Thank you for this clear, concise, and sharply edited video! No-nonsense instructional material is priceless! Thanks for the tips about below-ground use too, good catch 👍
If you loosen out a hole by tightening a tapcon too tight, you can take it out, put the male end of a zip tie into the hole, then re-drive the tapcon and cut the zip tie. Works quite well.
Thank you, this video was very helpful. I have a 100 year old house, I'm trying to put a new kitchen in. I bought boxstore cabinets and was lost on how to install them.
Thank you for this and the tip about basement concrete walls. One room in my basement has two exterior concrete walls that my washer/dryer are set against and I have cheap plastic shelves that want to topple over and look hideous and unorganized so I’ve been thinking about either your method or using french cleats that I can add cabinet uppers to anytime but I hadn’t thought about water seeping in!!! They’re dark, cold and again useless as far as storage is concerned so I may have to find some moisture sealant paint and then start on some nice, functional laundry room cabinet builds 👍🏼
I actually beefed up the back by using 1/2" Baltic birch just for that reason. Normally upper cabinets would have a 1/4" back with two 3/4" nailer strips
My shop is regular construction with 2x4 and drywall. But my studio… I need some storage like this. But it’s double brick thick. So I’ve really put it off.
Matt, Thanks for the new method. You failed to give us the size of the Tapcon screws. I really appreciate you mentioning the caution about water seepage. I would have just overlooked that when I hang the wall cabinets I am planning. Would you agree that after pre-drilling the hole for the Tapcon screw, shoving the nozzle of some silicone caulking will preserve the waterproofing?
1/4" tapcons. No the issues with water are not due to the pilot holes. It's due to water seeping through the concrete itself which is a problem for some people
@@MWAWoodworks if I haven't had any water seepage issues through the walls in the basement before, do I still have to put a plastic sheet behind the cabinets?
Q: Those screws seemed really long and they were smooth half way up. So, once you drive the screw in and then hits the smooth end of the screw, what holds the screw in when you hit the hollow part of the block?
I didn't run into any issues but my cabinets have 3/4" nailers and I used a washer so I don't guess the smooth part made it all the way through the block.
Gotcha! Whew. Some guys use ¼ ply and just use pins so might be a mention in a later video. But solid info on concrete drilling and fastening! Thanks for the response!
Sir, I must correct you. You are not hanging cabinets onto concrete walls, you are attaching it onto a cinderblock wall. Trust me, there is a huge difference. I have tried both. With the cinderblock, your method works perfectly fine. With a concrete wall, depending on the age of the concrete, it can be easier or significantly harder. The older it is, the more difficult it is to drill into it. I've broken several masonry bits in older concrete just trying to get your masonry bolts into the concrete. Again Sir, there is a huge difference.
Thanks! You're correct, but the title and explanation is geared toward internet search results. Nobody searched for "cinder block" everybody searches for "concrete". It's just the game I have to play!
@@MWAWoodworks you should clarify that in the video because I have concrete walls and was about to use this as a guide. Could you please explain how to do this in actual concrete walls please?
THANK YOU so much for that! I am a novice and was thinking of trying to do this myself, but it's a CONCRETE wall... Any advice there? Should i hire a handyman?
@@MWAWoodworksI actually searched for installing shelves on a fender block wall and couldn’t find anything. I just tripped up on this video begging on your stuff.
Wood directly against an unfinished cinder block wall would not be my first choice. Even though it is above ground it can still pass significant amounts of moisture through to the wood. Is the wall sealed? It looks unfinished on my tiny screen.
Does anyone have some ideas of how to add backing to a cabinet that's already been installed? I don't want my food touching the foundation. It getscold, but much worse, there've been mice before.
I had been told to only drill holes in the mortar lines and not into the block face itself. is that one of those "old wives tales" or any validity? thank you.
That is not a concrete wall the wall is made of cinder block a major difference! You should consider where the holes are located on the cinder block if it were a concrete wall it would not mater where the holes where located. 😁🛫
Google search says most people search for concrete wall, even though they mean cinder block. In this case being right isn't as important as being found 🤣🤣🤣
@@MWAWoodworks Can you please elaborate for this novice? If it is cinder block then parts of the wall might be hollow. (Provided it was not filled). Did you check for solid bits before hand? Lol. No such thing as a stupid question right? Thank you.
Thank you for this clear, concise, and sharply edited video! No-nonsense instructional material is priceless!
Thanks for the tips about below-ground use too, good catch 👍
That's the way I roll
I really like the finished outlook of your cabinets. Simple and beautiful. Really leaened alot. Thanks
Thank you!
If you loosen out a hole by tightening a tapcon too tight, you can take it out, put the male end of a zip tie into the hole, then re-drive the tapcon and cut the zip tie. Works quite well.
Thats a great hack! Love it
Thank you very much. From Greece with love
❤️
Thank you for this vid! Super helpful
Thank you, this video was very helpful. I have a 100 year old house, I'm trying to put a new kitchen in. I bought boxstore cabinets and was lost on how to install them.
Awesome, Matt! Thanks a lot for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks 🙌
Thank you for this and the tip about basement concrete walls. One room in my basement has two exterior concrete walls that my washer/dryer are set against and I have cheap plastic shelves that want to topple over and look hideous and unorganized so I’ve been thinking about either your method or using french cleats that I can add cabinet uppers to anytime but I hadn’t thought about water seeping in!!! They’re dark, cold and again useless as far as storage is concerned so I may have to find some moisture sealant paint and then start on some nice, functional laundry room cabinet builds 👍🏼
It will make a big difference!
Thanks, are wall plugs not required while drilling into concrete
If you mean anchors, no. Tapcon scews don't require anchors
Excellent work, Matt! This was super helpful!
Thanks 🙌
How thick is the back plywood?
1/2" on one cabinet and 3/4" nailers on the other.
@@MWAWoodworks thanks!!
How strong is it to have the thin backboard support the weight of the cabinet carcass though??
I actually beefed up the back by using 1/2" Baltic birch just for that reason. Normally upper cabinets would have a 1/4" back with two 3/4" nailer strips
WHAT IS THE WEIGHT RATING OF THE MASONRY SCREWS
My shop is regular construction with 2x4 and drywall. But my studio… I need some storage like this. But it’s double brick thick. So I’ve really put it off.
Very useful info. I'm going to be installing lumber storage racks into concrete and will use your tips. Thanks for sharing!
Great video. Im planning on put up cabinets in my garage . Can i use the same method
Sure. If you're going into a stud wall though you only have to use cabinet screws. Don't use tapcons
@@MWAWoodworks on the side where it is masonry brick. Will it work on it
Yes
WICKED done so nicely. good advice.
What about shimming when joining multiple cabinets together?
Matt, Thanks for the new method. You failed to give us the size of the Tapcon screws. I really appreciate you mentioning the caution about water seepage. I would have just overlooked that when I hang the wall cabinets I am planning. Would you agree that after pre-drilling the hole for the Tapcon screw, shoving the nozzle of some silicone caulking will preserve the waterproofing?
1/4" tapcons. No the issues with water are not due to the pilot holes. It's due to water seeping through the concrete itself which is a problem for some people
@@MWAWoodworks if I haven't had any water seepage issues through the walls in the basement before, do I still have to put a plastic sheet behind the cabinets?
@@MWAWoodworks also, what is the length of the tapcons? Looks like 2 1/2" or 3", but just want to make sure. Thanks for your videos!
Q: Those screws seemed really long and they were smooth half way up. So, once you drive the screw in and then hits the smooth end of the screw, what holds the screw in when you hit the hollow part of the block?
I didn't run into any issues but my cabinets have 3/4" nailers and I used a washer so I don't guess the smooth part made it all the way through the block.
Are the backs of those cabinets 3/4? I don't see any stretchers for supporting the cabinet to the wall
One has 3/4 nailers and the other has a 1/2" back panel
What size tapcons were used ? thanks
Was the back of your cabinets made of ¾” ply and secured well? Feel like the load will rip that back panel? 😱
Half inch ply. They are screwed and glued and plenty strong!
Gotcha! Whew. Some guys use ¼ ply and just use pins so might be a mention in a later video. But solid info on concrete drilling and fastening! Thanks for the response!
Great video. You saved me about three hours of cussing and frustration💯
Sir, I must correct you. You are not hanging cabinets onto concrete walls, you are attaching it onto a cinderblock wall. Trust me, there is a huge difference. I have tried both. With the cinderblock, your method works perfectly fine. With a concrete wall, depending on the age of the concrete, it can be easier or significantly harder. The older it is, the more difficult it is to drill into it. I've broken several masonry bits in older concrete just trying to get your masonry bolts into the concrete. Again Sir, there is a huge difference.
Thanks! You're correct, but the title and explanation is geared toward internet search results. Nobody searched for "cinder block" everybody searches for "concrete". It's just the game I have to play!
You told him! Lol 😂 Thanks for the video, I’m about to in stall cabinets on “concrete “ walls now. 52 Apartments in Tucson Arizona!!!
@@MWAWoodworks you should clarify that in the video because I have concrete walls and was about to use this as a guide. Could you please explain how to do this in actual concrete walls please?
THANK YOU so much for that! I am a novice and was thinking of trying to do this myself, but it's a CONCRETE wall... Any advice there? Should i hire a handyman?
@@MWAWoodworksI actually searched for installing shelves on a fender block wall and couldn’t find anything. I just tripped up on this video begging on your stuff.
What size of screws did you use
2 1/4"
You are the best thanks
Wood directly against an unfinished cinder block wall would not be my first choice. Even though it is above ground it can still pass significant amounts of moisture through to the wood. Is the wall sealed? It looks unfinished on my tiny screen.
The plywood is sealed
Rak dindingnya mantap bang
Does anyone have some ideas of how to add backing to a cabinet that's already been installed? I don't want my food touching the foundation. It getscold, but much worse, there've been mice before.
It's best to uninstall the cabinet and then reinstall with backing
Do NOT use the hammer setting when drilling the holes for the tap cons.
Never told how long the tapcon screws are.
I think they only come in a couple sizes. The ones I used were maybe 2.5 inches
Don’t run with sharp tools.
For some reason I keep snapping tapcon heads using this method. I have even been vacuuming the holes out before inserting the tapcon. Any ideas?
I had been told to only drill holes in the mortar lines and not into the block face itself. is that one of those "old wives tales" or any validity? thank you.
That is not a concrete wall the wall is made of cinder block a major difference! You should consider where the holes are located on the cinder block if it were a concrete wall it would not mater where the holes where located. 😁🛫
Google search says most people search for concrete wall, even though they mean cinder block. In this case being right isn't as important as being found 🤣🤣🤣
@@MWAWoodworks underrated comment, as this is exactly what i was looking for and I searched for concrete! Great vid. thanks.
@@MWAWoodworks Can you please elaborate for this novice? If it is cinder block then parts of the wall might be hollow. (Provided it was not filled). Did you check for solid bits before hand? Lol. No such thing as a stupid question right? Thank you.
@@RA-zu8zj I have the same question.
@@MWAWoodworks but suggestion: you should clarify in the video as well as explain the differences or how to do it also in actual concrete.
Suppose the wall is not plum.
Never use mortar lines as fixings. Weakest point possible. Always in the block.