I really appreciate picking up the tips from you on these builds. You are very helpful that way. I’ve been modeling my whole life and never had someone to show me shortcuts or better ways of doing things. Most of the times I’d follow the instructions and they aren’t usually done by people taking the time to explain the pain saving techniques which will insure a better stronger aircraft in the end.
I really appreciate you watching! You can never know everything, I still learn thing and faster/better ways to do things. I try to explain everything to detail so anyone building new or seasoned can learn from it. I always “over” build and make sure nothing can fail or at least nothing I can control will lol
the canopy did it fit you without problems?I noticed that holes they were decentralized, I moved the esc bracket one hole back and now they are fine. But in this mode i have pinion original 22 and the manual recommends another hole. You have consumed the base of the canopy? maybe it's just because it's new the canopy and I have to wait for it to take the shape. i believe they are the lugs of the support esc that they touch in addition the support under the canopy. tell me what did you do? you mounted the canopy and everything was fine?
I had a problem with the latches not locking and discovered the screws stuck though to far into the cup. I cut them down a little and canopy latched perfectly. But I’ve not a problem with the canopy not fitting. I’ve had one that was a little tight but after a while it loosens up.
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you find the videos helpful! So at first no I did not. I built it per the manual but after two or three flights I noticed the brass kept sliding past and it was annoying so I ended up just gluing it in place with some thin CA
I just use regular 3:1 heat shrink with no glue. The stuff with gluing it is great but it is super hard to get a part and makes it extremely rigid. So I like to use the no glue heat shrink. I buy it on eBay 100 foot roll of it in different sizes, I use 1/4in, 3/8in and 1/2in are the three main sizes that I use on every helicopter build.
Hi, This is Joe and I have the same Helicopter. My question is I'm using the same CL-1208 servos but have a concern about them. With no power one of the 3 servos is very hard to move by hand then other two are so easy i can touch it with my pinky and it moves with no resistance and so nice and smooth. They work fine and everything in operation but concerned why one servo would be so hard to move then it does move and stops again and then i have to apply pressure. Only reason i noticed is that when i unfold the blades i have to hold them or they drop like a rock before i tighten the blade bolt. Can you just touch the servo arms and see what kind of resistance you get and let me know how they feel, very curious. Thank You!
Hello! So I’ve built two SAB with the 1208 cyclic servos. They are both super smooth and easy to move. I would replace that servo or at least pull it apart and make sure there is no bent teeth or maybe there is no grease in the servo? Could caused the servo to run hot and burn up. They should be smooth and free moving by hand when not powered up. Pour the linkage off and just move the servo and see if it is still tight. That will eliminate if it is the servo or linkage.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thanks so much! I guess my minor crashed caused this. But wasn't sure if the two that were so smooth were the ones affected by the crash so wanted to rule out that they are normally super smooth. Weird though under power all super smooth with no signs of broken gears.
@@monicafranzo9378 you’re welcome! So I’ve had other servos do that in a crash. What happens is the teeth will get bent and create a hard spot or feel tight. So I would replace gear set just to be safe. It may never create a problem but it can and servos on the helicopter are very important LOL
hey, i just tried to plug in my ikon 2 with a usb to my computer to try and set it up, a message popped up to update the driver or something like that so i said yes, then i got some error type of message saying the fbl wouldn't let me fly and was locked until the firmware was reset or something like that. have you ever heard of this and do you know how to fix it? it's brand new and when i plug it in with the micro usb now nothing happens, no lights nothing. :/
So unfortunately this helicopter already went out but I am about to start another build and I will make sure that I do a separate video on both Ikon govern and ESC programming.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Two things came together in a bad way... me pushing harder than I should have and my flying space is way too small and surrounded by tall trees. Not only do I not have the space to run out in any direction (expect up), there is a huge amount of visual clutter to see through all the time. The bad bit is the final impact was in the parking lot. I am at $1000 with just the blades, ESC, and batteries. Yes, it demolished a Hobbywing 200A. The batteries weren't even in it anymore. I am lucky there was not a fire. 90% I'll just order a new kit and turn this airframe into parts.
I really appreciate picking up the tips from you on these builds. You are very helpful that way. I’ve been modeling my whole life and never had someone to show me shortcuts or better ways of doing things. Most of the times I’d follow the instructions and they aren’t usually done by people taking the time to explain the pain saving techniques which will insure a better stronger aircraft in the end.
I really appreciate you watching! You can never know everything, I still learn thing and faster/better ways to do things. I try to explain everything to detail so anyone building new or seasoned can learn from it. I always “over” build and make sure nothing can fail or at least nothing I can control will lol
Great heli build from a great guy who does stuff the right way the first time around great job jeff
I appreciate it buddy! I can’t wait to build the kraken! That is going to be a pleasure to build just like the RAW was!
Thanks for the build. Huge help. Currently flying a Trex 450 but I got the Raw 580 as the next step. I'm also (slowly) working on the Roban 800 Huey
You’re welcome! Glad the videos are helpful! RAW 580 is a amazing model! I want to build a Roban scale heli soon!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 yeah it's an awesome kit. But when they say "experts only" they were not kidding. I'm taking it slow. But lots of learning
the canopy did it fit you without problems?I noticed that holes they were decentralized, I moved the esc bracket one hole back and now they are fine.
But in this mode i have pinion original 22 and the manual recommends another hole.
You have consumed the base of the canopy?
maybe it's just because it's new the canopy and I have to wait for it to take the shape.
i believe they are the lugs of the support esc that they touch in addition the support under the canopy.
tell me what did you do? you mounted the canopy and everything was fine?
I had a problem with the latches not locking and discovered the screws stuck though to far into the cup. I cut them down a little and canopy latched perfectly. But I’ve not a problem with the canopy not fitting. I’ve had one that was a little tight but after a while it loosens up.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I left the canopy mounted for a day and now it's ok
Excellent video. Did you setup the ESC at all or just the throttle curves in the transmitter? Do you need to setup the governor within the ESC at all?
Great build
Thank you!
So did you end up gluing the brass insert pushrod slider? I did not see it say to glue it in the instructions? Thanks for the build vids!
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you find the videos helpful! So at first no I did not. I built it per the manual but after two or three flights I noticed the brass kept sliding past and it was annoying so I ended up just gluing it in place with some thin CA
Building the 580 raw without recording takes how long to build?
Around 6 hours then wiring. If you’re splitting it up into two you can have it done over the weekend.
Very informative! Keep up the great videos 🚁💨💨💪
Thanks buddy! I will do my best!
What heat shrink do you use? I like that it is still semi-flexible when done!
I just use regular 3:1 heat shrink with no glue. The stuff with gluing it is great but it is super hard to get a part and makes it extremely rigid. So I like to use the no glue heat shrink. I buy it on eBay 100 foot roll of it in different sizes, I use 1/4in, 3/8in and 1/2in are the three main sizes that I use on every helicopter build.
Hi,
This is Joe and I have the same Helicopter. My question is I'm using the same CL-1208 servos but have a concern about them. With no power one of the 3 servos is very hard to move by hand then other two are so easy i can touch it with my pinky and it moves with no resistance and so nice and smooth. They work fine and everything in operation but concerned why one servo would be so hard to move then it does move and stops again and then i have to apply pressure. Only reason i noticed is that when i unfold the blades i have to hold them or they drop like a rock before i tighten the blade bolt. Can you just touch the servo arms and see what kind of resistance you get and let me know how they feel, very curious.
Thank You!
Hello! So I’ve built two SAB with the 1208 cyclic servos. They are both super smooth and easy to move. I would replace that servo or at least pull it apart and make sure there is no bent teeth or maybe there is no grease in the servo? Could caused the servo to run hot and burn up. They should be smooth and free moving by hand when not powered up. Pour the linkage off and just move the servo and see if it is still tight. That will eliminate if it is the servo or linkage.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thanks so much! I guess my minor crashed caused this. But wasn't sure if the two that were so smooth were the ones affected by the crash so wanted to rule out that they are normally super smooth. Weird though under power all super smooth with no signs of broken gears.
@@monicafranzo9378 you’re welcome! So I’ve had other servos do that in a crash. What happens is the teeth will get bent and create a hard spot or feel tight. So I would replace gear set just to be safe. It may never create a problem but it can and servos on the helicopter are very important LOL
I enjoyed your video, but would really like to see the nitro version.
Thank you, I’m pretty sure they don’t make a nitro RAW 580 but maybe they will! Definitely would be a cool one
@@westhobbiesrc8051 a 580 raw would be awesome like the Kraken 580 nitro, yeah currently only the 700 raw have a nitro version
Best Videos on YT !
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Is the plastic wire tubing included, or has to be bought from Sab?
The plastic wiring tube is incredible
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Yes, looks cool. My question is ' Do you have to buy it, or it is included in the kit?' If so, what is the part No?
@@johnsammut6811 yes it’s included, no idea why it said incredible when I put included lol
On the BRAIN setup there was no Torq servos listed -- or at least not the models in your build -- did you just leave as "Unlisted" ?
Yes left as unlisted and put the servo hz and frequency In manually.
Hello where do you have the thermo sheaths? Would you have a link?
The heat shrink? Just regular heat shrink from anywhere
hey, i just tried to plug in my ikon 2 with a usb to my computer to try and set it up, a message popped up to update the driver or something like that so i said yes, then i got some error type of message saying the fbl wouldn't let me fly and was locked until the firmware was reset or something like that. have you ever heard of this and do you know how to fix it? it's brand new and when i plug it in with the micro usb now nothing happens, no lights nothing. :/
i figured it out, i had to plug it in while shorting the 2 middle pins on the sys/io, incase anyone else has that problem.
5:15 You made a mistake?
Mistake on what?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 The direction of battery guide assembly. It's not the same as mine.
@@BskyRui yes was upside down witch I explain in the video later.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 BTW, It's a very nice video!
@@BskyRui thank you!
Ikon gov programing and esc programing
So unfortunately this helicopter already went out but I am about to start another build and I will make sure that I do a separate video on both Ikon govern and ESC programming.
I had an expensive weekend, brother. My worst crash ever.
That always sucks! Witch one did you crash? My 760X was my most expensive crash at around $1000 total
The Goblin. ESC is destroyed and both batteries. Tail looks good.
I'll start the parts order soon.
@@yzScott the KSE RAW 700? How did that happen?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Two things came together in a bad way... me pushing harder than I should have and my flying space is way too small and surrounded by tall trees.
Not only do I not have the space to run out in any direction (expect up), there is a huge amount of visual clutter to see through all the time.
The bad bit is the final impact was in the parking lot. I am at $1000 with just the blades, ESC, and batteries. Yes, it demolished a Hobbywing 200A. The batteries weren't even in it anymore. I am lucky there was not a fire.
90% I'll just order a new kit and turn this airframe into parts.
I pal would a hobby wing 120amp esc bee good for 3d not smack 3d but 3d lol
Yes! The 120 is a perfect ESC. I’ve built 4 RAW 580s and two Kraken 580s all with Hobbywing 120s and my personal RAW 580 has a Hobbywing 120.
@@westhobbiesrc8051
Is there any benefit at all going to a hobby wing 150 amp?