Waistcoats! - A small guide
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- The single breasted tweed waistcoat as well as the V-buttoned waistcoat were made according to our sewing book. There is no shop where you can buy them! But you can buy our book (including sewing patterns): vintagebursche.de/sewing-vint... (unsere deutsche Version, gibt es sogar als richtiges Buch mit gedruckten Schnittmusterbögen vintagebursche.de/shop/)
The grey double-breasted waistcoat I'm wearing in the video is made by Simon James Cathcart. A store you can find on my list of shops and brands here: vintagebursche.de/shops-and-br...
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Yeah, finally a new video. Sorry you had to wait so long! I started working on a Dark Academia Lookbook and also want to do a room tour including all the nice stuff I put into my new study room, but finding nice filming locations is difficult right now and my room isn't finished, yet. So I prepared something quick for you.
Also: I am conducting interviews on my Twitch channel (twitch.tv/vintagebursche) now. It's German, but I intend to produce little summaries including English subtitles. Just be patient with me. It's so much work. Thanks for your support and let's have a great 2021 together!
a dark academia vintagebursche will be the perfect start to 2021
Is it awkward to wear just waistcoat and pants without the jacket ?
The size Sir. How do you size the waist coat? Do you size it, a size down from the size of the suit???
My husband’s new tailor said short fat men do not wear waist coats he replied this short fat man wears waist coats
So does this short, fat man. As should any short, fat man.
Incredibly short here so I feel his pain even when it’s the correct size it’s always too long 😖😖.
I am a tall slim man and when I wore a waistcoat once, my friends told me: "only short, fat men wear waistcoats". So I stopped wearing them, unfortunately.
@@henderonatender7560 trust me just wear what you like you are the only person who you have to make happy 👍🏻👍🏻. Tall skinny people look even better in waist coats 👍🏻👍🏻.
@@spotsill Check out the channel The Modest Man. Great information for shorter gents.
I love the background where you shoot your videos
Thank you! I will do a room tour asap.
You look so great in that waistcoat, it almost tricks they eyes into not seeing the lack of a jacket.
a waistcoat can be a great garment in its own right ^^
I love waistcoats too, but they are not easy to find in women's. When you do find one it's hideous, the worst cut you will every see. Making my own is the next step..thanks for the information on style and pockets; I never thought about the pockets I just thought it was personal preference.
That's smart and I hope it goes well for you! I've always wanted one but I never liked the cut in women's waistcoats and men's waistcoats dont really fit me well either. I might try getting a men's coat and having it tailored
My sister prefers men's waistcoats for herself. I'm soon to be learning to make them myself.
@@dcarbs2979 I think the length is the key. Women's styles are always too short, it doesn't allow for that clean professional look.
@@deborahf3738 maybe this could be an inspiration for you? I think it looks absolutely amazing.
i.pinimg.com/originals/47/65/66/47656660fbe3e704b2193b5ffa8ab47f.jpg
Just make your own clothes and never look back.
This is a good start to waistcoat wearing, but I believe that a waistcoat can be worn as a casual item as well. I have several casual waistcoats which I am happy to wear nearly all the time. Admittedly I have a unique and personal style that I have curated over time that uses modern items to emulate the working class style of the first half of the 20th century Britain.
I prefer my waistcoats to have collars as they negate the need for a jacket in warmer weather, and 3 or 4 pockets are nice because who doesn't like pockets?
3:05 Glad you stated this. I wear a waistcoat fully buttoned against general advice that one "must" leave the bottom button undone as per King Edward style.
You remind me of my grandfather when he was young. Always dapper and well heeled. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and I love to hear you speak.
Your advice is very witty!!! Thanks!! All the best from Italy 🇮🇹!
I've become a fan of waistcoats ever since I purchased one for my mother's steam punk themed birthday party.
Thanks for this informative video. I love waistcoats an introduction to my wardrobe this year and you made me think about how to combine with my existing garments.
Guten Rutsch wünsch ich dir, Niklas!
Thank you for taking the time to share both your knowledge and opinion on waist coats and men's fashion in general. I would have liked for you to show us different ideas for contrasting waist coats with matching suits as appropriate. Also , I'm not sure if you play much golf but would love to see you shoot a video of what appropriate golf attire in the early 1920s would have looked like with a sports jacket vs sports sweater. I watched your plus four video which was great but there is so much more to cover in that style of dress in my opinion. Such as use of wool vs tweed, and so forth. Lovely video, thank you!
A waistcote makes your suit complete, that does not depend on height or weight, you simply look more complete dressed.
I never leave my house without a waistcote. And, for a man with a little bit more corpulence (like I am) a waistcote gives the body shape, I think.
I sometimes wear a waistecoat insead of my corset and agree, they are great at giving shape ^^
@@edwardteach3080 I prefer high closed waistcoats, a bit like a slipover. And they shouldn't be too long downward, just cover the waistband. Look for pictures of the early 20th century.
You really want to test my patience 😂 I need to finish my other sewing projects before starting with my waistcoat but the temptation is strong
That was just so much information in six and a half minutes. Thank you for the video!
greating's from france ,thanks for your incredible work and personality ,have a very happy new year !
I love waistcoats my self. Keep the work. I enjoy your videos.
There is our man! Happy New Year!
All the best Niklas in the new year of 2021. Keep going strong
I love waistcoats, by themselves they're sleek and energetic without sacrificing the formal look, and with an overcoat they really add that piece which separates formal wear from looking too much like office attire
Waistcoats are the best! Thank you for this informative video!
Nice snor
Love the style.
..."But first - dramatic intro."
Perfection.
thanks for making this video it's really helpfull for me , really really thankyou so much 🥰
In summer, sometimes I would like to stay cool, and I usually wear a waistcoat and a shirt outdoors. A waistcoat is really a good piece to make you look more formal and more decent when not wearing a suit jacket.
"Don't let your tailor make your waistcoat too slim in the waist"
*sound of Prince Albert scoffing loudly*
Finally cool enough here in Los Angeles to use a nice chocolate wool J. Crew waistcoat this week. Contrasted against a smart Zegna cashmere jacket. That was a 3-compliment day. Oh yes.
Love your aesthetic 🔥🔥💯
I personally love the lounge suit, I get all my three pieces cut from 1890-1900 patterns and their constructed like my workwear, not flattering like a fitted suit but definitely period looking.
Great! It would be nice to hear in addition your thoughts about waist coats and ties. Color, fabric, style, size of the knot or even no tie?
Finally a new video! I have been watching your German steams but I don’t understand Dutch!
You mean German. Dutch is what you speak in the Netherlands. :D
@@Vintagebursche my bad!
@@jazzmorgan859Dutch and Deutsch do have the samy etimoligy
tho. Grüße aus den Niederlanden.🤣
Nicole Rudolph has a video about the changes in English men's clothing in the 19th century (and why it became relatively boring.) She includes pictures from the Met museum collection - one is a black waistcoat with an elaborate floral design, possibly embroidered. Others are various plaids.
Such designs would be strong contrasts with most men's suits, although they could be too bright for some tastes. "Contrast" need not be plain.
A lot of people like to hate on my style, but my coolest outfit I wear is a pair of black combat cargo pants tucked into a pair of Doc Martens 1914s, white button up, blueish-grey tweed waistcoat, fingerless leather gloves. A friend told me I look like Dr.Richthofen from COD, and I don’t disagree lol
Hi - love the videos. Do you mind saying what the two cons to lapels on the waistcoat are? I heard the one about adding girth, but I couldn't understand the first one. Many thanks!
Nice video. It would be also nice if you made one talking about your experience with Hockerty, the configuration you chose, the fit, if it's worth it...
I actually ordered at Hockerty live on my Twitch stream a couple of weeks ago. I will do a review and unboxing January 5th. After that I will try to make a summary of the stream including English subtitles.
Helpful and informative
Waistcoats can also give a smoother look to the chest and back, which makes some people feel more confident in them.
Very handsome young man. Yes, a waistcoat sure makes one look sharp. Thank you all your information. I'm starting a new career that requires a bit of dress but not really a suit and tie. This is the perfect look for me. Thank you from beautiful Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA
Great video. Thank you.
Lovely!!! 🙂
how long should a waistcoat be if you want the 1920 peaky blinders look?
is there a way to meassure it specifically? im 187 cm tall with long legs so i dont want to buy one that is to short
Pleas, make video about how to find and shop vintage clothing.
Very good video. Big fan of waist coats !
Know this is not really the focus of your videos, but would LOVE if you ever get the chance on how to fit the waist coat to a female figure. Would love to add more waistcoats to my life, but want to look a bit more "put together"!
The question is which kind of waistcoat? Are you looking to adapt a men's cut to a feminine figure or are you looking to just have a good fitting women's waistcoat? If the latter, I would check out the made to measure patterns from Bootstrap Fashion. If the former, I'm currently muddling through trying to do the same. It is really complicated to successfully get a waistcoat, which is made to lay on a more or less flat chest, to have a similar yet flattering look on a rounded figure (I have a smaller frame with a large bust. If you aren't so three dimensional, this will be probably be significantly easier). And I'm doing a single-breasted waistcoat with no lapels. Just figuring out where to put the pockets so they are complementary to the figure was hard enough. Still trying to get the shoulder seams, armscye, and neck to look and fit right.
I'm wearing a matching 3 peace suit on my wedding the 23 april, and i'm wondering if i should button the jacket or leave it open?
Best regards from Denmark
@vintagebursche Hi! Ich habe einen braunen Fischgrät Anzug, miss die Weste im selben Muster sein? Den Anzug gab es nur als 2-Teiler, eine Weste müsste ich nachkaufen. Als Kontrast dann eher eine dunkle oder Helle Weste? Danke!
What is your opinion on leather wait coats? I'm thinking of buying one but can't decide to get one with or without the collar
I have a SB notch lapel suit jacket, can i pair it with DB peak lapel vest?
Does the contrasting rule also work for patterns like stripe and check how does it fare when you take a pattern suit and use a solid waistcoat or vice versa. Also is it possible to alter the pants to be a higher rise as it appears high rise is uncommon in the states. Thanks for the videos
Vintagebursche you talked about long and short waistcoats but where is the length to sit? I made one for my nephew but it came out too short. Does it touch the belt or go over? Ty🍁
I’m looking to replace the cheap black plastic buttons on my reproduction hunting waistcoat, what would be appropriate?
I slso love waistcoats, but I have very wide hips so it's difficult to find one that fits. Usually I have to buy one that's 2 or even 3 sizes too big and then tailor it smaller everywhere except the hip area, or add vents at the sides. Shorter waistcoats far more often fit me though, as they don't cover the hip area.
Ich bin erstaunt, wie viele Landsmänner Kleidungs-und Stil-Videos auf Englisch veröffentlichen^^
I am wondering what about same fabric waistcoat+bottoms and contrasting jacket? Is that an option?
I was just looking for this video! Question: what type of lapels should your waistcoat ideally have if you are wearing a suit jacket with peak lapels?
To be honest: it doesn't really matter, because you can't see the type of the waistcoat lapel as long as you are wearing the jacket. So just go with whatever looks best without the jacket.
@@Vintagebursche Nice, thanks :)
Great comprehensive, yet compact information. Thanks! Even though I'm almost in the third year of my menswear journey, I still find it hard to nonchalantly pull of my odd waistcoats. There is this extra bit of determination required. If one is going for a less "re-enactmentish" style of classic menswear, I would certainly recommend checking out Walker Slater's waistcoats: subdued and easy to combine fabric choices and overall great value for money.
Hast du Erfahrung mit Walker Slater, Niklas? In Sachen Schnitt m.E. sogar noch etwas besser und zeitloser als Hockerty John Crocket. Grüße!
Ich hatte mal einen Walker Slater Anzug in der Hand, der mir allerdings viel zu groß war. Online Shopping war kein Spaß, weil ich auf den 50 Euro Versandkosten sitzen geblieben bin. Die Qualität ist allerdings hervorragend. Das nächste Mal muss ich im Laden anprobieren. Grundsätzlich sehen die Schnitte aber sehr gut aus. Wie du schon schreibst, zeitloser als bei Hockerty oder JC.
@@Vintagebursche Meine Weste von denen fiel etwas zu klein aus, was ich mir aber erst zu spät eingestanden hab. Nun muss ich das ganze unschönerweise mit einem (kontrastierenden?) Streifen Seide an beiden Seiten erweitern, fürchte ich. Der einzige Nachteil von Westen: in der Regel keine Nahtzugabe.
could somebody help me where I could find a waistcoat like at 4:07? (the "inbetween" button stance)
What about a tweed waistcoat with a sport coat outfit?
I wear a blue tweed waistcoat with a lighter brown sport coat and some sort of neutral trousers, usually navy.
I’m very curious about this sort of “casual” use of a waistcoat
Very true
I am very much in favor of a man in a waistcoat. I think they look very handsome. I enjoy your channel a lot, and I find your content always fascinating. Thank you for all your hard work.
Moin Vintagebursche Gäbe es die Möglichkeit so ein Waistcoat Video auch mal auf Deutsch zu machen , und auch die Erklärung zwischen der Anzug und Casual Weste ?
Beste Grüße und vielen Dank für deine tollen Videos
If I wanted to make a waistcoat to be worn with a tuxedo for a formal wedding (but not white tie) but my plan is to embroider it reminiscent of Georgian/regency era embroidered waistcoats, would a white vest with embroidery still be too formal or would the colors of the embroidery bring it down a notch in terms of formality? I’m not sure I want to do embroidery on a black fabric. I might go for a near-white instead of a proper white, though - like a very very light blue or silver? I’m brainstorming at the moment so if anyone has ideas or suggestions, I’m open to them. :) I’d ideally like to end up with something that is also wearable perhaps with a suit, although that will depend on the neckline of the tuxedo and the cut the waistcoat has to be to suit that.
I have a waistcoat and pants of the same color but I dont have a suit. I only have a double breasted brown coat. will that do?
Get a sport jacket is good,a coat is the outerwear,and we always need to take off the coat inside a building,except it was a frock coat(body coat)
does broken suit mean that the trousers don't necessary math the suit and waistcoat? Thanks
Yes.
What kind of waistcoat would you recommend for someone who is 6'8" and 420 pounds (size 5XL)?
What is a broken suit?
I don't know what you mean by making the waistcoat shoulder line to 'match your shoulders'. What does this mean and how do you know if a waistcoat shoulder line doesn't match yours?
I absolutely love waistcoats but being short I often find myself disappointed with the way they fit off the rack. The problem is that no matter what kind of brand, size or model of waistcoat I look for, there is always no decent piece I can wear with minimal alterations just like I do with jackets. The only thing to solve this is bespoke. I would love a 1920s hourglass-shaped 3 piece suit just like yours, but I doubt it would look half as good on me...Oh boy, I was granted many gifts, but height is certainly none of those ahahah
Which edges are you talking about in 4:28? I can't recognize them.
In my short and occasional experience - you look formal wearing waistcoat, even if paired with denim jeans!
Especially if you have pocket watch =)
I want a waistcoat so bad
I have a question. I have a two piece Italian perennial suit. I wanted to get a vest to go with it but not sure what color is right. The suit is dark navy blue, shirt is lilac and the tie is kinda red. What would you recommend ?
I'd probably pick a mid-grey. In terms of brightness somewhere between the dark navy and lilac.
I appreciate your response Wouldn’t be too busy with lots of colors ? Dark navy suit, lilac shirt, red tie, and light grey vest?
@@CybersecurityBdarija That's the reason I suggest grey. It's more ore less a noncolor. On the other hand you will not find a waistcoat that is exactly the some color as one of the other items, so a mid blue waistcoat would be an actual additional color and that is probably too much.
Personally I want to invest some money into a customa made waistcoat. I picked up fabric of 100% wool, yet I am not sure, whether 450g/m^2 is suitable for winter-themed double brested waistcoat or if it is a bit too heavy and I should go for some lighter fabric. I live in Czechia so the winter is about the same as say Germany. Any ideas/advices, please?
Is there a video showing how to safely remove the sewing of waistcoat pockets made by this fine gentleman?
Eine Idee für das Intro
Du könntest mal einige neue Clips in das Intro einbauen. Die Musik kann ja die selbe bleiben,aber ich finde du hast seit dem Anfang des Kanals einige Clips die besser fürs Intro sind.
Ist es üblich einen Waistcoat ohne Jacket darüber zu tragen und wenn man das macht, was würdest du empfehlen: single oder double breasted?
Kann man zuhause machen. Außer Haus ohne Jackett finde ich schwierig.
@@Vintagebursche Okay, danke sehr
Hallo darf ich als Deutscher auch was zum Thema Anzüge mit weste sagen ??
Ich versuche jetzt schon 2 Jahre einen Anzug mit weste zu finden das Problem in Deutschland gibt es die so gut wie nie im Handel und selbst in Anzug Laden sagt man zu mir willst du wie ein Opa aussehen ?? das ist nicht Modern und Trägt keiner mehr.
Hello, as a German, may I also say something about suits with a vest?
I've been trying to find a suit with a vest for 2 years now. The problem in Germany is there almost never in stores and even in a suit shop they say to me you want to look like a grandpa? this is not modern.
I always look for a chest pocket, when looking for a waist coat.
I love waistcoats, but about 270 days per year where I live achieve or exceed that 30 degrees Celsius mark. :-(
Me always did have a thing for 'em,
*Waistc❤️ats‼️* 👌
Maybe it adds some familiarity… but if you got a direction in your life and you want to put your best foot forward then even in casual circumstances you have a “why”… and then you can bare any “how”.
Seeing that European Society in all our lands has been lowered to the point that a dress shirt is fancy. The waistcoat even on its own elevates an outfit.... And you'll be the best well dressed guy in the room...
I'm missing some more examples from you, where you'd show us some contrasting options etc. 😉
Is that a deerstalker coat in the back? If so, can we see it!
I made a whole video about sewing it.
@@Vintagebursche Awesome, will check it out. I just found your channel, so still exploring)
Uff, kleine Frage, hat jemand eine Ideen wie ich diese Kleidung auf einen 40cm großen und 60Jahre alten Teddy Bären anwenden kann? Meine Mutter wünscht sich Kleidung für ihren alten Teddy und ich soll es nähen, ich habe zwar ein Beispielbild im Internet gefunden, was die Kleidung angeht ( Jacke, Weste, Mütze, Hose, Hemd), aber keine richtigen Schnittmuster und Anleitungen, die man kaufen kann.
Does anyone know a tutorial on how to actually do the shortening of a waistcoat? I am learning how to alter my clothes rn and I do not want to mess up my waistcoat but I need to shorten it and I do not know how
Shortening a waistcoat is close to impossible, because of the pockets. Those can't be moved.
@@Vintagebursche Yeah but you can take them in at the shoulders right? You told about that in your video on how to make modern clothes look more vintage
@@DenisZaharenko yes, but just around a centimeter and only if the waistcoat doesn't close high.
@@Vintagebursche Oh I see. So there is no hoe if the waistcoat is much too long?
@@Vintagebursche Oh I see. So there is no hope if the waistcoat is much too long?
Some pictures or actual waistcoats would definitely help understanding.
Even farmers and ranchers wear waist coats .then their is the silk brocade waist coat for a banker or gambler.
Does it bother anyone else that the main part of the video is mirrored?
Salvador Dali remerged again this time to talk about men's fashion 🔥
You have not been to the hairdresser's for a while now, have you? 😉 Damn epidemic...
It gets up to 34°C where I live... oh well...
Disclaimer, I got no clue, beside adoreing my fathers waredrobe I have practicly no contact with male fashion and my father aint high society either. What follows is just my personal unrefinded taste.
I do not like matching 3 piece suits, they tend to look to much and undefined to my eye. The pieces blure togeather, the lines get swallowed, you can not really see what is going on . . .
A well chosen contrasting waistcoat on the other hand is one of the best ways to upgrade a look. Due to it contrasting you can apriciate it in its own right or if something more subtil is chosen, it highlights the jacket. You can chose a stunning waistcoat and a more subdue suite, a stunning suit and a more subdue waistcoate or both on a similar moderate level where they both add to the other nicely without looking to much.
Matching waistcoat and throusers/skirts can look very nice togeather too, but that is more casual.
Saint denis clothing shop
First!!
Even before my comment. Nice! :D
I love your work 🔥
Fun fact: This video was made in the 20th century and released in the 21st century.
I would appreciate more pictures for illustration. Also, I did not understand all the terms you used, and you did not define them.
There is no better item in men's clothing than the waistcoat. I will not be taking any criticism at this time.
Nice video, my tip visit your local tailor and have the armpit slimmed down or pulled out on the waistcoat you wear now to create a far better fit. It now leads the eye away from the viewer, I assume you dont prefer that?
I am a waste man and can’t afford a waste cost, to contain my waste, unfortunately my waist shows because I have no waste coat to keep it warm.