Why don't I have this option? I have the "Hatch Embroidery Digitizer" and I turned my underlay off. Under "Effects", I only have Feather Edge, Radial / Curve Fill, and Elastic Embossed Fill.
Hello, thank you very much for a great tutorial. I would also like to learn how to make a satin stitch gradient. I saw this embroidery and I really liked it.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a question. I am working with the letter G so the angles of the Tahimi stitch are varied so that they run perpendicular to the outline. In the video you say to change the angle from 15 degrees to zero. What should I do in the case of a curved letter? (The software established the many various angle, not I).
I have a project that contains a round shape that needs a gradient from the center out. Is there a way to do that? It is darker in the center to light outside. I was thinking I would have to shade it freehand, but welcome using a way to make it look better than my freehand shading will.
@John Deer's Embroidery Legacy Very nice. Thank you. Gradients are something I'm working on but haven't quite mastered yet. A couple questions: Instead of redigitizing the gradient area why not use the knife tool a second time at the top of the area and duplicate the middle section? Also why run a run stitch between the two "legs" of the R? I would have run the Orange first. Then switched needles and run one leg, then the red gradient and then the other leg allowing the gradient to get me to the other leg.
My base was a ESA Flexi-Fill font, I’ve found that on detailed shapes can create a mess when “broken apart” and it end up taking me longer to edit than to quickly digitize. The run between the two red bottoms it to keep all three objects stitching from bottom to top and not changing the stitch direction so they start opposing each other. Both would work with such a small design, I’ve become a creature of habit with keeping foundational rules as consistent as possible.
You have such a pleasant voice, I could stay here and listen to you all day🙈
The tutorial was useful too😁😁 thanks a lot🥰
This is just what I need to step up my game.
Thankyou for the excellent tutorial.
Thanks for sharing such lovely tutorials 💯, thanks 😊
Why don't I have this option? I have the "Hatch Embroidery Digitizer" and I turned my underlay off. Under "Effects", I only have Feather Edge, Radial / Curve Fill, and Elastic Embossed Fill.
same here
Hello, thank you very much for a great tutorial. I would also like to learn how to make a satin stitch gradient. I saw this embroidery and I really liked it.
Do you have any specials right now on your software
Nice info John.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a question. I am working with the letter G so the angles of the Tahimi stitch are varied so that they run perpendicular to the outline. In the video you say to change the angle from 15 degrees to zero. What should I do in the case of a curved letter? (The software established the many various angle, not I).
I have a project that contains a round shape that needs a gradient from the center out. Is there a way to do that? It is darker in the center to light outside. I was thinking I would have to shade it freehand, but welcome using a way to make it look better than my freehand shading will.
Why when I try to do closed shape it makes my letters big and awkward?
@John Deer's Embroidery Legacy Very nice. Thank you. Gradients are something I'm working on but haven't quite mastered yet. A couple questions: Instead of redigitizing the gradient area why not use the knife tool a second time at the top of the area and duplicate the middle section? Also why run a run stitch between the two "legs" of the R? I would have run the Orange first. Then switched needles and run one leg, then the red gradient and then the other leg allowing the gradient to get me to the other leg.
My base was a ESA Flexi-Fill font, I’ve found that on detailed shapes can create a mess when “broken apart” and it end up taking me longer to edit than to quickly digitize. The run between the two red bottoms it to keep all three objects stitching from bottom to top and not changing the stitch direction so they start opposing each other. Both would work with such a small design, I’ve become a creature of habit with keeping foundational rules as consistent as possible.
@@EmbroideryLegacy Ahh! Makes sense. Thanks again. :-)
Can use accordion spacing
Good video thanks
❤❤❤
YOU TALK SO FAST....IT IS DIFFICULT TO KEEP UP.