Good deal! Just put the same engine in my 93 K1500. Had a few extra bucks to spend so it's cammed with Comp's 12-256-4 XE and a few more goodies. Tranny is done though, so it's getting built for the new engine. Vortec 350's are the perfect budget build for these old trucks.
That's a hard job and doing a video and doing a it alone is even harder. If anybody says anything different they don't know what they're talkin about good work thanks for sharing
Those manifolds and mechanical fan are running you of alot around 40hp. If you search around you can find stuff pretty cheap. I know on an s10 radiator you can use dodge intrepid dual electric fans freeing up around 16-20hp. Going with good long tubes will also free up between 15-20hp and getting rid of the egr will keep the intake and back of the intake valves clean. The carbon that builds up rather quickly essentially makes the intake runners smaller AND lumpy which decreases flow dramatically. Not to mention you are putting dead air back in with your fresh air and gas mixture which reduces the amount of combustible mixture in the cylinders.
You are correct. It seems I always have to do things the hard way 😁 I saw the drain plugs after the motor was out. Next engine swap I will do it the easier way 👍
Thanks. The fuel economy was not really better, as I was using a big carburator on the motor, however the power was way, way better. When I swapped the 3 speed auto transmission with a 4 speed auto, that did yield better fuel economy as it was a lot lower RPMs at highway speeds.
good job,, only thing u did different was the motor mounts, its standard to just remove the ONE center bolt on each side but hey u got her done an it looks good
Charles Wayne Johnson Jr Absolutely. I did not go that route because I did not have someone to help me, and was easy to lower the motor and slide it back to line up with trans going the route I did without having to hit the mounts just right while also lining up with the trans dowels.
4 роки тому
@@CalgaryBiker that's using they old head other than a hat rack lol
Cool you got a new motor but it's sad not to see what you could have had with the computer and SFI and that is just me I have had carburetor moters, 70 350 80 bb 85bb 87bb and now 96 350 with 297,00 and it runs like the day I bought it , this one in the video is on its death bed with that thing on top. Computer tunes three times per second and that is no FN around. But a new motor with vortex heads good runner!!
@@CalgaryBiker I see you used a bypass hose. I am going to drill the coolant passage into the passenger side head. I am also using older per emmision exhaust manifolds so I will have to raise the port roof on the manifolds to match the raised ports on the vortec heads. I have to pick a cam after I mock up the block and measure the piston to deck clearance
Good job but Seriously!??... 36 minutes of engine removal and reinstall AND NO STARTUP??? Wow, what a total let down. Would another 5-10 seconds have been too much to turn the key? Come on man...
Could be a pretty good indication of the final outcome! What you see is what you get with this one. Very poor eye to detail! I would keep the hood closed! 🤢🤣! Peace!
I don't think it's a vortex because the vortex is not mechanical fuel pump compatable. Looks like a TBI 350 to me. Vortex also has 3 humps on the end of the heads and this engine only has two which tells me it's not a vortex
The 87-95 sbc have the center intake bolts on a different angle. On the 96-01 vortec 350s they changed the intake bolt pattern again but made it so it used 8 straight down bolts and only in the corners, no bolts in the center so it requires a completely different manifold from the early sbc engines.
Thanks. You will need an intake manifold designed for a carburetor, and one that includes a hole for the distributor. Will need to add a distributor as well, and ensure the cam has the drive gear to drive the distributor.
I have a 72 Chevy 1 ton 350 manual 4spd with a 12 ft flatbed dumper. Stock engine with summit intake and performer 600. On truck when purchased. Gas milage at 3mpg. Im at 5000ft. Rejetted carb. Still dog. I was thinking of stuffing a cam in it. Then my son said he had a votec engine with 200k but still ran good. He says it revs up. I will think the swap over again. I wanted to use my exhaust. I know I will buy an intake and reuse the performer. But the exhaust issue, I would need a flywheel, might be better to just get heads for the engine I have. Either way I'm pulling the old dog out and putting in something bigger/powerful. I just dont want to deal with EFI. The old girl will haul 3-4 tons of gravel but barely pulls the hill. Not pulling enough air. I need a velicity stack and a hood scoop. Lol
Thanks for the video. I have 1977 k10 (4x4 - 1/2 ton) with a 350 engine and 4 speed. I am looking at purchasing a rebuilt vortec 5.7 liter. I'm wondering if the vortec will bolt up to the 4 speed trans. Any ideas on where I can that Information?
Not too sure. I have heard some people say 330 HP for those in stock form. All I know is it was a night and day difference compared to the old motor. Could light up the rear tires easily. I have since sold the truck to focus on motorcycles but I do miss the old girl.
Why go through all that exhaust manifold trouble in the first place when all you needed was a set of headers which would have added power and sounded great on that truck too.....
All about money. Got the ones I needed from the auto wrecker for $10. Headers would have cost hundreds of dollars. You are right though - headers would have been much better :-) Just could not afford them.
You simply use a older water pump the water flows the same no matter what the vortec pump turns backwards because of the serpentine belt system it came out with so you simply take it off and use a older pump
No idea. Will need to go with an electric fuel pump in that case. Can get one at a reasonable price, especially if lower pressure to feed a carburator.
@@CalgaryBiker I'm doing an opposite motor change . I have a 1997 cracked block , switching all the parts over to an old school block , I need to block off the fuel pump port . and my roller lifters won't work , I need old school roller lifters with bars . or I can put in a flat tappet cam and lifters that I have on my shelf. not sure what other problems I will have coming up . Just looking stuff over and hoping it works . your block has the port for fuel pump so maybe he used an old block like mine.
If you plan on keeping the fuel injection, then yes, you will need the computer to run it all. I set up mine old school, with a carburator and distributor.
@@raisinhellandpraisindale5640 Cool. Keep in mind also my project used an early vortec (1997) that came with throttle body injection originally. Have fun with your project.
How did you get that 3/8 hose fitting coming out of the intake manifold to the 5/8 T that goes to the water pump? Did you use a special fitting or something?
Was quite a while ago I did the project, but I believe I used a T joint that was also a reducer. Some folks plug that one from the intake manifold and that works for them. I just wanted to be alble to flow something through there. Thanks for watching.
I feel like im doing loser laps on the web, i've got a 90 3/4 ton suburban 4x4. The question i have, was the vortec swap worth it? It seems a 454/lq9/lm7 or a vortec 5700 all require a lot of trouble shooting. If i change anything i have to ditch the factory computer and tbi, but what is going to make the most sense $ for hp? I already NV4500 swapped the truck so i dont have to worry about trans computers or a kick down cable.
Awesome !!! , i will try the same with my 1979 monte carlo and change my 4.4l with an L98 (350cui) . Is there something special i have to take care about ?
Marco Koppensteiner I think you should be good assuming you have the TH350 transmission (not sure if the 200 version of the trans in some of the cars back then can handle the power of the new motor reliably). I went over the mods that I needed to do to make it work so be prepared for those issues to arise. You may also run across a few new ones yourself as well in that particular vehicle but it should not be a show stopper if you are comfortable doing the work. Good luck to you. Thanks for watching.
@@Blakep7704 Holes at either end of the old manifolds were too close together by about 1/16 of an inch. Somebody told me a manifold stretcher could be used to make them fit. For me it was faster and cheaper to get ones from the auto wrecker that fit straight away. Good luck with your project.
Ugh no!! That manual pump is far less complicated and will last twice as long as a electric fuel pump plus he doesn't need a pressure regulator with his manual pump now like he would with a electric pump but hey we live and learn I guess someone has told you that but they told you wrong
Yes eventually. Have a 62 GMC short bed side step truck I have owned since I was 19 years old. Want to rebuild the old motor from the 77, stroke it to 383, and use it to make a hot rod out of the 62. Someday. No time soon though.
I simply took off the dummy cover that was on the spot where the fuel pump would go, installed the driving rod and the pump, and it worked. Not sure what type of cam the engine rebuilder put into it though. He had me believe it was a stock replacement roller cam, but I do not know exactly so do not want to steer you wrong if not. Mine was also a very early Vortec (1997). I have heard the later ones do not even have the spot for the fuel pump.
The one I got had a cover plate over the spot for the fuel pump. Just removed it and installed. If yours does not have that, then you will need an electric fuel pump.
Did the mechanical fuel pump worked? Im doing the same thing and they told me i need to run a electric fuel pump because the camshaft will not push the push rod
The one I used had a cover plate over where the fuel pump goes. I removed the plate and installed the driver rod and pump and it worked. Later model Vortecs I do not know but 96 97s like mine work.
@@CalgaryBiker Any issues running the truck Partner? I'm browsing some forums and they are saying the stock cam's in these 96-99 Vortecs are not designed to run mechanical fuel pumps as they were designed to run electronically? make any sense?
@@TheDoctorShifty The vortec I got had a cover plate over where the fuel pump would go. I removed the cover pate, put in the driver rod from my old 350 that was in the truck, bolted on the fuel pump and it worked. Perhaps newer vortecs that would be a problem, but the 96 97 vintage I have it worked for me.
Also I got the motor from a rebuider so I do not know the exact camshaft he used when he rebuilt the motor. From what I recall he used a factory roller spec one not a performance one but I can not be certain of that. All I can say for sure is mine works with a mechanical fuel pump.
From the factory yes it was. I installed on it a standard intake manifold and a carburator and a traditional HEI style distributor. Using a newer motor in an old school way.
Hello my motor is a work in progress. But i have another question. Do you have the number or the model of your intake?? And that intake work good?? Thanks
It was I believe a Weiland aluminum dual plane intake. Came with the motor from the rebuilder so it may have been quite old. Not sure of model number. It worked great. With the aluminum carburator I used it did not like the cold weather much though. Preferred to run warm. Keep in mind I am in Canada so cold is really cold 😁
Hello Donnie. No I did not. I did not need it, as went with a carburetor and old school distributor with external ignition. Ignition box used the magnetic pickups on the distributor the same way the factory ignition did back in the day.
Mine just went right in so I do not know why yours would not work. Sorry. I only have experience with the vortec I used. Perhaps you have a newer version on the motor.?
Use the original file wheel and both ride to the back of the notary it will fit I have put a 16 put a fortune motor and a 67 Camaro hadn't didn't have to change the flex plate I mean I tried to ship from the other mode and it both dragged on
I used one of the bolts that held the power steering pump on and another that held part of the alternator bracket since I removed them before pulling the motor.
Hello. Good job. But i have afew question. Maybe you can help me with that. Your block is a vortec? How did you install the gas pump on it? And i buy cam for chevy 350 old. Do you know if can i put that cam in one vortec engine? Thanks alot.
My block had a cover plate over the fuel pump opening, so I just removed it and installed a pump. Without this, an electric fuel pump would be needed. For the cam, I am not sure, however the engine rebuilder I bought the motor from said they all had factory roller cams, and mine had a stock spec replacement. As I understand, you may need to be careful with the amount of lift on the cam as the vortec heads may not handle a lot of extra lift without modification. Have fun with your project.
Hi, I'm currently swapping a carbed vortec into my 77. What did you do about the crankshaft position sensor (i think it is). Did u swap timing chain covers or keep the vortec one and just plug it or something? Great video by the way. It's helped alot!
The motor I got had a traditional timing cover installed with no sensor hole in it. They are pretty inexpensive. Who needs another potential oil leak point afterall. Thanks for watching.
Ryan Tollenaar an older style timing cover will bolt to the vortec block you might have to drill and tap the two middle holes on your block for the timing cover.Because they weren’t there when I swapped a vortec to carb but I’ve been told it depends on the year of the block wether it has the holes the earlier motors are supposed to have them (mine was 1999 engine) and you will need to use a pre 1995 damper because the vortec one is to short without the reluctor wheel behind it. I used the damper and timing cover from 1990ish tbi 350. Hope this helps
This is the style I had on mine performanceparts1.com/intake-manifold-for-vortec-350-heads-sbc-chevy-dual-plane-satin-aluminum/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pCVBhCFARIsAGMxhAfdg5CwBZRHQdfX8ZM7uMSCbcXBIKS3xFelFV51GXM7dD5h334LOlkaAkheEALw_wcB
The early Vortecs (I know for sure 1996 and 1997 models) actually still have the spot on the block for a mechanical fuel pump. It is simply covered by a delete plate. Easy enough to remove for the pump install. I even used the same mechanical fuel pump drive rod from my old 350. It fit in and worked perfectly.
PLEASEtell me what torque converter you used or flex plate your using!! I thought about using the flex plate from my old 350 and bolting it to the vortec but someone said the crankshaft bolt pattern is different. HELP! I have a th350 btw
Kevin Nelson Sorry for the late response. Have been doing a transmission swap. Video to come. The torque converter is an M7456. It also has numbers 7R7 and 1B7 on it. Hope this helps. Yes you need a different flex plate for the vortec. Hole in center is different. Not sure about bolt pattern. Never noticed that.
The specs I could find are: Flexplate for Chevy 350 Automatic 168 tooth external balance for 1986-2002 305 and 350 with 1 pc Rear Main Seal. OD: 14.13" Teeth: 168 Center Hold Dia: 2.00" (appx.) Balance: External (with weight)
Been there done that but I kept serpintein belt set up alt powers steering AC water pump fan fit like glove electric fuel pump ready to rock no problem
I have an originally carbureted c10 with a 350 I’m getting a tbi 350 for it but would like to do carb swap. Never seen swap a carb back on . Basically what all will I need to do to put the carb on the tbi motor and get it running in the truck? Can I use the distributor from my carbed 350?
Should just need an intake manifold built for a carb, a carb, and a distributor, and it will run old school that way as long as the cam in the motor is geared to drive the distributor. Follow firing order original to the motor. Electric fuel pump will feed the carb. Will need to dial in timing by feel, as will not be external timing markings to use with a light. Can use paint marker to mark TDC as a starting point on visible area up front to help. Have fun with your project.
@@CalgaryBiker thanks for the help you gained a sub today!! I figured the intake manifold from the carb 350 would mount right up but previous owner has done some work to the motor and has different heads . I’ve kinda been looking for recommendations for heads but everyone swears by the vortec heads. I know there the best flowing set of gm heads for the 5.7 but it’s kinda over done . Would you recommend just finding a decent set of vortec heads?
@@csfghjt5564 Thanks for the sub. I must say I agree with the people recommending Vortec heads. You can get a good set for cheap at an auto wrecker and they make much better power. The only thing with them is if you want an aggressive cam, they may need modification for increased lift. With a regular cam though, they can not be beat for bang for the buck. They take a different intake than the old school heads. Just depends on your goals for the build. Have a good day.
Did you use the L31 harmonic balancer up front or your original? I'm doing an L31 swap into a 92 and wasnt sure if I had to use my original TBI balancer or the L31 balancer since the Vortec L31 balancer is thinner
The motor I got from the builder had the balancer already installed. It was the same dimensions as the one on the old motor. The old accessory pulley installed directly onto it and lined up perfectly with the original power steering pump and alternator as well as the new old school water pump. I would imagine you would use the balancer that matches up with the accessories you are installing. If you are planning to use the vortec specific single belt driven accessory system then the narrower balancer will likely be needed. I don't know with certainty but that would be my assumption. Thanks for watching.
Calgary Biker I'm putting it in a 92 K1500, which also runs on the single serpentine belt system. I'm most likely going to have to use the harmonic balancer from my TBI L05 350 since I know it lines up with my accessories; running the narrower L31 balancer would more than likely give me line up issues with my accessories.
@@willlivingston9944 Sounds like the right call to me. When you think about it, the balancer funtions like a flywheel smoothing out the rotation of the motor. Unless you are racing or doing some crazy high rpm application I do not see why one versus another would matter as long as it fts on and is meant for a 350. The accessories lining up on the other hand is critical. Good luck on your project. Sounds cool.
@Will - I would like to see what you came up with for that ‘92! I got a ‘94 that would like this swap. Thank you @Calgary Biker for the walk through. Great info and answered some questions I had about routing the coolant bypass
Thanks. No idea that tool existed. I want to get headers eventually. The junk yard manifolds were a quick and easy solution. It is my daily driver so getting it on the road fast was a priority.
U did the moter mount wrong all u need to do is the one bolt each side. Its all the set up from the old new. The only time u torque converter would be a problem if u was doing LSswap
Brian Fleischer One specked for a 1977 350. Direct replacement to original one. It bolted right up and allowed me to use all the original accessory drive pieces. Just needs a little creative routing for the extra water out of the intake manifold.
Your 305 stuff will work just the same on a 350 the blocks are exactly the same out the outside and inside the only difference between a 305 and a 350 is the 305 has a smaller boar
Jaime Huerta I used the stock style gasket for a 1997 Chevy - basic aftermarket brand from Auto Value Parts. It is a combination of a couple different kinds of plastic. It is designed to seal with pretty light torque specs - over tightening is a problem. Just needed Permatex for the China walls at either end like normal.
Jaime Huerta I gapped them at 0.048 (48 thou). The vortec factory spec called for 60 thou but I figured I had a cheap chinese ignition versus the original that would have come with the fuel injection etc... I have since installed an MSD coil and external ignition box so now I have them at the 60 thou spec. Hope that helps.
jerry richter Very true. Because I was alone with no helper doing it the way I did allowed me to lower the motor and slide it back to mate with the transmission super easy. Plus it was my first time doing a job like this. Good learning experience. Thanks for watching.
Nice install. But heater hoses aren’t that serious. U could have just stuck a plug in that extra one u had an not had all that rats nest above your water pump. First thing u see when u open the hood but nice install
Glad to see someone local on UA-cam. Great pointers here, thank you! Will come in handy for my future swap.
Right on. Thanks for watching. Have fun with your build.
Holy hell this is exactly what I am doing in my 76. I cant find any info on this swap, then I found this. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Did you end up completing your swap? I'm trying to do my 75 stepside 😂
Its a 350 for a 350, not that complex
@@guidoguido8677 my GMC hadthe old straight 6 in it
@@devanstevens5178 gotcha. I put a vortec 350 in my outback, so im sure you can figure out
Good deal! Just put the same engine in my 93 K1500. Had a few extra bucks to spend so it's cammed with Comp's 12-256-4 XE and a few more goodies.
Tranny is done though, so it's getting built for the new engine. Vortec 350's are the perfect budget build for these old trucks.
Right on. Have fun with your project.
22:13 I like that "abracadabra", and the motors in. I wish everything was like that.
Damn youtube recommendations coming in clutch. Im from calgary too
Right on 👍
That's a hard job and doing a video and doing a it alone is even harder. If anybody says anything different they don't know what they're talkin about good work thanks for sharing
Thanks. Much appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Gravy right there my man I've done engine swaps in squares in 7 hrs. Simple task nothing special here.
Great job and explanation of the process! Thank you
Wesley House Thanks for watching and the comment. Much appreciated.
Looks nice man! Can't wait to see you finish this baby
Thanks bud. Much appreciated. Need to do a few hillbilly floor patches on it now before the snow flies .
Awesome, hard worker bro, you even altered your stairs for your project. Keep it up 👍
Thanks. Thanks for watching.
Those manifolds and mechanical fan are running you of alot around 40hp. If you search around you can find stuff pretty cheap. I know on an s10 radiator you can use dodge intrepid dual electric fans freeing up around 16-20hp. Going with good long tubes will also free up between 15-20hp and getting rid of the egr will keep the intake and back of the intake valves clean. The carbon that builds up rather quickly essentially makes the intake runners smaller AND lumpy which decreases flow dramatically. Not to mention you are putting dead air back in with your fresh air and gas mixture which reduces the amount of combustible mixture in the cylinders.
Fair enough. I definitely want some headers eventually. I am on a super tight budget. Thanks for the comment.
Only thing missing was a start up
Gotta hear that bad boy run
Thanks Dude you give me hope,I have a 78 c10 Ready for a new engine.
Right on. Have fun with your project. Thanks for watching.
Helped me alot. Thank you
How in the hell did u put the mechanical pump on a vortech
It was a very early model. Just had a cover over where the fuel pump should be. Most later models, need to use an electric fuel pump.
All you have to do is flip the cover over on that are cleaner and you'll get all the airflow you need
Thats how I have mine. And the hood still clears.
Good job look awesome!!!
Jason Hattrich Thanks.
one good way to completely drain the block without making a mess is to unbolt the 2 coolant plugs on the very bottom of the block.
You are correct. It seems I always have to do things the hard way 😁 I saw the drain plugs after the motor was out. Next engine swap I will do it the easier way 👍
Thanks for the great video! Did you notice any improvement in fuel economy with the new engine over the old one?
Thanks. The fuel economy was not really better, as I was using a big carburator on the motor, however the power was way, way better. When I swapped the 3 speed auto transmission with a 4 speed auto, that did yield better fuel economy as it was a lot lower RPMs at highway speeds.
good job,, only thing u did different was the motor mounts, its standard to just remove the ONE center bolt on each side but hey u got her done an it looks good
Charles Wayne Johnson Jr Absolutely. I did not go that route because I did not have someone to help me, and was easy to lower the motor and slide it back to line up with trans going the route I did without having to hit the mounts just right while also lining up with the trans dowels.
@@CalgaryBiker that's using they old head other than a hat rack lol
Greetings from America! 🔧🇺🇸
Good day. Thanks for watching.
Cool you got a new motor but it's sad not to see what you could have had with the computer and SFI and that is just me I have had carburetor moters, 70 350
80 bb 85bb 87bb and now 96 350 with 297,00 and it runs like the day I bought it , this one in the video is on its death bed with that thing on top.
Computer tunes three times per second and that is no FN around.
But a new motor with vortex heads good runner!!
My swap is an 4 bolt crate motor block with 906 vortec heads, flat top Pistons and Edelbrock AVS 2
Right on. Enjoy your project.
@@CalgaryBiker I see you used a bypass hose. I am going to drill the coolant passage into the passenger side head. I am also using older per emmision exhaust manifolds so I will have to raise the port roof on the manifolds to match the raised ports on the vortec heads. I have to pick a cam after I mock up the block and measure the piston to deck clearance
@@michaelvrooman5681 Very cool. You have a lot more skill than I do that is for sure. Sounds like you will make some nice power when you are all done.
well done, for a guy that seemingly hasn't spent much time working under too many engine hoods
Good job but Seriously!??...
36 minutes of engine removal and reinstall AND NO STARTUP???
Wow, what a total let down. Would another 5-10 seconds have been too much to turn the key?
Come on man...
Could be a pretty good indication of the final outcome! What you see is what you get with this one. Very poor eye to detail! I would keep the hood closed! 🤢🤣! Peace!
Yeaaaaaa I was thinking the same thing
Ditto
What year motor
I don't think it's a vortex because the vortex is not mechanical fuel pump compatable. Looks like a TBI 350 to me. Vortex also has 3 humps on the end of the heads and this engine only has two which tells me it's not a vortex
did you use a first gen small block balancer or a 96-99 vortec balancer?
Great video hello from South Texas
Brian Ortiz Thanks. Hello right back at ya from Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Can you help me find guy you got the engine from so I could buy one too?
I want to make this swap on my chevy c20 1971 I have two virtec engines so gona try hope tha chassis is the same wide
Sounds cool. Have fun with your project.
Why did u do about the coolant bypass on the vortec heads
In 1987 gm changed angle on intake bolts u could use the old intakes but it requires modifications
The 87-95 sbc have the center intake bolts on a different angle. On the 96-01 vortec 350s they changed the intake bolt pattern again but made it so it used 8 straight down bolts and only in the corners, no bolts in the center so it requires a completely different manifold from the early sbc engines.
Nice video...do you have any information on the swap from fuel injection to carb on the intake manifold?
Thanks. You will need an intake manifold designed for a carburetor, and one that includes a hole for the distributor. Will need to add a distributor as well, and ensure the cam has the drive gear to drive the distributor.
Very goid video!
Thanks. Much appreciated.
How did you install the mechanical fuel pump
Great video all in all
Bill Ward Thanks for watching 😀
I have a 72 Chevy 1 ton 350 manual 4spd with a 12 ft flatbed dumper. Stock engine with summit intake and performer 600. On truck when purchased. Gas milage at 3mpg. Im at 5000ft. Rejetted carb. Still dog. I was thinking of stuffing a cam in it. Then my son said he had a votec engine with 200k but still ran good. He says it revs up. I will think the swap over again. I wanted to use my exhaust. I know I will buy an intake and reuse the performer. But the exhaust issue, I would need a flywheel, might be better to just get heads for the engine I have. Either way I'm pulling the old dog out and putting in something bigger/powerful. I just dont want to deal with EFI. The old girl will haul 3-4 tons of gravel but barely pulls the hill. Not pulling enough air. I need a velicity stack and a hood scoop. Lol
Thanks for the video.
I have 1977 k10 (4x4 - 1/2 ton) with a 350 engine and 4 speed. I am looking at purchasing a rebuilt vortec 5.7 liter. I'm wondering if the vortec will bolt up to the 4 speed trans. Any ideas on where I can that Information?
What year did you get your motor from I thought there was no manual fuel pump opening and rod from the 96-2000 vortec motors ?
I thoy same
Thought
How much horsepower does the vortec have ?
Not too sure. I have heard some people say 330 HP for those in stock form. All I know is it was a night and day difference compared to the old motor. Could light up the rear tires easily. I have since sold the truck to focus on motorcycles but I do miss the old girl.
Can I use the stock intake to turn it carburated?
Is that the temp sensor next to the thermostat housing?
What flex plate did you use? The old one or what one
Why go through all that exhaust manifold trouble in the first place when all you needed was a set of headers which would have added power and sounded great on that truck too.....
All about money. Got the ones I needed from the auto wrecker for $10. Headers would have cost hundreds of dollars. You are right though - headers would have been much better :-) Just could not afford them.
Calgary Biker you can find SBC headers literally all over the internet for under $100.
@@carsonbates2546 Yeah you can find tires for insanely cheap too...oh yeah but their complete junk.
If its vortec water pump was reversed,how are u doin this with v belts,when this is serpentine engine
You simply use a older water pump the water flows the same no matter what the vortec pump turns backwards because of the serpentine belt system it came out with so you simply take it off and use a older pump
Yankees are funny folks. He cracks me up
I did this to my 89 GMC
. better than the les chap. My engine only had 65000 miles
Ty i watched further and water pump was killing me so ty ty ty
Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching.
Great job. 👍
Thanks. Thanks for watching.
MY 97 VORTEC BLOCK DOES NOT HAVE THE OPEN SPOT FOR A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP , HOW COME YOURS DOES ??
No idea. Will need to go with an electric fuel pump in that case. Can get one at a reasonable price, especially if lower pressure to feed a carburator.
@@CalgaryBiker I'm doing an opposite motor change . I have a 1997 cracked block , switching all the parts over to an old school block , I need to block off the fuel pump port . and my roller lifters won't work , I need old school roller lifters with bars . or I can put in a flat tappet cam and lifters that I have on my shelf. not sure what other problems I will have coming up . Just looking stuff over and hoping it works . your block has the port for fuel pump so maybe he used an old block like mine.
@@howtoguroo2686 That may very well be. Sounds like a cool project you are working on. Have fun with it.
No start up?🙄
I'm thinking about do this with my 83 suburban but my biggest question is would you need the computer be with it
If you plan on keeping the fuel injection, then yes, you will need the computer to run it all. I set up mine old school, with a carburator and distributor.
@@CalgaryBiker ok I was planning on doing the carb and the distributor anyway thanks
@@raisinhellandpraisindale5640 Cool. Keep in mind also my project used an early vortec (1997) that came with throttle body injection originally. Have fun with your project.
How did you get that 3/8 hose fitting coming out of the intake manifold to the 5/8 T that goes to the water pump? Did you use a special fitting or something?
Was quite a while ago I did the project, but I believe I used a T joint that was also a reducer. Some folks plug that one from the intake manifold and that works for them. I just wanted to be alble to flow something through there. Thanks for watching.
I feel like im doing loser laps on the web, i've got a 90 3/4 ton suburban 4x4. The question i have, was the vortec swap worth it? It seems a 454/lq9/lm7 or a vortec 5700 all require a lot of trouble shooting. If i change anything i have to ditch the factory computer and tbi, but what is going to make the most sense $ for hp? I already NV4500 swapped the truck so i dont have to worry about trans computers or a kick down cable.
Looks good,,but you should have used the eldebrock AVS carburetor,,,I used it on my vortex in my 45 pickup and man she came alive.
The Qfd is completely comperable. to the Edelbrock. I've run both and when tuned correctly the Qfd can outperform the Edel.
Awesome !!! , i will try the same with my 1979 monte carlo and change my 4.4l with an L98 (350cui) .
Is there something special i have to take care about ?
Marco Koppensteiner I think you should be good assuming you have the TH350 transmission (not sure if the 200 version of the trans in some of the cars back then can handle the power of the new motor reliably). I went over the mods that I needed to do to make it work so be prepared for those issues to arise. You may also run across a few new ones yourself as well in that particular vehicle but it should not be a show stopper if you are comfortable doing the work. Good luck to you. Thanks for watching.
You can block the plug at the intake and just use the hose off the water pump
Kevin, So the exhaust manifold had to be changed to the vortec?
Yes. I found the ones from the old motor were just slightly too small.
@@CalgaryBiker What exactly was to small?
@@Blakep7704 Holes at either end of the old manifolds were too close together by about 1/16 of an inch. Somebody told me a manifold stretcher could be used to make them fit. For me it was faster and cheaper to get ones from the auto wrecker that fit straight away. Good luck with your project.
@@CalgaryBiker What did you do with the hole in the timing cover for the crank sensor?
@@Blakep7704 I had an early version I guess as there was no hole in the cover to plug on mine.
u may want to invest in an electric fuel pump (hooked up to ur ignition) with that carb later
Ugh no!! That manual pump is far less complicated and will last twice as long as a electric fuel pump plus he doesn't need a pressure regulator with his manual pump now like he would with a electric pump but hey we live and learn I guess someone has told you that but they told you wrong
are you going to rebuild your old motor
Yes eventually. Have a 62 GMC short bed side step truck I have owned since I was 19 years old. Want to rebuild the old motor from the 77, stroke it to 383, and use it to make a hot rod out of the 62. Someday. No time soon though.
Did you have to change the cam to go with the mechanical fuel pump or did you just put the fuel pump on
I simply took off the dummy cover that was on the spot where the fuel pump would go, installed the driving rod and the pump, and it worked. Not sure what type of cam the engine rebuilder put into it though. He had me believe it was a stock replacement roller cam, but I do not know exactly so do not want to steer you wrong if not. Mine was also a very early Vortec (1997). I have heard the later ones do not even have the spot for the fuel pump.
You use the 77 distributor in to vortex engine.
Technically yes. Used a new aftermarket version of essentially the original type of HEI distributor.
Hey where did you get your motor mounts I am in the process of doing one right now
Used the same ones that were on the old 350 I removed.
How did you use the mechanical fuel pump on the vortex engine??
The one I got had a cover plate over the spot for the fuel pump. Just removed it and installed. If yours does not have that, then you will need an electric fuel pump.
Cool project I'm doing the same.
Did the mechanical fuel pump worked? Im doing the same thing and they told me i need to run a electric fuel pump because the camshaft will not push the push rod
The one I used had a cover plate over where the fuel pump goes. I removed the plate and installed the driver rod and pump and it worked. Later model Vortecs I do not know but 96 97s like mine work.
@@CalgaryBiker Any issues running the truck Partner? I'm browsing some forums and they are saying the stock cam's in these 96-99 Vortecs are not designed to run mechanical fuel pumps as they were designed to run electronically? make any sense?
@@TheDoctorShifty The vortec I got had a cover plate over where the fuel pump would go. I removed the cover pate, put in the driver rod from my old 350 that was in the truck, bolted on the fuel pump and it worked. Perhaps newer vortecs that would be a problem, but the 96 97 vintage I have it worked for me.
Also I got the motor from a rebuider so I do not know the exact camshaft he used when he rebuilt the motor. From what I recall he used a factory roller spec one not a performance one but I can not be certain of that. All I can say for sure is mine works with a mechanical fuel pump.
Still drive this? Got same year c10 consider ing same swap in radisson sk
Right on. I sold mine to a fellow from Lethbridge actually. He is going to continue on with the restoration. Love those squares.
Sweet dude!
Was the vortex block fuel injected
From the factory yes it was. I installed on it a standard intake manifold and a carburator and a traditional HEI style distributor. Using a newer motor in an old school way.
Hello my motor is a work in progress. But i have another question. Do you have the number or the model of your intake?? And that intake work good?? Thanks
It was I believe a Weiland aluminum dual plane intake. Came with the motor from the rebuilder so it may have been quite old. Not sure of model number. It worked great. With the aluminum carburator I used it did not like the cold weather much though. Preferred to run warm. Keep in mind I am in Canada so cold is really cold 😁
Did you have to do any with the crank sensor
Hello Donnie. No I did not. I did not need it, as went with a carburetor and old school distributor with external ignition. Ignition box used the magnetic pickups on the distributor the same way the factory ignition did back in the day.
@@CalgaryBiker cool I wanna put on of these engines in my 83 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4
@@donniewagner4657 Right on 👍
where did you get the throttle cable bracket??
Got a bracket from a 97 Chev truck from the auto wrecker, then did cutting and welding to get it to fit right. Some mild fabrication required.
What did u do with the alt
Used the original bracket from the old motor to mount it, as with the power steering pump.
@@CalgaryBiker oh u didn't go new school with the belt or did the alt bolt into vortec set uo
@@davidfirth9342 No. I just used the old setup on the new engine.
@@CalgaryBiker awww old set up robs hp
So did you get better mileage out of the new motor? Looks good
Yes I did. The old motor yielded around 12 mph. The new one yielded just over 14 mpg (all city driving).
How did u put the fuel pump push rod in cause I can’t put my pushrod in from my 84 Chevy
Mine just went right in so I do not know why yours would not work. Sorry. I only have experience with the vortec I used. Perhaps you have a newer version on the motor.?
I had to use and electric pump
Use the original file wheel and both ride to the back of the notary it will fit I have put a 16 put a fortune motor and a 67 Camaro hadn't didn't have to change the flex plate I mean I tried to ship from the other mode and it both dragged on
What size are the bolts in the engine cylinder head to hold the chain on
I used one of the bolts that held the power steering pump on and another that held part of the alternator bracket since I removed them before pulling the motor.
Fuckin funny. Deffinatly different then anything ive ever seen with this swap
What Caine of distribuitor is it? And how do u install the mechanical fuel pump on that motor?
Fuel pump = take out 2 bolts, take off pump, install new pump with same 2 bolts.
Hello. Good job. But i have afew question. Maybe you can help me with that. Your block is a vortec? How did you install the gas pump on it? And i buy cam for chevy 350 old. Do you know if can i put that cam in one vortec engine? Thanks alot.
My block had a cover plate over the fuel pump opening, so I just removed it and installed a pump. Without this, an electric fuel pump would be needed. For the cam, I am not sure, however the engine rebuilder I bought the motor from said they all had factory roller cams, and mine had a stock spec replacement. As I understand, you may need to be careful with the amount of lift on the cam as the vortec heads may not handle a lot of extra lift without modification. Have fun with your project.
@@CalgaryBiker thank you 👍👍👌
Hi, I'm currently swapping a carbed vortec into my 77. What did you do about the crankshaft position sensor (i think it is). Did u swap timing chain covers or keep the vortec one and just plug it or something?
Great video by the way. It's helped alot!
The motor I got had a traditional timing cover installed with no sensor hole in it. They are pretty inexpensive. Who needs another potential oil leak point afterall. Thanks for watching.
Okay good to know. Hopefully the one off the old engine will swap over. Thanks for the help
Ryan Tollenaar an older style timing cover will bolt to the vortec block you might have to drill and tap the two middle holes on your block for the timing cover.Because they weren’t there when I swapped a vortec to carb but I’ve been told it depends on the year of the block wether it has the holes the earlier motors are supposed to have them (mine was 1999 engine) and you will need to use a pre 1995 damper because the vortec one is to short without the reluctor wheel behind it. I used the damper and timing cover from 1990ish tbi 350. Hope this helps
@@chrisperkins7067 thanks thats good to know. So you say pre 95 damper, the one from the old 350 im pulling would work then, right?
Ryan Tollenaar yes one from pre 1995 should work
nice bro help me with number intake or reference bro
This is the style I had on mine performanceparts1.com/intake-manifold-for-vortec-350-heads-sbc-chevy-dual-plane-satin-aluminum/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pCVBhCFARIsAGMxhAfdg5CwBZRHQdfX8ZM7uMSCbcXBIKS3xFelFV51GXM7dD5h334LOlkaAkheEALw_wcB
How did you get the mechanical fuel pump to work on that block?
The early Vortecs (I know for sure 1996 and 1997 models) actually still have the spot on the block for a mechanical fuel pump. It is simply covered by a delete plate. Easy enough to remove for the pump install. I even used the same mechanical fuel pump drive rod from my old 350. It fit in and worked perfectly.
@@refwoody Would it not be easier/better in the long run to go with an electric pump and just keep the cam in?
PLEASEtell me what torque converter you used or flex plate your using!! I thought about using the flex plate from my old 350 and bolting it to the vortec but someone said the crankshaft bolt pattern is different. HELP! I have a th350 btw
Kevin Nelson Sorry for the late response. Have been doing a transmission swap. Video to come. The torque converter is an M7456. It also has numbers 7R7 and 1B7 on it. Hope this helps. Yes you need a different flex plate for the vortec. Hole in center is different. Not sure about bolt pattern. Never noticed that.
use one from a 1987 or newer one piece rear main seal style,the pre 1986 old style will not work.thats it!!!
The specs I could find are: Flexplate for Chevy 350 Automatic 168 tooth external balance for 1986-2002 305 and 350 with 1 pc Rear Main Seal.
OD: 14.13"
Teeth: 168
Center Hold Dia: 2.00" (appx.)
Balance: External (with weight)
Can you run just a regular carb
Sure. As long as you pair it with an old school type distributor (pre fuel injection) so no computer needed.
Calgary Biker I’m looking into one with 345 hp and it comes with intake and a carb and everything so I got off of the vortec idea thanks tho
Ok thank you .
Been there done that but I kept serpintein belt set up alt powers steering AC water pump fan fit like glove electric fuel pump ready to rock no problem
Right on 👍
I have an originally carbureted c10 with a 350 I’m getting a tbi 350 for it but would like to do carb swap. Never seen swap a carb back on . Basically what all will I need to do to put the carb on the tbi motor and get it running in the truck? Can I use the distributor from my carbed 350?
Should just need an intake manifold built for a carb, a carb, and a distributor, and it will run old school that way as long as the cam in the motor is geared to drive the distributor. Follow firing order original to the motor. Electric fuel pump will feed the carb. Will need to dial in timing by feel, as will not be external timing markings to use with a light. Can use paint marker to mark TDC as a starting point on visible area up front to help. Have fun with your project.
@@CalgaryBiker thanks for the help you gained a sub today!! I figured the intake manifold from the carb 350 would mount right up but previous owner has done some work to the motor and has different heads . I’ve kinda been looking for recommendations for heads but everyone swears by the vortec heads. I know there the best flowing set of gm heads for the 5.7 but it’s kinda over done . Would you recommend just finding a decent set of vortec heads?
@@csfghjt5564 Thanks for the sub. I must say I agree with the people recommending Vortec heads. You can get a good set for cheap at an auto wrecker and they make much better power. The only thing with them is if you want an aggressive cam, they may need modification for increased lift. With a regular cam though, they can not be beat for bang for the buck. They take a different intake than the old school heads. Just depends on your goals for the build. Have a good day.
Did you use the L31 harmonic balancer up front or your original? I'm doing an L31 swap into a 92 and wasnt sure if I had to use my original TBI balancer or the L31 balancer since the Vortec L31 balancer is thinner
The motor I got from the builder had the balancer already installed. It was the same dimensions as the one on the old motor. The old accessory pulley installed directly onto it and lined up perfectly with the original power steering pump and alternator as well as the new old school water pump. I would imagine you would use the balancer that matches up with the accessories you are installing. If you are planning to use the vortec specific single belt driven accessory system then the narrower balancer will likely be needed. I don't know with certainty but that would be my assumption. Thanks for watching.
Calgary Biker I'm putting it in a 92 K1500, which also runs on the single serpentine belt system. I'm most likely going to have to use the harmonic balancer from my TBI L05 350 since I know it lines up with my accessories; running the narrower L31 balancer would more than likely give me line up issues with my accessories.
@@willlivingston9944 Sounds like the right call to me. When you think about it, the balancer funtions like a flywheel smoothing out the rotation of the motor. Unless you are racing or doing some crazy high rpm application I do not see why one versus another would matter as long as it fts on and is meant for a 350. The accessories lining up on the other hand is critical. Good luck on your project. Sounds cool.
Calgary Biker thank you sir. I may do a small documentation on the build
@Will - I would like to see what you came up with for that ‘92! I got a ‘94 that would like this swap. Thank you @Calgary Biker for the walk through. Great info and answered some questions I had about routing the coolant bypass
The manifolds are not different you need a stretcher because the shrink the stretcher or spreader will fix that
Thanks. No idea that tool existed. I want to get headers eventually. The junk yard manifolds were a quick and easy solution. It is my daily driver so getting it on the road fast was a priority.
U did the moter mount wrong all u need to do is the one bolt each side. Its all the set up from the old new. The only time u torque converter would be a problem if u was doing LSswap
What water pump did you use?
Brian Fleischer One specked for a 1977 350. Direct replacement to original one. It bolted right up and allowed me to use all the original accessory drive pieces. Just needs a little creative routing for the extra water out of the intake manifold.
Do you know if I can take some of the stuff if of my 305 and it on the front? (I.e. oil pump, water pump, pulleys, etc.)
I am not sure. Have never had a 305 equipped vehicle. Sorry.
Your 305 stuff will work just the same on a 350 the blocks are exactly the same out the outside and inside the only difference between a 305 and a 350 is the 305 has a smaller boar
What flexplate did you use specifically? Looking to do the same swap on my '76 Blazer and need to know which flexplate to buy to continue
The builder gave me the flex plate, so I do not know the exact specs. He did mention that it was different than the pre vortec one though.
Flexplate hole has nothing to do with fitment to the torque converter, torque converter fits into the crankshaft.
Loved thd video but i genuinely disturbed there was no start up
What intake gasket are you running
Jaime Huerta I used the stock style gasket for a 1997 Chevy - basic aftermarket brand from Auto Value Parts. It is a combination of a couple different kinds of plastic. It is designed to seal with pretty light torque specs - over tightening is a problem. Just needed Permatex for the China walls at either end like normal.
"engine hood"
Ive heard engine hood before.. But never 160 times in two minutes..
David Jessee It was actually 162 😂
163 with the echo
What gap on plugs
Jaime Huerta I gapped them at 0.048 (48 thou). The vortec factory spec called for 60 thou but I figured I had a cheap chinese ignition versus the original that would have come with the fuel injection etc... I have since installed an MSD coil and external ignition box so now I have them at the 60 thou spec. Hope that helps.
when removing motor mounts all you have to do is remove one long bolt
jerry richter Very true. Because I was alone with no helper doing it the way I did allowed me to lower the motor and slide it back to mate with the transmission super easy. Plus it was my first time doing a job like this. Good learning experience. Thanks for watching.
Nice install. But heater hoses aren’t that serious. U could have just stuck a plug in that extra one u had an not had all that rats nest above your water pump. First thing u see when u open the hood but nice install
Fair enough. Thanks for watching.
Edlelbock 750 will work on it
Cool. It is hard to find inexpensive carbs in my area. Hard to save a buck.
To cherry pick the hood, I'd have used or made strap slings easy peezy.