You need radiator ducting to make it work. Air will take the path of least resistance and air just blowing towards the cooler doesn't do much if it can go around the radiator. There needs to be pressure difference between the front and back side of the radiator to overcome the radiator core resistance and get air flowing through the core.
Armchair mechanic here... did you make sure there were no air bubbles in the cooling system. I did a hair puller one time with a Dodge Intrepid with the V6 that was full of coolant at the radiator cap and had a good thermostat but would still overheat, no problem with the radiator either. There are air bleeders that look like brake bleeders built into that engine at a couple of places on that engine. Once I managed to get all the air bubbles out through those bleeders there was no more overheating problem... just sayn'!! Since that machine looks like one big experiment there may need to be a little re-engineering with a couple of air bubble bleeders added to key places on that coolant system!! Later men, gotta go for a scooter ride.😁
Dual radiators with individual fans relocated behind the scoops would probably fix it. Cool vehicle, though. It's always good to see the two of you back together again.
What it really needs is a total strip down, various reengineering of major components and a better paint job. This patchwork fix approach is just making it look like someone's cobbled together backyard project. I wouldn't mind seeing this project turned into a series.
The problem is ALWAYS EXHAUSTING hot air! I've learned this through finding passive ways to cool rooms and computers. You NEED to exhaust the hot air so cool air can replace it.
I recently found this page after a break up and decided to delete social media and spend my time learning about restoring classic motorcycles and take my mind off things. since finding your channel it’s been such a positive thing to start and end my day watching! Keep up the amazing content and I can’t wait to see more project! Thank you Craig and the team!
The cooling is maybe simpler than you think. You can move the radiator itself to another place. Yes, remove the fluid, length the hoses, refill. But then you have severa options for it. Use 2 smaller radiators, one on each intake hole. or move the radiator "under" the floor, so it will get straight wind. Or make a new hole in the underbody with a 3rd scoop, and put a funnel-hose straight to the rad, and let the side ones cool the rest of the engine.
@@WoNkY_DoG How do you want to handle this with the sliding cockpit roofpart? No, the only way are the sides and from under the floor. I have seen enough videos from guys, who swaped Subaru engines into old VW Busses. They all do it with the radiator somewhere under the floor. Some beetle idiots put the radiator on the rear seat, but that is the rookie solution. Another scoop under the thing, lead the airflow straight to the radiator, the side intakes do the rest of the engine. Best solution. And another intake somewhere in the front for the passenger. And the rear seat, remove it and make a "Munk" out of it, so there is space for some luggage.
Don’t worry I run real fast with a wheelbarrow, I bet it can easily handle it. The real problem is cornering! What he needs to do next time is shave off the corners so it’s rounded, sand it down flat so it’s a slick like a race tire, and let the metal cables in the tire touch the ground for extra traction.
Maybe air intake scoop on the bottom just in front of the rad and more grated slots in the upper rear portion of the body is what im thinking could help with overheating issues. Along with the additions these motorcycle wizards already did, of course! Great video, love it!
Relocate the radiator to the back of the aluminum plate behind the seat. Cut some louvers and problem solved. And an added bonus would be that the fan from the radiator will be sucking air from the inside which will get replaced with fresh cool air so you can drive it with the top closed.
I absolutely love the mirror on the boot!!!! When you ask Craig, "you think this is going to work" and Craig just gives you a YA!!!, ITS GOING TO WORK!!!! Great video guys love to see you both in the videos!!!!
I think it's the combination of cool air flow in and lack of heated air flow out. It keeps circling back the hot air in that closed motorcompartment so the engine can't cool back enough. If you make some slots in the back compartment it will suck in cool air and breath out hot air better.. Well, that's my theory. Other than that, another great video, good to see you guys back together again for once..!!
Definitely there's some heat retention via a lack of additional rearward escape vents, which is not helping reduce heat-soaking of the enginebay & bike frame. But it's better than it was, and some future more internal baffles and airflow guide plates & vanes &/or correx panelling to channel airflow more through the radiator could be greater in effect; ...with improved outflow venting exits both near the frame rails & rear of the rad, and in the rear of the nacelle housingvto allow heat pocket outflow.
Weird thought but like couldn’t u have put a turbo on it? But don’t connect the boost to the engine but instead to in front of the radiator? That would be a lot of added cooled air
The rear tire could be swapped to an automotive tire because it will NEVER so any lean angle. And with an automotive tire the wheel would have a bigger flat contact patch = better traction. In fact i would swap the front tire for an automotive as well. that will give more cornering grip and contact patch for heavy braking. btw, how much cooler would that thing have been if it had retractable side wheels!
The other people talking on the bike were probably talking about a vacuum style system where you would put a larger opening but then you would make sure that you seal the rest of it in a way that you would put scoops on it and the low pressure would basically create a vacuum to pull air through the radiator which could work but you would just better to be putting a fan shroud on and having a fan on it pulling the air through
YOUR SMILE MADE ME LAUGH!! I loved it!!! You were a big kid again be damned!! I smiled as much as you did, missing my Sand rail.. 😢😢 great concept better video
Hey Craig i need help bad on my Kawasaki Vulcan 800 it runs but got a bad noise cant figure it out and i just got out of the Hospital almost died. I want to get my bike fixed and back on the road its all i got and i love to be rideing again. I dont have no one to help me and i thought i would reach out to you and maybe you could help me please. I just cant catch a break in life. I have had it hard. Thanks for your videos they have been fun to watch while i was in the hospital i really thank it got me through everything.
You need to redirect the air coming from the outside duct inside the engine with some ducting directed at the radiator inside the engine bay to help with cooling
When they said someone had put a GSXR in there to engine swap it, never did I think they'd only take off the front wheel and the seat and just stuff the bike on in there whole and basically complete 🤣🤣🤣🤣 that's brilliant
There is basically a post welded in there and the bike, minus the forks and front wheel is lowered on to the post. 70 hours later everything was hooked up and running. The Gixxer is a complete bike for least amount of heehaw to get it to work
Seeing Craig & Sean together reminded me of the time on B&B where Craig attempted to steal the bike off the street that they had setup with different theft deterrent devices.
I always wonder what the neighbors (presumably just out of shot) think on some of the test rides as yet another random piece of loud machinery zips in and out of the driveway. I hope they're actually gearheads and love to see the projects come and go - but this one must have been a jaw-dropper no matter what.
Larger openings at the rear of the cowling are required. The theory is the same as cowl flaps for reciprocating aircraft engines. The more the flaps or doors are open the more air flows across the oil cooler and the oil temperature will be controlled on the air cooled engines of aircraft. The cowling and air inlets are good but without having sufficient openings for the air that enters the cowling to exhaust the pressure will build up and the air will stop entering the inlets and seek the path of least resistance which is to remain on the outside of the cowling. Simple thermodynamics. As the velocity decreases and pressure of the air increases the temperature increases and as the velocity increases and pressure decreases the temperature will decrease Bernoulli’s principle is what makes every combustion engine run and everything that flies FLY
Have you ever tried using Engine Ice in any of your projects? It can be a PITA making sure you've drained all the old conventional coolant before switching over, but the resulting much cooler running temps are pretty impressive. I don't think it'd solve all your problems, but it might help. I started out using it in one bike just to see how it was, and over time, both my partner and I have been running it in most bikes in the garage because it keeps running temps in the basement. Hope that helps!
Needs separated radiators with ducting and fans for each. That little NACA duct isn't letting enough airflow in and in any case the ducts are too far rearward for this conversion. Splitting the radiators, moving them behind the ducts and installing fans might, just might alleviate the overheating issue. I've seen a conversion that used a Gold Wing and it had a large pair of add on air scoops.
Those Hazard Fraught wing tires are a disaster waiting to happen at highway speeds! The exit holes for the cooling air are not sufficient, Reversed scoops to draw air out at the rear would help.
I wouldn't use a switch on the fan. Just have it run any time the ignition is on. If you're cruising at too low of an RPM, the water pump might not be spinning fast enough.
This runs battery’s down . Even tho the stator charges the battery but when people do this on there bikes an quads they start running into a dead battery will riding or weak battery . Iv seen this a lot in the shop. The correct way is to run a temp sensor an run it in the fan circut so when it gets up to a certain temp the fan kicks on an then off when cooled back down .
@@Stuckin330 I keep track of how many Amps I'm using. I upgrade the stator if I go over the factory rating. You can get an upgraded stator for most bikes.
Curious if they thought to check the radiator itself to make sure it's not damaged or plugged? Also, why not just remote mount the radiator ,(maybe add a second one as well), like they do with off road race vehicles, that would get it away from the heat of the engine and in to some clean air. Great video BTW love seeing you guys collaborating again.
Due to high speed being the issue. Possible that the aerodynamics is the issue. The faster you go the more the airflow is separating from the fuselage and potentially bypassing the intake
I use the Vp in my k3 1000 and mixed it with coolant with a little bit of distilled water it runs 175 -181 on the highway and it’s 100 degrees here in Texas but in stop nd go traffic it goes to 200 and 212
I soooo want a "behind the scenes" episode of this episode. Like, what those good-ol-boys doing roadwork or whatever where you parked to take the back off were sayin and ... what was with the mirror taped to the boot? Inquiring minds need to know the answers to these important questions.
If you have a thru-hole, use a spiral point tap.. chips get pushed out in front of the tap and no need to back out to brake the chips.. Not for blind holes tho.
Craig!!! Make a video going through which bikes you've owned through ur life and what about each you liked and disliked, common problems and easy or difficult maintenance!!
Please for the love of tapping, look into helical flute taps or spiral flute taps - it twists the swarf up the flutes and you don't have to back them out. makes tapping 20-30 times faster.
This reminds me of something that was produced in Switzerland back in the `eighties , called the Ecomobile ( I think ) , which was powered by a BMW K100 motor ( again , I think ) ......... Only on this the outrigger wheels were retractable , so once under way you could lean over through bends as you would on a normal bike ........ Nowadays the wheels could be made to retract and lower automatically I guess , but back then you had to flick a switch to raise and lower the side wheels ........ which was fine as long as you remembered to lower them as you came to a halt ........
I wanted to see the pulse jet anything for a long time. I was negotiating a deal for one back in the day. Had to pass, but it never left my interest. Thanks guys.
For you to cool something you have to remove the hot air from the area and replace it with cool air.its not enough to just move the air around you have to actually vacate the hot air away.the stranger on the bike was right.open the outlet up and it will stop overheating
Craig a long time ago early in my career a senior tech told me something that is true to this day. “You don’t necessarily fox it. You just have to make it different.”
Props to the editor for the riveting montage syncing with the music 😎
Came to say the exact same thing.
That was next-level editing for sure!
@17:20 For sure! Big props to Editor
Agree i enjoyed that. Thanks. could do the same with a getting hurt as well.
@@stuartcarter7053me too hahahaha
You need radiator ducting to make it work. Air will take the path of least resistance and air just blowing towards the cooler doesn't do much if it can go around the radiator. There needs to be pressure difference between the front and back side of the radiator to overcome the radiator core resistance and get air flowing through the core.
Armchair mechanic here... did you make sure there were no air bubbles in the cooling system. I did a hair puller one time with a Dodge Intrepid with the V6 that was full of coolant at the radiator cap and had a good thermostat but would still overheat, no problem with the radiator either. There are air bleeders that look like brake bleeders built into that engine at a couple of places on that engine. Once I managed to get all the air bubbles out through those bleeders there was no more overheating problem... just sayn'!! Since that machine looks like one big experiment there may need to be a little re-engineering with a couple of air bubble bleeders added to key places on that coolant system!! Later men, gotta go for a scooter ride.😁
The mirror ductaped to Sean's foot. Sketch for sure lol. Good to see Sean actually fabricating and turning a wrench....
I can't see replies in the comments. Can someone respond to this comment? Maybe that will fix it.
I can see likes, but not replies. Maybe I'm in UA-cam jail for something. It seems like it's just this channel though.
I love how it starts off with Lamborghini Countach air intakes, and ends up with some O-Reilly specials on there.
just needed interior ducting and an outlet
NACA ducts!
It had the O Reilly stick on junk on the driver's side the whole time. He just made one for the passenger side.
@WillmaDFit they are both driver side tho 😂
Rad-e-aye-tor
And Sean was never heard from again, well until he needed an update on the Geico bike.
😂😂
Dual radiators with individual fans relocated behind the scoops would probably fix it.
Cool vehicle, though.
It's always good to see the two of you back together again.
Like the rads and hoses from the vtr 1000.
Well, clearly not cool enough, if it needs dual radiators.
exactly what i was thinking.
@@KyleReese-vt8bo bingo perfect rads for this setup while i was looking at my vtr1000
So I find it fascinating that you can build... a contraption in America, register it and drive it. Like, not based on anything, just wild cards.
It wasn't long ago in california you could ride a gp bike with slicks 😂
That’s why we are the greatest nation on earth. Build it drive it.
Seriously sonny America is one of the nastiest, most unpleasant, racist, bigoted cesspit in the world.
You've been lied to all your life.
Freedom
America will stay the best country, especially when Trump gets back in. Our Constitution is unrivalled and so are the freedoms it guarantees.
What it really needs is a total strip down, various reengineering of major components and a better paint job. This patchwork fix approach is just making it look like someone's cobbled together backyard project. I wouldn't mind seeing this project turned into a series.
I think the scrappy look is what makes it cool.
The problem is ALWAYS EXHAUSTING hot air! I've learned this through finding passive ways to cool rooms and computers. You NEED to exhaust the hot air so cool air can replace it.
I recently found this page after a break up and decided to delete social media and spend my time learning about restoring classic motorcycles and take my mind off things. since finding your channel it’s been such a positive thing to start and end my day watching!
Keep up the amazing content and I can’t wait to see more project! Thank you Craig and the team!
Sean is like my brother. He stands around and watches while I do all the work, and when it's finished, he says we fixed it.😡
That dude seems a bit off
@@jamsstar2010it’s just his personality I met him at an event wonderful dude and started from nothing
Yeah I usually skip the Sean episodes
He seemed to actually do quite a lot in this one to be fair
Theirs always that guy at a work site that tries to do only the easiest job, if anything at all.
The cooling is maybe simpler than you think. You can move the radiator itself to another place. Yes, remove the fluid, length the hoses, refill. But then you have severa options for it. Use 2 smaller radiators, one on each intake hole. or move the radiator "under" the floor, so it will get straight wind.
Or make a new hole in the underbody with a 3rd scoop, and put a funnel-hose straight to the rad, and let the side ones cool the rest of the engine.
would look kinda cool with an intake scoop on top like the F1 cars.
I love that idea
A la P51
@@WoNkY_DoG How do you want to handle this with the sliding cockpit roofpart? No, the only way are the sides and from under the floor. I have seen enough videos from guys, who swaped Subaru engines into old VW Busses. They all do it with the radiator somewhere under the floor. Some beetle idiots put the radiator on the rear seat, but that is the rookie solution.
Another scoop under the thing, lead the airflow straight to the radiator, the side intakes do the rest of the engine. Best solution. And another intake somewhere in the front for the passenger. And the rear seat, remove it and make a "Munk" out of it, so there is space for some luggage.
@@TobiasRieperGER did he not say the roof was a bit dangerous? I'd do away with it tbf. chill
Gotta love those Tractor Supply high speed rated tires. Just don't go faster than a wheelbarrow...
Don’t worry I run real fast with a wheelbarrow, I bet it can easily handle it. The real problem is cornering! What he needs to do next time is shave off the corners so it’s rounded, sand it down flat so it’s a slick like a race tire, and let the metal cables in the tire touch the ground for extra traction.
Just lean the whole rig, have those wings fold up at speed.
Yes, Ive waited 3 years for this one!!! Thank you for trying to bring it back to life, so freaking cool 😎
Oddly he posted nearly the exact same episode that was posted on Bikes and Beards an hour ago.
Maybe air intake scoop on the bottom just in front of the rad and more grated slots in the upper rear portion of the body is what im thinking could help with overheating issues. Along with the additions these motorcycle wizards already did, of course! Great video, love it!
I'm no expert but I think air 'getting out' would also be an issue
@@kcav5374 thus the reason for the grated slots in upper rear portion of the body.
The random guy on a bicycle was right, the air going in needs somewhere to go. A bigger vent on the back would help get all the heat out
the beat matching the riveting at 17:18 😍😍
😂😂😂😂 the grin leaving the shop in it for the test drive 😂😂😂😂
Relocate the radiator to the back of the aluminum plate behind the seat. Cut some louvers and problem solved. And an added bonus would be that the fan from the radiator will be sucking air from the inside which will get replaced with fresh cool air so you can drive it with the top closed.
Epic editing Dan, great job Craig, Sean and Greg,
I absolutely love the mirror on the boot!!!! When you ask Craig, "you think this is going to work" and Craig just gives you a YA!!!, ITS GOING TO WORK!!!! Great video guys love to see you both in the videos!!!!
Glad you guys still do stuff together. I think Shaun dropped a video too.
That riveting montage was super satisfying.
31:29 You can truly see the pain in Craig's eyes as he bids farewell to his long lost friend once again...
I mean the autocycle. 😂
It’s been so long! I’m so glad we get to see that thing drive!
Love it when you two work together on a project! ❤ stay healthy guys, ride safe
"We're going to fix it until it's worse." 😂
That should be a t-shirt.
The bearded mechanic driving something with a steering wheel really throws me off 😂
17:12 this beat match edit is so good!
It needs somewhere for the hot air to escape. The exit hole for the air needs to be bigger than the entrance.
i'm of the same opinion, if they can pull vacuum, air inlet wouldnt be much of a problem
Sean, buddy. Craig. The pillion riding position on that thing is as intimate as it hilarious.
The "boot mirror" was the clincher there.
Hahahaha! That zoomed in goodbye wave looked so defeated. You guys are great, hope it all works out.
😂
I dig this show, thank you Craig and Film Crew.
The music beat with the rivet tool was really good.
Minute 31:24 peak of sadness 👋👋👋😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣👌👌👌
That is a cool machine and I'm glad you got it working better
I think it's the combination of cool air flow in and lack of heated air flow out. It keeps circling back the hot air in that closed motorcompartment so the engine can't cool back enough. If you make some slots in the back compartment it will suck in cool air and breath out hot air better.. Well, that's my theory. Other than that, another great video, good to see you guys back together again for once..!!
Great tto see you guys back again.i watch absolutely all your videos . Brian from Ireland 🇮🇪
So good to see you both working together again.
That side mirror on Shauns foot cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This episode was really fun! I don’t skip your advertisement either because you do a good job👍.
Definitely there's some heat retention via a lack of additional rearward escape vents, which is not helping reduce heat-soaking of the enginebay & bike frame.
But it's better than it was, and some future more internal baffles and airflow guide plates & vanes &/or correx panelling to channel airflow more through the radiator could be greater in effect;
...with improved outflow venting exits both near the frame rails & rear of the rad, and in the rear of the nacelle housingvto allow heat pocket outflow.
There's whole door behind the NACA duct they could use as escape hatch for heat, by leaving it slightly, say 3 inches, open...
What's great about my life is that I'm happy to have skipped work today to be able to what this at 9am.
Get back to work!
-your boss
Tape and string people…. See how the airflow is actually moving around the intake and exhausting areas for cooling.
So good to see them back together. When is Craig just gonna move to the great state of Tennessee? Come on Craig!
Awesome and outstanding.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Weird thought but like couldn’t u have put a turbo on it? But don’t connect the boost to the engine but instead to in front of the radiator? That would be a lot of added cooled air
Hello there! Have a great Weekend!🙌🏼🙌🏼
That thing is awesome! and worthy of a fighter jet themed paint job 😎
The rear tire could be swapped to an automotive tire because it will NEVER so any lean angle. And with an automotive tire the wheel would have a bigger flat contact patch = better traction.
In fact i would swap the front tire for an automotive as well. that will give more cornering grip and contact patch for heavy braking.
btw, how much cooler would that thing have been if it had retractable side wheels!
The front tire is a car tire already.
The other people talking on the bike were probably talking about a vacuum style system where you would put a larger opening but then you would make sure that you seal the rest of it in a way that you would put scoops on it and the low pressure would basically create a vacuum to pull air through the radiator which could work but you would just better to be putting a fan shroud on and having a fan on it pulling the air through
YOUR SMILE MADE ME LAUGH!! I loved it!!! You were a big kid again be damned!! I smiled as much as you did, missing my Sand rail.. 😢😢 great concept better video
What a team. Love when they get together
always great to see you guys together, great team
The mirror taped to his boot made me lol 😂 Sean's a nut
Pleasantly surprised by the synchronization of the riveting with the music in editing
Riveting to the beat was an awesome piece of film!
In the ‘80s there was two of these that a pharmacy used for deliveries and always got attention. Abilene Texas.
the look on Greg's face at the end scene... priceless... like ... nightmarish vibes...
Hey Craig i need help bad on my Kawasaki Vulcan 800 it runs but got a bad noise cant figure it out and i just got out of the Hospital almost died. I want to get my bike fixed and back on the road its all i got and i love to be rideing again. I dont have no one to help me and i thought i would reach out to you and maybe you could help me please. I just cant catch a break in life. I have had it hard. Thanks for your videos they have been fun to watch while i was in the hospital i really thank it got me through everything.
You need to redirect the air coming from the outside duct inside the engine with some ducting directed at the radiator inside the engine bay to help with cooling
Pretty snazzy editing with the rivet gun!
When they said someone had put a GSXR in there to engine swap it, never did I think they'd only take off the front wheel and the seat and just stuff the bike on in there whole and basically complete 🤣🤣🤣🤣 that's brilliant
There is basically a post welded in there and the bike, minus the forks and front wheel is lowered on to the post. 70 hours later everything was hooked up and running. The Gixxer is a complete bike for least amount of heehaw to get it to work
Feel like Craig is just humouring Sean - great work Craig on this channel ❤
Seeing Craig & Sean together reminded me of the time on B&B where Craig attempted to steal the bike off the street that they had setup with different theft deterrent devices.
That was pretty funny as things got progressively dodgy. 😂
Had a early 80's GSX750 and used to increase the Rev's to cool it down !!
I always wonder what the neighbors (presumably just out of shot) think on some of the test rides as yet another random piece of loud machinery zips in and out of the driveway. I hope they're actually gearheads and love to see the projects come and go - but this one must have been a jaw-dropper no matter what.
Larger openings at the rear of the cowling are required. The theory is the same as cowl flaps for reciprocating aircraft engines. The more the flaps or doors are open the more air flows across the oil cooler and the oil temperature will be controlled on the air cooled engines of aircraft. The cowling and air inlets are good but without having sufficient openings for the air that enters the cowling to exhaust the pressure will build up and the air will stop entering the inlets and seek the path of least resistance which is to remain on the outside of the cowling. Simple thermodynamics.
As the velocity decreases and pressure of the air increases the temperature increases and as the velocity increases and pressure decreases the temperature will decrease
Bernoulli’s principle is what makes every combustion engine run and everything that flies FLY
Have you ever tried using Engine Ice in any of your projects? It can be a PITA making sure you've drained all the old conventional coolant before switching over, but the resulting much cooler running temps are pretty impressive. I don't think it'd solve all your problems, but it might help. I started out using it in one bike just to see how it was, and over time, both my partner and I have been running it in most bikes in the garage because it keeps running temps in the basement. Hope that helps!
This was too funny 😂 I love the mirrors on the boot 😅
As a stoner and someone with slight OCD, thank you Dan for making the little drops in the song line up with Greg’s rivets and Sean’s drilling ❤
Im right there with you buddy, stoner with OCD (autistic) Love it
Nice to see the use of CAD. Cardboard Aided Design.
I feel that the nuts to butts barrier is sufficient but ankles near shoulders is still questionable. True bromance!!!!! I’m here for it! Lol
That mirror taped to your boot is great
Needs separated radiators with ducting and fans for each. That little NACA duct isn't letting enough airflow in and in any case the ducts are too far rearward for this conversion. Splitting the radiators, moving them behind the ducts and installing fans might, just might alleviate the overheating issue. I've seen a conversion that used a Gold Wing and it had a large pair of add on air scoops.
Everytime you release a video an angel gets their wings
Those Hazard Fraught wing tires are a disaster waiting to happen at highway speeds! The exit holes for the cooling air are not sufficient, Reversed scoops to draw air out at the rear would help.
I wouldn't use a switch on the fan. Just have it run any time the ignition is on. If you're cruising at too low of an RPM, the water pump might not be spinning fast enough.
This runs battery’s down . Even tho the stator charges the battery but when people do this on there bikes an quads they start running into a dead battery will riding or weak battery . Iv seen this a lot in the shop. The correct way is to run a temp sensor an run it in the fan circut so when it gets up to a certain temp the fan kicks on an then off when cooled back down .
@@Stuckin330 I keep track of how many Amps I'm using. I upgrade the stator if I go over the factory rating. You can get an upgraded stator for most bikes.
Awesome, is like jet fighter not in the sky but on the ground, i'm pretty sure the you can fix anything
Curious if they thought to check the radiator itself to make sure it's not damaged or plugged? Also, why not just remote mount the radiator ,(maybe add a second one as well), like they do with off road race vehicles, that would get it away from the heat of the engine and in to some clean air. Great video BTW love seeing you guys collaborating again.
Something sad over this episode, lovely to see you work together, but it's also a reminder of what we're missing out on these days.
Due to high speed being the issue. Possible that the aerodynamics is the issue. The faster you go the more the airflow is separating from the fuselage and potentially bypassing the intake
love the duck tape mirror to the foot trick.
I use the Vp in my k3 1000 and mixed it with coolant with a little bit of distilled water it runs 175 -181 on the highway and it’s 100 degrees here in Texas but in stop nd go traffic it goes to 200 and 212
You and Sean remind me of Bevis and Buthead of the motorcycle world.
I soooo want a "behind the scenes" episode of this episode. Like, what those good-ol-boys doing roadwork or whatever where you parked to take the back off were sayin and ... what was with the mirror taped to the boot? Inquiring minds need to know the answers to these important questions.
I seen the smile on Craig's face when gave it some pedal .
If you have a thru-hole, use a spiral point tap.. chips get pushed out in front of the tap and no need to back out to brake the chips.. Not for blind holes tho.
Craig!!! Make a video going through which bikes you've owned through ur life and what about each you liked and disliked, common problems and easy or difficult maintenance!!
Kinda wish you went with him on another bike or something. Would've been a cool mini series. Kinda like a throw back series.
Please for the love of tapping, look into helical flute taps or spiral flute taps - it twists the swarf up the flutes and you don't have to back them out. makes tapping 20-30 times faster.
Lubing your linkage.....man that takes me back to my highschool days....
This reminds me of something that was produced in Switzerland back in the `eighties , called the Ecomobile ( I think ) , which was powered by a BMW K100 motor ( again , I think ) ......... Only on this the outrigger wheels were retractable , so once under way you could lean over through bends as you would on a normal bike ........
Nowadays the wheels could be made to retract and lower automatically I guess , but back then you had to flick a switch to raise and lower the side wheels ........ which was fine as long as you remembered to lower them as you came to a halt ........
I wanted to see the pulse jet anything for a long time. I was negotiating a deal for one back in the day. Had to pass, but it never left my interest. Thanks guys.
The close up you waving at the end 😂very funny
For you to cool something you have to remove the hot air from the area and replace it with cool air.its not enough to just move the air around you have to actually vacate the hot air away.the stranger on the bike was right.open the outlet up and it will stop overheating
Love to see you guys come together once in awhile, but man he can't pay you enough for the amount of work he asks you to do 😂😊
Following, THe guy with the beard, absolute genius,
Craig a long time ago early in my career a senior tech told me something that is true to this day. “You don’t necessarily fox it. You just have to make it different.”