Interesting that (other than WD40!) much of the pro advice is the same as Si's 10 year old bike wash video, even down to the washing up liquid and using the old water bottle and brush for degreaser.
As long as you clean your bike .dry it . I like air compressor for the chain .lube .good to go. I'd say it's not good to wash the bike every time. Especially in summer unless your sweating lots , but definitely the chain. Washing to much kills the paint 😮? What do you think
Don't let a pro mechanic clean my bike 😳. Too liberal with degreaser for my liking. Different story if you don't have to pay to replace degreased bearings.
One really good thing in these videos is they only put "music" on when no-one is talking! Small thing but makes a massive difference to my enjoyment. Alex Dowsett, if you're reading this, please take note and I might watch yours again.
As a bike mechanic I see a lot of damage from washing, especially as nowadays bearings have become thinner and are often more exposed to make room for larger thru axles and all that on bottom brackets and hubs. If you are not a pro and plan on keeping your bike for a few years go easy with the washing, never use pressure hoses, and better remove the rear sprockets if you have to clean them (you don't want degreaser entering the freehub body bearings).
Yea, my bike shop actually advise me unless you were riding in the rain, else just get a piece of cloth, wet the cloth and wipe the bike, that's all, as for the drive train, another piece of dry cloth and toothbrush to clean and re-lube. The mechanic actually told me that lots of bikes were having problem here and there because they were washed with water and cleaning products too often.
@emanuele8226......Another thing I saw that I wouldn't recommend - the carbon wheels seemed to have internal nipples on the spokes. As most wheels these days use alu nipples it's not a good idea to wash them off with a hose [and definitely not a high-pressure hose] as you will get water ingress inside the wheels. This will cause electrolytic/galvanic corrosion to the nipples - which ultimately leads to spoke failures and as consequence possible serious accidents.
I wouldn't be able to take off the rear wheel or the rear sprockets (think that's the cassette). So what would you suggest in that case? Not clean the bike?
With some Silca bikewash products and boiling water to clean the super secret wax of your chain. I'm surprised the at this level of cycling they still use lube
@@chrisjong8412 The key is drivetrain losses. A CLEAN chain with lube will sometimes (depending on the lube) have marginally less losses than a waxed chain BUT that's almost never the case because (as you know) a lubed chain is pretty good at catching dirt and holding on to it. For us non-pro riders, a waxed chain therefore almost always makes sense (that being said I still run lube because I can't be bothered to faff around with white spirit and a crock pot), but if your bike is cleaned by someone else after every stage in a bone dry desert stage race ...
We now need Ollie reacts to this video. Fairy liquid, degreaser in all sorts of unholy places, not removing the chain and cassette to simply submerge them in degreaser (or melt the wax off them), spraying water up the bike, using a sponge and there was even mention of a pressure washer.
It was a good video. Mike was quick but very systematic, very detailed. One question though. What about protecting the brake rotors, calipers and pads, with all this degreaser being applied and water spray going across wheel from cassette to rotor. Seems to be asking for contaminated brakes.
First bike cleaning video I've ever seen on GCN or anywhere in which they talk about *drying* the bike. More detail would have been appreciated but at least it got a mention. Thanks. And I've been watching since before Si's WD-40 video :-)
Always take your rear cassette off before degreasing it. Never get degreaser near your rear wheel hub. Learned that lesson the hard way in the past as always cleaned rear cassette like the guy in the video, which ensured water and degreaser got into the freehub eventually.
So what should I do if I can't take off the cassette and rear wheel? Supposedly you should degrease your drive train frequently. But how do I do that if I also have to wash off the degreaser very well to ensure that nothing remains?
@@luperamos7307 depends on the reason why you cant remove it. If its just about not having the right tools, get them! If its stuck then get an LBS to remove it and replace. If there is any other valid reason why you cant remove the rear cassette, then it all depends how dirty it gets. You can degrease the chain without any degreaser getting onto the cassette by removing the wheel and using a chain keeper. If the cassette isnt covered in mud you can always do a cheats clean by giving it spray of something such as gt85 and then wiping it off with a cloth that will remove surface dirt
@@bladesman7701 GT85 is similar to WD40 I think. So I could just spray that on to degrease, wipe it off and not rinse it off? I just don't feel comfortable taking the rear wheel off bc I have no experience with that. Judging by all the videos here it seems that few people do.
@@luperamos7307yes mate it is similar however learning how to remove and put back on the rear cassette will help you so much. Lots of you tube vids show you how its done and the tools u need. Best of luck mate.
@@luperamos7307oh and using degreaser on your cassette while it is still on the wheel is ok so long as you do it sparingly, hence not everytime you clean your bike.
looks like the pro peloton isn't so big on chain waxing (don't tell Ollie!). I pretty much follow Mike's strategy, except don't remove the wheels after every ride, unless it's been particularly gritty out, and don't degrease the drivetrain because wax (Silca drip-on currently). Always dry the bike before storing it, lovingly, inside the house 🙂
I basically have 3 standards of wash, 1. quick rinse and dry, wheels in, mostly in Summer. 2. Degrease and wash, wheels out, re lube, after nearly all Winter rides. 3. Strip, degrease, thorough wash, wheels out, cassette and crankset off, relube, polish etc. The whole 9 yards.
What I always wondered about: It is generally not recommended to wash a bike with a pressure washer. However, I have never seen somebody say something against compressed air for drying the bike after washing it. Wouldn't compressed air also push water into all the bits an pieces that we don't want water in - bearings and stuff like that? What am I missing?
Great video as always. Just a thought anyone had any bad experiences using washing up liquid on the tyres? It naturally gives off an oily sheen so thought it could become slippy over wet surfaces. Not exactly what you want at 40mph!
I wash my bike chain, pedal tooth, drueller especially its wheel tooth with liquid detergent soap dilluted in water by using toothbrush(medium), brush thoroughly while rotating your pedal until all dirt removes and then wash with spray water until the soap residue remove and clean… let it dry, thoroughly dry… then have a spoonful of crude oil , dip dry toothbrush and apply on chain, drueller tooth, pedal tooth while rotating your pedal by hand.. proceed brushing until you hear that smooth sound, means the oil penetrates inside the chain, pedal and druller wheels… dont use lubricants as it invites much dirt… once your frame dry, rub w clean cotton rug dip little on crude oil to waterproof your frames so as it will not invite dirt or mud and its easier to remove.. for all bolt joints brush it with small amount of crude oil… remember; a spoonful of crude oil is enough for your bike… I’ve been using this scheme for more than 20 years by now..
I feel very vindicated using washing up liquid for my frame in spite of all the advertising of specific (expensive) products for bikes! Didn't Ollie have a video explicitly telling us not to do that? ;)
Theres loads of degreasers out there. My tip is Elbow Grease from Poundland. £2 a bottle lasts for ages. Great for complete strip down cleaning and when used diluted is brill for general degreasing whilst components are on the bike.
Hmmm … car and bike detailers stopped using sponges a long time ago. Too much embedded grit. Soft brushes best. I also use Fairy Liquid for wheels etc. GCNTech, in a previous washy video, were horrified people used that. Assume this chain not waxed. GCNTech also strong wax advocates, I prefer wet lube, applied often on a cleaned chain.
When I was in the bike shop, I remember I bought a bike wash liquid. It was more than 10 or 15 $, But after watching this video I realized that you don't need to spend your money on expensive things. In this video the man said, it just needs to be wash up liquid, so he used Fairy!!! wow I really understand something in my life after watching this video. Just don't buy expensive things and at the end of the month you find yourself not having money to eat something.
Pretty much the same way I wash my bike except I don't use Fairy liquid but a bike cleaner for the frame, and don't take off the wheels unless the bike is caked in grime. Also, I clean my brake rotors every other or third wash with a regular disc brake cleaner, and check that the callipers are nicely centred.
#askgcntech Castelli has been my brand of choice since the '80s. What is the life expectancy of a Chami/Seat-Pad? Last year, I spent over 277 hours in the saddle and 236 hours in 22. If you do not crash, your bibs never seem to wear out, but does the Chami/Seat-Pad?
I really would like to have seen his tips on applying chain lube. I used to apply it like he did in the brief clip you showed, but it was excessive and made a mess. Given he just washed the bike, I'm sure he has some great tips to share. Instead, I've been doing it lately like some other videos have shown: a drop on each link. Takes more time but generally less messy. I'd love to do it faster.
Hi, thanks for the comment. This is a tricky one, because the bikes are washed daily, the mechanics quite often aren't that bothered by any mess being caused, as they will be washing them again within 24hrs 🪣 Certainly though, to keep it nice and clean, you need to carry on following our tips of applying it to each link, or, do as Ollie would do, WAX! Hope it helps?
Don't wash it like a pro bike mechanic. They have a literal truck of spares if case something gets water damaged. Disassembly, clean, dry put back together.
The real question is how and when to wash and lube your daily ride that collects all the dirt and salt and everything else throughout the year. Certainly not going to spend 30min each day doing all this on a
I guess this works, hosing the drivetrain, if its riden daily. When you get it that wet, new lube or not, best dry it with compressed air, or you'll find a rusty frozen chain a week later, to us weekend users. Just tear it down and clean it proper every 500 or so miles, if needed, based on conditions. Doesn't take that long. I get about 2000 miles out a PC1130.
Washing advice great, obviously, but it would have been complete han he shown us how to properly lube and/or grease all the parts--including the derailleur joints.
@@dbk81 Those stands are no move expensive than most other repair stands. What is very attractive about those stands are no clamping of seat tubes. In this pro tour level, that means no accidental breaking of very expensive carbon fiber parts. The only thing you can’t do with that type of stand is check the front brakes. Everything else is now 200% easier.
@@JMcLeodKC711I got to use a much better dropout-style workstand in my previous workplace and it really is useful for bikes with sensitive seatposts, the kind that is so thin-walled you can't clamp them. Bleeding however, is more cumbersome as I need to come up with another way to tilt the bike to guide trapped air bubbles upwards. Bike orientation rotation is the reason why I still prefer clamp-style workstands, most bikes I work on have clamp-friendly seatposts anyway. My own bike(s)? Never was an issue, I'll never use über lightweight seatposts I can't clamp onto workstands.
I had a small panic attack when he said "water bottle holder" at 2:51 in the most British way possible 😅 Us non-natives can struggle with deciphering that combo 😄 Also, regarding the procedure itself: 1. You can see wear on through-axle from chain-rub. I'd avoid running the chain over it. Pro can do it, cause they'll just replace the whole bike every now and then. 2. It's better to spray the washing solution, than to rub it with a sponge like in this video - depenging on how dirty your bike is, you gonna scratch the coating. For optimum results spray warm solution, let it soak, wash it down. Only then, if there's some stubborn dirt would I use the sponge.
@@dtsybulskyi I'm not so rude - you really shouldn't jump to wrong conclusions or it'll make you look foolish. Nowhere did you mention pronunciation, just "in the most British way possible" which, to me, meant clearly articulated. Try to be clearer when you want to be rude.
You should never use Fairy liquid, it's ultra abrasive and designed to clean plates, which are a far harder surface.. You would be better off using a neutral PH car shampoo, that's designed not to harm any surface.
my issue is I do not have easy access to a hose to rinse... yes I can use the car wash, self serve, but this is annoying to the drivers waiting and I still have to ride back 5k to my flat.. when I see the foamy water over the dirt to get it clean, I have told not to do this as it will stratch your frame, whcich makes sense.
When I don’t have access to a hose, I use two buckets, one with soapy water, one with clean rinse water. I use a large cup to pour the rinse water over the washed bike. It’s a pain lugging big buckets of water from my kitchen but my baby is worth it.
I just moved to Europe and now live in an apartment. After living in house with access to an air compressor and plenty of room to wash my bike how does one do this in an apartment?
What was your favourite tip from this video? 🧼
Interesting that (other than WD40!) much of the pro advice is the same as Si's 10 year old bike wash video, even down to the washing up liquid and using the old water bottle and brush for degreaser.
As long as you clean your bike .dry it . I like air compressor for the chain .lube .good to go.
I'd say it's not good to wash the bike every time. Especially in summer unless your sweating lots , but definitely the chain. Washing to much kills the paint 😮? What do you think
Has to be the water bottle. Easy and effective.
Cleaning the pedals.
Don't let a pro mechanic clean my bike 😳. Too liberal with degreaser for my liking. Different story if you don't have to pay to replace degreased bearings.
I get chills from hearing the chain rattle on that rear axle 🫠
I get thrills!
Yeah you can just get one of these little plastic wheels to put on the rear axle to guide the chain for like 3 euros
I don’t understand why there is one at 4:41 but only on that clip
yeah its terrible!
@@vinc-bccan you link One, please, or identify it?
One really good thing in these videos is they only put "music" on when no-one is talking! Small thing but makes a massive difference to my enjoyment. Alex Dowsett, if you're reading this, please take note and I might watch yours again.
Thanks for the feedback! We work really hard on out edits so it's great to hear that you are enjoying the videos 🙌
Manon is always polite and a good presenter
@sfss1918....she's a bit of a porker too
As a bike mechanic I see a lot of damage from washing, especially as nowadays bearings have become thinner and are often more exposed to make room for larger thru axles and all that on bottom brackets and hubs. If you are not a pro and plan on keeping your bike for a few years go easy with the washing, never use pressure hoses, and better remove the rear sprockets if you have to clean them (you don't want degreaser entering the freehub body bearings).
That's really interesting! Easy on the washing is good idea, keep the bike clean but don't ruin the bearings 😬 - What do you think about chain wax? 👀
Yea, my bike shop actually advise me unless you were riding in the rain, else just get a piece of cloth, wet the cloth and wipe the bike, that's all, as for the drive train, another piece of dry cloth and toothbrush to clean and re-lube. The mechanic actually told me that lots of bikes were having problem here and there because they were washed with water and cleaning products too often.
@emanuele8226......Another thing I saw that I wouldn't recommend - the carbon wheels seemed to have internal nipples on the spokes. As most wheels these days use alu nipples it's not a good idea to wash them off with a hose [and definitely not a high-pressure hose] as you will get water ingress inside the wheels.
This will cause electrolytic/galvanic corrosion to the nipples - which ultimately leads to spoke failures and as consequence possible serious accidents.
I wouldn't be able to take off the rear wheel or the rear sprockets (think that's the cassette). So what would you suggest in that case? Not clean the bike?
Spot on!
Next video: “Why you shouldn’t wash your bike like a pro mechanic”
It's a great idea! 💡
With some Silca bikewash products and boiling water to clean the super secret wax of your chain. I'm surprised the at this level of cycling they still use lube
@@chrisjong8412 I also use wax, but they have to use what they are sponsored by, they probably also use wax but can't tell it on camera!
They are running out of ideas
@@chrisjong8412 The key is drivetrain losses. A CLEAN chain with lube will sometimes (depending on the lube) have marginally less losses than a waxed chain BUT that's almost never the case because (as you know) a lubed chain is pretty good at catching dirt and holding on to it. For us non-pro riders, a waxed chain therefore almost always makes sense (that being said I still run lube because I can't be bothered to faff around with white spirit and a crock pot), but if your bike is cleaned by someone else after every stage in a bone dry desert stage race ...
4:16
Suggest putting something over the thru-axle so it wont get scratched when you rotate and clean your chain
They put a pulley on at 4:41 must have just forgot
We now need Ollie reacts to this video. Fairy liquid, degreaser in all sorts of unholy places, not removing the chain and cassette to simply submerge them in degreaser (or melt the wax off them), spraying water up the bike, using a sponge and there was even mention of a pressure washer.
GCN has done several how to clean your bike, this one is the best of them.😊
Glad you like it!
We're always trying to make out content better 🙌
To wash a bike like pro mechanic you need pink crocs like Mike!
That is a non negotiable 🤣
@@gcntech Are they available at the GNC website?
@@ScubaPhil1not yet
And most importantly, gotta have it in sports mode!
You nailed it 😂
It was a good video. Mike was quick but very systematic, very detailed. One question though. What about protecting the brake rotors, calipers and pads, with all this degreaser being applied and water spray going across wheel from cassette to rotor. Seems to be asking for contaminated brakes.
He did mention this in the video, he cleans everything after the degreasing
Love seeing my bike in videos!
Checked my pulley and it’s gunked up. Never thought about washing that bit. Great video
Dan wanted the chain keeper in the shot, just in case Si is watching! 😄
Hahaha he's mean like that
Nice behind the scenes...a lot of hard work goes into making these riders shine.
If you want to wash a bike like me, just use fairy liquid and scotchbrite. You may need to repaint your bike after 4 or 5 washes though.
Eeeek! This hurt 👀
For me, i cover the metal part near the brush with some cloth tape to avoid any scratches while brushing, just like fellow car detailer do 🙂
First bike cleaning video I've ever seen on GCN or anywhere in which they talk about *drying* the bike. More detail would have been appreciated but at least it got a mention. Thanks. And I've been watching since before Si's WD-40 video :-)
Very interesting video, thanks to Manon and Mike !
Always take your rear cassette off before degreasing it. Never get degreaser near your rear wheel hub. Learned that lesson the hard way in the past as always cleaned rear cassette like the guy in the video, which ensured water and degreaser got into the freehub eventually.
So what should I do if I can't take off the cassette and rear wheel? Supposedly you should degrease your drive train frequently. But how do I do that if I also have to wash off the degreaser very well to ensure that nothing remains?
@@luperamos7307 depends on the reason why you cant remove it. If its just about not having the right tools, get them! If its stuck then get an LBS to remove it and replace. If there is any other valid reason why you cant remove the rear cassette, then it all depends how dirty it gets. You can degrease the chain without any degreaser getting onto the cassette by removing the wheel and using a chain keeper. If the cassette isnt covered in mud you can always do a cheats clean by giving it spray of something such as gt85 and then wiping it off with a cloth that will remove surface dirt
@@bladesman7701 GT85 is similar to WD40 I think. So I could just spray that on to degrease, wipe it off and not rinse it off? I just don't feel comfortable taking the rear wheel off bc I have no experience with that. Judging by all the videos here it seems that few people do.
@@luperamos7307yes mate it is similar however learning how to remove and put back on the rear cassette will help you so much. Lots of you tube vids show you how its done and the tools u need. Best of luck mate.
@@luperamos7307oh and using degreaser on your cassette while it is still on the wheel is ok so long as you do it sparingly, hence not everytime you clean your bike.
looks like the pro peloton isn't so big on chain waxing (don't tell Ollie!). I pretty much follow Mike's strategy, except don't remove the wheels after every ride, unless it's been particularly gritty out, and don't degrease the drivetrain because wax (Silca drip-on currently). Always dry the bike before storing it, lovingly, inside the house 🙂
Silca degreasers are made to not negatively impact wax so if you go with their degreaser you can do the drive train, I believe.
I basically have 3 standards of wash, 1. quick rinse and dry, wheels in, mostly in Summer. 2. Degrease and wash, wheels out, re lube, after nearly all Winter rides. 3. Strip, degrease, thorough wash, wheels out, cassette and crankset off, relube, polish etc. The whole 9 yards.
Sounds like you've got your system down 🙌 How often are you doing the big clean?
@@gcntech moveable feast to be hones, depends on the weather.
What I always wondered about: It is generally not recommended to wash a bike with a pressure washer. However, I have never seen somebody say something against compressed air for drying the bike after washing it. Wouldn't compressed air also push water into all the bits an pieces that we don't want water in - bearings and stuff like that? What am I missing?
What a nice guy! Thanks for the video!
It's always so cool getting access to pro kit and mechanics like this 🙌
Like the paint brush idea.
Genius 💡
Thanks for this. Can you do a video on smart trainer maintenance, if any is necessary. Thanks again!!
Great video as always. Just a thought anyone had any bad experiences using washing up liquid on the tyres? It naturally gives off an oily sheen so thought it could become slippy over wet surfaces. Not exactly what you want at 40mph!
Thank you Manon and Mike. Very informative and looks simple.
Be careful with degreaser around cassette. If it gets into freehub it can corrode components.
Exactly would not use degreaser on my bike. Anything that needs degreaseing it comes off.
Running the chain straight on the thru axle must be healthy in the long run...
Thanks Bannon and Mike
I wash my bike chain, pedal tooth, drueller especially its wheel tooth with liquid detergent soap dilluted in water by using toothbrush(medium), brush thoroughly while rotating your pedal until all dirt removes and then wash with spray water until the soap residue remove and clean… let it dry, thoroughly dry… then have a spoonful of crude oil , dip dry toothbrush and apply on chain, drueller tooth, pedal tooth while rotating your pedal by hand.. proceed brushing until you hear that smooth sound, means the oil penetrates inside the chain, pedal and druller wheels… dont use lubricants as it invites much dirt… once your frame dry, rub w clean cotton rug dip little on crude oil to waterproof your frames so as it will not invite dirt or mud and its easier to remove.. for all bolt joints brush it with small amount of crude oil… remember; a spoonful of crude oil is enough for your bike… I’ve been using this scheme for more than 20 years by now..
Really great video with lots of useful information and a super nice guy.
That's the idea 🙌Hopefully your bike will be sparkling after this one!
Awesome vid, guy really did a good explaining it and he talks like he has always been on camera!
Was great to get to know Mike 🙌
Time for GCN's quarterly bike wash video!
Edit: Muc Off sponsorship is out, dish soap is in ?? 😱
Now hands that clean drivetrains can feel soft as your face
I just took mine to the car wash and sprayed brakleen on all the greasey bits, and relubed the chain and cogs, good enough for me
Good stuff. Nice one Mike.
If you’ve waxed your chain, does degreasing mean you need to dry and completely reapply the wax?
I feel very vindicated using washing up liquid for my frame in spite of all the advertising of specific (expensive) products for bikes! Didn't Ollie have a video explicitly telling us not to do that? ;)
Theres loads of degreasers out there. My tip is Elbow Grease from Poundland. £2 a bottle lasts for ages. Great for complete strip down cleaning and when used diluted is brill for general degreasing whilst components are on the bike.
Hmmm … car and bike detailers stopped using sponges a long time ago. Too much embedded grit. Soft brushes best. I also use Fairy Liquid for wheels etc. GCNTech, in a previous washy video, were horrified people used that. Assume this chain not waxed. GCNTech also strong wax advocates, I prefer wet lube, applied often on a cleaned chain.
Manon remains a baddie
What do you spray on the pedals?
Its funny how every time I watch a how to wash your bike video, they always wash a bike that was clean to begin with.
When I was in the bike shop, I remember I bought a bike wash liquid. It was more than 10 or 15 $, But after watching this video I realized that you don't need to spend your money on expensive things. In this video the man said, it just needs to be wash up liquid, so he used Fairy!!! wow I really understand something in my life after watching this video. Just don't buy expensive things and at the end of the month you find yourself not having money to eat something.
Don't like the thru-axle grinding the chain 😬
Some people are finding it Triggering 👀
Would like to hear how he handles rotors and brake pads….
Pretty much the same way I wash my bike except I don't use Fairy liquid but a bike cleaner for the frame, and don't take off the wheels unless the bike is caked in grime. Also, I clean my brake rotors every other or third wash with a regular disc brake cleaner, and check that the callipers are nicely centred.
Very informative, maam.
#askgcntech Castelli has been my brand of choice since the '80s. What is the life expectancy of a Chami/Seat-Pad? Last year, I spent over 277 hours in the saddle and 236 hours in 22. If you do not crash, your bibs never seem to wear out, but does the Chami/Seat-Pad?
That’s a good question! I would love to hear. Ofcourse the riders weight matters as well.
what's the difference between grease and lubricant. Would you grease the jockey wheels after a clean and lubricant? When would we use grease?
"Washing up liquid"! My favorite part of the vid. I'm American, for better or worse ; )
I really would like to have seen his tips on applying chain lube. I used to apply it like he did in the brief clip you showed, but it was excessive and made a mess. Given he just washed the bike, I'm sure he has some great tips to share. Instead, I've been doing it lately like some other videos have shown: a drop on each link. Takes more time but generally less messy. I'd love to do it faster.
Hi, thanks for the comment. This is a tricky one, because the bikes are washed daily, the mechanics quite often aren't that bothered by any mess being caused, as they will be washing them again within 24hrs 🪣
Certainly though, to keep it nice and clean, you need to carry on following our tips of applying it to each link, or, do as Ollie would do, WAX! Hope it helps?
Don't wash it like a pro bike mechanic. They have a literal truck of spares if case something gets water damaged. Disassembly, clean, dry put back together.
Use an old flat bar grip on the axel
Stops killing your chain edges “for a good shift” 😅
I maybe watched over 10 bike washing clips and I still have dirt on mine.... :(
Thanks. I usually wash my bike in the shower 🚿
I like how one of the suggestions to this video I got a GCN video that says 'do not use washing up liquid'. 🤣
The real question is how and when to wash and lube your daily ride that collects all the dirt and salt and everything else throughout the year. Certainly not going to spend 30min each day doing all this on a
Wash your bike 🚴 This is really a topic we have never seen on GCN! 😅
Just YOLO the WD40 spraying cans too after!
What's different if you wax your chain?
...love the shoes! ;-)
Hi GCN
If this service was sold in a bike shop, how much should it cost ?
Wow! That's a great questions, we think you're better off asking your local shop 🛒
Great video and awesome tips!
Glad you enjoyed it! 🙌Will you be taking some of these points on board?
Soapy Water, Oh Boy! The salts inside the dishwashing liquid, Olli mentioned it in a former video! Don´t do it @ home@@gcntech
Same process with wax chaine?
Good advice but why did you have to fly to the UAE to do it? What is wrong with Bristol?
How does this procedure change if the chain is hot waxed? I think some pros are using waxed chains too. I don’t want to rewax my chain every time.
Wd-40 all the crevasses an crannies after getting wet... Its not for lube its for water displacement/ rust prevention
Thanks for the comment! Is this what you do after cleaning your bike?
I guess this works, hosing the drivetrain, if its riden daily. When you get it that wet, new lube or not, best dry it with compressed air, or you'll find a rusty frozen chain a week later, to us weekend users. Just tear it down and clean it proper every 500 or so miles, if needed, based on conditions. Doesn't take that long. I get about 2000 miles out a PC1130.
Is the mechanic using one single brush for all the degreasing process?
There should be more tips from the team mechanics 👍
Thought it would have been a fresh pre prepared chain for each stage ? Maybe not a muck off sponsored team ?
What is the brand name of the bike stand used in this view?
"How to scratch your wheel axle and allow it to rust"
How do you wash a waxed bike?
We've got this great video on how to maintain you waxed chain 👉 ua-cam.com/video/4VoTLOVw2Dg/v-deo.html
A message to fellow bike rider here. Would you consider paying someone to wash your bike ? And How much would you consider to pay?
Mutch?
@@321bytor *how much would you consider to pay?
Hey, I’m having a little problem with my bike. My stem bolt starches my thighs every time I’m out the saddle, any tips on how to fix this issue??
1:34 mark - Because...disc brakes 🤣
Are you using and prefer a water based degreaser or a spirit based?
Washing advice great, obviously, but it would have been complete han he shown us how to properly lube and/or grease all the parts--including the derailleur joints.
Ummm... I need to know about those platforms. I've never seen that before, and it certainly looks like something that is purposefully done here.
They are a Euro style repair stand. Pricey, but very nice.
I think the original poster is talking about the platform they’re standing on……They allow the water to run off so you’re not standing in mud
@@dbk81 Those stands are no move expensive than most other repair stands. What is very attractive about those stands are no clamping of seat tubes. In this pro tour level, that means no accidental breaking of very expensive carbon fiber parts. The only thing you can’t do with that type of stand is check the front brakes. Everything else is now 200% easier.
@@JMcLeodKC711I got to use a much better dropout-style workstand in my previous workplace and it really is useful for bikes with sensitive seatposts, the kind that is so thin-walled you can't clamp them. Bleeding however, is more cumbersome as I need to come up with another way to tilt the bike to guide trapped air bubbles upwards.
Bike orientation rotation is the reason why I still prefer clamp-style workstands, most bikes I work on have clamp-friendly seatposts anyway. My own bike(s)? Never was an issue, I'll never use über lightweight seatposts I can't clamp onto workstands.
Are those pink Crocs team issue 😂
Please don't run the chain on the soft aluminium thru axle, it's a recipe for future disaster!!!!
Babywipes or floorwipes, been using them since 2009 to clean bike without issue
I just use hand wipes or disinfecting wipes.
I had a small panic attack when he said "water bottle holder" at 2:51 in the most British way possible 😅
Us non-natives can struggle with deciphering that combo 😄
Also, regarding the procedure itself:
1. You can see wear on through-axle from chain-rub. I'd avoid running the chain over it. Pro can do it, cause they'll just replace the whole bike every now and then.
2. It's better to spray the washing solution, than to rub it with a sponge like in this video - depenging on how dirty your bike is, you gonna scratch the coating.
For optimum results spray warm solution, let it soak, wash it down. Only then, if there's some stubborn dirt would I use the sponge.
Hahahah it's a tricky one 🤣
A holder that holds a water bottle? How much more descriptive does it have to be for you to understand. Would "bidon cage" be more obvious?
@@stevemawer848 why are you so rude?
I'm talking about the pronunciation, where British people tend not to pronounce t, d, r letters in some cases.
@@dtsybulskyi I'm not so rude - you really shouldn't jump to wrong conclusions or it'll make you look foolish. Nowhere did you mention pronunciation, just "in the most British way possible" which, to me, meant clearly articulated. Try to be clearer when you want to be rude.
You should never use Fairy liquid, it's ultra abrasive and designed to clean plates, which are a far harder surface.. You would be better off using a neutral PH car shampoo, that's designed not to harm any surface.
Fairy liquid contains salt. Use cheap car shampoo.
Man I open a beer up and wash my bike as a bro
Ollie: fairy liquid 🤯 Si: told you so 😏
my issue is I do not have easy access to a hose to rinse... yes I can use the car wash, self serve, but this is annoying to the drivers waiting and I still have to ride back 5k to my flat.. when I see the foamy water over the dirt to get it clean, I have told not to do this as it will stratch your frame, whcich makes sense.
When I don’t have access to a hose, I use two buckets, one with soapy water, one with clean rinse water. I use a large cup to pour the rinse water over the washed bike. It’s a pain lugging big buckets of water from my kitchen but my baby is worth it.
Yeah, man. We do really need a wo'oh bo'oh 2:50.
I'm kind of surprised they bother washing and lubing the chain, I thought they would probably just use a new one for each race.
The pink crocs 😮😂
I prefer to wash my bike like a pro cyclist and have someone else do it
Best way to do it
I just moved to Europe and now live in an apartment. After living in house with access to an air compressor and plenty of room to wash my bike how does one do this in an apartment?
How many times we have to learn how to wash bike🤔
Muc-Off CEO literally shaking rn
Are Baby Wipes part of the Pro process?
Is that Si's chainkeeper?
I cleaned my bike literally just yesterday. 😂
What, literally?
DO NOT USE REGULAR SOAPS ON ANY PAINTED SURFACE. Just buy car wash, it’s cheap and it’s literally designed for painted surfaces.