Loosen up the caliper so it has a little movement then spin the wheel & fully apply the brake lever & keep it held on then tighten up the caliper whilst holding the brake Still on & when youre done they'll not bind at all. 👍🏻
I also suggest you try some new sintered pads & change your levers to Shimano XT. They're awesome levers & even make Shimano mt200 calipers feel like a £2000 set up. I have them on some mt200 & also a set of Avid Juicy 3's & they're epic. The way a lever can change the whole braking is mind blowing
I do plan to try sintered pads on the new Shimano rotor to see if they help. You used Shimano levers on Avid brakes using DOT brake fluid? That's quite the combo as those levers are intended to be used with mineral oil filled brakes.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 I know people who have used baby oil for over a year in their brakes & when checked over 12mth later there was no degradation of seals or anything & worked just as good. Don't be scared to try new things especially when we aren't using the brakes to their full potential with the riding we do. 😉👍🏻
Magnesium in the center of the Ice Tech discs transfers the heat. I have them on mine as standard with 4-piston XT calipers. Once bedded in, they are amazing. Bedded in fast. A couple of rides around the park were done. The difference in the fronts is crazy stopping power.
I'd fine tune the brake after the disc swap to have spot on contact of the pads with the discs. Of course going like that will eventually wear one side off more than the other. For the best brake performance you should target equal distance to the discs from both sides in the caliper and make sure that all 4 pistons come out equally far when pressing the brake lever. A lot of performance and braking power is lost when only some of the pistons push the pad against the disc, even more so if totally unevenly like when one side already contacts without even braking. Another issue with that is that it warps the disc under heavy use if the discs gets pushed off center. Those Shimano XT rotors are pretty good when it comes to heat dissipation. Spider is aluminium, outer ring is steel. They do warp pretty easily though since both used metals have different expansion coefficients. Regarding raw braking power, there should be a difference. There is a plus in leverage where the pads contact the discs. Bigger radius. Should be equivalent to the percentage of the increase in size.
I ran into the same problem you did with the bolt length being too long when I switched to a different frame actually. Except my problem was more expensive because I bought some titanium bronze colored bolts so I now have $20 in titanium bolts just sitting in my parts bin. I ended up buying some shorter steel gold colored bolts on Amazon to replace them.
I have shimano SM-MA F203P/PM adaptor for my 203mm ice tech it had an indentation instead of that straight bar for the caliper to seat into, ive left the code its not expensive 14 bucks! you'll get over heating until you change to a 4 piston set up just how it is with a single piston i got mine as standard on my new emtb front and rear absolutely outstanding its the calipers holding them back now
Good vid man. What compound pads are you using? I reckon the size upgrade is worth it but also maybe try a new pad with it and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks, I've been using semi-metallic pads. When I originally tried sintered pads they often made a howling noise that I did not enjoy, although I noticed later my original rotors specifically say not to use full metallic pads. I haven't tried them on the new Shimano rotor however. If they are reasonably quiet and perform better, I'll be sold.
Loosen up the caliper so it has a little movement then spin the wheel & fully apply the brake lever & keep it held on then tighten up the caliper whilst holding the brake Still on & when youre done they'll not bind at all. 👍🏻
I also suggest you try some new sintered pads & change your levers to Shimano XT. They're awesome levers & even make Shimano mt200 calipers feel like a £2000 set up. I have them on some mt200 & also a set of Avid Juicy 3's & they're epic. The way a lever can change the whole braking is mind blowing
I do plan to try sintered pads on the new Shimano rotor to see if they help. You used Shimano levers on Avid brakes using DOT brake fluid? That's quite the combo as those levers are intended to be used with mineral oil filled brakes.
@@chasingmyfreedom3642 I know people who have used baby oil for over a year in their brakes & when checked over 12mth later there was no degradation of seals or anything & worked just as good. Don't be scared to try new things especially when we aren't using the brakes to their full potential with the riding we do. 😉👍🏻
Magnesium in the center of the Ice Tech discs transfers the heat. I have them on mine as standard with 4-piston XT calipers. Once bedded in, they are amazing. Bedded in fast. A couple of rides around the park were done. The difference in the fronts is crazy stopping power.
I'd fine tune the brake after the disc swap to have spot on contact of the pads with the discs. Of course going like that will eventually wear one side off more than the other. For the best brake performance you should target equal distance to the discs from both sides in the caliper and make sure that all 4 pistons come out equally far when pressing the brake lever. A lot of performance and braking power is lost when only some of the pistons push the pad against the disc, even more so if totally unevenly like when one side already contacts without even braking. Another issue with that is that it warps the disc under heavy use if the discs gets pushed off center.
Those Shimano XT rotors are pretty good when it comes to heat dissipation. Spider is aluminium, outer ring is steel. They do warp pretty easily though since both used metals have different expansion coefficients.
Regarding raw braking power, there should be a difference. There is a plus in leverage where the pads contact the discs. Bigger radius. Should be equivalent to the percentage of the increase in size.
I ran into the same problem you did with the bolt length being too long when I switched to a different frame actually. Except my problem was more expensive because I bought some titanium bronze colored bolts so I now have $20 in titanium bolts just sitting in my parts bin. I ended up buying some shorter steel gold colored bolts on Amazon to replace them.
I have shimano SM-MA F203P/PM adaptor for my 203mm ice tech it had an indentation instead of that straight bar for the caliper to seat into, ive left the code its not expensive 14 bucks! you'll get over heating until you change to a 4 piston set up just how it is with a single piston i got mine as standard on my new emtb front and rear absolutely outstanding its the calipers holding them back now
Good vid man. What compound pads are you using? I reckon the size upgrade is worth it but also maybe try a new pad with it and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks, I've been using semi-metallic pads. When I originally tried sintered pads they often made a howling noise that I did not enjoy, although I noticed later my original rotors specifically say not to use full metallic pads. I haven't tried them on the new Shimano rotor however. If they are reasonably quiet and perform better, I'll be sold.
I use rattle gun on 40nm😂
Get some Shimano brakes instead, you won't regret it.
People coping with made in china parts just cause its cheap. Buy somthing japanese or european, problem solved....
I can't finish watching this video...🙄🥱😔