Bob, Some cuts may be made on a crosscut saw, but the pieces are soon too small for safe work. They may be cut with a hacksaw. I cleaned most of my edges on a sanding disc. Shooting with very fine cuts is possible. Planecraft suggests steep angles 80 to 85 degrees. On a block plane. Best wishes, David
@@DavidCharlesworth I bought a set of Formica sample chips from a craft site (Etsy). They were the right size for this task. After marking the angle onto each chip, I ended up running them through the table saw on a crosscut sled -- that's what we use on this side of the pond where slider saws are rare and pricey. I put down a thin, high-friction sheet of plastic so the part would not move as I pressed down hard and ran the sled carefully past the front (back?) of the blade, then turned off the saw once the chip was cut. The edges were fine after a light sanding. I love those little blocks and use them in every honing.
@@DavidCharlesworth Now I've made considerable progress in making this jig. I have the top and bottom parts shaped per the drawing I sent. They are overlong for now, until after I bore the connecting holes. Next I'll work on the brass screws. These seem to be taking up a lot of mindshare. I have some #8s that look like they will work, but the head of a #10 seems more robust for tightening and retightening. I'm using a nice hard jatoba, so maybe I'm fretting too much, but your screw heads look pleasingly wide -- at least the front one. Due to the milder angle on my jig (knife at 25º from normal rather than 35º as I guess you have), I'm planning to use two screws near the knife and one in the back. It seems this will hold the knife in more securely -- important when using the Tormek. Screw length: I've discerned from your video that the length of the screw is immaterial as long as it's longer than two thickness of the wood: you just cut the ends off after working the threads into the wood parts. I expect I'll mark them and take them out before I cut them to length. Still, some lengths have a longer unthreaded shaft. I want to have all thread and no bare shaft in the bottom part. Now I know what to look for in the hardware store. For the tabs that lock the Tormek fence on, there is that additional step of sawing off the head, which of course needs to be done while the screw is in the wood for good. Clever jig, and I'll be glad to have it soon! The one in your third book is your Odate-inspired spokeshave holder. (I see what you mean about the editing on the dimensions!)
David, do you have a method for sharpening and honing a L-N concave spoke shave blade? I just acquired a nice used L-N spokeshave via EBay. The body of the tool is fine. The blade is badly chipped and a corner is snapped off. Is there any good methods for grinding, sharpening and honing a concave blade? Thank you!
Brian, Concave blades not one of my specialities! I think I would wrap AlOx paper round a suitable dowel. The blade is kept horizontal so that you can judge angle. When the "grinding work is done, you can switch to a fine paper or slipstone, at about 2 degrees steeper, to polish the edge. Felt tip marker is helpful here.
David Charlesworth Thank you for your prompt reply. I understand the technique of using a similarly shaped dowel then wrap a suitable abrasive on it for grinding then, honing. I’m not familiar with the AIOx product you mentioned. Why do you recommend this abrasive? Where would I buy it? I use Festool products and have a supply of their Granat abrasive only up to P320 for wood working. However Festool’s Granat goes up to 1,500 grit if memory serves me well). Then thinking a new L-N concave blade is $40, so I need to factor this in as well. Under the ‘what’s my shop time worth’ line of reasoning. Thank you!
Li-Nielsen sell suitable self adhesive, abrasive papers. Aluminium oxide is just a tougher abrasive than the silicone carbide which is found on wet and dry paper. David
I was told in my early days that sharp means the intersection of 2 planes, in away that tapers to 0 thickness; however, I have been able to use a blade that is less than 0 thickness; how close to 0 do you accept? Ha,ha, you don't know, do you?
I love that this still pops up in my feed. David was - and is - a gentle guiding light for the woodworker. Much love.
As always an excellent short video from David. A very useful jig, many thanks, Mike Watkins.
A little plan would be great. Great idea.thanks
Very smart jig! Thank you for sharing.
Pura vida David great video and explanations
I just heard of his passing. RIP.
great vid david :)
Hi David. Simple question if I may: what is your preferred method of cutting the Formica chips cleanly and precisely like that?
Bob,
Some cuts may be made on a crosscut saw, but the pieces are soon too small for safe work.
They may be cut with a hacksaw.
I cleaned most of my edges on a sanding disc.
Shooting with very fine cuts is possible. Planecraft suggests steep angles 80 to 85 degrees. On a block plane.
Best wishes,
David
@@DavidCharlesworth I bought a set of Formica sample chips from a craft site (Etsy). They were the right size for this task. After marking the angle onto each chip, I ended up running them through the table saw on a crosscut sled -- that's what we use on this side of the pond where slider saws are rare and pricey. I put down a thin, high-friction sheet of plastic so the part would not move as I pressed down hard and ran the sled carefully past the front (back?) of the blade, then turned off the saw once the chip was cut. The edges were fine after a light sanding. I love those little blocks and use them in every honing.
@@b1j Well done Bob,
AS you know, I have found them very useful.
In fact this week with the weeks new students.
Best wishes,
David
@@DavidCharlesworth Now I've made considerable progress in making this jig. I have the top and bottom parts shaped per the drawing I sent. They are overlong for now, until after I bore the connecting holes. Next I'll work on the brass screws. These seem to be taking up a lot of mindshare. I have some #8s that look like they will work, but the head of a #10 seems more robust for tightening and retightening. I'm using a nice hard jatoba, so maybe I'm fretting too much, but your screw heads look pleasingly wide -- at least the front one. Due to the milder angle on my jig (knife at 25º from normal rather than 35º as I guess you have), I'm planning to use two screws near the knife and one in the back. It seems this will hold the knife in more securely -- important when using the Tormek.
Screw length: I've discerned from your video that the length of the screw is immaterial as long as it's longer than two thickness of the wood: you just cut the ends off after working the threads into the wood parts. I expect I'll mark them and take them out before I cut them to length. Still, some lengths have a longer unthreaded shaft. I want to have all thread and no bare shaft in the bottom part. Now I know what to look for in the hardware store.
For the tabs that lock the Tormek fence on, there is that additional step of sawing off the head, which of course needs to be done while the screw is in the wood for good.
Clever jig, and I'll be glad to have it soon! The one in your third book is your Odate-inspired spokeshave holder. (I see what you mean about the editing on the dimensions!)
Thank you for this video! :O)
best thanks
David, do you have a method for sharpening and honing a L-N concave spoke shave blade? I just acquired a nice used L-N spokeshave via EBay. The body of the tool is fine. The blade is badly chipped and a corner is snapped off. Is there any good methods for grinding, sharpening and honing a concave blade? Thank you!
Brian,
Concave blades not one of my specialities!
I think I would wrap AlOx paper round a suitable dowel. The blade is kept horizontal so that you can judge angle.
When the "grinding work is done, you can switch to a fine paper or slipstone, at about 2 degrees steeper, to polish the edge. Felt tip marker is helpful here.
David Charlesworth Thank you for your prompt reply. I understand the technique of using a similarly shaped dowel then wrap a suitable abrasive on it for grinding then, honing. I’m not familiar with the AIOx product you mentioned. Why do you recommend this abrasive? Where would I buy it?
I use Festool products and have a supply of their Granat abrasive only up to P320 for wood working. However Festool’s Granat goes up to 1,500 grit if memory serves me well). Then thinking a new L-N concave blade is $40, so I need to factor this in as well. Under the ‘what’s my shop time worth’ line of reasoning. Thank you!
Li-Nielsen sell suitable self adhesive, abrasive papers.
Aluminium oxide is just a tougher abrasive than the silicone carbide which is found on wet and dry paper.
David
I was told in my early days that sharp means the intersection of 2 planes, in away that tapers to 0 thickness; however, I have been able to use a blade that is less than 0 thickness; how close to 0 do you accept? Ha,ha, you don't know, do you?