you are correct about the capacitor started compressors, however they are not so common in domestic aircon units, but I will be going into detail on how that system works when I get a good example to show. what I was explaining here was a capacitor run compressor that has the run cap permanently connected, unlike a start cap which does need a potential relay.
the windings are different inside when looking at a single phase compressor vs a 3 phase. on a single phase comp there are 2 sets of windings, start and run, and the other end of those windings intersect at the Common terminal. on a 3 phase compressor, there are 3 sets and a common internal connection that connects them in Star, the klixon thermal switch is usually used as this common point
I rarelt see a AC unit use a PTC thermistor or potential relay to run the compressor, if anything they have a start cap and changeover relay for hard starting under back pressure, but open up any generic single phase AC unit, split or package. and its wired as i showed on the board. the capacator creates the phase separation needed to run.
I Guess you would call it a PSC here, I have not done the full course (2 years long) but it does in fact create the 2 phase condition, hence why it can run on only 2 winding sets, as opposed to 3 for a 3 phase comp
Looks like its the same as 4 wire bench grinder motors, the start/run neutral wires are joined inside instead of outside the motor. start winding has a different resistance to the run. Nice and quick tutorial :-)
The cap is not really there to limit any current (it's an sideeffect though, that's used for motors that run in only one direction). The main reason is, as you also said to create a phase shifted current in the second winding. This results in a rotating magnetic field needed to turn the motor. There are motors where there's no difference between the run and the start winding. These motors can run in both direction depending to which leg you connect the cap.
Interesting: I realize that my example implies 3 coils, but with a single phase with start coil its more like the capacitor start leg gives a phase pattern of: on-->on->pause to the 2 coil magnetic fields so the direction is implied until the motor is up to speed and then the start coil is cut-out by a centrifugal or electronic switch. Then the pulsing single phase maintains rotation.
Thanks a lot for the simple explanation of wiring diagram. The novice technician failed to properly connect capacitor to compressor to live and neutral terminals and with your help, my ac is now nunning alllll right after the tech having told me that the compressor is burnt out...lol.....a thousand thanks to again AUSSIE50...:)
I'm trying to learn what the Run Start and Common wires mean on a condenser fan motor and I also see they're on the compressor also. I don't understand what Start and Run mean. I'd like to learn more about these three things.
continuing from previous comment: If you wire a normal kitchen-fridge compressor like that, the start winding won't last long, since you're feeding it a 90 degrees out of phase single-phase. However, for the way compressors are designed, there is an overload protection in the relay assembly that will shut down the power, preventing this scenario to happen.
i'm not a compressors experts but in my opinion, as far as my experience goes, you're making a little bit of confusion. The diagram you showed on the board is used to run 3-phase motors with 1 phase getting 2/3 of the power out of them. In this case all three windings are equal, otherwise you need the neutral wire for the unbalanced load (4 wires).
my mate has some kind of water chiller but it runs like a normal refrigerator on it's back and it doesn't use a fan or any thing like that. you just fill it with water and switch it on
Hi, I have a question.... I have a Matsushita compresor 2PV132N7BC02 model. Also the run, start and common wires, but... The resitance between each 2 wires is 2ohms as you said on video for a 3 phase compressor... As long as I know it was runing on a monophase current before i disassembled it (I'm 99% sure of that)... Here is the problem... I didn't saved the capacitor, so I can't wire it as you shown on video (I assume I should wire it that way for that 2-2-2ohm readings), I searched on the internet, and it says there's no compressor capacitor. So could you help me wire it so I could use it as air compressor? Please help me, and thanks a lot!
G'day Ed, I have a Tecumseh kirby fridge compressor that still ohms up good but is missing all of the running gear. I have an appropriate cap that will power it but didn't get the relay (if it even uses one) is there a way I can run it without the relay or do I need to look for one for it?
mmm this vid reminds me of the big compressor i have from the container chiller. still havent figured out which way it runs, maybe thats a project for tomorrow :)
mr, I just built a machine to om ships frame, 3 phase motor, sprecher schur starter, expensive, prom is i cant make the coil engage, 414 vac coil, press start, nothing, hold contactor in, motor runs through built in thermal o/l, should i run voltage to a1 a2, if i did that the contactor would stay in, NOBODY V AN help, been on it a week, any help be grateful for
In USA our most recent National Electric Code says that for new households nearly all circuits must be Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter breakers, and they also include GFCI (RCD) functionality if I remember correctly.
continuing from the previous comment: For the start charge (in the scheme you draw), you need a PTC resistor (called klixon or something) that keeps the winding excited just for the small time required by the motor to start running. If i'm wrong, please correct me.
ah alright, i guess i misunderstood what you said at 6:00 "start winding only wants enough charge to get the motor running", i interpreted it as "after an initial charge the cap will act like a switch and isolate the start winding" which of course, does not. Thanks for the clarification.
Hi, I wanted to make this silent compressor so I got from my friend the ac compressor (from external unit) and I was wandering whether you would be able to help me with connection of my ac compressor ( ac was single phase) but there wasn't separate capacitor as I can see on some UA-cam videos, there was whole like main board from computer and there were few capacitors, any way on the compressor itself is a label which says 148VDC, at 120Hz, and I have no idea how to connect it to a power supply
A good way understand the cap start phase(alos 3phase) is to think of a string of blinking Christmas lights. If only 2 are alternating, one time it looks like its going one way and if you blink it might look like its going the opposite way. It you have a 3 bulb-pattern, the direction is clearly seen. The start phase cap is shifting that leg just enough to give a sense of direction.
mine keeps blowing the barker it works because it did work in the hvac i got it from i have it wired right im 100 % sure but it keeps blowing the barker instantly when i power it on my theory is that the inrush current is too big because the compressor is huge and power full but i don't know if im right and if i am how do i fix it
Thanks for a simple to understand explanation of what goes where and why. I have a water tank pump that I just replaced the bearings on, now it won't start! I'll check out the start and run windings with my multimeter, just need to let that big fat capacitor discharge first! (Scared myself when I put a screwdriver across it the first time - power removed of course).
I have a 240 60hz compressor out of an AC unit along with the multi cap. I have tried to find your vid on how to wire a multi cap but have had no luck. Is it still available?
Most of the world uses single phase 240V, where the difference between line and neutral is nominally 240V. You are thinking of the American dual phase 240V plug, like a NEMA 10 device, where the only points that have a difference of 240V is between two phases and the difference between either phase and neutral is nominally 120V. As an aside, there is a standard NEMA 14 plug with two phases, a neutral, and a ground that is commonly used as a generator hook up.
In the USA here we have L1 and L2 which are 2 branches of 110vac with Neutral as the common return. Our Neutral is at the same potential as the ground but the two should never be connected except at the junction box. This way if one of the hots(L1,L2) short to the casing, they short to ground. Some circuits don't include the neutral. Breakers or fusing should always go on the Hots(L1,L2) side.
Thanks for the video Ed. I appreciate your videos a whole heap more now that im doing a pre-apprenticeship. Keep up the good work mate.
you are correct about the capacitor started compressors, however they are not so common in domestic aircon units, but I will be going into detail on how that system works when I get a good example to show. what I was explaining here was a capacitor run compressor that has the run cap permanently connected, unlike a start cap which does need a potential relay.
the windings are different inside when looking at a single phase compressor vs a 3 phase. on a single phase comp there are 2 sets of windings, start and run, and the other end of those windings intersect at the Common terminal. on a 3 phase compressor, there are 3 sets and a common internal connection that connects them in Star, the klixon thermal switch is usually used as this common point
I rarelt see a AC unit use a PTC thermistor or potential relay to run the compressor, if anything they have a start cap and changeover relay for hard starting under back pressure, but open up any generic single phase AC unit, split or package. and its wired as i showed on the board. the capacator creates the phase separation needed to run.
yeh, I messed up there, its for phase shifting so the motor runs, and does not stay in a locked rotor condition
I Guess you would call it a PSC here, I have not done the full course (2 years long) but it does in fact create the 2 phase condition, hence why it can run on only 2 winding sets, as opposed to 3 for a 3 phase comp
Looks like its the same as 4 wire bench grinder motors, the start/run neutral wires are joined inside instead of outside the motor.
start winding has a different resistance to the run.
Nice and quick tutorial :-)
this comp is just a baby :D, I have had much bigger ones from Mitsubishi Electric and Bristol
The cap is not really there to limit any current (it's an sideeffect though, that's used for motors that run in only one direction). The main reason is, as you also said to create a phase shifted current in the second winding. This results in a rotating magnetic field needed to turn the motor. There are motors where there's no difference between the run and the start winding. These motors can run in both direction depending to which leg you connect the cap.
Damn that's one huge ass hermetic compressor. I'm used to split ac units compressors and i have forgot the massive piping the bigger units have.
Interesting: I realize that my example implies 3 coils, but with a single phase with start coil its more like the capacitor start leg gives a phase pattern of: on-->on->pause to the 2 coil magnetic fields so the direction is implied until the motor is up to speed and then the start coil is cut-out by a centrifugal or electronic switch. Then the pulsing single phase maintains rotation.
Thanks a lot for the simple explanation of wiring diagram. The novice technician failed to properly connect capacitor to compressor to live and neutral terminals and with your help, my ac is now nunning alllll right after the tech having told me that the compressor is burnt out...lol.....a thousand thanks to again AUSSIE50...:)
I'm trying to learn what the Run Start and Common wires mean on a condenser fan motor and I also see they're on the compressor also. I don't understand what Start and Run mean. I'd like to learn more about these three things.
Thats a good rule to go by if you know the motor HP!
its a GFI switch, just a different name over here
continuing from previous comment:
If you wire a normal kitchen-fridge compressor like that, the start winding won't last long, since you're feeding it a 90 degrees out of phase single-phase. However, for the way compressors are designed, there is an overload protection in the relay assembly that will shut down the power, preventing this scenario to happen.
i'm not a compressors experts but in my opinion, as far as my experience goes, you're making a little bit of confusion. The diagram you showed on the board is used to run 3-phase motors with 1 phase getting 2/3 of the power out of them. In this case all three windings are equal, otherwise you need the neutral wire for the unbalanced load (4 wires).
my mate has some kind of water chiller but it runs like a normal refrigerator
on it's back and it doesn't use a fan or any thing like that.
you just fill it with water and switch it on
Hey mate. Does. The compressors that. Run off of 120 for. Refrigerator and Window air conditioning
is this the same for north America with too live wires and no neutral at 250v 60 hz
Genuinely one of the best videos explaining this. Thank you. UA-cam seems to hide knowledge.
Hi, I have a question....
I have a Matsushita compresor 2PV132N7BC02 model. Also the run, start and common wires, but...
The resitance between each 2 wires is 2ohms as you said on video for a 3 phase compressor... As long as I know it was runing on a monophase current before i disassembled it (I'm 99% sure of that)... Here is the problem... I didn't saved the capacitor, so I can't wire it as you shown on video (I assume I should wire it that way for that 2-2-2ohm readings), I searched on the internet, and it says there's no compressor capacitor. So could you help me wire it so I could use it as air compressor? Please help me, and thanks a lot!
can you show how your breaker panel is setup? im interested to see one from Australia compared mine here in the states.
Mate this is the video I wish I had when doing my apprenticeship
G'day Ed, I have a Tecumseh kirby fridge compressor that still ohms up good but is missing all of the running gear. I have an appropriate cap that will power it but didn't get the relay (if it even uses one)
is there a way I can run it without the relay or do I need to look for one for it?
hi sir split. related videos upload sir you are explain very good thanku so much
mmm this vid reminds me of the big compressor i have from the container chiller.
still havent figured out which way it runs, maybe thats a project for tomorrow :)
mr, I just built a machine to om ships frame, 3 phase motor, sprecher schur starter, expensive, prom is i cant make the coil engage, 414 vac coil, press start, nothing, hold contactor in, motor runs through built in thermal o/l, should i run voltage to a1 a2, if i did that the contactor would stay in, NOBODY V AN help, been on it a week, any help be grateful for
In USA our most recent National Electric Code says that for new households nearly all circuits must be Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter breakers, and they also include GFCI (RCD) functionality if I remember correctly.
continuing from the previous comment:
For the start charge (in the scheme you draw), you need a PTC resistor (called klixon or something) that keeps the winding excited just for the small time required by the motor to start running. If i'm wrong, please correct me.
I'm in DC and this video mean a lot to me to understand how start working and how to wire rotary compressor. Thanks for video!
Thank you, you cleared up a lot of confusion! 😃
ah alright, i guess i misunderstood what you said at 6:00
"start winding only wants enough charge to get the motor running", i interpreted it as "after an initial charge the cap will act like a switch and isolate the start winding" which of course, does not.
Thanks for the clarification.
Very good and educative
Very helpful thank you
I was told approximately 15 micro farads per horsepower..... Thats what I went by when I wired my 1.5 hp three phase motor for single phase....
Hi, I wanted to make this silent compressor so I got from my friend the ac compressor (from external unit) and I was wandering whether you would be able to help me with connection of my ac compressor ( ac was single phase) but there wasn't separate capacitor as I can see on some UA-cam videos, there was whole like main board from computer and there were few capacitors, any way on the compressor itself is a label which says 148VDC, at 120Hz, and I have no idea how to connect it to a power supply
Honestly your a legend
thanks Aussie50 for this video. it surely helps me out.
I think the phrase you were looking for is "phase shift". The capacitor causes a (~90degree) phase shift,which gets applied to the start winding.
I dont remember if there was a relationship between the ton rating of the unit verses the hp of the compressor or not....
A good way understand the cap start phase(alos 3phase) is to think of a string of blinking Christmas lights. If only 2 are alternating, one time it looks like its going one way and if you blink it might look like its going the opposite way. It you have a 3 bulb-pattern, the direction is clearly seen. The start phase cap is shifting that leg just enough to give a sense of direction.
Iam the same way I much. Rather 120 then 240. It's easier to wire up for me. An it's. Safer
Very helpful
Just heard about this channel but sorry to hear of the creators fait. He seems like a real dude
mine keeps blowing the barker it works because it did work in the hvac i got it from i have it wired right im 100 % sure but it keeps blowing the barker instantly when i power it on my theory is that the inrush current is too big because the compressor is huge and power full but i don't know if im right and if i am how do i fix it
Thanks for a simple to understand explanation of what goes where and why. I have a water tank pump that I just replaced the bearings on, now it won't start! I'll check out the start and run windings with my multimeter, just need to let that big fat capacitor discharge first! (Scared myself when I put a screwdriver across it the first time - power removed of course).
I have a 240 60hz compressor out of an AC unit along with the multi cap. I have tried to find your vid on how to wire a multi cap but have had no luck. Is it still available?
I don't know what plant your from, but down here on earth there is no neutral on 240, only two hots.
Most of the world uses single phase 240V, where the difference between line and neutral is nominally 240V. You are thinking of the American dual phase 240V plug, like a NEMA 10 device, where the only points that have a difference of 240V is between two phases and the difference between either phase and neutral is nominally 120V. As an aside, there is a standard NEMA 14 plug with two phases, a neutral, and a ground that is commonly used as a generator hook up.
More compressor vids yaayyy!, great course!
hi... can i install 2HP compressor for 3hp aircond? indoor unit.
too much rambling. just get on with video
Are you going to do some more work on the nagata gen ?
thank you very much
Thanks for this. A simple explanation of what the hell all those wires to, exactly what I needed.
thanks again old friend
+NOBOX7 Anytime mate ;)
Brilliant! Please come back to UA-cam. Hope you're well
awesome! explained well, safety info included. couldn't have done it better myself
wickedxe
life saver, been messing around all day
cheers mate
hi,, how to add oil on that thing,,
american here, wtf is an rcd?
show us your RCD Please Ed?
good point ! lol
thank you , i was on this situation , very helpfull
thanks alot bro..
Big techinic thank
Big techinic thank
Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you!
Good video.
Thanks broo
Praise the lord.Thanks a lot to you, god bless you
In the USA here we have L1 and L2 which are 2 branches of 110vac with Neutral as the common return. Our Neutral is at the same potential as the ground but the two should never be connected except at the junction box. This way if one of the hots(L1,L2) short to the casing, they short to ground. Some circuits don't include the neutral. Breakers or fusing should always go on the Hots(L1,L2) side.
Common to neutral?!!
Really?!!!
I think you must studied more