When I was young and showing horses in California, the temps would be upwards of 110*f and just miserable. One judge was really committed to formal attire and required full coats, stock ties and velvet helmets. I had a second hand vintage wool hunt coat with fine cotton lining and I whined all morning about having to wear it later...and was shocked when I actually felt cooler in the heavy weight wool than I did in my short sleeved cotton rat catcher. After that, I always wore it. I don’t handle heat well and that dang coat saved my bacon from burning to a crisp 🤣
I usually wear wool socks in summer, and they keep me pretty cool. However they get really itchy when wet, so I have to make sure the weather is dry out. Some fabrics are really surprising. Although for casual clothes, I prefer to use lightweight cotton in summer.
It’s like the wool boot socks issued by the Army. I serious when I say they were cooler and reduced the heat of friction, wicked moisture, didn’t smell as quick. I didn’t appreciate them until I bought cotton ones that were soggy and stinky!
@@soapibubblesthestrange9972 thank you! I've been doing campaigner American Civil War and Spanish Civil War reenacting for a while now, so it seemed like a logical leap.
She’s like your favourite kindergarten teacher, that always spoke softly and had all the patience for you as you struggled to glue macaroni to paper 😍 absolute perfection
For people looking for drafting paper on a smaller scale, a lot of gift wraps these days have 1 inch grids printed on the opposite sides now. So, after Christmas mark downs can come in handy for your drafting needs too.
My husbands Tailored trousers had a velvet waist bands, with the fibres directed towards the feet. It keeps his shirts tucked in, neat and tidy at all times.
Your iron on interfacing roast is so accurate, it failed miserably when I tried it, following directions and everything. I hate how all modern patterns call for it. I am going to try one of these next time!
Your videos are so pleasant, your voice, the aesthetics, the visuals and voiceovers. This is a useful, clear, comprehensive, and excellently presented resource. I've read tailoring books that don't explain these fabrics and tools. Thank you!
What a great resource UA-cam has become. Books are wonderful, but there’s a whole other dimension that can only be experienced through demonstration and instruction - short of in person learning through schools and workshops, video is the next best thing. Thank you for doing this. In a future installment could you talk about irons, boards, specialty shaped boards, needle/velvet boards, hams, steamers...and then there’s the matter of needles; hand and machine - their uses, fabric matches and how to find good ones?
I had to chuckle when you were describing Tailor Tape and its application, as well as Petersham. Both of these can be extremely useful, especially if you're recreating the lofted and softly turned lapels which were the rage in the Edwardian Era for Chesterfield Coats. Both tapes, as well as loads of steam, become your best friend here! Thanks for a very fun and informative presentation! I almost forgot, so here's my edited portion: You mention "patterning paper," which is its own Pandora's Box of Tailoring Trauma. Over the years, regardless of what kind of project I'm working on, I've discovered two papers which are pretty amazing. The first is "floor paper," a kind of mid-weight kraft paper, which you can purchase by the roll at any (and I mean ANY!) paint store. It's really wide, you get a couple years' worth in length, and it's not horribly expensive. The other variety is a (very heavy) roll of wide printer paper; this can be purchases at Office Depot or other places and is used for production plotter printers. It's strong and lightweight (once you've pulled it off the roll!) and you can get it in widths up to 185 cm (about 72 inches). If you keep/archive your patterns, the floor paper is marvelous. One or two layers of any tape near any edge on both sides of each pattern piece, then punch a hole and you can keep the entire pattern hung on a pattern hook.
I am a professional knitting instructor. I also have a spinning wheel for making my own yarn. To make worsted yarn, you comb wool fibers so they are all parallel, and then you spin them to keep that parallel structure.That makes it so that when they are spun, the ends of the fibers do not stick out. When worsted yarns are woven, the fabric can even be shiny if the fibers are long enough and fine threads woven tightly enough. It also depends on which type of wool you start with (because each breed and even each animal within the breed will have a different texture, length and micron thickness), just as humans have different types of hair. Just as comparison, fuzzy wool yarns, especially the kind we think of for hunting socks or old-school wool sweaters, the fibers are carded rather than combed. Carding to start with makes the resulting products fluffier and lighter weight. It is spun to keep the loft, which is called woolen spun. Blankets would be made of woolen yarn.
So to make worsted yarns do you need a specific kind of roving? I’ve dabbled in spinning with a drop spindle on and off so I only know a little about it
@@lunarshadow7712 True worsted requires combed top, not roving. If you are prepping from scratch, you would use the heavy, evil looking wool combs with 4 to 5 rows of teeth. If you are buying pre-prepped fibers, you are looking for something labeled specifically "top" vs "roving". If you see them side by side you will really see those differences. Much of the commercial preparations of merino, for example, are combed top, so if you are buying dyed top that is what you are getting. Try getting some roving or batts from a small farm to compare. When you buy from a small farm that is selling from their own sheep it is usually carded roving (at least in the USA), because most small wool mills they use for small runs of fiber offer that. On occasion they will offer pin-drafted top/roving (which is somewhere between roving and top), and very rarely, combed top. The loftiest yarns come out of equally fluffy carded batts, the smoothest yarns out of top. Your fiber handling technique while spinning plays a part too, but if you start trying different breeds and different fiber preps, even handling the fiber the exact same way you will see immediate difference.
Contrary to what a lot of Etsy sellers think Grosgrain ribbon is Not the same as Petersham. Grosgrain is woven as a sheet of fabric and cut into ribbons so it has cut edges. Petersham is narrow woven as a single ribbon and has a woven edge that doesn't unravel. A difference in weave causes the signature stripes and results in a zig zag edge that Petersham always has. Vintage Grosgrain ribbon always has a straight edge that can unravel. Vintage Petersham is usually made of silk, cotton or rayon. Modern grosgrain is usually polyester or a poly blend so that the edges can be heat bonded. Sometimes poly grosgrain is given a bonded zigzag edge to mimic Petersham. If you're looking at Petersham online that has a zigzag edge and poly content it's more than likely that it's really grosgrain with a cut and bonded edge.
The subtitles sometimes give me such a chuckle 🤭: “but we’re going to specifically focus in on wolves because that tends to be the most typical type of tailoring fabric [...]” 15:58
Dangit, I so wish I had this video 2 days ago when I blindly ordered some random horsehair canvas for my Hamilton spencer! It sounds like I need to have a bit of a re-think about how I'm going to approach my interfacing materials. At least the stuff I ordered won't go to waste, but it sounds like I need to come up with a better plan for other materials to use along with it.
U so amazing!! (sew amazing?) I genuinely love how you are doing the opposite of tailors back in the day protecting the trade secrets. Thank you for being the opposite of "finish in the usual fashion."
i never put a video in my costuming save for later list so fast as i did this one. Gosh golly I needed this just as a way to get my ducks in a row ( been watching my ducks wander lazily around for about six months now) . All my supplies are specific to quilting and I have been needing to get more organized, this list is going to be so helpful- I know i will be returning to it many times in the near future . Thank you so much.
Sweet! Just what I needed. You always provide such excellent topics. 😊 This was amazing. Terms are often the largest barrier to entry when it comes to locating supplies. Thank you soooo much!
Canadian resource for tailoring supplies - Darrell Thomas Textiles (Almont, Ontario). Fantastic store and they're even having a sale right now on deadstock designer fabric. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
@@susanrobertson984 DT sells the Gutterman silk. But it's the regular weight, not the silk twist. Last time I was in the store (before he relocated) he had polyester buttonhole twist. But if enough of ask for silk twist...
@@susanrobertson984 Who's your BC supplier? Say it loud and say it proud. Because independent fabric and haberdashery suppliers are in danger of dropping like the proverbial flies... now's the time to show our support. - C.
@@stevezytveld6585 it is called Cindy’s Threadworks. I ordered once in early December because she has Superior threads from the US not in stock but she orders them. She got in touch early Jan to say her regular suppliers didn’t have what I wanted and she was trying some others. I should get the thread this week. So if you are not in a hurry ... which I was not!! The regular Gutterman silk thread is available lots of places including Fabricland. But everyone keeps running out of dark grey!!
It's so good to have all this information in the same place, now I need to translate some of the terms and hope I find the correct translation because it is not allways easy in sewing and embroidery.
This was amazing! It also made me wonder about caring for and cleaning the garments. I'm sure just chucking things in the washing machine is probably not a good idea but where to begin?
You really shouldn’t be wet washing a heavily tailored garment. They’re simply not designed for it, and the fabrics generally don’t wet wash well and frankly a tailored garment shouldn’t need washing. They’re not generally in contact with bare skin, If they get muddy, let it dry and brush it off and any spills should be spot cleaned. To generally refresh, spray with alcohol and let air dry.
I am so thrilled! It is super hard to find decent historical fabrics where I live. Especially wool's are always a blend, or felt. Its nearly impossible to find something without synthetics in it! Now I have two more shops to browse trough. Thank you!
That's the video I needed a year ago or so. Now I only need another one that translates all the terms into German, because the staff at fabric shops usually have no clue what [insert historical sewing related English term here] is.
Oh finally an explanation on the differences between petersham and other ribbon that I can understand! A note from a spinner re; superfine wool and worsted wool- (wow this got long) superfine in spinning relates to the "softness" of the wool, the microns of the individual hairs that make up the wool! The smaller the number the softer the wool. a typical merino wool is in the mid 20s. Worsted refers to how you prepare the wool to spin it. The other way you can spin is "woolen" (traditionally/historically these are the two styles of spinning- modern spinners are getting creative and making more). Worsted spinning is spun with the wool hairs in a row, lined up all facing the same direction with the goal of being smooth and having the fuzzy halo of fiber that you see when you hold a thread up to the light as unpronounced as possible. Woolen spun thread is spun from what is called a "rolag" think a metal spring but made of unspun wool. The goal in woolen spinning is to trap as much air as possible, making a fuzzier, warmer thread. There is also a difference in the strength of each thread, and the amount of stretch, but I think the most important here is the fuzzy halo that you get with woolen spun verses the less fuzzy worsted.
THANK YOU! I do confess it's starting to feel as though you're reading my mind - exactly when a question in my head becomes urgent, out comes your next video answering it ;-) Additional sources in Europe would be greatly appreciated as they surface! (Trying to reduce the shipping footprint of the materials I acquire as much as possible.)
When it comes to wools, I've had decent luck with a couple of UK suppliers; Croft Mill and Fabworks. I'm not sure about mainland continent suppliers, sadly, but good luck finding what you need! :)
@@wiggle_duck9063 Thank you, and indeed! Alas, Brexit has made it hardly less expensive and time-consuming to order from the UK as from the US (though at least the shipping distance is less, of course). The Historical Fabric Store in Sweden (which Nicole Rudolph links!) is fabulous for wools and broadcloths and linen canvas and such! But I've not been able to find any suppliers of 18thC button moulds on the mainland at all....
ahh thank you so much for this!!! i’m very new to like, heavy craftsmanship (most of my sewing projects have been simple skirts and shirts or like, cosplay pieces), so i’m always interested in the more heavy duty learning outside of just what i pick up from videos 💕 i hope if you don’t already have plans for it that you’ll maybe do a follow up video about upkeep and whatnot for modern made tailored clothing (storage, cleaning, etc) bc ive seen some on historical pieces, but im never sure about what of these fabrics is ok to fold/wash/hang/etc haha;;
How very exciting! I have discovered a new GEM in the tailoring/hand sewing world! Your presentation style is precise and you have made it all very easy to follow! Now I have to search for more. Thank you for your time and talent. You have made my day.
Thank you for making this video. I am currently committing to making for myself Richard Sharps' (Sean Bean) officer jacket from "Sharps' Rifle's", and a cloak (Bernadette Banner red cloak) to wear over top of it in the winter time. To be donene in Prussian Blue with white wool embroidery and braids with mother of pearl buttons for my grandmother's collection. And on the back of the jacket where the braiding does the loop de loop I am going to do the Tree of Gondor. And Elvis writing and little flowers along the Hem of both the jacket and cloak. The lining is a separate project entirely, so I'm going to do a temporary lining and then work on my tapestry embroidered lining as I enjoy tapestry embroidery, I plan to wear this coat for the rest of my life, so I might as well take my time on it like my grandmother and her grandmother did.
Oh my word!!!!! So many questions answered! You are truly the most amazing knowledgeable go to source ever! Seriously thank you Nichole for sharing the wonderfulness of you and your vast knowledge and experience. I truly appreciate you.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am getting back into sewing and pattern drafting after a hiatus of 40 years and this video, dear Nicole, has saved me so much time and money that would have been wasted on so many unnecessary items. You speak with so much clarity and wisdom...I cannot thank you enough...
Here I am back, I paid a lot attention to the thread that you mentioned, when I said I am back is because I went to Google to ask what is a chain stitching machine and sawba few videos and also for hand sewing the sleeve. So relax listening to you while I am stretching even though I know I am not into making pieces of clothes so complicated. Is good to know to learn new words.
You have made my life 600 times easier. I live in a remote town in a remote country and there are virtually NO tailoring courses, and the materials are not readily available, I would REALLY LOVE you to do a tailoring course on line. OMG.
This is amazing! Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive resource for tailoring. There were a few items I knew the names of, but had never seen examples, and a few more I had never heard of. Seeing examples of each item, while discussing usage was incredibly helpful, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a video quite like this, before. Thank you, again, and have a wonderful, joyous week.
Thanks for all the useful information. Now I have to find an online shop for those things here in Europe. I just started to make my own clothes (that are not knit) and still need to find the right materials near me. And as a crafter spinning her own yarn I have to add a little more. The most important difference between worsted and woolen spun wool is actually in the fiber preparation. (The way it is spun makes a difference as well, but is of less importance in the effect it has) For worsted spun wool yarn the fibers are combed to 1) remove shorter fibers from it 2) so that all fibers are parallel to each other Both contribute to the much smoother quality of such yarns even before a lot of twist is put in. Woolen spun wool yarn is made from fiber long and short, laying every which way, and often spun in a looser manner. This contributes to a more rough appearance, as those shorter fibers and different angled longer ones stick out to the sides, and to those yarns being warmer. More air is trapped after all. There are quite a lot of videos here on youtube showing the differences and how it's done in handspinning (both with spindle and a wheel)
Your videos are so informative and engaging! So glad I found you via Abby, I'm so jealous of both of you having a sewing human as a neighbour and friend!
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I’ve watched and rewatched this video a couple of times while I’m in my own sewing room. If you ever teach an online tailoring class please let us in the UA-cam world hear about it.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed and informative video! It also happens to be perfectly timed for me - I'm struggling with the collar and lapel of a 1939 dress pattern. After watching this, I learned that I need to do some shopping to get the right materials to properly finish it.
Such a lovely video. Especially love the little 'cards'/title screens. The fond and little border look absolutely lovely. The historic touch on all the parts that go into tailoring is super nice, and not something you often find when looking for tutorials. I love to listen to your videos. However, as I am sadly a noob at anything sewing related, though very interested in tailoring, I do notice that there are plenty of times that I can't totally follow what is going on. (Not a problem, I just need to learn more still.) However, I managed to understand and follow everything in this video. Kudos on the noob friendliness :D Also all the suits and tailored pieces you own are incredible, such a fantastic job. They are all so district in style from each other too.
I spent more time translating the names and finding close equivalents (aka gets the job done) available in my country than I spent on watching this guide😂 This is going to be a journey
Thank you so much for this, Nicole! I've been wanting something like this for a while now. Also, now I have to go and unpick some handstitching and acquire tailors tape, because...yeah. (swearing so much in my head rn). I really appreciate the additional knowledge of materials! I will be referencing this video so much as I learn how to tailor things properly! You're a gem!
Gosh, I love your channel, I learn so much. I count myself fairly experienced at sewing but I learn an amazing amount. Your channel just has this element of something that others don’t
Thank you so much! This was very insightful!! I personaly looove tropical weight wools.....for circle skirts! So chic and twirly, and it does not create frixion with cotton tights.
Watching this again after taking some tailoring classes. Thanks for clarifying how they perform in hot weather. I’m in Tennessee and while I love tweed, it’s usually too warm for that.
Wow! Wow! Wow! What a FANTASTIC video. I am fairly knowledable in sewing and have been sewing many years, but I still learned so many things from this video. what a great video. Will watch this one again. LOL! I like your content, and I like your personality too. You are very pleasant to watch. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for all this wonderful knowledge! I went to fashion college but we only ever learned the basics and fast-fashion techniques. If you ever choose to teach a course I want to take it 💗
I am a dress maker but really want to get more in to tailoring so this video is gold! Really hoping you can do a book recommendation video, not just about historical sewing but general tailoring🤞🤞I really love your skills and want to learn them to so I have some serious studying and practicing to do💪💪
I've been using up the cotton threads that came with my grandmother's old sewing box for tacking/basting; the nice quality Sylko Three Shells twist... as I found out the hard way that as it is probably over 50 years old (judging by the dates of some of the other items in the box), it doesn't have the strength not to give way in structural hand-sewing! Also a nice rememberance of her.
Vintage threads are something I'd love to collect, like Noelle does, but I'd never use them - as much as it's not historical, I stick to modern polyester threads for everything so far. If I worked larger visible stitches into some garments I'd probably buy silk, but otherwise polyester does the job quite well when it comes to wearable historybounding/vintage-style/modern clothes and has the added bonus of working very well for both machine and hand-sewing.
Thank you so much for simplifying the tailoring supplies. I'm new to tailoring and just really getting started in historical clothing. I am entirely self taught with only youtube tutorials and various books to show me the way. Needless to say seeing all the different components that actually go into tailoring cam be a bit daunting. This was a very practical tools of the trade video. It makes it way less confusing as to what I will need. If you ever care to share your knowledge of tailor and make a tutorial, that would be beyond awesome. ❤
Thanks for all this good info! The fabric store I usually deal with and its online counterpart don't seem to have anything that's pure wool, they mostly seem to be polyester blends, so if and when I decide it's time to make something out of wool, I'll have to do some hunting. And I will probably come back to this video to remember the words I need for what I want :) Unfortunately for lefthanders, options are pretty limited when it comes to scissors and shears. I'm glad I've got two good pairs of lefty shears now, although I discovered with the new pair that the old pair was hinged righty. *mind blown* I might actually be able to cut a straight line now that I don't have to look over the far side of my scissors to see my line...
Thank you thank you thank you. I went to buy my first order of 'nice thread' for my historical sewing and just froze because I didn't have a clue as to what was what. Or what weights were good for what. I just ended up closing my web browser to think about it another day. So thank you so much for this needed video. 🥰❤🧡💛💚💙💜🥰
You are a wealth of knowledge would love for you to do some basic tutorials on the stitches and starting to make some basic items so people like me can get started and be confident when moving on the more complicated garments. Thank you for these videos I am sure this video will be used as a reference many times over. I will be saving this for sure. Cheers Tricia.
Thank you so much to you and all the other Costubers out there making the hobby *more* accessible rather than gatekeeping. We appreciate you so much. #perfectlyimperfect #progressnotperfection #compersionnotcomparison
First time here.. Thank you. I enjoyed this very much and it was very educational. You are adorable and remind me of a mellow Rachael Maddow like her baby sister if she had one😊. Your facial expressions are kind and welcoming.
TBH I don't know if I'm ever going to attempt tailoring myself, but now I will be more able to follow along with people who are, and know what they're talking about!
Such a great video with excellent info! Thank you, thank you, thank you for talking about the over-use of horsehair canvas, especially in historical tailoring!!!
Thank you! So much to learn and to have all this in one place, the best. I wish I could give it TWO thumbs up!👍 👍 how could anyone give this a thumbs down? 😳🙄
Thank you for this. These resources are amazing, and this has made me realize why I was having so many issues with hand sewing, between using the completely wrong needles and completely wrong thread... so now I have a chance to fix that. Thank you so much!
Excellent informative video. You really don't appreciate how much more comfortable shears are until you've cut out all the pieces for an ensemble, nor how much work they take out of the process compared to scissors because of those cranked handles and the extra weight.
.... All those beautiful links! and explained!!!! I don't have to agonize about whether an online resource is safe or reliable?! I think I might love you.
Only just watched a video about pad stitching where they recommended horse hair canvas, so it was amusing to watch this next and hear you say to not use it too much 😂 Anyway, I'm nowhere near good enough at sewing to need this information right now, but it will be a great resource further down the line. Thank you so much 💌
Nicole, I just discovered your video right now, and can't waist a second, must thank you for such variety of informative resources. I am in NYC I attended couple of classes FIT costume history and making, and I guarantee I learnt way more with this single video !! I THANK YOU SO MUCH. If you ever have online tailoring suits for mens and ladies, not necessary only historic clothes, I'd love to attend as well. I'm fascinating by "the science" and secrets behind a jacket construction.
i tried using tape along a neckline and it’s left a weird indent in the profile of my silhouette and now my neckline is slightly funky. always more to learn!
This is just incredibly useful! I've been using linen as interfacing because I had scraps of it, and couldn't warrant the expense of horsehair canvas, but now I'll happily stick to the linen for most uses!
Fantastic video. Very well done. I found myself smiling when I heard the intro music come on. It's almost like I'm sitting down and handsewing with a friend (because that is what I am usually doing while watching these videos).💛
I've been longing for a video like this for so long, and finally it's here! Thank you so much. I was wondering forever if horsehair canvas was really the only interfacing option for historical garments.
When I was young and showing horses in California, the temps would be upwards of 110*f and just miserable. One judge was really committed to formal attire and required full coats, stock ties and velvet helmets. I had a second hand vintage wool hunt coat with fine cotton lining and I whined all morning about having to wear it later...and was shocked when I actually felt cooler in the heavy weight wool than I did in my short sleeved cotton rat catcher. After that, I always wore it. I don’t handle heat well and that dang coat saved my bacon from burning to a crisp 🤣
I had an old Melton wool long coat that I wore during blistering heat summers in Australia for exactly the same reason...it kept me cool...
I usually wear wool socks in summer, and they keep me pretty cool. However they get really itchy when wet, so I have to make sure the weather is dry out. Some fabrics are really surprising. Although for casual clothes, I prefer to use lightweight cotton in summer.
It’s like the wool boot socks issued by the Army. I serious when I say they were cooler and reduced the heat of friction, wicked moisture, didn’t smell as quick. I didn’t appreciate them until I bought cotton ones that were soggy and stinky!
you thought he was being a hardass, turned out he was looking out for you lol
As a guy who's just seriously getting into historical sewing, this video is an absolute gem of a resource. Thank you so much!
SAME (well, I’m not a guy, but yay for more guys doing historical sewing!)
I love how much I learn from Nicole!
More guys into sewing, yes please!
IWW profile pic and into historical sewing? You seem dope as heck dude!
@@soapibubblesthestrange9972 thank you! I've been doing campaigner American Civil War and Spanish Civil War reenacting for a while now, so it seemed like a logical leap.
Same here, and a guy too! I wish I had all these infos when I started a year ago (waistcoat without interfacing=>problematic)
She’s like your favourite kindergarten teacher, that always spoke softly and had all the patience for you as you struggled to glue macaroni to paper 😍 absolute perfection
For people looking for drafting paper on a smaller scale, a lot of gift wraps these days have 1 inch grids printed on the opposite sides now. So, after Christmas mark downs can come in handy for your drafting needs too.
That is a great tip! Thanks so much!
I read or heard somewhere that gift wrapping is generally not recyclable. Just something to keep in mind is possible.
Yes! I love using wrapping paper heheh
My husbands Tailored trousers had a velvet waist bands, with the fibres directed towards the feet. It keeps his shirts tucked in, neat and tidy at all times.
Bless you, this is a fantastic resource and I haven't found anyone else trying to be so quick-but-comprehensive.
Your iron on interfacing roast is so accurate, it failed miserably when I tried it, following directions and everything. I hate how all modern patterns call for it. I am going to try one of these next time!
I'm thinking of switching over to sewn interfacings - I use a better quality iron on interfacing and often it's still hard to get it to stick.
If you ever have an online tailoring course, I’d love attend! Your content is so educational!
I also would enjoy that
Me to
Agreed!
Yes!
Agreed!
Your videos are so pleasant, your voice, the aesthetics, the visuals and voiceovers. This is a useful, clear, comprehensive, and excellently presented resource. I've read tailoring books that don't explain these fabrics and tools. Thank you!
Exactley right!
What a great resource UA-cam has become. Books are wonderful, but there’s a whole other dimension that can only be experienced through demonstration and instruction - short of in person learning through schools and workshops, video is the next best thing. Thank you for doing this.
In a future installment could you talk about irons, boards, specialty shaped boards, needle/velvet boards, hams, steamers...and then there’s the matter of needles; hand and machine - their uses, fabric matches and how to find good ones?
You give university level content in a way that I understand. You make tailoring seem doable. What a friendly and expert way you have! Thank you!
I had to chuckle when you were describing Tailor Tape and its application, as well as Petersham. Both of these can be extremely useful, especially if you're recreating the lofted and softly turned lapels which were the rage in the Edwardian Era for Chesterfield Coats. Both tapes, as well as loads of steam, become your best friend here! Thanks for a very fun and informative presentation!
I almost forgot, so here's my edited portion: You mention "patterning paper," which is its own Pandora's Box of Tailoring Trauma. Over the years, regardless of what kind of project I'm working on, I've discovered two papers which are pretty amazing. The first is "floor paper," a kind of mid-weight kraft paper, which you can purchase by the roll at any (and I mean ANY!) paint store. It's really wide, you get a couple years' worth in length, and it's not horribly expensive. The other variety is a (very heavy) roll of wide printer paper; this can be purchases at Office Depot or other places and is used for production plotter printers. It's strong and lightweight (once you've pulled it off the roll!) and you can get it in widths up to 185 cm (about 72 inches).
If you keep/archive your patterns, the floor paper is marvelous. One or two layers of any tape near any edge on both sides of each pattern piece, then punch a hole and you can keep the entire pattern hung on a pattern hook.
Bless You! And thank you for showing us where you can get the papers!
I am a professional knitting instructor. I also have a spinning wheel for making my own yarn.
To make worsted yarn, you comb wool fibers so they are all parallel, and then you spin them to keep that parallel structure.That makes it so that when they are spun, the ends of the fibers do not stick out. When worsted yarns are woven, the fabric can even be shiny if the fibers are long enough and fine threads woven tightly enough. It also depends on which type of wool you start with (because each breed and even each animal within the breed will have a different texture, length and micron thickness), just as humans have different types of hair.
Just as comparison, fuzzy wool yarns, especially the kind we think of for hunting socks or old-school wool sweaters, the fibers are carded rather than combed. Carding to start with makes the resulting products fluffier and lighter weight. It is spun to keep the loft, which is called woolen spun. Blankets would be made of woolen yarn.
This is awesome, thank you for sharing 🤗
I now finally know what it means for a wool to be 'worsted'
So to make worsted yarns do you need a specific kind of roving? I’ve dabbled in spinning with a drop spindle on and off so I only know a little about it
I now know of the existence of a garment called "hunting socks." Thanks for sharing :)
@@lunarshadow7712 True worsted requires combed top, not roving. If you are prepping from scratch, you would use the heavy, evil looking wool combs with 4 to 5 rows of teeth. If you are buying pre-prepped fibers, you are looking for something labeled specifically "top" vs "roving". If you see them side by side you will really see those differences. Much of the commercial preparations of merino, for example, are combed top, so if you are buying dyed top that is what you are getting. Try getting some roving or batts from a small farm to compare. When you buy from a small farm that is selling from their own sheep it is usually carded roving (at least in the USA), because most small wool mills they use for small runs of fiber offer that. On occasion they will offer pin-drafted top/roving (which is somewhere between roving and top), and very rarely, combed top. The loftiest yarns come out of equally fluffy carded batts, the smoothest yarns out of top. Your fiber handling technique while spinning plays a part too, but if you start trying different breeds and different fiber preps, even handling the fiber the exact same way you will see immediate difference.
Contrary to what a lot of Etsy sellers think Grosgrain ribbon is Not the same as Petersham. Grosgrain is woven as a sheet of fabric and cut into ribbons so it has cut edges. Petersham is narrow woven as a single ribbon and has a woven edge that doesn't unravel. A difference in weave causes the signature stripes and results in a zig zag edge that Petersham always has. Vintage Grosgrain ribbon always has a straight edge that can unravel. Vintage Petersham is usually made of silk, cotton or rayon. Modern grosgrain is usually polyester or a poly blend so that the edges can be heat bonded. Sometimes poly grosgrain is given a bonded zigzag edge to mimic Petersham. If you're looking at Petersham online that has a zigzag edge and poly content it's more than likely that it's really grosgrain with a cut and bonded edge.
The subtitles sometimes give me such a chuckle 🤭: “but we’re going to specifically focus in on wolves because that tends to be the most typical type of tailoring fabric [...]” 15:58
I missed that one- but I'm going to leave it now 😂
Dangit, I so wish I had this video 2 days ago when I blindly ordered some random horsehair canvas for my Hamilton spencer! It sounds like I need to have a bit of a re-think about how I'm going to approach my interfacing materials. At least the stuff I ordered won't go to waste, but it sounds like I need to come up with a better plan for other materials to use along with it.
U so amazing!! (sew amazing?) I genuinely love how you are doing the opposite of tailors back in the day protecting the trade secrets. Thank you for being the opposite of "finish in the usual fashion."
i never put a video in my costuming save for later list so fast as i did this one. Gosh golly I needed this just as a way to get my ducks in a row ( been watching my ducks wander lazily around for about six months now) . All my supplies are specific to quilting and I have been needing to get more organized, this list is going to be so helpful- I know i will be returning to it many times in the near future . Thank you so much.
Sweet! Just what I needed. You always provide such excellent topics. 😊
This was amazing. Terms are often the largest barrier to entry when it comes to locating supplies. Thank you soooo much!
Canadian resource for tailoring supplies - Darrell Thomas Textiles (Almont, Ontario). Fantastic store and they're even having a sale right now on deadstock designer fabric.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Do you know of any Canadian suppliers of silk button hole twist? I found a place in BC and ordered in December and the order may arrive this week.
@@susanrobertson984 DT sells the Gutterman silk. But it's the regular weight, not the silk twist. Last time I was in the store (before he relocated) he had polyester buttonhole twist. But if enough of ask for silk twist...
@@susanrobertson984 Who's your BC supplier?
Say it loud and say it proud. Because independent fabric and haberdashery suppliers are in danger of dropping like the proverbial flies... now's the time to show our support.
- C.
@@stevezytveld6585 it is called Cindy’s Threadworks. I ordered once in early December because she has Superior threads from the US not in stock but she orders them. She got in touch early Jan to say her regular suppliers didn’t have what I wanted and she was trying some others. I should get the thread this week. So if you are not in a hurry ... which I was not!! The regular Gutterman silk thread is available lots of places including Fabricland. But everyone keeps running out of dark grey!!
It's so good to have all this information in the same place, now I need to translate some of the terms and hope I find the correct translation because it is not allways easy in sewing and embroidery.
Tava a pensar o mesmo 😩
Wow, watched on TV tonight, rather than my small tablet. I think I need to go back and watch everything on TV. The fabrics are beautiful
I have been waiting for this for YEARS! Thank you.
Oog...rubberized horsehair...horsehair padded upholstery...widely used in the 1950s...memories of a very prickly childhood (shudder).
This was amazing! It also made me wonder about caring for and cleaning the garments. I'm sure just chucking things in the washing machine is probably not a good idea but where to begin?
That was my first question about stiffened fabrics. Can it be washed at all? What can be washed?
You really shouldn’t be wet washing a heavily tailored garment. They’re simply not designed for it, and the fabrics generally don’t wet wash well and frankly a tailored garment shouldn’t need washing. They’re not generally in contact with bare skin, If they get muddy, let it dry and brush it off and any spills should be spot cleaned. To generally refresh, spray with alcohol and let air dry.
I am so thrilled! It is super hard to find decent historical fabrics where I live. Especially wool's are always a blend, or felt. Its nearly impossible to find something without synthetics in it! Now I have two more shops to browse trough. Thank you!
That's the video I needed a year ago or so.
Now I only need another one that translates all the terms into German, because the staff at fabric shops usually have no clue what [insert historical sewing related English term here] is.
Oh finally an explanation on the differences between petersham and other ribbon that I can understand!
A note from a spinner re; superfine wool and worsted wool- (wow this got long)
superfine in spinning relates to the "softness" of the wool, the microns of the individual hairs that make up the wool! The smaller the number the softer the wool. a typical merino wool is in the mid 20s. Worsted refers to how you prepare the wool to spin it. The other way you can spin is "woolen" (traditionally/historically these are the two styles of spinning- modern spinners are getting creative and making more). Worsted spinning is spun with the wool hairs in a row, lined up all facing the same direction with the goal of being smooth and having the fuzzy halo of fiber that you see when you hold a thread up to the light as unpronounced as possible. Woolen spun thread is spun from what is called a "rolag" think a metal spring but made of unspun wool. The goal in woolen spinning is to trap as much air as possible, making a fuzzier, warmer thread. There is also a difference in the strength of each thread, and the amount of stretch, but I think the most important here is the fuzzy halo that you get with woolen spun verses the less fuzzy worsted.
THANK YOU! I do confess it's starting to feel as though you're reading my mind - exactly when a question in my head becomes urgent, out comes your next video answering it ;-) Additional sources in Europe would be greatly appreciated as they surface! (Trying to reduce the shipping footprint of the materials I acquire as much as possible.)
When it comes to wools, I've had decent luck with a couple of UK suppliers; Croft Mill and Fabworks.
I'm not sure about mainland continent suppliers, sadly, but good luck finding what you need! :)
@@wiggle_duck9063 Thank you, and indeed! Alas, Brexit has made it hardly less expensive and time-consuming to order from the UK as from the US (though at least the shipping distance is less, of course). The Historical Fabric Store in Sweden (which Nicole Rudolph links!) is fabulous for wools and broadcloths and linen canvas and such! But I've not been able to find any suppliers of 18thC button moulds on the mainland at all....
ahh thank you so much for this!!! i’m very new to like, heavy craftsmanship (most of my sewing projects have been simple skirts and shirts or like, cosplay pieces), so i’m always interested in the more heavy duty learning outside of just what i pick up from videos 💕
i hope if you don’t already have plans for it that you’ll maybe do a follow up video about upkeep and whatnot for modern made tailored clothing (storage, cleaning, etc) bc ive seen some on historical pieces, but im never sure about what of these fabrics is ok to fold/wash/hang/etc haha;;
As someone who would like to eventually make his own suits; thank you for this!
I never knew that about the difference between scissors and shears!! It's so obvious now that I think about them!
How very exciting! I have discovered a new GEM in the tailoring/hand sewing world!
Your presentation style is precise and you have made it all very easy to follow!
Now I have to search for more.
Thank you for your time and talent. You have made my day.
Can you do a video on historical fashion books ?
This is an awesome idea for a video!
I love how she explains the history of the materials and processes. Ot makes you appreciate even more the construction of the garments you use.
Im saving this video to watch over and over. Needed this info. Thanks!
Thank you for making this video. I am currently committing to making for myself Richard Sharps' (Sean Bean) officer jacket from "Sharps' Rifle's", and a cloak (Bernadette Banner red cloak) to wear over top of it in the winter time. To be donene in Prussian Blue with white wool embroidery and braids with mother of pearl buttons for my grandmother's collection. And on the back of the jacket where the braiding does the loop de loop I am going to do the Tree of Gondor. And Elvis writing and little flowers along the Hem of both the jacket and cloak. The lining is a separate project entirely, so I'm going to do a temporary lining and then work on my tapestry embroidered lining as I enjoy tapestry embroidery, I plan to wear this coat for the rest of my life, so I might as well take my time on it like my grandmother and her grandmother did.
Oh my word!!!!! So many questions answered! You are truly the most amazing knowledgeable go to source ever! Seriously thank you Nichole for sharing the wonderfulness of you and your vast knowledge and experience. I truly appreciate you.
This is a perfect example of what Sir Tim Berners-Lee invented the Internet for. I'm enthralled watching it, every time.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am getting back into sewing and pattern drafting after a hiatus of 40 years and this video, dear Nicole, has saved me so much time and money that would have been wasted on so many unnecessary items. You speak with so much clarity and wisdom...I cannot thank you enough...
Here I am back, I paid a lot attention to the thread that you mentioned, when I said I am back is because I went to Google to ask what is a chain stitching machine and sawba few videos and also for hand sewing the sleeve. So relax listening to you while I am stretching even though I know I am not into making pieces of clothes so complicated. Is good to know to learn new words.
You are a great fountain of knowledgeable and resource for the new tailor. A dressmaker myself, I enjoyed watching this video. Thank you!
You have made my life 600 times easier. I live in a remote town in a remote country and there are virtually NO tailoring courses, and the materials are not readily available, I would REALLY LOVE you to do a tailoring course on line. OMG.
This is amazing! Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive resource for tailoring. There were a few items I knew the names of, but had never seen examples, and a few more I had never heard of. Seeing examples of each item, while discussing usage was incredibly helpful, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a video quite like this, before. Thank you, again, and have a wonderful, joyous week.
Love the tropical jacket! Super pretty 💕
You are a great teacher, I have learned so much here.
You are a literal godsend I have been looking for this exact content for years!!!
Thanks for all the useful information. Now I have to find an online shop for those things here in Europe. I just started to make my own clothes (that are not knit) and still need to find the right materials near me.
And as a crafter spinning her own yarn I have to add a little more.
The most important difference between worsted and woolen spun wool is actually in the fiber preparation. (The way it is spun makes a difference as well, but is of less importance in the effect it has)
For worsted spun wool yarn the fibers are combed to
1) remove shorter fibers from it
2) so that all fibers are parallel to each other
Both contribute to the much smoother quality of such yarns even before a lot of twist is put in.
Woolen spun wool yarn is made from fiber long and short, laying every which way, and often spun in a looser manner. This contributes to a more rough appearance, as those shorter fibers and different angled longer ones stick out to the sides, and to those yarns being warmer. More air is trapped after all.
There are quite a lot of videos here on youtube showing the differences and how it's done in handspinning (both with spindle and a wheel)
The part about fabrics was most useful to me only because I've been confused as to what I should buy for a vest/waistcoat. Thank you!
Your videos are so informative and engaging! So glad I found you via Abby, I'm so jealous of both of you having a sewing human as a neighbour and friend!
I love all your videos so much, but this is particularly useful. Thank you so much!
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I’ve watched and rewatched this video a couple of times while I’m in my own sewing room. If you ever teach an online tailoring class please let us in the UA-cam world hear about it.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed and informative video! It also happens to be perfectly timed for me - I'm struggling with the collar and lapel of a 1939 dress pattern. After watching this, I learned that I need to do some shopping to get the right materials to properly finish it.
What a treasure trove of information! I forsee rewatching this a few dozen times in the future)
Thank you for this resource!
I’d also like to say, I love your look today. It’s fantastic!
Such a lovely video. Especially love the little 'cards'/title screens. The fond and little border look absolutely lovely.
The historic touch on all the parts that go into tailoring is super nice, and not something you often find when looking for tutorials.
I love to listen to your videos. However, as I am sadly a noob at anything sewing related, though very interested in tailoring, I do notice that there are plenty of times that I can't totally follow what is going on. (Not a problem, I just need to learn more still.) However, I managed to understand and follow everything in this video. Kudos on the noob friendliness :D
Also all the suits and tailored pieces you own are incredible, such a fantastic job. They are all so district in style from each other too.
I spent more time translating the names and finding close equivalents (aka gets the job done) available in my country than I spent on watching this guide😂 This is going to be a journey
I love your videos...the amount of knowledge, the aesthetics, the presentation... you're in my top 5 gotta watch channels. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this, Nicole! I've been wanting something like this for a while now. Also, now I have to go and unpick some handstitching and acquire tailors tape, because...yeah. (swearing so much in my head rn). I really appreciate the additional knowledge of materials! I will be referencing this video so much as I learn how to tailor things properly! You're a gem!
Gosh, I love your channel, I learn so much. I count myself fairly experienced at sewing but I learn an amazing amount. Your channel just has this element of something that others don’t
Thank you so much! This was very insightful!! I personaly looove tropical weight wools.....for circle skirts! So chic and twirly, and it does not create frixion with cotton tights.
Watching this again after taking some tailoring classes. Thanks for clarifying how they perform in hot weather. I’m in Tennessee and while I love tweed, it’s usually too warm for that.
Wow! Wow! Wow! What a FANTASTIC video. I am fairly knowledable in sewing and have been sewing many years, but I still learned so many things from this video. what a great video. Will watch this one again. LOL! I like your content, and I like your personality too. You are very pleasant to watch. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for all this wonderful knowledge! I went to fashion college but we only ever learned the basics and fast-fashion techniques. If you ever choose to teach a course I want to take it 💗
I am a dress maker but really want to get more in to tailoring so this video is gold! Really hoping you can do a book recommendation video, not just about historical sewing but general tailoring🤞🤞I really love your skills and want to learn them to so I have some serious studying and practicing to do💪💪
I've been using up the cotton threads that came with my grandmother's old sewing box for tacking/basting; the nice quality Sylko Three Shells twist... as I found out the hard way that as it is probably over 50 years old (judging by the dates of some of the other items in the box), it doesn't have the strength not to give way in structural hand-sewing! Also a nice rememberance of her.
Good thinking
Vintage threads are something I'd love to collect, like Noelle does, but I'd never use them - as much as it's not historical, I stick to modern polyester threads for everything so far. If I worked larger visible stitches into some garments I'd probably buy silk, but otherwise polyester does the job quite well when it comes to wearable historybounding/vintage-style/modern clothes and has the added bonus of working very well for both machine and hand-sewing.
Thank you so much for simplifying the tailoring supplies. I'm new to tailoring and just really getting started in historical clothing. I am entirely self taught with only youtube tutorials and various books to show me the way. Needless to say seeing all the different components that actually go into tailoring cam be a bit daunting. This was a very practical tools of the trade video. It makes it way less confusing as to what I will need. If you ever care to share your knowledge of tailor and make a tutorial, that would be beyond awesome. ❤
Wow! Thanks Nicole for all the great information. It does explain a lot of terms I've heard in historical sewing! I LOVE the 1930's striped jacket!
Thanks for all this good info! The fabric store I usually deal with and its online counterpart don't seem to have anything that's pure wool, they mostly seem to be polyester blends, so if and when I decide it's time to make something out of wool, I'll have to do some hunting. And I will probably come back to this video to remember the words I need for what I want :)
Unfortunately for lefthanders, options are pretty limited when it comes to scissors and shears. I'm glad I've got two good pairs of lefty shears now, although I discovered with the new pair that the old pair was hinged righty. *mind blown* I might actually be able to cut a straight line now that I don't have to look over the far side of my scissors to see my line...
I am not a lefty, but that sounds like the kind of frustrating that wpuld make me walk away forever. Glad you found something truly useful
Thank you thank you thank you. I went to buy my first order of 'nice thread' for my historical sewing and just froze because I didn't have a clue as to what was what. Or what weights were good for what. I just ended up closing my web browser to think about it another day. So thank you so much for this needed video. 🥰❤🧡💛💚💙💜🥰
You are a wealth of knowledge would love for you to do some basic tutorials on the stitches and starting to make some basic items so people like me can get started and be confident when moving on the more complicated garments. Thank you for these videos I am sure this video will be used as a reference many times over. I will be saving this for sure. Cheers Tricia.
This video makes tailoring look so much less scary.
Oh.... I like you! Great humor and style and knowledge. Lol Very well done. Thank you
I love your style of explaining things, I could sit and listen to you for hours :)
I love your channel. Like love love love it. It's my brain on digital format.
i could listen to you talk about tailoring stuffs forever
Thank you so much to you and all the other Costubers out there making the hobby *more* accessible rather than gatekeeping. We appreciate you so much. #perfectlyimperfect #progressnotperfection #compersionnotcomparison
First time here.. Thank you. I enjoyed this very much and it was very educational. You are adorable and remind me of a mellow Rachael Maddow like her baby sister if she had one😊. Your facial expressions are kind and welcoming.
This is so useful! Thank you so much for making this video!
Definitely going to be taking notes! Thank you so much for putting all this info together and in such a straightforward manner
I was supposed to be winding down to sleep but now I'm thirst scrolling through wool vendors
TBH I don't know if I'm ever going to attempt tailoring myself, but now I will be more able to follow along with people who are, and know what they're talking about!
Such a great video with excellent info! Thank you, thank you, thank you for talking about the over-use of horsehair canvas, especially in historical tailoring!!!
Thank you! So much to learn and to have all this in one place, the best. I wish I could give it TWO thumbs up!👍 👍 how could anyone give this a thumbs down? 😳🙄
Thank you for this. These resources are amazing, and this has made me realize why I was having so many issues with hand sewing, between using the completely wrong needles and completely wrong thread... so now I have a chance to fix that. Thank you so much!
Excellent informative video. You really don't appreciate how much more comfortable shears are until you've cut out all the pieces for an ensemble, nor how much work they take out of the process compared to scissors because of those cranked handles and the extra weight.
.... All those beautiful links! and explained!!!! I don't have to agonize about whether an online resource is safe or reliable?! I think I might love you.
Only just watched a video about pad stitching where they recommended horse hair canvas, so it was amusing to watch this next and hear you say to not use it too much 😂
Anyway, I'm nowhere near good enough at sewing to need this information right now, but it will be a great resource further down the line. Thank you so much 💌
THANK YOU!!! trying to find some of these items has been a nightmare; the links you provided are so helpful!
yay finally a proper video on interlining/facing fabrics
Nicole, I just discovered your video right now, and can't waist a second, must thank you for such variety of informative resources. I am in NYC I attended couple of classes FIT costume history and making, and I guarantee I learnt way more with this single video !! I
THANK YOU SO MUCH. If you ever have online tailoring suits for mens and ladies, not necessary only historic clothes, I'd love to attend as well. I'm fascinating by "the science" and secrets behind a jacket construction.
I absolutely love these types of videos! Thanks for sharing all this wisdom, it makes my daydreaming about tailoring feel more accessible!
i tried using tape along a neckline and it’s left a weird indent in the profile of my silhouette and now my neckline is slightly funky. always more to learn!
Thank you so much, I've been So. Confused. about wool
This is just incredibly useful! I've been using linen as interfacing because I had scraps of it, and couldn't warrant the expense of horsehair canvas, but now I'll happily stick to the linen for most uses!
very helpful especially the beginning when talking about interfacings.
Fantastic video. Very well done. I found myself smiling when I heard the intro music come on. It's almost like I'm sitting down and handsewing with a friend (because that is what I am usually doing while watching these videos).💛
Okay, self taught seamstress, (yeah…old term, still prefer it) and this was by far the most information in a digestible format. 😊Thank you.
I really wanna dive deeper into tailoring in the future, so this video is just wonderful! Thank you! Now I wanna buy ALL THE TWEED! 🙈
I've been longing for a video like this for so long, and finally it's here! Thank you so much. I was wondering forever if horsehair canvas was really the only interfacing option for historical garments.