Just finished this...hardest part is definitely the waterpump/lower inner timing belt cover, it's just poorly placed and a snug fit. Everything else is pretty straightforward. I recommend getting a quality T30 bit. I sheared a bunch trying to get the cam position wheels off the back of the cams. Went through a bunch of dewalts, milwaukee's, and craftsmans...Makita's did it easy with my impact gun. Projectfarm also has a good video showing some of the best torx bits. For those that like to do everything by the book in terms of torques. 180Nm for the 30mm crank nut. The 4 bolts on the vibration dampener are torqued to 25Nm then an additional 60 degrees. U shape mount on the motor mount that bolts to the body is 90Nm. The engine mount to the engine bracket is 133Nm. Rear cam position wheels are 20Nm. Tensioner and Idler are both 24Nm. Waterpump and Oil pump are 10Nm. Cam gears to cams are 120Nm. Cam gear plugs are 35Nm. That should cover all the important torques.
went and got some Makita impact rated T30s and barely got the first one out with an impact wrench. Removed the battery so I could get an impact wrench in to remove the exhaust bolt, and that's what stripped the exhaust bolt clean. Absurd that they expect those things to come off. Going to bypass trying to change the cam seals and hope I can complete the rest of the job without locking the cams and just relying on timing marks.
This was my first time finding an FCP video. I've done lots of car work on my own, and watched tons of how-to videos, and have never seen anything close to this detail of steps taken, and great camera work as well. Well done!!
@@fcpeuro sorry to bother , all your stuff has been great I’m not a mechanic but I put new head on my c 30 did you mean that you had tention on drive side on timing belt or did you mean no tention you said you had very little tention
This was super useful. Managed to change the belt on my Volvo C70 and I knew almost nothing about cars (until now!). Water pump removal and cam position wheel bolts were by far the hardest parts
Eternally grateful for this video I've worked on cars for a couple of years but this was my most intricate one yet. Watching this video at least 5 times throughout gave me the confidence to do it. I will also include the fact that the timing tensioner dial has to be maxed out to the right side then brought back to appropriate temperature adjustment and the cam locking tool is absolutely critical..for information sake I did a 2008 c70 with this information.. Thank you
Best way to support these great people is to buy from theme. They do have very fair prices and the customer service is top notch too. My S60 was restored thanks to FCP Euro's videos and parts. Now iim looking to do the same on an S40.
Agreed. Not only are their prices good but their customer service is second to none. When you call them, you actually talk to people who know how to work on these things. That's a BIG value in buying from them.
Great video ! If anything, this should convince a volvo novice that this may not be the job you want to tackle without the right service tools and a very clear understanding of the job and its caveats. Pull the plugs and slowly rotate the engine twice before verifying that all the marks are lined up, No mistakes !
36:35 Carefully wrap duct tape around the crank spline, staggered pieces so it makes a smooth transition to the final step and resting place of the crank seal. Lube up your duct taped spline and ease the oil pump on it, carefully watching to make sure the crank seal does not turn inside out. I did this and it was easier than being a dentist with a pick, those seals are delicate and have an "o" spring inside, when it pops out its kinda hard to get it back in carefully. FCP Euro your the best! I love you guys!
I completed this repair over the weekend using this video as a guide. Having this video to reference was a game changer and everything I ordered from FCP Euro fit perfectly and was very high quality.
YOU SAVED MY LIFE WITH THIS VIDEO. IM A MOM AND POP SHOP TECH AND WE DONT GET MANY VOLVOS BUT YOU MADE THIS FIX EASY TO FOLLOW AND EVERYTHING WAS WELL EXPLAINED. YA HIRING LOL?
Wow, what a great tutorial! This is the video I've been waiting on. After six months of having a timing belt kit sitting on the ol' workbench, its going onto the car! thank you fcp for all you do for us diy'ers. Keep on keeping on+
Anyone I’m struggling with this tentioner it doesn’t want to seed in the block how far should it be in and should right side be tight? Mine loose having trouble getting Allen key on too I lowered engine
Really tempted to give this a go considering the entire timing belt kit on FCP Euro is like 300 bucks vs paying for parts and 1k in labor... Great video.
Please do a front subframe removal video next please! I havent found any writeups especially for the AWD p1 Volvos! Its extremely useful for getting to our downpipe and front sway bar as well!
Heck that was sick, was about to buy S40, first gen phase 2, but after watching how you much tear half of the car apart to change the timing belt I must reconsider :D
Its not so bad on the older ones, the new ones have a lot of wiring and shit everywhere and the engine bay is pretty narrower overall. And if youre changing just the belt you dont have to do a lot of the steps on the video
Just completed this job thanks to this video. Amazing resource thanks so much for uploading it. One thing which would have helped was how much coolant is needed. I didn't buy enough😢... excellent video though
Correct place to look the Camshaft timing mark are on the top plastic cover, when it is in place. The factory marks are located there. Never trust the previous markings, if some one else has done those.
So I tried something interesting, I had an AI transcribe this video. Then I had ChatGTP write detailed instructions in the form of bullet points that are easy to follow as you do the job so you don't have to keep going back to the video unless you get stuck somewhere. I'm sure it has missed some details, but the point is for someone like me who has a terrible memory and possibly ADHD to be able to stay on task during a long and tedious task. Here it is, I'm probably going to watch through the video one more time and make some edits and add some details in the near future. I hope you find this useful or at least interesting. Replacing Timing Belt and Cam Seals on a P1 Volvo: Preparation: Gather tools: wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 19mm), Allen keys, torx bits (T25, T30, T55), screwdrivers, pliers, dead blow hammer, ratchet, sockets, torque wrench. Obtain replacement parts: timing belt, cam seals, gaskets, Loctite, antifreeze/coolant. Removal: Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety. Lift the car's front and secure with jack stands. Remove the front passenger-side wheel. Timing Belt Removal: Detach accessory belts (AC, power steering) from pulleys. Remove engine underbody panel. Loosen and remove engine mount. Remove upper front cover and crankshaft pulley. Unscrew timing belt covers' fasteners and remove covers. Mark camshaft sprockets and timing components. Loosen tensioner and remove old timing belt. Remove camshaft sprockets. Cam Seals Replacement: Remove old cam seals using pick or screwdriver. Install new cam seals evenly using seal installation tool. Clean camshaft and seal bore area thoroughly. Reinstall camshaft sprockets, aligning with marks. Timing Belt Installation: Install new timing belt, aligning with reference marks. Temporarily position tensioner and adjust tension. Tighten tensioner bolt securely. Double-check timing mark alignment. Cam Phaser Installation: Install exhaust and intake cam phasers. Tighten cam phaser bolts using T30 torx bit. Reassembly: Reinstall engine mount and tighten bolts. Reconnect wiring harnesses, hoses, brackets. Securely install timing belt covers. Reattach crankshaft pulley and upper front cover. Reinstall accessory belts. Lower the car and reinstall passenger-side wheel. Fill coolant reservoir with antifreeze/coolant mixture. Cooling System Burping: Start engine to let air escape from cooling system. Monitor coolant level and add more as needed. Final Checks: Inspect timing mark alignment. Torque front wheel nuts properly. Ensure all connections are secure. Inspect engine bay for leaks or unusual noises. Always refer to the specific service manual for accurate procedures and torque specifications.
I just wanted to know how not to keep braking the tensioner pulley where Allen key goes in and did he mean no tention on drive side said that wanted lots of tention on drive side but in video said see how there is very little tention
Great video, best I've seen for a timing belt. One question though - Why do you need to mark the sprockets if the cams are locked at TDC? I would think that if you release the tensioner, take off the old belt and replace the new one with the cams locked then once you unlock the cams you would have to be good to go, right?? Thx!
Leaking cam seals often are due to a groove worn into the surface of the vvt sprocket's lip and not necessarily a failed rubber seal. Replacing the seals in that scenario will not fix your leak. The groove has to be removed or covered with a sleeve. There are often "ready sleeves" available for this problem.
I used a little trick for it - carefuly reduce thick of new o ring by 0,5 mm on inner side - it will not affect seal ability and blade goes outside the groove. Still no leak after 80 thousands km.
This is a great video. But setting up an engine rebuild I've noticed my intake cam (locked off with the proper tool at the back) that the sprocket is off about half a tooth. From what I understand here is, the cams are set and really, other than convenience of the timing mark, the sprocket position doesn't matter? As such can I undo the sprocket and move it back half a tooth before putting the belt on, then tightening the sprocket after setting the tension?
This is such a great tutorial! I saw a few torque specs on the blog but it would be nice to have them all since there are many critical fasteners removed and re-installed during this procedure. I've done this job on my P2 S60 and although it is possible to push in the cam seals by hand or using a PVC coupler, that tool you use in this video is well worth the money when you consider you only really get one chance to put the seal in right. Do the cam sprocket bolts have red thread locker from the factory? That seems like it could be a problem if those sprockets need to come off again in the future. The red thread locker is tough to break and those bolts are already difficult to remove. Great job. Thanks!
Can anyone reply , on this timing belt video did he say he wants tention on right side and drive side of belt ? Because he said as you can see that there is very little tention on right side isnt that drive side he said has no problem with water pump side being loose
Hey joe I’m doing the job right now and I can’t possibly get the tension on the right side of the belt only the left no matter how many times I try to re do it the slack is always on the right
Great video watching this gave me the courage to take apart a Volvo. One question I had was Does the green gasket for the oil pump come in the kit? Edit: I did buy this kit from you. Wish I just sourced out what I needed myself could have saved some money. However this was a good videos so I guess buying from you isent my worst decision. If anyone is wondering this kit does not come with the front seals for the oil pump. Bought a felpro set dirt cheap. It does for some strange reason come with the rear main seal... why I have no idea
Great video.. would this also apply to a 2015 V60 cross country with 5 cylinder 2.5 liter? Also would you have the torque specs on those bolts on water pump and oil pump.
Maybe you should look at a video showing how to mark sprocket in 2 places because it's spring loaded and you have to move it back when putting belt on then let it spring to finally mark......I think
Should you run into the issue of not being able to get the cam position sensor bolt removed, you do not need to weld anything to it as mentioned. Just drill it out. Once the head of the bolt is drilled, the shaft can be removed by hand or with a pliers. 5 minutes each. Remove the battery to gain better access to the exhaust bolt.
If you drill the head off of the bolt, only the shank remains. You slide off the sensor, and the remaining bolt will either hand loosen or use pliers to remove. The bolt head is what was providing the clamping force
Snap 3 t30 the second t30 striped the intake cam bolt. The last one was a impact t30 with a impact gun and it snapped doing those rear cam bolts tried my forth t30 and a impact driver a hammer and I even used a torch with PB blaster and it still didn't come loose not sure who did this before but last resort is definitely welding a nut cause this is stupid for sure
Removing the passenger side upper motor mount lets you drop the engine down enough to easily remove the water pump without hitting the frame rail. Atleast it wasn't an issue at all for me.
Great video...thank you. I do have a question. I have got belt off and timing belt parts on. I am doing cam seals. The cam sprockets moved off mark while putting on cam lock tool on back. Can i just put everything back on marks and put belt on? The crank stayed on mark because i had it wedged with 30m and bar. I have not yet taken sprockets off to put on seals.
I need to correct you about the procedure about the vvt... The correct way to set up the timing and the vvt's, is to set at dtc the cranckshaft with the special tool, locked the camshafts at the back of the head with the special tool also, as you did. Install all the pulleys and sprockets, BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE VVT BOLTS LOOSE. Install the timing belt all around, tighten it as spec AND THEN YOU CAN TIGHTEN THE VVT BOLTS. If you tighten the bolts before installing the belt, you'll be pushing or pulling the belt with the cam sprockets and will be not perfectly aligned and synchronized with the crankshaft. This same procedure is used other brands and models...
What if before removal of the belt you can not put on the locking tool because it is not aligned? Do i need to loosen both cam bolds so that i can shift the camshaft without turing the sprockets because the belt is still on?? Or how should it be done? I wanna do mine soon. Have the same engine in the Ford S Max 2.5T
@@stylo8133 if the crank is locked and you cant fit the tool in the cams then obviously the timing is of. So in that case you would have to lock the crank and loosed the sprocket bolts then fit the cam locking tool and retighten the sprocket bolts to 120nm
@@stylo8133 The theory is that you have to find the tdc, put the crank pin, and then the cams locking tool. If for some reason you can't get the locking tool, you can loosen the cams bolts and get the cams in position with the locking tool. Then, let say you want to replace the belt, you have to install it and set the tensioner. With the crank pin installed, the locking tool installed, the cams sprockets aligned, the belt installed and the tensioner set, then you can adjust the cam bolts. That's the proper way to do it.
If The cam lock tool does not fit on perfectly, you may have to turn the crank another revolution. The slots in the ends of the cams are off center a bit, and the corresponding blades in the tool are as well.
Can you just turn the slots with the tool? I have ran into this problem and saw video of guy turn the slots with a screw driver. I turned mine with tool but still not perfect lined up.
IF YOU FILL YOUR COOLANT AS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO YOU CAN BLOW YOUR ENGINE. The thermostat doesn't allow water through and the engine could be run dry if the air is not bled out. To do it you have to pull the upper radiator hose off and fill into radiator.
Is the cam looking tool really necessary? As i saw on another video there are timing marks all over the engine for the crank shaft pulley and for the cam gears too..the cam gear marks are on the plastic cover that you take off towards the cylinder number 1. So if you aling your cam gears to the mark on the plastic cover and crank shaft to the mark on the block. You are good.
So hypothetically speaking if one were to strip the intake cam t30…. The procedure now becomes return the cam seals and just do the belt and water pump?
You don't really have to mark the sprockets once you have locked the cams in place with the special looking tool. They don't have any grooves to position them in relation to the cams. Once the belt is tensioned correctly just torque them to spec. It's in someway like the BMW/Mini/Peugeot n13/ep6 engine when it comes to the timing sistem reassembly.
Any advice to get the 30mm crank nut off? I'm using a high quality impact driver with no luck. So far have only tried PB blaster and haven't tried heat. Wondering what else I can try to break this thing loose. Thanks in advance!
"The Devil is in the Details", nicely done, If I have this done at the dealership (Sarasota), will they follow the same procedures using the same tools? Thanks for this video.
bro crazy how detailed you are about everything that means nothing.. but the 1 thing you didn't touch on.. a very important thing. the tensioner pulley, how you have to max it out and bring it back into the window from the right side. while keeping tension on the bolt so it wont move? pls say its not important, cause i slowed your video to see if maybe you didn't do it.. wrong.,. you did. funny how you missed that and how you speed it up so it would be missed.. you work for Volvo? this what you call job security.. but hay you got all the details needed about the notch it sits in.. fyi no reply needed, just letting you know how very much your video helped, ish.. have a good one
@@anthonyserge2054 hey there can you give me directions on how to put this tentioner on ? I’m stuck I broke two so far I went back and messed with it because you said you want drive side tight but then you said. No you want very little tension on the right side
Can you tell me if there is a rear camshaft seal on both intake and exhaust mine had none my kit came with one, and when you did your belt bump count across the top what did you come up with 18 and what was your count down to the bottom of crank. by the way awesome video got mine running but turns off after a minute or two??????
Is the Idle Tensioner Pulley supposed to have about 2-3mm in-out movement? My xr5 turbo with the same engine has started making a bad rattle noise and I've checked everything else and it seems fine besides the in-out movement on the Timing Tensioner
Thanks for video. Is it possible to have a timing issue if I shredded my alternator belt? as I can’t get my Volvo to fire up after shredding my alternator belt.
I am getting impression that it is much harder to work around S40 (or P1 in general) in comparison with P2. Specifically I looked at timing belt job and PCV fix on 2001-2009 S60 and looks like it is somewhat less complicated. Am I right?
Curious what Should this Cost to do by a reputable Dealership...I live in NYC..would love you to do this Exactly for my 2008 Volvo C30 Turbo 2.5 P1..are you available this spring
Hello, I would like you to help me with some information: the oil meter rod of my car (Volvo V40 2002) is made of plastic and it broke in half, leaving one half inside. I would like to know if it ends up in the crankcase? Is it advisable to move the car like this? If it can cause serious damage? Your guidance would be of great help to me, please 😢
Hey, Nate, great Video!! My son brought a replacement motor for his XR5 turbo and I have noticed that the timing marks don't line up! The intake side lines up to the mark and the exhaust side is at about 3 o'clock position: Question what should I check before replacing the timing belts and seals! Thank you
I would suggest removing the valve cover and make certain that the cams lobes (all of them) are in the relative same location to each other from one engine to the other. if they are with in 10-20 degrees off the ideal location you shouldn't have an issue - the engine just wont run great. If they are 180 degree out it'll make contact.
If you use the cam locking tool, you cannot get the timing off. I realize that it is one extra step and a couple of cheap seals, but it's fool proof to use the locking tools to keep timing.
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Just finished this...hardest part is definitely the waterpump/lower inner timing belt cover, it's just poorly placed and a snug fit. Everything else is pretty straightforward. I recommend getting a quality T30 bit. I sheared a bunch trying to get the cam position wheels off the back of the cams. Went through a bunch of dewalts, milwaukee's, and craftsmans...Makita's did it easy with my impact gun. Projectfarm also has a good video showing some of the best torx bits. For those that like to do everything by the book in terms of torques. 180Nm for the 30mm crank nut. The 4 bolts on the vibration dampener are torqued to 25Nm then an additional 60 degrees. U shape mount on the motor mount that bolts to the body is 90Nm. The engine mount to the engine bracket is 133Nm. Rear cam position wheels are 20Nm. Tensioner and Idler are both 24Nm. Waterpump and Oil pump are 10Nm. Cam gears to cams are 120Nm. Cam gear plugs are 35Nm. That should cover all the important torques.
Thank you!
Did you buy all the special tools too?
I salute you. Nicely done.
went and got some Makita impact rated T30s and barely got the first one out with an impact wrench. Removed the battery so I could get an impact wrench in to remove the exhaust bolt, and that's what stripped the exhaust bolt clean. Absurd that they expect those things to come off. Going to bypass trying to change the cam seals and hope I can complete the rest of the job without locking the cams and just relying on timing marks.
Thanks, I'm attempting this on Saturday. I'm so nervous about those cam sensor bolts for cam lock, lol
This was my first time finding an FCP video.
I've done lots of car work on my own, and watched tons of how-to videos, and have never seen anything close to this detail of steps taken, and great camera work as well. Well done!!
Thanks you so much for the kind words!
@@fcpeuro sorry to bother , all your stuff has been great I’m not a mechanic but I put new head on my c 30 did you mean that you had tention on drive side on timing belt or did you mean no tention you said you had very little tention
This was super useful. Managed to change the belt on my Volvo C70 and I knew almost nothing about cars (until now!). Water pump removal and cam position wheel bolts were by far the hardest parts
youtube university at its finest. Pure GOLD!
Whow to receive de tcm 2010 volvo C70 T5
Recet
Eternally grateful for this video I've worked on cars for a couple of years but this was my most intricate one yet. Watching this video at least 5 times throughout gave me the confidence to do it. I will also include the fact that the timing tensioner dial has to be maxed out to the right side then brought back to appropriate temperature adjustment and the cam locking tool is absolutely critical..for information sake I did a 2008 c70 with this information.. Thank you
Best way to support these great people is to buy from theme.
They do have very fair prices and the customer service is top notch too.
My S60 was restored thanks to FCP Euro's videos and parts.
Now iim looking to do the same on an S40.
Agreed. Not only are their prices good but their customer service is second to none. When you call them, you actually talk to people who know how to work on these things. That's a BIG value in buying from them.
Great video ! If anything, this should convince a volvo novice that this may not be the job you want to tackle without the right service tools and a very clear understanding of the job and its caveats. Pull the plugs and slowly rotate the engine twice before verifying that all the marks are lined up, No mistakes !
36:35 Carefully wrap duct tape around the crank spline, staggered pieces so it makes a smooth transition to the final step and resting place of the crank seal. Lube up your duct taped spline and ease the oil pump on it, carefully watching to make sure the crank seal does not turn inside out. I did this and it was easier than being a dentist with a pick, those seals are delicate and have an "o" spring inside, when it pops out its kinda hard to get it back in carefully. FCP Euro your the best! I love you guys!
I completed this repair over the weekend using this video as a guide. Having this video to reference was a game changer and everything I ordered from FCP Euro fit perfectly and was very high quality.
Thats what we love to hear! Back on the road for miles to come.
YOU SAVED MY LIFE WITH THIS VIDEO. IM A MOM AND POP SHOP TECH AND WE DONT GET MANY VOLVOS BUT YOU MADE THIS FIX EASY TO FOLLOW AND EVERYTHING WAS WELL EXPLAINED. YA HIRING LOL?
Wow, what a great tutorial! This is the video I've been waiting on. After six months of having a timing belt kit sitting on the ol' workbench, its going onto the car! thank you fcp for all you do for us diy'ers.
Keep on keeping on+
Anyone I’m struggling with this tentioner it doesn’t want to seed in the block how far should it be in and should right side be tight? Mine loose having trouble getting Allen key on too I lowered engine
I work on a lot of Cars , this might be the best most thorough and detailed video I have ever seen , thanks a Milllion .. !!
I agree
Thank you for watching!
FINALLY! I've been waiting for a long time for a video of this quality on this job. THANK YOU!!!!
Really tempted to give this a go considering the entire timing belt kit on FCP Euro is like 300 bucks vs paying for parts and 1k in labor... Great video.
This video sets the standard. Pure excellence!
Best how to I’ve ever watched. Very detailed as to which tools to use. 👏👏
Please do a front subframe removal video next please! I havent found any writeups especially for the AWD p1 Volvos! Its extremely useful for getting to our downpipe and front sway bar as well!
The cam facing side of the sensor wheels are marked IN and EX for intake and exhaust, for those who can't find their sharpie.
they are keyed and cannot be reversed
That easy, hey!! Amazing video very well done as all FCP productions done by these gifted young professionals. Thanks a lot.
Gotta do the work on mine soon, this video helps out a lot! Glad I found this big lump of information plus the website has everything I need.
Glad it helped!
VERY GOOD VIDEO I LIKE HOW KNOWLEDABLE THIS PERSON IN VIDEO IS
Nate this was one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen. I think I can do this with your great help. Thank you.
You've got this!
Heck that was sick, was about to buy S40, first gen phase 2, but after watching how you much tear half of the car apart to change the timing belt I must reconsider :D
Its not so bad on the older ones, the new ones have a lot of wiring and shit everywhere and the engine bay is pretty narrower overall. And if youre changing just the belt you dont have to do a lot of the steps on the video
@@datsunalzheimer Was enough for me anyway, getting a Saab 900 1988 model :D
Fact! I'll stick with the P2 where there is some room to work, but still tiiiight.
Very comprehensive step by step video. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the video - made me decide to pass on a C30 needing this work...
From France.... Biggest thx to you for your work!!!
Just completed this job thanks to this video. Amazing resource thanks so much for uploading it. One thing which would have helped was how much coolant is needed. I didn't buy enough😢... excellent video though
Correct place to look the Camshaft timing mark are on the top plastic cover, when it is in place. The factory marks are located there. Never trust the previous markings, if some one else has done those.
Nice tip thanks!
Thank you very much Nate and FCP Euro
for your excellent tutorial video. You make a difficult job look easy. God bless you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video here! Now all I need is to get the correct tools and I'm on my way! Thanks for this very informative video!
You got this!
Awesome video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I have a C30 R-Design and I have to do this work on it. Thank you so much for this incredible tutorial video! Peace!
Fantastic video perfect camera work and editing, keep it up frends
Great video! really clears up everything the service procedures do not cover! Thank you!
So I tried something interesting, I had an AI transcribe this video. Then I had ChatGTP write detailed instructions in the form of bullet points that are easy to follow as you do the job so you don't have to keep going back to the video unless you get stuck somewhere. I'm sure it has missed some details, but the point is for someone like me who has a terrible memory and possibly ADHD to be able to stay on task during a long and tedious task.
Here it is, I'm probably going to watch through the video one more time and make some edits and add some details in the near future. I hope you find this useful or at least interesting.
Replacing Timing Belt and Cam Seals on a P1 Volvo:
Preparation:
Gather tools: wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 19mm), Allen keys, torx bits (T25, T30, T55), screwdrivers, pliers, dead blow hammer, ratchet, sockets, torque wrench.
Obtain replacement parts: timing belt, cam seals, gaskets, Loctite, antifreeze/coolant.
Removal:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety.
Lift the car's front and secure with jack stands.
Remove the front passenger-side wheel.
Timing Belt Removal:
Detach accessory belts (AC, power steering) from pulleys.
Remove engine underbody panel.
Loosen and remove engine mount.
Remove upper front cover and crankshaft pulley.
Unscrew timing belt covers' fasteners and remove covers.
Mark camshaft sprockets and timing components.
Loosen tensioner and remove old timing belt.
Remove camshaft sprockets.
Cam Seals Replacement:
Remove old cam seals using pick or screwdriver.
Install new cam seals evenly using seal installation tool.
Clean camshaft and seal bore area thoroughly.
Reinstall camshaft sprockets, aligning with marks.
Timing Belt Installation:
Install new timing belt, aligning with reference marks.
Temporarily position tensioner and adjust tension.
Tighten tensioner bolt securely.
Double-check timing mark alignment.
Cam Phaser Installation:
Install exhaust and intake cam phasers.
Tighten cam phaser bolts using T30 torx bit.
Reassembly:
Reinstall engine mount and tighten bolts.
Reconnect wiring harnesses, hoses, brackets.
Securely install timing belt covers.
Reattach crankshaft pulley and upper front cover.
Reinstall accessory belts.
Lower the car and reinstall passenger-side wheel.
Fill coolant reservoir with antifreeze/coolant mixture.
Cooling System Burping:
Start engine to let air escape from cooling system.
Monitor coolant level and add more as needed.
Final Checks:
Inspect timing mark alignment.
Torque front wheel nuts properly.
Ensure all connections are secure.
Inspect engine bay for leaks or unusual noises.
Always refer to the specific service manual for accurate procedures and torque specifications.
I like to do the oil filter housing and thermostat along with this, complete refresh for my glorious T5s'
Wow!!!!! Fantastic video. Best instructional video ever! Congrats! I wish you had a video teaching how to replace the vvt hub.
I watched this about 9 times. About to knock it out.
You've got this Paul!
@@fcpeuro do I need to drain the oil first? I've looked and asked around and everyone says I don't have to
Great vid. I want to understand it but I don't think I could do it myself. I got 50000km more to go.
Same here if I had a hoist and a workshop I might try it but I’ll just take it to a Volvo mechanic.
I just wanted to know how not to keep braking the tensioner pulley where Allen key goes in and did he mean no tention on drive side said that wanted lots of tention on drive side but in video said see how there is very little tention
Congrats my friend..great explanation and DIY...perfect...thanks a lot...
Great video, best I've seen for a timing belt. One question though - Why do you need to mark the sprockets if the cams are locked at TDC? I would think that if you release the tensioner, take off the old belt and replace the new one with the cams locked then once you unlock the cams you would have to be good to go, right?? Thx!
Volvooooo!!! Finally. Thanks
Lots of Volvo love on here recently!
@@fcpeuro receiving a 2005 Volvo S40 next week that has been sitting outside for 2-3 years so this is helpful!
Thank you so much for your video and your explanation of the process❤️
What can you do if the engine is running but not timed correctly, and you want to retime it correctly.
Great video, keep up the good work.
Do you have a video of replacing the head? My D5 S80 head cracked and debating whether I want to have a go at it myself or send it off to the mechanic
Awesome video!!! Thank you. I'm a fan!
Leaking cam seals often are due to a groove worn into the surface of the vvt sprocket's lip and not necessarily a failed rubber seal. Replacing the seals in that scenario will not fix your leak. The groove has to be removed or covered with a sleeve. There are often "ready sleeves" available for this problem.
I used a little trick for it - carefuly reduce thick of new o ring by 0,5 mm on inner side - it will not affect seal ability and blade goes outside the groove. Still no leak after 80 thousands km.
When putting the gaskets in place you can use a light mist of spray-on glue to hold them on to the pumps for a much easier install.
Good tip! Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, information, and skill.
👏 👏 👏 so thorough. We need more of this!
Please RSVP...I want this Guy to do it!! Very Very Smart Mechanic
This is a great video. But setting up an engine rebuild I've noticed my intake cam (locked off with the proper tool at the back) that the sprocket is off about half a tooth.
From what I understand here is, the cams are set and really, other than convenience of the timing mark, the sprocket position doesn't matter? As such can I undo the sprocket and move it back half a tooth before putting the belt on, then tightening the sprocket after setting the tension?
huge help just about to do my water pump in the 2002 C70
Great video, love fcpeuro
We love you too Herby!
@@fcpeuro you should as much as I spend there🤣👍🤠
This is a awesome DIY!!! GREAT WORK!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
This is such a great tutorial! I saw a few torque specs on the blog but it would be nice to have them all since there are many critical fasteners removed and re-installed during this procedure. I've done this job on my P2 S60 and although it is possible to push in the cam seals by hand or using a PVC coupler, that tool you use in this video is well worth the money when you consider you only really get one chance to put the seal in right. Do the cam sprocket bolts have red thread locker from the factory? That seems like it could be a problem if those sprockets need to come off again in the future. The red thread locker is tough to break and those bolts are already difficult to remove. Great job. Thanks!
Can anyone reply , on this timing belt video did he say he wants tention on right side and drive side of belt ? Because he said as you can see that there is very little tention on right side isnt that drive side he said has no problem with water pump side being loose
Hey joe I’m doing the job right now and I can’t possibly get the tension on the right side of the belt only the left no matter how many times I try to re do it the slack is always on the right
Excellent video looks like a big job
Nice video..thank you. What if i rolled the cam wheel backwards while putting on cam lock tool?
Great video watching this gave me the courage to take apart a Volvo. One question I had was Does the green gasket for the oil pump come in the kit?
Edit: I did buy this kit from you. Wish I just sourced out what I needed myself could have saved some money. However this was a good videos so I guess buying from you isent my worst decision.
If anyone is wondering this kit does not come with the front seals for the oil pump. Bought a felpro set dirt cheap. It does for some strange reason come with the rear main seal... why I have no idea
We appreciate you ordering from us, you can always email service@fcpeuro.com, we're happy to make it right!
Main seal leak can get oil on the belt.
@@zachm7916 ….the rear main seal is behind the flywheel
@@matteo3893 I meant the front crankshaft seal. Yours could be a rear seal, just throwing it out there if that's maybe the case
GET A NEW LOWER TIMING BELT COVER. These cars are old enough where they will flake apart. The idler pulley SITS ON TOP OF THE PLASTIC! 46:20
Great video.. would this also apply to a 2015 V60 cross country with 5 cylinder 2.5 liter? Also would you have the torque specs on those bolts on water pump and oil pump.
Thanks for the great video! Wonder how would you set the camshaft sprocket position when you've had to replace them with new ones??? Thanks again!
Just finished a timing job on a 2008 C30 T5. I’m off 1 tooth on the exhaust cam sprocket. P0017 set, gonna have to retime the engine again.
Maybe you should look at a video showing how to mark sprocket in 2 places because it's spring loaded and you have to move it back when putting belt on then let it spring to finally mark......I think
@@2cents740 I was able to get it re-timed. It’s been working great for the last 8 months.
Should you run into the issue of not being able to get the cam position sensor bolt removed, you do not need to weld anything to it as mentioned. Just drill it out. Once the head of the bolt is drilled, the shaft can be removed by hand or with a pliers. 5 minutes each. Remove the battery to gain better access to the exhaust bolt.
I'm confused. If the bolt is so tight it strips even with an impact wrench, how would you be able to remove the shaft by hand or with pliers?
If you drill the head off of the bolt, only the shank remains. You slide off the sensor, and the remaining bolt will either hand loosen or use pliers to remove. The bolt head is what was providing the clamping force
Snap 3 t30 the second t30 striped the intake cam bolt. The last one was a impact t30 with a impact gun and it snapped doing those rear cam bolts tried my forth t30 and a impact driver a hammer and I even used a torch with PB blaster and it still didn't come loose not sure who did this before but last resort is definitely welding a nut cause this is stupid for sure
Removing the passenger side upper motor mount lets you drop the engine down enough to easily remove the water pump without hitting the frame rail. Atleast it wasn't an issue at all for me.
Great video...thank you. I do have a question. I have got belt off and timing belt parts on. I am doing cam seals. The cam sprockets moved off mark while putting on cam lock tool on back. Can i just put everything back on marks and put belt on? The crank stayed on mark because i had it wedged with 30m and bar. I have not yet taken sprockets off to put on seals.
I need to correct you about the procedure about the vvt...
The correct way to set up the timing and the vvt's, is to set at dtc the cranckshaft with the special tool, locked the camshafts at the back of the head with the special tool also, as you did.
Install all the pulleys and sprockets, BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE VVT BOLTS LOOSE. Install the timing belt all around, tighten it as spec AND THEN YOU CAN TIGHTEN THE VVT BOLTS.
If you tighten the bolts before installing the belt, you'll be pushing or pulling the belt with the cam sprockets and will be not perfectly aligned and synchronized with the crankshaft.
This same procedure is used other brands and models...
☝️This is correct
What if before removal of the belt you can not put on the locking tool because it is not aligned?
Do i need to loosen both cam bolds so that i can shift the camshaft without turing the sprockets because the belt is still on?? Or how should it be done?
I wanna do mine soon. Have the same engine in the Ford S Max 2.5T
@@stylo8133 if the crank is locked and you cant fit the tool in the cams then obviously the timing is of. So in that case you would have to lock the crank and loosed the sprocket bolts then fit the cam locking tool and retighten the sprocket bolts to 120nm
@@jayfpv2405
Thanks for the fast reply.
@@stylo8133
The theory is that you have to find the tdc, put the crank pin, and then the cams locking tool.
If for some reason you can't get the locking tool, you can loosen the cams bolts and get the cams in position with the locking tool.
Then, let say you want to replace the belt, you have to install it and set the tensioner.
With the crank pin installed, the locking tool installed, the cams sprockets aligned, the belt installed and the tensioner set, then you can adjust the cam bolts.
That's the proper way to do it.
I´m so grate for your explanation. Thank you!
Thank YOU for the kind words Altair
Now that I saw how it's done, I'm not going to do it. Ouch, it is kind of tricky.
If The cam lock tool does not fit on perfectly, you may have to turn the crank another revolution. The slots in the ends of the cams are off center a bit, and the corresponding blades in the tool are as well.
Can you just turn the slots with the tool? I have ran into this problem and saw video of guy turn the slots with a screw driver. I turned mine with tool but still not perfect lined up.
IF YOU FILL YOUR COOLANT AS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO YOU CAN BLOW YOUR ENGINE. The thermostat doesn't allow water through and the engine could be run dry if the air is not bled out. To do it you have to pull the upper radiator hose off and fill into radiator.
Is the cam looking tool really necessary? As i saw on another video there are timing marks all over the engine for the crank shaft pulley and for the cam gears too..the cam gear marks are on the plastic cover that you take off towards the cylinder number 1. So if you aling your cam gears to the mark on the plastic cover and crank shaft to the mark on the block. You are good.
Great video.. thank you 🇹🇷🇹🇷
Happy to be of some help!
So hypothetically speaking if one were to strip the intake cam t30…. The procedure now becomes return the cam seals and just do the belt and water pump?
Had to drill both mine out after stripping both. Drill bit then extractor. It's common ,it seems.
great video, but the Volvo I have has a single VVTI sprocket. I'm having trouble finding the timing marks
Amazing video, do you think it's the same process for a 2014 volvo s60 t5?
You don't really have to mark the sprockets once you have locked the cams in place with the special looking tool. They don't have any grooves to position them in relation to the cams. Once the belt is tensioned correctly just torque them to spec. It's in someway like the BMW/Mini/Peugeot n13/ep6 engine when it comes to the timing sistem reassembly.
Any advice to get the 30mm crank nut off? I'm using a high quality impact driver with no luck. So far have only tried PB blaster and haven't tried heat. Wondering what else I can try to break this thing loose. Thanks in advance!
"The Devil is in the Details", nicely done, If I have this done at the dealership (Sarasota), will they follow the same procedures using the same tools? Thanks for this video.
You're welcome, Daniel!
Wauw perfect instruction.
Thumbs up👍
Video really helped thanks
the kit you sell for this job also seems to come with the rear crank seal. video coming? lol
bro crazy how detailed you are about everything that means nothing.. but the 1 thing you didn't touch on.. a very important thing. the tensioner pulley, how you have to max it out and bring it back into the window from the right side. while keeping tension on the bolt so it wont move? pls say its not important, cause i slowed your video to see if maybe you didn't do it.. wrong.,. you did. funny how you missed that and how you speed it up so it would be missed.. you work for Volvo? this what you call job security.. but hay you got all the details needed about the notch it sits in.. fyi no reply needed, just letting you know how very much your video helped, ish.. have a good one
Is there anything else in the video I should be worried about? Thank you!
I agree I broke two tensioner s
@@anthonyserge2054 hey there can you give me directions on how to put this tentioner on ? I’m stuck I broke two so far I went back and messed with it because you said you want drive side tight but then you said. No you want very little tension on the right side
Can you tell me if there is a rear camshaft seal on both intake and exhaust mine had none my kit came with one, and when you did your belt bump count across the top what did you come up with 18 and what was your count down to the bottom of crank. by the way awesome video got mine running but turns off after a minute or two??????
im changing my timing belt for the first time has done 65k miles. Will there be a markings for the timing belt?
Is the Idle Tensioner Pulley supposed to have about 2-3mm in-out movement? My xr5 turbo with the same engine has started making a bad rattle noise and I've checked everything else and it seems fine besides the in-out movement on the Timing Tensioner
Thanks for video.
Is it possible to have a timing issue if I shredded my alternator belt? as I can’t get my Volvo to fire up after shredding my alternator belt.
I am getting impression that it is much harder to work around S40 (or P1 in general) in comparison with P2. Specifically I looked at timing belt job and PCV fix on 2001-2009 S60 and looks like it is somewhat less complicated. Am I right?
Ok I'm curious. If your just replacing the water pump do you need to hold everything in position as in the video?
Curious what Should this Cost to do by a reputable Dealership...I live in NYC..would love you to do this Exactly for my 2008 Volvo C30 Turbo 2.5 P1..are you available this spring
Curious to know, how long in total did this job take?
I have a question, do you let it be purged only by the expansion vessel?
Do I need that cam holder or can I just position the cam back if it moves
Hello, I would like you to help me with some information: the oil meter rod of my car (Volvo V40 2002) is made of plastic and it broke in half, leaving one half inside. I would like to know if it ends up in the crankcase? Is it advisable to move the car like this? If it can cause serious damage? Your guidance would be of great help to me, please 😢
Hello, great video and good job. Is it possible to insert subtitles? English and Polish, thank you.
Hey, Nate, great Video!! My son brought a replacement motor for his XR5 turbo and I have noticed that the timing marks don't line up! The intake side lines up to the mark and the exhaust side is at about 3 o'clock position: Question what should I check before replacing the timing belts and seals!
Thank you
I would suggest removing the valve cover and make certain that the cams lobes (all of them) are in the relative same location to each other from one engine to the other.
if they are with in 10-20 degrees off the ideal location you shouldn't have an issue - the engine just wont run great. If they are 180 degree out it'll make contact.
@@fcpeuro thanks I check that first 👍
If you use the cam locking tool, you cannot get the timing off. I realize that it is one extra step and a couple of cheap seals, but it's fool proof to use the locking tools to keep timing.
My 30mm pulley bolt were seized and wont come out using impact gun, if i want to use breaker bar, how do i hold it to make it not spinning ?
Thank you so much!
More than welcome zz wang.
You the best