I really liked the "battlefield bone" canister damascus that Big Dog Forge made a while back using welding rods. Maybe not as elaborate and intricate as mosaic damascus, but I think it looks really cool!
I love stainless san mai! I have bought and used billets from other people, but never forged my own. I have had a hard time finding 416 to use. Where are you getting yours? Also do you use a higher heat for forge welding than you would on high carbon steels? Thanks
@@spaknives I get my 416 from Jantz Supply. It’s pretty much the same forge welding heat as carbon. Best to weld the seams completely though. Good luck!
This is a San mai construction which is a bad idea to forge. It thins out the core steel and it’s always better to do stock removal once the billet is welded. If you want to see a fully forged blade, checkout the kukri build. 👍
Hey 👋 there Tyrell how are you my friend is good to me the way the knife 🔪 looks. It's amazing how it looks I am in love with it nice job buddy blessings 🙌 🙏
Gorgeous piece of san mai bud, having watched the vid im thinking the pitting is maybe carbon migration coming through the stainless which is what the ferric is working on. All the same the outcome is so nice. Ive got to get me a damn tig welder now for sure. Cheers.
Thanks Loz! I think I was just leaving it in the ferric far too long. When I did just a few rounds at 30 secs a piece, The tig is awesome. It’s great for mosaic Damascus so I wouldn’t be adding filler metal. Thanks for watching!
I thought I found you from the kitchen knife challenge, but it turns out I have a few of your videos in my Watch Later. Really great knives, I'd love to get a template for the blade in this video. Is there a way that could happen?
I'm glad you found the channel! If you want some of the knife designs, just email tyrellknifeworks at gmail and tell me which designs (or which video its from) and I'll send you the PDF of the design. Thanks for watching!
Amazing knife, the san-mai and the handle are stunning. Btw. Wear those gloves when working with the epoxy and not when the knife is finished. It keeps your surfaces greas free and most important it’s better for your health. Epoxy can permeate our skin. How do I know? I did not take care working with epoxy in my younger years. Now when I get epoxy on my hands the joints of my fingers start to hurt. That can be up to 1 or 2 days.
Ive never needed to coffee etch for 12hrs in my life. Usually i can get a mono steel black black in a matter of 5-10 minutes with a coffee etch. For my san mai and damascus blades ill go into ferric for 15-30 seconds, sand off with 1500 grit and repeat 3-5 times. Once im happy with it, i go into coffee. I mix 1 jar of coffee for every 1L of water. I boil water pour in the instant coffee and while the water is still relatively hot, ill put the blade in. It etches far better and far quicker if the water is still hot. Been debating making a video on my process cause ive never had the need for a ridiculous amount of time. Literally only takes a few minutes.
This video was 3 years ago... back then I tried to reuse coffee. Now I mix it fresh each time and use it very hot and it the coffee etch takes about an hour to get it really nice and black. Thanks for watching.
Hay algo que no me cuadra, como hizo para perforarlo despues del tratamiento termico??? A lo mejor lo hizo con carburo de tungsteno, pero lo mas imprtante... si lo perforo y despues lo calienta con el soplete, Para que lo hace??🙄👍
Se perforó completamente antes del tratamiento térmico. El calentamiento de la antorcha fue para corregir una deformación. La hoja se envolvió primero con un trapo húmedo para que no afectara el temperamento. Gracias por ver.
That’s called a San mai. They can be very striking. It’s basically what this build is but my outer layers are stainless steel. (Stainless San mai is not advisable until you have a bit more experience). Thanks for watching!
I'm lightly confused. I was under the impression that stainless does not weld to high carbon. I've seen you use stainless cannisters for that reason. How did you make it forge weld?
Después del cloruro férrico, simplemente se enjuaga con agua y limpiador de ventanas para detener el ácido y luego se trata con aceite mineral. Gracias por ver.
This video was done quite a while ago and I've since mastered the stainless etching. You really only need about 30-45 seconds, unlike when you're etching damascus which requires 5-10 minutes per soak. Thanks for watching, Thomas!
All my knife templates are available free to my Patreon members or they can be purchased on my website. Links to both in every video description. Thanks for watching.
In Slovenia I made a stainless San mai japanese marking knife. We called the stainless stuff " inox " after etching in ferric, the stainless or inox showed layering... It was a piece of flat stock. Have you ever heard of something like that before? Nice work again man Edit Oh my holy Jesus that is sharp. Holy crap
I noted you said that you had problems drilling the stainless... I learned a trick from a boat builder a while back; use cold water for cutting fluid... Works like a dream...
The stainless wasn't the issue. The 1095 was too hard. I am doing another one of these for this sunday's build and I had the same issue. I had to anneal the blade fully before I could file the false edge. I don't know what it happens with these stainless san mai builds, if its just 1095 you don't get that much of a problem. 🤷♂️ Thanks for watching, Kevin!
That came out great!!! I did another stainless blade and hoping to get a migration pattern like that. I used 304 again but I ordered some 416 to try.🔥⚒💪🏻
Hey Tyrell -- would HRC be primarily determined by the 1080 core since that's what is at the center/where the edge is? (60-65 give or take) Also, with something stainless clad -- is the carbon steel edge/core still vulnerable to corrosion?
Yes, the HRC would be steel core since the cladding doesn't harden. It should be around 60 give or take after tempering. The core is still vulnerable to corrosion. Thanks for watching.
Good job and I really LOVE that migration line between the SS and 1080. I've used .005" nickel for a nice line also. What do you think of 410SS vs 416SS for cladding?
I've never used 410. I've used 304 and 416... definitely recommend 416 over 304. I'm working on another Stainless san mai blade right now. It'll be next Sunday's build. 👍🏻
Bro you’re better than I am very beautiful work as usual but will you please get a good glue like G flex especially considering it’s the same price as the JB Weld man
@@TyrellKnifeworks Bro you are massively skilled and you’re san-mai videos Are some of the best on UA-cam you really simplify it bro and you get great results
Thanks! After the kukri build (starts tomorrow) I’ll be doing a triple build of three knives simultaneously. One is stainless San mai and the second is another cu mai (third is mono stainless). Should be some cool builds! 😉
Hey Tyrell! I just forged a gomai knife with all carbon steel. when I started grinding a tiny delamination became apparent, about a 1/2 inch of where the steels meet on one side. Do you know if this is basically just a cosmetic issue at this point? I forged it with a hammer so I guess I missed a spot! Or maybe I ground it too hot? I appreciate your videos!
Without seeing it, I can't tell if it would be structural or not. Delams like that tend to be cosmetic. Likely it's from a slightly failed or incomplete forge weld, I doubt its from grinding too hot. Once its forge welded, grinding should do anything. Thanks for watching, I'm glad the videos are helpful!
Damn Tyrrell, that's a masterful example of the San Mai technique. I'm only 5 minutes in, but it's awesome so far. I'm sure I'll comment again at the end.
Wow! That bottle cut was something else! What do you polish the handle with? do you cover it with something or is it some oil? or just plain sanding-polishing? I want to learn how to make the wood as shiny as you have it.
Most of the handle material I use is stabilized with resin, so just sanding to 1000 grit and then buffing makes it pretty shiny. Then the addition of some wax and another light buffing does the trick! Thanks for watching!
Damascus + stainless sanmai. I’m working on one now. But it’s such a pain to grind. I use 304 stainless and it isn’t liking to be ground. But it seems to do good in the acid
A lâmina é gravada rapidamente em ácido de cloreto férrico. O aço inoxidável fica um pouco cinza, mas o alto carbono fica preto. Então você grava em café bem forte. Obrigado por assistir, Emanuala!
My only concern is if the steel got to the right temperature in between those plates when you tempered. The heat transfer could of messed with it maybe?
It's all good, I can't get worked up over a few thumbs down. Thanks for checking it out and watching! I love stainless san mai and will definitely do more in the future.
That knife looks really great, and I would love to see mokume game in one of your knifes - Stainless San Mai blade, with mokume gane guard and elder blur box on a handle! btw: This idea to make a guide from angle bar on belt grinder is awesome :)! Sorry Man, but I'm stealing it :)!
That looks awesome. I was wondering about anyone who has used a stainless/high carbon san mia, is there a problem with galvanic corrosion? That would make the carbon steel rust at a higher rate due to the galvanic effect of the stainless. Has anyone had any experience with this? I know this happens in piping systems, but wondered if the same effect happened with kives.
@@TyrellKnifeworks clearly I was having a phone moment.. what I meant to say was... Great work.... another win....very cool indeed. Looking forward to the next installment.
Beautiful work. Just watched another stainless San mai from Green Beetle recently. My question is: do you base the heat treat on just the 1084 core? Obviously that wouldn’t be optimal for the stainless....are you accepting that the jacket is soft? I know typically San mai is a hard core with a soft jacket....in this case, is it just soft because you only use conditions that will harden the core (as both are theoretically hardenable)?
What kinda of tig machine are you using? I'm looking into getting into it myself and was thinking about getting a multi processing welder with stick,mig,& tig. I noticed you have a titanium in your shop, that's what I have also for my mig machine.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for making it. You pretty much made what I have been working towards. Stainless sanmai is the way to go. I have made a couple out of old boat drive shafts with 80crv2 cores. Just need to get back at it and finish then off. That grinder sure takes alot of time but I know in the end it is worth it
@@TyrellKnifeworks The reason I like San-Mai so much is there’s not a lot of foreign faux San-Mai to ruin its uniqueness or appeal. Low layer Damascus has a cheap look to it in my opinion now because of Indian and Pakistani sellers flooding the market with knives made from an un-hardened mix of mild steels. Mosaic Damascus - thankfully - has been untouched by this and retains its allure because of it’s technical difficulty.
Yup, I can’t agree more. I don’t do much low layer Damascus unless there’s a good reason. I like the 200-400 layer range, unless it’s a mosaic. It’s a shame there’s so much crapmascus around these days. Thanks for watching!
What do you think about stainless san mai? Any other damascus patterns you'd like to see on the channel?
I really liked the "battlefield bone" canister damascus that Big Dog Forge made a while back using welding rods. Maybe not as elaborate and intricate as mosaic damascus, but I think it looks really cool!
I’ll have to check that out! Thanks for watching!
I love stainless san mai! I have bought and used billets from other people, but never forged my own. I have had a hard time finding 416 to use. Where are you getting yours? Also do you use a higher heat for forge welding than you would on high carbon steels? Thanks
@@spaknives I get my 416 from Jantz Supply. It’s pretty much the same forge welding heat as carbon. Best to weld the seams completely though. Good luck!
I'm partial to the combination stacked checkerboard/ladder utilizing 1080 and 52100. Time consuming build, but end results beautiful!
You're an artist and a half my man, you deserve more subs; keep up the killer work!
Thanks so much! It’s going well for only 10 months. 😉
Most people like videos without talking...
Adding copper with the Stainless into the blade will it work?
Yes, it would work but you wouldn’t get the cool “ghost” pattern in the steel. Thanks for watching, James.
@Tyrell Knifeworks thanks for the quick reply
Can you forge into a blade after the billet is forge welded? Ever video I see is stock removal.
This is a San mai construction which is a bad idea to forge. It thins out the core steel and it’s always better to do stock removal once the billet is welded. If you want to see a fully forged blade, checkout the kukri build. 👍
I’m gonna try this but I know I won’t do this good
You never know until you try! My build next week will be another stainless San mai, so check that out! Thanks for watching!
Tyrell Knifeworks ok definitely will
If u don't want the knife I'll take it lol I wish if I could only afford it lol
Sorry, this one was sold long ago. Thanks for watching.
Hey 👋 there Tyrell how are you my friend is good to me the way the knife 🔪 looks. It's amazing how it looks I am in love with it nice job buddy blessings 🙌 🙏
Thanks for taking a look, Guillermo. I have another in this technique coming soon.
Are you too good for the reality show “forged in fire” ? I’d like to see you beat these guys like a drum!
I’ve applied to be on the show, just waiting for them to call me! 👍
Gorgeous piece of san mai bud, having watched the vid im thinking the pitting is maybe carbon migration coming through the stainless which is what the ferric is working on. All the same the outcome is so nice. Ive got to get me a damn tig welder now for sure. Cheers.
Thanks Loz! I think I was just leaving it in the ferric far too long. When I did just a few rounds at 30 secs a piece, The tig is awesome. It’s great for mosaic Damascus so I wouldn’t be adding filler metal. Thanks for watching!
I thought I found you from the kitchen knife challenge, but it turns out I have a few of your videos in my Watch Later. Really great knives, I'd love to get a template for the blade in this video. Is there a way that could happen?
I'm glad you found the channel! If you want some of the knife designs, just email tyrellknifeworks at gmail and tell me which designs (or which video its from) and I'll send you the PDF of the design. Thanks for watching!
And that, folks, is how you get my subscription!
Fantastic job mate, really nice work
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Amazing knife, the san-mai and the handle are stunning.
Btw. Wear those gloves when working with the epoxy and not when the knife is finished. It keeps your surfaces greas free and most important it’s better for your health. Epoxy can permeate our skin. How do I know? I did not take care working with epoxy in my younger years. Now when I get epoxy on my hands the joints of my fingers start to hurt. That can be up to 1 or 2 days.
Thanks! I do usually wear gloves but forgot this time. Thanks for the info!
Ive never needed to coffee etch for 12hrs in my life. Usually i can get a mono steel black black in a matter of 5-10 minutes with a coffee etch. For my san mai and damascus blades ill go into ferric for 15-30 seconds, sand off with 1500 grit and repeat 3-5 times. Once im happy with it, i go into coffee. I mix 1 jar of coffee for every 1L of water. I boil water pour in the instant coffee and while the water is still relatively hot, ill put the blade in. It etches far better and far quicker if the water is still hot. Been debating making a video on my process cause ive never had the need for a ridiculous amount of time. Literally only takes a few minutes.
This video was 3 years ago... back then I tried to reuse coffee. Now I mix it fresh each time and use it very hot and it the coffee etch takes about an hour to get it really nice and black. Thanks for watching.
Groovy build!
Thanks for watching!
Hay algo que no me cuadra, como hizo para perforarlo despues del tratamiento termico??? A lo mejor lo hizo con carburo de tungsteno, pero lo mas imprtante... si lo perforo y despues lo calienta con el soplete, Para que lo hace??🙄👍
Se perforó completamente antes del tratamiento térmico. El calentamiento de la antorcha fue para corregir una deformación. La hoja se envolvió primero con un trapo húmedo para que no afectara el temperamento. Gracias por ver.
nooby question, for first damascus billet of just 2 layers of 1080 and 1 layer 15n20 or vice versa. Would it be worth it or just come out bland
That’s called a San mai. They can be very striking. It’s basically what this build is but my outer layers are stainless steel. (Stainless San mai is not advisable until you have a bit more experience). Thanks for watching!
I'm lightly confused. I was under the impression that stainless does not weld to high carbon. I've seen you use stainless cannisters for that reason. How did you make it forge weld?
With a zero oxygen environment you can forge weld stainless to high carbon. 416 stainless works the best. Thanks for watching.
Hola, después del precloruro ferrico, le hiciste el tratamiento con fosfato de manganeso?
Después del cloruro férrico, simplemente se enjuaga con agua y limpiador de ventanas para detener el ácido y luego se trata con aceite mineral. Gracias por ver.
Handle looks very comfortable.. great job on the San mai too!
Thanks!
You should use mosaic pins on your handles, it's ashame yu didn't put mosaic pins on this one, it would take it to the next level of "WOW" !!!
I use mosaic pins on occasion, but not all the time. Check this Sunday’s build! 👍 Thanks for watching
Have you tried hot vinegar for the etch it may be less aggressive on the SS. I haven't tried it myself .
This video was done quite a while ago and I've since mastered the stainless etching. You really only need about 30-45 seconds, unlike when you're etching damascus which requires 5-10 minutes per soak. Thanks for watching, Thomas!
Had to comment on that. I welded for years and my favorite was tig
Tig certainly takes practice... I'm still a novice.. Thanks for watching, Gino.
Very nice knife l have learned a lot from your videos 100k
I’m glad the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching!
Can you made videos without talking?
Sorry, my audience likes the instruction in my videos. Thanks for watching.
Could you please share the template with nice workmanship?
All my knife templates are available free to my Patreon members or they can be purchased on my website. Links to both in every video description. Thanks for watching.
Yes
awesome knife i love san mai and that red handle
Thanks for watching the videos in the library, Vladimir!
beauty, but man that Cu Mai....Im in love
Id love a Cu Mai with copper guard and a finger guard, like the WolfTooth Fighter..
Thanks for watching. The Wolftooth and the cu mai are for sale, check out my Etsy. 😉
That’s a sweet looking piece
Thanks for taking a look! This was my first stainless san mai and it turned out well.
In Slovenia I made a stainless San mai japanese marking knife. We called the stainless stuff " inox " after etching in ferric, the stainless or inox showed layering... It was a piece of flat stock. Have you ever heard of something like that before? Nice work again man
Edit
Oh my holy Jesus that is sharp. Holy crap
What you are describing sounds exactly what this construction is. Thanks for watching.
I noted you said that you had problems drilling the stainless... I learned a trick from a boat builder a while back; use cold water for cutting fluid... Works like a dream...
The stainless wasn't the issue. The 1095 was too hard. I am doing another one of these for this sunday's build and I had the same issue. I had to anneal the blade fully before I could file the false edge. I don't know what it happens with these stainless san mai builds, if its just 1095 you don't get that much of a problem. 🤷♂️ Thanks for watching, Kevin!
That came out great!!! I did another stainless blade and hoping to get a migration pattern like that. I used 304 again but I ordered some 416 to try.🔥⚒💪🏻
Can’t wait to see it! Thanks for watching!
Hey Tyrell -- would HRC be primarily determined by the 1080 core since that's what is at the center/where the edge is? (60-65 give or take)
Also, with something stainless clad -- is the carbon steel edge/core still vulnerable to corrosion?
Yes, the HRC would be steel core since the cladding doesn't harden. It should be around 60 give or take after tempering. The core is still vulnerable to corrosion. Thanks for watching.
Good job and I really LOVE that migration line between the SS and 1080. I've used .005" nickel for a nice line also. What do you think of 410SS vs 416SS for cladding?
I've never used 410. I've used 304 and 416... definitely recommend 416 over 304. I'm working on another Stainless san mai blade right now. It'll be next Sunday's build. 👍🏻
I think the pitting looks awesome
Meh, I sanded it out and re-etched, I think it looked better that way. Thanks though
My favourite knife maker Tyrell knifeworks,I really like your work,I watch all your videos
Thanks for watching the channel,
Mizo!
Bro you’re better than I am very beautiful work as usual but will you please get a good glue like G flex especially considering it’s the same price as the JB Weld man
I know people are all crazy over g flex but I’ve never had an issue with the JB weld. When I need new stuff maybe I’ll try the g flex.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Bro you are massively skilled and you’re san-mai videos Are some of the best on UA-cam you really simplify it bro and you get great results
Thanks! After the kukri build (starts tomorrow) I’ll be doing a triple build of three knives simultaneously. One is stainless San mai and the second is another cu mai (third is mono stainless). Should be some cool builds! 😉
@@TyrellKnifeworks I can’t wait! I’m a fan of yours now!
Thanks for following along! 👍
Hey Tyrell! I just forged a gomai knife with all carbon steel. when I started grinding a tiny delamination became apparent, about a 1/2 inch of where the steels meet on one side. Do you know if this is basically just a cosmetic issue at this point? I forged it with a hammer so I guess I missed a spot! Or maybe I ground it too hot?
I appreciate your videos!
Without seeing it, I can't tell if it would be structural or not. Delams like that tend to be cosmetic. Likely it's from a slightly failed or incomplete forge weld, I doubt its from grinding too hot. Once its forge welded, grinding should do anything. Thanks for watching, I'm glad the videos are helpful!
The carpenter square trick just changed my life. Thank you Denis! I cant believe I never thought of that
I was too lazy to create a bevel jig do that worked in a pinch. 😜. Thanks for watching, Brigham!
Damn Tyrrell, that's a masterful example of the San Mai technique. I'm only 5 minutes in, but it's awesome so far. I'm sure I'll comment again at the end.
This is one of my favorite techniques. It comes out so pronounced and looks very good I think.
Wow! That bottle cut was something else!
What do you polish the handle with? do you cover it with something or is it some oil? or just plain sanding-polishing? I want to learn how to make the wood as shiny as you have it.
Most of the handle material I use is stabilized with resin, so just sanding to 1000 grit and then buffing makes it pretty shiny. Then the addition of some wax and another light buffing does the trick! Thanks for watching!
Damascus + stainless sanmai. I’m working on one now. But it’s such a pain to grind. I use 304 stainless and it isn’t liking to be ground. But it seems to do good in the acid
I’ve tried 304 before but I think the 416 turns out better. I hope it works well for you!
Como você revela o San mai
A lâmina é gravada rapidamente em ácido de cloreto férrico. O aço inoxidável fica um pouco cinza, mas o alto carbono fica preto. Então você grava em café bem forte. Obrigado por assistir, Emanuala!
Parabéns linda de mais
Obrigado por dar uma olhada!
Very nice! Did you use the stainless steel to challenge yourself? It seems like it would be such a pain to work with.
Stainless gives an amazing pattern when you put high carbon in the core. That’s what gives you the super dark edge and silver sides.
I think I like the stainless San mai more than most Damascus patterns. I’m really going to have to learn to make some.
This can be a tough one. It wants to split on the seam/spine a lot. Just keep at it. Thanks for watching.
Awesome knife!!
Thanks for watching, Brett!
My only concern is if the steel got to the right temperature in between those plates when you tempered. The heat transfer could of messed with it maybe?
I temper with those plates all the time, as do others. It works just fine. 👍 Thanks for watching.
The 5 thumbs down come from the 5 that tried to do this with stainless but failed.lol.. Very nicely done mate.
It's all good, I can't get worked up over a few thumbs down. Thanks for checking it out and watching! I love stainless san mai and will definitely do more in the future.
just a dream to have such a beautiful knife what power is the son of a peasant labor
Thanks for watching!
nice edge
Thanks for taking a look
ممتاز
Thanks for watching!
Sweet knife
Thanks!
WOW nice !
Thanks! Still one of my favorites!
That knife looks really great, and I would love to see mokume game in one of your knifes - Stainless San Mai blade, with mokume gane guard and elder blur box on a handle!
btw: This idea to make a guide from angle bar on belt grinder is awesome :)! Sorry Man, but I'm stealing it :)!
Glad you liked it! Mokume gane is a project coming up!
@@TyrellKnifeworks seriously? That's cool!!!
Yup, I have a couple videos in the can first but then that’s next. Probably in a month.
Very nice
Thanks for watching!
Nice!
Thanks for taking a look!
Top
Thanks for watching!
That looks awesome. I was wondering about anyone who has used a stainless/high carbon san mia, is there a problem with galvanic corrosion? That would make the carbon steel rust at a higher rate due to the galvanic effect of the stainless. Has anyone had any experience with this? I know this happens in piping systems, but wondered if the same effect happened with kives.
I’ve done stainless San mai once before and never noticed any more corrosion. Quite the opposite in fact. Thanks for watching!
I think that primarily happens when you clad it in pure chromium through PVD. I think the diffusion bonding helps prevent creation of a galvanic cell.
Another fine piece. Master craftsman!
Thanks for watching, John!
damn,,that's sharp,,,looks great
Still one of my favorite blades! Thanks for watching!
Great work... About her win. Very cool indeed 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks clearly I was having a phone moment.. what I meant to say was... Great work.... another win....very cool indeed. Looking forward to the next installment.
Lol! I figured it out. 😜
Awesome job i would love one of your copper ones
Thanks for checking this one out, Shaun. I appreciate you watching.
As usual, very nice blade...
Thanks Dale! I'm sure there'll be more stainless san mai in the future!
Beautiful work. Just watched another stainless San mai from Green Beetle recently. My question is: do you base the heat treat on just the 1084 core? Obviously that wouldn’t be optimal for the stainless....are you accepting that the jacket is soft? I know typically San mai is a hard core with a soft jacket....in this case, is it just soft because you only use conditions that will harden the core (as both are theoretically hardenable)?
Sometimes it’s best to do an edge quench but I quenched the whole thing because I only have a vertical tank now. Thanks for watching.
I should also have mentioned that 416 stainless is not hardenable.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ah good to know! Gorgeous blade. Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much!
What kinda of tig machine are you using? I'm looking into getting into it myself and was thinking about getting a multi processing welder with stick,mig,& tig. I noticed you have a titanium in your shop, that's what I have also for my mig machine.
It’s the titanium pro 200. It only does lift tig though, you can’t use a foot pedal with it. It’s good for what I need. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks ok cool! Thanks for the reply. I love how this knife turned out btw the dark line of the 1080 is so cool looking!
@@dylanbennett3851 thanks! Stainless San mai is one of my favorites. You’ll see another one soon!
@@TyrellKnifeworks can't wait to see how it turns out!
Again, fantastic piece sir!
Thank you kindly!
A piece of art for sure. Beautiful
Thanks for checking it out, Michelle!
🗡️OUCH?😳
Thanks for checking out the build!
@@TyrellKnifeworks 😉
Nice job bro.
Thanks! Glad you’re joining us on the channel! 👍
Nailed it! That one is super smooth!!
Thanks for watching the build, Bill!
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for making it. You pretty much made what I have been working towards. Stainless sanmai is the way to go. I have made a couple out of old boat drive shafts with 80crv2 cores. Just need to get back at it and finish then off.
That grinder sure takes alot of time but I know in the end it is worth it
Very nice Tyrell
Thanks!
Beauty 👌
Thanks, I like how this one turned out. Stainless San mai is one of my favorites. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks The reason I like San-Mai so much is there’s not a lot of foreign faux San-Mai to ruin its uniqueness or appeal.
Low layer Damascus has a cheap look to it in my opinion now because of Indian and Pakistani sellers flooding the market with knives made from an un-hardened mix of mild steels.
Mosaic Damascus - thankfully - has been untouched by this and retains its allure because of it’s technical difficulty.
Yup, I can’t agree more. I don’t do much low layer Damascus unless there’s a good reason. I like the 200-400 layer range, unless it’s a mosaic. It’s a shame there’s so much crapmascus around these days. Thanks for watching!
Gorgeous
The sheath for this one is still my favorite.
Could you please link me the video for the sheath, I can't seem to find the right one.
@@stevenobrien6406 there’s no video of it, sorry. N