Stefan, I really enjoy all of your videos but this episode was particularly satisfying to me, for some reason. BTW, I'm a retired tool and die maker and I still love the craft. I had to retire early (at age 68) due to a low back injury that still bothers me so now I get my "precision machining fix" from you, Clickspring and a few others. Thanks so much for what you do! TreeTop
Hi Stefan. I must say that I enjoy your OCD with never leaving equipment bought the way it is, but tearing it apart and making it better. I learn from every video you make. Thanks for the videos.
Your dysfunction certainly makes for some interesting and educational videos! Here's hoping you don't recover any time too soon! Super interesting locking method for the adjustment ring.
I hope the person that ends up with a "GTWR" rotary table, or old rf45 mill knows how much work has gone into these machines/tools. There WAY above the standard. These old vids are great, all this info could be used on any rotary table. Amazing work👍👌🇦🇺
Hi Stefan, Your comment about the quenching oil is interesting. Canola oil is one of the best home shop heat treat oils available. It's cheap, has a relatively high flashpoint (compared to other inexpensive oils) and can be considered a "fast" oil in terms of reaching the pearlite nose in sufficient time for hardening. Just a comment from a blacksmith who has done alot of heat treating ;)
That was a stupendous project Stefan, thanks for sharing all the detail with us. That table deserves all the praise it receives. What a series of steps.
I really enjoy your videos. I just happened on your utube vids a few months ago and as time permits am catching up, or trying to catch up. No small task watching your many videos. I too find myself reworking new items to what I think is better than as shipped. I'm not as meticulous as you but watching your videos is getting me more precise! Thanks so much for your time and sharing! Great video work and narration also help in enjoying the craftsmanship! 👍😎
My mentor taught me a cool technique to reduce scale buildup when you harden parts. Wrap the part you want to harden in paper, then make a pouch of .003 stainless sheet. Seal it well with crimps around the edges and then put it in the oven. The paper burns up the oxygen in the pouch and the pouch prevents new oxygen from entering. When you take it out you cut the pouch open and dump the part into the oil.
We just put a fair amount of barbeque-coal into the oven whit the piece we harden. We harden at ~825°C and temper at ~350°C when we make pieces in Böhler K460 or Uddeholm UHB Arne. We usually aim for the spot on the charts where change in measurments are small, that is also where (if I have got it right) the mix of hardness and tensile strength (resistance to cracking) is best. BTW: It should be mandatory to ALWAYS tell/have a AISI/SAE-number for the steels so that they would be compareble. Now it's sometimes impossible to compare materials. We use Böhler, Uddeholm, SSAB, Sten, Meusburger and Hasco at work. When someone has made a part in a material not suitable and we shall make a new, we have to do a lot of detective-work to find the best sort that we can get our hands on...
I would have loved to sleeved the shaft on my 6" table, but what I did is wrapped and couple of feeler gauges inside as I fed the table shaft back into the hole of the main body and that complete took out the play. I found that the table shaft would jam up half way in with a .003" feeler gauge. So actually .0025 (two and a half thousandths) fit inside perfectly and now has only a 1/3 of a thousandth(0.0003) of play theoretically and now operates phenomenally!!!
What an awesome "dysfunction". I wish more people displayed those symptoms. Awesome workmanship from a very talented guy. Thanks for this video - I enjoyed it and learned a lot.
There's nothing dysfunctional about improving machines and tooling. Most hobbiest items for machining are built to a price point. With some being pretty much "kits". Nice work as always.
Great trick with the ball bearing lock, I did the same to lock the graduated collar on the handwheel I made for the Rivett because I wanted the locking screw in the front of the handwheel rather than sticking out from the collar. Was very cool to see some hard turning, and those inserts you use sound very interesting. Well done, as always! :)
I loved seeing sparks fly (17:00). I don't often see sparks when turning on a lathe; so it was *definitely* worth the price of admission, and then some.
Great stuff Stephan! I think you need to come up with a trick logo/stamp for all rebuilds..... "Approved by STGW" (lol) Keep up the great videos! Cheers, Doug
Aerospace tip: mark the face of the shaft and nut with a paint marker. If you ever notice a change in end play, you can visually verify that the nut has not moved.
Excellent video! Really helpful for many other machining projects. And some viewers who have different thinking about some solutions (like using loctite for the bushing) please start also a U-tube channel, and show us the way you prefer, so we have even more options!
Stephan, you probably do not need the 4mm steel ball, just taper the rear of the bronze plug. Also I would use brass plug, as it would moosh into the threads a little. Great video! Love it!
Thanks for showing how to improve such items by investing effort. I assume only hobbyists invest such an amount of time and effort in that segment, but the results are surely worth it. When you said you are about to lap, i prepared to see the style of lapping process as seen from Tom Lipton / oxtoolco. Of course i am clueless about lapping in general, but then you showed THAT. Great. The nut locking mechanism looks nice for the purpose. Any plans for improvement of the locking of the table itself?
ha ha some sort of dysfunction, first on hard turning in the home shop, surplus score on those cbn bits they found a good home. love your videos you have a lot to share your projects and skills are very interesting I gotta get one of those little ovens been thinking about an inductive heater do you use anti scaling compounds ever that surface ended up pretty hard whithout it good job
Thanks Stefan for a very nice video. I found it very interesting and informative. Your explanations of the various operations were very enjoyable and clear. Thanks again.
Abom torque on anything but a beefy Greenfield tap wrench seems like a bad idea. Very interesting video; those CBN inserts are very cool to see in action.
Exemplary work Stefan. I suffer from a derivative of the same condition, luckily I feel its a nice condition to "suffer" in the end. I really need a furnace of some sort, I've had reasonably good luck hardening/tempering with a torch, but my condition won't allow me to continue with what amounts to barely educated guess-work. Can't wait for part 3!
The lapping marks are caused by excessive heat. Too much pressure, too much speed, or both. It usually starts out great but after a little heat builds in the slurry it's a matter of seconds until it starts to seize up.
This has been a helpful series for me. I have a 4" Chinese rotary table that was manufactured to a much lower standard of quality than yours...the MT1 bore has about .050" runout. I've never quite had the confidence to tackle the job, but I think I'm ready to give it a shot now. BTW, George H. Thomas would approve of your 90 degree setscrew. ;)
Here is a question for heat treating experts. In the quench, water or oil, does the direction (orientation) of the part being dropped into the quench bucket affect the final geometry? When in shop class, I quenched bearing driver punches, I found if you did not immerse them at right angles to the water bucket they would warp towards the cold side which would show up on finish turning. It took a little longer to plunge them in exactly straight up and down but the results were better. I suspect this hard bushing was warped cold side high. The side that hit the vegetable oil shrinks first and could warp the other side still red in the milliseconds before it reaches the oil. I wonder if dropping the bushing down a loose mandrel set in the oil would allow a more uniform diameter shrink.
I own a 8" and 12" Vertex rotary table. Both are extremely good quality. This manufacture in Taiwan does not make cheep junk. Tearing the nameplate from this was a disappointment. Name brand is nothing anymore. I purchased two Fowler micrometers last year, both were junk quality. The thimbles were out of round and rubbed, they were made in China, but Fowler should have had their QC in place. China can produce extremely good quality, if your willing to pay for it. We buy low cost imports, and they produce "just good enough" in most cased for our markets. Your buying high end import quality from Vertex. I do like your videos, I always pick up some new technique.
The nameplate was not from Vertex, only the reseller. I made a new nameplate giving Vertex the credit they deserve. Totaly agree on "you get what you pay for", you can get precision tooling from china without a problem, if you are willing to invest.
I was shocked...to say the least! I couldn't believe he didn't make a special purpose-built cihsel to cut the rivets off, LOL! Everyone has to get a little hackory in now a then ;)
For me heat treating is scarey stuff but you seem to do well,probably because of your higher education.I'm reminded of the big screw-up at Springfield Armory years back where1903 springfield rifles.(Mauser copies) recievers were improperly heat chreated by color,then Quenched .Several people were hurt(soldiers) by burst brittle actions.Thanks for your hard work as always
Right - I would not do heat treating on a critical, load bearing part myself, thats something to send out to get it properly done. But for something like bushings, keys or small tool-parts I think I have it pretty good under control :D
I have a 8” I’m going to do the same. You did a great job. Thanks for showing me how. I have indexing plates for a 6”. Do you think I can Modify them for the 8 inch?
Hmmmf, I sort of thought my older Vertex with the angular contact bearing was superior and they'd cheapened the design by omitting it. I can now see what you meant about which could be the better system in your last video Stefan. I may have to rethink that bearing in mine. Nicely done rebuild for sure. Have you checked the runout of the MT 2 bore in the table yet or did you just zero that first before recutting the outside of the tables spindle?
Stefan, I love your work and learn a lot. About the marks on your lap (probably someone else mentioned it (but I'm not in the mood to read 182 reactions at this moment); I think your lap is too narrow and grabs on the outside when you move it by hand. In Dutch it's called "schranken" and maybe in German too (it's sounds already like German for me :-)) It's a phenomena which you get most of the time when you don't want it and is sometime's hard to achieve when you want it (Murphy in the House!). I learned the hard way a long time ago and digged in deeper so I could get it it when I wanted it and bypass it when not. If you're interested I can send you a A4 which tell's you all you want to know. Key is the length of your lever (the allen key) and the width of your lapping tool and the friction involved in the process. If you want to play it safe choose your friction coefficient "1" or maximal. and the broaden your sleeve accordingly or shorten your allen key the same. It probably sounds like a mad man talking at the moment, which I can understand, but the theory is here and retrievable. Let me know if you're interested. Keep up the good work, be safe, and with best regards from Delft, Holland, Job
And, looking further, I love your solution for locking down the adjustment ring from the back. I think we share the same passion about elegant mechanical solutions. Best, Job
Just curious but shouldn't you have roughed up the mirror-like inner surface of the sleeve and the outside of the spigot to give the Loctite a better surface to bind to? I'm not familiar with Loctite 648, maybe it doesn't require it. Great video!
Neat little heat treat oven. Is that a bought item or something you built? I could sure use a little oven like that. Can you provide some details on it?
Hey MDShunk. I've got one of those - it's just a hobby enamelling kiln - pretty cheap secondhand on ebay and get yourself a cheap pyrometer. These kilns are fine up to 1000 or 1100 celcius .
When I turn to a tight tolerance I just hand polish with wet and dry paper or Emery cloth, what's the difference between that and lapping? Is it easier to maintain size along the diameter with lapping? Does it generate less heat? Better form?
Excellent! I was wondering why you didn't just cut the groove on the lathe. 5mm pitch and a few passes with a carbide insert would make simple work of it.
Hi Stefan! Keep up with the good work! I have my home shop and your quenching furnace is quite interesting, can you share info about this cute thing? Thanks. Louis
Stefan, I really enjoy all of your videos but this episode was particularly satisfying to me, for some reason. BTW, I'm a retired tool and die maker and I still love the craft. I had to retire early (at age 68) due to a low back injury that still bothers me so now I get my "precision machining fix" from you, Clickspring and a few others. Thanks so much for what you do! TreeTop
nice work! i'll have to find some of those inserts.
Ebay! Robin gave the tip of buying some cbn inserts and just brazing them to a steel/carbide shank, then grinding/lapping them on a diamond wheel.
Hi Stefan. I must say that I enjoy your OCD with never leaving equipment bought the way it is, but tearing it apart and making it better. I learn from every video you make. Thanks for the videos.
Your dysfunction certainly makes for some interesting and educational videos! Here's hoping you don't recover any time too soon! Super interesting locking method for the adjustment ring.
I hope the person that ends up with a "GTWR" rotary table, or old rf45 mill knows how much work has gone into these machines/tools. There WAY above the standard. These old vids are great, all this info could be used on any rotary table. Amazing work👍👌🇦🇺
Loved your set screw solution for the locking ring.
Hi Stefan, Your comment about the quenching oil is interesting. Canola oil is one of the best home shop heat treat oils available. It's cheap, has a relatively high flashpoint (compared to other inexpensive oils) and can be considered a "fast" oil in terms of reaching the pearlite nose in sufficient time for hardening.
Just a comment from a blacksmith who has done alot of heat treating ;)
That was a stupendous project Stefan, thanks for sharing all the detail with us. That table deserves all the praise it receives. What a series of steps.
32:28 that was one of the best abom impressions ive ever heard ;)
Love your mention of Abom-torque!! Stefan, your videos are amazing! Thank You from New Mexico, USA!!
I really enjoy your videos. I just happened on your utube vids a few months ago and as time permits am catching up, or trying to catch up. No small task watching your many videos. I too find myself reworking new items to what I think is better than as shipped. I'm not as meticulous as you but watching your videos is getting me more precise! Thanks so much for your time and sharing! Great video work and narration also help in enjoying the craftsmanship! 👍😎
My mentor taught me a cool technique to reduce scale buildup when you harden parts. Wrap the part you want to harden in paper, then make a pouch of .003 stainless sheet. Seal it well with crimps around the edges and then put it in the oven. The paper burns up the oxygen in the pouch and the pouch prevents new oxygen from entering. When you take it out you cut the pouch open and dump the part into the oil.
You can also use boric acid if you can get your hands on it.
@@ColtaineCrows you don't want boric acid on your hands
@@Thefreakyfreek
Nice 😜! Better "hands on" than "on your hands" 🤣🤣🤣!
We just put a fair amount of barbeque-coal into the oven whit the piece we harden. We harden at ~825°C and temper at ~350°C when we make pieces in Böhler K460 or Uddeholm UHB Arne. We usually aim for the spot on the charts where change in measurments are small, that is also where (if I have got it right) the mix of hardness and tensile strength (resistance to cracking) is best.
BTW: It should be mandatory to ALWAYS tell/have a AISI/SAE-number for the steels so that they would be compareble. Now it's sometimes impossible to compare materials. We use Böhler, Uddeholm, SSAB, Sten, Meusburger and Hasco at work. When someone has made a part in a material not suitable and we shall make a new, we have to do a lot of detective-work to find the best sort that we can get our hands on...
not the worst dysfunction to have Stefan :). Interesting and informative as ever, thanks featuring hard turning,
I would have loved to sleeved the shaft on my 6" table, but what I did is wrapped and couple of feeler gauges inside as I fed the table shaft back into the hole of the main body and that complete took out the play. I found that the table shaft would jam up half way in with a .003" feeler gauge. So actually .0025 (two and a half thousandths) fit inside perfectly and now has only a 1/3 of a thousandth(0.0003) of play theoretically and now operates phenomenally!!!
Had to revisit this, my all time favourite gtwr intro!
What an awesome "dysfunction". I wish more people displayed those symptoms. Awesome workmanship from a very talented guy. Thanks for this video - I enjoyed it and learned a lot.
thank you number one 'European' precision UA-cam machinist??!!... a God among mortal men, I salute your precision!!
Maybe , but I don't understand the Russian language. But at lest i can I can understand Stepan when he is verking . LOL
It's so funny the way you giggle when it comes out just how you want. Shows how much you enjoy what you do.
There's nothing dysfunctional about improving machines and tooling. Most hobbiest items for machining are built to a price point. With some being pretty much "kits". Nice work as always.
NIce job. I really like the locking nut system you used.
:-)
great video as always Stefan like the spindle nut lock very clever solution. looking forward to the scraping segment.
Great trick with the ball bearing lock, I did the same to lock the graduated collar on the handwheel I made for the Rivett because I wanted the locking screw in the front of the handwheel rather than sticking out from the collar. Was very cool to see some hard turning, and those inserts you use sound very interesting. Well done, as always! :)
Stumbled across this video and glad I did. Very impressed with your knowledge, workmanship and humour. Thankyou for sharing.👍
Very nicely done Stefan! love the lockring.
ATB, Robin
Thank you Robin!
That ball bearing solution is genius. Well done.
I really like your method of locking the retaining nut Very elegant.
as per your usual we've got DENSE content and lots of learning. I enjoy these tear down/rebuilding/making it better episodes.
That's one amazing rotary table renovation! Hats off, Stefan.
Beautiful work as always.
I really love the right angle set screw!
You could still use those inserts for boring if you spin the work in reverse. What a great deal you got on those, well done!
I loved seeing sparks fly (17:00). I don't often see sparks when turning on a lathe; so it was *definitely* worth the price of admission, and then some.
Excellent results as always, you are an inspiration Stefan
Great stuff Stephan! I think you need to come up with a trick logo/stamp for all rebuilds..... "Approved by STGW" (lol) Keep up the great videos! Cheers, Doug
"Spectacular!" Nice one Stefan.
Everyone needs a little Abom torque from time to time!
Aerospace tip: mark the face of the shaft and nut with a paint marker. If you ever notice a change in end play, you can visually verify that the nut has not moved.
Yes! Elegant with a capital E; Thanks for the time & effort in making the video. Learned several things.
Excellent video! Really helpful for many other machining projects. And some viewers who have different thinking about some solutions (like using loctite for the bushing) please start also a U-tube channel, and show us the way you prefer, so we have even more options!
Stephan, you probably do not need the 4mm steel ball, just taper the rear of the bronze plug. Also I would use brass plug, as it would moosh into the threads a little. Great video! Love it!
Very nice improvement to the rotary table. I learned more than two things from this. Thanks
Another as perfect as possible video from Stefan. Good work :)
Very nice! I especially like the locking mechanism!
Thanks for showing how to improve such items by investing effort. I assume only hobbyists invest such an amount of time and effort in that segment, but the results are surely worth it.
When you said you are about to lap, i prepared to see the style of lapping process as seen from Tom Lipton / oxtoolco. Of course i am clueless about lapping in general, but then you showed THAT. Great.
The nut locking mechanism looks nice for the purpose. Any plans for improvement of the locking of the table itself?
Absolutely fascinating work. Thank you Stefan.
ha ha some sort of dysfunction, first on hard turning in the home shop, surplus score on those cbn bits they found a good home. love your videos you have a lot to share your projects and skills are very interesting I gotta get one of those little ovens been thinking about an inductive heater do you use anti scaling compounds ever that surface ended up pretty hard whithout it good job
totally agree with Ian below! Brilliant idea.
Very smart set screw. I have never seen that before. Thanks
Enjoyed....great build/discussion/instruction
Thanks Stefan for a very nice video. I found it very interesting and informative. Your explanations of the various operations were very enjoyable and clear.
Thanks again.
Very nicely done, great solutions.
Thank you Randy!
Great job as usual, I have never seen before that trick with the ball bearing, very clever.
Thanks for sharing.
Abom torque on anything but a beefy Greenfield tap wrench seems like a bad idea.
Very interesting video; those CBN inserts are very cool to see in action.
Really really nicely done.
I think a shallower taper on the set screw for the thread locker would be good.
Beautiful work, thanks.
Thank you!
Very nice on the locking ring. wonder how many guys could figure out how to remove.
Many would "sodomize" the thread by undoing nut as it is.
Great video and nice work! Thank you for sharing
Nicely done. Thanks for the video.
I was just thinking, that was a very good idea. After a project to stop and think back over what was learned....we should do that more I think.
Exemplary work Stefan. I suffer from a derivative of the same condition, luckily I feel its a nice condition to "suffer" in the end. I really need a furnace of some sort, I've had reasonably good luck hardening/tempering with a torch, but my condition won't allow me to continue with what amounts to barely educated guess-work. Can't wait for part 3!
Another great video, Stefan
nice job! I like the oven door. to hold the heat better.
Ha yes - I had to do something about that, the original one was terrible insulation-wise.
That was an awesome video again. Precision makes me happy :)
The lapping marks are caused by excessive heat. Too much pressure, too much speed, or both. It usually starts out great but after a little heat builds in the slurry it's a matter of seconds until it starts to seize up.
This has been a helpful series for me. I have a 4" Chinese rotary table that was manufactured to a much lower standard of quality than yours...the MT1 bore has about .050" runout. I've never quite had the confidence to tackle the job, but I think I'm ready to give it a shot now. BTW, George H. Thomas would approve of your 90 degree setscrew. ;)
Here is a question for heat treating experts. In the quench, water or oil, does the direction (orientation) of the part being dropped into the quench bucket affect the final geometry?
When in shop class, I quenched bearing driver punches, I found if you did not immerse them at right angles to the water bucket they would warp towards the cold side which would show up on finish turning. It took a little longer to plunge them in exactly straight up and down but the results were better. I suspect this hard bushing was warped cold side high. The side that hit the vegetable oil shrinks first and could warp the other side still red in the milliseconds before it reaches the oil.
I wonder if dropping the bushing down a loose mandrel set in the oil would allow a more uniform diameter shrink.
Fellow I worked with, insisted that turning the OD was actually external boring.
He served in the US Navy in WWII so I didn't argue with him. :-)
Another Excellent video Stefan!
Sehr scön! Allways a joy to watch!
Thank you!
Excellent work! Did you consider cutting oil grooves into the bushing?
Sounds like a great project for the future. Make your own set of deep cut roto broaches :)
Some kind of disfunction LOL..... nope. You are just awesome.
I own a 8" and 12" Vertex rotary table. Both are extremely good quality. This manufacture in Taiwan does not make cheep junk. Tearing the nameplate from this was a disappointment. Name brand is nothing anymore. I purchased two Fowler micrometers last year, both were junk quality. The thimbles were out of round and rubbed, they were made in China, but Fowler should have had their QC in place. China can produce extremely good quality, if your willing to pay for it. We buy low cost imports, and they produce "just good enough" in most cased for our markets. Your buying high end import quality from Vertex.
I do like your videos, I always pick up some new technique.
The nameplate was not from Vertex, only the reseller. I made a new nameplate giving Vertex the credit they deserve.
Totaly agree on "you get what you pay for", you can get precision tooling from china without a problem, if you are willing to invest.
Wow, That's some precision chiselling!.
With a screw-driver-chisel! :D
I was shocked...to say the least! I couldn't believe he didn't make a special purpose-built cihsel to cut the rivets off, LOL!
Everyone has to get a little hackory in now a then ;)
Love the videos and the ABom79 torque reference.
For me heat treating is scarey stuff but you seem to do well,probably because of your higher education.I'm reminded of the big screw-up at Springfield Armory years back where1903 springfield rifles.(Mauser copies) recievers were improperly heat chreated by color,then Quenched .Several people were hurt(soldiers) by burst brittle actions.Thanks for your hard work as always
Right - I would not do heat treating on a critical, load bearing part myself, thats something to send out to get it properly done. But for something like bushings, keys or small tool-parts I think I have it pretty good under control :D
The locking mechanism is something Singer used about eighty years ago.
as always, ive learned a lot. nice work, pretty finishes, and and a good video. :D
I think Adam would be proud of the Abom size screwdriver ;)
I have a 8” I’m going to do the same. You did a great job. Thanks for showing me how. I have indexing plates for a 6”. Do you think I can Modify them for the 8 inch?
MAD MACHINIUS! What a ride! i loved it!
Hmmmf, I sort of thought my older Vertex with the angular contact bearing was superior and they'd cheapened the design by omitting it. I can now see what you meant about which could be the better system in your last video Stefan. I may have to rethink that bearing in mine. Nicely done rebuild for sure. Have you checked the runout of the MT 2 bore in the table yet or did you just zero that first before recutting the outside of the tables spindle?
I am happy for you I am glad that it turned so good.
Thanks!
Very cool. Thank you for removing that awful name plate. I bet you enjoyed hacking that thing off. We all enjoyed seeing it go!
Stefan, I love your work and learn a lot. About the marks on your lap (probably someone else mentioned it (but I'm not in the mood to read 182 reactions at this moment); I think your lap is too narrow and grabs on the outside when you move it by hand. In Dutch it's called "schranken" and maybe in German too (it's sounds already like German for me :-)) It's a phenomena which you get most of the time when you don't want it and is sometime's hard to achieve when you want it (Murphy in the House!). I learned the hard way a long time ago and digged in deeper so I could get it it when I wanted it and bypass it when not. If you're interested I can send you a A4 which tell's you all you want to know. Key is the length of your lever (the allen key) and the width of your lapping tool and the friction involved in the process. If you want to play it safe choose your friction coefficient "1" or maximal. and the broaden your sleeve accordingly or shorten your allen key the same. It probably sounds like a mad man talking at the moment, which I can understand, but the theory is here and retrievable. Let me know if you're interested. Keep up the good work, be safe, and with best regards from Delft, Holland, Job
And, looking further, I love your solution for locking down the adjustment ring from the back. I think we share the same passion about elegant mechanical solutions. Best, Job
Love your addiction, very nice video work also.
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
German engineering at it's best. Well done dude!
Thanks Brad!
stefan nice work .
Just curious but shouldn't you have roughed up the mirror-like inner surface of the sleeve and the outside of the spigot to give the Loctite a better surface to bind to? I'm not familiar with Loctite 648, maybe it doesn't require it. Great video!
The marks on the surface are due to a too slow traverse of the lap in comparison to the rotational speed.
Neat little heat treat oven. Is that a bought item or something you built? I could sure use a little oven like that. Can you provide some details on it?
Hey MDShunk. I've got one of those - it's just a hobby enamelling kiln - pretty cheap secondhand on ebay and get yourself a cheap pyrometer. These kilns are fine up to 1000 or 1100 celcius .
I hope you are going to make a new badge plate! Maybe it's time you created your own "ox tools" style logo.
I completely understand the disfunction.
Mine is buying tools so I can manufacture more tools.
When I turn to a tight tolerance I just hand polish with wet and dry paper or Emery cloth, what's the difference between that and lapping? Is it easier to maintain size along the diameter with lapping? Does it generate less heat? Better form?
Awesome work as always. One question though. How do you oil the shaft? Isn't the oil channel covered by the bushing?
Wait for the next episode, I hardmill a new spiral grove in the bushing :)
Now that I can't wait to see. The video will be up tomorrow morning right? ;)
Excellent!
I was wondering why you didn't just cut the groove on the lathe. 5mm pitch and a few passes with a carbide insert would make simple work of it.
Hi Stefan!
Keep up with the good work!
I have my home shop and your quenching furnace is quite interesting, can you share info about this cute thing?
Thanks.
Louis
7:55 I wondered about that.
No lubrication fitting on the spindle retaining nut?
Most excellent!
You made my Monday by uploading a video:D