just wanted to mention how much I appreciate that you do men's fashion as well! so much historical fashion content is extremely rigidly feminine (it's not a problem, just nice to have some variety)
This whole video is beautiful for many reasons, but I very truly, deeply, and sincerely appreciate that you actually showed the process of trying on the mock up on your body (not a dress form), addressing the fit issues by yourself (no helper pinning things for you), then transferring the changes to the pattern and doing the process over again with the second mock up. That was some of the most useful and relatable youtube sewing content I've seen. Thank you.
I hope to! I just need to spread them out a bit since they're usually don't perform well (I think this is because there aren't very many videos like this and yt doesn't know what to do with them, not because low popularity)
@@NicoleRudolph Honestly, as a guy with a boyfriend who likes to dress in 1880s-1930s clothes... This is gold! Even when shown on a female body it's still content I can use. (Because funnily enough nobody - not even my boyfriend - has a body that conforms perfectly to a sewing pattern.)
Vests/waistcoats are just the most amazing garment and they need to come back into Style for men and women!!! Watches that only tell time have literally become nothing but a fashion accessory at this point anyway. So if we brought back the vest... we could bring back pocket watches and that would be amazing! In the age of 3D printers imagine how absolutely amazing pocket watches would be?
As a nonbinary female person with a love of historical menswear, this is basically my perfect youtube content, and it's so hard to find stuff like this. Thank you!
I was just about to comment pretty much exactly the same thing XD It is very difficult to find historic garments that I want to wear and will also fit me and make me feel comfy. This project is the most absolute perfect thing ever!
Describing with words how to remove fullness in a garment by using darts, or moving fullness from one dart to another, seems tricky to me, but you did it so clearly! And being able to then see the changes you make on the pattern, and how that changes the fit of the mock-up is so helpful for us visual learners!
This is how it’s done, darts are wonderful. The bust dart we use on women starts as a dart between the neck and shoulder and is transferred as she did it, or wherever wanted. Adjusting on the body by someone who gets it is magical. I loved seeing the management of the bulk at the front armhole, an extreme horror for me…I sew and my sewing teacher is well trained but has not this mental fluidity…I have made suits inder her supervision and stopped because of the fabric excess on the armhole. I felt like the bachelor from Prague having a bust, a C cup. The garment should fit the body perfectly to the armhole, and the arm on the body is separate so the arm of the garment should fit neatly on the armhole and let you move freely. Heidi Slimane working on men’s wear 20 years ago did the most beautiful jeans, made perfect bottoms…with the curve, perfect fit, and suits with darts on the shoulder back, in the elbow..wherever needed Best, A dart in the back arm hole…so men with 28 inch waists and high armpits with clean lean backs ie not bulky meat footballers and 6 foot tall etc fitted perfectly. Freedom. Karl Lagerfeld lost lots of weight so he could have a Heidi. I have put on 10 kegs because of vile corticosteroids for medically caused asthma, I was 56 kg on 5’6” …the heaviest I had been but perfectly lovely. I want to lose a few inches off my waist seeing how these fit and go back to roughly same size as Nicole.
Thank you, thank you, for showing that iterative fitting process. I always feel like I must be incompetent when I see folks jump straight from drafting a pattern to cutting the final fabric.
You're incredible. You don't cut corners just going all the way and create a perfect creation. Wow, fantastic. Thanks for another great lesson for me ♥️
My daughter's girlfriend is very much into the same styles you are sewing. I LOVE that she has a role model of someone who looks GREAT in men's clothes altered to fit well, Thank you !!!
Nicole's channel is a an absolute godsend for those of us with these wardrobe aspirations. I quite like watching people sew up amazing feminine historical clothing, but I don't want to wear it. Nicole sews things I can actually see myself wearing.
As a gay man who likes to dress my gender - but dress up a little - I suspect I could probably share an aspirational wardrobe with you. And a good waistcoat will accentuate a waist, shoulders, anything you want to, really... What person on earth wouldn't want that?
It's great seeing women wearing men's fashion!!!! For a few reasons I often I shop in the the men's department. Your little dance at the end is divine.
Just want to say how much I love and appreciate menswear content. I've gotten sucked into the rabbithole of historical fashion videos, but yours are the first where I can be like "ooh. I want to wear that."
Wonderful. One day I will do this. one day. I love how at the time women's wear was trending slightly androgynous by taking out the curves in dresses but men's wear was also trending slightly androgynous by adding in curves to the tailoring.
It's so satisfying to see you draft the pattern, I'm so used to see western sewers drape them. You moved the darts exactly like my sewing teacher. Love watching you make menswear, so many beautiful sewing techniques and the versatility show in the end is just a chef's kiss.
To see this easier could you try wearing a different color shirt, so that we can see the mock-up better. Many of us aren’t experienced sewers, and are in interested in learning. Thank you for calm demeanor
I'm slowly but surely making more of my own clothing and this vest is just Goals! The video is so fantastic cause we get all the steps, even the awkward ones.
I am in awe of the amount of preparation (fitting, re-adjusting, etc.) that is required to create a tailored vest even before cutting into that gorgeous fabric.
This is so incredibly useful as a trans man who loves 20s fashion. Men's vests and such don't quite fit me right because I'm pre-t and still have curves. I've been wanting to make up my own suit and so this is perfect, I want the suit to *fit* me, but to still look like a men's suit.
Been on t 10 years/post top, and I still have curves! Lol I think at this point its just a matter of needing to lose some pounds, but learning how to tailor a suit to fit and also give more masculine look is so great!
I don't sew and, quite frankly, don't even understand half of what you say when you're describing what you're doing, but I freaking love watching you sew! It's like watching someone perform magic (even though you tell and show us precisely how you did it) That vest is banging and I can't wait to watch you make the rest of the suit!
This is tailoring at its very best. I am not a person who sews, but I'm learning what to look for in a properly created garment. Thank you so much for posting this!
Thank you so much! I am non-binary afab and just starting with getting into tailoring and historical dress because I've gotten fed up with never finding modern clothes I feel good in. This video is so incredibly helpful - so much of the info I've been craving!
What I love about being a tailor is that nomatter how long you do this job there are always 'new' and interesting ways in sewing, when you watch other people do it. New techniques to you, different solutions to problems and so on! There is no day you don't learn something new. This video really sparked my inspiration on tackling a waistcoat or even a three piecer for myself. I am always a bit intimidated by 'rounder chests' than men usually have 😂🙈😂
I suppose most people are not shaped like the "ideal" for any period, but I am particularly short and thick. My waist is certainly a few inches bigger than it ought to be, but I am also incredibly barrel chested. With narrow shoulders and short arms but a thick chest, the only clothing that really fits are tailored garments. While I lived in Kenya, I found a really good tailor at an affordable price, but off-the-rack vests here in the US are too long and narrow for me. This video has given me courage to take one of the store-bought vests apart to see if I can let it out a bit.
This was wonderful to watch, I love hand stitching and to make this way is like a wicked pleasure.it’s so cute, you have a remarkable shape, the bottom of the pants and the fit of the vest at the back is beautiful. I love this tweed. Such a good colour too, one I could wear. Deep and rich with the softness that hand stitching gives on wool especially tweed which could be hand loomed.
Thank you so much for going through your entire fitting process! This is so often skimmed over, but it's exactly the kind of information I need at the current stage of my sewing journey. Even for a cis-dresser, this is incredibly useful!! Love your channel! ❤❤
Oh my god I was just telling my friends that I was getting to a point where I was stumped because I couldn't find any good tutorials about how to make a waistcoat and how the canvas and everything works, and here you are with an amazing video that answers basically all of my questions! You're amazing, and I love your content.
I kind of want to marry this video. Wonderful explanation of everything. Thank you so much! Can’t wait to sink my teeth into men’s fashions. Between you and Zack Pinsent, and Dandy Wellington I’m getting universal vibes that it is time.
I've been sewing professionally for theatre fir over ten years, and your channel is justjfurther proof that there's always something new to learn. Thanks so much for the detailed fitting content, and also thanks for showing me a completely different way to do a welt! I, feminine lady, love historical sewing, but like others on this thread, prefer a masculine flair to my style, so I too hope this comment guides the algorithm. Thanks again so much for this resource!
I love how you talk about fitting a garment "my body is a different shape than the pattern expects" is inclusive in gender presentation and body positive! Thank you!
I love that you went through HOW to do some of the mock-up changes. I think that mock-ups are super important, but sometimes I stare at the thing unaware of how to change it 👁️👄👁️
Oh my goodness, I was just telling someone that I want to wear 1920s clothes a few days ago! This is such a perfectly timed video, what a happy coincidence! Thank you for making this. As a pre-transition trans man, your video means so much to me!
this is exactly the content I NEED. I want to figure out how to make historical men's clothing to suit my nonbinary body and this is so helpful. thank you!!
The section about the welted pocket alone is worth its weight in gold! Thanks, most patterns give modern welting instructions and they just look wrong when finished.
I love how you show the pattern making and the mock-up process! That's the ones where I learn the most new things. Making a pattern fit is always tricky, so glad to get some new insights on how to think.
You have no idea how happy I am for you to make victorian men's garments. When you think of period clothing, there are only a few men into it and there aren't alot of male youtubers making tutorials for it. You have my subscription🙂
My goodness that looks fantastic on you! Your videos are so motivating. I'm a person who likes to plan for ages and then power through the actual process of creating an item. Your videos show the creating also takes time to get the finish you want. Thank you for sharing so much of your process when making new items!
This is one of my favorite fashion periods - men's and women's. Who watches Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries and just gobbles up everybody's clothing?? I don't know how accurate their costuming is, and they're more late vs early 20s, but I just can't get enough of it. And man, Dr Mac and all her fabulous menswear outfits! Those are the wonderful vibes I got from this video. Just love it.
Wow!!! Absolutely gorgeous. This is the waistcoat of my dreams... I always wanted a tailored suit from the early 1920’s, as it’s one of my favorite eras for menswear. You look like a million bucks in it!! I’m definitely looking forward to the trousers. Much love, and see you soon!
Never has the Subscribe button been smashed so quickly. I took one look at this as a cravat-wearing AFAB enby and went absolutely hog wild. Thank you Nicole
Thank you so much for making this. It is so clear and informative. I want to make exactly this shape of waistcoat and was not sure how I would find a vaguely suitable pattern, let alone how I could alter it to fit myself (I don't know the proper sewing terms to search with) but your video is exactly what I need! The video is also lovely and relaxing to watch. I thought I would skip through to see the end but I watched the whole thing as it was just so pleasant. Also you look incredible in the finished garment, and the outfits you have made with it.
Really great video, it was easy to follow the different steps and I really appreciate that you show the drafting and fitting process! And the finished product looks so dashing! 💕
This vest looks amazing on you, it suits you perfectly ! Thank you for this video. I've nearly finished a vest myself. It's a contemporary pattern, with straps, but when I realised my interfacing wouldn't stick, I was like "that's ok, Nicole did it, so I can do it too" - just with a lot more time and really slowly. Doing this by hand, I learnt that pad stitching is really relaxing and satisfying. The regularity of the pattern was soothing. Now, I know I have two layers of tweed and one layer of linen canvas to go through to make buttonholes. Let's hope I don't mess them !
I love how the lapel sits on this waistcoat, it's just perfect, especially combined with the thoughtful tailoring, I imagine that the tailor's tape is to thank for how the lapel looks just nicely weighted and very crisp. Thank you for a very informative video. It really does look like a menswear waistcoat, the proportions are just right, you'd never know it wasn't if it weren't for the video telling us otherwise. I've been doing battle with a waistcoat that had some weird fit issues recently and couldn't figure out what was going on with the gaping at the neckline and lower portion of the armhole at the front, I had suspected it was something amiss with the pattern I made and this video really does prove that and what I actually need to adjust rather than what I thought I did. Back to the drawing board on that one to correct everything north of the side seam since I can understand now where the shape is wrong for my body. I really appreciate the time you take to explain to us how things are done and why.
I love your fashion sense and style, you're such a huge inspiration as I find myself drawn to more "vintage" fashion and trying to figure out my own style. Thanks for this in-depth video about the process! Waistcoats are among my favorite things to wear. I'll definitely have to make my own.
As someone with a math learning disability watching something be drafted is like magic. I can do math but it's really easy for me to mess up (3 turns into 5 or 8, 4 becomes 9 or 7, and 2 likes to be 5 or 6 or 8) so I usually default to draping unless I'm using cheap fabric then I'll have a go at drafting.
I can commiserate. I mess up the math on literally every pattern. Ironically, for about six years I did a job which required an excessive amount of mathing and rarely messed that up... I can only assume it was the repetitive nature of it. And also, the fact that I worked solely in millimeters, which is the easiest to math.
this is really one of the best videos on youtube, for a number of reasons, but I'm here to say THANK YOU for explaining how you did the lining!! it made so much sense and sounds so simple! and your hand-stitching is beautiful to watch!
This is such a good video. The vest turned out just fantastic, and the descriptions of how to fix the various fit problems were so well-explained. That wool has such a lovely weight to it!
This is fascinating. I'm working on a summer suit from the early twenties (I was lucky enough to score an original Butterick men's trousers pattern from ca. 1919, and I'm basing it around that). The vest is next (though my drafting skills are poor), so this is very helpful. Looking forward to the next installments!
My first thought absolutely wasn't "I'm gay" - honey, I first had that thought decades ago... - but it does look great on her. And I think it would look great on quite a lot of women, men and anything else, really. The tweed is great.
This looks absolutely stunning!!! I am very interested in tailoring but it just seems like such a high art... I love that with every video I watch I gain another tiny insight into the world of tailoring. Today you taught me about tailor's tape, which I had never heard of before, so THANK YOU!! My next project will probably already be improved by a lot now :)
It's amazing how much I learn by simply watching you work through the process. Adjusting the toile while it is on your own body and not a mannequin isn't easy, but you sure do make it look like it is! Thank you for not adding superfluous music over the lovely thread-thru-fabric sounds (ASMR gold). And thank you for explaining your process without being condescending.
This is really fascinating! I'm thinking of trying to make some masculine historical fashions myself at some point in the near future (I've only made historical feminine garments) so this is a super helpful video.
Looking absolutely dapper and the dancing at the gave me a huge smile. I really enjoyed watching you put in the lining. That tends to be a very difficult part for me.
I loved your approach to fitting this and the result looks great! So much sass and style. Also love watching someone skilled make something awesome out of beautiful materials.
THE VIBES. Also, as always, loving the ASMR bits. Love the pattern matching of the lining/back and main fabric. All around wonderful job and it looks so good on you.
GOALS!!! thank you for this great video :) I wanna make myself a vest like that but I just started sewing recently. can`t wait to accumulate all the skills be able to do this
Snazzy! You are the cats pyjamas in this suit. You and Abby are on a roll this week with how informative you have been. That tweed is fabulous. I had a favourite jacket of the same fabric that was donated after many years of love when I outgrew it after 25 years.
just wanted to mention how much I appreciate that you do men's fashion as well! so much historical fashion content is extremely rigidly feminine (it's not a problem, just nice to have some variety)
This whole video is beautiful for many reasons, but I very truly, deeply, and sincerely appreciate that you actually showed the process of trying on the mock up on your body (not a dress form), addressing the fit issues by yourself (no helper pinning things for you), then transferring the changes to the pattern and doing the process over again with the second mock up. That was some of the most useful and relatable youtube sewing content I've seen. Thank you.
It was a pleasure to watch a real artist at work.
Could you please do more videos on tailoring mens wear? There is just not enough videos on historic menswear on youtube!
I hope to! I just need to spread them out a bit since they're usually don't perform well (I think this is because there aren't very many videos like this and yt doesn't know what to do with them, not because low popularity)
@@NicoleRudolph Bigger thanks! Even more for bringing what you already knew wouldn't perform as well -- just for those of us starved for it!
@@NicoleRudolph leaving a comment to hopefully help with visibility for the algorithm!
@@NicoleRudolph Honestly, as a guy with a boyfriend who likes to dress in 1880s-1930s clothes... This is gold! Even when shown on a female body it's still content I can use. (Because funnily enough nobody - not even my boyfriend - has a body that conforms perfectly to a sewing pattern.)
@@rdb4996 Good point! And I'm basically just leaving this comment here to show "engagement" with the content.
It’s like magic happening. Bertie Wooster would be proud to step out in that!
More to the point, Jeeves would approve! 💚
Oh wow! Your “giant book of tailor’s swatches” is such an amazing asset! What a goldmine of information that must be 😁
Vests/waistcoats are just the most amazing garment and they need to come back into Style for men and women!!!
Watches that only tell time have literally become nothing but a fashion accessory at this point anyway. So if we brought back the vest... we could bring back pocket watches and that would be amazing! In the age of 3D printers imagine how absolutely amazing pocket watches would be?
Ooo turning a vest right side out after attaching the back is the most magical satisfying witch craft. Love this video!
As a nonbinary female person with a love of historical menswear, this is basically my perfect youtube content, and it's so hard to find stuff like this. Thank you!
I was just about to comment pretty much exactly the same thing XD
It is very difficult to find historic garments that I want to wear and will also fit me and make me feel comfy. This project is the most absolute perfect thing ever!
Hey nonbinary historical fashion gang
Enby historical fashion squad!
Nonbinary folk here we go! Nicole looks so good in that waistcoat too 🥺🥺
Non-binary female? Isn’t that an oxymoron?
Describing with words how to remove fullness in a garment by using darts, or moving fullness from one dart to another, seems tricky to me, but you did it so clearly! And being able to then see the changes you make on the pattern, and how that changes the fit of the mock-up is so helpful for us visual learners!
its just as mind breaking when you do a dart shift like that. it like wait i can do that!??
This is how it’s done, darts are wonderful. The bust dart we use on women starts as a dart between the neck and shoulder and is transferred as she did it, or wherever wanted. Adjusting on the body by someone who gets it is magical. I loved seeing the management of the bulk at the front armhole, an extreme horror for me…I sew and my sewing teacher is well trained but has not this mental fluidity…I have made suits inder her supervision and stopped because of the fabric excess on the armhole. I felt like the bachelor from Prague having a bust, a C cup. The garment should fit the body perfectly to the armhole, and the arm on the body is separate so the arm of the garment should fit neatly on the armhole and let you move freely.
Heidi Slimane working on men’s wear 20 years ago did the most beautiful jeans, made perfect bottoms…with the curve, perfect fit, and suits with darts on the shoulder back, in the elbow..wherever needed Best, A dart in the back arm hole…so men with 28 inch waists and high armpits with clean lean backs ie not bulky meat footballers and 6 foot tall etc fitted perfectly. Freedom. Karl Lagerfeld lost lots of weight so he could have a Heidi. I have put on 10 kegs because of vile corticosteroids for medically caused asthma, I was 56 kg on 5’6” …the heaviest I had been but perfectly lovely. I want to lose a few inches off my waist seeing how these fit and go back to roughly same size as Nicole.
Thank you, thank you, for showing that iterative fitting process. I always feel like I must be incompetent when I see folks jump straight from drafting a pattern to cutting the final fabric.
Even professional tailors like to fit a mock-up first.
You're incredible. You don't cut corners just going all the way and create a perfect creation. Wow, fantastic. Thanks for another great lesson for me ♥️
My daughter's girlfriend is very much into the same styles you are sewing. I LOVE that she has a role model of someone who looks GREAT in men's clothes altered to fit well, Thank you !!!
as a lesbian whose aspirational wardrobe could be described as "soft butch but make it historical," I am LIVING for this menswear content
Also, the model of these fashions is a hottie! I mean, let’s just say it!
Nicole's channel is a an absolute godsend for those of us with these wardrobe aspirations. I quite like watching people sew up amazing feminine historical clothing, but I don't want to wear it. Nicole sews things I can actually see myself wearing.
As a gay man who likes to dress my gender - but dress up a little - I suspect I could probably share an aspirational wardrobe with you.
And a good waistcoat will accentuate a waist, shoulders, anything you want to, really... What person on earth wouldn't want that?
What do you call an alligator with a vest?
An investigator.
Crap
It's great seeing women wearing men's fashion!!!! For a few reasons I often I shop in the the men's department. Your little dance at the end is divine.
Anyone else think the sound of those shears going through fabric is just glorious???
No? Just me?
I love the "snick snick" of shears moving through fabric.
Just want to say how much I love and appreciate menswear content. I've gotten sucked into the rabbithole of historical fashion videos, but yours are the first where I can be like "ooh. I want to wear that."
I just want to stare at the book of swatches. I don't even sew. That book is so interesting and I'm very happy for you that you have it.
Wonderful. One day I will do this. one day. I love how at the time women's wear was trending slightly androgynous by taking out the curves in dresses but men's wear was also trending slightly androgynous by adding in curves to the tailoring.
Yes! I was thinking the same. There was a lovely and complimentary androgyny to both styles that I find interesting and elegant
It's so satisfying to see you draft the pattern, I'm so used to see western sewers drape them. You moved the darts exactly like my sewing teacher. Love watching you make menswear, so many beautiful sewing techniques and the versatility show in the end is just a chef's kiss.
Oh my god this is perfect timing - I was just about to try to draft a single-breasted waistcoat!!!!
To see this easier could you try wearing a different color shirt, so that we can see the mock-up better. Many of us aren’t experienced sewers, and are in interested in learning. Thank you for calm demeanor
I'm slowly but surely making more of my own clothing and this vest is just Goals! The video is so fantastic cause we get all the steps, even the awkward ones.
If I could do this I think I would live at the sewing machine you are amazing!!!!!
Well this video hit many of my special interests: sewing, historical fashion, gorgeous people wearing suits...
I am in awe of the amount of preparation (fitting, re-adjusting, etc.) that is required to create a tailored vest even before cutting into that gorgeous fabric.
This is so incredibly useful as a trans man who loves 20s fashion. Men's vests and such don't quite fit me right because I'm pre-t and still have curves. I've been wanting to make up my own suit and so this is perfect, I want the suit to *fit* me, but to still look like a men's suit.
I hope this is not inappropriate, but just wanted to say that I hope you can fully transition soon. Good luck on the remainder of your journey ❤️
Same, friendo! Same! Now, I just need the skills to do this! xD
Been on t 10 years/post top, and I still have curves! Lol I think at this point its just a matter of needing to lose some pounds, but learning how to tailor a suit to fit and also give more masculine look is so great!
I don't sew and, quite frankly, don't even understand half of what you say when you're describing what you're doing, but I freaking love watching you sew! It's like watching someone perform magic (even though you tell and show us precisely how you did it)
That vest is banging and I can't wait to watch you make the rest of the suit!
This is tailoring at its very best. I am not a person who sews, but I'm learning what to look for in a properly created garment. Thank you so much for posting this!
Thank you so much! I am non-binary afab and just starting with getting into tailoring and historical dress because I've gotten fed up with never finding modern clothes I feel good in. This video is so incredibly helpful - so much of the info I've been craving!
What I love about being a tailor is that nomatter how long you do this job there are always 'new' and interesting ways in sewing, when you watch other people do it. New techniques to you, different solutions to problems and so on! There is no day you don't learn something new. This video really sparked my inspiration on tackling a waistcoat or even a three piecer for myself. I am always a bit intimidated by 'rounder chests' than men usually have 😂🙈😂
I suppose most people are not shaped like the "ideal" for any period, but I am particularly short and thick. My waist is certainly a few inches bigger than it ought to be, but I am also incredibly barrel chested. With narrow shoulders and short arms but a thick chest, the only clothing that really fits are tailored garments. While I lived in Kenya, I found a really good tailor at an affordable price, but off-the-rack vests here in the US are too long and narrow for me. This video has given me courage to take one of the store-bought vests apart to see if I can let it out a bit.
Your workmanship is so beautiful!
Love, Love, Love! the more i watch you, the more i think eventually I'll actually do a mock up, instead of just following a pattern and hoping
This was wonderful to watch, I love hand stitching and to make this way is like a wicked pleasure.it’s so cute, you have a remarkable shape, the bottom of the pants and the fit of the vest at the back is beautiful. I love this tweed. Such a good colour too, one I could wear. Deep and rich with the softness that hand stitching gives on wool especially tweed which could be hand loomed.
Outstanding video! Very well done, liked your explanations, great results, Thank you.
Thank you so much for going through your entire fitting process! This is so often skimmed over, but it's exactly the kind of information I need at the current stage of my sewing journey. Even for a cis-dresser, this is incredibly useful!! Love your channel! ❤❤
Oh my god I was just telling my friends that I was getting to a point where I was stumped because I couldn't find any good tutorials about how to make a waistcoat and how the canvas and everything works, and here you are with an amazing video that answers basically all of my questions! You're amazing, and I love your content.
Holy crap that vest is amazing. I love the fabric choice.
I kind of want to marry this video. Wonderful explanation of everything. Thank you so much! Can’t wait to sink my teeth into men’s fashions. Between you and Zack Pinsent, and Dandy Wellington I’m getting universal vibes that it is time.
I've been sewing professionally for theatre fir over ten years, and your channel is justjfurther proof that there's always something new to learn. Thanks so much for the detailed fitting content, and also thanks for showing me a completely different way to do a welt!
I, feminine lady, love historical sewing, but like others on this thread, prefer a masculine flair to my style, so I too hope this comment guides the algorithm.
Thanks again so much for this resource!
I love the sound of scissors cutting thicker fabrics. Very nice curvature in the back. Well done Nicole.
I love how you talk about fitting a garment "my body is a different shape than the pattern expects" is inclusive in gender presentation and body positive! Thank you!
Amazing! it fits you perfectly, but still looks distinctly masculine.
Thank you! I have plans to make a modern suit for myself and your demo of the tailor's tape and interlining is really helpful
Fabulous, and thank you SO MUCH! Looking forward to the next installments!
I love that you went through HOW to do some of the mock-up changes. I think that mock-ups are super important, but sometimes I stare at the thing unaware of how to change it 👁️👄👁️
Oh my goodness, I was just telling someone that I want to wear 1920s clothes a few days ago! This is such a perfectly timed video, what a happy coincidence! Thank you for making this. As a pre-transition trans man, your video means so much to me!
this is exactly the content I NEED. I want to figure out how to make historical men's clothing to suit my nonbinary body and this is so helpful. thank you!!
You explained the 'fixing saggy bits' so well! thank you :)
Another great video, there's so much to learn on your Channel :)
The section about the welted pocket alone is worth its weight in gold! Thanks, most patterns give modern welting instructions and they just look wrong when finished.
it looks very flattering and classy on you!
I love how you show the pattern making and the mock-up process! That's the ones where I learn the most new things. Making a pattern fit is always tricky, so glad to get some new insights on how to think.
What a handsome waistcoat! And many fantastic tips. Thank you very much for sharing!
You have no idea how happy I am for you to make victorian men's garments. When you think of period clothing, there are only a few men into it and there aren't alot of male youtubers making tutorials for it. You have my subscription🙂
My goodness that looks fantastic on you! Your videos are so motivating. I'm a person who likes to plan for ages and then power through the actual process of creating an item. Your videos show the creating also takes time to get the finish you want. Thank you for sharing so much of your process when making new items!
Ahhh! It turned out fantastic! Thanks as for sharing.
This is one of my favorite fashion periods - men's and women's. Who watches Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries and just gobbles up everybody's clothing?? I don't know how accurate their costuming is, and they're more late vs early 20s, but I just can't get enough of it. And man, Dr Mac and all her fabulous menswear outfits! Those are the wonderful vibes I got from this video. Just love it.
Wow!!! Absolutely gorgeous. This is the waistcoat of my dreams... I always wanted a tailored suit from the early 1920’s, as it’s one of my favorite eras for menswear. You look like a million bucks in it!! I’m definitely looking forward to the trousers. Much love, and see you soon!
Im working on the Hamilton Spencer, and you've filled in some of the gaps in my understanding the construction. Thank you!!!!!
Never has the Subscribe button been smashed so quickly. I took one look at this as a cravat-wearing AFAB enby and went absolutely hog wild. Thank you Nicole
Dapper! Please keep serving looks ❤️!
It looks so good. I love vests but I find the commercially produced ones just never fit quite right. Yours looks amazing
This is perfect timing! I've just been asked to be a groomslady for an art deco wedding!!
It looks SO GOOD
Now that sounds like a cool wedding!
Have fun :)
Congratulations I hope it went well!!!
Gatsby is all the rage for a reason ;)
Thank you so much for making this. It is so clear and informative. I want to make exactly this shape of waistcoat and was not sure how I would find a vaguely suitable pattern, let alone how I could alter it to fit myself (I don't know the proper sewing terms to search with) but your video is exactly what I need!
The video is also lovely and relaxing to watch. I thought I would skip through to see the end but I watched the whole thing as it was just so pleasant.
Also you look incredible in the finished garment, and the outfits you have made with it.
It's amazing how many different ways there are to make up a waistcoat. Thank you very much for showing and explaining this method to us
Really great video, it was easy to follow the different steps and I really appreciate that you show the drafting and fitting process! And the finished product looks so dashing! 💕
This vest looks amazing on you, it suits you perfectly ! Thank you for this video. I've nearly finished a vest myself. It's a contemporary pattern, with straps, but when I realised my interfacing wouldn't stick, I was like "that's ok, Nicole did it, so I can do it too" - just with a lot more time and really slowly. Doing this by hand, I learnt that pad stitching is really relaxing and satisfying. The regularity of the pattern was soothing. Now, I know I have two layers of tweed and one layer of linen canvas to go through to make buttonholes. Let's hope I don't mess them !
I love how the lapel sits on this waistcoat, it's just perfect, especially combined with the thoughtful tailoring, I imagine that the tailor's tape is to thank for how the lapel looks just nicely weighted and very crisp. Thank you for a very informative video. It really does look like a menswear waistcoat, the proportions are just right, you'd never know it wasn't if it weren't for the video telling us otherwise. I've been doing battle with a waistcoat that had some weird fit issues recently and couldn't figure out what was going on with the gaping at the neckline and lower portion of the armhole at the front, I had suspected it was something amiss with the pattern I made and this video really does prove that and what I actually need to adjust rather than what I thought I did. Back to the drawing board on that one to correct everything north of the side seam since I can understand now where the shape is wrong for my body.
I really appreciate the time you take to explain to us how things are done and why.
Crisp and nice!!!! Great with the dance at the end!
I love your fashion sense and style, you're such a huge inspiration as I find myself drawn to more "vintage" fashion and trying to figure out my own style. Thanks for this in-depth video about the process! Waistcoats are among my favorite things to wear. I'll definitely have to make my own.
Love this vest!!! Amazing! Just wish I could sew like that😜
This is sooo interesting! Thank you so much for all this work : it's a pleasure to watch and learn! 🤩
As someone with a math learning disability watching something be drafted is like magic. I can do math but it's really easy for me to mess up (3 turns into 5 or 8, 4 becomes 9 or 7, and 2 likes to be 5 or 6 or 8) so I usually default to draping unless I'm using cheap fabric then I'll have a go at drafting.
When drafting a pattern, it is generally recommended to always make a mock-up in a cheap fabric anyway, regardless of whether you have dyscalculia.
I can commiserate. I mess up the math on literally every pattern. Ironically, for about six years I did a job which required an excessive amount of mathing and rarely messed that up... I can only assume it was the repetitive nature of it. And also, the fact that I worked solely in millimeters, which is the easiest to math.
@@rd6203
Working with only straight lines and mostly right angles might also help.
@@ragnkja Fact.
this is really one of the best videos on youtube, for a number of reasons, but I'm here to say THANK YOU for explaining how you did the lining!! it made so much sense and sounds so simple! and your hand-stitching is beautiful to watch!
Thanks a lot for making this video I've been looking a lot around for how to make this fashion and this has helped a lot
This is such a good video. The vest turned out just fantastic, and the descriptions of how to fix the various fit problems were so well-explained. That wool has such a lovely weight to it!
The finishing is amazing and you look so so good in the finished outfit! Work it!!
This has come out fantastically!! Looks phenomenal 👌😍
Thanks Nicole! You always describe things so well! Beautiful Fabrics and wonderful finished products!
That looks marvelous I am going to save this video and make one for myself
Okay but that little dance at the end? 💖
This is fascinating. I'm working on a summer suit from the early twenties (I was lucky enough to score an original Butterick men's trousers pattern from ca. 1919, and I'm basing it around that). The vest is next (though my drafting skills are poor), so this is very helpful. Looking forward to the next installments!
I'm not yet ready for drafting but getting better.. There are a lot of repro pattern companies out there like Laughing Moon, Black Snail..etsy
When I saw the thumbnail, the first thing I thought was 'holy shit I'm gay", the suit looks wonderfully on you!
My first thought absolutely wasn't "I'm gay" - honey, I first had that thought decades ago... - but it does look great on her. And I think it would look great on quite a lot of women, men and anything else, really. The tweed is great.
I came down here to say exactly that.
This is such an exciting and useful video! Thank you so much for making this, I will definitely be referencing it for my own work in the future.
Pairing that vest with the skirt was lovely! Very nicely done, Nicole!
Lovely description of the use of tailors tape, the bridle was described perfectly. I enjoyed this one so much.
Birdy
This looks absolutely stunning!!! I am very interested in tailoring but it just seems like such a high art... I love that with every video I watch I gain another tiny insight into the world of tailoring. Today you taught me about tailor's tape, which I had never heard of before, so THANK YOU!! My next project will probably already be improved by a lot now :)
It's amazing how much I learn by simply watching you work through the process. Adjusting the toile while it is on your own body and not a mannequin isn't easy, but you sure do make it look like it is! Thank you for not adding superfluous music over the lovely thread-thru-fabric sounds (ASMR gold). And thank you for explaining your process without being condescending.
This is really fascinating! I'm thinking of trying to make some masculine historical fashions myself at some point in the near future (I've only made historical feminine garments) so this is a super helpful video.
Looking absolutely dapper and the dancing at the gave me a huge smile.
I really enjoyed watching you put in the lining. That tends to be a very difficult part for me.
I LOVE the way the light hits the lining fabric! It just glows!
What a great video! I've got an itch for a 20s waistcoat now...
I loved your approach to fitting this and the result looks great! So much sass and style. Also love watching someone skilled make something awesome out of beautiful materials.
The fit you achieved is SOOOOO GOOOOOD!
THE VIBES. Also, as always, loving the ASMR bits. Love the pattern matching of the lining/back and main fabric. All around wonderful job and it looks so good on you.
GOALS!!! thank you for this great video :) I wanna make myself a vest like that but I just started sewing recently. can`t wait to accumulate all the skills be able to do this
Snazzy! You are the cats pyjamas in this suit. You and Abby are on a roll this week with how informative you have been. That tweed is fabulous. I had a favourite jacket of the same fabric that was donated after many years of love when I outgrew it after 25 years.
What a lovely jacket! Perfect blend of menswear fit and tailoring to fit your shape.