How to Strengthen Your Nissan RB Block and Help Stop Cracking
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- Опубліковано 8 гру 2018
- Purchase here: gtrhub.bigcartel.com/product/...
In previous videos we looked at the strenghts and weaknesses in the RB block. In this episode we talk to Platinum Racing Products about how to strengthen them and stop twisting to try and eliminate the common cracking problem in the RB block. - Авто та транспорт
Good to see some new products for the RB. Keeping the market growing!!
Isn't it great. Long live the RB's
Have this guy more often, he’s great
He sure is!
Thank you so much
@@hermanurriola138 I don't have any plans to run or interest in RB's for that matter, but the knowledge and presentation keeps me glued to the screen. Great job!
@Tex 13 There's a simple reason I am not into RBs - financial. The availability and cost of parts in the states is still pretty limited. When you factor in that I've been around 2Js since the mid-90s and hoarded a ton of parts over the years.. I can go to almost any local Toyota dealer and get a part the same day. Or a local autoshop that will have the interchangeable parts with GE, which are dime a dozen. Plus at the end of the day, I would just have to put that much more *additional* money into an RB to make over 1000whp.
This channel and high performance academy plus haltech are 3 of the best car channels on youtube, the aussies are killing it fairplay to them!!!! Keep up the good work 😊😊😊
What about MCM?
Andrew use to love that channel but gone downhill abit for me lately 😞
@@beany1987 I kinda know what you mean. I preferred when they worked on their local mum's drive or the early days of working in a garage. Now they just have too much funds, unlimited haltec ECUs and it's not stuff the average Jo could do.
Andrew ye thats why i like boostedboizs aswell, simple cars and mods that can be done with ebay parts on a budget most of the time aswell. Plus they down to earth regular guys who love street and track racing
That’s because they get the good engines cheap AF over there. No less props to them tho.
Andrew, I have been watching your videos for a few years now, how you don’t have more subscribers blows my mind, you should have 10 times as many subscribers! Your channel is among one of the best on UA-cam, super informative, great content and always factual. Thank you for the great videos and keep it up, and I’ll keep watching!
Thanks mate. We're pushing hard to get more at the moment. The more we have, the more content we produce. We're still well in the negative dollars for our UA-cam channel vs our time for our production company.
@@MotiveVideo I'm positive it will start turning around for you! Any chance of looking at the n54 and stacking it up against the RB and 2J? I have a FBO n54 with Rob beck turbos, would be interesting to see the n54 block against the jdm motors as I'm sceptical to push any more power through my n54.
Herman on the boys at PRP nailed this one perfectly. I will need to order one of these to keep my RB safe. Great content as always Andrew.🔥
Billet main caps / girdle: only use when you want to spend stupid amount of money. Absolutely love the honest nerdy engineering details in these PRP videos: please keep them coming, very well appreciated!
This content is fantastic. Good data for anybody doing their homework before a big power build.
This is absolutely awesome content. No bullshit just cold hard facts with results and experience to back up every snippet of information. Keep it going guys. Love every second of these vids
All your rb videos are helpful understanding the ins and outs. Thanks motive been watch since the DVD times
Great effort in this informative series MotiveDVD. Getting this kind of engineering insight for the regular Joe is usually well difficult to achieve. Look forward to learning more
Really good info!! The block testing vid was awesome as well. 🔥🔥🔥
Motive Video. I just came across your channel as I was wondering what's better a rb25 or rb26 and now five hours has gone by lol. Such an informative channel. I LOVE IT. From Toronto Canada Justin
Installed one on my RB29 Build. Fantastic Product
How's your engine doing since you installed it!?
The last couple of shows about engines have been great. Good change up ,from the racing shows that were great.
I have zero interest in RB's, but this content is so interesting I can help but watch.
Zero interest in rbs but watches a 98% rb based channel 🤦♂️
@@clutchkickpj693 yep, hooked me with the world time attack series, and now I'm even watching stuff I don't care about, learning lots.
I'm not a particular fan of rb's either but, knowing your enemies weaknesses is the key to winning lol. I do actually like the r32 and 33 though so knowing how much power I can run without the brace is good knowledge and knowing it won't crack if I delete the front drive shafts is good as I don't care for 4x4 or rear plus front on power.
But damn that's a lot of work just to stop it cracking.
Motive keeps me coming back for more videos and makes me want a GTR
Nice video, just recently picked up a PREC for my 26 block and it's a nice looking piece of kit!
awesome video! I had no idea about the bracing plate like that! Thanks for sharing info
Great content!!! Amazing videos and informative information .
Thank you motive for all the endepth technical videos!
Informative video. So. Its the front diff that is responsible for block cracking. I can certianly see that happening with a lot of power and slick tyres at all four wheels in a GTR.
I like this channel because it's very informative and has sick cars "mainly rb powered" but I've grown very tired of all the annoying jz fanboys who I guarantee 98% don't own one but are running thier mouth comparing which is better. *WHO CARES* there's always going to be a better engine that can make more hp. Show me a 11,000hp top fuel 2jz I'll wait...these vids are meant to inform and enlighten the rb enthusiast but instead get a bunch of grown men arguing like little school girls about which is better.I own a rb25,rb26 *AND* a 2jz and you don't see me on here bickering. Stop being so damn negative and know that not everyone in this world cares about big hp nor can a lot of people afford it. Everyone has thier own preference for engines and cars so just leave it at that and respect the builds ffs!
it's bc straya mate
Yeah well said mate. There are plenty of good engines out there. And there are pros and cons to all, but this vid is about RB's and would also hope that people could stay on topic and learn more about the RB and 6 cylinder platforms.
One of the biggest fanboy arguments I see is the "why would you LS swap a Skyline"? (I owned a 500kw circuit 34GTR with a 2.8L HKS donk, hence my thought process).
I mean it is not everyone's preference and it probably doesn't affect drag racing all that much, but and LS swap into a circuit cars makes a hell of a lot of sense.
270kgs RB vs 183kgs LS3, a shorter engine in length and height (reducing polar moment of inertia), the LS has virtually no lag, making it easier to drive out of corners with a linear throttle feel and with the ability achieve the same level of HP, why wouldn't you want an LS3 in a Skyline or GTR for circuit work.....lol. ( I wanted to do the swap, but funds didn't allow at the time sadly). Boy did I get a lot of flack for even thinking of it........lol.
Anyway, this is not meant to start any arguments, it is just to point out some very important engineering points in terms of what engine to begin with in a certain motorsport discipline.
I mean I would prefer not to hear a V8 in Skyline or a GTR, but on paper, it is such a logical choice.
I see so much "hate" against all sorts of cars and engines in the car world and most of it is Fanboy BS through and through rather than relying on engineering principles alone.
Def a lot of emotions with the younger generation, they hate on things just because it isn't their childhood dream engine, or sound "cool" or what not.
I say the RB engine is a damn good engine for how it performed, the 2JZ too, especially for the low literage they were and how much power you could obtain (The Winfield GTR for example) but it doesn't mean it can't be improved on fundamentally, especially using a V engine like they did in the 35.
At the end of the day, no engine is super perfect, they all have their downsides, I just wish more guys could use this a point to learn new things from instead of getting their panties in a knot. The Fanboy BS is a generation of guys who have still not grown up, they are continuing their schoolyard arguments of their favourite car into adulthood, completely ignoring engineering information.
Well said besides everyone knows the barra is king 😂
Awesome video. Can we have more like this? Especially on the SR20 (considering you have one in JET200) and other popular four cylinders. Keep up the good work 👍
This has been a great series. Informative and entertaining. Love it. Long live the RB's... The billet main cap girdle is a great idea. Didn't know these were available- saves me having to have a one off piece made for myself. Nice
Great to see these rb videos thumbs up
Herman is the man!!!
Thank you sir
@@hermanurriola138 Mad respect for your engineering skills, attention to detail, testing methods and hours of research put into your products :)
Madness! Great engineering
Really helpful, one day maybe I'll build one.
The RB aftermarket has progressed quite a lot in the last 10 years. Makes me want to get an R32 GTR again.
"for people who wanna go stupid on their builds, we are happy to support it" YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Great Video
I used to run a 500kw 2.8L N1 block in a circuit car and I didn't crack the block.
I think the type of driving I was doing was not as detrimental compared to drag launching and secondly, the N1 block was helping that much better and also I was running the HKS crank.
One massive thing Herman has not mentioned here is the stock cranks flex, this in turn pushes on the block too hard when it twists, but with a billet or forged crank you get a higher level of torsional strength, it pushes onto the block far less, this is critical in keeping a 6 banger alive and stopping premature bearing wear etc.
Yes I agree with crank girdles, but ultimately it is the crank that is causing all of this, why not start with a improving the cause of this issue first?
A considerable amount of people who've been building and racing these since the mid 90's mention they wouldn't listen to a thing Herman says. During his brace sales ads and talk, He got very angry when I asked how many 24U (N1) blocks he has seen crack around the turbo oil feed compared to 05U blocks. I sent him two 26 blocks to be tested as in this video and instead of getting my own blocks back it ended up in somebodies engine bay and someone elses property got sent to me i'll be doing my own UA-cam video about this and with a few blocks cut apart so to help you guys see if there is any difference inside or if pretty much the same
What they have no interest in telling you is that the N1 block has a thicker deck and more material around the weak spot near the oil feed hole and rarely cracks in that area where the 05U's do it all the time - Nismos foreman mentioned it in one of his blogs which you can go and read. Anthony from Maatouks Racing who has built more RH7/RH8 GTRs than most mentioned in a post he has never cracked a single N1 block around the oil feed or seen one crack there even with over 1000hp and that they build them without a brace on them, that comment went missing I screenshotted it just incase
This guy knows what he is talking about.
Can you please do a video on head design differences between all RB’s? Would be a good idea with your creativity
Couldn’t stop staring at that rotor housing for some reason 😅
more of this content please andrew
and what's happened to your s14?
Lol watching this now makes me question my 30 build 😂😂 thanks
Hey wait a tick! Is that my block 😂
PRP becoming the go to brand for big and reliable RB power
The full billet intergrated main cap seems like the best idea. What the cost difference? do you need longer main studs? obviously line boring / honing the mains is essential.
The last cradel with build in crank bearings is nice. My boss's have build something simular to a Alfa Romeo engine... Would love to have the resources and knowledge to make "stupid strong" upgrades to my cars.
If I ever get the money to buy a R34 GT-R it’s gonna be done by you!
I assume these would be a good idea on a response build? I have a 400kw super responsive setup, with modified transfer case and front LSD. Doing a refresh at the moment so thought it'd be a good time to add a brace.
I will never ever need it on my RB30, but I am very curious to how the complete billet main cap assembly will compare to the brace, in regards to torsional rigidity and main bearing wear.
Can you make a vid like this for thr JZ and the Barra?
I'd love to see a TB48 tested and spoken about
Question. If you wanted to build a rally RB would this be able to brace the engine from cracking?
When are those Integrated Caps + Brace going to be available ? ! : )
Happy to have a RWD RB26, hopefully no block twisting issues for me 😅😂
Love the rb’s defiantly my motor of choice but I’d love to see a tb48 get sonic tested
Flynno seen any clips with a tb48 in a GTR?
Na but wanting to. apparently there stronger than 2j’s
And about 3x more torque!!
TB48 and the 1FZ are way too big they are no doubt stronger w/o checking main reason is the stroke and rod, oem will make a block stronger because increasing stroke imparts greater side wall forces upon the block.
For an awd rb25 block would i need the rb25 or rb26 brace?
Yes
Haltech brought me here😎💪🏼
RB 4lyf cuz 💪
Weird flex, but ok
the girdle integrated caps has the be the way to go..thats how designer racing engines are
Nice video. i have a question. I am running 400whp on my rb25 now, lot's of mods. What all do i need to get a good 600whp? It's street legal still, got a garrett gt3076r on it atm and my engine is forged rebuild
@Tex 13 well true,I am around 480HP atm but 398 at the wheels. Maybe i just need a bigger turbo since 22psi isnt enough. Max is 24 but 24 and 23 isnt that stable so i left mine at 22...i probably just need a bigger turbo and a re-tune .-.
I've got a rwd RB26 that's gonna make around 500kw. Since it's got no front diff should I worry ? Or should I just send it and if it cracks then look into prp brace
TheLeggera it’s been stated right in the video ppl with big power rwd don’t have block cracking issues at all.
Why the fuk is there 5 thumb downs. Herman has proven his work over and over.
Are there any subframe or front axle clearance issues on any GTR models with the AWD sump sitting 12mm lower?
Russell Hocken heaps of cars run them with no issues
Drive shaft angle will be effected.
@@Roger-nu2ec It has had all of zero real effect on the hundreds of cars using it
people run 2 inches of lift in the 4wds and dont ruin cv's 12mm aint going to be an issue unless your bottoming out or lifting wheels then you have other things to worry about like the fact your crashing
Zero clearance issues. For those that fuss about driveshaft angles, it makes no difference, just as the CV joints move up and down with suspension travel. If anything at launch your front will lift more than 10mm to bring you back into line to where you want to be under power.
Will the brace make the oil pan lower and neew to open up the transmission bolt holes a bit?
What about adding a good amount of solder material to the place where the block cracks?
jasaircraft it won’t make it stronger.. the reason it cracks is because of distortion from the front diff a brace takes care of things there.
yes brace makes the sump lower, plenty of room, and how to modify the bell housing to suit is all on our site under instructions
Solder over the fault line is not enough to compensate for the blocks ultimate strength under load, it takes so much until it cracks, the force causing it to crack are far more than some solder will help with unfortunately but thanks for thinking outside the box on that one, I appreciate it.
Hi I have a skyline r33gtst 1993 2.5 det can any one advise me should I fully forged my rb25 eng. or should I change it to rb26 or rb30 engine there is nothing wrong with rb25 it runs 100% perfect iwant it to push 500 to 550 b.h.p max as iam going to strip it fully to bear shell and full restored it and mid night purple glitter 2 colour any advice which internal parts I should used Andrew can you or anyone else give me information which way should I go about it ??
Andrew what's you waiting time like
Does the billet RB30 girdle also suit the dry sump system so I can brace the block and run a dry sump system at the same time
Can get girdle to suit wet or dry sump
Motive Video thanks, is there a good place to visit for turbochargers trying to find out what would be good for an RB30 as well
My neo has a brace in it, after looking for it, I can’t really find an oem part number? In any case I’m going for the 1k club
Update us man!
are we talking 500kw at the wheels and with AWD?
Hi, how would you go about main caps that have been taken out from the oem block and using that integrated girdle and main cap brace? Do you machine the girdle assembled, torqued and tightened properly and then go about it that way? Curious because i heard main caps and rod caps have a parting line that they have cut from factory and you can't just fit stuff like that on blocks willy nilly, so how would you go about this?
Lime you do an “align hone” basic machining process.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 I knew about "align honing", i swear it was called line honing, maybe because the "a" is silent. I just worry whether its the same if you used different parts from oem main caps. so you wouldn't need to worry about the parting line of the main caps and have those machined flat and worry about whether how much you need to take off to get flat before you worry about how the hole for where the bearings and crankshaft will go. Because if i did it this way, it require some math to figure that out, which is still basic but still a mind fuckery and hurts the head because if not done, the hole for the crankshaft and bearings will be oblong.
if you reused the original main caps to the engine, i dont think you would have to line hone them. an easy test is just tq them down without a crank in and check for any material hanging over.
Frigglebiscuit stop trying too hard noob
@@msengineeringdavid3702 making idiotic comments again, i see.
Do you recomend this brace if i use N1 block and about 1200 hp
i'd say yes
Definitely
You will crack the block next minute or next day with that amount of power going through N1 without any bracing.
Definitely
@@MotiveVideo thank you for the answer will order one as soon as the engine is out
Can you please get a 1jz on your channel? Some toyota forums saying they are better than rbs but i doubt It?
@Ed Jack thats not true. The rb26, 2jz and1jz have the same bore
Not having a go just saying 😊
Block height on a 1j is shorter.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 exactly! Im more interested in a direct comparison: ie number of ports, cylinder wall thickness, sonar testing, like there other videos :)
@Tex 13 useful info, cheers mate
Can you have a good welder fill in those spots to help strengthen the block??
GeeTR 63-71 you can’t weld cast iron you’ll crack it and make the metal lose its strength.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 agreed, its hard to weld and is never as strong as the original casting
@@hermanurriola138 Hello Henry how are you? I love the vids you guys doing so far and learn important things from them. Anyhow my questions about the main cap incorporated girdled you showed. I know aluminum is lighter which is good but 1. Does the aluminum expanding differently and issue over say a billet steal? Also what about a billet main cap with a girdled that ties all the caps together and then to the pan bolt holes? Would that also work well? Thanks George
@@georgehoneymen6045 Hi man, yes expansion rate is very different with alloy, that's why we have not released the alloy brace yet, its in testing still ( all iin one billet main cap version) we have released the steel version, it does tie the pan rail in and it works magnificently
Herman Urriola Thanks for the reply! Is the steel version a two-piece that attaches to the main caps? I’m curious for a Nother application on a Toyota 7M. I have billet main caps I was going to make a billet griddle to attach to the caps and oil pan bolts. Thanks.
⚙️ Just don't go over 600hp and you be fine, in fact for a street use you don't need more than that.
I'm assuming the engine builder would have to be knowledgeable enough and account for heat expansion at different rates if they go for the one with billet main cap bracing in terms of the bearing clearances on the billet and cast iron side?
John Olasau the engineering is done you don’t have to account for anything main line hone and you’re set
MSengineering David you seem to know a lot are you the guy who makes them for platinum?
Roger no those are the basics when you use aftermarket main caps.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 Thanks Dave !
im not so in to the RB world, but do people sleeve rb's?
isacnr7 no one.
Tex 13 those are dry sleeves Jesus Christ stfu.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 you need to fuck right off, dude. i see your stupid rude ass comments all over this video. trying to act like some kind of rb guru or god.
🖒
Why do RB heads crack between #5 and #6 cylinders?
@Ed Jack Do cylinder head steam bleeds fix the problem?
You guys are talking two different things. In answer to your question- the heads generally crack in this area due to localised hot spots from steam pockets. Is the engine going in a VL? The radiator position is a little low on thw Commodores and creates problems getting air pockets out of the cooling system. The fix is to change the way the cooling system is designed and incorporate a proper expansion tank that sits higher than any other part of the cooling system (the inlet manifold in an RB20, 25 and RB30's are the highest point). This becomes the new fill point and will naturally bleed any air out of the system
And put 6 steam bleeds at the high points in the head 👍
probably hot spots. drill steam holes and you should be fine.
Herman for PM...
the engine that comes out later in response to the other engine should always be better... its just common sense, no? regardless, both engines are legendary. wonder how much power the RB block holds in just RWD setup since theres no front diff stress
kgkustomz97ser he said it very clear in the video.
@@msengineeringdavid3702 guess im busted then. lmao.. i didnt watch the whole thing. i just skipped through. you gonna tell me what he said or make me watch the whole thing?
ok... he didnt say a number for the RWD config.. he said some dont crack at all
kgkustomz97ser he said big power rwd have little to *NO* issues cracking blocks. On an RB26 the differential climbs the ring gear and wants to rip out of its hold in a twisting manner that force is applied to the block and that cracks it. Ever see RWD cars lift wheels before on one front tire? Specifically the front right it’s from the ring gear lifting the body which happens in a diagonal motion same thing happens to RB’s with diffs mounted to the engine block.
so around 600 + hp will damage the block ??
KING AVE 72 apparently with a 4wd diff
Mine cracked :-/ exactly where he said.. can't help it 600bhp launches are too much fun 🤣
ANTSGTR was you dragging it
man, use a De-esser post production
RWD is the way to go on a GTR. So many less things to reinforce and replace
Ngl, The integrated main cap brace made me skeet
I'll just use flex tape!!!
@tommyfyeah
Knew it was a ploy 😂
So silly question but after watching all the JZ vs RB videos, why do you guys still insist on continuing with RBs?
Boosted Moose what a stupid question .
So a 2j bottom end with girdle and a 26 head should be the perfect combo?
Any particular reason why 1000-1200 hp on either platform isn't enough? Nobody likes Dyno Queens so unless you have a practical use for having more than that...
@@dj4monie you would think yes, but your average time attack car now runs over 1000HP, and drag... well, more, not for long but much more, so as our clients push these limits, we are asked to come up with solutions to help, it is getting crazy :)
@@dj4monie 100% this. im so tired of these stupid hp wars.
If you want stop cracking a rb block ..
Get a 2JZ
vegeta 2jz facts 💯
Just buy a dart little m and be done with it!!! Slap a couple of gtx 35r's on it and off you go!!! 5mm wall thickness at 450ci. No brainer!...
In lines sound better.
lol people that want to go stupid basicly everyone hahahaha nice work
“For people that wanna go stupid on there build”, not everyone has a spare 60k to go as stupid as they would like.
Revision 15, now thats alot of cracked RBs
007 007 revisions weren’t due to that. Ever.
It was things like different strokers, improves bolts, making it fit multiple RB blocks etc.
Perhaps ask before creating your own ideas out of thin air with no evidence
This is really easy the basic to fix it is to put a 2J Z motor in it way better block and you won't have the issues that you do with a Nissan block
How will that fix it when you want your GTR to remain 4wd?
@@callummcrae7774 There's a company in Russia that specializes in AWD conversions for 2JZ powered cars. Problem solved :)
A girdle
Wow no wonder so many people choose a 2Jz instead it much simple and you don't have to do all this stuff.
eldan wiggins a 2jz cracks mains and they don’t have a diff that twist on it for launches dumbass.
eldan wiggins before you run your mouth even further mains of a 2jz at 900whp blog.titanmotorsports.com/wp-content/gallery/Titan-Main-Caps/titan-main-caps-01.JPG
Agreed 2j are better
@@msengineeringdavid3702 2jz is far superior...there is a video of 2jz versus any RB or RD motor
Jacob Walls idiot no one said anything as to what’s superior they both need mods to last don’t reply to me with adolescent 1 liners because you watched the other video from this channel.
Step 1, fit a 2J
Simply by a 2jz
and lose 4WD and be slow
Lol 😆 unless your running a Is billet block why waste your money
Now your videos have grown lil boys saying 2jz is superior from a block examination 🤔 if only the cylinder head from a 2jz was adequate.
At least you can modify it to suit your needs
Its got a Yamaha head man its not bad at all!
Compeer Raa gte head follows like ass and every port is different GE ports are way better.
I hope they put out 50 more vids saying the 2j is the best engine ever built in all the history of engines. It will only raise the cost of 2js and lower the cost of RBs. #RBswapeverything!
+MSengineering David While it is true that a stock GTE head doesn't have the best flow, it has been proven to support in excess of 1500hp. Don't confuse capability with realibility.
Almost 2 grand for a damn cradle, wtf you can buy a 2jz for that.
tuurbow
My brother just go with 1uzfe vvti
V8 with a manual trans
Boi Santana
And a 6 bolt mains.
yep, basically if you want AWD cool, otherwise JZ.
Spelling error 7:08 haha
Basically he’s saying go 2jz
if you haven't cracked a RB then you're not a real skyline owner tbh
Yaze 76 or a smart one.
How to strengthen a RB. Buy a 2J. hahahah
The RB is not in the top 10 list of any engine you would want to take to the limit
Or the N1 is crap so they sell you a brace and all your problems are over lol
@Tex 13 the 2jz holds just about every speed and et record for any engine with 6 cylinders ever there are bigger engines with more cylinders and more power but if it's 6 cylinders you want the 2jz is undoubtedly the best to choose.
If its strong as its over rated ..why it needs bracing to stop cracking 😂
raheel saleem the cracking is from an external factor not an internal issue.
Step one 1: buy a 1JZ/2JZ
step2, no front diff and go slower in a street car