"Then remember you forgot to put heat shrink on the wire first..." I hate to admit it, but if I had a dollar for every time I did that, I could easily afford to buy those fancy strippers.
Back in the dim mists of time (mid 70s) when I started biking, one of the first tools I bought was an impact driver. Back then the Japanese bike manufacturers made screws out of recycled cucumber. There is something very satisfying about hitting a solid chunk of metal with a lump hammer and seeing a stubborn screw turn. Simple pleasures.
I recall a F9 viddy some years back when Ryan showed us the Vessel brand JIS screw driver from Japan....which has an impact driver action when hit with a hammer on its metal end cap....only works in counter clockwise direction unlike the full on impact driver, but it is just like a regular screw driver, thin and light and yet can do some serious screw removal when needed.
One key point about using an impact driver: push the bit into the screw firmly and then preload it by rotating the driver as far CCW (loosening direction) as you can - and THEN hit it a sharp smack.
Electromancer here, nothing beats a soldered joint. Take the time for this one. I've seen galvanic corrosion in those butt connectors. If any corrosion gets in there you'll get weird problems, especially on and data, multiplexed, or ac lines. When you only have 12volts any v drop can make problems, and tracking it down can be hard to find.
that's been my experience too, despite being completely against mainstream automotive mechanical thinking. I have some tractors on the farm that the water gets into all the electrics. the water tends to wick along the wiring through nicks and scratches in the insulation. everythings fine until the water gets into a crimped splice, then it's intermittent. but when they're soldered, they keep on working, until the wire snaps at least.
Seconding this; back when I worked in electronics, we'd use a soldered splice to haul cables through armoured conduit. Literally haul them; we'd clamp the conduit to a workbench, run a few wires through it, solder them to the end of the cable, and pull. It took two or three people hauling on them to drag the stuff through, and copious amounts of lubricating oil. The specs demanded a REALLY tight fit on a thick bundle of cables, and who were we to argue with the government? Not that it made a difference; they cancelled the project the cables were for, and we all lost our jobs.
@blackwing1362 no, that's that thing in the end of this video! I mean when I'm all by myself in the garage, put the 10mm socket down and when I reach to get it again it's gone - those who don't believe in the 10mm Socket Stealing Demon would say I misplaced it, suuuure, yeah, right
My dad has owned the same 1981 Yamaha RD 350 since new. He is such a big fan of the impact screwdriver. He has two one in the tool chest and one in the tail of the old RD. He swears by them for removing stuck fasteners on bikes and honestly it works pretty damn well. I have my own.
That thing saved me many times when I was a mechanic in the Army. The 109 series howitzers have access plates on the floor for the torsion bar anchors held in place with crosstip screws. The problem is that the rounds for the M109 series are roughly 100-300 lbs (45-136 kilos). Doesn't take long for those screws to be rendered useless to your average screwdriver.
I bought a Vessel Impacta JIS impact driver based on an older F9 video and it's got to be my second favourite tool. I've picked up a few more Vessel tools since and they've all been incredible
I think it's fantastic that the Honda Silverwing wasn't just a one-off prop, or a pump-and-dump-on-eBay impulse buy. It's still there, looking fantastic, a year and a half after Fortnine profiled it (doubling the price in the process).
Instead of the weirdo right angle socket thingie, I very much love me a micro ratchet kit. This thing gets used on my bikes nearly every time I need to work on the bikes. Mostly for hex head bolts in cramped areas, but sometimes for JIS, Flat or small hex cap bolts. CrappyTire sells them under Mastercraft branding for about $20 on sale.
Switching to JIS screwdrivers for my Honda's has greatly reduced the need for the impact driver - which back in the day was in constant demand. We had a cheap Chinese one and a Snap-On one (which worked 99% of time when the other failed)
If you don't mind the cost try the Vessel "MEGADORA IMPACTA" screwdrivers. They're JIS screwdrivers with a hammer through turning impact driver built in.
The need for an impact driver (I still have a couple and use them rarely anymore) is why I got rid of my Honda 350 in 1975 and bought my first BMW which used allen head bolts, never strip them out (also BMW uses bolts that are compatible with the metal the hold together). Thankfully they (Honda) have learned...
Those self adjusting strippers are perfect for doing taps in the middle of a wire too. Also those butt connectors you can get now with heat shrink and solder included are a game changer.
Excellent video, thanks. I would mention only in passing... aircraft maintenance back in time, we (USN Aviation Electrician Mates working on Electric systems on older aircraft) would use butt splices with ~ "Heat-Shrinkable crimp butt splices completely insulate and protect electrical connections". Yeah, aircraft requirements are a bit more stringent than use on the ground, but the strength and reliability was pretty impressive as I recall... . We also used Tie strap guns that pulled tie straps tight as you needed or required, and then snipped the tie strap off under tension, which then allowed the very sharp cut end to pull back behind the tie strap locking device. I'm sure those are still around. They worked great! Tie strap cut ends can be very sharp.
While chemical cleaners are great, ultrasonic cleaners are a massive upgrade. During engine rebuilds I used to sort bolts by mason jar and either hit them with cleaner or soak them in something like Purple Power, but with ultrasonic cleaners I just get some baskets with finer holes and have everything sorted while they clean in a singular tub. It doesn't only clean better, but it also consolidates my organization method. And the great thing is that you can get multiple carrier baskets, the ones the bolt baskets nest into, and have a simple dry organizer (slides, shelves, hooks, etc.) that can store an entire vehicle's worth of fasteners. Lack of organization costs time, both for legitimate shops and DIYers, and often why shade tree rebuilds come to a standstill when the 200 pound gorilla can't figure out which bolt went where.
A good tip for ultrasonics....place the items into a smaller container (glass jar/plastic jar or even plastic bag) then put any nasty solvent you want (acteone/gasoline/full strength degreaser etc) in the container with the item, then toss it in the US cleaner filled with just water. The sonic action passes right into the container to do its great work without contaminating the whole US cleaner, wasting all that solvent solution etc.
Best butt connector is the open barrel type that crimps onto the insulator sleeve as well as the wire. Not that silly style you all used. That right angle adapter is cool fidget toy. The chain hoist has been around forever and works when you need it, I'm just not a fan. The stripper is the right tool to use, but I find myself using the stamped tool very often because it's at hand, the other tool is too big and gets left behind because it won't fit in the space where that darn wire broke off! The tool that saves the most time is the electric ratchet, I have 1/4" and 3/8" drives that are life savers (sanity is saved, nothing more insane that twisting a nut a thousand times to get it on and off when there is essentially zero degrees available to turn the handle!) Small electric screwdrivers are an absolute must on today's bikes with all the plastic that must come off and on, but they need to have magnetic holders! Something else that saves time is a good light, something that can be hung magnetically and adjusted to shine where you need the light, and has hooks that can be used to hang it when there is no ferrous metal around.
the chain checker makes a lot of sense if you work in a shop. No risk of making a mathmatical error and its *slightly* faster, those minor times saves are what keeps a shop running.
No video will give you the satisfaction of what an ultrasonic cleaner can do until you've owned one. A few tips I have learned: Always buy one bigger than you think you'll need, you will thank yourself later. Ultrasonic cleaners with a water/(concentrated) degreaser mix will break down most anything up to baked on carbon... and even then, you might get it loose enough to scrape off. Make sure you're pre-heating your machine, get it nice and hot before you begin. Finally, if you don't want to waste your precious chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner's tub when all you have is a small handful of screws, purchase various sizes of mason jars (or whatever equivalent glass jar with screw on lids) and fill those with your cleaner mix and your items to clean and fill the tub of the machine with just water. Why mason jars and not plastic containers? Glass transmits the ultrasonic waves through its surface, plastic will absorb the waves and reduce the effectiveness of the machine. Also, the mason jars are meant to withstand high heat and pressures, ensuring they don't break or come open.
Those strippers are my go to. Ive done thousands of hours of automotive wiring and if they or the more exspensive but smaller mac tools ones fit then thats 100% what i use. defanitly worth a pair.
Oh and those cutter cripers where the crimp is in front of the pivot and you dont have to fish the wire through or let go first, those are a life save. Also go high end on those mac or snap on and yea it's $90 usd but the buttery smothness is way worth the cost. I have a "cheap" pair i bought for $35usd and years later with several lube jobs and multiple attempts at wroking them loos they are still tighter then a Nuns Habit.
For the wire stripper, spend a little extra for a decent brand. Bought a cheap unbranded pair and the grabber head is slow to bite down and doesn't have much holding force for smaller wires.
2:48 That's not supposed to do that. Either the crimping force was too low, or, far more likely, it's simply not crimped by the right die - something that appears to be *distressingly* common as the bare-metal half-moon dies are used on them, and which CANNOT crimp them properly and will fall off just like the video! Look for prismatic or press dies. Automatic crimpers will even do both crimps for you - the contact and the strain relief - with no extra hassle.
The #1 tool is the impact driver. It works great for a lot of stuck and striped screws and it is mandatory when working on old Japanese carburetors as the metal is as soft as butter. If you don't have one try Vicegrips and a screwdriver.
In the dimly lit garage, Sam, a seasoned motorbike mechanic, rummaged through his toolbox with frantic fingers. His hands trembled as he searched for his 10mm socket, the very heart of his toolkit. Each tool he lifted was not what he needed, but still, he couldn't stop searching. A sinking feeling gripped him, cold and relentless, as the socket seemed to slip further away from him with every attempt. His mind began to spiral as the whispers of his inner doubts surfaced. Memories of failed repairs, frustrated customers, and lonely nights seeped into his thoughts, tightening around him like a vice. The shadows in the corners of the garage twisted and writhed, whispering that he would never find what he was looking for-not just the socket, but solace. It felt as though the socket mocked him, hiding just beyond his reach, forever lost. The weight of despair clung to his shoulders, and he dropped to his knees. A faint metallic clink echoed from somewhere deep within the shadows. But as he turned, eyes wide and desperate, there was nothing but darkness and the weight of his own growing hopelessness. He’d never find that piece of himself again.
Damn, this captures that feeling of working on something and desperately needing that tool you can’t find, or that bit of hardware you just dropped in the gravel, etc…. Great creative writing man.
Cool. My favorite tool is a certified mechanic who gets the job quickly and efficiently. But just in case….. I like to go to the guitar store and ask for clipped off guitar strings. They are perfect for cleaning out carburetor jets and needles.
"certified mechanic who gets the job done" - Hm... considering my bike has been sitting at the dealer since June while they argue with the mfgr over shipping... well, having to get a lawyer involved sucks
Oh that is clever with the logo during the closeout. Great stuff Ryan! Looking forward to your Moto Guzzi review someday soon. Don’t think you’ll lose to much if the company doesn’t like it, lol.
2:20 Liquid electrical tape is a thing. I recommend adding electrical tape after the liquid electrical tape dries, it is flexible and needs support but it's waterproof, which complements the strengths and weakness of tape.
Commenting on the spade crimp connectors, you need a special fast-on crimper for this which folds both tabs round an inside. They are very strong that way
I much prefer Vim tools DD2 for tight spaces. It fits into very small spaces, works with bits and 1/4" sockets. You can also throw it in your edc tool kit as the smallest ratchet you will ever carry.
The DD2/3 are such useful tools for oddly placed fasteners, honestly a tool design that should be more common. VIM has some of the coolest odd tools that I haven't seen manufacturers pick up on. I've been wanting to pick up VIM's Nora wrenches for when fasteners don't have enough head room for a standard socket and ratchet to fit on to, and where pass-through ratchet sets with extra-shallow sockets are a rarity. I also want to find some crowsfeet with a perpendicular outlet similar to the Noras for the same reason, combine the two and add a simple bar with square drives at each end you can basically build your own spanners and declutter the toolbox; with the proper ecosystem (same fastener to drive offsets) you could even have a torque wrench handle and clear out yet another tool and probably clear out your socket set as well. I just wish the Noras came as a locking flex head or had a solid head variant, as useful as flex heads are I just find that any appreciable amount of torque, breaking and speccing on larger fasteners, loves to make flex heads slip off of fasteners due to the off-angle forces.
I bought a nice Hako soldering station with temp control, I will always solder if that is an option. Quick connects/splices might be easier now but cause issues down the line.
I recall back in the '80s having a fuse box tool that not only helped pulling the little "mini" transparent plastic type fuses out, but also had a tester builtin....you just put it against the small exposed metal contacted on the top of each fuse to quickly find a blown one, without needing to pull fuse out of the holder.
I've never really been a big fan of but connectors, I store most vehicles outside and I find that they usually end up corroding as bare aluminum does. Soldering takes a bit more time and care but once you get good at it it's not that bad. Not much to be done about forgetting to put heat shrink on first though, I still end up doing that about half the time 😂
@@MtJochem sponsorship implies that the person advertising it recommends it, at least somewhat, so its important tha F9 be aware that their sponsor could go downhill... Could hurt their own reputation
As a, imho better solution for the Gearless Right Angle Adapter; I still enjoy my cheapest version of the original Tite-Reach very much on a regular basis. It not only allows you to get into real tight spots and use your own bits, and it will allow for more torque than the GRAT-thingy. If you still require more torque, buy the more expensive Tite-Reach. 😁
Regarding those cross headed machine screws.. Pick yourself up a Vessel impact screwdriver. Like like a regular screwdriver but has a built in impact rotation system. It's the silver handled one. It's also JIS, which is the correct cross head for Japanese screws (usually identifiable by a small divet on the head of the screw).
Before discovering impact drivers I excelled in stripping machine screw heads on 70's bikes. I figured it was my first encounter with Loctite but perhaps it was low grade metal.
One thing on those crimp connectors, one size is only supposed to be used with one size of wire, the have to match. Otherwise the wire can sort of move out of the way of the crimping and you will gett a bad connection. They are nice otherwise as they are generally not as susceptible to vibrations as a solder joint
As an actual mechanic, it feels like I'm the only person in existence that does wire repairs correctly. I'm always having to fix electrical issues because nobody does it right. Always solder, don't ever just use crimp connectors. If you do use a crimp connector, add solder afterwards. Marine grade heat shrink tubing is a lot better than the regular stuff as well.
Those solder splice connectors are probably the way to go in most cases. If you happen to know that you need more strength, you can always twist the wires together, provided you have them there tightly enough to still fit, and you get a durable electrical connection.
I still solder and heat shrink. Back in the mid 90's I repaired a customer's Dodge Caravan that caught fire, melting the entire engine harness. I soldered and heat shrunk all 100+ wires of that main loom. I was 17, the youngest guy in the shop, so I got that dirty job.
I had to pull my fork legs out for replacement and only had track stands. We made a hoist setup with 4x4's adn ratchet straps. If I had a real garage space to wrench instead of driveway I'd absoutely be using a chain hoist.
I bought an Impact Screwdriver when I owned my Honda '83 V45 Magna. Did you know you can get extended bits for the Impact? Really helps when the wide impact screwdriver won't reach the screw.
In extremely lazy environments I love using WAGO connectors instead of crimping or soldering. especially if I want to make sure it's right first before doing permanent wiring.
The wire splice method one where I slide the heat shrink onto one wire, then do a simple half square knot so the wires hold together, then slip on the heat shrink and torch it. It'll work until I drive into the desert or a hurricane, at which point it will break and I will be stranded.
If you live near open spaces, an on/off-road bike is good as a starter, imo. I'd say 300cc or so - not too heavy, but has a bit of power for the road. Enjoy!
"Then remember you forgot to put heat shrink on the wire first..."
I hate to admit it, but if I had a dollar for every time I did that, I could easily afford to buy those fancy strippers.
The ones used in motorcycle right?
Electrical tape
@@Adonis-qb5ze
The self adjusting strippers aren't expensive. The amount of time you save with them is crazy if you do ANY amount of wiring.
Those 'fancy strippers' are $25 lol
Back in the dim mists of time (mid 70s) when I started biking, one of the first tools I bought was an impact driver. Back then the Japanese bike manufacturers made screws out of recycled cucumber. There is something very satisfying about hitting a solid chunk of metal with a lump hammer and seeing a stubborn screw turn. Simple pleasures.
Aye ..been there ...lol BUT much of the issues ..was / is ..Japanese " Philips" JIS ...head screws different OURS ....lol
@@andrewewan624so true….
@@andrewewan624Yep, even today many folk don't know the difference between those screw heads.
I recall a F9 viddy some years back when Ryan showed us the Vessel brand JIS screw driver from Japan....which has an impact driver action when hit with a hammer on its metal end cap....only works in counter clockwise direction unlike the full on impact driver, but it is just like a regular screw driver, thin and light and yet can do some serious screw removal when needed.
@TornadoCAN99 That's interesting, I wouldn't mind owning one of those screwdrivers myself.
One key point about using an impact driver: push the bit into the screw firmly and then preload it by rotating the driver as far CCW (loosening direction) as you can - and THEN hit it a sharp smack.
Electromancer here, nothing beats a soldered joint. Take the time for this one. I've seen galvanic corrosion in those butt connectors. If any corrosion gets in there you'll get weird problems, especially on and data, multiplexed, or ac lines. When you only have 12volts any v drop can make problems, and tracking it down can be hard to find.
that's been my experience too, despite being completely against mainstream automotive mechanical thinking. I have some tractors on the farm that the water gets into all the electrics. the water tends to wick along the wiring through nicks and scratches in the insulation. everythings fine until the water gets into a crimped splice, then it's intermittent. but when they're soldered, they keep on working, until the wire snaps at least.
Seconding this; back when I worked in electronics, we'd use a soldered splice to haul cables through armoured conduit. Literally haul them; we'd clamp the conduit to a workbench, run a few wires through it, solder them to the end of the cable, and pull. It took two or three people hauling on them to drag the stuff through, and copious amounts of lubricating oil.
The specs demanded a REALLY tight fit on a thick bundle of cables, and who were we to argue with the government?
Not that it made a difference; they cancelled the project the cables were for, and we all lost our jobs.
The 10mm Socket Stealing Demon is a pretty good explanation of where the hell do they go to all the time
I think that's called coworkers
@blackwing1362 no, that's that thing in the end of this video! I mean when I'm all by myself in the garage, put the 10mm socket down and when I reach to get it again it's gone - those who don't believe in the 10mm Socket Stealing Demon would say I misplaced it, suuuure, yeah, right
It's called ,"the land of lost hardware". It's actually right next to, "the land of lost socks in the dryer".
@@JRWperformance someone clearly doesn't believe in Sock Thievin' Gnomes
in 20years wrenching i never lost mine.
My dad has owned the same 1981 Yamaha RD 350 since new. He is such a big fan of the impact screwdriver. He has two one in the tool chest and one in the tail of the old RD. He swears by them for removing stuck fasteners on bikes and honestly it works pretty damn well. I have my own.
That thing saved me many times when I was a mechanic in the Army. The 109 series howitzers have access plates on the floor for the torsion bar anchors held in place with crosstip screws. The problem is that the rounds for the M109 series are roughly 100-300 lbs (45-136 kilos). Doesn't take long for those screws to be rendered useless to your average screwdriver.
I bought a Vessel Impacta JIS impact driver based on an older F9 video and it's got to be my second favourite tool. I've picked up a few more Vessel tools since and they've all been incredible
What's your first favorite?
I'll second the recommendation! I bought two, one for me and one for my shade tree mechanic buddy.
Thank you for the link with the Headlight Bulb and Hooked Heat Reflector!
Never gonna give that up.
I think it's fantastic that the Honda Silverwing wasn't just a one-off prop, or a pump-and-dump-on-eBay impulse buy. It's still there, looking fantastic, a year and a half after Fortnine profiled it (doubling the price in the process).
Instead of the weirdo right angle socket thingie, I very much love me a micro ratchet kit. This thing gets used on my bikes nearly every time I need to work on the bikes. Mostly for hex head bolts in cramped areas, but sometimes for JIS, Flat or small hex cap bolts. CrappyTire sells them under Mastercraft branding for about $20 on sale.
Switching to JIS screwdrivers for my Honda's has greatly reduced the need for the impact driver - which back in the day was in constant demand. We had a cheap Chinese one and a Snap-On one (which worked 99% of time when the other failed)
I came here to say something like that. Also, JIS impact bits are a thing.
+1 on the JIS drivers and bits.. a must have unless you love goobered up drive recesses
If you don't mind the cost try the Vessel "MEGADORA IMPACTA" screwdrivers. They're JIS screwdrivers with a hammer through turning impact driver built in.
VESSEL, made in Japan, makes an awesome JIS screwdriver. They made an impact one that works great as well
@@nathanwaightbeat me to it! 🤪
The impact screwdriver is the single most underrated tool ever. Nothing budged on my Cb500T until I used it.
The need for an impact driver (I still have a couple and use them rarely anymore) is why I got rid of my Honda 350 in 1975 and bought my first BMW which used allen head bolts, never strip them out (also BMW uses bolts that are compatible with the metal the hold together). Thankfully they (Honda) have learned...
Came here to say the same. I have a couple vintage bikes and they are life savers
Those self adjusting strippers are perfect for doing taps in the middle of a wire too. Also those butt connectors you can get now with heat shrink and solder included are a game changer.
Industry standard is to use only crimps for automotive/aircraft/military wiring...b/c solder joints are prone to vibration cracking.
Excellent video, thanks. I would mention only in passing... aircraft maintenance back in time, we (USN Aviation Electrician Mates working on Electric systems on older aircraft) would use butt splices with ~ "Heat-Shrinkable crimp butt splices completely insulate and protect electrical connections". Yeah, aircraft requirements are a bit more stringent than use on the ground, but the strength and reliability was pretty impressive as I recall... . We also used Tie strap guns that pulled tie straps tight as you needed or required, and then snipped the tie strap off under tension, which then allowed the very sharp cut end to pull back behind the tie strap locking device. I'm sure those are still around. They worked great! Tie strap cut ends can be very sharp.
dis that old school FortNine we all love. Welcome back
While chemical cleaners are great, ultrasonic cleaners are a massive upgrade. During engine rebuilds I used to sort bolts by mason jar and either hit them with cleaner or soak them in something like Purple Power, but with ultrasonic cleaners I just get some baskets with finer holes and have everything sorted while they clean in a singular tub. It doesn't only clean better, but it also consolidates my organization method. And the great thing is that you can get multiple carrier baskets, the ones the bolt baskets nest into, and have a simple dry organizer (slides, shelves, hooks, etc.) that can store an entire vehicle's worth of fasteners. Lack of organization costs time, both for legitimate shops and DIYers, and often why shade tree rebuilds come to a standstill when the 200 pound gorilla can't figure out which bolt went where.
A good tip for ultrasonics....place the items into a smaller container (glass jar/plastic jar or even plastic bag) then put any nasty solvent you want (acteone/gasoline/full strength degreaser etc) in the container with the item, then toss it in the US cleaner filled with just water. The sonic action passes right into the container to do its great work without contaminating the whole US cleaner, wasting all that solvent solution etc.
Ryan F9 is back with the innuendoes!!!😂😂😂😂
Looking for a volunteer counter 😂
Best butt connector is the open barrel type that crimps onto the insulator sleeve as well as the wire. Not that silly style you all used. That right angle adapter is cool fidget toy. The chain hoist has been around forever and works when you need it, I'm just not a fan. The stripper is the right tool to use, but I find myself using the stamped tool very often because it's at hand, the other tool is too big and gets left behind because it won't fit in the space where that darn wire broke off! The tool that saves the most time is the electric ratchet, I have 1/4" and 3/8" drives that are life savers (sanity is saved, nothing more insane that twisting a nut a thousand times to get it on and off when there is essentially zero degrees available to turn the handle!) Small electric screwdrivers are an absolute must on today's bikes with all the plastic that must come off and on, but they need to have magnetic holders! Something else that saves time is a good light, something that can be hung magnetically and adjusted to shine where you need the light, and has hooks that can be used to hang it when there is no ferrous metal around.
Love the Pamela Anderson labelling on the stripper, and the Magic Mike on the old school one.
I'm everyone else that a simple impact driver with JIS bits is the single most useful tool ever. I bought mine in 1984 and it's still going strong.
I got a pair of automatic strippers for my birthday. Never would have guessed they would do fine for motorcycle electrics.
the chain checker makes a lot of sense if you work in a shop.
No risk of making a mathmatical error and its *slightly* faster, those minor times saves are what keeps a shop running.
Connectors are not about pull strengths. They are about vibration and Heat cycles.
Which means solder joints are no good in this case, right?
@@oldred9122 not if you use lead solder, it is soft.
@@oldred9122 Automotive/aircraft/military all spec crimped wiring connections, not soldered, due to vibration cracking at soldered joints.
No video will give you the satisfaction of what an ultrasonic cleaner can do until you've owned one. A few tips I have learned:
Always buy one bigger than you think you'll need, you will thank yourself later.
Ultrasonic cleaners with a water/(concentrated) degreaser mix will break down most anything up to baked on carbon... and even then, you might get it loose enough to scrape off.
Make sure you're pre-heating your machine, get it nice and hot before you begin.
Finally, if you don't want to waste your precious chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner's tub when all you have is a small handful of screws, purchase various sizes of mason jars (or whatever equivalent glass jar with screw on lids) and fill those with your cleaner mix and your items to clean and fill the tub of the machine with just water. Why mason jars and not plastic containers? Glass transmits the ultrasonic waves through its surface, plastic will absorb the waves and reduce the effectiveness of the machine. Also, the mason jars are meant to withstand high heat and pressures, ensuring they don't break or come open.
Vessel makes a JIS impact screwdriver. Double duty: a proper screwdriver for JIS screws and an impact driver for when the going gets tough.
Yes, Ryan showed this to us some years ago....I went I bought a large & small one....love them!
Those strippers are my go to. Ive done thousands of hours of automotive wiring and if they or the more exspensive but smaller mac tools ones fit then thats 100% what i use. defanitly worth a pair.
Oh and those cutter cripers where the crimp is in front of the pivot and you dont have to fish the wire through or let go first, those are a life save. Also go high end on those mac or snap on and yea it's $90 usd but the buttery smothness is way worth the cost. I have a "cheap" pair i bought for $35usd and years later with several lube jobs and multiple attempts at wroking them loos they are still tighter then a Nuns Habit.
For the wire stripper, spend a little extra for a decent brand. Bought a cheap unbranded pair and the grabber head is slow to bite down and doesn't have much holding force for smaller wires.
2:48 That's not supposed to do that. Either the crimping force was too low, or, far more likely, it's simply not crimped by the right die - something that appears to be *distressingly* common as the bare-metal half-moon dies are used on them, and which CANNOT crimp them properly and will fall off just like the video! Look for prismatic or press dies. Automatic crimpers will even do both crimps for you - the contact and the strain relief - with no extra hassle.
The #1 tool is the impact driver. It works great for a lot of stuck and striped screws and it is mandatory when working on old Japanese carburetors as the metal is as soft as butter. If you don't have one try Vicegrips and a screwdriver.
Nice gridfinity box there @2:09
this is pure gold. each of those items could have had a full video dedicated to them
In the dimly lit garage, Sam, a seasoned motorbike mechanic, rummaged through his toolbox with frantic fingers. His hands trembled as he searched for his 10mm socket, the very heart of his toolkit. Each tool he lifted was not what he needed, but still, he couldn't stop searching. A sinking feeling gripped him, cold and relentless, as the socket seemed to slip further away from him with every attempt.
His mind began to spiral as the whispers of his inner doubts surfaced. Memories of failed repairs, frustrated customers, and lonely nights seeped into his thoughts, tightening around him like a vice. The shadows in the corners of the garage twisted and writhed, whispering that he would never find what he was looking for-not just the socket, but solace.
It felt as though the socket mocked him, hiding just beyond his reach, forever lost. The weight of despair clung to his shoulders, and he dropped to his knees. A faint metallic clink echoed from somewhere deep within the shadows. But as he turned, eyes wide and desperate, there was nothing but darkness and the weight of his own growing hopelessness. He’d never find that piece of himself again.
Damn, this captures that feeling of working on something and desperately needing that tool you can’t find, or that bit of hardware you just dropped in the gravel, etc…. Great creative writing man.
Is this your cover letter for the writer position open at Fortnine? Very good
impact driver a must have!
Wow not seen that right angle style tool before , now suddenly I need to get one :o)
The writing in these videos is so good
The ending was amazing ❤
Cool. My favorite tool is a certified mechanic who gets the job quickly and efficiently. But just in case….. I like to go to the guitar store and ask for clipped off guitar strings. They are perfect for cleaning out carburetor jets and needles.
If only...
@@arjuna190178 sometimes the cheapest way to go isn’t the cheapest. Royal infield cough cough
"certified mechanic who gets the job done" - Hm... considering my bike has been sitting at the dealer since June while they argue with the mfgr over shipping... well, having to get a lawyer involved sucks
Very clever...you are too good...fun to watch
I’m still trying to get over your “why I stopped wearing body armour” video released on April 1st…
Oh that is clever with the logo during the closeout. Great stuff Ryan! Looking forward to your Moto Guzzi review someday soon. Don’t think you’ll lose to much if the company doesn’t like it, lol.
You might want to use the right bit for the screwhead. Saves stripped screws.
2:20 Liquid electrical tape is a thing. I recommend adding electrical tape after the liquid electrical tape dries, it is flexible and needs support but it's waterproof, which complements the strengths and weakness of tape.
Someone needs to get their clones wrangled up. 😂 They're starting to get expensive and I don't want to see the channel suffer.
Ryan as always top notch production. By the by it looks like your success is going to your midsection.
Commenting on the spade crimp connectors, you need a special fast-on crimper for this which folds both tabs round an inside. They are very strong that way
I much prefer Vim tools DD2 for tight spaces. It fits into very small spaces, works with bits and 1/4" sockets. You can also throw it in your edc tool kit as the smallest ratchet you will ever carry.
The DD2/3 are such useful tools for oddly placed fasteners, honestly a tool design that should be more common. VIM has some of the coolest odd tools that I haven't seen manufacturers pick up on.
I've been wanting to pick up VIM's Nora wrenches for when fasteners don't have enough head room for a standard socket and ratchet to fit on to, and where pass-through ratchet sets with extra-shallow sockets are a rarity. I also want to find some crowsfeet with a perpendicular outlet similar to the Noras for the same reason, combine the two and add a simple bar with square drives at each end you can basically build your own spanners and declutter the toolbox; with the proper ecosystem (same fastener to drive offsets) you could even have a torque wrench handle and clear out yet another tool and probably clear out your socket set as well. I just wish the Noras came as a locking flex head or had a solid head variant, as useful as flex heads are I just find that any appreciable amount of torque, breaking and speccing on larger fasteners, loves to make flex heads slip off of fasteners due to the off-angle forces.
Impact screw driver? How did I not know about this? My life has been changed forever.
Mechanics don’t watch past 9:47, it’s a Halloween nightmare.
I bought a nice Hako soldering station with temp control, I will always solder if that is an option. Quick connects/splices might be easier now but cause issues down the line.
You guys are approaching peak Bill Nye and I am ducking here for it
Top quality link to the headlight bulb. Highly recommend and purchased immediately
I recall back in the '80s having a fuse box tool that not only helped pulling the little "mini" transparent plastic type fuses out, but also had a tester builtin....you just put it against the small exposed metal contacted on the top of each fuse to quickly find a blown one, without needing to pull fuse out of the holder.
@TornadoCAN99 excellent tool, still have one. I would still check out that link
@@partyplatter8543 Are you RickRolling me Man?
@@TornadoCAN99You can also do this with a multitester / VOM set for continuity (diode check) with the ignition off of course.
Awesome videos since 2006.
Ryan, can you PLEASE do a video on counter steering and the physics of it.
I'm almost 100% sure he has already.
I've never really been a big fan of but connectors, I store most vehicles outside and I find that they usually end up corroding as bare aluminum does. Soldering takes a bit more time and care but once you get good at it it's not that bad. Not much to be done about forgetting to put heat shrink on first though, I still end up doing that about half the time 😂
The one product of these I actually want to buy you don't have an affiliate link for. No impact screwdriver?
Ah thanks for mentioning it, I forgot! It's there now. ~RF9
Well done as always. 👍👍
Square space got bought out and went private, it's going downhill. probably worth switching sponsors..
That explains why Linus Media Group stopped accepting them as sponsors a while back
@@motoryzen their recent WAN Show highlights is how I found out
Venture capitalist buyouts are the reason so many companies go to shit
It's just a sponsor. There is nothing wrong with cashing in their money, as long as they are not shipping a bad product (yet).
@@MtJochem sponsorship implies that the person advertising it recommends it, at least somewhat, so its important tha F9 be aware that their sponsor could go downhill... Could hurt their own reputation
As a, imho better solution for the Gearless Right Angle Adapter; I still enjoy my cheapest version of the original Tite-Reach very much on a regular basis. It not only allows you to get into real tight spots and use your own bits, and it will allow for more torque than the GRAT-thingy. If you still require more torque, buy the more expensive Tite-Reach. 😁
Good video. The product reviews of late have been dissapointing and felt like another commercial but this video was useful.
Regarding those cross headed machine screws..
Pick yourself up a Vessel impact screwdriver. Like like a regular screwdriver but has a built in impact rotation system. It's the silver handled one.
It's also JIS, which is the correct cross head for Japanese screws (usually identifiable by a small divet on the head of the screw).
Finally back to making more videos!!
Before discovering impact drivers I excelled in stripping machine screw heads on 70's bikes. I figured it was my first encounter with Loctite but perhaps it was low grade metal.
One thing on those crimp connectors, one size is only supposed to be used with one size of wire, the have to match. Otherwise the wire can sort of move out of the way of the crimping and you will gett a bad connection. They are nice otherwise as they are generally not as susceptible to vibrations as a solder joint
As an actual mechanic, it feels like I'm the only person in existence that does wire repairs correctly. I'm always having to fix electrical issues because nobody does it right. Always solder, don't ever just use crimp connectors. If you do use a crimp connector, add solder afterwards. Marine grade heat shrink tubing is a lot better than the regular stuff as well.
high quality, funny and very informative as usual, nice work.
A chain drive is nice and all but how many of yall have a steel I beam on your ceiling already 😂
Those solder splice connectors are probably the way to go in most cases. If you happen to know that you need more strength, you can always twist the wires together, provided you have them there tightly enough to still fit, and you get a durable electrical connection.
Agreed, and you can't forget the heat shrink...
Self adjusting wire stripper is cheap at Harbor Freight and they work well
Properly good stuff!
Excellent video!
👍👍
I still solder and heat shrink. Back in the mid 90's I repaired a customer's Dodge Caravan that caught fire, melting the entire engine harness. I soldered and heat shrunk all 100+ wires of that main loom. I was 17, the youngest guy in the shop, so I got that dirty job.
Pamala Anderson....high quality yes LOL. I prefer high quality soldering and heat shrink over crimping any day of the week.
Spot on !
Happy Diwali Ryan 🎇🪔🥰
You guys are the best!
I had to pull my fork legs out for replacement and only had track stands. We made a hoist setup with 4x4's adn ratchet straps. If I had a real garage space to wrench instead of driveway I'd absoutely be using a chain hoist.
I bought an Impact Screwdriver when I owned my Honda '83 V45 Magna. Did you know you can get extended bits for the Impact? Really helps when the wide impact screwdriver won't reach the screw.
@0:55 the or get one free from any government parking lot had me literally laughing out loud
What a genuinely enjoyable video. ❤
Thanks for the Rick Roll.
I have a geared 90% adapter, it's tough as hell and actually more compact than that gearless model. I personally own the Milwaukee plastic version.
In extremely lazy environments I love using WAGO connectors instead of crimping or soldering. especially if I want to make sure it's right first before doing permanent wiring.
The number of innuendos was delightful 😂
Thank you
Alberta will still love you, regardless of how we parted ways...
Crimp connections resist vibration better than solder which is why they are used on aircraft
Gridfinity cameo! Nice.
The wire splice method one where I slide the heat shrink onto one wire, then do a simple half square knot so the wires hold together, then slip on the heat shrink and torch it. It'll work until I drive into the desert or a hurricane, at which point it will break and I will be stranded.
Wow he actually tasted the tape. Commitment!
Bound up in his work . . .
I did not need another video to buy more tools. Fortunately, the relevant tools for me are already owned or were already on the shopping list.
2:18 you've forgot the: the heat shrinks too close to the soldering point, now it's molten around the wire and can't move anymore
PAMELA ANDERSON 🤣
On the hunt now for my first bike. Any recommendations?
If you live near open spaces, an on/off-road bike is good as a starter, imo. I'd say 300cc or so - not too heavy, but has a bit of power for the road. Enjoy!
@ appreciate the advice
HAPPY HALLOWEEN 🎃
Aviation standard is a crimp connection, good enough for them it's good enough for me
I even lose my backup 10mm sockets, talk about scary! 😨
Happy Halloween! 👻
"...at any gov't staff parking lot." Thanks for the LOL.
Wow uploaded as my break started.
Always a good day when a new fortnite video comes out
Nice stash , great video. Iatse is looking at you.