Russ between your posts / the amazing index document and the fellows on RDWorks Lab Forum I finally managed to get a 2nd hand machine cutting again .. Was at my wits end. Truly appreciate the time spent to share your journey , all else get to stand on the backs of your knowledge ,.
Hi Zamfir Thanks for the files I have copied them to my help file should others need them. I bet this episode taught you a lot about your machine? I appreciate the feedback Call if you need me Best wishes Russ
Russ, you're the man!! watched 80% of your vids and now well on my way to being a master with this type of machine.. :D Interesting video this looks like I can alter my machines head speed vs what it was sent as going by your settings...
This guy is a legend!!! Figured out my own config based on this legend after multiple weeks of reading the chinglish manual and getting no where…I owe you a beer mate!
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, not back in business right now. After uploaded your files downloaded from the forum, this was the result. The measurments of the machine for a square of 100 mm x 100mm were 6.5 mm each side. I've maneged to change it to a real measurement. But the speed is another problem. Seems like a sleeping beauty:). Starting slow, increasing slow, after that, before finish slowing slow on tha straight line. Like 20/60/20 %. 20 accelerating, 60 keeping the speed, 20 slowing. I'll better got a video. Keep in touch if you want. Thanks for all!
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, seems not all my message is shown here. However, after setting the measurements, the motors steps show something a little bit over 17 instead of 22 as your file does. The cutting speed set at 100 seems to be at most 40. The linear acceleration seems to be like this: for the first 20% of the line, slowly but linear accelerating, keeping speed for 60% of the cutting line, and for the last 20% of the line, slowly decelerating, so the cut isn't regular. I will try to experiment with the speeds. Thank you anyway for all, I will try also to find someone with a fully functional machine to send me this files and if they are working, I'll share them immediately on the forum. Sorry if bad english, I am from Romania. I would like to send you a video or a graphic of it. Best regards
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, some last samaritean on this world send me the files. And my laser is alive again. I'll post the files on the forum to make sure other people can use them. Thanks Russ, you are more than a guru of this machine, hope I can be usefull in the future!
Hi Russ. quick update for you. in the vendor settings enable parameters. enable protect enables the water protection warning. and blower enable is for controlling the air assist with a 24v solenoid connected to the controller.
m.facebook.com/groups/441613082637047?view=permalink&id=739656269499392 cn1 pins 5 and 6. wind and +24v when the is blowing option is set in rdworks it grounds pin 5 on start of the program. that turns on the solenoid
I'll write it up into a pdf when I get the chance. I run my laser from a compressor so it's better to have the air controlled rather than wasting it when the laser isn't doing anything.
Thank you again, Russ, very educational video again. When I get there I'll provide the settings for a 1300x900 and a 900x600 machine -which will be soon upgraded to Ruida from a Leetro controller.
Something I noticed in those settings was the max power for the laser percentage as 99. Since we know that is far too much for our tubes what would happen if we put the max that we know is safe for our tubes in there then save it? What changes when you tell RDWorks 100%? Does the firmware percentage safe guard your tube?
Hi You are obviously digging in the vendor parameters. Your power supply comes with a max output current specification, For a 60 watt power supply this may be 24mA. Different tube manufacturers may recommend slightly different max drive current values but at the end of the day they have no control of dissociation physics, that is all governed by the energy level you impart to the ionized nitrogen when you pass current through it. There are pragmatic supposed safe maximums that have been developed. For a 60 watt tube for example, the value is 22mA . The current allowed to flow through the tube is controlled by the power supply but the value of that current is determined by your specification of % power. When you ask for 0% power there is a 0 voltage signal sent from the controller to the power supply and when you decide to use 100% power that controller signal is 5vdc. This 5v signal is interpreted by the power supply as you wishing to use the full 24mA available. So %power is really the wrong name for this command because it is a linear demand for current flow and not watts as many people think. The watts output from the tube is VERY non linear. Back to your vendor setting. When you have characterized your tube and know for example that 69% is the value that you can program to before exceeding the drive current, you can set that value in the vendor parameters. It is a effectively a current limit sensor because if you call for 100% power in your program it will be ignored and the controller will limit the dc voltage signal so that you cannot exceed the 69% safe current value. Best regards Russ
Hello Russ, Thanks for sharing the video. I am unable to login using RD8888 at vendor settings. Do I need to reset factory parameters using passwords HF8888
Hi Suresh Do NOT load the default factory settings it is very likely there are none and you will mess your machine up . First install an up o date copy of RDWorks or at least a reliable version. The latest versions have extras that are of limited use for you but if you like to go my dropbox link you can download issue 38 wich is nice and bug free.. You will have to uninstall your current version. During the new install it will ask if you wish to load a USB driver. Just plug in a USB memory stick and say yes. It needs a USB device to do that bit of the install. When you have the new version there should be no problem reading the vendor settings if you can get it to recognize RD8888 You need to do this so that you can SAVE the settings to disc. Best wishes Russ www.dropbox.com/sh/ggdeiqi6tcwn245/AAAoWAIc5tylufFQwIAM5ppSa?dl=0
Thanks Abraham I would have spent ages trying to define every user setting so its good to know that detail courtesy of someone else's experimentation. The main purpose of the video was to take the fear away from experimentation with the settings PROVIDED you have some good settings saved. Best regards Russ
Hi Russ Loving your videos and go back and forth and re watch them often. Just happen to be in the middle of re calibrating my machine today as found my squares are not square and circles not round, I can sent the corrected lengths as you have shown but wondering what about allowing for kerf ? (sew as RDworks calls it) The laser cuts on the line so if you have a 100mm square it is going to be 99.9 ish because of kerf so would you then allow for this as well or leave it as is ? My problem is if you do you would then make your inside cut measurements over size (twice kerf) Or should we really be using the cut inside or outside the line function for better accuracy. Maybe I am looing at this all wrong !
If you watch this video (about 14minutes to the end will be of interest) ua-cam.com/video/xDZmuxq5BEM/v-deo.html You will see how inconsequential sew compensation would be . The edge is not straight and the shape is not what you expect. I have run and programmed large metal cutting laser machines where proper kerf (sew) compensation is vital to achieving good sized components. For this Chinese technology I don't bother , all my cuts are "on the line". The sew compensation would never be predictable because if you change the power or speed the cut width/shape will change and if you change the focus height who knows what the result will be. If you do need really accurate fits (for finger joints for example) I always do a trial cut and physically measure the result and then adjust the drawing for those few features that need to be accurate. Just as a foot note in case you still want to try sew., put all your inside cuts on one layer and all your outside cuts on another. You will the have the opportunity to set the sew on each layer to suit. Hope this helps a bit Best wishes Russ
Hi I forgot to mention the odd shapes. That will be nothing to do with calibration and usually all to do with belt tension. If you want to private message me with your email I will send you a test program that will help to define where your problem may be. Best regards Russ
Great vid Russ I noticed at the end of the vid you had mentioned Private messaging you , I couldn't find that feature with in UA-cam. Then I found out that UA-cam has removed that feature. Is there any other way to contact you?
Ah, so it looks like we could set a governor on the power level of the laser in our workshop. One of the settings you showed was to limit the max power of the machine. With our 60W power supply powering our nominally 50W (practically ~42W) laser, we could fix the settings so no one in our workshop could accidentally overdrive the tube.
Hi Steve That does look a possibility although I haven't tried it because I don't always practice what I preach. There are times when I need to do quick experiments in the "forbidden zone". If you find it works the way we think could you let me know and I'll start sending a message on the subject. Many thanks Russ
Hi My issue with machine is the origin. When i move the file \object the software rd works and send the file again it's still cutting on the same spot.
Hi Miguel At the bottom right corner of RDWorks there is a little drop down called POSITION. It should be set to CURRENT by default. When you draw something in RDWorks you will find a small green square at one of the drawing corners. That green square indicates a temporary 0.0 where the program will be written from. That green square is NOT a fixed point. You can move your head around with the arrow keys to somewhere on the machine work area and then press the ORIGIN button on the keypad. This is now where your program will start and finish PROVIDED no part of your program exceeds the table limits. The ORIGIN will remain in that position until you reset it to a different position. In that POSITION drop down there is an option called ABSOLUTE. If you choose this option, then wherever your green square is on the RDWorks drawing, THAT is where your program will run because it now calculates all program coordinates from MACHINE 0,0.and the ORIGIN button will have no effect. Best wishes Russ
Thank you for sharing this mistake with us. As soon as my machine comes, I will read out all parameters and take pictures. Unfortunately, I did not understand that especially with cc8888 because I do not speak English. Are the original parameters stored in "Set Fact Para"?
Hi Do NOT touch CC8888.. our mahine will be working in some reasonable manner when you get it. It is essential that you store THOSE working parameters. To do so go to FILE, VENDOR SETTINGS and use the password RD8888. You must have your PC and machine connected by a USB cable. Now press the READ button and the current settings will be transferred from your machine into RDWorks.. Now press the SAVE button and save the data to an external file on your PC.. Now go to the USER tab (top right. Again press the READ button to upload the current settings ans then SAVE those to an external file. You are now completely safe if ever you mess up the settings accidentally.. Best wishes Russ
I just got my engraver a few months ago everything been great untill today I turn it on and it crashed into face of the box , I was needless to say very excited , it seems My point of zero has moved top left corner , has moved to the middle on it own , I am wonder how to recalculate the point of zero?????
Hi You cannot recalculate 0,0. That is determined by two sensing switches at the end of each axis. Failure of one of these switches is the most likely reason for this problem. There are several ways to check if the switches are working. The easiest is to move your head manually to the front right corner while the machine is turned off. Get a steel object (screwdriver or steel rule), make ssre you know where the two switches are. Turn on your machine and the head will move slowly towards the switches. If you touch your metal object on the switch, one axis should stop moving. Do the same for the other switch. . If you succeed in stopping the head in the middle of the machine then your switches re both working ok. If not then you will have found which switch is not working.. If both swiches are working but your machine still crashes when you press reset, then you will have to reposition that switch so that it senses the head properly. If this does not fix your problem, write again as we may need to speak by email to resolve it. Best wishes Russ
Hi The Ruida controller PWM signal is used for one thing only and that is for stepper motor control. There is setting in the vendor setting called rising edge., This actually refers to the rising or falling edge switching for the stepper motors on each axis. If this is set incorrectly then you will get progressive drift during scanning. If you have a glass tube then it is recommended that you set the PWM to 20K . It will have no effect regardless of whether you choose to control the % power to the HVpower supply with the analog output or the PWM output. The PWM output is just a A to D conversion of the analog output and as soon as it arrives at the HV power supply that digitized signal passes through an RC network to convert it back to a 0 to 5 volt analog signal. Best wishes Russ
I just did the same thing yesterday, I bricked my machine . I purchased a new driver for my U axes and tried setting that up. For one thing the rods in my Rotary device are 1 inch about 25 mm in diameter. I plugged that number in there under size. That was a mistake . First of all my U axes was initially working but mu machine has defaulted back to the Y axes as being the rotary axes driver, so now my Y axes travels only an inch and very slowly and my u axes plugged into the U axes driver does nothing. My x and y were perfect. I wish I didn’t touch them in fact I don’t think I did. Not sure what happened. I have a typical generic Chinese laser 100 Watts, a Ruida controller and my work table is 500 mm x 700 mm Recently I purchased a copy of Lightburn software Made in the USA it’s supposed to replace RD workshop. The single biggest reason myself and now thousands more people are excited about Light burn is that it has the ability to support a CCD camera under the hood. With that, once setup I can hand draw say a picture of a star. Lay that picture on the work table, use Light burn to trace the star, then light burn will cut that star out, or it will Raster or engrave right over that star.
HI Tiare I admit to hating the autofocus system but I have done some videos explaining in detail how to use it, how to set it and how to get benefits from it. It is supposed to make life easy for those that are non technical and just want to push buttons. It's a bit like those stabilizers you had on your first bike.....have you still got them on today? Exactly. Learn how to use the machine and you can take the stabilizers off. It is so much quicker to use the step gauge, as you will see me demonstrating in the videos. This whole auto focus system is seems ill thought out and designed for disaster. This first video was me naively beginning to come to terms with the system. Even at this first exposure you will detect my frustrations. ua-cam.com/video/5gZyOj32dGg/v-deo.html 2 years later I understand the machine and the technology much better and decide to give autofocus a second chance ua-cam.com/video/IDaGEu0ddrE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/ki8bFEAcJG8/v-deo.html You may have to watch these several times to understand the technology but it is worth gaining a real understanding because there is so much an auto focus machine can do WITHOUT the autofocus switch. Best wishes Russ
Does anyone happen to know where the file is that holds the logo you see when you start RDworks V8? Mine current has the company logo where I purchased it. I want to change that...
Just reload the current version of RDWorks from the Ruida website, that is untainted. en.rd-acs.com/down_complex.aspx?fid=n14:14:14&pageindex=2 Best wishes Russ
Very informative! At 28:15 when you change the idle speed to 30, you mention saving that to the machine. Can you tell me how to do that? I don't see a save or a read button without going into the Vendor settings. Again, great video!
Hi You have to go to FILE, VENDOR SETTINGS to access the basic machine control parameters. The password is RD8888. You must have your RDWorks running and your pc connected to your machine (typically with the USB cable). You must then press the READ button to upload the data stored in your machine. You can nthen adjust the data as required but will have no effect until you press the WRITE button to send the new data back to the machine memory.. See ua-cam.com/video/h9NCqTT3Sh8/v-deo.html for a more in depth explanation. Best wishes Russ
I found the problem. Seems the "Laser Work" section was pulled up too high covering up the read/write buttons at the bottom of the USER tab. Thanks very much for the video link. When I saw the buttons exposed in your shot, I knew mine had to be hidden somewhere in there. I purchased the Ruida controller and am building a small diode laser cutter. Your videos have been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Hi Russ I 've reset my machine the after that the size of the beam became too large at the same position as before so what should Iset to resolve this?
Hi Lavakely Your description does not allow me to form a clear picture of your problem. The beam coming from the tube cannot change its diameter and should arrive at the lens almost the same diameter as when it exited the tube. Only after the beam passes through the lens does it start to change size. So what have you reset to cause your problem? Best wishes Russ
Wow... That default. Darn scary. I hate the menus.. Confusing. Need a english version programmed. I converted mine to the ruida. Still need to fine tune. My oem actually tried to help. But again. Language barrier and time difference makes difficult.
dear sr, thanks for your help, this video has expleim me a lot of issues whit my DIY machine. i had some acceleration problems , but i will try your adjustment. thanks for your videos.
After a malfunction of my 50w chinese laser, I've done the same error to get to push the "button of death" hoping it will resolve the error. What a MISTAKE!! :)
Hi Mark At ALL times you are using the laser you must have positive airflow out of the nozzle to make sure your lens does not get fogged. I do a lot of manual pierces and also manual cutting with the keyboard controls so to have the air assist controlled by JUST the program would be a bad move for me. Extending this logic, I cannot see why the" Is Blowing" has a NO option. I have a 38mm lens and my nozzle sits 5mm above the work surface. The NO option on ANY cut or engraving would fog my lens. I can see the merits of using the YES to limit the use of the compressor but I would want a manual over-ride switch as well. I am aware of at least two correspondents that do use this YES function for controlling their fume extraction, mainly because of the noise. hence my reference to this in the video Best regards Russ
thanks a lot for clear information, chineses never great to be clear... What should I do to obtain good size, 100 mm x 100 mm = 170 x 170 on cutting table ??????? Regards, B in Designer
Hi Arbin The video explains better than words . If you start at 12 minutes I have drawn a 40mm square in RDWorks and it actually cuts as a 240mm square. If you go to the Vendor settings and use password RD8888 to access, you can then press READ to upload your current machine settings to RDWorks (via the USB cable) Select the Motor tab and use the button with 3 dots to reset your stepper motor scaling. It's a bit ambiguous with your numberes. Did you draw 100x100mm and cut 170x170mm . Either way the little pop up window allows you to accurately set your stepper motor scaling to cut what you draw. When you have modified the dimensions make sure you press WRITE to send the new data back to the machine. Best wishes Russ
Thank you, I did'nt understood but I found another film (that explain exactly like you but it works for me) Thanks twice, nowI will try to organise my rotary www.bin-france-design.com/
Hi Sorry. I can only supply files for my 5030 machine. If you go to www.rdworkslab.com forum, you can post a request there as there are many that will be able to help. Best wishes Russ
I have recovered fairly well but I cannot figure out the Z table. Does anyone out there happen to have HL 1060 vendor settings that work they can share with me?
Big Question.. ....Do you have an auto focus on your machine? Look in the electrical enclosure and you will see two matching black boxes that are the stepper drivers. If there is a third box. often a different size then you have a Z axis stepper. If there is no third box then forget the Z axis settings because they are not required. Best wishes Russ
@@BigMikeMora Hi One of my machines has a stepper driven Z but I do not have the settings to hand. Add your email to another comment and I will dig up my settings and get them to you tomorrow. Best wishes Russ
Hi Scott I have played with the speed and acceleration factors in USER settings and tubo charged the machine. However, when it tried to do some of the very fine detail work on my card cutting it began to lose steps so I had to remove the turbo and now it goes just "quite fast". Maybe with a bit more tweaking and patience I may be able to tune it a bit better. I am aware that the numbers in the Xand Y vendor speed parameters can be set higher but I have not forced higher speeds via that route. Any further info would be useful Thanks a lot Scott best regards Russ
Hi Start Always happy to help a fellow traveller in trouble. There is no easy way that allows us to communicate via UA-cam. So if you like to contact me with the following private contact form, I will reply and we can carry on by email. forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg Best wishes Russ
Man.....! Chinese must pay the customers for all the effort they have to put in order to make these rubbish to run. And definitely these "machines" are only for experiments and not for business purposes. If you rely on them, you are ruined as a business owner. So unpredictable equipment. I admire your courage but i understand that you take this only as a project with endless problems to solve. As a challenge in other words.
Polis Dimitriadis Out of the box no, but if you follow all Russ's videos then I'd say it would be ok.. but thats a lot of upgrades you need to do.. :) hehe
Exactly. When you run a business and you buy a laser machine to upgrade your services, last thing you want is to be a mechanic in order to make it work. It's like buying a new PC and spend your time to make it able to run. And of course not all have the ability to fix things
Polis Dimitriadis well interestingly enough, I just did this to a machine and now a business wants me to buy one in mod it and give it to them with me doing warranty support on it as its still half the price including my margins vs the same setup in the UK from a local supplier and this machine would have better specs.. so... maybe / maybe not.. think it depends on the business.. But with Russ's videos I think alot of people maybe tempted.. and its china so give it a year and youtube and they will have it good to go ;D
![[07] RuiDa Controller - RD Works - Cut Optimization](/img/n.gif)
Russ between your posts / the amazing index document and the fellows on RDWorks Lab Forum I finally managed to get a 2nd hand machine cutting again .. Was at my wits end. Truly appreciate the time spent to share your journey , all else get to stand on the backs of your knowledge ,.
Russ, thanks for all you're doing, you are laser people's guru, even they don't know!
Hi Zamfir
Thanks for the files I have copied them to my help file should others need them. I bet this episode taught you a lot about your machine? I appreciate the feedback
Call if you need me
Best wishes
Russ
Russ, you're the man!!
watched 80% of your vids and now well on my way to being a master with this type of machine.. :D
Interesting video this looks like I can alter my machines head speed vs what it was sent as going by your settings...
This guy is a legend!!! Figured out my own config based on this legend after multiple weeks of reading the chinglish manual and getting no where…I owe you a beer mate!
Mr. SarbarMultimedia, you are more than an instructor and expert. Thank you very much for your effort to share your knowledege!
Hi Zamfir
Are you back running again?
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, not back in business right now. After uploaded your files downloaded from the forum, this was the result.
The measurments of the machine for a square of 100 mm x 100mm were 6.5 mm each side. I've maneged to change it to a real measurement. But the speed is another problem. Seems like a sleeping beauty:).
Starting slow, increasing slow, after that, before finish slowing slow on tha straight line. Like 20/60/20 %. 20 accelerating, 60 keeping the speed, 20 slowing.
I'll better got a video. Keep in touch if you want.
Thanks for all!
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, seems not all my message is shown here. However, after setting the measurements, the motors steps show something a little bit over 17 instead of 22 as your file does. The cutting speed set at 100 seems to be at most 40. The linear acceleration seems to be like this: for the first 20% of the line, slowly but linear accelerating, keeping speed for 60% of the cutting line, and for the last 20% of the line, slowly decelerating, so the cut isn't regular. I will try to experiment with the speeds. Thank you anyway for all, I will try also to find someone with a fully functional machine to send me this files and if they are working, I'll share them immediately on the forum. Sorry if bad english, I am from Romania. I would like to send you a video or a graphic of it.
Best regards
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, some last samaritean on this world send me the files. And my laser is alive again. I'll post the files on the forum to make sure other people can use them. Thanks Russ, you are more than a guru of this machine, hope I can be usefull in the future!
Hi Russ. quick update for you. in the vendor settings enable parameters. enable protect enables the water protection warning. and blower enable is for controlling the air assist with a 24v solenoid connected to the controller.
ooh thats interesting to know.. any idea which output it comes off?
m.facebook.com/groups/441613082637047?view=permalink&id=739656269499392
cn1 pins 5 and 6. wind and +24v when the is blowing option is set in rdworks it grounds pin 5 on start of the program. that turns on the solenoid
Thanks for that I'll have a look into that save me forgetting to switch it on haha :)
I'll write it up into a pdf when I get the chance. I run my laser from a compressor so it's better to have the air controlled rather than wasting it when the laser isn't doing anything.
sccsuk do you find you get better cut depth using the extra air? or any other benefits?
Thank you again, Russ, very educational video again.
When I get there I'll provide the settings for a 1300x900 and a 900x600 machine -which will be soon upgraded to Ruida from a Leetro controller.
Something I noticed in those settings was the max power for the laser percentage as 99. Since we know that is far too much for our tubes what would happen if we put the max that we know is safe for our tubes in there then save it? What changes when you tell RDWorks 100%? Does the firmware percentage safe guard your tube?
Hi You are obviously digging in the vendor parameters.
Your power supply comes with a max output current specification, For a 60 watt power supply this may be 24mA.
Different tube manufacturers may recommend slightly different max drive current values but at the end of the day they have no control of dissociation physics, that is all governed by the energy level you impart to the ionized nitrogen when you pass current through it. There are pragmatic supposed safe maximums that have been developed. For a 60 watt tube for example, the value is 22mA . The current allowed to flow through the tube is controlled by the power supply but the value of that current is determined by your specification of % power. When you ask for 0% power there is a 0 voltage signal sent from the controller to the power supply and when you decide to use 100% power that controller signal is 5vdc. This 5v signal is interpreted by the power supply as you wishing to use the full 24mA available. So %power is really the wrong name for this command because it is a linear demand for current flow and not watts as many people think. The watts output from the tube is VERY non linear.
Back to your vendor setting. When you have characterized your tube and know for example that 69% is the value that you can program to before exceeding the drive current, you can set that value in the vendor parameters. It is a effectively a current limit sensor because if you call for 100% power in your program it will be ignored and the controller will limit the dc voltage signal so that you cannot exceed the 69% safe current value.
Best regards
Russ
Thank you for sharing this information, very professional and appreciated
nice one Russ you will save a lot of tears for some people.
Hello Russ, Thanks for sharing the video. I am unable to login using RD8888 at vendor settings. Do I need to reset factory parameters using passwords HF8888
Hi Suresh
Do NOT load the default factory settings it is very likely there are none and you will mess your machine up . First install an up o date copy of RDWorks or at least a reliable version. The latest versions have extras that are of limited use for you but if you like to go my dropbox link you can download issue 38 wich is nice and bug free.. You will have to uninstall your current version. During the new install it will ask if you wish to load a USB driver. Just plug in a USB memory stick and say yes. It needs a USB device to do that bit of the install.
When you have the new version there should be no problem reading the vendor settings if you can get it to recognize RD8888 You need to do this so that you can SAVE the settings to disc.
Best wishes
Russ
www.dropbox.com/sh/ggdeiqi6tcwn245/AAAoWAIc5tylufFQwIAM5ppSa?dl=0
Idle speed parameter controls the heads speed while not firing the laser. Including cut time. I usually keep it high on my machine to reduce cut time.
Thanks Abraham
I would have spent ages trying to define every user setting so its good to know that detail courtesy of someone else's experimentation. The main purpose of the video was to take the fear away from experimentation with the settings PROVIDED you have some good settings saved.
Best regards
Russ
I ve screwed my machine settings countless times already 😂
the plastic cover still being on the keypad triggers my ocd....must..
.peel.....off....
Hi Russ
Loving your videos and go back and forth and re watch them often.
Just happen to be in the middle of re calibrating my machine today as found my squares are not square and circles not round, I can sent the corrected lengths as you have shown but wondering what about allowing for kerf ? (sew as RDworks calls it)
The laser cuts on the line so if you have a 100mm square it is going to be 99.9 ish because of kerf so would you then allow for this as well or leave it as is ?
My problem is if you do you would then make your inside cut measurements over size (twice kerf)
Or should we really be using the cut inside or outside the line function for better accuracy.
Maybe I am looing at this all wrong !
If you watch this video (about 14minutes to the end will be of interest)
ua-cam.com/video/xDZmuxq5BEM/v-deo.html
You will see how inconsequential sew compensation would be . The edge is not straight and the shape is not what you expect. I have run and programmed large metal cutting laser machines where proper kerf (sew) compensation is vital to achieving good sized components. For this Chinese technology I don't bother , all my cuts are "on the line". The sew compensation would never be predictable because if you change the power or speed the cut width/shape will change and if you change the focus height who knows what the result will be. If you do need really accurate fits (for finger joints for example) I always do a trial cut and physically measure the result and then adjust the drawing for those few features that need to be accurate.
Just as a foot note in case you still want to try sew., put all your inside cuts on one layer and all your outside cuts on another. You will the have the opportunity to set the sew on each layer to suit.
Hope this helps a bit
Best wishes
Russ
Hi
I forgot to mention the odd shapes. That will be nothing to do with calibration and usually all to do with belt tension. If you want to private message me with your email I will send you a test program that will help to define where your problem may be.
Best regards
Russ
Great vid Russ I noticed at the end of the vid you had mentioned Private messaging you , I couldn't find that feature with in UA-cam. Then I found out that UA-cam has removed that feature. Is there any other way to contact you?
Hi Jules
Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will reply and also delete your comment.
Best wishes
Russ
hello ross i want to know what is the temperature of the water that i have to stop the machine in the absence of water chiller thanks for Avence
Ah, so it looks like we could set a governor on the power level of the laser in our workshop. One of the settings you showed was to limit the max power of the machine. With our 60W power supply powering our nominally 50W (practically ~42W) laser, we could fix the settings so no one in our workshop could accidentally overdrive the tube.
Hi Steve
That does look a possibility although I haven't tried it because I don't always practice what I preach. There are times when I need to do quick experiments in the "forbidden zone". If you find it works the way we think could you let me know and I'll start sending a message on the subject.
Many thanks
Russ
Hi
My issue with machine is the origin. When i move the file \object the software rd works and send the file again it's still cutting on the same spot.
Hi Miguel
At the bottom right corner of RDWorks there is a little drop down called POSITION. It should be set to CURRENT by default. When you draw something in RDWorks you will find a small green square at one of the drawing corners. That green square indicates a temporary 0.0 where the program will be written from. That green square is NOT a fixed point. You can move your head around with the arrow keys to somewhere on the machine work area and then press the ORIGIN button on the keypad. This is now where your program will start and finish PROVIDED no part of your program exceeds the table limits. The ORIGIN will remain in that position until you reset it to a different position.
In that POSITION drop down there is an option called ABSOLUTE. If you choose this option, then wherever your green square is on the RDWorks drawing, THAT is where your program will run because it now calculates all program coordinates from MACHINE 0,0.and the ORIGIN button will have no effect.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia I really appreciate I will try that today and let you know how it went. Thanks blessings to you.
Hi, anyone here have a 50w chinese laser fully functionaly to share with us the RDUSET and RDVSET files? Thanks a lot
Thank you for sharing this mistake with us. As soon as my machine comes, I will read out all parameters and take pictures.
Unfortunately, I did not understand that especially with cc8888 because I do not speak English.
Are the original parameters stored in "Set Fact Para"?
Hi
Do NOT touch CC8888.. our mahine will be working in some reasonable manner when you get it. It is essential that you store THOSE working parameters. To do so go to FILE, VENDOR SETTINGS and use the password RD8888. You must have your PC and machine connected by a USB cable. Now press the READ button and the current settings will be transferred from your machine into RDWorks.. Now press the SAVE button and save the data to an external file on your PC.. Now go to the USER tab (top right. Again press the READ button to upload the current settings ans then SAVE those to an external file. You are now completely safe if ever you mess up the settings accidentally..
Best wishes
Russ
I just got my engraver a few months ago everything been great untill today I turn it on and it crashed into face of the box , I was needless to say very excited , it seems My point of zero has moved top left corner , has moved to the middle on it own , I am wonder how to recalculate the point of zero?????
Hi
You cannot recalculate 0,0. That is determined by two sensing switches at the end of each axis. Failure of one of these switches is the most likely reason for this problem. There are several ways to check if the switches are working. The easiest is to move your head manually to the front right corner while the machine is turned off. Get a steel object (screwdriver or steel rule), make ssre you know where the two switches are. Turn on your machine and the head will move slowly towards the switches. If you touch your metal object on the switch, one axis should stop moving. Do the same for the other switch. . If you succeed in stopping the head in the middle of the machine then your switches re both working ok. If not then you will have found which switch is not working.. If both swiches are working but your machine still crashes when you press reset, then you will have to reposition that switch so that it senses the head properly. If this does not fix your problem, write again as we may need to speak by email to resolve it.
Best wishes
Russ
When i changed my controller. I got all to work. But the machine would loose timing over time. Pwm enable fixed it.
Hi
The Ruida controller PWM signal is used for one thing only and that is for stepper motor control. There is setting in the vendor setting called rising edge., This actually refers to the rising or falling edge switching for the stepper motors on each axis. If this is set incorrectly then you will get progressive drift during scanning.
If you have a glass tube then it is recommended that you set the PWM to 20K . It will have no effect regardless of whether you choose to control the % power to the HVpower supply with the analog output or the PWM output. The PWM output is just a A to D conversion of the analog output and as soon as it arrives at the HV power supply that digitized signal passes through an RC network to convert it back to a 0 to 5 volt analog signal.
Best wishes
Russ
I just did the same thing yesterday, I bricked my machine . I purchased a new driver for my U axes and tried setting that up. For one thing the rods in my Rotary device are 1 inch about 25 mm in diameter. I plugged that number in there under size. That was a mistake . First of all my U axes was initially working but mu machine has defaulted back to the Y axes as being the rotary axes driver, so now my Y axes travels only an inch and very slowly and my u axes plugged into the U axes driver does nothing. My x and y were perfect. I wish I didn’t touch them in fact I don’t think I did. Not sure what happened.
I have a typical generic Chinese laser 100 Watts, a Ruida controller and my work table is 500 mm x 700 mm
Recently I purchased a copy of Lightburn software Made in the USA it’s supposed to replace RD workshop. The single biggest reason myself and now thousands more people are excited about Light burn is that it has the ability to support a CCD camera under the hood. With that, once setup I can hand draw say a picture of a star. Lay that picture on the work table, use Light burn to trace the star, then light burn will cut that star out, or it will Raster or engrave right over that star.
Hi, I have a problem with my machine when making cuts. Is it outdated to me?
Hi Sergio
I will be pleased to help you but I need much more information about your problem
Best wishes
Russ
You are amazing, mahalo! 🤙🏾❤️. Can you make a vid on resetting the auto focus parameters? Blessings to you
HI Tiare
I admit to hating the autofocus system but I have done some videos explaining in detail how to use it, how to set it and how to get benefits from it. It is supposed to make life easy for those that are non technical and just want to push buttons. It's a bit like those stabilizers you had on your first bike.....have you still got them on today? Exactly. Learn how to use the machine and you can take the stabilizers off. It is so much quicker to use the step gauge, as you will see me demonstrating in the videos. This whole auto focus system is seems ill thought out and designed for disaster.
This first video was me naively beginning to come to terms with the system. Even at this first exposure you will detect my frustrations.
ua-cam.com/video/5gZyOj32dGg/v-deo.html
2 years later I understand the machine and the technology much better and decide to give autofocus a second chance
ua-cam.com/video/IDaGEu0ddrE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ki8bFEAcJG8/v-deo.html
You may have to watch these several times to understand the technology but it is worth gaining a real understanding because there is so much an auto focus machine can do WITHOUT the autofocus switch.
Best wishes
Russ
Does anyone happen to know where the file is that holds the logo you see when you start RDworks V8? Mine current has the company logo where I purchased it. I want to change that...
Just reload the current version of RDWorks from the Ruida website, that is untainted.
en.rd-acs.com/down_complex.aspx?fid=n14:14:14&pageindex=2
Best wishes
Russ
Thank You Russ!
Very informative! At 28:15 when you change the idle speed to 30, you mention saving that to the machine. Can you tell me how to do that? I don't see a save or a read button without going into the Vendor settings. Again, great video!
Hi
You have to go to FILE, VENDOR SETTINGS to access the basic machine control parameters. The password is RD8888. You must have your RDWorks running and your pc connected to your machine (typically with the USB cable). You must then press the READ button to upload the data stored in your machine. You can nthen adjust the data as required but will have no effect until you press the WRITE button to send the new data back to the machine memory.. See ua-cam.com/video/h9NCqTT3Sh8/v-deo.html for a more in depth explanation.
Best wishes
Russ
I found the problem. Seems the "Laser Work" section was pulled up too high covering up the read/write buttons at the bottom of the USER tab. Thanks very much for the video link. When I saw the buttons exposed in your shot, I knew mine had to be hidden somewhere in there. I purchased the Ruida controller and am building a small diode laser cutter. Your videos have been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Hi Russ
I 've reset my machine the after that the size of the beam became too large at the same position as before so what should Iset to resolve this?
Hi Lavakely
Your description does not allow me to form a clear picture of your problem. The beam coming from the tube cannot change its diameter and should arrive at the lens almost the same diameter as when it exited the tube. Only after the beam passes through the lens does it start to change size. So what have you reset to cause your problem?
Best wishes
Russ
Hi Anas
Reading your question a second time I wonder if you meant that when you draw a 100mm square , it cuts bigger
than 100mm ?
Russ
HI Russ,
i've make a default and factory reset, the two ;
Brilliant, many thanks!
Wow... That default. Darn scary.
I hate the menus.. Confusing. Need a english version programmed.
I converted mine to the ruida. Still need to fine tune.
My oem actually tried to help. But again. Language barrier and time difference makes difficult.
Don't know what to say, but thank You...Russ
salut.Russ...
c est quoi les references des moteurs P P de cette machine....??? je suis en train de m en monte une....merci ...Bon wk
dear sr, thanks for your help, this video has expleim me a lot of issues whit my DIY machine.
i had some acceleration problems , but i will try your adjustment. thanks for your videos.
the plastic cover still being on the keypad triggers my odc
After a malfunction of my 50w chinese laser, I've done the same error to get to push the "button of death" hoping it will resolve the error. What a MISTAKE!! :)
I think your confusing the blower i.e. Big fan and small 1/4" tube. I'm adding a solenoid to mine controlled in CN1
Hi Mark
At ALL times you are using the laser you must have positive airflow out of the nozzle to make sure your lens does not get fogged. I do a lot of manual pierces and also manual cutting with the keyboard controls so to have the air assist controlled by JUST the program would be a bad move for me. Extending this logic, I cannot see why the" Is Blowing" has a NO option. I have a 38mm lens and my nozzle sits 5mm above the work surface. The NO option on ANY cut or engraving would fog my lens. I can see the merits of using the YES to limit the use of the compressor but I would want a manual over-ride switch as well.
I am aware of at least two correspondents that do use this YES function for controlling their fume extraction, mainly because of the noise. hence my reference to this in the video
Best regards
Russ
great video, thanks for sharing
Doing a larger square will give you a more accurate measurement.
thanks a lot for clear information, chineses never great to be clear... What should I do to obtain good size, 100 mm x 100 mm = 170 x 170 on cutting table ??????? Regards, B in Designer
Hi Arbin
The video explains better than words . If you start at 12 minutes I have drawn a 40mm square in RDWorks and it actually cuts as a 240mm square. If you go to the Vendor settings and use password RD8888 to access, you can then press READ to upload your current machine settings to RDWorks (via the USB cable) Select the Motor tab and use the button with 3 dots to reset your stepper motor scaling. It's a bit ambiguous with your numberes. Did you draw 100x100mm and cut 170x170mm . Either way the little pop up window allows you to accurately set your stepper motor scaling to cut what you draw. When you have modified the dimensions make sure you press WRITE to send the new data back to the machine.
Best wishes
Russ
Thank you, I did'nt understood but I found another film (that explain exactly like you but it works for me) Thanks twice, nowI will try to organise my rotary www.bin-france-design.com/
the rdv and rdu setting files below, hope you will find them usefull!!!, they worked for my machine!!!!
Great video Russ thank you.
Great video helped me a lot thanks!!
Please give me a this video for 1390 machine 150w. Thanks.
Hi
Sorry. I can only supply files for my 5030 machine. If you go to www.rdworkslab.com forum, you can post a request there as there are many that will be able to help.
Best wishes
Russ
I have recovered fairly well but I cannot figure out the Z table. Does anyone out there happen to have HL 1060 vendor settings that work they can share with me?
Big Question.. ....Do you have an auto focus on your machine? Look in the electrical enclosure and you will see two matching black boxes that are the stepper drivers. If there is a third box. often a different size then you have a Z axis stepper. If there is no third box then forget the Z axis settings because they are not required.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Yes I have a third...it's slightly larger than the other two.
@@BigMikeMora
Hi
One of my machines has a stepper driven Z but I do not have the settings to hand. Add your email to another comment and I will dig up my settings and get them to you tomorrow.
Best wishes
Russ
Russ did you know that you can speed the head up to 900mm/s
Hi Scott
I have played with the speed and acceleration factors in USER settings and tubo charged the machine. However, when it tried to do some of the very fine detail work on my card cutting it began to lose steps so I had to remove the turbo and now it goes just "quite fast". Maybe with a bit more tweaking and patience I may be able to tune it a bit better. I am aware that the numbers in the Xand Y vendor speed parameters can be set higher but I have not forced higher speeds via that route. Any further info would be useful
Thanks a lot Scott
best regards
Russ
Atleast I think maybe I'm confused. I'm talking about compressed air
muchas gracias
thanks for reviewing this
Thak you for your time I fix my machine whit the video thanks
:) Thank you Russ.
excellent!
Hi need help if you can
Hi Start
Always happy to help a fellow traveller in trouble. There is no easy way that allows us to communicate via UA-cam. So if you like to contact me with the following private contact form, I will reply and we can carry on by email.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Best wishes
Russ
Man.....! Chinese must pay the customers for all the effort they have to put in order to make these rubbish to run. And definitely these "machines" are only for experiments and not for business purposes. If you rely on them, you are ruined as a business owner. So unpredictable equipment. I admire your courage but i understand that you take this only as a project with endless problems to solve. As a challenge in other words.
I dunno if you follow what Russ has done and have a little IT knowledge they are ok..
I do follow all his remarkable effort. But definitely not for business use these machines..
Polis Dimitriadis Out of the box no, but if you follow all Russ's videos then I'd say it would be ok.. but thats a lot of upgrades you need to do.. :) hehe
Exactly. When you run a business and you buy a laser machine to upgrade your services, last thing you want is to be a mechanic in order to make it work. It's like buying a new PC and spend your time to make it able to run. And of course not all have the ability to fix things
Polis Dimitriadis well interestingly enough, I just did this to a machine and now a business wants me to buy one in mod it and give it to them with me doing warranty support on it as its still half the price including my margins vs the same setup in the UK from a local supplier and this machine would have better specs.. so... maybe / maybe not.. think it depends on the business..
But with Russ's videos I think alot of people maybe tempted.. and its china so give it a year and youtube and they will have it good to go ;D