"Then remember you forgot to put heat shrink on the wire first..." I hate to admit it, but if I had a dollar for every time I did that, I could easily afford to buy those fancy strippers.
Back in the dim mists of time (mid 70s) when I started biking, one of the first tools I bought was an impact driver. Back then the Japanese bike manufacturers made screws out of recycled cucumber. There is something very satisfying about hitting a solid chunk of metal with a lump hammer and seeing a stubborn screw turn. Simple pleasures.
I recall a F9 viddy some years back when Ryan showed us the Vessel brand JIS screw driver from Japan....which has an impact driver action when hit with a hammer on its metal end cap....only works in counter clockwise direction unlike the full on impact driver, but it is just like a regular screw driver, thin and light and yet can do some serious screw removal when needed.
@blackwing1362 no, that's that thing in the end of this video! I mean when I'm all by myself in the garage, put the 10mm socket down and when I reach to get it again it's gone - those who don't believe in the 10mm Socket Stealing Demon would say I misplaced it, suuuure, yeah, right
One key point about using an impact driver: push the bit into the screw firmly and then preload it by rotating the driver as far CCW (loosening direction) as you can - and THEN hit it a sharp smack.
I´m totally with you on this! And to bring it a bit further - all those "Climate taxes" we currently pay, could easily be revoked, and the entire "crisis" averted, by just banning most of this cheap sh1t!
The need for an impact driver (I still have a couple and use them rarely anymore) is why I got rid of my Honda 350 in 1975 and bought my first BMW which used allen head bolts, never strip them out (also BMW uses bolts that are compatible with the metal the hold together). Thankfully they (Honda) have learned...
Common motor collective made a complete upper and lower Allen bolt set. Gonna do that when I do my full gasket and clutch service this winter. Currently have a broken bolt though (gift from previous owner).
Switching to JIS screwdrivers for my Honda's has greatly reduced the need for the impact driver - which back in the day was in constant demand. We had a cheap Chinese one and a Snap-On one (which worked 99% of time when the other failed)
If you don't mind the cost try the Vessel "MEGADORA IMPACTA" screwdrivers. They're JIS screwdrivers with a hammer through turning impact driver built in.
I think it's fantastic that the Honda Silverwing wasn't just a one-off prop, or a pump-and-dump-on-eBay impulse buy. It's still there, looking fantastic, a year and a half after Fortnine profiled it (doubling the price in the process).
My daily rider! Just slim enough to split lanes, plenty of storage for grocery runs and enough weather protection for winter. Also collector plates are $12 / mo so it's very cheap to run. ~RF9
My dad has owned the same 1981 Yamaha RD 350 since new. He is such a big fan of the impact screwdriver. He has two one in the tool chest and one in the tail of the old RD. He swears by them for removing stuck fasteners on bikes and honestly it works pretty damn well. I have my own.
That thing saved me many times when I was a mechanic in the Army. The 109 series howitzers have access plates on the floor for the torsion bar anchors held in place with crosstip screws. The problem is that the rounds for the M109 series are roughly 100-300 lbs (45-136 kilos). Doesn't take long for those screws to be rendered useless to your average screwdriver.
Excellent video, thanks. I would mention only in passing... aircraft maintenance back in time, we (USN Aviation Electrician Mates working on Electric systems on older aircraft) would use butt splices with ~ "Heat-Shrinkable crimp butt splices completely insulate and protect electrical connections". Yeah, aircraft requirements are a bit more stringent than use on the ground, but the strength and reliability was pretty impressive as I recall... . We also used Tie strap guns that pulled tie straps tight as you needed or required, and then snipped the tie strap off under tension, which then allowed the very sharp cut end to pull back behind the tie strap locking device. I'm sure those are still around. They worked great! Tie strap cut ends can be very sharp.
I use a Panduit cable tie gun, but it works even better with low profile cable ties. The head is flat and the cut end of the cable tie is completely enclosed in the low profile head. They not only look a lot better, they don't snag and are much safer when reaching back in tight areas where a sharp cable tie end can cut your hand. I believe the original low profile cable tie was made by Cobra but many other people sell them now, perhaps under license if there is a patent? These are the 50 pound cable ties. I haven't seen any low profile 18 pound wire ties.
That's also why aviation units have a cotter pin and castle nut on damned near everything in the entire airframe. We literally have whole 35 gl ply drums filled with cotters to satiate the demand that comes with daily CH-47 and UH-60 maintenance.
I bought a Vessel Impacta JIS impact driver based on an older F9 video and it's got to be my second favourite tool. I've picked up a few more Vessel tools since and they've all been incredible
@@johnfriedl7126 Why? That´s a pretty niche tool. I bet the first one is that legendary 10mm socket. Never seen one myself, but I really hope that I will! Some day, I´m sure of it!
Those self adjusting strippers are perfect for doing taps in the middle of a wire too. Also those butt connectors you can get now with heat shrink and solder included are a game changer.
@@TornadoCAN99 I've never seen an OEM crimp in a car in my life but I've seen plenty of soldered lineman splices, but that's mostly due to good butt connectors actually being fairly expensive.
@criticalevent virtually every electrical multi pin connector has a crimped metal end anchoring the wire in plastic casing. The battery main lines are also sometimes a big brass metal crimp eyelet, or even a large lead post clamp which is crimped or swaged onto cable wire.
@@TornadoCAN99 That's right. Solder connections tend to slowly creep away and losen under heat and vibration. Back in my apprenticeship we learned that wire connections _always_ have to be crimped, especially for power applications. Soldering is purely reserved for electronic circuit boards.
6:30 The screws in that Suzuki are not Philips head, they're JIS, the Japanese Industrial Standard. It's a different shape and Philips head don't fit deep enough into the groves and tear out the heads. JIS fittings or screwdrivers do an excellent job and you'll rarely ever strip one again.
@@frankfeng6199 it really depends on the application. With enough vibration, soldered joints fail at the point the solder turns into copper wire, because eventually the copper breaks strand by strand and then you can get an intermittent failure. Just like you can get an intermittent failure woth corroded but connectors. Crimp has its pro's and cons. In high power applications, i like to crimp, then solder the crimp, and make damn sure that wire has no way of moving. In motorcycles i have soldered in new wiring looma into old ones. But i made damn sure all my joints were perfect. Then perfectly isolated, and then padded and permanently fixates to a rigid frame part so it can never rub trough over time. Its kinda like chess. You have to plan ahead for your opponents next move xD. In a super wet and humid enviroment i'd crimp and solder every crimp connector. Have a solder joint in the wrong mechanial place and you may have a fire hazard if high current is involved. It's really the specific application that dictates what to do exactly to make a fix that lasts for life.
Instead of the weirdo right angle socket thingie, I very much love me a micro ratchet kit. This thing gets used on my bikes nearly every time I need to work on the bikes. Mostly for hex head bolts in cramped areas, but sometimes for JIS, Flat or small hex cap bolts. CrappyTire sells them under Mastercraft branding for about $20 on sale.
Klein makes a very nice and reasonably priced low profile micro ratchet that is small enough to carry in a moto tool roll and nearly ideal for working on bikes. It uses 1/4" hex power bits (metric hex bits as well as Phillips) but I have a stubby adapter that allows me to use it with the sockets that I use with my Motion Pro T handle spinner.
The weirdo right angle socket is great for spark plugs. 4cyl 600s or the back cylinders on a transverse mounted front drive V6 cars. I’ve used it on both. Well worth the $5 for it
I may never buy any of these tools, but you’re damn sure I’m watching the video if it’s from FortNine. Glad more content is flowing routinely. Also, this is quality information, I’ll be buying the impact screwdriver tonight.
Best butt connector is the open barrel type that crimps onto the insulator sleeve as well as the wire. Not that silly style you all used. That right angle adapter is cool fidget toy. The chain hoist has been around forever and works when you need it, I'm just not a fan. The stripper is the right tool to use, but I find myself using the stamped tool very often because it's at hand, the other tool is too big and gets left behind because it won't fit in the space where that darn wire broke off! The tool that saves the most time is the electric ratchet, I have 1/4" and 3/8" drives that are life savers (sanity is saved, nothing more insane that twisting a nut a thousand times to get it on and off when there is essentially zero degrees available to turn the handle!) Small electric screwdrivers are an absolute must on today's bikes with all the plastic that must come off and on, but they need to have magnetic holders! Something else that saves time is a good light, something that can be hung magnetically and adjusted to shine where you need the light, and has hooks that can be used to hang it when there is no ferrous metal around.
Love the light you threw in there at the end! I´m 46 now, and the light is more important than ever! I disagree, however, on the stamped tool. Whenever I find one of those, I have them cursed by one of our indigenous people, and throw them into a volcano! I hate that crap! I´ve got a tiny side cutter with a recess at the bottom of the jaws that are made for stripping, so in those rare cases, that´s the tool I´d use. I do, however use those "press and crimp" connectors you´re advocating, I love those. Quick and easy. Although, I sometimes still use another length of crimp on top, just to ease out the stress of the joint over a longer piece of cable.
The heat reflector was a good hack! I normally have no problems shrinking those things on, but the few times I could damage anything else around it - I´d love to have one of those.
While chemical cleaners are great, ultrasonic cleaners are a massive upgrade. During engine rebuilds I used to sort bolts by mason jar and either hit them with cleaner or soak them in something like Purple Power, but with ultrasonic cleaners I just get some baskets with finer holes and have everything sorted while they clean in a singular tub. It doesn't only clean better, but it also consolidates my organization method. And the great thing is that you can get multiple carrier baskets, the ones the bolt baskets nest into, and have a simple dry organizer (slides, shelves, hooks, etc.) that can store an entire vehicle's worth of fasteners. Lack of organization costs time, both for legitimate shops and DIYers, and often why shade tree rebuilds come to a standstill when the 200 pound gorilla can't figure out which bolt went where.
A good tip for ultrasonics....place the items into a smaller container (glass jar/plastic jar or even plastic bag) then put any nasty solvent you want (acteone/gasoline/full strength degreaser etc) in the container with the item, then toss it in the US cleaner filled with just water. The sonic action passes right into the container to do its great work without contaminating the whole US cleaner, wasting all that solvent solution etc.
@@TornadoCAN99 Does that really work just as well? One of my hesitations on widening my use of mine was that I was worried about swapping between solvents that were horrifying in different ways to different products.
@tdj5245 yes my comment on using a solvent container for the part does work very well...sound wabes penetrate the container/bag just fine. Loads of youtube videos doing this method.
@@TornadoCAN99 What? Why? Does the solvent somehow improve the effect of the US? Otherwise it would be just as easy to wipe them off after the solvent, and to the US... .
@olenilsen4660 US cleaners use a variety of solutions for various types of items. For automotive engine/carb parts, a good strong degreasing solution is best, yet many water based onescare ineffective or harmful to some metals like steel or aluminum. Far better to use a petroleum solvent solution like varsol or even gasoline on such parts. But ifvyou needcto fill up a large US tub, you have a much harder time cleaning or disposing of the solution afterwards. A small container solve this issue and still does a great cleaning job.
Thanks for showing some love to the impact screwdriver. It's one of the first tools that my dad gave me when I moved out and got an early 80s Honda. A lot of techs made dismissive remarks about it, but I think it's something that you shouldn't live without if you're working on old bikes
In the dimly lit garage, Sam, a seasoned motorbike mechanic, rummaged through his toolbox with frantic fingers. His hands trembled as he searched for his 10mm socket, the very heart of his toolkit. Each tool he lifted was not what he needed, but still, he couldn't stop searching. A sinking feeling gripped him, cold and relentless, as the socket seemed to slip further away from him with every attempt. His mind began to spiral as the whispers of his inner doubts surfaced. Memories of failed repairs, frustrated customers, and lonely nights seeped into his thoughts, tightening around him like a vice. The shadows in the corners of the garage twisted and writhed, whispering that he would never find what he was looking for-not just the socket, but solace. It felt as though the socket mocked him, hiding just beyond his reach, forever lost. The weight of despair clung to his shoulders, and he dropped to his knees. A faint metallic clink echoed from somewhere deep within the shadows. But as he turned, eyes wide and desperate, there was nothing but darkness and the weight of his own growing hopelessness. He’d never find that piece of himself again.
Damn, this captures that feeling of working on something and desperately needing that tool you can’t find, or that bit of hardware you just dropped in the gravel, etc…. Great creative writing man.
Those strippers are my go to. Ive done thousands of hours of automotive wiring and if they or the more exspensive but smaller mac tools ones fit then thats 100% what i use. defanitly worth a pair.
Oh and those cutter cripers where the crimp is in front of the pivot and you dont have to fish the wire through or let go first, those are a life save. Also go high end on those mac or snap on and yea it's $90 usd but the buttery smothness is way worth the cost. I have a "cheap" pair i bought for $35usd and years later with several lube jobs and multiple attempts at wroking them loos they are still tighter then a Nuns Habit.
Impact driver and JIS #1-3 tips for screws with the dot. There's even an argument that JIS tips make better Phillips tips than most actual Phillips drivers.
I concur. I bought a set of JIS drivers and an impact driver; They've been invaluable, especially on older bikes with the "soft" fasteners. Most of the time, you don't even need the impact driver, having a proper JIS bit to correspond to the head is more than enough to not strip the head, even if it's a second hand bike where the previous owner partially stripped out the heads by using standard Phillips head drivers on them. JIS drivers just lock into those heads way better.
The #1 tool is the impact driver. It works great for a lot of stuck and striped screws and it is mandatory when working on old Japanese carburetors as the metal is as soft as butter. If you don't have one try Vicegrips and a screwdriver.
Electromancer here, nothing beats a soldered joint. Take the time for this one. I've seen galvanic corrosion in those butt connectors. If any corrosion gets in there you'll get weird problems, especially on and data, multiplexed, or ac lines. When you only have 12volts any v drop can make problems, and tracking it down can be hard to find.
that's been my experience too, despite being completely against mainstream automotive mechanical thinking. I have some tractors on the farm that the water gets into all the electrics. the water tends to wick along the wiring through nicks and scratches in the insulation. everythings fine until the water gets into a crimped splice, then it's intermittent. but when they're soldered, they keep on working, until the wire snaps at least.
Seconding this; back when I worked in electronics, we'd use a soldered splice to haul cables through armoured conduit. Literally haul them; we'd clamp the conduit to a workbench, run a few wires through it, solder them to the end of the cable, and pull. It took two or three people hauling on them to drag the stuff through, and copious amounts of lubricating oil. The specs demanded a REALLY tight fit on a thick bundle of cables, and who were we to argue with the government? Not that it made a difference; they cancelled the project the cables were for, and we all lost our jobs.
And when you gotta fix a whole loom of the harness at one spot, you'd have like 6 or 8 or more butt connectors to wrap up into a ball the size of your fist. Good luck stuffing that taped up baseball sized tumor under the tank/seat/behind the fairing or cover, etc. and forget about threading it through the fender grommet or whatever small hole it used to fit through.
Electrical engineer here. Soldering stranded wire converts it to solid wire, creating a stress riser at the transition. In a high vibration environment such as a vehicle, this results in metal fatigue failures. This can be mitigated by using heat shrink over the soldered connection and a longer piece of heat shrink over that to minimize flexing at the joint, and by cable tying the wire as close as possible to the joint to prevent it from vibrating. A better solution is GOOD (Panduit, Amp, Tyco, etc.) insulated quick disconnect (QD) or other crimped connectors with a GOOD crimper designed for that specific connector. We no longer need to buy the $130 Amp crimpers. I have several of those for different connectors. Taiwan makes some good crimpers that work well but buyer beware. Get one with good reviews. But don't buy cheap Chinese crimp connectors. Pay 2-3X as much for good name brand crimp connectors and you'll have a reliable gas tight crimped connection that won't corrode, and it's faster and easier than soldering.
Oh that is clever with the logo during the closeout. Great stuff Ryan! Looking forward to your Moto Guzzi review someday soon. Don’t think you’ll lose to much if the company doesn’t like it, lol.
I worked my way through college as a mobile audio installer and automotive electrical troubleshooter. A well done butt splice is indeed quite strong, however the issue is while it may be good when you first make the splice, over time with vibration it can work loose. I've seen quite a few butt splices fail, some were just done wrong for sure, but many were fine and just failed. I prefer to solder when I can but will use the occasional butt splice...
Long time ago worked with military radars. Educated how to solder properly. A well made soldered connection will work for more than the lifetime of the device, even in a hostile environment. Also have soldered connections on pre WW2 bikes still no failures. But much faster to make a correct crimping. And much easier to learn.
I walked in to my local second hand tool shop one day. There in the 10mm bin was one shiny 10mm. SNAP ON!! I Yoinked it. Paid the $2 and left. Now I know what winning a million dollars feels like
The crimpers you used at 2:40 are also used for coated connectors, and do a much better job due to length of handles and being on the other side of the pivot point. The coated connectors go in the dip behind the nipple for uncoated (closer to your hand)
The impact screwdriver saved my project quite literally a few months ago. I was rebuilding a rack of seized carbs and stripping every single screw, every single time, even with proper JIS bits. One whack to each screw, the whole thing was down in 5 minutes. I can't recommend an impact screwdriver enough. Cheap too.
2:48 That's not supposed to do that. Either the crimping force was too low, or, far more likely, it's simply not crimped by the right die - something that appears to be *distressingly* common as the bare-metal half-moon dies are used on them, and which CANNOT crimp them properly and will fall off just like the video! Look for prismatic or press dies. Automatic crimpers will even do both crimps for you - the contact and the strain relief - with no extra hassle.
When I worked for a major dealer in Alabama we used chain hoists in all assemblies that needed picked up. Most bikes need the front tire put on in assembly, and most ATVs need tires and shocks put on. Chain hoists are great.
For the wire stripper, spend a little extra for a decent brand. Bought a cheap unbranded pair and the grabber head is slow to bite down and doesn't have much holding force for smaller wires.
I've got a chain hoist, but mine hold the tires for my truck (winter and summer sets of 5) up in the roof of my shed. In my garage, I have the cheap cable winch for a trailer from Harbor Fright. I put two cables on it that go to snatch blocks, and as my main bike is an ST1100 Honda (model of 1991), I hook the cables to the crash bars. The rear, I used a ratchet strap hooked to the rafters and depending on the work, straps on the grab handles, frame, or what have you and have all manner of angle adjusting, as needed. Held the bike up while replacing the final drive, swing arm reconditioning, lowered to swap the fuel pump, lifted high in the front for brake work, and replacing the clutch, Also upgrading the alternator (why it was down and out to begin with) . . . got it back on the road this spring, and promptly lost the motor due to a crash the previous owner had nearly 80,000 miles ago. the radiator rubbed so lightly on the frame it took this long for it to rub through and overheat the works. Slowly transferring the newer bits to the other ST I own.
Cool. My favorite tool is a certified mechanic who gets the job quickly and efficiently. But just in case….. I like to go to the guitar store and ask for clipped off guitar strings. They are perfect for cleaning out carburetor jets and needles.
"certified mechanic who gets the job done" - Hm... considering my bike has been sitting at the dealer since June while they argue with the mfgr over shipping... well, having to get a lawyer involved sucks
I use crimps with integrated heat shrink, so easy to use and a big time saver, plus it’s color coded so you know which size to use (pink blue or yellow)
@@MtJochem sponsorship implies that the person advertising it recommends it, at least somewhat, so its important tha F9 be aware that their sponsor could go downhill... Could hurt their own reputation
Love the advertisement/sponsor time. Properly taking some time to use the videos content to show a sponsor makes me watch and not skip. Well done. Going to check out Squarespace now.
Hvac technician here and Ryan just taught me another way to look for electrical shorts with a light bulb. Brilliant 💡never thought of that technique lol would actually work for 24v circuits safely
the chain checker makes a lot of sense if you work in a shop. No risk of making a mathmatical error and its *slightly* faster, those minor times saves are what keeps a shop running.
I can’t use a ruler to adjust my chain, as I’m not acquainted with any kings queens or other heads of state. Instead, I use a humble stainless steel rule and do it myself. 😉
entertainment wise pure gold. I don´t care that there is also usefull info "hidden" in the "commercial". thank you. keep them comming, the more the better. or some such.
I recall back in the '80s having a fuse box tool that not only helped pulling the little "mini" transparent plastic type fuses out, but also had a tester builtin....you just put it against the small exposed metal contacted on the top of each fuse to quickly find a blown one, without needing to pull fuse out of the holder.
6:25 BEFORE using the impact driver, take the bit you will use, place it in the screw by itself and give a sharp (put your purse down before you hit it, but don't try to make a new screw head) hit with a smaller hammer. This will shock the threads. As well, if you suspect the fastener has any sort of thread locker on it, warm it up with a butane torch. 8:22 This tool was originally invented by Boeing decades ago. It was rumored to have a use in only ONE application, before a design change negated the usefulness of the tool - still kind of cool. I bought one back in the 1990s to disassemble a particularly valuable wreck, and other than for show and tell, have never used it since. It is a nice way to demostrate how hydraulic piston pumps work.
No video will give you the satisfaction of what an ultrasonic cleaner can do until you've owned one. A few tips I have learned: Always buy one bigger than you think you'll need, you will thank yourself later. Ultrasonic cleaners with a water/(concentrated) degreaser mix will break down most anything up to baked on carbon... and even then, you might get it loose enough to scrape off. Make sure you're pre-heating your machine, get it nice and hot before you begin. Finally, if you don't want to waste your precious chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner's tub when all you have is a small handful of screws, purchase various sizes of mason jars (or whatever equivalent glass jar with screw on lids) and fill those with your cleaner mix and your items to clean and fill the tub of the machine with just water. Why mason jars and not plastic containers? Glass transmits the ultrasonic waves through its surface, plastic will absorb the waves and reduce the effectiveness of the machine. Also, the mason jars are meant to withstand high heat and pressures, ensuring they don't break or come open.
2:20 Liquid electrical tape is a thing. I recommend adding electrical tape after the liquid electrical tape dries, it is flexible and needs support but it's waterproof, which complements the strengths and weakness of tape.
There isn't a universe where I will ever be without an impact-rated right angle driver again. I have a Kreg one (bought for pocket screw woodworking joinery), but Dewalt and others make them. I use mine every time I'm working on a vehicle. So handy, and I've used mine loads, and it shows no signs of wear.
When I got my first motorcycle in 1968, I got an impact screwdriver and metric socket set to work on it. They are still used to work on my Goldwing today.
Re: Hoist. I have a two post car lift. (Best $2k ever spent.) I angle the arms in a bit, put an old 4x4 across them running under the bike, lift carefully. Surprisingly stable for my bikes. Very quick and easy. You don't even have to retract the kickstand. Careful location of the 4x4 just ahead or behind the CG lifts the front or the back of the bike.
6:35 -- Don't forget that Japanese bikes don't use Phillips screws -- before moving over to hex or Torx, they used JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screws. The damage to your Suzuki Scruzukis is done because the Phillips is designed to cam out of the screw. JIS doesn't do this, and JIS screws are thus made to transfer more of the force into the fastener. Using a Phillips driver on a JIS screw, all of the force goes to one small part of the fastener, encouraging damage. In fact, you want to find an old, made in Japan impact tool, which usually came with a couple of different sizes of JIS bit. Failing that, a JIS bit in an electric impact tool also works just fine.
Glad to see someone else advocating for butt splices. Always and forever a better option than soldering when it can be done properly. Horse power academy has been saying that for years. All the highest forms of Motorsport use butt splices instead of soldering. No heat means you don’t weaken the wire, when you don’t weaken the wire it doesn’t eventually break at the edge of the solder from vibrations and being yanked around. Just invest in proper butt splices and crimp tools, do a little practicing and jobs a good’un.
I much prefer Vim tools DD2 for tight spaces. It fits into very small spaces, works with bits and 1/4" sockets. You can also throw it in your edc tool kit as the smallest ratchet you will ever carry.
The DD2/3 are such useful tools for oddly placed fasteners, honestly a tool design that should be more common. VIM has some of the coolest odd tools that I haven't seen manufacturers pick up on. I've been wanting to pick up VIM's Nora wrenches for when fasteners don't have enough head room for a standard socket and ratchet to fit on to, and where pass-through ratchet sets with extra-shallow sockets are a rarity. I also want to find some crowsfeet with a perpendicular outlet similar to the Noras for the same reason, combine the two and add a simple bar with square drives at each end you can basically build your own spanners and declutter the toolbox; with the proper ecosystem (same fastener to drive offsets) you could even have a torque wrench handle and clear out yet another tool and probably clear out your socket set as well. I just wish the Noras came as a locking flex head or had a solid head variant, as useful as flex heads are I just find that any appreciable amount of torque, breaking and speccing on larger fasteners, loves to make flex heads slip off of fasteners due to the off-angle forces.
I used to be a huge fan of butt connectors, but ever since I was taught how to properly solder, I use the union splice every time. This way I know it will be good forever.
If your wiring has 29 kilos of tension on it, you just need to tell my brother to stop wiring up your bike. Love the chain hoist, I've been using one to take wheels off motorcycles for 20 years. EDIT: I just wanted to add, this channel has saved me so much time, money, and probably my life at least once.
Might want to add that impact drivers can be set to tighten or looser by rotating the head. They don't work well in the wrong mode. Fun video as always ;D
I already knew the tip about hanging a bike up to work on it; Trevor Pritchett over on the Mopboyz channel has been hanging up his scooters to work on them for a while now; it makes certain tasks way easier. He doesn't even use a chain hoist, as good quality ropes are usually enough to do the job with a scooter or smaller bike. It works so well I've been doing it myself on a few projects. Of course, you also failed to mention the humble milk crate; My brother has employed them for years when working on motocross bikes, as well as using them as step stools when working on cars, or as a place to sit next to a bike at just the right height to remove that exhaust or carb, or do valve tappet adjustment comfortably. In the case of a scooter, it could also be used for cheap extra storage for the rear rack. You can usually get milk crates for free if you know where to look; I always have a stash of them, not the flimsy store-bought ones mind you, the quality ones used by grocery stores and dairy farms... Accept no substitute!
I bought an Impact Screwdriver when I owned my Honda '83 V45 Magna. Did you know you can get extended bits for the Impact? Really helps when the wide impact screwdriver won't reach the screw.
The shade tree mechanic version of a chain hoist is the 1500 pound NRS cam buckle strap (accept no substitutes). One or two of these straps can be used to hoist the front or back of a motorcycle using a stout tree limb, garage rafters, etc. The cam buckle locks so the bike doesn't fall if you let go. Using two straps on the handlebars means maybe 100 pounds in each strap, but the strap is doubled into a loop so that's only 50 pounds in each piece of webbing. It's surprisingly quick and easy to hoist even a heavy bike this way, the straps are cheap, and they're light enough that I pack them on the bike in case I need to do major repairs when traveling. They're also great to solo lift an ADV bike, and are particularly useful combined with 100 feet of 550 pound test paracord and a small pulley attached to the bike to get a 2:1 mechanical advantage. I use the same straps to hang my hammock when moto camping so I'm already carrying them. A 20 foot strap can also be used to tow a bike, and straps are very handy if you need to chuck your bike in the back of someone's pickup truck.
I bought a nice Hako soldering station with temp control, I will always solder if that is an option. Quick connects/splices might be easier now but cause issues down the line.
"Then remember you forgot to put heat shrink on the wire first..."
I hate to admit it, but if I had a dollar for every time I did that, I could easily afford to buy those fancy strippers.
The ones used in motorcycle right?
Electrical tape
@@Adonis-qb5ze
The self adjusting strippers aren't expensive. The amount of time you save with them is crazy if you do ANY amount of wiring.
Those 'fancy strippers' are $25 lol
Back in the dim mists of time (mid 70s) when I started biking, one of the first tools I bought was an impact driver. Back then the Japanese bike manufacturers made screws out of recycled cucumber. There is something very satisfying about hitting a solid chunk of metal with a lump hammer and seeing a stubborn screw turn. Simple pleasures.
Aye ..been there ...lol BUT much of the issues ..was / is ..Japanese " Philips" JIS ...head screws different OURS ....lol
@@andrewewan624so true….
@@andrewewan624Yep, even today many folk don't know the difference between those screw heads.
I recall a F9 viddy some years back when Ryan showed us the Vessel brand JIS screw driver from Japan....which has an impact driver action when hit with a hammer on its metal end cap....only works in counter clockwise direction unlike the full on impact driver, but it is just like a regular screw driver, thin and light and yet can do some serious screw removal when needed.
@TornadoCAN99 That's interesting, I wouldn't mind owning one of those screwdrivers myself.
The 10mm Socket Stealing Demon is a pretty good explanation of where the hell do they go to all the time
I think that's called coworkers
@blackwing1362 no, that's that thing in the end of this video! I mean when I'm all by myself in the garage, put the 10mm socket down and when I reach to get it again it's gone - those who don't believe in the 10mm Socket Stealing Demon would say I misplaced it, suuuure, yeah, right
It's called ,"the land of lost hardware". It's actually right next to, "the land of lost socks in the dryer".
@@JRWperformance someone clearly doesn't believe in Sock Thievin' Gnomes
in 20years wrenching i never lost mine.
One key point about using an impact driver: push the bit into the screw firmly and then preload it by rotating the driver as far CCW (loosening direction) as you can - and THEN hit it a sharp smack.
I´m totally with you on this! And to bring it a bit further - all those "Climate taxes" we currently pay, could easily be revoked, and the entire "crisis" averted, by just banning most of this cheap sh1t!
obvious if you are spatially aware.
@@kevinim300 lol right? Key point is to use the tool as intended.
That is the only way it works.
The impact screwdriver is the single most underrated tool ever. Nothing budged on my Cb500T until I used it.
The need for an impact driver (I still have a couple and use them rarely anymore) is why I got rid of my Honda 350 in 1975 and bought my first BMW which used allen head bolts, never strip them out (also BMW uses bolts that are compatible with the metal the hold together). Thankfully they (Honda) have learned...
Came here to say the same. I have a couple vintage bikes and they are life savers
I also bought an impact screwdriver to get into my CB500T haha
@Yoshi-rq9xi I bought one 45 years ago to get my Honda CD 125 open.
Common motor collective made a complete upper and lower Allen bolt set. Gonna do that when I do my full gasket and clutch service this winter. Currently have a broken bolt though (gift from previous owner).
Switching to JIS screwdrivers for my Honda's has greatly reduced the need for the impact driver - which back in the day was in constant demand. We had a cheap Chinese one and a Snap-On one (which worked 99% of time when the other failed)
I came here to say something like that. Also, JIS impact bits are a thing.
+1 on the JIS drivers and bits.. a must have unless you love goobered up drive recesses
If you don't mind the cost try the Vessel "MEGADORA IMPACTA" screwdrivers. They're JIS screwdrivers with a hammer through turning impact driver built in.
VESSEL, made in Japan, makes an awesome JIS screwdriver. They made an impact one that works great as well
@@nathanwaightbeat me to it! 🤪
I think it's fantastic that the Honda Silverwing wasn't just a one-off prop, or a pump-and-dump-on-eBay impulse buy. It's still there, looking fantastic, a year and a half after Fortnine profiled it (doubling the price in the process).
My daily rider! Just slim enough to split lanes, plenty of storage for grocery runs and enough weather protection for winter. Also collector plates are $12 / mo so it's very cheap to run. ~RF9
I was amused by how prominently it was featured while a chain tool was being talked about, considering that bike has a shaft drive
My dad has owned the same 1981 Yamaha RD 350 since new. He is such a big fan of the impact screwdriver. He has two one in the tool chest and one in the tail of the old RD. He swears by them for removing stuck fasteners on bikes and honestly it works pretty damn well. I have my own.
That thing saved me many times when I was a mechanic in the Army. The 109 series howitzers have access plates on the floor for the torsion bar anchors held in place with crosstip screws. The problem is that the rounds for the M109 series are roughly 100-300 lbs (45-136 kilos). Doesn't take long for those screws to be rendered useless to your average screwdriver.
Man, I´d love to have a bike like that.
Excellent video, thanks. I would mention only in passing... aircraft maintenance back in time, we (USN Aviation Electrician Mates working on Electric systems on older aircraft) would use butt splices with ~ "Heat-Shrinkable crimp butt splices completely insulate and protect electrical connections". Yeah, aircraft requirements are a bit more stringent than use on the ground, but the strength and reliability was pretty impressive as I recall... . We also used Tie strap guns that pulled tie straps tight as you needed or required, and then snipped the tie strap off under tension, which then allowed the very sharp cut end to pull back behind the tie strap locking device. I'm sure those are still around. They worked great! Tie strap cut ends can be very sharp.
Damn that sounds awesome! I'm getting one of those tie strap guns for sure. ~RF9
For ultimate tool nerdiness look for an air powered tie strap gun!
I use a Panduit cable tie gun, but it works even better with low profile cable ties. The head is flat and the cut end of the cable tie is completely enclosed in the low profile head. They not only look a lot better, they don't snag and are much safer when reaching back in tight areas where a sharp cable tie end can cut your hand. I believe the original low profile cable tie was made by Cobra but many other people sell them now, perhaps under license if there is a patent? These are the 50 pound cable ties. I haven't seen any low profile 18 pound wire ties.
Panduit is the best! I have used both manual (model name GTS-E, costs about 150 bucks) and a pneumatic one (PTS).
That's also why aviation units have a cotter pin and castle nut on damned near everything in the entire airframe.
We literally have whole 35 gl ply drums filled with cotters to satiate the demand that comes with daily CH-47 and UH-60 maintenance.
I bought a Vessel Impacta JIS impact driver based on an older F9 video and it's got to be my second favourite tool. I've picked up a few more Vessel tools since and they've all been incredible
What's your first favorite?
I'll second the recommendation! I bought two, one for me and one for my shade tree mechanic buddy.
@@nifty_biscuit I bet it's Knipex parallel pliers.
Yeah I still use mine all the time! Looks as shapely as the day I bought it. ~RF9
@@johnfriedl7126 Why? That´s a pretty niche tool. I bet the first one is that legendary 10mm socket. Never seen one myself, but I really hope that I will! Some day, I´m sure of it!
Those self adjusting strippers are perfect for doing taps in the middle of a wire too. Also those butt connectors you can get now with heat shrink and solder included are a game changer.
Industry standard is to use only crimps for automotive/aircraft/military wiring...b/c solder joints are prone to vibration cracking.
@@TornadoCAN99 I've never seen an OEM crimp in a car in my life but I've seen plenty of soldered lineman splices, but that's mostly due to good butt connectors actually being fairly expensive.
@criticalevent virtually every electrical multi pin connector has a crimped metal end anchoring the wire in plastic casing. The battery main lines are also sometimes a big brass metal crimp eyelet, or even a large lead post clamp which is crimped or swaged onto cable wire.
@@TornadoCAN99 That's right. Solder connections tend to slowly creep away and losen under heat and vibration. Back in my apprenticeship we learned that wire connections _always_ have to be crimped, especially for power applications. Soldering is purely reserved for electronic circuit boards.
@@TornadoCAN99 What has that got to do with butt connecting wires?
6:30 The screws in that Suzuki are not Philips head, they're JIS, the Japanese Industrial Standard. It's a different shape and Philips head don't fit deep enough into the groves and tear out the heads. JIS fittings or screwdrivers do an excellent job and you'll rarely ever strip one again.
This, got a jis driver set and never had a problem
You can get a JIS impact screwdriver as well, looks like a normal screwdriver, but if you hit it on the end, it rotates like an impact driver.
Connectors are not about pull strengths. They are about vibration and Heat cycles.
Which means solder joints are no good in this case, right?
@@oldred9122 not if you use lead solder, it is soft.
@@oldred9122 Automotive/aircraft/military all spec crimped wiring connections, not soldered, due to vibration cracking at soldered joints.
so crimped joints are still better 😅
@@frankfeng6199 it really depends on the application. With enough vibration, soldered joints fail at the point the solder turns into copper wire, because eventually the copper breaks strand by strand and then you can get an intermittent failure. Just like you can get an intermittent failure woth corroded but connectors. Crimp has its pro's and cons. In high power applications, i like to crimp, then solder the crimp, and make damn sure that wire has no way of moving. In motorcycles i have soldered in new wiring looma into old ones. But i made damn sure all my joints were perfect. Then perfectly isolated, and then padded and permanently fixates to a rigid frame part so it can never rub trough over time. Its kinda like chess. You have to plan ahead for your opponents next move xD. In a super wet and humid enviroment i'd crimp and solder every crimp connector. Have a solder joint in the wrong mechanial place and you may have a fire hazard if high current is involved. It's really the specific application that dictates what to do exactly to make a fix that lasts for life.
Instead of the weirdo right angle socket thingie, I very much love me a micro ratchet kit. This thing gets used on my bikes nearly every time I need to work on the bikes. Mostly for hex head bolts in cramped areas, but sometimes for JIS, Flat or small hex cap bolts. CrappyTire sells them under Mastercraft branding for about $20 on sale.
Klein makes a very nice and reasonably priced low profile micro ratchet that is small enough to carry in a moto tool roll and nearly ideal for working on bikes. It uses 1/4" hex power bits (metric hex bits as well as Phillips) but I have a stubby adapter that allows me to use it with the sockets that I use with my Motion Pro T handle spinner.
The weirdo right angle socket is great for spark plugs. 4cyl 600s or the back cylinders on a transverse mounted front drive V6 cars. I’ve used it on both. Well worth the $5 for it
I'm everyone else that a simple impact driver with JIS bits is the single most useful tool ever. I bought mine in 1984 and it's still going strong.
JIS bits are THE game changer!
I may never buy any of these tools, but you’re damn sure I’m watching the video if it’s from FortNine.
Glad more content is flowing routinely. Also, this is quality information, I’ll be buying the impact screwdriver tonight.
Best butt connector is the open barrel type that crimps onto the insulator sleeve as well as the wire. Not that silly style you all used. That right angle adapter is cool fidget toy. The chain hoist has been around forever and works when you need it, I'm just not a fan. The stripper is the right tool to use, but I find myself using the stamped tool very often because it's at hand, the other tool is too big and gets left behind because it won't fit in the space where that darn wire broke off! The tool that saves the most time is the electric ratchet, I have 1/4" and 3/8" drives that are life savers (sanity is saved, nothing more insane that twisting a nut a thousand times to get it on and off when there is essentially zero degrees available to turn the handle!) Small electric screwdrivers are an absolute must on today's bikes with all the plastic that must come off and on, but they need to have magnetic holders! Something else that saves time is a good light, something that can be hung magnetically and adjusted to shine where you need the light, and has hooks that can be used to hang it when there is no ferrous metal around.
Amen for the light, being able to see what you're doing makes any motorcycle job so much easier.
Love the light you threw in there at the end! I´m 46 now, and the light is more important than ever! I disagree, however, on the stamped tool. Whenever I find one of those, I have them cursed by one of our indigenous people, and throw them into a volcano! I hate that crap! I´ve got a tiny side cutter with a recess at the bottom of the jaws that are made for stripping, so in those rare cases, that´s the tool I´d use.
I do, however use those "press and crimp" connectors you´re advocating, I love those. Quick and easy. Although, I sometimes still use another length of crimp on top, just to ease out the stress of the joint over a longer piece of cable.
For me, I absolutely enjoy your videos, super clever, hilarious at times, please don’t stop making this content. It’s so much fun.
Thank you for the link with the Headlight Bulb and Hooked Heat Reflector!
Never gonna give that up.
Strange. I have yet to find a heat gun set that doesn't include exactly such a thing 🤷♂
The heat reflector was a good hack! I normally have no problems shrinking those things on, but the few times I could damage anything else around it - I´d love to have one of those.
@@VoodooMcVee What? A curved shield like that? I´ve never seen one...
While chemical cleaners are great, ultrasonic cleaners are a massive upgrade. During engine rebuilds I used to sort bolts by mason jar and either hit them with cleaner or soak them in something like Purple Power, but with ultrasonic cleaners I just get some baskets with finer holes and have everything sorted while they clean in a singular tub. It doesn't only clean better, but it also consolidates my organization method. And the great thing is that you can get multiple carrier baskets, the ones the bolt baskets nest into, and have a simple dry organizer (slides, shelves, hooks, etc.) that can store an entire vehicle's worth of fasteners. Lack of organization costs time, both for legitimate shops and DIYers, and often why shade tree rebuilds come to a standstill when the 200 pound gorilla can't figure out which bolt went where.
A good tip for ultrasonics....place the items into a smaller container (glass jar/plastic jar or even plastic bag) then put any nasty solvent you want (acteone/gasoline/full strength degreaser etc) in the container with the item, then toss it in the US cleaner filled with just water. The sonic action passes right into the container to do its great work without contaminating the whole US cleaner, wasting all that solvent solution etc.
@@TornadoCAN99 Does that really work just as well? One of my hesitations on widening my use of mine was that I was worried about swapping between solvents that were horrifying in different ways to different products.
@tdj5245 yes my comment on using a solvent container for the part does work very well...sound wabes penetrate the container/bag just fine. Loads of youtube videos doing this method.
@@TornadoCAN99 What? Why? Does the solvent somehow improve the effect of the US? Otherwise it would be just as easy to wipe them off after the solvent, and to the US... .
@olenilsen4660 US cleaners use a variety of solutions for various types of items. For automotive engine/carb parts, a good strong degreasing solution is best, yet many water based onescare ineffective or harmful to some metals like steel or aluminum. Far better to use a petroleum solvent solution like varsol or even gasoline on such parts. But ifvyou needcto fill up a large US tub, you have a much harder time cleaning or disposing of the solution afterwards. A small container solve this issue and still does a great cleaning job.
Thanks for showing some love to the impact screwdriver. It's one of the first tools that my dad gave me when I moved out and got an early 80s Honda. A lot of techs made dismissive remarks about it, but I think it's something that you shouldn't live without if you're working on old bikes
I've still got the impact driver i bought when i was 17 in 1980 - saved my bacon numerous times ! 👍
In the dimly lit garage, Sam, a seasoned motorbike mechanic, rummaged through his toolbox with frantic fingers. His hands trembled as he searched for his 10mm socket, the very heart of his toolkit. Each tool he lifted was not what he needed, but still, he couldn't stop searching. A sinking feeling gripped him, cold and relentless, as the socket seemed to slip further away from him with every attempt.
His mind began to spiral as the whispers of his inner doubts surfaced. Memories of failed repairs, frustrated customers, and lonely nights seeped into his thoughts, tightening around him like a vice. The shadows in the corners of the garage twisted and writhed, whispering that he would never find what he was looking for-not just the socket, but solace.
It felt as though the socket mocked him, hiding just beyond his reach, forever lost. The weight of despair clung to his shoulders, and he dropped to his knees. A faint metallic clink echoed from somewhere deep within the shadows. But as he turned, eyes wide and desperate, there was nothing but darkness and the weight of his own growing hopelessness. He’d never find that piece of himself again.
Damn, this captures that feeling of working on something and desperately needing that tool you can’t find, or that bit of hardware you just dropped in the gravel, etc…. Great creative writing man.
Is this your cover letter for the writer position open at Fortnine? Very good
Lmaro
Those strippers are my go to. Ive done thousands of hours of automotive wiring and if they or the more exspensive but smaller mac tools ones fit then thats 100% what i use. defanitly worth a pair.
Oh and those cutter cripers where the crimp is in front of the pivot and you dont have to fish the wire through or let go first, those are a life save. Also go high end on those mac or snap on and yea it's $90 usd but the buttery smothness is way worth the cost. I have a "cheap" pair i bought for $35usd and years later with several lube jobs and multiple attempts at wroking them loos they are still tighter then a Nuns Habit.
Impact driver and JIS #1-3 tips for screws with the dot. There's even an argument that JIS tips make better Phillips tips than most actual Phillips drivers.
I concur. I bought a set of JIS drivers and an impact driver; They've been invaluable, especially on older bikes with the "soft" fasteners. Most of the time, you don't even need the impact driver, having a proper JIS bit to correspond to the head is more than enough to not strip the head, even if it's a second hand bike where the previous owner partially stripped out the heads by using standard Phillips head drivers on them. JIS drivers just lock into those heads way better.
The #1 tool is the impact driver. It works great for a lot of stuck and striped screws and it is mandatory when working on old Japanese carburetors as the metal is as soft as butter. If you don't have one try Vicegrips and a screwdriver.
Electromancer here, nothing beats a soldered joint. Take the time for this one. I've seen galvanic corrosion in those butt connectors. If any corrosion gets in there you'll get weird problems, especially on and data, multiplexed, or ac lines. When you only have 12volts any v drop can make problems, and tracking it down can be hard to find.
that's been my experience too, despite being completely against mainstream automotive mechanical thinking. I have some tractors on the farm that the water gets into all the electrics. the water tends to wick along the wiring through nicks and scratches in the insulation. everythings fine until the water gets into a crimped splice, then it's intermittent. but when they're soldered, they keep on working, until the wire snaps at least.
Seconding this; back when I worked in electronics, we'd use a soldered splice to haul cables through armoured conduit. Literally haul them; we'd clamp the conduit to a workbench, run a few wires through it, solder them to the end of the cable, and pull. It took two or three people hauling on them to drag the stuff through, and copious amounts of lubricating oil.
The specs demanded a REALLY tight fit on a thick bundle of cables, and who were we to argue with the government?
Not that it made a difference; they cancelled the project the cables were for, and we all lost our jobs.
And when you gotta fix a whole loom of the harness at one spot, you'd have like 6 or 8 or more butt connectors to wrap up into a ball the size of your fist. Good luck stuffing that taped up baseball sized tumor under the tank/seat/behind the fairing or cover, etc. and forget about threading it through the fender grommet or whatever small hole it used to fit through.
You can actually see in the video that soldered joint didn't break. It was cable itself next to it.
Electrical engineer here. Soldering stranded wire converts it to solid wire, creating a stress riser at the transition. In a high vibration environment such as a vehicle, this results in metal fatigue failures. This can be mitigated by using heat shrink over the soldered connection and a longer piece of heat shrink over that to minimize flexing at the joint, and by cable tying the wire as close as possible to the joint to prevent it from vibrating.
A better solution is GOOD (Panduit, Amp, Tyco, etc.) insulated quick disconnect (QD) or other crimped connectors with a GOOD crimper designed for that specific connector. We no longer need to buy the $130 Amp crimpers. I have several of those for different connectors. Taiwan makes some good crimpers that work well but buyer beware. Get one with good reviews. But don't buy cheap Chinese crimp connectors. Pay 2-3X as much for good name brand crimp connectors and you'll have a reliable gas tight crimped connection that won't corrode, and it's faster and easier than soldering.
"Stop cocking up the bris, Rabbi!"...brilliant!😅
Oh that is clever with the logo during the closeout. Great stuff Ryan! Looking forward to your Moto Guzzi review someday soon. Don’t think you’ll lose to much if the company doesn’t like it, lol.
I worked my way through college as a mobile audio installer and automotive electrical troubleshooter. A well done butt splice is indeed quite strong, however the issue is while it may be good when you first make the splice, over time with vibration it can work loose. I've seen quite a few butt splices fail, some were just done wrong for sure, but many were fine and just failed. I prefer to solder when I can but will use the occasional butt splice...
Ryan F9 is back with the innuendoes!!!😂😂😂😂
Looking for a volunteer counter 😂
He never left!
Wow. Love all of this. Ten things that I’d never use but I can buy my dad for Christmas and he’ll think are amazing. Brilliant. !!
Long time ago worked with military radars. Educated how to solder properly. A well made soldered connection will work for more than the lifetime of the device, even in a hostile environment. Also have soldered connections on pre WW2 bikes still no failures. But much faster to make a correct crimping. And much easier to learn.
I walked in to my local second hand tool shop one day. There in the 10mm bin was one shiny 10mm. SNAP ON!! I Yoinked it. Paid the $2 and left. Now I know what winning a million dollars feels like
Yeah but where is it now?? T-T
The crimpers you used at 2:40 are also used for coated connectors, and do a much better job due to length of handles and being on the other side of the pivot point. The coated connectors go in the dip behind the nipple for uncoated (closer to your hand)
You have some of the most informative, entertaining, and just best done videos I have seen on UA-cam! (and I spend far too much time on here...)
The impact screwdriver saved my project quite literally a few months ago. I was rebuilding a rack of seized carbs and stripping every single screw, every single time, even with proper JIS bits. One whack to each screw, the whole thing was down in 5 minutes. I can't recommend an impact screwdriver enough. Cheap too.
2:48 That's not supposed to do that. Either the crimping force was too low, or, far more likely, it's simply not crimped by the right die - something that appears to be *distressingly* common as the bare-metal half-moon dies are used on them, and which CANNOT crimp them properly and will fall off just like the video! Look for prismatic or press dies. Automatic crimpers will even do both crimps for you - the contact and the strain relief - with no extra hassle.
Vessel makes a JIS impact screwdriver. Double duty: a proper screwdriver for JIS screws and an impact driver for when the going gets tough.
Yes, Ryan showed this to us some years ago....I went I bought a large & small one....love them!
dis that old school FortNine we all love. Welcome back
When I worked for a major dealer in Alabama we used chain hoists in all assemblies that needed picked up. Most bikes need the front tire put on in assembly, and most ATVs need tires and shocks put on. Chain hoists are great.
For the wire stripper, spend a little extra for a decent brand. Bought a cheap unbranded pair and the grabber head is slow to bite down and doesn't have much holding force for smaller wires.
been doing all of these for a LONG time. Glad to see that others can get this recommendation as well.
I've got a chain hoist, but mine hold the tires for my truck (winter and summer sets of 5) up in the roof of my shed. In my garage, I have the cheap cable winch for a trailer from Harbor Fright. I put two cables on it that go to snatch blocks, and as my main bike is an ST1100 Honda (model of 1991), I hook the cables to the crash bars. The rear, I used a ratchet strap hooked to the rafters and depending on the work, straps on the grab handles, frame, or what have you and have all manner of angle adjusting, as needed. Held the bike up while replacing the final drive, swing arm reconditioning, lowered to swap the fuel pump, lifted high in the front for brake work, and replacing the clutch, Also upgrading the alternator (why it was down and out to begin with) . . . got it back on the road this spring, and promptly lost the motor due to a crash the previous owner had nearly 80,000 miles ago. the radiator rubbed so lightly on the frame it took this long for it to rub through and overheat the works. Slowly transferring the newer bits to the other ST I own.
I got a pair of automatic strippers for my birthday. Never would have guessed they would do fine for motorcycle electrics.
1:40 I use the Jokari Super 4 Plus. Doesn't look as sturdy as the one in the video but works flawlessly for me and was 15€
Cool. My favorite tool is a certified mechanic who gets the job quickly and efficiently. But just in case….. I like to go to the guitar store and ask for clipped off guitar strings. They are perfect for cleaning out carburetor jets and needles.
If only...
@@arjuna190178 sometimes the cheapest way to go isn’t the cheapest. Royal infield cough cough
"certified mechanic who gets the job done" - Hm... considering my bike has been sitting at the dealer since June while they argue with the mfgr over shipping... well, having to get a lawyer involved sucks
I use crimps with integrated heat shrink, so easy to use and a big time saver, plus it’s color coded so you know which size to use (pink blue or yellow)
Creativity coupled with commonsense observation, wit, and a high degree of intelligence is impressively outstanding! Thank you.
Square space got bought out and went private, it's going downhill. probably worth switching sponsors..
That explains why Linus Media Group stopped accepting them as sponsors a while back
@@motoryzen their recent WAN Show highlights is how I found out
Venture capitalist buyouts are the reason so many companies go to shit
It's just a sponsor. There is nothing wrong with cashing in their money, as long as they are not shipping a bad product (yet).
@@MtJochem sponsorship implies that the person advertising it recommends it, at least somewhat, so its important tha F9 be aware that their sponsor could go downhill... Could hurt their own reputation
Love the advertisement/sponsor time. Properly taking some time to use the videos content to show a sponsor makes me watch and not skip. Well done. Going to check out Squarespace now.
You might want to use the right bit for the screwhead. Saves stripped screws.
That's the best wiring explanation I've ever heard😂
Hvac technician here and Ryan just taught me another way to look for electrical shorts with a light bulb. Brilliant 💡never thought of that technique lol would actually work for 24v circuits safely
the chain checker makes a lot of sense if you work in a shop.
No risk of making a mathmatical error and its *slightly* faster, those minor times saves are what keeps a shop running.
For sure! If I checked 30 chains every day I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. ~RF9
I can’t use a ruler to adjust my chain, as I’m not acquainted with any kings queens or other heads of state.
Instead, I use a humble stainless steel rule and do it myself. 😉
entertainment wise pure gold. I don´t care that there is also usefull info "hidden" in the "commercial". thank you. keep them comming, the more the better. or some such.
5:00 Its useless against rodents, they don't fell capsaisin. Its just a thicker layer of chewy stuff.
2:18 you've forgot the: the heat shrinks too close to the soldering point, now it's molten around the wire and can't move anymore
Ah yes, the old "I remembered the thing but still facked it up" tragedy. I've lived that too. ~RF9
glad I'm not the only one...
Top quality link to the headlight bulb. Highly recommend and purchased immediately
I recall back in the '80s having a fuse box tool that not only helped pulling the little "mini" transparent plastic type fuses out, but also had a tester builtin....you just put it against the small exposed metal contacted on the top of each fuse to quickly find a blown one, without needing to pull fuse out of the holder.
@TornadoCAN99 excellent tool, still have one. I would still check out that link
@@partyplatter8543 Are you RickRolling me Man?
@@TornadoCAN99You can also do this with a multitester / VOM set for continuity (diode check) with the ignition off of course.
Manual Impact screw driwer!
Thank you for that, it saved my seezed up carb bolts.
This is just crucial content for better motorcycle servicing. Anything to keep a motorcycle running is important
6:25 BEFORE using the impact driver, take the bit you will use, place it in the screw by itself and give a sharp (put your purse down before you hit it, but don't try to make a new screw head) hit with a smaller hammer. This will shock the threads. As well, if you suspect the fastener has any sort of thread locker on it, warm it up with a butane torch.
8:22 This tool was originally invented by Boeing decades ago. It was rumored to have a use in only ONE application, before a design change negated the usefulness of the tool - still kind of cool. I bought one back in the 1990s to disassemble a particularly valuable wreck, and other than for show and tell, have never used it since. It is a nice way to demostrate how hydraulic piston pumps work.
That AI Ryan 3:52 gave me nightmares.
I just ordered one the Hooked Heat Reflector highlighted in your list. exactly what I needed.
You could also use screw grip, which is a bit like valve grinding paste. Works fantastic. Coupled with impact driver, totally awesome.
Love the Pamela Anderson labelling on the stripper, and the Magic Mike on the old school one.
Very clever...you are too good...fun to watch
No video will give you the satisfaction of what an ultrasonic cleaner can do until you've owned one. A few tips I have learned:
Always buy one bigger than you think you'll need, you will thank yourself later.
Ultrasonic cleaners with a water/(concentrated) degreaser mix will break down most anything up to baked on carbon... and even then, you might get it loose enough to scrape off.
Make sure you're pre-heating your machine, get it nice and hot before you begin.
Finally, if you don't want to waste your precious chemicals in the ultrasonic cleaner's tub when all you have is a small handful of screws, purchase various sizes of mason jars (or whatever equivalent glass jar with screw on lids) and fill those with your cleaner mix and your items to clean and fill the tub of the machine with just water. Why mason jars and not plastic containers? Glass transmits the ultrasonic waves through its surface, plastic will absorb the waves and reduce the effectiveness of the machine. Also, the mason jars are meant to withstand high heat and pressures, ensuring they don't break or come open.
That was awesome! You guys get better every video! Keep up the great work.
You guys are approaching peak Bill Nye and I am ducking here for it
this is pure gold. each of those items could have had a full video dedicated to them
2:20 Liquid electrical tape is a thing. I recommend adding electrical tape after the liquid electrical tape dries, it is flexible and needs support but it's waterproof, which complements the strengths and weakness of tape.
Nice gridfinity box there @2:09
There isn't a universe where I will ever be without an impact-rated right angle driver again. I have a Kreg one (bought for pocket screw woodworking joinery), but Dewalt and others make them. I use mine every time I'm working on a vehicle. So handy, and I've used mine loads, and it shows no signs of wear.
A.I. Ryan looked like a surprised school photo with the uniform photoshopped out 😂
When I got my first motorcycle in 1968, I got an impact screwdriver and metric socket set to work on it. They are still used to work on my Goldwing today.
That soldering/shrink tube sequence: I feel called out.
Re: Hoist. I have a two post car lift. (Best $2k ever spent.) I angle the arms in a bit, put an old 4x4 across them running under the bike, lift carefully. Surprisingly stable for my bikes. Very quick and easy. You don't even have to retract the kickstand. Careful location of the 4x4 just ahead or behind the CG lifts the front or the back of the bike.
6:35 -- Don't forget that Japanese bikes don't use Phillips screws -- before moving over to hex or Torx, they used JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screws. The damage to your Suzuki Scruzukis is done because the Phillips is designed to cam out of the screw. JIS doesn't do this, and JIS screws are thus made to transfer more of the force into the fastener. Using a Phillips driver on a JIS screw, all of the force goes to one small part of the fastener, encouraging damage.
In fact, you want to find an old, made in Japan impact tool, which usually came with a couple of different sizes of JIS bit. Failing that, a JIS bit in an electric impact tool also works just fine.
most time saver for me :
1) good quality toolset (högert)
2) magnetic thing to get what fell into the tiniest nook
3) vice wrench
Glad to see someone else advocating for butt splices. Always and forever a better option than soldering when it can be done properly. Horse power academy has been saying that for years. All the highest forms of Motorsport use butt splices instead of soldering. No heat means you don’t weaken the wire, when you don’t weaken the wire it doesn’t eventually break at the edge of the solder from vibrations and being yanked around. Just invest in proper butt splices and crimp tools, do a little practicing and jobs a good’un.
Those strippers are SO worth it. If you're ever doing wiring, YOU NEED ONE. I have so much regret for the time I lived without it.
I much prefer Vim tools DD2 for tight spaces. It fits into very small spaces, works with bits and 1/4" sockets. You can also throw it in your edc tool kit as the smallest ratchet you will ever carry.
The DD2/3 are such useful tools for oddly placed fasteners, honestly a tool design that should be more common. VIM has some of the coolest odd tools that I haven't seen manufacturers pick up on.
I've been wanting to pick up VIM's Nora wrenches for when fasteners don't have enough head room for a standard socket and ratchet to fit on to, and where pass-through ratchet sets with extra-shallow sockets are a rarity. I also want to find some crowsfeet with a perpendicular outlet similar to the Noras for the same reason, combine the two and add a simple bar with square drives at each end you can basically build your own spanners and declutter the toolbox; with the proper ecosystem (same fastener to drive offsets) you could even have a torque wrench handle and clear out yet another tool and probably clear out your socket set as well. I just wish the Noras came as a locking flex head or had a solid head variant, as useful as flex heads are I just find that any appreciable amount of torque, breaking and speccing on larger fasteners, loves to make flex heads slip off of fasteners due to the off-angle forces.
Ryan as always top notch production. By the by it looks like your success is going to your midsection.
Impact screwdriver! Must have now!
An automatic cable stripper is so amazing. So worth the price
I used to be a huge fan of butt connectors, but ever since I was taught how to properly solder, I use the union splice every time. This way I know it will be good forever.
Mechanics don’t watch past 9:47, it’s a Halloween nightmare.
Cut the cable, point it towards yourself, close the stripping tool and put it over the end of the cable, You will now see exactly which size you need.
If your wiring has 29 kilos of tension on it, you just need to tell my brother to stop wiring up your bike.
Love the chain hoist, I've been using one to take wheels off motorcycles for 20 years.
EDIT: I just wanted to add, this channel has saved me so much time, money, and probably my life at least once.
Might want to add that impact drivers can be set to tighten or looser by rotating the head. They don't work well in the wrong mode. Fun video as always ;D
I already knew the tip about hanging a bike up to work on it; Trevor Pritchett over on the Mopboyz channel has been hanging up his scooters to work on them for a while now; it makes certain tasks way easier. He doesn't even use a chain hoist, as good quality ropes are usually enough to do the job with a scooter or smaller bike. It works so well I've been doing it myself on a few projects. Of course, you also failed to mention the humble milk crate; My brother has employed them for years when working on motocross bikes, as well as using them as step stools when working on cars, or as a place to sit next to a bike at just the right height to remove that exhaust or carb, or do valve tappet adjustment comfortably. In the case of a scooter, it could also be used for cheap extra storage for the rear rack. You can usually get milk crates for free if you know where to look; I always have a stash of them, not the flimsy store-bought ones mind you, the quality ones used by grocery stores and dairy farms... Accept no substitute!
I bought an Impact Screwdriver when I owned my Honda '83 V45 Magna. Did you know you can get extended bits for the Impact? Really helps when the wide impact screwdriver won't reach the screw.
The shade tree mechanic version of a chain hoist is the 1500 pound NRS cam buckle strap (accept no substitutes). One or two of these straps can be used to hoist the front or back of a motorcycle using a stout tree limb, garage rafters, etc. The cam buckle locks so the bike doesn't fall if you let go. Using two straps on the handlebars means maybe 100 pounds in each strap, but the strap is doubled into a loop so that's only 50 pounds in each piece of webbing. It's surprisingly quick and easy to hoist even a heavy bike this way, the straps are cheap, and they're light enough that I pack them on the bike in case I need to do major repairs when traveling. They're also great to solo lift an ADV bike, and are particularly useful combined with 100 feet of 550 pound test paracord and a small pulley attached to the bike to get a 2:1 mechanical advantage. I use the same straps to hang my hammock when moto camping so I'm already carrying them. A 20 foot strap can also be used to tow a bike, and straps are very handy if you need to chuck your bike in the back of someone's pickup truck.
As a prior industrial electrician, this video made me happy
Self adjusting wire strippers are one of my favorite tools.
The writing in these videos is so good
I bought a nice Hako soldering station with temp control, I will always solder if that is an option. Quick connects/splices might be easier now but cause issues down the line.
Good tips, Ryan. Danke mucho, monsieur.