Thanks for doing the video Mark. I've been refurbing an old BB Super Scorpion and covering it with doculam then polyester cloth/polyurethane matt varnish (Rustins now that Wilko has gone in the UK). Getting great results. I think the advantage of the polyester is that I don't have to dye it. I don't do the water spraying and blotting. Just get straight in there with the polyurethane varnish. 2 coats. I'm a convert from dope using this method. Please keep the vids coming. We all greatly appreciate them and the time it must take you to put them together.
Thank you very much for the comment, its really appreciated, and thanks for sharing your technique, always interesting to hear how others cover, sounds a great job, the Super Scorpion is a great model 😀
Hi Mark Really enjoy your videos. I am a long term modeller in Australia. The local club is really friendly and has great facilities (Just north of Sydney) Unfortunately I am the only member who builds his own models and uses both diesel and spark vintage motors. Mostly the others fly electric foam models. Crash - buy a new one! Sign of the times.
Superb finish there Mark. Of course, the benefits of using polyurethane over dope is that shrinking dope can introduce warps. Oh yes. If I was to climb up on my bench I would need to call International Rescue to get me down. 😆 thanks Mark and have a great Christmas.
What you are doing is pretty much the same as glassing with epoxy or polyester resin, just different materials. Nice results! My view of this is you are using surface tension of the water to temporarily adhere the cloth to the doculam, then applying the polyurethane to provide a matrix to hold the cloth stiffly later on. Additionally, the silk expands a bit when wet, so that when it is dry, it has comparatively shrunk just a little bit (back to its original size). I think the overlapping of the top and bottom surfaces is probably critical to the whole thing working, as it holds the silk together as an envelope. If the edges were to get picked up, I wonder how well it is really stuck to the doculam. Kind of like shingles failing at the corner of the roof and such.
Thanks for the comment, totally agree with what you're saying. The seams do help keeping it all secure. It will peal off, but the adherence is very good and I don't have any concerns about it coming loose. 😀
Excellent video Mark. The blotting was new to me and I will certainly be doing it in future _ I would usually try to brush it out. I use Polyvine acrylic PU lacquer (silk finish or matt) instead of the Wilko product.
@ also wondering if you are able to scuff up the laminate first? We use scuff pads in the collision industry. There is 3 kind red, grey and gold. Gold is the less aggressive one. Wondering if it would help with taking some of the shine away and at the same time giving the laminate better adhesion. Just a thought. You can probably do a test on a small piece first. But anyway still a nice way of covering the plane. Thanks.
Thanks for the suggestion, it's appreciated. The shine isn't a problem as it goes as soon as you apply the second coat of polyurethane. As you say scuffing the surface may add to the adhesion, but honestly I have never has issues with it coming loose, it sticks quite well.
I've never seen silk over Laminating film.. can anyone elaborate why you would do both? seems redundant.. and adds weight.. maybe with both you don't need as much on the top coats? i dunno... i've glassed, silked, tissue, iron on coatings.. monokote.. etc... never dreamed of doing both iron on and a fabric over..
That's certainly a reasonable question -- you sound old school, like me, with tissue, silkspan and silk experience. The Model L's wing area is 330 in², so top + bottom is about ½ sq. yd. The silk Mark is using is probably 5 momme which weighs approximately 9.25 grams for the wing or 1/3 of an ounce. Doculam is also very light. With silk alone, you need to fill the weave with enough dope to tighten and give an airtight covering. Silk over doculam does not need to be shrunk or completely filled (no expensive dope, fumes or divorce). And, you will either need to dye the silk or paint it, which does add weight. PU can get heavy, but one or two blotted coats is sufficient. In the long run, if you do the weight calculations, this may well be one of the lighter coverings you can use and the doculam is very puncture resistant. I like 8 momme silk -- a little heavier (~ 1 oz/yd²), but available in colors.
You may find that you need to use the paper towels less for blotting if you used a foam Brush. In my opinion, Wooster is the best brand for our applications. Before I ever heard of Doculam, Airborne Magazine in Australia was speaking very well of and advertising OZ-Cover and Rhino Cover. I bought one and found it indistinguishable from Doculam. They were using Nitrate dope to apply tissue and silk over it. I appreciate what you said about dope shrinkage but I've always been less than satisfied with the end result with Polyurethane . I know some of your countrymen use Rustins plastic floor covering to fuel proof their models. It's a two part polyurethane but I can't obtain it in the States and they won't ship it. I intend to experiment with StrongSeal Plus Polyurethane Coating which I bought off of Amazon, a water base 2-part polyurethane. I could try Aerokote from Deluxe Materials but the catalyst has a six month shelf like and no manufacture date.
Thanks for doing the video Mark. I've been refurbing an old BB Super Scorpion and covering it with doculam then polyester cloth/polyurethane matt varnish (Rustins now that Wilko has gone in the UK). Getting great results. I think the advantage of the polyester is that I don't have to dye it. I don't do the water spraying and blotting. Just get straight in there with the polyurethane varnish. 2 coats. I'm a convert from dope using this method. Please keep the vids coming. We all greatly appreciate them and the time it must take you to put them together.
Thank you very much for the comment, its really appreciated, and thanks for sharing your technique, always interesting to hear how others cover, sounds a great job, the Super Scorpion is a great model 😀
Great video as always Mark. The wing looks amazing.
Merry Christmas
Thank you, pleased you like it. Merry Christmas to you as well hope you have a great one 😀
Hi Mark, beautiful job. This is something that I'll must try. Nice video as always 🙂
Thank you very much, pleased you enjoyed it 😀
Hi Mark
Really enjoy your videos.
I am a long term modeller in Australia.
The local club is really friendly and has great facilities (Just north of Sydney)
Unfortunately I am the only member who builds his own models and uses both diesel and spark vintage motors.
Mostly the others fly electric foam models.
Crash - buy a new one!
Sign of the times.
Thank you for the comment, really pleased you enjoy the videos, great to hear you're flying diesels and sparkies, keep it up, its great fun 😀
Superb finish there Mark. Of course, the benefits of using polyurethane over dope is that shrinking dope can introduce warps. Oh yes. If I was to climb up on my bench I would need to call International Rescue to get me down. 😆 thanks Mark and have a great Christmas.
@@terryblackman6217 Thanks Terry, appreciate the comment, pleased you liked it. Hope you have a really great Christmas and New Year, all the best 😀
Perfect job mark, looks brilliant I'm going to try this method in one of modes in the future just looks spot on ,thanks mate Merry Christmas mate 🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for the comment, pleased you found the video useful, hope your covering goes well 😀
Beautiful silk job, thank you very much for posting. Happy Holidays to you and yours.
Thanks, pleased you enjoyed it, hope you are having a good holiday and New year 😀
That wing looks absolutely beautiful Mark. Well done ! Merry Chritmas!
Thank you very much, appreciate the comment, hope you have a great Christmas and New Year
What you are doing is pretty much the same as glassing with epoxy or polyester resin, just different materials. Nice results! My view of this is you are using surface tension of the water to temporarily adhere the cloth to the doculam, then applying the polyurethane to provide a matrix to hold the cloth stiffly later on. Additionally, the silk expands a bit when wet, so that when it is dry, it has comparatively shrunk just a little bit (back to its original size). I think the overlapping of the top and bottom surfaces is probably critical to the whole thing working, as it holds the silk together as an envelope. If the edges were to get picked up, I wonder how well it is really stuck to the doculam. Kind of like shingles failing at the corner of the roof and such.
Thanks for the comment, totally agree with what you're saying. The seams do help keeping it all secure. It will peal off, but the adherence is very good and I don't have any concerns about it coming loose. 😀
Excellent video Mark. The blotting was new to me and I will certainly be doing it in future _ I would usually try to brush it out. I use Polyvine acrylic PU lacquer (silk finish or matt) instead of the Wilko product.
@@DavidHill-so2do Thank you very much David, really appreciate the comment, pleased you liked it. Have a great Christmas 🎅
Great job brother. Looking good so far.
Thank you very much, appreciate the comment 😀
Really interesting and well explained.
@@richardhayes200 Thank you very much, pleased you enjoyed it 😀
Brilliant. If you could put up a link to where to get the laminating film and silk that would be great. thanks for doing the video.
Thanks, pleased you liked it, I have added links to the video description, thanks for mentioning it, a good reminder 😜
@MarkRobinson555 Great Stuff thanks I'm new to building.
You should try one of those roller knifes. They use those to cut fabric.
Thanks for the suggestion 😀
@ also wondering if you are able to scuff up the laminate first? We use scuff pads in the collision industry. There is 3 kind red, grey and gold. Gold is the less aggressive one. Wondering if it would help with taking some of the shine away and at the same time giving the laminate better adhesion. Just a thought. You can probably do a test on a small piece first. But anyway still a nice way of covering the plane. Thanks.
Thanks for the suggestion, it's appreciated. The shine isn't a problem as it goes as soon as you apply the second coat of polyurethane. As you say scuffing the surface may add to the adhesion, but honestly I have never has issues with it coming loose, it sticks quite well.
Can you make a video showing how much balsa wood you need to buy to build off the plans?
you didnt leave a link to how to cover with laminating film!
Thanks, I have just added a link to the description 😀
@MarkRobinson555 cheers!
I've never seen silk over Laminating film.. can anyone elaborate why you would do both? seems redundant.. and adds weight.. maybe with both you don't need as much on the top coats? i dunno... i've glassed, silked, tissue, iron on coatings.. monokote.. etc... never dreamed of doing both iron on and a fabric over..
That's certainly a reasonable question -- you sound old school, like me, with tissue, silkspan and silk experience. The Model L's wing area is 330 in², so top + bottom is about ½ sq. yd. The silk Mark is using is probably 5 momme which weighs approximately 9.25 grams for the wing or 1/3 of an ounce. Doculam is also very light. With silk alone, you need to fill the weave with enough dope to tighten and give an airtight covering. Silk over doculam does not need to be shrunk or completely filled (no expensive dope, fumes or divorce). And, you will either need to dye the silk or paint it, which does add weight. PU can get heavy, but one or two blotted coats is sufficient. In the long run, if you do the weight calculations, this may well be one of the lighter coverings you can use and the doculam is very puncture resistant. I like 8 momme silk -- a little heavier (~ 1 oz/yd²), but available in colors.
You may find that you need to use the paper towels less for blotting if you used a foam Brush. In my opinion, Wooster is the best brand for our applications. Before I ever heard of Doculam, Airborne Magazine in Australia was speaking very well of and advertising OZ-Cover and Rhino Cover. I bought one and found it indistinguishable from Doculam. They were using Nitrate dope to apply tissue and silk over it. I appreciate what you said about dope shrinkage but I've always been less than satisfied with the end result with Polyurethane . I know some of your countrymen use Rustins plastic floor covering to fuel proof their models. It's a two part polyurethane but I can't obtain it in the States and they won't ship it. I intend to experiment with StrongSeal Plus Polyurethane Coating which I bought off of Amazon, a water base 2-part polyurethane. I could try Aerokote from Deluxe Materials but the catalyst has a six month shelf like and no manufacture date.
Thank you for the comment and suggestions, always interesting to hear from others 😀