Subaru EJ253 Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement
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- Опубліковано 2 вер 2017
- Overview of rocker cover gasket replacement on a 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i.
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - Авто та транспорт
Used this video extensively to replace the gaskets & seals on my 2010 Legacy 2.5i, thank you for making this.
For those wondering, it is entirely possible to do this without jacking the engine. In my case, I needed to unscrew the fuse box to allow the bulky wire harness to be pushed aside and plug coils to be removed. Drivers' side valve cover can be lifted up while slightly rotating it counterclockwise (which helps it fit along the frame), and to the left to pull it out. Took me about half a day to do given how meticulous I am, but well worth the savings and learning experience.
It took me all day new years eve to change out my timing belt and water pump. But doing it myself and the satisfaction that comes with it is invaluable. Mr subaru rules!
I just did this job on my 2010 Legacy. I wouldn't have attempted it without your tutorial. Thanks so much!
This is by far one of the best write-up I have seen. I like the fact there is more doing and less talking.
Dr. Mr. Subaru,
I literally study your videos. But at the same time, I curse you with your awesome tools and clean subarus. I know I'm new and everyone starts somewhere. You should do a video about how you started out.
Did this job today with the help of this video, thank you MrSubaru. The driver side cover was a serious pain to get out due to it being so close to the frame. It wouldn't fit over the crankshaft so we jacked up the engine after loosening the transmission mounting bolts a bit. Good luck to anyone doing this job!
I just used this video on my 2012 Forester. Almost identical and went very smoothly.
Thanks for the tip on draining the oil.
I changed a rusted coolant tube (from water pump to heater core) at the same time, since having the rocker cover off gave me some more room.
I did have to remove the engine mount nuts and lift the engine 1-1/2" to 2" to get the new tube in under the left side head. The old tube broke in half and came out nicely in two pieces.
Just did this job today! Worked out exactly as in the video. A bit tight but with some patience I gotter done. Thanks for the upload!
It's painfully tight, but evidently it can be done. Thank you for making this video.
Thanks so much, Mr Subaru. Did my 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i today and can confirm that it's possible without lifting engine if you undo the fuel galley bolts on driver side. Mine had 3 more connectors on driver side to disconnect, either because its 2012 change or California specific, so I had to remove oil filler to clear the intake manifold guard out. Changed plugs, PCV, cleaned TB, and did idle relearn thanks to what I learned here. I can't even imagine how much the dealer would charge to do this, but I am guessing 4 figures easily. Thanks and happy holidays!
Engine colour 8:42 and 16:30 indicates it's in good shape. Excellent quality image taking care of details
Great video. My dealer(who I love BTW, free oil changes and free inspections!), wants $900 to do this, which I think is insane. I'm going to tackle this in a couple weeks when the weather gets warmer. I just need a torque wrench. Time to buy one.
Glad I could help. 👍
Great video! A few tips based on completing this job on a similar gen Legacy 2.5i: 1) Go gently on the rocker cover bolts. I awkwardly put too much pressure on the ratchet and cross threaded one of the bolts on the way out (not fun). Hand-tighten/loosen where possible 2) Drivers side was slightly more difficult than the passenger side. Wiring harness seems a bit larger, making the manifold cover tricky to remove but it will come out. Getting the rocker cover back on this side was trickier, what worked for me was keeping the bottom 1/3 of the cover along the frame rail and sliding across, then down (the oil filler neck will snag on stuff). I also had a more difficult time getting at the lower bolts on this side (especially the one furthest back), and ended up removing the splash guard and removing from underneath the car. 3) As other's mentioned, try to clean-up as much oil from the spark plug tubes before removing plugs if you're doing that along with this job. I ended up having some drip into the combustion chamber (quickly burns off) but the less the better.
You cannot cross thread coming out. Wtf did you do.
I agree, when removing a bolt, it is impossible to cross thread the bolt. You can strip the head but the threads can only be crossed installing them
Gracias Amigo from Mexico!!
Did it today with your video. Thanks. You will need a crowfoot for a gen4 outback to get the lowest furthest bolt torqued on the driver side.
Excellent video. I just changed the same on my EJ204 Forester. Great tip on draining the oil. Though they were not due I also changed the air cleaner and the spark plugs since they were easily accessible, good stuff.
@mikhail coffin yes it is, with the variable timing system in the intake side
@mikhail coffin Yes it is, with the variable timing system on the intake side
havenet even started watching but gave an instant like anyway because i know it will be worth watching ;)
Next project! Thx for the post.
Damn that one is so easy to work on. The plugs up high, less bolts on the head covers, no permatex black added. Those plug seals sure were on good though. I replaced a leaking oil filler seal a few weeks ago, this is a good reminder I should check plug 2 for any oil leaks, (looked like oil from the filler was running down into it), and the cross member below too used to have oil on it.
Another excellent video.
+cottonzway thank you.
I’ll be doing mine this weekend in my 11 Outback due to my spark plug seals going bad. Then on to catalytic converter and timing belt kit service.
Bravo and thank you.
In northern climates you should put anti-seize on the shoulder of the rocker cover bolt, I had corrosion build up between the bolt and the valve cover and ended up having to cut the heads of some of the bolts off and heat them........a lot
Thanks
Thanks for helping me about it........thanks a los
hi mate, thanks for this video, very helpful. I did my drivers side today (right hand drive 2.5i 07 liberty), torqued my top middle cover bolt to spec but it snapped unfortunately. I have a mate with a bolt recovery kit so hopefully I can dig it out, have a few replacement bolts coming.
a question though, I took my car for a test drive after the replacement, and I've noticed what seems to be a very apparent alternator whine. what could possibly cause this? is this normal when a battery has been disconnected and connected again?
edit: I'm wondering if I've yanked on my power steering hose too hard at some point and maybe damaged the O ring or hose. the sound may be coming from the power steering pump, not the alternator...
Thank you for the excellent video and demonstration. When torquing the valve covers do you torque A,B,C,D,E, & F at 4.7 FT LBS. and then re-torque A & B only at 4.7 FT LBS? Thanks!
Was changing spark plugs today, only completed two bc it started snowing (mass) pretty hard before I could do the battery side. One of the plugs had oil on it. This is my new project. First question, how urgent is this problem? I'm trying to knock out a timing belt service on my 06 forester (slight knocking and at 210k miles). Second question, should I be using pb blaster to loosen these cover bolts? I had a nightmare with two pinch bolts on a ball joint replacement.... you seem to have unusually clean subies
I can’t thank you enough, I did driver side in 2 hrs and I have never done one before. Took my time and it’s not that difficult other than the 5th screw at bottom right.
Replaced both spark plug well seals and valve cover gasket. There are two things I’m concerned about, I don’t have a torque wrench that measures from 0 and I only found one of the old well seal gaskets on my oil drain pan when I was done.....😬😬😬
Should I be concerned?
Had problems with the driver side. Could not wiggle the intake manifold cover out. Would there be any issues if I removed the oil fill tube that connects into the rocker cover and then wiggle the manifold cover out? Awesome videos! The passenger side was breeze with your help.
Question: at 6:42 you remove bolts securing the "fuel gallery to the intake manifold," but then I don't see you remove (or move) anything that would have been held by those bolts. Was this more of a just in case situation, such as if you needed to make more room to get the cover out (but then you didn't)? Or did I miss something? Am I correct that the removal of the protector was same - not because it was directly connected, but done to make more room? Thank you very much! I use your videos often. Especially appreciate the addition of the torque specs.
Awesome video as always. I did this on mine but didn't purchase Subaru gasket now it's leaking again. Question: You don't how to torque down the bolts (D, B and E) Not sure how you got the torque wrench down in that little space. I was hard-pressed to get a small open-ended wrench in that area. The right-hand side is a PIA to finagle back in, how did you accomplish this without having the gasket pop out of the groove?
Do you need to pull the fuel pump fues and relieve the pressure? I seen some videos on UA-cam where they unbolt the fuel rail for more clearance. I hope that’s not necessary. Thanks.
First off, great tutorial. I was gonna have my mechanic do this but after watching all the details, I didn't trust anyone to do this job. My mechanic probably would've stripped the last bolt and called it good... see below. Please help.
I torqued the intake manifold to 25Nm to spec and stripped one bolt, the remainder were perfect. Probably imperfection in the alloy. Anywho, correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I can tap without removing the intake manifold and avoid drilling through it. I now have to Helicoil new threads unfortunately, whats the torque spec for removing and installing the throttle body from intake manifold?
You’re a wealth of knowledge. I’m going to do rocker cover gaskets and valve adjustments with the help of your videos. It’s a 2010 Forester. I’ll be doing this with the engine in the vehicle. How hard is it to get to the valves? And what are the specs for intake and exhaust valves?
Not too terrible to get at.
Intake
0.20±0.04 mm (0.0079±0.0016 in)
Exhaust
0.25±0.04 mm (0.0098±0.0016 in)
Great video. Would imagine this is the opportune time to check the valve clearance. I'm getting some knock at low RPM accelerating from a stop.
+Robert Ferraro that it would be. The valve cover gasket isn't reusable, so now is the time to check it.
Hey Mrsubaru1387 . I have a question . Unfortunately I didn't see this video before and I sent my Outback 2011 to a local shop to perform this work. I have noticed that in bolt (e) it's leaking oil after the procedure and I asked the mechanic about it and he told me it must be the bolt problem but I was thinking that probably is the gasket that did not seal well in that part . how is possible that exist a leak thru that bolt ?
Any idea?.
Thanks a lot.
Love your videos.
What's your stance on using gasket sealant? Getting ready to tackle or be tackled by this project..
Edit: drivers side cover would not come out. Not a chance. Was able to hang the cover in place by placing a long extension in one and a ratchet in the other spark plug hole, then feed the new gasket between the rockers and cover until I could work it around the perimeter and tuck it in the groove of the cover. Not as perfectly clean as I would like but better than jacking the engine for me.
So, I have a 2010 Outback 2.5i and it was physically impossible to get the driver's side cover off with out jacking the engine. No way I was doing that. Did Subaru make additional clearance on the 2011 model drivers side? I ended up replacing the gasket and seals carefully with the cover off but still within the confines of the engine bay. Every tube seal was leaking and hard as plastic.
Is this a problem I have 2015 subaru legacy and it seems to be leaking from rocker cover gasket
How do you replace the spark plug tubes?
How did you remove the driver side cover? I could never get that off.
Hello sir. You are my subaru guru for my built STI build my 2.5i 5 speed impreza and my brothers ej251. Doing this now for the 251 forester. Thinking about using a thin coat of rtv on either side of the sparkplug tube seals and the valve cover bolt seals. Not a good idea?
I'm assuming this is a similar process for the fb20's.
Great video once again MrSubaru. I was wondering what prompted the replacement of the gaskets and seals. Is it mileage, age or a detected oil leak? I have a spark plug and timing belt replacement at 75k coming up and maybe a good opportunity to get the rockers off while I'm at it.
Thanks for all the videos. They're very confidence inspiring for a Subaru novice like this one.
+Michael McCandless if you watch last week's video, I discovered an internal oil leak, in the spark plug wells, while changing the spark plugs.
the cover wont come off on my outback 2012 on the driver side. Not enough rooooooom
Would this video help me on my 2010 impreza ? My driver side gasket started leaking 🙃
Another fine video, thanks! Getting ready to tackle this project thanks to you, and I will be throwing in some new spark plugs as well. What is the best way to clean out any motor oil that may have deposited in the spark plug wells ? Parts cleaner spray? Also, what is the best way to clean the CoilPacks of any motor oil residue? I was thinking Dawn and warm water, but am not sure. Thanks Again
I use brake parts cleaner and compressed air. Don't mix water with coil packs.
Should I leave the old spark plugs installed when I spray the well with Parts Cleaner, or have the plugs removed ?
Better to clean the wells with the old plugs in place. Keeps oil and cleaner from getting into the combustion chamber.
Did you remove the lower 3 rocker cover bolts on the passenger side from under the car? Also, does a socket fit or do you need a ratcheting box wrench? I live in a northern climate, and noticed the heads of those fasteners were fairly rusty.
I remove them from the top, but I reach my arm under the head to do it. 1/4" ratchet and socket fits all but the furthest back bolt on the bottom. It needs a wrench.
Great video as always sir 👍🏻
Are you going to do compression test on her? Would be awesome if you video on how its done and what tools you're using. Also how do you diagnose if the fuel injectors functioning right? Are you planing doing video on cleaning the injectors? Some people told me to just pour gumout in the gas tank and it should do its job but I never really believed in those products.. I think taking them off and cleaning is the best
+Tu Pimp A Caterpillar glad you enjoyed the video. ua-cam.com/video/Hc_DktFujm0/v-deo.html already done a compression test video, here's the link. As far as the injectors, I'd just put a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner in it. Rarely do injectors need to be cleaned now a days. Fuel quality and filter basically take care of the issue.
The first barrier to avoid problems with the fuel is to select a service station with an adequate dispenser maintenance, especially dispenser filters updated ua-cam.com/video/YN4KN9AI4fI/v-deo.html. When we refill there's usually a sticker near the hose to prove a proper maintenance and a metrological control. In this video sticker is pink ua-cam.com/video/ycF2s-OIESo/v-deo.html
MrSubaru1387 Awesome! Thank you!
+Tu Pimp A Caterpillar welcome!
I love how the most difficult part, removing the cover on passenger side, he just cuts to having it out like can you show us how you did it because it seems physically impossible as it’s pinned between the frame and the engine and I can’t get it out
It's tough but I was able to get mine out.
im thinking of putting in new gaskets on my 2008 outback soon, would you recommend against using hi temp gasket maker in the grooves of the rocker cover before putting in the new gaskets to make it super sealed ? or would that be completely unnecessary ?
just the gasket . it goes in dry
Does anyone know if I will have to lift up the engine to do this on my 2014 forester ?
do you have a link to a PDF for the torque specs and order for the rocker covers
Thanks for this promised video! Very good job, I have a little leakage from cover gasket on driver's side, will try to replace on both side!
Have a question: do I need to use some lubricant to cover gasket and seals when replace them?
+Yaroslav Arabok nope. These gaskets go on dry. No lubricant, silicone, or RTV required. DOHC 2.5Ls do call for Fuji bond RTV sealer in some areas, but not on the late model SOHC.
MrSubaru1387 , ok, thanks!
Also if you'll have a chance to do the following jobs please don't forget to record them :)
1. EJ253 Camshaft and crankshaft seals replacement
2. Outback 2010 - 2014 EJ253 fuel filter replacement
Thanks in advance :)
+Yaroslav Arabok 2010-2014 fuel filter is in the tank and non-serviceable. I've done a video on cam and crank seals.
Crank seal replacement is located in this video. ua-cam.com/video/cvcfaTHa5WM/v-deo.html
Cam seals in the end of this video. ua-cam.com/video/r4ttWFsba3Y/v-deo.html
When do you know it's time for this maneuver? Oil dripping under vehicle? Or done at specified (time/mileage) interval?
Either or. I would do this every 100 thousand miles while replacing spark plugs
Hi Mr Subaru. I have a 2009 Impreza. While changing the spark plugs I noticed some oil on both the plugs and the boots. Suspect the spark well seals are leaking. Is it worth taking off the rocker panel to replace the seals if the valve cover gasket isn't leaking? If so should I just go ahead and change the gaskets while I'm in there? Thanks. Love the videos.
If the spark plug well seals are leaking, yes you need to replace those seals as well as the rocker cover gasket. Oil on the plugs will degrade the wires and cause misfires.
Hi, there is an Oil leak on my Inside the Spark Plug Wells on both side, does it suggests Head Gasket Change or Just Rocker Cover Gasket?
Rocker cover gaskets. More specifically, the spark plug tube seals.
I failed to take out driver side rocker cover, I only replaced spark plug tube seals. Any tip to take the rocker cover out?
there is no space to take out.
Bummer, This is exactly the problem what I am worrying abt. I seems the engine bay is slightly bigger than mine. My car is Subaru Legacy 2005 BP5 2.0
Another great video! Question I noticed the other day on my 01rs a little oil seeping through timing cover right beneath crank pulley. Is this sure sign of a bad oil pump?
+Nathan Acuna most likely it's a bad crank seal.
MrSubaru1387 thanks dude!
It seems you forgot to show reinstalling the timing cover bolt on the right hand side. From another video of yours I know the torque on that bolt is 5Nm
What happens if you over-torque the valve cover? I could not fit my torque wrench in there esp on the backside to verify torque?
Over torque? You'll strip or snap the bolts off.
two things, 1. I watched that you don't clean the mating areas between the covers or inner gasket channel?2. I was always informed that it's a good idea to have a clean surface when replacing with new gaskets......
and both rocker gaskets are the same part number from subaru?3. Is it easier to replace the plugs with the covers off or just wait till they are back on? going to try to man handle this next weekend when my parts show up.
Just because I didn't show it, doesn't mean I didn't clean the rocker cover. Replace the plugs with the rocker covers on. Less likely to get or drop contaminants into the head/valve train.
@@MrSubaru1387 I do not assume anything, I appreciate your feedback. I'm just one of those "seeing is believing" kind of guy. wrench on man.
Do you use Fel Pro kits or do you buy OEM? Can this be done without removing the injector rail on a 2008?
I use OEM. On the 08, I believe you can remove them without touching the injectors.
I think you forgot to include putting the timing belt cover bolt back in.
Is it necessary to replace the spark plug well seals when changing the valve cover gaskets?
No but you should if you're taking off the covers anyway
It is possible to have head gasket replaced without removing the engine. It's hard work ?
You can replace head gaskets in car, but it's waaaaaaaaaay easier to do them with the engine removed.
Did you clean the oil from the plug wells when you did this? If so, how did you do it? Thanks!
Yes. Shot of brake parts cleaner and then blow it out with air.
That’s with the spark plug still in right?
Yes.
Otherwise it goes into the cylinders.
Ok, thanks! I’m having to do this at 100k miles. I was a bit surprised when I found oil there when changing the spark plugs. Wasn’t much but enough to get on the end of the plug socket. Subaru tech told me it would only get worse.
do you use sealant or rtv on this model? I am changing ones on a 2011 legacy
No. Gasket goes on dry.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you, dealership said I needed to use fuji bond, at $48 and have read conflicting stories to, or not to use something.
Wait, so you CAN access the bottom center and aft bolts with a torque wrench without jacking the engine up??
Yes
@@MrSubaru1387 that gives me some more confidence with attempting this, I was thinking people "estimate" the torque spec on the bottom rear bolts if they can't jack up the engine. Thank you!
@@MrSubaru1387 but this is not the case for an 04 impreza obs, ej251?
Are the engine specs on this engine the same as in a 2007 2008
Pretty much the same on all SOHC 2.5L engines.
is this applicable to 2008 subaru impreza? im just confuse of too many kind of ej25 engines.. i don't even know what kind i have.. theres ej253 ej254.. great vid as always.. thank you👍
Yes, should be the same for your 08 Impreza.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the reply. but got more questions. can i use brake cleaner to clean the oil leaks under the engine? do i need to use gasket sealant (silver colored paste) on the gasket before putting it back? planning to work on my car next oil change.. thanks a lot man. 🤘
Yes, brake parts cleaner is fine for removing oil from the engine. Use RTV only where shown. No need to coat the gasket. Shouldn't need any on the SOHC rocker covers.
Mr.subaru1387 I have to do this on a 2001 Subaru outback 2.5L. Do i need to drain the oil before doing this?
No, oil doesn't have to be drained, but it helps. You'll spill some oil either way. Be prepared to add after your done.
MrSubaru1387 will do man! Thank you so much. Long time subscriber here. Your videos are very detailed it has helped me understand Subaru's a lot more. Your an awesome mechanic. Thank you again!
You're welcome. Glad to help. 👍🏻
There is also another gasket after the valve cover what is it called?
The two sprak plug tube seals?
Just finished the job on both covers. I started the car, after accelerating the Subaru Boggs down. Do you know why it’s doing this?
Check that you didn't leave something disconnected. You probably need to clean the throttle body and do an idle relearn since the battery was disconnected.
Do you plan to fix FB20 or FA20 engine ?
+Andrew Yeh if I can get my hands on one. Lol
Do you know what the valve clearances are on the ej253 motor? Currently have the gaskets and seals just want to adjust the valve leash while I'm down their lol
What year and model?
2010 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 2.5L ej253
Intake: 0.20 +/-0.04mm (0.0079+/-0.0016 in)
Exhaust: 0.25 +/-0.04mm (0.0098 +/-0.0016 in)
Thank you so much man! Really saving me lol
You're welcome. 👍
no liquid gasket maker on the rocker cover gasket?
No.
hey, i was wondering if you could help me by answering a question for me... were there valve cover grommets? i bought a car that did not have grommets, but the covers wont stop weeping, even with the bolts bottomed out. i called subi and they said i need 4 grommmets per, but i dont see where they would go?
What model, year, engine?
07 impreza, 2.5i sohc
i keep getting controversial answers, gave the vin to subi and theysaid no grommets but like i said it wont stop weeping, had to bottom out the valve cover bolts to try and stop it and no go
Yes, you should have grommets on the rocker cover bolts.
MrSubaru1387 smh thats why i figured i couldnt stop the small leak, but then i went to subaru and they said i shouldnt need them, now i gotta find them. Thx man
I noticed that you didn't apply and RTV seal. Is it optional?
+Steve Torres no RTV is needed.
MrSubaru1387 awesome, thanks for the fast response! I am going in :)
+Steve Torres you're welcome. 👍
Do you live in texas ?
I need to change gasket for my crosstrek 2015
South Carolina
How long did the whole procedure take?
For me, around an hour. First time, a lot a lot more time.
@@MrSubaru1387 lol ok, thanks.
15:25, Sir, I have watched through the video to this point, and the one thing I was waiting to see, you cut out of this video. I have a 2010 Legacy I am working on, and frankly, short of pulling the engine I can not see how the hell you get that valve cover out.[ I have it in my shop on a rack the lower cover off and I have even removed the intake manifold. How does one manipulate it out of there please???
If you have the intake manifold off, it should pull right out with no issues. The only thing they hang on normally is the fuel rail.
@@MrSubaru1387 I was afraid you were going to say that. I do not know if this car was in a front end accident or if the left frame rail is just made too close. What I ended up doing is removing the 4 nut/bolts from the front motor mount and lowering the frame cradle bolt (About 1 inch) and then removed the two top motor mount nuts on the two rear mounts. I then used a ratcheting strap in the front engine support rods for the front motor mount, and ran it around the right frame rail. I was able to get the engine over enough to easily get the cover to clear. I had already removed the air cleaner assembly, and in the future, I think I will just do it this way, sure made it easier. Thank you for your replay to a fellow Tech.
Once I got the engine pulled over, I was able to get it in and out even with the gasket in place with ease. There was no issue doing the passenger side at all, so it could be this car has a frame issue. Mr Sub, if your on Mitchell, I posted this up on the suretrack site. And if you would like some pickers, I can e-mail them to you. Thank again.
This doesn't seem that hard, should I pay my shop $550 to do this??
Seems steep just for rocker cover gaskets.
You reused footage from the spark plug video, lol
+Michael N caught me. Filmed the same day. Used footage from the timing belt video as well. Haha.
MrSubaru1387 why not? Don't need to reinvent the wheel. :-)
What do you think Mr Subaru? Are these genuine parts? From Partsouq. twitter.com/Bwp4444/status/1323459207115403265/photo/1
Different coloured writing(no blue, all black) slight differences and one in particular definitely doesn't look right. Totally different label on the crush washers for the sump plug (only label like this) and Heavy is spelled Heavey in "Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd". All the bags but one, have "Subaru Corporation" printed on them instead of "Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd" and some bags are printed differently, not all uniformly printed the same way(slightly different format in the printing of the part numbers.)
The parts on the whole look beautiful and nicely machined and attention to detail, particularly on the "Inner Tie Rods" they're nice and tight, and a beautiful, beautiful smooth formed machined finish to them and on the threads, but just on one, on the outer threads, about 4 threads in just one tiny area have a little flat spot on them. But the other I can't fault apart from just 2 tiny nicks or dents(like from a punch or being banged against a hard metal edge) in a thick part of the shaft where it wont matter. (But I do mean tiny, barely 2mm across.) And there's a white grease neatly surrounding the tight ball joint in the back of the joint. The nuts for them I bought separately, go on just right with no slop but just a slight hesitation where that flat spot was, (that you can only just feel with your fingers I mean it's really small) and once on it was smooth again and you don't notice it. On both, neatly stamped into one of the flats on the head of the ball joints where the tightening tool goes it reads "9Y29". The brown paper wrapping the head/ball joint has "Oji F-Tex Co.,Ltd." printed on it as well as mainly english safety precautions relating to safety data sheets, and some asian writing on the bottom as well as what appears to be I think it's Arab numerals ending with SS.
The plastic yellow clamp that holds the hood stay at rest was a perfect slip in with no play whatsoever and works perfectly.
The parts came from Partsouq in United Arab Emirates and were shipped by airmail and arrived in no time after ordering. The only gripe I have is that they ship the parts first and then then let you know what was unavailable that you can reorder. The price of the parts make up for the shipping charge as they are relatively cheap and far cheaper than what I can get locally with Australia's ominously expensive genuine parts setup.
I have spoken with another UA-camr who has used Partsouq for many orders for his Supra and WRX and he said he hasn't had a problem with any of the parts as long as you order genuine and not the cheaper substitute parts.
So I really don't know what to think at this stage. Do I put them on my car or not? Does Partsouq have a way of getting these parts really cheap from the manufacturer and then adding their own labels, I don't know what the story is? I know to look out for flashy parts trying to fool you, but these seem made right, solid and form fitting.
EDIT: There was great care taken with the packing- heavies on the bottom, light and fragile on the top and separated by lots of bubble wrap all round, nothing could move and the windscreen wiper that is an excellent fit was on top separated by more bubble wrap.
Looks genuine, all aside from the crush washers. Those come in a 10 or 20 pack only. So, not genuine packaging for the two in that bag with the grammatical error.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks man, much appreciated. Yeah I don't know about the crush washers, I'm thinking maybe they make their own packs from a genuine pack so you can buy less and they mark them up a bit. I could have bought just one if I wanted to.
Just fitted a new striker and buffers for the rear tailgate and honestly they are exactly the same in every way.
Just thought of another video I don't think you have, which is testing the ignition coil using a multimeter to see if it's in spec. Primary and secondary pins. Mine is out of spec on one side, it should show an ohm reading going by the repair manual and it shows nothing. I double checked I was doing it right too. The only thing I don't know is how this affects everything if one is out of spec, the car runs fine?
A video on that alone with a bit of knowledge I think would be really helpful.
Cheers mate.
Unrealistic for most old subarus that have gotten to the age of a leaking valve cover gasket. Count on at least one or two of the bolts holding the covers on to be corroded in place. No amount of heat, bolt-out-sockets, or cursing will free them. Unless you're working in fantasy land of non-corrosion, you need to be prepared to cut the whole cover off around these devil bolts. That would have saved me a lot of headache if it was mentioned.