This presenter is the best. Nice man, pleasant voice, and he really knows he shit. He loves to share what he knows, not to pump up his ego, but to emphasize how important what his listeners need to do to succeed.
I hear you talking about R-values and even though you mention about the R of high density foam board you never mention the performance equivalents of 2lb spray foam which serves not only as a thermal barriers but a vapor barrier and if done correctly eliminates air leaks at walls and roofs peaks and uses less space than bulky blown in which then requires venting which is an additional cost. Of course the leaks around windows is highly dependent on using proper products and their installation. The best and most informative presentation I've seen in my experience to date and I've been intensely looking for a year now.
Great topic but the dinging noises are distracting. For future recordings, if the presenter's voice is getting muted out by intermittent beeps, pause the presentation and find a way to turn off the notifications. Thank you.
Hands down...one of the best presentations on YT. Is there a schedule or matrix available to do a manual heat loss calculation with equipment selection?
Both my round things on my heat reads only 46. It's 2 degrees today 12/24/22 windchill -20 It's freezing in here. I have it turned up almost as high as it goes on the wall
Uponor is expensive over the normal pex people ..But its for a reason...I will be doing radiant floor heat as my summer project ( now that I pretend I retired last year) with the 2foot heat plates on 8” centers ..I have a one floor house with 45 joists on 16” centers..each joist is 34 feet long...Ill have a boat load of uponor 1/2” HEpex to run ...Im looking at 3600 feet with say 3 manifolds to supply the floor heat...my neighbor had his attic encapsulated with spray foam ...His attic is actually a big cooler entire floor and ceiling spray foamed ...His house and Attic are within 5 degrees of each other in the dead of Tennessee winter ...I had my attic done as well...Now I need some feed back from the pros...all this tubing I have to run I have to do in a 3foot crawl space in Tn in the summer..My question is can I use 1/2” connectors either uponor or sharkbites unions at each joist to make it Tons easier to run the tubing without restricting the flow in the tubing ..trying to un roll a 300 ft roll of hepex has got to be a nightmare..My heat source will be a 250,000 BTU out put outdoor wood boiler....Any feed back would really be appreciated..
I have a 1628 Sq Ft Pottery studio with 3 - 300 foot 1/2 inch loops ib the slab. this is one zone. thw walls are R 26 Aerated autoclaved concrete. the slab is surrounded with 2 ft deep 2" R-7 foam board. the masons didn't put all the foam board under the slab because the "thought" it would do nogood. I was at work instead of being there to intimidate them. how do I handle the heatloss calculation?
Fantastic video. I've watched this several times as I plan on doing an install in my own home. My heating system utilizes a boiler that heats copper pipes with sections of aluminum fins placed every so often on the pipes. The problem is, these copper pipes are in an air cavity above the ceiling of my main floor (ranch house) so the efficiency is horrible. Thank you for this video!
Why is there no air pocket needed with aluminum plates. That would be great, because we only have 6" deep joists, so we don't have much space for an air pocket. But I would like to understand why that is.
The air pocket is intended to disperse the heat into the air cavity to try to heat the cavity evenly if you do not use aluminum plates to disperse the heat. If you insulated directly onto bare tubing with no plates, the heat from the tubes would push into narrow stripes of heat through the floor above. The air pocket helps prevent this to an extent, but the aluminum plates draw the heat from the tubes and distribute it across the wider surface area of the plates, thus eliminating the need for an air cavity. I'm not a pro by any means and someone may correct me if I'm mistaken, but this is my understanding. The plates are the way to go.
From a thermodynamic efficiency point of view, I wouldn't say "you don't need an air gap with aluminum plates." Heat can only travel through the floor so quickly. The lower the R value, the faster heat can travel through. Even with a low R value of .91 which is a typical .75" sheet of OSB, you still want the most surface area as you can transmitting that heat up into the room. Plates help increase the surface area but they don't maximize it like an air gap will. Foil faced R-19 with the foil side up against the Pex will create a good air gap for you and still allow you to fit R-19 in a 6" space. You don't "need" this type of set up, but it is more efficient and will heat your room more quickly and evenly.
Got a question: Is OSB sub floor acceptable in a Gypcrete/radiant application (radiant above grade)? Concerns with OSB polymers and waxes deteriorating under high temperature and humidity conditions that has caused some floor failure. Cheers, N
This presenter is the best. Nice man, pleasant voice, and he really knows he shit. He loves to share what he knows, not to pump up his ego, but to emphasize how important what his listeners need to do to succeed.
Very useful as I trouble shoot why system in my recently purchased home is not performing well. Thanks for sharing this very informative presentation!
I hear you talking about R-values and even though you mention about the R of high density foam board you never mention the performance equivalents of 2lb spray foam which serves not only as a thermal barriers but a vapor barrier and if done correctly eliminates air leaks at walls and roofs peaks and uses less space than bulky blown in which then requires venting which is an additional cost.
Of course the leaks around windows is highly dependent on using proper products and their installation.
The best and most informative presentation I've seen in my experience to date and I've been intensely looking for a year now.
Great topic but the dinging noises are distracting. For future recordings, if the presenter's voice is getting muted out by intermittent beeps, pause the presentation and find a way to turn off the notifications. Thank you.
Hands down...one of the best presentations on YT. Is there a schedule or matrix available to do a manual heat loss calculation with equipment selection?
Great information. Thanks for putting this together and presenting well.
Thanks for sharing, great presentation!
Perfect presentation, thankyou.
Both my round things on my heat reads only 46. It's 2 degrees today 12/24/22 windchill -20 It's freezing in here. I have it turned up almost as high as it goes on the wall
Phenomenal presentation !
✅
Uponor is expensive over the normal pex people ..But its for a reason...I will be doing radiant floor heat as my summer project ( now that I pretend I retired last year) with the 2foot heat plates on 8” centers ..I have a one floor house with 45 joists on 16” centers..each joist is 34 feet long...Ill have a boat load of uponor 1/2” HEpex to run ...Im looking at 3600 feet with say 3 manifolds to supply the floor heat...my neighbor had his attic encapsulated with spray foam ...His attic is actually a big cooler entire floor and ceiling spray foamed ...His house and Attic are within 5 degrees of each other in the dead of Tennessee winter ...I had my attic done as well...Now I need some feed back from the pros...all this tubing I have to run I have to do in a 3foot crawl space in Tn in the summer..My question is can I use 1/2” connectors either uponor or sharkbites unions at each joist to make it Tons easier to run the tubing without restricting the flow in the tubing ..trying to un roll a 300 ft roll of hepex has got to be a nightmare..My heat source will be a 250,000 BTU out put outdoor wood boiler....Any feed back would really be appreciated..
I have a 1628 Sq Ft Pottery studio with 3 - 300 foot 1/2 inch loops ib the slab. this is one zone. thw walls are R 26 Aerated autoclaved concrete. the slab is surrounded with 2 ft deep 2" R-7 foam board. the masons didn't put all the foam board under the slab because the "thought" it would do nogood. I was at work instead of being there to intimidate them. how do I handle the heatloss calculation?
Could the buffer tank be a solar heated water tank? Could I use a tankless water heater instead of a boiler?
great info. thank you
Good info,thanks
Fantastic video. I've watched this several times as I plan on doing an install in my own home. My heating system utilizes a boiler that heats copper pipes with sections of aluminum fins placed every so often on the pipes. The problem is, these copper pipes are in an air cavity above the ceiling of my main floor (ranch house) so the efficiency is horrible. Thank you for this video!
Wonderful talk
Why is there no air pocket needed with aluminum plates. That would be great, because we only have 6" deep joists, so we don't have much space for an air pocket. But I would like to understand why that is.
The air pocket is intended to disperse the heat into the air cavity to try to heat the cavity evenly if you do not use aluminum plates to disperse the heat. If you insulated directly onto bare tubing with no plates, the heat from the tubes would push into narrow stripes of heat through the floor above. The air pocket helps prevent this to an extent, but the aluminum plates draw the heat from the tubes and distribute it across the wider surface area of the plates, thus eliminating the need for an air cavity. I'm not a pro by any means and someone may correct me if I'm mistaken, but this is my understanding. The plates are the way to go.
From a thermodynamic efficiency point of view, I wouldn't say "you don't need an air gap with aluminum plates." Heat can only travel through the floor so quickly. The lower the R value, the faster heat can travel through. Even with a low R value of .91 which is a typical .75" sheet of OSB, you still want the most surface area as you can transmitting that heat up into the room. Plates help increase the surface area but they don't maximize it like an air gap will. Foil faced R-19 with the foil side up against the Pex will create a good air gap for you and still allow you to fit R-19 in a 6" space. You don't "need" this type of set up, but it is more efficient and will heat your room more quickly and evenly.
@@TinManReloading z
good presentation, funny man.
Got a question:
Is OSB sub floor acceptable in a Gypcrete/radiant application (radiant above grade)?
Concerns with OSB polymers and waxes deteriorating under high temperature and humidity conditions that has caused some floor failure.
Cheers,
N
N