just wanted to mention how much I appreciate that you do men's fashion as well! so much historical fashion content is extremely rigidly feminine (it's not a problem, just nice to have some variety)
Nicole's channel is a an absolute godsend for those of us with these wardrobe aspirations. I quite like watching people sew up amazing feminine historical clothing, but I don't want to wear it. Nicole sews things I can actually see myself wearing.
As a gay man who likes to dress my gender - but dress up a little - I suspect I could probably share an aspirational wardrobe with you. And a good waistcoat will accentuate a waist, shoulders, anything you want to, really... What person on earth wouldn't want that?
This whole video is beautiful for many reasons, but I very truly, deeply, and sincerely appreciate that you actually showed the process of trying on the mock up on your body (not a dress form), addressing the fit issues by yourself (no helper pinning things for you), then transferring the changes to the pattern and doing the process over again with the second mock up. That was some of the most useful and relatable youtube sewing content I've seen. Thank you.
As a nonbinary female person with a love of historical menswear, this is basically my perfect youtube content, and it's so hard to find stuff like this. Thank you!
I was just about to comment pretty much exactly the same thing XD It is very difficult to find historic garments that I want to wear and will also fit me and make me feel comfy. This project is the most absolute perfect thing ever!
I hope to! I just need to spread them out a bit since they're usually don't perform well (I think this is because there aren't very many videos like this and yt doesn't know what to do with them, not because low popularity)
@@NicoleRudolph Honestly, as a guy with a boyfriend who likes to dress in 1880s-1930s clothes... This is gold! Even when shown on a female body it's still content I can use. (Because funnily enough nobody - not even my boyfriend - has a body that conforms perfectly to a sewing pattern.)
This is so incredibly useful as a trans man who loves 20s fashion. Men's vests and such don't quite fit me right because I'm pre-t and still have curves. I've been wanting to make up my own suit and so this is perfect, I want the suit to *fit* me, but to still look like a men's suit.
Been on t 10 years/post top, and I still have curves! Lol I think at this point its just a matter of needing to lose some pounds, but learning how to tailor a suit to fit and also give more masculine look is so great!
My first thought absolutely wasn't "I'm gay" - honey, I first had that thought decades ago... - but it does look great on her. And I think it would look great on quite a lot of women, men and anything else, really. The tweed is great.
Oh my goodness, I was just telling someone that I want to wear 1920s clothes a few days ago! This is such a perfectly timed video, what a happy coincidence! Thank you for making this. As a pre-transition trans man, your video means so much to me!
Thank you, thank you, for showing that iterative fitting process. I always feel like I must be incompetent when I see folks jump straight from drafting a pattern to cutting the final fabric.
Describing with words how to remove fullness in a garment by using darts, or moving fullness from one dart to another, seems tricky to me, but you did it so clearly! And being able to then see the changes you make on the pattern, and how that changes the fit of the mock-up is so helpful for us visual learners!
This is how it’s done, darts are wonderful. The bust dart we use on women starts as a dart between the neck and shoulder and is transferred as she did it, or wherever wanted. Adjusting on the body by someone who gets it is magical. I loved seeing the management of the bulk at the front armhole, an extreme horror for me…I sew and my sewing teacher is well trained but has not this mental fluidity…I have made suits inder her supervision and stopped because of the fabric excess on the armhole. I felt like the bachelor from Prague having a bust, a C cup. The garment should fit the body perfectly to the armhole, and the arm on the body is separate so the arm of the garment should fit neatly on the armhole and let you move freely. Heidi Slimane working on men’s wear 20 years ago did the most beautiful jeans, made perfect bottoms…with the curve, perfect fit, and suits with darts on the shoulder back, in the elbow..wherever needed Best, A dart in the back arm hole…so men with 28 inch waists and high armpits with clean lean backs ie not bulky meat footballers and 6 foot tall etc fitted perfectly. Freedom. Karl Lagerfeld lost lots of weight so he could have a Heidi. I have put on 10 kegs because of vile corticosteroids for medically caused asthma, I was 56 kg on 5’6” …the heaviest I had been but perfectly lovely. I want to lose a few inches off my waist seeing how these fit and go back to roughly same size as Nicole.
Thank you so much! I am non-binary afab and just starting with getting into tailoring and historical dress because I've gotten fed up with never finding modern clothes I feel good in. This video is so incredibly helpful - so much of the info I've been craving!
To see this easier could you try wearing a different color shirt, so that we can see the mock-up better. Many of us aren’t experienced sewers, and are in interested in learning. Thank you for calm demeanor
Wonderful. One day I will do this. one day. I love how at the time women's wear was trending slightly androgynous by taking out the curves in dresses but men's wear was also trending slightly androgynous by adding in curves to the tailoring.
My daughter's girlfriend is very much into the same styles you are sewing. I LOVE that she has a role model of someone who looks GREAT in men's clothes altered to fit well, Thank you !!!
Just want to say how much I love and appreciate menswear content. I've gotten sucked into the rabbithole of historical fashion videos, but yours are the first where I can be like "ooh. I want to wear that."
What I love about being a tailor is that nomatter how long you do this job there are always 'new' and interesting ways in sewing, when you watch other people do it. New techniques to you, different solutions to problems and so on! There is no day you don't learn something new. This video really sparked my inspiration on tackling a waistcoat or even a three piecer for myself. I am always a bit intimidated by 'rounder chests' than men usually have 😂🙈😂
I am in awe of the amount of preparation (fitting, re-adjusting, etc.) that is required to create a tailored vest even before cutting into that gorgeous fabric.
It's so satisfying to see you draft the pattern, I'm so used to see western sewers drape them. You moved the darts exactly like my sewing teacher. Love watching you make menswear, so many beautiful sewing techniques and the versatility show in the end is just a chef's kiss.
This is tailoring at its very best. I am not a person who sews, but I'm learning what to look for in a properly created garment. Thank you so much for posting this!
I love that you went through HOW to do some of the mock-up changes. I think that mock-ups are super important, but sometimes I stare at the thing unaware of how to change it 👁️👄👁️
Oh my god I was just telling my friends that I was getting to a point where I was stumped because I couldn't find any good tutorials about how to make a waistcoat and how the canvas and everything works, and here you are with an amazing video that answers basically all of my questions! You're amazing, and I love your content.
As someone with a math learning disability watching something be drafted is like magic. I can do math but it's really easy for me to mess up (3 turns into 5 or 8, 4 becomes 9 or 7, and 2 likes to be 5 or 6 or 8) so I usually default to draping unless I'm using cheap fabric then I'll have a go at drafting.
I can commiserate. I mess up the math on literally every pattern. Ironically, for about six years I did a job which required an excessive amount of mathing and rarely messed that up... I can only assume it was the repetitive nature of it. And also, the fact that I worked solely in millimeters, which is the easiest to math.
I kind of want to marry this video. Wonderful explanation of everything. Thank you so much! Can’t wait to sink my teeth into men’s fashions. Between you and Zack Pinsent, and Dandy Wellington I’m getting universal vibes that it is time.
It's great seeing women wearing men's fashion!!!! For a few reasons I often I shop in the the men's department. Your little dance at the end is divine.
I'm slowly but surely making more of my own clothing and this vest is just Goals! The video is so fantastic cause we get all the steps, even the awkward ones.
You have no idea how happy I am for you to make victorian men's garments. When you think of period clothing, there are only a few men into it and there aren't alot of male youtubers making tutorials for it. You have my subscription🙂
this is exactly the content I NEED. I want to figure out how to make historical men's clothing to suit my nonbinary body and this is so helpful. thank you!!
Wow!!! Absolutely gorgeous. This is the waistcoat of my dreams... I always wanted a tailored suit from the early 1920’s, as it’s one of my favorite eras for menswear. You look like a million bucks in it!! I’m definitely looking forward to the trousers. Much love, and see you soon!
This is one of my favorite fashion periods - men's and women's. Who watches Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries and just gobbles up everybody's clothing?? I don't know how accurate their costuming is, and they're more late vs early 20s, but I just can't get enough of it. And man, Dr Mac and all her fabulous menswear outfits! Those are the wonderful vibes I got from this video. Just love it.
I love how you talk about fitting a garment "my body is a different shape than the pattern expects" is inclusive in gender presentation and body positive! Thank you!
Thank you so much for going through your entire fitting process! This is so often skimmed over, but it's exactly the kind of information I need at the current stage of my sewing journey. Even for a cis-dresser, this is incredibly useful!! Love your channel! ❤❤
The section about the welted pocket alone is worth its weight in gold! Thanks, most patterns give modern welting instructions and they just look wrong when finished.
Never has the Subscribe button been smashed so quickly. I took one look at this as a cravat-wearing AFAB enby and went absolutely hog wild. Thank you Nicole
this video is so helpful! I’m transmasculine and looking to get into historical dress, so it’s really reassuring to see men’s clothing patterns adapted to an AFAB body shape. gives me courage to make my own stuff!
My goodness that looks fantastic on you! Your videos are so motivating. I'm a person who likes to plan for ages and then power through the actual process of creating an item. Your videos show the creating also takes time to get the finish you want. Thank you for sharing so much of your process when making new items!
This vest looks amazing on you, it suits you perfectly ! Thank you for this video. I've nearly finished a vest myself. It's a contemporary pattern, with straps, but when I realised my interfacing wouldn't stick, I was like "that's ok, Nicole did it, so I can do it too" - just with a lot more time and really slowly. Doing this by hand, I learnt that pad stitching is really relaxing and satisfying. The regularity of the pattern was soothing. Now, I know I have two layers of tweed and one layer of linen canvas to go through to make buttonholes. Let's hope I don't mess them !
You're incredible. You don't cut corners just going all the way and create a perfect creation. Wow, fantastic. Thanks for another great lesson for me ♥️
Thank you so much for this!!! I am a butch lesbian that loves historical fashioning and gowns I just dont .... want to wear them and want to make things I can actually wear :) Instantly subscribed thank you so so much
I love your fashion sense and style, you're such a huge inspiration as I find myself drawn to more "vintage" fashion and trying to figure out my own style. Thanks for this in-depth video about the process! Waistcoats are among my favorite things to wear. I'll definitely have to make my own.
I love how you show the pattern making and the mock-up process! That's the ones where I learn the most new things. Making a pattern fit is always tricky, so glad to get some new insights on how to think.
I love how the lapel sits on this waistcoat, it's just perfect, especially combined with the thoughtful tailoring, I imagine that the tailor's tape is to thank for how the lapel looks just nicely weighted and very crisp. Thank you for a very informative video. It really does look like a menswear waistcoat, the proportions are just right, you'd never know it wasn't if it weren't for the video telling us otherwise. I've been doing battle with a waistcoat that had some weird fit issues recently and couldn't figure out what was going on with the gaping at the neckline and lower portion of the armhole at the front, I had suspected it was something amiss with the pattern I made and this video really does prove that and what I actually need to adjust rather than what I thought I did. Back to the drawing board on that one to correct everything north of the side seam since I can understand now where the shape is wrong for my body. I really appreciate the time you take to explain to us how things are done and why.
Vests/waistcoats are just the most amazing garment and they need to come back into Style for men and women!!! Watches that only tell time have literally become nothing but a fashion accessory at this point anyway. So if we brought back the vest... we could bring back pocket watches and that would be amazing! In the age of 3D printers imagine how absolutely amazing pocket watches would be?
This is such a good video. The vest turned out just fantastic, and the descriptions of how to fix the various fit problems were so well-explained. That wool has such a lovely weight to it!
I've been sewing professionally for theatre fir over ten years, and your channel is justjfurther proof that there's always something new to learn. Thanks so much for the detailed fitting content, and also thanks for showing me a completely different way to do a welt! I, feminine lady, love historical sewing, but like others on this thread, prefer a masculine flair to my style, so I too hope this comment guides the algorithm. Thanks again so much for this resource!
This is fascinating. I'm working on a summer suit from the early twenties (I was lucky enough to score an original Butterick men's trousers pattern from ca. 1919, and I'm basing it around that). The vest is next (though my drafting skills are poor), so this is very helpful. Looking forward to the next installments!
Really great video, it was easy to follow the different steps and I really appreciate that you show the drafting and fitting process! And the finished product looks so dashing! 💕
This is really fascinating! I'm thinking of trying to make some masculine historical fashions myself at some point in the near future (I've only made historical feminine garments) so this is a super helpful video.
I don't sew and, quite frankly, don't even understand half of what you say when you're describing what you're doing, but I freaking love watching you sew! It's like watching someone perform magic (even though you tell and show us precisely how you did it) That vest is banging and I can't wait to watch you make the rest of the suit!
As (insert unnecessary self identification here) this is great. In all seriousness, I'm pretty glad I found this video. I'm deep in a UA-cam rabbit hole and your video is perfect for it.
THE VIBES. Also, as always, loving the ASMR bits. Love the pattern matching of the lining/back and main fabric. All around wonderful job and it looks so good on you.
this is really one of the best videos on youtube, for a number of reasons, but I'm here to say THANK YOU for explaining how you did the lining!! it made so much sense and sounds so simple! and your hand-stitching is beautiful to watch!
Glorioski! thanks for the link to Progressive Tailor. I didn't actually need to be reading hundred year old news letters but it's so cool and it's still a great idea to have two pairs of trousers made with a new suit.
Looks amazing and talking about fitting was really helpful. A lot of the more feminine historical fashions aren't my style, so looking forward to the outfit for inspiration :)
This looks absolutely stunning!!! I am very interested in tailoring but it just seems like such a high art... I love that with every video I watch I gain another tiny insight into the world of tailoring. Today you taught me about tailor's tape, which I had never heard of before, so THANK YOU!! My next project will probably already be improved by a lot now :)
I suppose most people are not shaped like the "ideal" for any period, but I am particularly short and thick. My waist is certainly a few inches bigger than it ought to be, but I am also incredibly barrel chested. With narrow shoulders and short arms but a thick chest, the only clothing that really fits are tailored garments. While I lived in Kenya, I found a really good tailor at an affordable price, but off-the-rack vests here in the US are too long and narrow for me. This video has given me courage to take one of the store-bought vests apart to see if I can let it out a bit.
Snazzy! You are the cats pyjamas in this suit. You and Abby are on a roll this week with how informative you have been. That tweed is fabulous. I had a favourite jacket of the same fabric that was donated after many years of love when I outgrew it after 25 years.
First time here, and loved the video, I'm a very curvy gay male and making my own regency style suit which mirrors this men's wear 1920 American styles, and you helping me to figure out measurements for curves but masculine is what's needed for this very niche design, and anyone else loving how us LGBTQIA is bringing back homemade, fancy wear
I loved your approach to fitting this and the result looks great! So much sass and style. Also love watching someone skilled make something awesome out of beautiful materials.
Holy cricket Nicole, this is absolutely stunning! You've given me new goals on making a properly tailored suit for my husband (got to improve my sewing first lol. I'm just starting out on that journey). Holy guacamole batman. I can't wait to see how you do the trousers of this suit so that maybe I can take that and use it to help figure out pants for me lol.
It's amazing how much I learn by simply watching you work through the process. Adjusting the toile while it is on your own body and not a mannequin isn't easy, but you sure do make it look like it is! Thank you for not adding superfluous music over the lovely thread-thru-fabric sounds (ASMR gold). And thank you for explaining your process without being condescending.
My butch partners thank you for this video, and me too! ; ) It's time for me to branch out to the scary world of men's tailoring (aaah!) for their AFAB bodies. This was such a helpful video. I even picked up a number of fitting/dart tips that extend across the gender spectrum for all clothes for any of us with chest sizes of note.
just wanted to mention how much I appreciate that you do men's fashion as well! so much historical fashion content is extremely rigidly feminine (it's not a problem, just nice to have some variety)
as a lesbian whose aspirational wardrobe could be described as "soft butch but make it historical," I am LIVING for this menswear content
Also, the model of these fashions is a hottie! I mean, let’s just say it!
Nicole's channel is a an absolute godsend for those of us with these wardrobe aspirations. I quite like watching people sew up amazing feminine historical clothing, but I don't want to wear it. Nicole sews things I can actually see myself wearing.
As a gay man who likes to dress my gender - but dress up a little - I suspect I could probably share an aspirational wardrobe with you.
And a good waistcoat will accentuate a waist, shoulders, anything you want to, really... What person on earth wouldn't want that?
What do you call an alligator with a vest?
An investigator.
Crap
This whole video is beautiful for many reasons, but I very truly, deeply, and sincerely appreciate that you actually showed the process of trying on the mock up on your body (not a dress form), addressing the fit issues by yourself (no helper pinning things for you), then transferring the changes to the pattern and doing the process over again with the second mock up. That was some of the most useful and relatable youtube sewing content I've seen. Thank you.
As a nonbinary female person with a love of historical menswear, this is basically my perfect youtube content, and it's so hard to find stuff like this. Thank you!
I was just about to comment pretty much exactly the same thing XD
It is very difficult to find historic garments that I want to wear and will also fit me and make me feel comfy. This project is the most absolute perfect thing ever!
Hey nonbinary historical fashion gang
Enby historical fashion squad!
Nonbinary folk here we go! Nicole looks so good in that waistcoat too 🥺🥺
Non-binary female? Isn’t that an oxymoron?
It’s like magic happening. Bertie Wooster would be proud to step out in that!
More to the point, Jeeves would approve! 💚
Oh wow! Your “giant book of tailor’s swatches” is such an amazing asset! What a goldmine of information that must be 😁
Could you please do more videos on tailoring mens wear? There is just not enough videos on historic menswear on youtube!
I hope to! I just need to spread them out a bit since they're usually don't perform well (I think this is because there aren't very many videos like this and yt doesn't know what to do with them, not because low popularity)
@@NicoleRudolph Bigger thanks! Even more for bringing what you already knew wouldn't perform as well -- just for those of us starved for it!
@@NicoleRudolph leaving a comment to hopefully help with visibility for the algorithm!
@@NicoleRudolph Honestly, as a guy with a boyfriend who likes to dress in 1880s-1930s clothes... This is gold! Even when shown on a female body it's still content I can use. (Because funnily enough nobody - not even my boyfriend - has a body that conforms perfectly to a sewing pattern.)
@@rdb4996 Good point! And I'm basically just leaving this comment here to show "engagement" with the content.
This is so incredibly useful as a trans man who loves 20s fashion. Men's vests and such don't quite fit me right because I'm pre-t and still have curves. I've been wanting to make up my own suit and so this is perfect, I want the suit to *fit* me, but to still look like a men's suit.
I hope this is not inappropriate, but just wanted to say that I hope you can fully transition soon. Good luck on the remainder of your journey ❤️
Same, friendo! Same! Now, I just need the skills to do this! xD
Been on t 10 years/post top, and I still have curves! Lol I think at this point its just a matter of needing to lose some pounds, but learning how to tailor a suit to fit and also give more masculine look is so great!
When I saw the thumbnail, the first thing I thought was 'holy shit I'm gay", the suit looks wonderfully on you!
My first thought absolutely wasn't "I'm gay" - honey, I first had that thought decades ago... - but it does look great on her. And I think it would look great on quite a lot of women, men and anything else, really. The tweed is great.
I came down here to say exactly that.
Oh my goodness, I was just telling someone that I want to wear 1920s clothes a few days ago! This is such a perfectly timed video, what a happy coincidence! Thank you for making this. As a pre-transition trans man, your video means so much to me!
Curvy crossdressers: write that down, write that down!
Also, when in glasses and mock up, you give huge Harold Lloyd vibes👌
Thank you, thank you, for showing that iterative fitting process. I always feel like I must be incompetent when I see folks jump straight from drafting a pattern to cutting the final fabric.
Even professional tailors like to fit a mock-up first.
Describing with words how to remove fullness in a garment by using darts, or moving fullness from one dart to another, seems tricky to me, but you did it so clearly! And being able to then see the changes you make on the pattern, and how that changes the fit of the mock-up is so helpful for us visual learners!
its just as mind breaking when you do a dart shift like that. it like wait i can do that!??
This is how it’s done, darts are wonderful. The bust dart we use on women starts as a dart between the neck and shoulder and is transferred as she did it, or wherever wanted. Adjusting on the body by someone who gets it is magical. I loved seeing the management of the bulk at the front armhole, an extreme horror for me…I sew and my sewing teacher is well trained but has not this mental fluidity…I have made suits inder her supervision and stopped because of the fabric excess on the armhole. I felt like the bachelor from Prague having a bust, a C cup. The garment should fit the body perfectly to the armhole, and the arm on the body is separate so the arm of the garment should fit neatly on the armhole and let you move freely.
Heidi Slimane working on men’s wear 20 years ago did the most beautiful jeans, made perfect bottoms…with the curve, perfect fit, and suits with darts on the shoulder back, in the elbow..wherever needed Best, A dart in the back arm hole…so men with 28 inch waists and high armpits with clean lean backs ie not bulky meat footballers and 6 foot tall etc fitted perfectly. Freedom. Karl Lagerfeld lost lots of weight so he could have a Heidi. I have put on 10 kegs because of vile corticosteroids for medically caused asthma, I was 56 kg on 5’6” …the heaviest I had been but perfectly lovely. I want to lose a few inches off my waist seeing how these fit and go back to roughly same size as Nicole.
Oh my god this is perfect timing - I was just about to try to draft a single-breasted waistcoat!!!!
Thank you so much! I am non-binary afab and just starting with getting into tailoring and historical dress because I've gotten fed up with never finding modern clothes I feel good in. This video is so incredibly helpful - so much of the info I've been craving!
I just want to stare at the book of swatches. I don't even sew. That book is so interesting and I'm very happy for you that you have it.
To see this easier could you try wearing a different color shirt, so that we can see the mock-up better. Many of us aren’t experienced sewers, and are in interested in learning. Thank you for calm demeanor
Wonderful. One day I will do this. one day. I love how at the time women's wear was trending slightly androgynous by taking out the curves in dresses but men's wear was also trending slightly androgynous by adding in curves to the tailoring.
Yes! I was thinking the same. There was a lovely and complimentary androgyny to both styles that I find interesting and elegant
Well this video hit many of my special interests: sewing, historical fashion, gorgeous people wearing suits...
My daughter's girlfriend is very much into the same styles you are sewing. I LOVE that she has a role model of someone who looks GREAT in men's clothes altered to fit well, Thank you !!!
Anyone else think the sound of those shears going through fabric is just glorious???
No? Just me?
I love the "snick snick" of shears moving through fabric.
Just want to say how much I love and appreciate menswear content. I've gotten sucked into the rabbithole of historical fashion videos, but yours are the first where I can be like "ooh. I want to wear that."
What I love about being a tailor is that nomatter how long you do this job there are always 'new' and interesting ways in sewing, when you watch other people do it. New techniques to you, different solutions to problems and so on! There is no day you don't learn something new. This video really sparked my inspiration on tackling a waistcoat or even a three piecer for myself. I am always a bit intimidated by 'rounder chests' than men usually have 😂🙈😂
I am in awe of the amount of preparation (fitting, re-adjusting, etc.) that is required to create a tailored vest even before cutting into that gorgeous fabric.
It's so satisfying to see you draft the pattern, I'm so used to see western sewers drape them. You moved the darts exactly like my sewing teacher. Love watching you make menswear, so many beautiful sewing techniques and the versatility show in the end is just a chef's kiss.
This is perfect timing! I've just been asked to be a groomslady for an art deco wedding!!
It looks SO GOOD
Now that sounds like a cool wedding!
Have fun :)
Congratulations I hope it went well!!!
Gatsby is all the rage for a reason ;)
This is tailoring at its very best. I am not a person who sews, but I'm learning what to look for in a properly created garment. Thank you so much for posting this!
I love that you went through HOW to do some of the mock-up changes. I think that mock-ups are super important, but sometimes I stare at the thing unaware of how to change it 👁️👄👁️
Oh my god I was just telling my friends that I was getting to a point where I was stumped because I couldn't find any good tutorials about how to make a waistcoat and how the canvas and everything works, and here you are with an amazing video that answers basically all of my questions! You're amazing, and I love your content.
As someone with a math learning disability watching something be drafted is like magic. I can do math but it's really easy for me to mess up (3 turns into 5 or 8, 4 becomes 9 or 7, and 2 likes to be 5 or 6 or 8) so I usually default to draping unless I'm using cheap fabric then I'll have a go at drafting.
When drafting a pattern, it is generally recommended to always make a mock-up in a cheap fabric anyway, regardless of whether you have dyscalculia.
I can commiserate. I mess up the math on literally every pattern. Ironically, for about six years I did a job which required an excessive amount of mathing and rarely messed that up... I can only assume it was the repetitive nature of it. And also, the fact that I worked solely in millimeters, which is the easiest to math.
@@rd6203
Working with only straight lines and mostly right angles might also help.
@@ragnkja Fact.
I kind of want to marry this video. Wonderful explanation of everything. Thank you so much! Can’t wait to sink my teeth into men’s fashions. Between you and Zack Pinsent, and Dandy Wellington I’m getting universal vibes that it is time.
It's great seeing women wearing men's fashion!!!! For a few reasons I often I shop in the the men's department. Your little dance at the end is divine.
It was a pleasure to watch a real artist at work.
I'm slowly but surely making more of my own clothing and this vest is just Goals! The video is so fantastic cause we get all the steps, even the awkward ones.
Your workmanship is so beautiful!
You have no idea how happy I am for you to make victorian men's garments. When you think of period clothing, there are only a few men into it and there aren't alot of male youtubers making tutorials for it. You have my subscription🙂
Holy crap that vest is amazing. I love the fabric choice.
this is exactly the content I NEED. I want to figure out how to make historical men's clothing to suit my nonbinary body and this is so helpful. thank you!!
Dapper! Please keep serving looks ❤️!
Wow!!! Absolutely gorgeous. This is the waistcoat of my dreams... I always wanted a tailored suit from the early 1920’s, as it’s one of my favorite eras for menswear. You look like a million bucks in it!! I’m definitely looking forward to the trousers. Much love, and see you soon!
Love, Love, Love! the more i watch you, the more i think eventually I'll actually do a mock up, instead of just following a pattern and hoping
This is one of my favorite fashion periods - men's and women's. Who watches Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries and just gobbles up everybody's clothing?? I don't know how accurate their costuming is, and they're more late vs early 20s, but I just can't get enough of it. And man, Dr Mac and all her fabulous menswear outfits! Those are the wonderful vibes I got from this video. Just love it.
I love the sound of scissors cutting thicker fabrics. Very nice curvature in the back. Well done Nicole.
I love how you talk about fitting a garment "my body is a different shape than the pattern expects" is inclusive in gender presentation and body positive! Thank you!
Ooo turning a vest right side out after attaching the back is the most magical satisfying witch craft. Love this video!
Fabulous, and thank you SO MUCH! Looking forward to the next installments!
Thank you so much for going through your entire fitting process! This is so often skimmed over, but it's exactly the kind of information I need at the current stage of my sewing journey. Even for a cis-dresser, this is incredibly useful!! Love your channel! ❤❤
The section about the welted pocket alone is worth its weight in gold! Thanks, most patterns give modern welting instructions and they just look wrong when finished.
You explained the 'fixing saggy bits' so well! thank you :)
Never has the Subscribe button been smashed so quickly. I took one look at this as a cravat-wearing AFAB enby and went absolutely hog wild. Thank you Nicole
this video is so helpful! I’m transmasculine and looking to get into historical dress, so it’s really reassuring to see men’s clothing patterns adapted to an AFAB body shape. gives me courage to make my own stuff!
My goodness that looks fantastic on you! Your videos are so motivating. I'm a person who likes to plan for ages and then power through the actual process of creating an item. Your videos show the creating also takes time to get the finish you want. Thank you for sharing so much of your process when making new items!
This vest looks amazing on you, it suits you perfectly ! Thank you for this video. I've nearly finished a vest myself. It's a contemporary pattern, with straps, but when I realised my interfacing wouldn't stick, I was like "that's ok, Nicole did it, so I can do it too" - just with a lot more time and really slowly. Doing this by hand, I learnt that pad stitching is really relaxing and satisfying. The regularity of the pattern was soothing. Now, I know I have two layers of tweed and one layer of linen canvas to go through to make buttonholes. Let's hope I don't mess them !
You're incredible. You don't cut corners just going all the way and create a perfect creation. Wow, fantastic. Thanks for another great lesson for me ♥️
Thank you so much for this!!! I am a butch lesbian that loves historical fashioning and gowns I just dont .... want to wear them and want to make things I can actually wear :) Instantly subscribed thank you so so much
Im working on the Hamilton Spencer, and you've filled in some of the gaps in my understanding the construction. Thank you!!!!!
Okay but that little dance at the end? 💖
What a handsome waistcoat! And many fantastic tips. Thank you very much for sharing!
Thank you! I have plans to make a modern suit for myself and your demo of the tailor's tape and interlining is really helpful
I love your fashion sense and style, you're such a huge inspiration as I find myself drawn to more "vintage" fashion and trying to figure out my own style. Thanks for this in-depth video about the process! Waistcoats are among my favorite things to wear. I'll definitely have to make my own.
I love how you show the pattern making and the mock-up process! That's the ones where I learn the most new things. Making a pattern fit is always tricky, so glad to get some new insights on how to think.
I love how the lapel sits on this waistcoat, it's just perfect, especially combined with the thoughtful tailoring, I imagine that the tailor's tape is to thank for how the lapel looks just nicely weighted and very crisp. Thank you for a very informative video. It really does look like a menswear waistcoat, the proportions are just right, you'd never know it wasn't if it weren't for the video telling us otherwise. I've been doing battle with a waistcoat that had some weird fit issues recently and couldn't figure out what was going on with the gaping at the neckline and lower portion of the armhole at the front, I had suspected it was something amiss with the pattern I made and this video really does prove that and what I actually need to adjust rather than what I thought I did. Back to the drawing board on that one to correct everything north of the side seam since I can understand now where the shape is wrong for my body.
I really appreciate the time you take to explain to us how things are done and why.
Vests/waistcoats are just the most amazing garment and they need to come back into Style for men and women!!!
Watches that only tell time have literally become nothing but a fashion accessory at this point anyway. So if we brought back the vest... we could bring back pocket watches and that would be amazing! In the age of 3D printers imagine how absolutely amazing pocket watches would be?
This is such a good video. The vest turned out just fantastic, and the descriptions of how to fix the various fit problems were so well-explained. That wool has such a lovely weight to it!
I may have only finished my first ever garment real badly but I can dream about doing this 😂
I've been sewing professionally for theatre fir over ten years, and your channel is justjfurther proof that there's always something new to learn. Thanks so much for the detailed fitting content, and also thanks for showing me a completely different way to do a welt!
I, feminine lady, love historical sewing, but like others on this thread, prefer a masculine flair to my style, so I too hope this comment guides the algorithm.
Thanks again so much for this resource!
Pairing that vest with the skirt was lovely! Very nicely done, Nicole!
I am thriving for this content
This is fascinating. I'm working on a summer suit from the early twenties (I was lucky enough to score an original Butterick men's trousers pattern from ca. 1919, and I'm basing it around that). The vest is next (though my drafting skills are poor), so this is very helpful. Looking forward to the next installments!
I'm not yet ready for drafting but getting better.. There are a lot of repro pattern companies out there like Laughing Moon, Black Snail..etsy
Really great video, it was easy to follow the different steps and I really appreciate that you show the drafting and fitting process! And the finished product looks so dashing! 💕
This is really fascinating! I'm thinking of trying to make some masculine historical fashions myself at some point in the near future (I've only made historical feminine garments) so this is a super helpful video.
I don't sew and, quite frankly, don't even understand half of what you say when you're describing what you're doing, but I freaking love watching you sew! It's like watching someone perform magic (even though you tell and show us precisely how you did it)
That vest is banging and I can't wait to watch you make the rest of the suit!
As (insert unnecessary self identification here) this is great.
In all seriousness, I'm pretty glad I found this video. I'm deep in a UA-cam rabbit hole and your video is perfect for it.
THE VIBES. Also, as always, loving the ASMR bits. Love the pattern matching of the lining/back and main fabric. All around wonderful job and it looks so good on you.
This has come out fantastically!! Looks phenomenal 👌😍
this is really one of the best videos on youtube, for a number of reasons, but I'm here to say THANK YOU for explaining how you did the lining!! it made so much sense and sounds so simple! and your hand-stitching is beautiful to watch!
It's amazing how many different ways there are to make up a waistcoat. Thank you very much for showing and explaining this method to us
Amazing! it fits you perfectly, but still looks distinctly masculine.
The fit you achieved is SOOOOO GOOOOOD!
Glorioski! thanks for the link to Progressive Tailor. I didn't actually need to be reading hundred year old news letters but it's so cool and it's still a great idea to have two pairs of trousers made with a new suit.
another knock out Nicole! Not sure if i'm more obsessed with that lining fabric or your dancing!
Thanks Nicole! You always describe things so well! Beautiful Fabrics and wonderful finished products!
The finishing is amazing and you look so so good in the finished outfit! Work it!!
Your work is such a joy to watch, keep em coming!
Lovely description of the use of tailors tape, the bridle was described perfectly. I enjoyed this one so much.
Birdy
Looks amazing and talking about fitting was really helpful. A lot of the more feminine historical fashions aren't my style, so looking forward to the outfit for inspiration :)
This looks absolutely stunning!!! I am very interested in tailoring but it just seems like such a high art... I love that with every video I watch I gain another tiny insight into the world of tailoring. Today you taught me about tailor's tape, which I had never heard of before, so THANK YOU!! My next project will probably already be improved by a lot now :)
I suppose most people are not shaped like the "ideal" for any period, but I am particularly short and thick. My waist is certainly a few inches bigger than it ought to be, but I am also incredibly barrel chested. With narrow shoulders and short arms but a thick chest, the only clothing that really fits are tailored garments. While I lived in Kenya, I found a really good tailor at an affordable price, but off-the-rack vests here in the US are too long and narrow for me. This video has given me courage to take one of the store-bought vests apart to see if I can let it out a bit.
You look so dashing in this suit. 😍 This suit is goals!!!!
What a lovely jacket! Perfect blend of menswear fit and tailoring to fit your shape.
Snazzy! You are the cats pyjamas in this suit. You and Abby are on a roll this week with how informative you have been. That tweed is fabulous. I had a favourite jacket of the same fabric that was donated after many years of love when I outgrew it after 25 years.
First time here, and loved the video, I'm a very curvy gay male and making my own regency style suit which mirrors this men's wear 1920 American styles, and you helping me to figure out measurements for curves but masculine is what's needed for this very niche design, and anyone else loving how us LGBTQIA is bringing back homemade, fancy wear
I loved your approach to fitting this and the result looks great! So much sass and style. Also love watching someone skilled make something awesome out of beautiful materials.
Holy cricket Nicole, this is absolutely stunning! You've given me new goals on making a properly tailored suit for my husband (got to improve my sewing first lol. I'm just starting out on that journey). Holy guacamole batman. I can't wait to see how you do the trousers of this suit so that maybe I can take that and use it to help figure out pants for me lol.
It's amazing how much I learn by simply watching you work through the process. Adjusting the toile while it is on your own body and not a mannequin isn't easy, but you sure do make it look like it is! Thank you for not adding superfluous music over the lovely thread-thru-fabric sounds (ASMR gold). And thank you for explaining your process without being condescending.
Nicole you are a life saver with these menswear clothing videos! Tysm for this!
That thing is absolutely gorgeous! Now I want to make myself a waistcoat.
I'm SO glad you do men's wear.
YT is lacking of historical men's wear/costuber thank you for treating this subject ^^
My butch partners thank you for this video, and me too! ; ) It's time for me to branch out to the scary world of men's tailoring (aaah!) for their AFAB bodies. This was such a helpful video. I even picked up a number of fitting/dart tips that extend across the gender spectrum for all clothes for any of us with chest sizes of note.
Love this! I am altering a coat for a friend and your welt pocket explanation was a light bulb moment, Thank you!