120-300 and LOVED it! I feel that with the 300 and 200 being too close for a simple transition, ive been working on my fast draw! HA! Thanks for coming through Jack, have a good one!
I really enjoy watching these videos as it’s a genre of photography that I don't usually follow and find it super interesting to watch! Hope all is well man!
Oh thats a thought. I do find myself watching topics I don't often follow and Now I am fully all in on this house build video series on here. It's a nice change. All is good here! Loved the recent video!
Have you ever tried or considered trying the 24-105 f2.8 on the second body? You can still have the wide end while also getting a lot more reach than the 24-70.
I'm a dad of a couple of sports kids (soccer and track). Typically, I shoot during the day, so i don't have a lot of experience with night games ... but i will be shooting a few. Do you see a downside to full manual settings (no auto ISO)? I also have an R6, and the one time I shot at night, I felt like the camera was wildly changing the ISO. As you said, you get some latitude in post to lighten or darken. I think that might be better than auto ISO.
Auto iso is going to be crazy at night since it’s going to be grabbing the dark background and trying to adjust for all of that. You could try aperture priority and set the iso where you’re comfortable to get the shutter speed you want. I’ve done that quite often and it seemed to work well.
The general standard you'll see with a lot of pros for field sports is a combination of 400/2.8 and 70-200/2.8. There's a big enough gap between 400 and 200 to transition between the two if the action is coming at you. I agree that a 24-70 is only really good if you're getting candids on the sidelines. I will tell you that when I had a 300, before my 400, I often found myself unable to transition fast enough between my two camera bodies as the 300 was so close to 200. Another great option is a 120-300/2.8. The zoom range is excellent for football (except when they're on the other side of the field). When I'm using that lens, I often just carry around one camera body.
I used to have a Sigma 120-300 and LOVED it! I feel that with the 300 and 200 being too close for a simple transition, ive been working on my fast draw! HA! Thanks for coming through Jack, have a good one!
I really enjoy watching these videos as it’s a genre of photography that I don't usually follow and find it super interesting to watch! Hope all is well man!
Oh thats a thought. I do find myself watching topics I don't often follow and Now I am fully all in on this house build video series on here. It's a nice change. All is good here! Loved the recent video!
Have you ever tried or considered trying the 24-105 f2.8 on the second body?
You can still have the wide end while also getting a lot more reach than the 24-70.
If I had the money I probably would run it. When I rented it. I really liked it.
I'm a dad of a couple of sports kids (soccer and track). Typically, I shoot during the day, so i don't have a lot of experience with night games ... but i will be shooting a few. Do you see a downside to full manual settings (no auto ISO)? I also have an R6, and the one time I shot at night, I felt like the camera was wildly changing the ISO. As you said, you get some latitude in post to lighten or darken. I think that might be better than auto ISO.
Auto iso is going to be crazy at night since it’s going to be grabbing the dark background and trying to adjust for all of that. You could try aperture priority and set the iso where you’re comfortable to get the shutter speed you want. I’ve done that quite often and it seemed to work well.
Are you sending them to an FTP server like with Photo Shelter or to a DropBox or Email?
Just email.