Great video man, I have a 2018 Hyundai Elantra sport along with a HKS BOV. I have a adapter that replaces the diverter valve and the BOV sits where the diverter sat. I just don’t know if I need to bypass the solenoid or connect to it still. Also have no clue where the vacuum lines should be going. Mechanics around my are have zero idea how to connect a BOV or how to rout the vacuum line. Any tips ? Thanks
The "stu-tu-tu-tu" flutter sound is actually caused by a lack of a BOV of any kind. It's caused by the throttle closing, and the pressurized air having no path to escape. So the air is escaping out of the intake, through the turbo the wrong way. And that causes the fluttering sound. You hear a "PSHHH" from a venting BOV, which vents the pressurized air out of the intake, so it doesn't wear out the turbo parts as it would normally escape out the wrong way through the turbo, putting high stress on the parts. And most stock turbo cars have a reciprocating BOV. This doesn't vent the air, instead it circulates it back in front of the turbo. The benefit of this system, is that you don't lose as much boost. These ones make only a tiny humming sound that's barely audible. Although a pro tip, is that you could replace often plastic stock intake tubing, with metallic (aluminum) tubing for like 300€, and the sound of the BOV circulating air will be MUCH more noticeable. Well, also if your car has a MAF sensor (mass airflow sensor), a venting BOV will cause issues with the engine. The sensor calculates air taken in by the intake, and calculates relative fuel amounts for combustion. These calculations will be WAY off, if you vent all the air as you lift off the throttle. The engine will run rich, run bad, may cause a knock, a check engine light, and might even begin to stall every time you lift off the throttle. A venting BOV is just fine and healthy if your car is tuned for it. Or if it is some kind of a model that has no MAF in the intake. Then you can vent all the air you want for loud hissing sounds. But for the love of god don't buy an Evo or WRX and just replace the perfectly fine silent stock BOV with a loud venting one. You will fuck up the tune. You will fuck up the engine. You will even lose power. All just to arguably make it sound a bit cooler.
That blows balls, I was so ready to get an HKS blowoff valve for my GTI that I'm going to stage 2 tune. But I got the mass airflow sensor and it's even being buggy rn. Guess I'll have to settle for just straight pipe for my sound
Ex-turbo test tech here - Compressor surge on closed plate is BAD. Will prematurely wear bearing(s) and shaft. If they get too worn your compressor will begin to contact the housing. TLDR: you will be buying another turbo. Good video, love the content, keep it up, guys!
@@drzflyest4 usually not a big enough wastegate or BOV or both. I mean, it might give you a bit more power off the jump. but. it'll wear the bearing faster. As long as compressor isnt hitting the housing, you can just keep replacing bearings. but thats kind of annoying, in my opinion.
@@jumpmusic101 A BOV is a great idea if you're gonna turbocharge your vehicle. It relieves pressure in the system. But if you want that turbo flutter noise lol.
As someone new to car modding, I love that I discovered this channel!!! Easy explanations, nice info, and nice vid flow. Helps that I also know where to buy from after I watch the vid!
The "stustustu" sound is the turbo still spinning forward and the blades chopping the compressed air. It's going to take a lot more than that to blow your turbo, and spin it backwards (turbos spin at insanely high rpm), it will put more wear on the bearing and such but isn't going to massively impact longevity. Compressor surge that is going to hurt your car badly is when your on boost and it starts doing the flutter sound, since your boosting more than the capabilities of the engine, it literally can't take the air being forced into the engine so the turbo starts surging.
Years ago I had a roommate with an EJ20K swapped '00 2 5RS and he loved the turbo flutter sounds. I tried telling him that's air going the wrong direction through the intake pipe when boost is released but he didn't care. Then yesterday I see a video that was uploaded the same day, some guy with a Civic running ebay turbo parts and getting a dyno session done. All flutter lol. Then they start testing launch control settings and by the end of the video he'd busted a wastegate and cracked the manifold lol
lol I upgraded my stock recirculating bov to a hks super ssq4 which is bent to atmosphere like people want. Also the loudness is more directly associated with the amount of boost your pushing. You can here it easily even when recirculating with a high boost pressure but it will be a bit louder if you chose to vent to atmosphere. Hks is the best in my opinion and don’t buy a knock off chances are you won’t hold boost correctly and your tune day will be a waste
Does this bov give you the option to fully re circulate? I have a 98 r34 and and sick of the quiet stock turbo noises only running like 10 psi till some upgrades are done. I wanted to get this exact bov but read on stock builds with no tune it can cause stalling/ choking issues have you experienced this at all with this bov? Or are you already tuned and this is just a non issue?
I am 46 not new to vehicle performance, just curious about an 04 passat 1.8t. Got it at auction.. I did some cleaning and additives, got it running reliable. I want to play withthe stock bov just to hear it, before I decide to move foward with anything, your input is much appreciated
I had a Chinese Tial knock-off BOV from Driftmotion. The nut holding the valve to the shaft fell off. It discharged into the intercooler plumbing and became logged in my #6 intake manifold runner. That could have ended very badly.
Blow off valves do three things. They don't kinda save your turbo they do. First they save the bearings from the surge spinning the turbo backwards almost instantly. Second they keep the compressor wheel spinning fast to increase transitional response on boost/off boost/ back on to boost as fast as possible. Third they sound pretty sweet but that's opinion.
turbo flutter/surge doesnt spin the turbo backwards, it’s impossible, the turbine in boost is spinning at 10s of thousands of rpm, it is impossible to instantly just jump backwards, its just air getting pushed back through the turbine bits at a time, this is a huge misconception in the car community, not trying to argue or anything but just letting you know🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@Evanmaier well that's not true at all. It literally spins it backwards and it goes forward and backwards multiple times. Call and ask any turbo manufacturer.
@@SG-Cichlids Not sure if trolling or just stupid, go to the High Performance Academy and watch the video "Do You Need a Blow Off Valve?", not only does it not even get close to stopping but it doesn't slow the turbine down anymore then it does running a blow off valve.
Not sure anyone will get back to me but really looking for someone to point me in right directions for upgrades not just from experience but from knowledge as well 🙏🏽
I have a mercedes c250 2012 im looking into installing a blow off valve(GFB brand idk if u heard of those) what would be your recommendation do it or nah? And also would a pedal commander combo with the blow off valve or make it a nightmare??
I have a vw golf mk5 tsi 1400 cc with stock 140 hp and i recently added on my stock valve the adapter so it can make this sound . So my question is this will i have any problems in the future ? I heard that they lose.pressure
@1:30 i just got my first turbo engine (ka24det) in a nissan 720 1984 and i love doing just what you said.... Build boost and blow off some pressure tsu tsu tsuuuu tsuuuuuu 😂 ....never gets old......😅
Hey guys, I have a Nissan Juke Nismo RS 2016 (MR16DDT engine) my question is how do you combat the running rich if you fit a BOV. I want the whoosh (don’t we all) but I don’t want to hurt the engine. What do you recommend?
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin. -Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve. -Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM. -Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below). Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge). My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold. Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive): -Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100) -Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both) -Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total) I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
he explains it in the video. If you VTA on a MAF that has allready counted that air and delivered x amount of fuel . it will run rich af because the air that was supposed to be there just got yeeted to the atmosphere in stead of staying in the system to mix with fuel.. You can VTA all day on speed density bc the metering of air isn't done on the turbo intake side. it's based on set VE tables and sensor outputs post turbo Likewise you can use a blow thru maf like a Maftranslator and VTA BC THE AIR IS METERED after the BOV's position in the charge pipe.
Awesome video I've been looking to get a BOV on my mercedes c250 and this is definitely helpful. I am currently between a GFB BOV at around $200 and a modalworks BOV which comes in a set with extra wiring, small pipe and the BOV self is bigger it almost looks like a catchcan. Any suggestions?
Hey! You will have to contact your dealer to see if this is something that voids the warranty. In most cases does not but every warranty is different. Is it worth it is a hard question to answer. If you're going for a very modified car then yes, if you plan to keep it mostly stock then go with a recirculating bov!
I have a Mercedes a35 but my blow off valve is a quart shaped with 4 bolts how can i add and adapter i need to keep the stock one because it has a sensor who can help me out
@maperformance well I know it's supposed to, I got the injen short ram, and when I let off acceleration there's no induction sound, just kind-of when I'm driving .
I have a Ford Focus St mk2 06 and I would like the stututu but I’m not sure how to get it. I’ve heard others have this so i know it’s possible. It’s completely stock in the engine bay and the only thing I’ve done is change the diverter valve so I can hear the stutu but it’s super super quiet. Woukd changing the air intake to a after market one such as a cone help bring out the loudness or what’s best to do? Thanks
one way is just a full aftermarket cold air intake, thats what i would go with because then the noice travels through it easier and bounces throught it better
@@maperformance thanks for the reply won’t be doing that then what would you suggest so I can make it sound nice and not like a garbage can or leaf blower
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin. -Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve. -Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM. -Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below). Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge). My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold. Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive): -Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100) -Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both) -Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total) I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
I've got a 2018 civic Si I put a HKS ssqv on, at times I would notice a sudden drop in rpms and a engine brake like effect after shifting with rev hang off ( no it's not the throttle padding ) while letting the clutch out into the new gear and it does it less with rev hang on, it's hard to explain what it was I experienced but I recently got a full recirculation BPV and I'm running that now and overall I would say the car feels alot " healthier " when shifting and going fast before with the hks it just didn't feel right driving
Shouldn't really be running a blow-off valve for a prolonged period without the proper tuning do to the fact that the MAF sensor is going to freak out when it doesn't see the air pressure it expects.
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin. -Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve. -Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM. -Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below). Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge). My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold. Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive): -Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100) -Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both) -Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total) I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
I actually had a blow off valve that broke and I didn’t know the air goes back inside the turbo and it could damage, also i got a new bov and that is continuously open, i asked the mechanic and they didn’t know sh!t😞 guess i need i knew one, can I install the stock one back again???
What specific blow off valve can you get for a vxr corsa 1.6 Turbo 07 please? I've been interested in the for months but didn't get because I was told negative energy.
Yeah so my only question at that point is why is it that every single high horsepower fast car with a turbo makes the turbo flutter noise surely if it was bad for the car there wouldn’t be so many people running insanely high horsepower cars that don’t have a blow off valve
What other car parts would you like us to explain in more detail? Let us know down below!
Great video man, I have a 2018 Hyundai Elantra sport along with a HKS BOV. I have a adapter that replaces the diverter valve and the BOV sits where the diverter sat. I just don’t know if I need to bypass the solenoid or connect to it still. Also have no clue where the vacuum lines should be going. Mechanics around my are have zero idea how to connect a BOV or how to rout the vacuum line. Any tips ? Thanks
Hey Sir, what u thnk about 2021 CTR getting a hks bov , Would it be safe and reliable, for long period of time? Thank you.
Could you please advise on what blow off valve will fit my car I wrote a comment below
Electronic boost controllers. I know this is old...
The "stu-tu-tu-tu" flutter sound is actually caused by a lack of a BOV of any kind. It's caused by the throttle closing, and the pressurized air having no path to escape. So the air is escaping out of the intake, through the turbo the wrong way. And that causes the fluttering sound.
You hear a "PSHHH" from a venting BOV, which vents the pressurized air out of the intake, so it doesn't wear out the turbo parts as it would normally escape out the wrong way through the turbo, putting high stress on the parts.
And most stock turbo cars have a reciprocating BOV. This doesn't vent the air, instead it circulates it back in front of the turbo. The benefit of this system, is that you don't lose as much boost. These ones make only a tiny humming sound that's barely audible. Although a pro tip, is that you could replace often plastic stock intake tubing, with metallic (aluminum) tubing for like 300€, and the sound of the BOV circulating air will be MUCH more noticeable.
Well, also if your car has a MAF sensor (mass airflow sensor), a venting BOV will cause issues with the engine. The sensor calculates air taken in by the intake, and calculates relative fuel amounts for combustion. These calculations will be WAY off, if you vent all the air as you lift off the throttle. The engine will run rich, run bad, may cause a knock, a check engine light, and might even begin to stall every time you lift off the throttle.
A venting BOV is just fine and healthy if your car is tuned for it. Or if it is some kind of a model that has no MAF in the intake. Then you can vent all the air you want for loud hissing sounds. But for the love of god don't buy an Evo or WRX and just replace the perfectly fine silent stock BOV with a loud venting one. You will fuck up the tune. You will fuck up the engine. You will even lose power. All just to arguably make it sound a bit cooler.
great explanation dawg. much love
That blows balls, I was so ready to get an HKS blowoff valve for my GTI that I'm going to stage 2 tune. But I got the mass airflow sensor and it's even being buggy rn. Guess I'll have to settle for just straight pipe for my sound
Nice 💯
@samisuhonen9815 so find a way to bypass the maf if you want to upgrade the bov, correct?
May I ask, if we go with a standalone ECU with Speed Density, a tune can be made to accept a venting BOV?
Ex-turbo test tech here - Compressor surge on closed plate is BAD. Will prematurely wear bearing(s) and shaft. If they get too worn your compressor will begin to contact the housing. TLDR: you will be buying another turbo.
Good video, love the content, keep it up, guys!
Thanks for the info!
Why do some diesel motors operate like this?
@@drzflyest4 usually not a big enough wastegate or BOV or both. I mean, it might give you a bit more power off the jump. but. it'll wear the bearing faster. As long as compressor isnt hitting the housing, you can just keep replacing bearings. but thats kind of annoying, in my opinion.
So to be clear, a blow off valve is not a good idea? Beginner here lol
@@jumpmusic101 A BOV is a great idea if you're gonna turbocharge your vehicle. It relieves pressure in the system.
But if you want that turbo flutter noise lol.
As someone new to car modding, I love that I discovered this channel!!! Easy explanations, nice info, and nice vid flow. Helps that I also know where to buy from after I watch the vid!
This is what we love to hear!! Thank you for your support 🙏
Thank you for the kind words! We do our best to bring this kind of content to the community!
And they’re supported by Sezzle!
I bet you have no friends 😂
@@brokenglassandorangejuice4210 I guarantee you have no bitches
The "stustustu" sound is the turbo still spinning forward and the blades chopping the compressed air. It's going to take a lot more than that to blow your turbo, and spin it backwards (turbos spin at insanely high rpm), it will put more wear on the bearing and such but isn't going to massively impact longevity. Compressor surge that is going to hurt your car badly is when your on boost and it starts doing the flutter sound, since your boosting more than the capabilities of the engine, it literally can't take the air being forced into the engine so the turbo starts surging.
Yep…hello limp mode and CEL P0049. I’m still trying to remedy this problem that pops up on occasion.
I love the HKS sound. Always have always will
Years ago I had a roommate with an EJ20K swapped '00 2 5RS and he loved the turbo flutter sounds. I tried telling him that's air going the wrong direction through the intake pipe when boost is released but he didn't care. Then yesterday I see a video that was uploaded the same day, some guy with a Civic running ebay turbo parts and getting a dyno session done. All flutter lol. Then they start testing launch control settings and by the end of the video he'd busted a wastegate and cracked the manifold lol
lol I upgraded my stock recirculating bov to a hks super ssq4 which is bent to atmosphere like people want. Also the loudness is more directly associated with the amount of boost your pushing. You can here it easily even when recirculating with a high boost pressure but it will be a bit louder if you chose to vent to atmosphere. Hks is the best in my opinion and don’t buy a knock off chances are you won’t hold boost correctly and your tune day will be a waste
Does this bov give you the option to fully re circulate? I have a 98 r34 and and sick of the quiet stock turbo noises only running like 10 psi till some upgrades are done. I wanted to get this exact bov but read on stock builds with no tune it can cause stalling/ choking issues have you experienced this at all with this bov? Or are you already tuned and this is just a non issue?
I am 46 not new to vehicle performance, just curious about an 04 passat 1.8t. Got it at auction.. I did some cleaning and additives, got it running reliable. I want to play withthe stock bov just to hear it, before I decide to move foward with anything, your input is much appreciated
a great video is a detail understanding why the japanese usually dnt run bov, and how they route everything up.
I had a Chinese Tial knock-off BOV from Driftmotion. The nut holding the valve to the shaft fell off. It discharged into the intercooler plumbing and became logged in my #6 intake manifold runner. That could have ended very badly.
Blow off valves do three things. They don't kinda save your turbo they do. First they save the bearings from the surge spinning the turbo backwards almost instantly. Second they keep the compressor wheel spinning fast to increase transitional response on boost/off boost/ back on to boost as fast as possible. Third they sound pretty sweet but that's opinion.
turbo flutter/surge doesnt spin the turbo backwards, it’s impossible, the turbine in boost is spinning at 10s of thousands of rpm, it is impossible to instantly just jump backwards, its just air getting pushed back through the turbine bits at a time, this is a huge misconception in the car community, not trying to argue or anything but just letting you know🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@Evanmaier well that's not true at all. It literally spins it backwards and it goes forward and backwards multiple times. Call and ask any turbo manufacturer.
@Foghorn Leghorn this guy is hilarious
@@SG-Cichlids Not sure if trolling or just stupid, go to the High Performance Academy and watch the video "Do You Need a Blow Off Valve?", not only does it not even get close to stopping but it doesn't slow the turbine down anymore then it does running a blow off valve.
And that fast spinning compressor wheel made me go into “limp mode” triggering a P0049 CEL! 😣
Great video! Been thinking of buying a BoV for my Q50. Just trying to see the good and the bad about getting one. Thanks for the info
Glad we could help! Call us if you have any more questions and we will get you right!
What would the 2.4t Subaru have? 2023 outback. (Don’t laugh 😂)
I got a 2015 Subaru Impreza Wrx and will like to install a BOV so I can hear the sound. Not sure witch one or what brand to buy.🤷
Hks sounds amazing 👍
@@eze8024. I was told that on my Wrx with a FA20 Engine I need to install a 50/50 circulation BOV.
@@jessebracero6817 without tune is best to use 50/50. i believe the HKS SSQV has attachments for recirc, but it’s pricey.
Didn't realize that you Said 2015 , thought you Said 2005, I swear to God The WRX gets uglier every Year
I spent most of the video staring at the Supra next to him, I can’t wait to get kw coil overs on mine 😭🔥👌🏻
Hi does anyone know what BOV that is on the rally car at 0:05 of the video? I’ve been trying to find that BOV sound for the longest!
Can you guys do a “speedy density” explained? I’m lost on those whole evo 8 intake thing
We'll put it on the video idea list!
Give us a call at 651-348-8811 and we will do our best to explain!
I have a mk4 gti with the blow off valve. But I have lack of power and a but less of fuel consumption? Could this be the Forged blow of valve?
Not sure anyone will get back to me but really looking for someone to point me in right directions for upgrades not just from experience but from knowledge as well 🙏🏽
Give us a call! 1-888-627-3736 and we can get an expert on the phone for you!
Great video a friend of mine sent it to me when he recognized my car as the cover photo .
Very cool!
Hello there, I have a Jetta with little engine 1.4 w/ turbo. What brand of turbosmart valve do I need to help this engine…???
I have a chinese copy of turbo smart dual port for 3 years in my car and works nice .
Try to find one that dumps air back into the turbos.
I have a 2j aristo.
Any recommendations?
BPV?
Forge bpv is pretty okay
I have a mercedes c250 2012 im looking into installing a blow off valve(GFB brand idk if u heard of those) what would be your recommendation do it or nah? And also would a pedal commander combo with the blow off valve or make it a nightmare??
I think i have the same valve as 3:10 but i want to change and i dont found for my vehicle. Clio 5 TCE 1.3
I have a vw golf mk5 tsi 1400 cc with stock 140 hp and i recently added on my stock valve the adapter so it can make this sound . So my question is this will i have any problems in the future ? I heard that they lose.pressure
What BOV should i get for my Q60 red sport? Or do i stay stock ?
which one you prefer for subaru wrx sti 2018 ?
Is VTA safe to go S3 8p stage 2+? I buy it week ago and its not delivered yet. 🤓
@1:30 i just got my first turbo engine (ka24det) in a nissan 720 1984 and i love doing just what you said.... Build boost and blow off some pressure tsu tsu tsuuuu tsuuuuuu 😂 ....never gets old......😅
Which blow of valve can i get for my 2013 subaru impreza wrx? Standard engine and have no mods done to it......?
Could you do a video installation with HKS charge pipe w/sqv BOV with the wiring on a mkv
I want to put a BOV in my Evo. What would be the best one for me?
Do these rules also aply if you buy a blow off valve kit thats specificlly built for your engine and your only on stage 1?
Hey guys, I have a Nissan Juke Nismo RS 2016 (MR16DDT engine) my question is how do you combat the running rich if you fit a BOV. I want the whoosh (don’t we all) but I don’t want to hurt the engine.
What do you recommend?
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin.
-Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve.
-Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM.
-Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below).
Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge).
My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold.
Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive):
-Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100)
-Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both)
-Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total)
I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
i have a mazda 6 2012 model what kind of blow off valve it will fits
What would be the best blow off valve for my 2002 Audi a4 Quattro
Nobody believes me when I tell them the Stututu is their BOV improperly opening 🥴
Or lack there-of.
I believe sequential BOV also make that noise and is not because of an improper tune
@@nasa444444 Flutter/surge and a sequential BOV do not sound the same.
They're telling you you're wrong because you are.
It’s compressed surge
Now explain why VTA with MAF is a bad idea vs using speed density calculations instead of the MAF.
ecoboost mustangs are MAP so a VTA BOV is fine right?
he explains it in the video. If you VTA on a MAF that has allready counted that air and delivered x amount of fuel . it will run rich af because the air that was supposed to be there just got yeeted to the atmosphere in stead of staying in the system to mix with fuel..
You can VTA all day on speed density bc the metering of air isn't done on the turbo intake side. it's based on set VE tables and sensor outputs post turbo
Likewise you can use a blow thru maf like a Maftranslator and VTA BC THE AIR IS METERED after the BOV's position in the charge pipe.
@@dnalor8753 if you're MAP your're good to plug and play
Awesome video I've been looking to get a BOV on my mercedes c250 and this is definitely helpful. I am currently between a GFB BOV at around $200 and a modalworks BOV which comes in a set with extra wiring, small pipe and the BOV self is bigger it almost looks like a catchcan. Any suggestions?
I'm running a GFB BOV and it sounds amazing, very loud, and if you want louder they sell a bigger trumpet to add.
I’m trynna buy one for my Mercedes Benz e class 300 does it viod the warranty ? And is it worth buying it for it
Hey! You will have to contact your dealer to see if this is something that voids the warranty. In most cases does not but every warranty is different. Is it worth it is a hard question to answer. If you're going for a very modified car then yes, if you plan to keep it mostly stock then go with a recirculating bov!
Is there a blow off valve available in crv gen 4?
Subaru Forester SF5 blowout valve is it advisable to have one
I have a Mercedes a35 but my blow off valve is a quart shaped with 4 bolts how can i add and adapter i need to keep the stock one because it has a sensor who can help me out
Looking to boost, but I like the whoosh wayyyy better then stustustu. Does it come down to brand of bov or is it just different engines?
That noise would come from an intake!
@maperformance well I know it's supposed to, I got the injen short ram, and when I let off acceleration there's no induction sound, just kind-of when I'm driving .
what should I get for my messages E class 2008 e280
I have a Ford Focus St mk2 06 and I would like the stututu but I’m not sure how to get it. I’ve heard others have this so i know it’s possible. It’s completely stock in the engine bay and the only thing I’ve done is change the diverter valve so I can hear the stutu but it’s super super quiet. Woukd changing the air intake to a after market one such as a cone help bring out the loudness or what’s best to do? Thanks
Give us a call at 651-348-8811 and we can give you some options!
one way is just a full aftermarket cold air intake, thats what i would go with because then the noice travels through it easier and bounces throught it better
@@Evanmaier any after market ones you would recommend?
To make your turbo louder you need less restrictive exhaust, less restrictive air intake, and lastly, a bigger turbo if it’s still quiet.
Would you suggest i put blow off valve turbo on my car 2020 Honda civic coupe
No, those cars do not react well to any bov or bpv. Nor do you need it unless you're making big power.
@@maperformance thanks for the reply won’t be doing that then what would you suggest so I can make it sound nice and not like a garbage can or leaf blower
I have a 2022 Hyundai elantra N. Any ideas 💡, which one might be right, for my car? 🤔
Give us a call at 1-888-627-3736 or send us an email at sales@maperformance.com and we can give you some options!
GFB makes a really good BOV for the Elantra N. Look at N75 Motorsports.
I got a stock car but like the sound what do i need 2018 q50
Why would a blow off valve be connected to the turbo on the exhaust side and having exhaust gates run through it?
youre thinking of an external wastegate all it does is limit the turbo exhaust pressure to control the amount of boost youre making.
Tldr: if you don't understand why your car makes the "stutututu," don't do it 🤣
What I’m trying to do is have it just make a simple little “pffft” when I let off the gas, what is recommended for this noise
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin.
-Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve.
-Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM.
-Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below).
Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge).
My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold.
Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive):
-Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100)
-Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both)
-Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total)
I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
Is there a blowoff valve available for the supra? I see that you have one in the background. I own one too!
How can I make my wrx 2020 make the stututu sound?
I have a stock car looking forward getting a Blow off
Does it work on mustang NA ? Without turbo
No, you need a turbo for a BOV.
Did no one else catch that he said SRT Ford Neon 0:58
But the orange SRT4 wasn't even mine😭 It was the camera car lol
💀
What type of BOV should I get for a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T?
I went with a DVX by Go Fast Bits. I havent put it in yet but I was wondering the same thing lmao
Can i fit one to amg a class a200d ?
What’s your opinion on putting one on a 2020 civic si
I have an HKS SQV4 mounted to the adapter and just waiting... I need to know about this too.
I have one on my Elantra N-Line, which is equivalent to an Si, and it works/sounds amazing.
I've got a 2018 civic Si I put a HKS ssqv on, at times I would notice a sudden drop in rpms and a engine brake like effect after shifting with rev hang off ( no it's not the throttle padding ) while letting the clutch out into the new gear and it does it less with rev hang on, it's hard to explain what it was I experienced but I recently got a full recirculation BPV and I'm running that now and overall I would say the car feels alot " healthier " when shifting and going fast before with the hks it just didn't feel right driving
Shouldn't really be running a blow-off valve for a prolonged period without the proper tuning do to the fact that the MAF sensor is going to freak out when it doesn't see the air pressure it expects.
@Jason Guzman yeah, I've had it blocked off and put on a new full recirculating bpv and running that for now
Very Nice Explanation 👍. I am considering Forge Motorsports Blow Off Valve for my Skoda Octavia MK3 1.8 TSI. How's Forge Motorsports as a Brand?
anything safe for 2020 civic hatchback CVT?
id want the car to stay reliable and want to keep for a very long time.
just want more sound :)
thanks
-Stock Diverter/Recirculation Valve (Standard on most new turbo cars) = "Pwah" sound which is nearly imperceptible over engine noise and MIGHT be heard in cabin.
-Upgraded Diverter/Recirculation Valve = "Psht" noise and can be heard more than stock, both inside and outside the car, but not as much as much as an atmospheric blow-off valve.
-Blow-off valve = "Psst" noise and can definitely be heard outside of the car and, if you are pushing enough boost, there can even be a nice whistle tone at higher RPM.
-Block-off/Delete Plate = "Stututu" noise and is very much noticeable, but you can run much richer and can run into something commonly known as compressor surge (read below).
Best odds: Get a atmospheric blow-off valve adapter plate for your stock diverter valve (most cars turbo'd from factory have an option to purchase aftermarket adapters similar to this, usually around US$100). This will increase the noise produced from the turbo without running TOO rich (you will likely still run the tiniest bit richer than stock) or having to tune. I would not recommend block-off/delete plates, not because of compressor surge, but running too rich due to your car expecting air to recirculate through from the "front" of the turbo, which can cause some problems, such as spark plug and intake/exhaust valve pitting/fouling (simply put, damage), clogged fuel injectors, and rougher idle (which will cause problems faster than compressor surge).
My OPINION on compressor surge (with operational knowledge of turbines/compressors within my occupation, I AM NOT AN EXPERT): Compressor Surge CAN be bad, but most smaller turbines engineered today have some sort of 'appreciable compressor surge factor' (per se) built into the engineering and production of the turbocharger itself. If you're running something older with a turbine made of ceramic or a weaker housing, it can be cause for early turbo failure, but that is only cause for concern if an ungodly amount of boost is being sent back into the turbine or running that way for an unreasonable amount of time. You're probably more likely (or just as likely) to MAYBE have your MAF or MAP sensor blowout of the intake, or, if running an intake manifold made of weaker material (such as plastic), you MIGHT crack the intake manifold due too much pressure beyond the throttle plate, but, again, highly, highly unlikely for both your sensors or manifold.
Additionally, if you would like to hear your stock turbo system more than stock (in order from least expensive to most expensive):
-Most cars turbo'd from factory come with a turbo muffler. You can get a turbo muffler delete for this which will add more of that turbo whine to your car's noise. (~US$100)
-Look into an upgraded intake system and an upgraded turbo inlet pipe. This will allow the sound of the turbo to reverberate causing it to be "louder". (~US$500 for both)
-Upgrading your downpipe (with a tune, chiptunes are sold for most cars now) and the rest of your exhaust system can cause your turbo to spool faster. (Varies, but usually ~US$2000 total)
I hope you enjoyed reading this and hope you learned something and I wish you well with your endeavors within your new found hobby!
SRT4 FTW!! 👌
For rexy turbo smart bov, then gfb, then greddy
I actually had a blow off valve that broke and I didn’t know the air goes back inside the turbo and it could damage, also i got a new bov and that is continuously open, i asked the mechanic and they didn’t know sh!t😞 guess i need i knew one, can I install the stock one back again???
How can we mount one on a 1.9tdi?
so bov works on both auto and manual?
It works great on my Elantra with DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission)
Actual start of how they work 1:50.
What blow off valve did the neon have?
He said at the end that it was a HKS, most likely the SSQV
What specific blow off valve can you get for a vxr corsa 1.6 Turbo 07 please? I've been interested in the for months but didn't get because I was told negative energy.
I think Vauxhall uses MAF you need more map :)
What about for a kia k5 gt line?
What blow off is on srt4
Don’t me mind me just here for that sounds 😎
I just want to know how to convert my car from an air bypass valve to blow off valve.
Do more detail on this subject please!
How do you do that
Do a video bpv. Plz
Yeah so my only question at that point is why is it that every single high horsepower fast car with a turbo makes the turbo flutter noise surely if it was bad for the car there wouldn’t be so many people running insanely high horsepower cars that don’t have a blow off valve
Terrorizing Clairemont on a summer evening.. the Neon clip pines of nostalgia!
Lot of cars even from 1990 has blow off valve. But they are silent
That orange supra thooooo
Sick tractor pull clip lol
I’ve owned several SRT4s and better since. The 4’s sound was like a baby being denied a nipple and a fat guy after a 5k marathon.
Anyone running a bov in a mk7 gti? If so, any problems??
Let me know as well, i installed a GFB DV+ yesterday 😀
@@MoistCrack any problems?
@@ohyeahyeah6899 Nope no issues at all with the diverter valve.
Never threw a rod in my Ecotec...js...🏁
I actually dont like it, I want to take it off my genesis, I was wondering how can I properly do it?
I'd like to have one but my car is a turbo diesel
@@tommm.1538 diesels run off of strictly air compression, a BOV on a diesel will ruin the engine they're not designed to have a BOV at all
I dont get it person A says the "stututu" comes from the air going back into the turbo and person B says the "stututu" is caused by the BOV
Did he said (Ford) neon??
Tempting 🤔💸
WHOOSH
@@maperformance With intakes, the stinger stock’s pretty loud, but if yall send me one I’ll happily review it haha.
in my experience a bov is a bov even if its a cheap ebay replica, just change ouut the bov spring to match your boost application, done
nah dawg, cheap bovs can fall apart and things can get sucked into the engine
this brother looks baked as, get a close up on his eyes. But presents really well if he is.
2004 infiniti i35 and q45
Would be cool if I had a turbo
Lota of factory cars give you the stu tu tu sound, its not bad.
😂 little did daddy know that neon would take a charger or a Cuda w.e. you wanna throw at it.
Running a Miata without blowoffvlave cause yolo!!