The results are closer than I expected (2 kmh =1.2 mph slower). In my case I still want my 2016 Rim Brake pseudo-aero Podium Equipe with 60mm Carbon wheels plus my 2022 Grizl Al6. For my wife's Grizl I just ordered some Elite G35 to shave off almost 2 lbs and set her up with 32mm tires instead of 45mm. As of now she only rides with me and our kids OR when we are at a campground. It just so happened that now I will happen to have a second DT Swiss Gravel Ln wheelset for a different tire setup
To me, most drop bar bikes look the same unless you line them up side by side. Even then, one road bike will differ subtly in it's geometry and shape to another. And it's the same for gravel bikes. This is shallow I know, but aesthetically I go by what frame colours are available. Really, people should ask themselves what kind of bike will get them out cycling most often.
I have an Orbea Terra with a set of gravel wheels and a set of road wheels. It does a pretty good job as a road bike - but think of it more like a bike with a comfortable 'all road' geometry than lower stretched out race geometry. Depends on the kind of ride you want to do. If I was doing a 100 mile ride over the course of a day, I might feel less beaten up at the end of the ride on the Terra with the 29mm road tires than I would my old aluminum race bike with 23mm road tires. I also think the Shimano GRX brake/shifter handles are more comfortable than the smaller Dura Ace versions on my TI Serotta. I also have to say whatever Orbea is speccing for their bar tape it's by far the most comfortable for long distance rides - comparable to my favorite Cinelli cork tape. One thought is with gravel tires you might get more cushioning over long distances despite the slightly slower speed. So are you doing a long distance journey or a shorter one? Are you racing or are you just riding? I did manage to get my best time in Strava on a particular segment with the gravel bike so makes you think.
Last sportive I did, I finished with a guy who was riding a gravel bike with thicker tyres than my 32’s. The guy was an absolute machine and it was a blast. It doesn’t matter what you’re riding as long as you’re having fun!
What sort of tires and wheels did he have on though? If he had road orientated tires like GP5000s instead of gravel tires the it could have made all the difference.
How does the 38mm handlebars feel? And what bike do you use? I've got a gravel commuter with aero bars but have been thinking of getting rid of the bars and using a smaller bar instead. Would love to hear your opinion
@@buggen819 Yeah, absolutely love them. They are much more comfortable for me than 42cm I was using before. I was always riding with wrists turn in a little all the time on 42cm, so it was quite no brainer to go narrower for me. I feel like I can hold aero position on bike much longer and in quite comfort. Iam 6foot5 tall with quite wide shoulders, so from me absolutely go for it, but it is quite individual. I have got these bars from my mate who tried them and did not like them. Iam using some Chinese Hong-fu cyclocros frame, but I have that frame for 5years with absolutely no problems.
@@buggen819 I've got a gravel bike with 36 cm handlebars with slightly turned in hoods and aerobars fitted as well. I actually went for the narrow handlebars and turned in hoods because of ergonomics, otherwise I just would extend my wrists while on the hoods. But yeah, riding on the aero bars is noticeably faster than even on the narrow handlebars and obviously it feels way different. But no problem sprinting or climbing out of the saddle even on the super narrow handlebars.
@@martinkroutil thanks! How is it off-road? Can't seem to find much on this topic online. Went from 440 flared to 420mm bars (old road bars). I can still tackle single track but I like the way my 380mm feel on my race bike
@@astroturd how about when riding on gravel/single track? It will soon start to snow here in Sweden so I won't ride with aero bars but that's when leverage is king lol
12:55 - this is exactly what I did. Gravel bikes come in a wide range of flavours - some are mountain bikes in drop-bar disguise, some are much closer to a road bike in geometry. I chose one of the latter, put on a road groupset, and *very* supple 40mm slicks. Kept the handlebar width reasonable and the position as close to my road bike as possible. The result is an all-road bike that is not measurably slower than my previous road bike (at least that is what strava tells me), but that does not confine me to well-maintained tarmac. As long as the surface is somewhat firm (a bit of mud is ok, deep mud isn't), I can ride it. The small country road with smooth tarmac turns to rough tarmac and finally to gravel? No need to turn around, you just keep going! Your route lead you onto a major road with fast an aggressive car traffic - but there's a forest path running parallel? Why bother riding with traffic? The wider tyres give you so many more options. I'm pretty sure that at some point the aerodynamic disadvantage of the bigger tyres would impose a speed penalty. But I'm not fast enough for that to be noticeable. If I look at individual strava segments, then the speeds are virtually the same. But on longer rides (>100km), the "gravel" bike even tends to be a bit faster - probably because the wide, plush tyres reduce vibration and thus fatigue. For normal people, comfort and performance go together.
I just rode a 100km charity cycle yesterday, ( reckon Si is talking to me😂) small group of 8 and we rode as a loose group. As the only one on a gravel bike I held my own (Terra H40). 100km , 880m climbing and average speed just under 20kph. All very amateur cyclists. The road surfaces were unbelievably bad and I really benifited from the bigger tyres . Upright geometry suits my inflexible 47yr beer sculpted body . As with all things cycling there is amazing choice out there . Find a bike that suits you , your riding style, fitness, ability but most of all enjoy cycling. Overall a really good video highlighting the differences between road and gravel. Buy the bike for the rider you are, not the rider you think you are.
IME going from 25mm road tires (at 85-90 psi)to 32/35mm gravelish tires at 45-55 psi makes a big difference in rider comfort on less than ideal roads even at my 63-64 kg weight. Also using flattened drop handle bars is much more comfy than round bars.
the thing they (intentionally) left out of the explanation of the results (other than not showing the actual numbers) is the fact that the gravel bike was only 0.5 km/h slower "on average" and that includes runs at 40+ km/h. I guarantee that the results of the gravel bike on road tires were identical to the road bike at 20-30km/h
I'm actually positively surprised that you are finely taking the cycling experience or ride-feel into account. That's what it's all about if you ask me. Cycling is to us humans what horse riding was to our ancestors. It's about exploration, about freedom, about adventure, about conquering your fears, pushing your limits, going into the unknown, about play (yes; that feeling of mucking about like a kid out on his bike), about the exhilaration of powering a machine with your own strength, is about feeling the wind rush along your body, feeling the sensation of traversing this single track descent, it's about being outside and feeling stronger and healthier with each fresh breath of air and with each mile you ride, it's about that nod to your fellow rider, it's about cruising and swerving alongside this canal with backwind when unexpectedly joined by a flock of geese hovering just overhead, it's about growth (both in terms of strength and endurance) and about self-reliance. And last but not least it's about meeting the world - head on face first - putting your self out there. Going places. meeting people; needing only your sweaty body, and pouring your heart, mind and soul into something you love and sharing it with other people. Ride feel is everything. I ride a bike because I enjoy the feeling of going out into the world, trusting my body , my wits and my bike to get me where I am going. The best feeling is just to surrender to the ride, and leaving it all to chance. Not knowing what the ride will bring in terms of vistas, meetings, situations and the sheer exhilaration of the ride. So yes, again; For me cycling is about the love of cycling and all about emotion. 🚵♥🌍
100%, and once you realise it, it happily makes redundant all the aero/integrated/expensive wankery we see on new bikes. Own and ride more, cheap, customised bikes, not one or two off-the-peg ‘superbikes’.
Definitely agree with the point around "feel"! I have both a road and gravel. On tarmac, it is really just something special about a road bike that simply cannot be replaced by a gravel bike.
Agree, after switching to a gravel bike I really notice that ascending out of the saddle seems a lot more sluggish. But I really enjoy the handling and comfort of a gravel bike.
Really happy you did this video. I’m 60 years old and a full time RVer here in the USA. Loved my road bike and all the group rides i went on when I was stationary. But traveling i have found that not every place has good (rideable) roads. So I switched to a Gravel bike about 8 months ago and also held onto my road wheel set. The gravel bike feels a little slower and i guess my data shows that as well. But i do like the versatility. I hope when i settle back down i can still keep up with the young guys on the group rides on the gravel bike with road wheels.
This is the best road vs. gravel comparison I've seen. As someone who is pretty new to cycling, and who started on a gravel bike that has mostly been ridden on tarmac, I appreciated the "feel" perspective of someone with years of road bike experience. It makes sense and I can better appreciate that perspective.
It’s taken me around four years of riding gravel bikes to realise that it’s the sweet spot for me. I don’t race and ride for the fun of it. I also have a xc mtb and a road bike and haven’t rode either of those for ages, the gravel bike at least for me is the perfect set up.
You guys missed out the main benefit of the gravel bike geometry which is stability. As soon as speeds start getting above 50kph the gravel bike is much faster because the longer, slacker geo makes them infinitely more stable which, if like me you get your kicks descending means I’m minutes faster because I can maintain 70/80kph on a my gravel bike where as 50/60kph on my road bike is sketchy af. Cornering at slower speeds feels much better due to the stability too, I’d argue that for 90% of cyclists a gravel bike with road tyres is the best choice. Even the stronger frames and forks negate the weight because you don’t have to avoid pot holes, curbs etc you can bunny hop them or boost a speed bump for a giggle without worrying about damage. Pointy, twitchy road bikes are great if your racing a crit because you can change direction easier but that’s a really small percentage of us. Average 80-110kg weekend riders and commuters would get so much more out of a gravel bike than a traditional road bike.
Last fall I did a cycling holiday in French Alpes on my gravel with road wheels. Absolutely No regrets, great gearing and hydraulic brakes made this experience much better than my last visit on my old rim brake bike. Managed a solo without any issues at all.
Sounds fun. How do you think a road bike with gravel tires would fare? I have no fork mounts, but i also hate baggage on my steering. I like to be free to ride with no hands.
This-I’m picking up a new bike with clearance for 40mm tires with full fenders, but I’m going to have a fairly aggressive body position (well, aggressive for me). I’ll run slicks, and then for summer group rides and road fondos I’ll ditch the fenders and go with deep-section wheels. What is a road bike anyway?
@@stiffjalopy4189 I just picked up new bicycle too. It has a 60mm clearance with 650b. I'm rolling 47mm Vittoria terreno's everywhere. Feels faster than my commuter for sure
@@stiffjalopy4189 keep the fenders they are more aerodynamic. Imagine you are looking at a bike from the drive side (front wheel to the right) and the wheel is a clock face; as long as the front of the fender extends to about the 1 o'clock position and the rear ends somewhere between 9 and 10 o'clock they reduce drag vs not having fenders.
@@stiffjalopy4189 My endurance road bike fits 40mm tires. (Specialized Roubaix) i chucked 40mm gravel tires on it because riding road bikes near the sandy beach can be trecherous. I may swap to 35mm and some fenders after hearing about the aero benefit. I wanted to keep the road bike nimbleness. Gravel bikes are a bit more stretched out on the geometry. I dont mean the rider though, i mean the chainstay, front center, headtube angle, etc. Edit. My road drivetrain also has 0 clearance issues with a wider tire. It looks like the drivetrain can handle 50mm easy. So i dont get what manufacturers are talking about needing the extra 2.5mm width of a gravel drivetrain. I can probably stuff a 45mm on the bike, but it would be a squeeze with 0 guarantee!
@@liquidwombat I’ve heard that, but my fenders go well past 9:00, and with the mud flaps they get to about 6:30. Also, I’ve run the deep section wheels on my current frame with fenders, and it makes handling in the cross winds worse than without fenders. Weird; I’ve never seen anyone mention that phenomenon.
Thanks for that. When I swap between my TCR-SL and Revolt the agility/lightness of the TCR is always apparent - but the option of dropping the tyres down a bit and tapping through the bush or gravel on the way home is always appealing.
I ride a TCR and Revolt, I also ride the Terra and the speed difference between the Terra and Revolt is nearly the same as the difference between the TCR and Revolt. If you get a chance pick one up and I promise you will not regret it. I love my Revolt, don't get me wrong but that Terra is amazing.
I've pretty much decided my next road bike will be a modified gravel bike. I could switch over my existing bars, fit a longer stem if necessary and tweak the positioning. But after riding a few gravel bikes, the way the frame absorbs the bumbs and tarmac versus a road frame really appeals to my aging body. The ability to fit 35s, have a less punishing frame and ride quality is the key selling point. The roads around me are truly awful. A gravel bike running road 35mm tubeless will literally make me want to ride more often versus getting beaten up all the time.
Your philosophical ramblings really hit home. I commute daily on a gravel bike set up as close to my road bike as possible, and when I go back to my road bike it feels like I am flying. Speed-wise, there is not a noticeable difference, but the peppiness and responsiveness makes me feel like I am faster even when I am not.
I just got into cycling this year. Have a gravel bike. Scott speedster gravel 20. I had gravel tyres on it for the first couple of months. Averaging about 19kph. Now i have new road tyres and averaging about 22-23kph. I also done leisure rides with both and got dropped and dropped people with both set ups. My theory is if i get a full road bike in the future all my gravel bike ridinh will have made me stronger and faster
@@Prisma591 definitely a bit of both. I cycled the same route and the new tyres are faster based on the kph. But for fitness I'd say there is no difference to which set up. Just takes slightly longer or you have to put in slightly more effort
I got the same bike in the summer of 23. These last few months i used vitora corsa pro road tires. My best ride was 150 km a couple of weeks ago, averaging over 26km per hour. Not bad for an entry level alu bike. The game changer is actually the hope pro 5 rear wheel hub (complete wheel set from hope). Quality components will change the feel of you ride enormously. And fitness.
For alot of people, 2kph is going to be irrelevant. Outside of racing and people riding with clubs. The ability to go down a gravel or mud track is probobly more important. For an example, if i were ever to attempt a cycle commute, that would take in 10% gravel/mud track. If i want to ride around my local park, that's about 30% mud track. For either of those, i can't use a bike with road tires. But, i can use a gravel bike for, even though it's still majority smooth riding. And, most people arn't going to have more than 1 bike. So, riding a gravel bike, with gravel tires is going to be a great all round choice for many people, and having that with road tires will get a few others close enough. In terms of a single jack of all trades bike, a gravel bike is a great choice.
I doubt that very much… if you include ALL humans who cycle, also those who go shopping with a Holland bike or bringing their children to the kindergarten with bikes - of course you are right. But amongst all of my mates who ride their bike as their hobby I know not one single person for whom speed doesn’t matter - and then 2 kph is huge, it’s the equivalent of years of training!
@@Andy_ATB too seriously? Who is defining this? We all enjoy riding and have much fun with it. When you love riding slow - fine, do it and chose whatever bike you want. But don’t make that a rule for other cyclists
@Andy_ATB 2 kph is the difference between keeping with the group and being dropped and riding the route solo. It's a big deal. I have way more fun going fast than I do going slow. You do you, but don't judge for other people
Did Si really say "simply change the bars?" That's a multi-hour actvity with an integrated setup by the time you've disconnected and pulled out the hoses, wiggled them back through the new bar (good luck), adjusted the shifter position, bled the brakes, retaped the bars (at least twice, usually, to get it looking nice), and torqued everything up. Certainly enough to warrant a beer at the end.
I was thinking the same thing about swapping out the wheels. That's gotta involve at least a brake adjustment, and while I'll do almost all the other maintenance on my bike, that's one task I will pay a mechanic to do every time because it's tedious AF and always takes me at least half an hour of readjustments.
@@Sarandib22use the same equipment for both wheels and it should be nothing more than a couple clicks of adjustment on the rear mech. Shim the brakes if the hubs are that far out of alignment
This video very nicely shows the suspension effect (2:45) of a larger tire volume. You can see the bike bouncing up and down gently and it is easy to understand why this setup, while more heavy than a road bike, would be more comfortable on a poor surface road, thereby keeping you less fatigued and able to keep riding without taking a break.
When a sponsored videoe from Orbea shows that you dont need to buy a new bike, start talking about "the feeling". By the way: im owning both a Terra and a Orca :)
Which one would you recommend for primary use as a commuter bike? My trip is 99.9 tarmac or pavement, but parts lead through forest, so there is often leaves (or horse dung...). That is why I think gravel bike (with gravel tires) is the way to go. That and the possibility to install fenders - if that is even possible with the Terra or Orca.
@grummbeerbauer3527 I have a Cannondale Synapse and Cannondale Slate. I've had the Synapse since 2017 and recently found a Slate on eBay and stripped and 'restored' it with more gravel focused components eg GRX 810, 11-40 cassette (yes, it fits!), Profile Design GRV 38cm bar and Hope calipers for a 180/160 rotor size bump. I've taken the Slate bikepacking to Scotland and on holiday.to the Lake District. I also commute everyday on it. The biggest change for me is tyre width. I set some new PRs in the Lakes on 42mm GK slicks, and my fitness and weight was very similar. With the fatter tyres, you pretty much can go anywhere. For commuting not having to deal with a puncture is my main reason to take the Slate (you seem to get less cuts etc with wide tyres running lower pressures) along with being able to deal with crap roads. I have 42c Conti Contact Urban tyres, faster than 'gravel tyres'. I will probably get another set of wheels and hook them up with Pirelli 45c M tyres for proper weekend gravel rides. I'm not sure what will happen with the Synapse. I have an Orca on the Zwift Hub, which I will use to crit race in the summer. The only downside of the Slate is the 650b rims and lack of tyre choice. If it had 700c rims I would have deep section road wheels with Pirelli 35c tyres purely for road and a set of gravel wheels and tyres.
@@grummbeerbauer3527 gravel bike all the way. unless you absolutely need that +1kph difference (which you don't) the gravel bike is a pure joy to ride, esp. off road where the road bike is utterly useless.
@@grummbeerbauer3527 if the question is "Should I get a gravel bike or road bike" the answer is always "gravel bike" ALWAYS! As this video shows you can always put faster road specific tires on a gravel bike, but when the smooth pavement ends so does the fun on a road bike
Have two very similar bikes, road and gravel. Same brand, both carbon, minimum weight difference, the gravelbike having a rather race oriented geo, same drivetrain setup (DuraAce 2x11 vs Ultegra 2x12 both 52-36/11-30) as I use the gravel more like an allroad-winter bike. The only significant difference are the tires (both on carbon wheels). Use 28mm GP5000 on my roadbike and 32 GravelKing slicks on my gravel. I am a fairly weak rider and did the same test over the weekend on a stretch of smooth tarmac with no elevation. For me the difference was cca 4km/h at 180w which is very significant.
Yeah but it's mostly due to the wheels/tires as road bikes have faster wheels/tires. You've got a different groupset so you can't easily swap but if someone plans for it, the difference seems very small. As the video said, like 0.5-1km.
It's so satisfying to hear someone go into the weeds on sharing their thoughts/feelings about this topic (something I think about a lot!). Thank you GCN for putting this together, this was very enjoyable to watch.
Definitely there are gravel bikes and gravel bikes. I’m fortunate enough to own a Specialized Crux as my second gravel bike ever. And I liked that bike a lot because with a “simple” wheel swap, it becomes a really good endurance bike. That’s something that I cannot say about my previous gravel. It was more of an adventure gravel bike which on road felt sluggish. I do have a Hard Tail and also a proper Road Bike, but some times I find myself grabbing my gravel bike because I either want to have fun off road or I just want to be a bit more comfortable than on my road bike. I believe that neither of those bikes will replace each other, but certainly a gravel bike feels limitless compared to the other bikes.
It did resonate, I appreciate the thoughtfully in-depth video on reflecting on the small difference and making people think about what they want out of cycling :)
Recently lost all my bikes in a fire. Had a road, gravel, mountain and fat bike. The first bike I have replaced is the gravel bike. In terms of speed its not quite as fast as the road bike but is no slouch either. Comfort is another factor as well. Long rides with road tires on a gravel bike may offer less discomfort than the aero position of the road bike. If you need to go faster find a faster rider and hold the wheel.
I routinely ride my gravel bike on club road rides, I love it. It is a better workout for me and I don't have issues staying with the group. However, I would not stay with just one bike (gravel) with different wheels for gravel and road. My road bike is definitely faster, better handling and my go to race bike. So, in the end, my opinion is gravel is usable for road, but it is not ideal for road :).
I did a similar experiment with the Specialized Creo 2 (yes it is electric, get over it) on a 5 mile loop. Did a first loop with bike out the box with 47mm tyres. The second loop, I changed wheels, tyres, cassette and remover the dropped which dropped 2kg off the bike. The second loop was over a minute quicker and I could feel the difference for sure
The results are pretty much meaningless. It isn't a scientific experiment. Even a 2km/h difference is barely outside of the margin of error. Once road tyres are fitted the difference is negligible. A slight change in wind could account for any of the differences.
7:31 I went the reverse way. My wife has a Trek Domane AL 5 endurance/comfort bike. I had extra wheels so I threw some gravel tires on them. She is happy riding on easy gravel. They worked like a dream. Cost effective and plenty fun for her. 😊 12:07 I definitely felt the difference at higher speeds on a group ride. I ran out of gears! 😅
I've been riding a gravel frame, built up as a "do all" with Force AXS 2x 46/33 chainset and a 10/33 cassette. Got a set of road wheels and a set of gravel wheels. BRILLIANT FUN!!! Haven't touched my "proper" road bike all year. Incedentally, this set-up is more than enough for some pretty decent gravel climbs...
I've got an orca 2024, have put GP5000s on 32 back 28 front and bigger chain rings. Commuting daily and leisure riding at the weekends all in Englands most potholed county. . This Orca 2024 is my everything bike. Its perfect (it's a road bike) and cost £2.2k with tyres and bigger chainrings. Would go off-road with a change of tyres and wheels.
Yes for real! I suspect this frame would not allow those tires but probably a different road bike frame would. Or maybe there's another way to test that but it would be interesting for sure!
@nerdexproject I more thought about a standard Road Bike with like 30mm Tires. I see too many People still think that a 40mm Tire is a gravel Tire (for me more like allroad). Do like a Road Bike on 30s vs a Gravel bike with 45s minimum (better like 50s seeing that Keegan Swenson is riding 2.2s or even 2.4s in the front)
if you talking about speed, in a lot of gravel races its not gravel bikes that win, rather its endurance/all road ones, heck even a full on race bike wins it.
Congratulations on this very informative video, very well done! Here is my story: a little less than three years ago I discovered the wonderful world of cycling and in all my ignorance I bought a gravel bike, one that is somewhat heavier than the model in the video, my gravel weighs about 11 kg, very quickly I replaced the wheels and tires with road wheels and tires, and of course the large opening on the fork is not a sight. I don't really like cycling on gravel roads, I generally like the road much more and in particular the mountains, so in August this year I made a first attempt to cycle up the Alpe d'Huez, that was a wonderful experience, with the Col de Sarenne as the icing on the cake. Cycling friends have been telling me for a long time that I should buy a road bike, but I was not yet convinced and therefore wondered whether it is worth investing in a new road bike. After watching this video, the answer is clear and in my case I will definitely benefit from it. Thanks! PS And now the big question, which one shall I buy, the possibilities are vast! My budget is rather limited! 🥴
I stay right in the middle: I ride an endurance/all-road bike and have two wheelsets. I run wheel sets with 32mm road tires and 33mm knobbies. The feel of the bike doesn’t change noticeably but the capability does. At least for myself, I’ve found a sweet spot. It also helps that I’m not racing so 1 or 2 kilometers or even miles per hour don’t matter much. I’d be keen to see the same test done with a road bike vs a gravel race bike like the Checkmate. I wonder if that bike is any slower on the road than a dedicated road bike.
This is a great comparison and I especially like the fact that you did it with two Orbea and switched the wheels! Really Great Video and super informative!!!!
Great video, Si. For those of us a bit older and with some periodic niggling back pain, this begs the question about the differences between a performance road bike and an endurance bike. I, for one, would love to see a comparison between these bikes.
Did a 120km sportive on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike two weeks ago with 32mm road tyres along with a group of road bike guys and being in the peloton negates much of the drag of the upright position. The 1X AXS gearing might add a small difference for gear spacing and top speed but other than a lot of comments on the single chain ring and size of the rear cassette, I found it an amazing all rounder bike and well able to keep up with the roadies.
@@wandering_pete personally I don’t find the 1X a disadvantage. The 12 speed 10-44 SRAM rear cassette is amazing for climbing. For me I think the latest 1X equipment from SRAM has already made me wonder I will ever need or want 2X.
@@ShaneOSullivanky Yes, the climbing ratios alone make it tempting to go 1-by, particularly as most road groupsets only have a 1:1 for climbing. A few days back I used ChatGPT to do some calculations on 1-by vs 2-by top-end speeds, there was a difference but only by a few km/h, and of course, most riding isn't being done at top-end speed and downhill you can freewheel. I'm definitely leaning more to 1-by.
I've been playing around with speed-at-cadence calculators and gear ratios lately. It's interesting that a 42T chainring coupled to a common 11T rear gear, at 70 cadence, will propel you to 21.7 mph. 80 cadence drives the speed up to 24.8 mph. This assumes the bike has a 35mm tire. Personally, I can't maintain 21+ mph on a flat road for any length of time! For us non-racers, people who primarily ride solo, or people who aren't riding with fast amateurs, a 1x drivetrain with a 40 or 42T chainring is probably more than enough. Honestly, I'd be better off here in Colorado with a 36 or 38T front chainring. I don't have issues with the "downhill" part of riding! Kudos on keeping up with the roadies!
Think you’re spot on with this assessment Si. I’ve been riding my Open UP for the last year as my 1 bike to rule them all, 2 sets of wheels I can interchange one with gravel tyres one with slicks (35mm Rene Herse love ‘em). The biggest area it falls down is that lack of responsiveness when out of the saddle. But I have 2 road bikes in the garage that I haven’t used too much as I tend to opt for the gravel bike with slicks, for comfort reasons as I want to be out enjoying myself for a good few hours in relative comfort. The same rig with the gravel tyres saw me through Unbound without an issue.
Thanks for this comparison and this is another data point that convinces me I bought the right "single bike" (gravel). I mostly ride on cycle paths and packed gravel tracks and only occasionally to a sportive. My gravel bike - while not the fastest thing - really works well for everything I do.
You are absolutely right that cycling is all about the emotion and the feelings and the freedom or performance or whatever gives you Joy . I cycle because I don't want to be enclosed in a car . I want to move faster than walking, but I still want to see and experience my surroundings. I haven't ridden the road bike in years, but I switched from a mountain bike that I was using in an all-purpose way to a gravel bike and I've been quite happy. I think I'd like to go faster, but I like the rough roads and bike touring, so gravel bike for me!
Great video Si! I bought my "dream bike" last year - all carbon frame and finishing kit and Di2 groupset - and I can only afford one such stead its a gravel bike (Trek Chekpoint) but with extra wheel-sets it really can "do it all". The wheels I have for it are carbon Roval Terra C wheels with Pathfinder 42mm tires (for bikeacking and gravel rides), HUNT Aerowide 34's with Vittoria Corsa Pro 32mm tires (for road rides and club runs), and DT Swiss GR 1600 with Hutchinson Touareg 45mm (for gloopy rides through fields and the woods). And its fantastic to always be riding my "dream bike" whatever my ride - and a frame and set up put together after a "fit before you buy" bike fit so the position I have is the one I can hold anyway. Being older (60yr) its important to be able to hold a position in the drops to make me as quick as I can be, and I was always slow and I never could keep up with the speedy boy groups on my club runs anyway!
I appreciate your mentioning the 'feel' on a road bike depending on the wheelbase. My 'go-to' bike on a climb is my 32 yr old C4 with a wheelbase of only 96 cm. All my other bikes with a longer base feel slower, even when they weigh slightly less. Especially on very steep climbs the difference is obvious, to me at least.
At last a test comparing them with the same wheels/tyres on. Nicely done. Dare say you'd feel as much difference between a lot of various 'road bikes' than you would between these two examples (with the same wheels/tyres on).
I absolutely love watching your videos! I’m currently waiting for new wheels and road tyres for my Cannondale Topstone 105 gravel bike, and I’m hoping I’ll be a little faster, but also have a great feel with them! After all, the feel is the most important thing!
Thank you, finally someone does this video! Road bike vs. gravel bike with gravel AND road tires, nice. I can only have one bike, so I ride a Giant Revolt with two wheelsets. 650B Hunt for gravel/singletrack, and Zipp 303s for road. Compared to my “track” bike, the handling is noticeably lazy on the Revolt, but in isolation, it’s good most of the time, and the speed I lose is almost entirely rider. Cheers!
I think you are spot-on. Gravel bikes would be the default bike for most and if I could only have one, it would be a gravel bike. I have a gravel bike, a mtb, a cargo e-bike for commuting, and a road bike. If I’m honest, the road bike is ridden the least because of the roads near me, but that just increases the feeling of speed and joy when I do get to ride it.
As a lifelong cyclist and racer, I like the variety of bike geometry and kit available (price allowing). I ride a gravel bike with road wheels / tyres for long hilly days (3000m+) because the gearing ratios are spaced for climbing gradient changes and because the descending is that bit more stable. However, for full bore faster stuff, the road bike is the weapon of choice for sure. Nice video Si.
Never that much of an issue for me because I ride solo all the time in terms of being able to keep up with anybody, I have a cube gravel bike that I ride primarily on the road the reason being I prefer the more comfortable geometry and broader tyres to a road bike. What annoys me more is that if I wanted to join a local cycling club and believe me I have tried they all expect me to either ride at their speed and/or change my wheels (because they're all roadies) neither of which I'm prepared to do for I'm not super slow but I'm not super fast either and I just don't get the obsession with speed when that's not what it's about for me, I do occasionally like to go a bit faster but I can manage that with the bike I have which I love.
I ride solo as well. Don’t really need the motivation (competitiveness?) of a group ride plus working in trauma medical care, I’m kinda scared of a bunch of people riding at speed. Having played collective sport for 25 odd years, I enjoy the flexibility of solo cycling…riding whenever and however I want. Plus according to the video, at lower wattage, the difference is negligible. I’m surely not going to ride a 300+W rides anytime soon. Comfortable bike that’s stable and well mannered is more important to me than a couple of minutes/Kph or a Strava segment achievement. Anyway…enjoy your riding (solo or in a group of considerate people:)
Love the video. Got a 2x GRX Gravel Bike, and I can run 38mm tyres with mudguards for winter / mix of on and off roads. And in summer I can run 30 or 32mm tyres and have balanced geometry and nice gears for 200km rides and steep hills. It would be nice to have a selection of bikes, but actually this works well for me, and I always feel happy when I’m out riding!
Interesting video as always, watched a lot of these before I bought my gravel bike 3+ years ago and never looked back. For me as someone that rides for fun the real decision came down to whether I want to be limited to just riding on the road or being able to explore the forest and side trails that exist where we live. I'm too slow to notice the difference in performance from the road bikes that I've owned, but I always feel quick enough on the roads. However the freedom to explore nature and escape the cars, knowing the bike can handle it is what makes me want to get on my bike.
Thanks Si and crew. I just "Foghat " , sir ! I feel fast , going slowly . I began riding late in life , and I am learning about cycling from your channel , and greatly appreciate all of your knowledge , and humor !
I have a cyclocross bike(inflite 9al)and for years had 2 sets of wheels, one 50mm carbon with road tires and then Al wheels for the gravel tires, living in an apartment this was a great option to do both off road and on road
I've been riding a dual purpose gravel bike since 2020. Reason? The position on most road bikes is too aggressive for me. The solution was a Pinarello Grevil. I bought two sets of wheels. One is the traditional gravel wheel, but aluminum. The other was a lower end carbon road wheel set with tubeless tires. It's amazing the difference in road feel and speed difference between the two sets. I'm happy with how it feels with the road wheels as it's less twitchy than a traditional road bike. Add that less road noise is transferred through the frame and saddle as well.
Regarding the feel of the road frame vs gravel, I get it. But there are many, many gravel bikes. Some are optimized more for full-on gravel, and some are optimized for race-gravel (and thus more road bike dimensions). So there *are* gravel bikes that do-it-all in the sweet spot of riding both disciplines (giving up the extremes of each). I do the dual wheel set (and optimized cassette) and find it's really the ideal solution.
Thanks for the experiments! The difference is OK for me, because I don't race. In reality, adaptability to various road conditions is more important to me. The good thing about a gravel bike is that it's fast enough to enjoy the speed while you are able to deal with off road situations sometimes.
I Built a budget gravel bike using a KHS MTB frame. Ok, so basically its a mountain bike with drop down handlebar. I even kept the cheap suspension (non locking) , but replaced my tires for road 700 X 38 s. Also my transmission is a 50/34 with 11/34T cassette. I can't express how much fun it is to ride this bike. I was also able to keep up with road bike peloton on a 100km ride averaging 35kmph. I did this so i could ride roads that are less than perfect without worrying about extremely thin tires on a road bike. I will switch my suspension for a carbon mtb fork and finally decide weathe rto keep the fork or use a better performing, locking suspension.
My 3 MTBs all have 2 sets of wheels - one set std with basic tyres on decent rims and hubs for riding along flatish/ less demanding trails, exercise rides, or pouting along the canal etc with my wife. The other set are the business with hubs and tyres to match for days at the bike park or mountain trails. Saves a bomb on wearing out top tyres for basic trails/rides.
I have had a gravel bike since January this year and love it, I had a Orbea road bike for 11 years and loved it but as I am getting older I felt every bump in the road and the largest tyres I could use was 25mm.The gravel bike may be 2k’s an hour slower but the ride is so much better the tyres and frame soak up the bumps My specialized bike is very light and the tyres are smooth in the middle which makes them ready quick on the road and if I want a little gravel I can just go off road when needed. I also have a mountain bike for the ruff stuff as living in Nelson New Zealand the mountain bike capital you need that. Good to be flexible and do whatever you want. No i won’t be buying another road bike again!
This was a useful video. Here's my story: I needed a road bike, or so I assumed, to replace a road bike that no longer fit, long story. During the shopping process I waffled between a Specialized Ruby and Diverge, having had a sudden itch to be able to jump between asphalt and gravel on whim. But, since I had a mtn bike already, I went with the Ruby. 3 yrs later, I have a Diverge, the same version I considered some years ago. I've pondered selling the Ruby and getting a road wheel set since the fit for each bike is very very close to being the same. We'll see.
Totaly agree with you Simon, climbing off the saddle is so much different on the gravel bike. The slacker geometry, shorter saddle to handle bar distance ( even if I changed the original stem for one 4 cm longer,making the gravel position still maybe 2 cm shorter than my road set up ) and I would add the shoes-pedal combination (SPD with somewhat softer soles versus Speedplay with carbon soles), all that add up to give the impression you are on a totally different beast. On top of that I would also add that climbing a paved steep hill with the gravel bike, standing or sitting, is so much slower. That is with the gravel wheels and tires that come with the bike, a Trek Checkpoint SL5, which are rather on the heavy side. But on gravel roads or trails this bike is so much fun !
A gravel bike can use road bike wheels and tires. A road bike can't usually fit gravel bike wheels and tires. A gravel bike has a generally more comfortable position than a road bike, and can be used on mild off roading much better than a road bike. If you would only ever ride on smooth, paved roads or are trying to win some kind of road race then road bike. If not, gravel bikes hands down. That's why i opted to build my own flat bar gravel bike. Cheap, fun, easy to work on, reliable, goes anywhere except mountain bike trails that require suspension forks to ride in a fun way.
I just went for my first group ride recently I have a hardtail while the rest of the group has gravel bikes. Thinking about getting one or some tires for my road.Opens my mind a bit!
I think the difference in outside diameter between road and gravel wheels really affects geometry and handling. Road tires have a smaller outer diameter, whereas gravel tires are taller. So, slick gravel tires (like the Challenge Strade Biancha) fit the gravel bike's geometry better and would handle better than road tires would (e.g., the taller gravel tires compensate for the longer wheelbase). I haven't put slicks on my gravel bike yet, but I am planning to get some 40s when my current tires wear out because I spend most of my time on pavement and very light gravel anyhow.
Agree with you on that love, i have a few bikes that all feel different. The one thing i come to on my race bike is the feel, it just wants to fly. I love that. My steel project bike is all about fun, there is nothing more fun than that. My gravel bike isnt as fun as my other bikes (5 in Total) but having a bike that can go anywhere is just awsome especially when you want to mix up the comute with some gravel riding
Like a lot (most?) commenters here I've pretty much switched my "go to" bike to my gravel bike, and the road bike hangs from the hooks in the garage. The GB is comfortable, and oh-so-versatile. Here in Vermont, USA, where there are plenty of dirt roads to explore, I can just swing onto them instead of looking longingly at the lost adventure. Per Strava I've actually had multiple PRs on the gravel. While I haven't done it yet, I'm thinking I'll sell my RB and get a second set of wheels for the GB. I perfect solution, for me. Ride on!
One think I can pointout..if you have a gravel bike there are some faster rolling tires in slightly small size to help close the gap.. and still be gravel ready for the majotity of normal gravel or rough pavement areas. Sort of a compromise.. maybe a 38c or 42c tire with center strip (semi-slick with outr grip ) . This is what I am about to try on mine. I know it'll still be slower than my road bike but hopefully not by a lot and have the comfort for the rougher roads in the area when i want to venture off in the other direction. Nice vid as usual, informative and good test.
Been road racing since 1987. Since getting a gravel bike in 2017, i find myself doing the vast majority of my training on it. The Tarmac is for race day.
Agree with Si's perspective. Years ago, I had steel cyclocross bike and a carbon road bike. The difference was about 4km/hr on road. Putting road tires on the cyclocross bike helped, but not that much. The cyclocross bike was fine on the road, but the road bike was so much better in those qualitative aspects. These days I own a mountain bike, a road bike, and nothing in between.
100K yesterday on a gravel bike with road wheels. Had no issue keeping up with anyone, and was more comfortable that I am on my road bike, in the long run.
About to turn my 45mm knobbly shod Whyte Gisburn gravel adventure bike into a winter road bike. Got some 38mm Bontragers to help transition. Current winter bike rim brake hack can just about take 28mm so looking forward to some extra comfort and braking power. Hope i can still hang on to the club ride.
I like that you discussed feel too. After all, we ride for fun, it’s not a business investment. However, I would caution you that you are confusing familiarity with “better”. Equally one could argue that the more stable, planted feel of the gravel bike feels better to someone who is used to mtb’s. And while I do care about those “feels” when I’m testing a bike, and during short easy rides without friends, most rides, I care about my fatigue, about the view, about Charing to my friends, etc. So then it really is all about comfort, control and speed.
I've slowly gotten rid of my road bikes since I got my gravel bike. I got a second wheelset and run multiple tires on it based on the road conditions. 32s, 35s, 38s, and even a set of 40s for when I am more road than gravel, but not road tire worthy. It's a beautifully terrific problem to have 😊. Ultimately, I am finding the 2 sets of 35s the best options, one is pure road, one is a narrow smooth gravel. Just did 80 mile road gravel mix on the 35s gravel tires and was only 5 mins off my best time, which I found fantastic since the wind was up.
This is consistent with my experience, I have a gravel bike (Canyon Grizl AL7) and around 50% of the time I ride with a road club. Last year I got a set of road wheels and found I had about a 1km/hr increase in speed. I am looking at getting a road bike and am encouraged that I may be able to get another 0.5 - 1km / hr increase in speed.
I have a Specialized Diverge, with a GRX one-by set up. I also have a set of road wheels for club road rides. I'm limited by my front 42 tooth cog, so, much above 45 kph on the road and my legs are going like a sewing machine. Speed is not a huge issue for the intermediate road group I'm riding with. A 100km road ride is waaay easier than a 100km gravel ride. The road wheel setup works well for me and a lot more cost effective than having two bikes. Having said that, I ride about 90% gravel and only 5% road. The other 5% is reserved for the winter on my fat bike, with big studded tires on mountain bike trails.
Bought an Orro Terra C this Feb (24) mudguards, new wide rim wheels, 32mm tyres rode it everyday I could, got my old Storck back on the road and realised just how much more comfortable the Orro is, the difference is comparable between the Storck and my old Specialised Allé (alloy frame) in terms of comfort, tehre is not much in terms of speed, but the comfort takes it every time, still love them both for different reasons
I ride a Checkpoint winter/commute and Tarmac summer club rides. Both were fitted to me and the bars on the checkpoint swapped to bring my position in line. I find a massive difference in speed between the two, or at least I feel like I do. But to be clear I love them both, and being able to tear around the local trails on the gravel bike with just a tyre change makes it such a good piece of kit, but it doesn’t feel the same on a road decent or chain gang.
Maybe if you have your own bike mechanic :) I went down this path with my trek domane. The drive train was the biggest issue, you need very different gearing for gravel, especially for climbing. I had to swap everything for grx in the drive train. Plus my nice roadie was getting smashed from gravel rash even with paint protection. on. It is doable, but it costs $$$ for the additional components, plus how much is your time worth swapping out the drive train regularly?
I've finished Vätternrundan (formerly 300km, these days 315km) many times, mostly on a cheap road bike but once on a (cheap-ish) gravel bike. My time has never changed very much, year to year, the time on the gravel bike included (although I did put a bit more pressure into the tyres that year). This year, two guys completed the course on schoolgirls' bikes (presumably either for a laugh or a bet) and one of them would have beaten my time if he hadn't had to keep waiting for his mate. As someone else commented below, "It doesn’t matter what you’re riding as long as you’re having fun!"
Back in 2011 I bought a new Surly Cross Check. I'm a bigger dude, not a racer, not trying to win the Tour. I wanted a bomb proof bike I could ride in all weather and across all kinds of terrain and that CC did the trick for well over a decade. I had a set of wheels with Schwelbe Marathons and one with gravel tires depending on what I wanted to do. It was great because if I did want to go out on longer rides, I could, but it was perfect for riding pot holed city roads and not worry about getting a flat. These days that bike is retired and i have a touring bike and an AC Big Block with a freewheel on it. My next bike will probably be something more road orientated. I say if you are not concerned with speed, and need a daily commuter for riding on bad city roads, a gravel bike could be what you are looking for.
Climbing out of the saddle is a huge difference for me: I bought a gravel bike as a "do it all" bike but ending up selling it because it felt so sluggish out of the saddle. It was my first geared bike after riding fixed gears for years and it was super noticable. Have since picked up a road bike and its like night and day.
I've already done this! Well very nearly, anyway! I bought a gravel bike (Liv Invite) in 2019, because I wanted the versatility at the time. However, over time I realised that I was riding on the road much more, and I enjoy it more too. So I changed the tyres - not the wheels, just the tyres. I swapped out the 38mm gravel tyres that came with the bike for a pair of S-Works Mondo 2Bliss Ready T2/T5 35mm road tyres. They did make a difference, pretty similar to what you reported, about 1-1.5 km/h faster for the same effort (I don't have a power meter, so I can only go off perceived exertion). However, when I went for my first ride with them in place on the bike, it felt like I was flying! But then, I don't have a road bike to compare it to. I'd love a "proper" road bike, but at the moment I just can't afford one, so for now my low-cost adaptation to my gravel bike is doing the business for me.
the speed differences are negligible, BUT the 'feel' difference is very tangible. and that is going to impact your emotional state as well. if you like the feel of a road bike - those short chain stays, the shorter wheelbase - you're going to notice the "dullness" of a gravel bike. i have a more road-focused gravel bike (3T Exploro RaceMax), which has a short-ish wheelbase of 1014mm in size 56, and it's only 31mm longer than my road bike (it also has more of a road bike crown length). but, i can still FEEL that difference, and it's enough to me that i just leave my road wheels on my road bike all the time.
I think you did a great job at explaining and showing the differences between road and gravel bikes. I think especially for beginners that don't live in flat area, a gravel bike with road tires is the better road bike than an actual road bike simply because of the lower gearing. The don't know how a "true" road bike feels and probably care much less than an ex pro. Also what this test doesn't show is your efficiency on the bike, how much effort on your side is needed to achieve a certain power output. I can imagine a beginner could probably ride at the same power for longer in a more upright position.
I think your results are pretty accurate. I ride a Specialized diverge using rb tires and have similar stats to yours. I could not keep up with my mates riding road bikes on sprints and over distances.
Thanks for that video, because I was looking at gravelbikes which have more a road bike geomatry instead of a 100% full on gravel geometry. Now I know I probaly will go more torwards the full on gravel geometry instead of an hybrid version bike. Thanks GCN
Makes complete senses. I started with a really nice gravel bike and did the old wheel swaparoo and it was amazing riding it in “road mode” and was rugged and fun in gravel mode. The moment I built up a light semi aero road bike I felt the difference. Both bikes were carbon, both bikes had di2 and both bikes had the same gp5000 tyres on. But the road bike was just more agile. It was effortless when it came to acceleration, climbing out the saddle was easier and more enjoyable, descending felt racier and cornering felt better. I moved country to somewhere with worse roads than the UK, I know imagine it so I brought my gravel bike with me as you never know when the tarmac runs out and the gravel starts. And I love the bike but when the roads are smooth, I lust after my road bike.
I got a second set of wheels for my gravel bike last year and it was awesome. I still have, and ride, a super-face race-oriented road bike, and it just depends on what sort of ride / race I’m doing. Road tires + gravel bikes are great for club rides, & more chill rides. I should say I’m running 34+ road tires on that bike tho.
Nice idea for a video. You could also try to evaluate how much performance you would miss out on when doing a group ride on a gravel to road conversion. Especially in terms of accelerations etc.
My 'winter' bike is a gravel bike. The cables do not route through the stem. I run a 'slammed' 7 degree stem on it. I run road wheels and off road wheels for it. With the stem in the negative angle I get a configuration that approximates the front end height of an endurance bike. Flipped, the front end comes up to provide a more upright position. However, I'm a 63 year old cyclist who lives riding bikes. Therefore, I invest the time and effort to stretch so that I can ride a bike in a reasonably efficient position. So, the stem never actually gets flipped on that particular bike.
I have two Supersixs, one is an EVO and the other a EVO SE gravel. I’ve been running my gravel bike with Terra Speed 45s all summer just because I love the tire sound on asphalt and descent on bumpy roads are more fun…. When I hop back on my road bike I feel like a speed god. I do have a spare “road” set of wheels for the gravel, but unless it’s a multi days bike tour I just keep the bikes with their intended wheel sizes. For something like a 500 miles RAGBRAI type event, a gravel bike with 32-40c tires is the way to roll.
How much do feel, agility and aesthetics matter to you? 🚲❤️ What bike and option would you go for? Give us your thoughts in the comments! 👇
The results are closer than I expected (2 kmh =1.2 mph slower). In my case I still want my 2016 Rim Brake pseudo-aero Podium Equipe with 60mm Carbon wheels plus my 2022 Grizl Al6. For my wife's Grizl I just ordered some Elite G35 to shave off almost 2 lbs and set her up with 32mm tires instead of 45mm. As of now she only rides with me and our kids OR when we are at a campground. It just so happened that now I will happen to have a second DT Swiss Gravel Ln wheelset for a different tire setup
If you buy a tractor.. you don't usually put Ferrari tires on it 😁
For me, weight is probably the most important factor..
@@Jari1973 Well, wouldn't a fat bike or MTB be a tractor in this case? 😁
To me, most drop bar bikes look the same unless you line them up side by side. Even then, one road bike will differ subtly in it's geometry and shape to another. And it's the same for gravel bikes. This is shallow I know, but aesthetically I go by what frame colours are available.
Really, people should ask themselves what kind of bike will get them out cycling most often.
I have an Orbea Terra with a set of gravel wheels and a set of road wheels. It does a pretty good job as a road bike - but think of it more like a bike with a comfortable 'all road' geometry than lower stretched out race geometry. Depends on the kind of ride you want to do. If I was doing a 100 mile ride over the course of a day, I might feel less beaten up at the end of the ride on the Terra with the 29mm road tires than I would my old aluminum race bike with 23mm road tires. I also think the Shimano GRX brake/shifter handles are more comfortable than the smaller Dura Ace versions on my TI Serotta. I also have to say whatever Orbea is speccing for their bar tape it's by far the most comfortable for long distance rides - comparable to my favorite Cinelli cork tape. One thought is with gravel tires you might get more cushioning over long distances despite the slightly slower speed. So are you doing a long distance journey or a shorter one? Are you racing or are you just riding? I did manage to get my best time in Strava on a particular segment with the gravel bike so makes you think.
Last sportive I did, I finished with a guy who was riding a gravel bike with thicker tyres than my 32’s. The guy was an absolute machine and it was a blast. It doesn’t matter what you’re riding as long as you’re having fun!
What sort of tires and wheels did he have on though? If he had road orientated tires like GP5000s instead of gravel tires the it could have made all the difference.
I run 48 slicks on 650b carbon wheels for pavement, and trust me, they are faaaast. don't let the thickness fool ya.
That was me 😂😂😂😂😂😂cheers
Well said !
Fenbops, please confirm if it truly was @@richardward7637 who you rode with. The world needs to know!
I have been riding my "gravel" bike primary as a road bike, with 38cm handlebars and 32mm GP5000, It is the best road bike I have ever own :).
How does the 38mm handlebars feel? And what bike do you use? I've got a gravel commuter with aero bars but have been thinking of getting rid of the bars and using a smaller bar instead.
Would love to hear your opinion
@@buggen819 Yeah, absolutely love them. They are much more comfortable for me than 42cm I was using before. I was always riding with wrists turn in a little all the time on 42cm, so it was quite no brainer to go narrower for me. I feel like I can hold aero position on bike much longer and in quite comfort. Iam 6foot5 tall with quite wide shoulders, so from me absolutely go for it, but it is quite individual. I have got these bars from my mate who tried them and did not like them. Iam using some Chinese Hong-fu cyclocros frame, but I have that frame for 5years with absolutely no problems.
@@buggen819 I've got a gravel bike with 36 cm handlebars with slightly turned in hoods and aerobars fitted as well. I actually went for the narrow handlebars and turned in hoods because of ergonomics, otherwise I just would extend my wrists while on the hoods. But yeah, riding on the aero bars is noticeably faster than even on the narrow handlebars and obviously it feels way different. But no problem sprinting or climbing out of the saddle even on the super narrow handlebars.
@@martinkroutil thanks! How is it off-road? Can't seem to find much on this topic online. Went from 440 flared to 420mm bars (old road bars). I can still tackle single track but I like the way my 380mm feel on my race bike
@@astroturd how about when riding on gravel/single track? It will soon start to snow here in Sweden so I won't ride with aero bars but that's when leverage is king lol
12:55 - this is exactly what I did. Gravel bikes come in a wide range of flavours - some are mountain bikes in drop-bar disguise, some are much closer to a road bike in geometry. I chose one of the latter, put on a road groupset, and *very* supple 40mm slicks. Kept the handlebar width reasonable and the position as close to my road bike as possible.
The result is an all-road bike that is not measurably slower than my previous road bike (at least that is what strava tells me), but that does not confine me to well-maintained tarmac. As long as the surface is somewhat firm (a bit of mud is ok, deep mud isn't), I can ride it. The small country road with smooth tarmac turns to rough tarmac and finally to gravel? No need to turn around, you just keep going! Your route lead you onto a major road with fast an aggressive car traffic - but there's a forest path running parallel? Why bother riding with traffic?
The wider tyres give you so many more options.
I'm pretty sure that at some point the aerodynamic disadvantage of the bigger tyres would impose a speed penalty. But I'm not fast enough for that to be noticeable. If I look at individual strava segments, then the speeds are virtually the same. But on longer rides (>100km), the "gravel" bike even tends to be a bit faster - probably because the wide, plush tyres reduce vibration and thus fatigue. For normal people, comfort and performance go together.
why not just put gravel tires on roadbike, now with discbrakes nothing holds you back
@@cyronixed roadbikes can typically only fit very slim tires,
That’s exactly what I’m doing! Frame should be built in one month, and I can’t WAIT to ride it!
@@cyronixedmy disc road bike can handle 32mm tires, but 35 is pushing it. My new bike will take 45, or 40 with fenders.
Yes indeed and the more inferior roads in one's riding area the more this will come into play. it's about less fatigue for sure.
I just rode a 100km charity cycle yesterday, ( reckon Si is talking to me😂) small group of 8 and we rode as a loose group. As the only one on a gravel bike I held my own (Terra H40). 100km , 880m climbing and average speed just under 20kph. All very amateur cyclists. The road surfaces were unbelievably bad and I really benifited from the bigger tyres . Upright geometry suits my inflexible 47yr beer sculpted body . As with all things cycling there is amazing choice out there . Find a bike that suits you , your riding style, fitness, ability but most of all enjoy cycling.
Overall a really good video highlighting the differences between road and gravel.
Buy the bike for the rider you are, not the rider you think you are.
IME going from 25mm road tires (at 85-90 psi)to 32/35mm gravelish tires at 45-55 psi makes a big difference in rider comfort on less than ideal roads even at my 63-64 kg weight. Also using flattened drop handle bars is much more comfy than round bars.
Are you me???
the thing they (intentionally) left out of the explanation of the results (other than not showing the actual numbers) is the fact that the gravel bike was only 0.5 km/h slower "on average" and that includes runs at 40+ km/h. I guarantee that the results of the gravel bike on road tires were identical to the road bike at 20-30km/h
@@schsch2390 not to mention that the wider tires at lower pressure are faster than the narrow high pressure tires
Your “chill intensity” is pretty close to my FTP!
Just a coincidence
Ya but can he install 18"/500mm storm drain pipe with a digging bar? Or 8"/200mm sewer pipe? The answer coincidentally is no.
I'm actually positively surprised that you are finely taking the cycling experience or ride-feel into account. That's what it's all about if you ask me. Cycling is to us humans what horse riding was to our ancestors. It's about exploration, about freedom, about adventure, about conquering your fears, pushing your limits, going into the unknown, about play (yes; that feeling of mucking about like a kid out on his bike), about the exhilaration of powering a machine with your own strength, is about feeling the wind rush along your body, feeling the sensation of traversing this single track descent, it's about being outside and feeling stronger and healthier with each fresh breath of air and with each mile you ride, it's about that nod to your fellow rider, it's about cruising and swerving alongside this canal with backwind when unexpectedly joined by a flock of geese hovering just overhead, it's about growth (both in terms of strength and endurance) and about self-reliance. And last but not least it's about meeting the world - head on face first - putting your self out there. Going places. meeting people; needing only your sweaty body, and pouring your heart, mind and soul into something you love and sharing it with other people.
Ride feel is everything. I ride a bike because I enjoy the feeling of going out into the world, trusting my body , my wits and my bike to get me where I am going. The best feeling is just to surrender to the ride, and leaving it all to chance. Not knowing what the ride will bring in terms of vistas, meetings, situations and the sheer exhilaration of the ride. So yes, again; For me cycling is about the love of cycling and all about emotion. 🚵♥🌍
Beautiful!
Spot on!
Well said!
100%, and once you realise it, it happily makes redundant all the aero/integrated/expensive wankery we see on new bikes. Own and ride more, cheap, customised bikes, not one or two off-the-peg ‘superbikes’.
❤
Definitely agree with the point around "feel"! I have both a road and gravel. On tarmac, it is really just something special about a road bike that simply cannot be replaced by a gravel bike.
Agree, after switching to a gravel bike I really notice that ascending out of the saddle seems a lot more sluggish. But I really enjoy the handling and comfort of a gravel bike.
Really happy you did this video. I’m 60 years old and a full time RVer here in the USA. Loved my road bike and all the group rides i went on when I was stationary. But traveling i have found that not every place has good (rideable) roads. So I switched to a Gravel bike about 8 months ago and also held onto my road wheel set. The gravel bike feels a little slower and i guess my data shows that as well. But i do like the versatility. I hope when i settle back down i can still keep up with the young guys on the group rides on the gravel bike with road wheels.
This is the best road vs. gravel comparison I've seen. As someone who is pretty new to cycling, and who started on a gravel bike that has mostly been ridden on tarmac, I appreciated the "feel" perspective of someone with years of road bike experience. It makes sense and I can better appreciate that perspective.
It’s taken me around four years of riding gravel bikes to realise that it’s the sweet spot for me. I don’t race and ride for the fun of it. I also have a xc mtb and a road bike and haven’t rode either of those for ages, the gravel bike at least for me is the perfect set up.
You guys missed out the main benefit of the gravel bike geometry which is stability. As soon as speeds start getting above 50kph the gravel bike is much faster because the longer, slacker geo makes them infinitely more stable which, if like me you get your kicks descending means I’m minutes faster because I can maintain 70/80kph on a my gravel bike where as 50/60kph on my road bike is sketchy af.
Cornering at slower speeds feels much better due to the stability too, I’d argue that for 90% of cyclists a gravel bike with road tyres is the best choice.
Even the stronger frames and forks negate the weight because you don’t have to avoid pot holes, curbs etc you can bunny hop them or boost a speed bump for a giggle without worrying about damage.
Pointy, twitchy road bikes are great if your racing a crit because you can change direction easier but that’s a really small percentage of us. Average 80-110kg weekend riders and commuters would get so much more out of a gravel bike than a traditional road bike.
Last fall I did a cycling holiday in French Alpes on my gravel with road wheels. Absolutely
No regrets, great gearing and hydraulic brakes made this experience much better than my last visit on my old rim brake bike. Managed a solo without any issues at all.
Sounds fun. How do you think a road bike with gravel tires would fare? I have no fork mounts, but i also hate baggage on my steering. I like to be free to ride with no hands.
Most people I know don’t spec their gravel bikes as gravel bikes, they use the tyre clearance to fit mudguards and wide road tyres.
This-I’m picking up a new bike with clearance for 40mm tires with full fenders, but I’m going to have a fairly aggressive body position (well, aggressive for me). I’ll run slicks, and then for summer group rides and road fondos I’ll ditch the fenders and go with deep-section wheels. What is a road bike anyway?
@@stiffjalopy4189 I just picked up new bicycle too. It has a 60mm clearance with 650b. I'm rolling 47mm Vittoria terreno's everywhere. Feels faster than my commuter for sure
@@stiffjalopy4189 keep the fenders they are more aerodynamic. Imagine you are looking at a bike from the drive side (front wheel to the right) and the wheel is a clock face; as long as the front of the fender extends to about the 1 o'clock position and the rear ends somewhere between 9 and 10 o'clock they reduce drag vs not having fenders.
@@stiffjalopy4189 My endurance road bike fits 40mm tires. (Specialized Roubaix) i chucked 40mm gravel tires on it because riding road bikes near the sandy beach can be trecherous. I may swap to 35mm and some fenders after hearing about the aero benefit.
I wanted to keep the road bike nimbleness. Gravel bikes are a bit more stretched out on the geometry. I dont mean the rider though, i mean the chainstay, front center, headtube angle, etc.
Edit. My road drivetrain also has 0 clearance issues with a wider tire. It looks like the drivetrain can handle 50mm easy. So i dont get what manufacturers are talking about needing the extra 2.5mm width of a gravel drivetrain. I can probably stuff a 45mm on the bike, but it would be a squeeze with 0 guarantee!
@@liquidwombat I’ve heard that, but my fenders go well past 9:00, and with the mud flaps they get to about 6:30. Also, I’ve run the deep section wheels on my current frame with fenders, and it makes handling in the cross winds worse than without fenders. Weird; I’ve never seen anyone mention that phenomenon.
Thanks for that. When I swap between my TCR-SL and Revolt the agility/lightness of the TCR is always apparent - but the option of dropping the tyres down a bit and tapping through the bush or gravel on the way home is always appealing.
I ride a TCR and Revolt, I also ride the Terra and the speed difference between the Terra and Revolt is nearly the same as the difference between the TCR and Revolt. If you get a chance pick one up and I promise you will not regret it. I love my Revolt, don't get me wrong but that Terra is amazing.
I've pretty much decided my next road bike will be a modified gravel bike.
I could switch over my existing bars, fit a longer stem if necessary and tweak the positioning.
But after riding a few gravel bikes, the way the frame absorbs the bumbs and tarmac versus a road frame really appeals to my aging body.
The ability to fit 35s, have a less punishing frame and ride quality is the key selling point.
The roads around me are truly awful. A gravel bike running road 35mm tubeless will literally make me want to ride more often versus getting beaten up all the time.
Whatever makes you ride more and want to ride more is the right answer. 👌
Your philosophical ramblings really hit home. I commute daily on a gravel bike set up as close to my road bike as possible, and when I go back to my road bike it feels like I am flying. Speed-wise, there is not a noticeable difference, but the peppiness and responsiveness makes me feel like I am faster even when I am not.
I just got into cycling this year. Have a gravel bike. Scott speedster gravel 20. I had gravel tyres on it for the first couple of months. Averaging about 19kph. Now i have new road tyres and averaging about 22-23kph. I also done leisure rides with both and got dropped and dropped people with both set ups. My theory is if i get a full road bike in the future all my gravel bike ridinh will have made me stronger and faster
Maybe you are going faster now because you are fitter? (especially if you only started cycling this year)
@@Prisma591 definitely a bit of both. I cycled the same route and the new tyres are faster based on the kph. But for fitness I'd say there is no difference to which set up. Just takes slightly longer or you have to put in slightly more effort
I got the same bike in the summer of 23. These last few months i used vitora corsa pro road tires. My best ride was 150 km a couple of weeks ago, averaging over 26km per hour. Not bad for an entry level alu bike. The game changer is actually the hope pro 5 rear wheel hub (complete wheel set from hope). Quality components will change the feel of you ride enormously. And fitness.
19,22, 23 or 26 kph on a gravel bike ? not mph ?
@@jeanmartin963 kph kilometers not miles no
I'm with you Si. When I get on my road bike it asks me if we can do intervals. My gravel bike asks to cruise all day long
For alot of people, 2kph is going to be irrelevant. Outside of racing and people riding with clubs. The ability to go down a gravel or mud track is probobly more important.
For an example, if i were ever to attempt a cycle commute, that would take in 10% gravel/mud track. If i want to ride around my local park, that's about 30% mud track. For either of those, i can't use a bike with road tires. But, i can use a gravel bike for, even though it's still majority smooth riding. And, most people arn't going to have more than 1 bike. So, riding a gravel bike, with gravel tires is going to be a great all round choice for many people, and having that with road tires will get a few others close enough. In terms of a single jack of all trades bike, a gravel bike is a great choice.
I doubt that very much… if you include ALL humans who cycle, also those who go shopping with a Holland bike or bringing their children to the kindergarten with bikes - of course you are right. But amongst all of my mates who ride their bike as their hobby I know not one single person for whom speed doesn’t matter - and then 2 kph is huge, it’s the equivalent of years of training!
@@fiddleronthebike Your mates are taking too seriously then......Ever heard of party pace?? Probably not....
@@Andy_ATB too seriously? Who is defining this? We all enjoy riding and have much fun with it. When you love riding slow - fine, do it and chose whatever bike you want. But don’t make that a rule for other cyclists
@Andy_ATB 2 kph is the difference between keeping with the group and being dropped and riding the route solo. It's a big deal.
I have way more fun going fast than I do going slow. You do you, but don't judge for other people
More like 4kph
Did Si really say "simply change the bars?" That's a multi-hour actvity with an integrated setup by the time you've disconnected and pulled out the hoses, wiggled them back through the new bar (good luck), adjusted the shifter position, bled the brakes, retaped the bars (at least twice, usually, to get it looking nice), and torqued everything up. Certainly enough to warrant a beer at the end.
A five minute job warrants a beer at the end!
I was thinking the same thing about swapping out the wheels. That's gotta involve at least a brake adjustment, and while I'll do almost all the other maintenance on my bike, that's one task I will pay a mechanic to do every time because it's tedious AF and always takes me at least half an hour of readjustments.
@@Sarandib22use the same equipment for both wheels and it should be nothing more than a couple clicks of adjustment on the rear mech. Shim the brakes if the hubs are that far out of alignment
This video very nicely shows the suspension effect (2:45) of a larger tire volume. You can see the bike bouncing up and down gently and it is easy to understand why this setup, while more heavy than a road bike, would be more comfortable on a poor surface road, thereby keeping you less fatigued and able to keep riding without taking a break.
When a sponsored videoe from Orbea shows that you dont need to buy a new bike, start talking about "the feeling". By the way: im owning both a Terra and a Orca :)
There is a difference in the feeling. That is just what it is. It is also up to the individual if that matters or not. For most people, it won't.
Which one would you recommend for primary use as a commuter bike? My trip is 99.9 tarmac or pavement, but parts lead through forest, so there is often leaves (or horse dung...). That is why I think gravel bike (with gravel tires) is the way to go. That and the possibility to install fenders - if that is even possible with the Terra or Orca.
@grummbeerbauer3527 I have a Cannondale Synapse and Cannondale Slate. I've had the Synapse since 2017 and recently found a Slate on eBay and stripped and 'restored' it with more gravel focused components eg GRX 810, 11-40 cassette (yes, it fits!), Profile Design GRV 38cm bar and Hope calipers for a 180/160 rotor size bump.
I've taken the Slate bikepacking to Scotland and on holiday.to the Lake District. I also commute everyday on it.
The biggest change for me is tyre width. I set some new PRs in the Lakes on 42mm GK slicks, and my fitness and weight was very similar. With the fatter tyres, you pretty much can go anywhere.
For commuting not having to deal with a puncture is my main reason to take the Slate (you seem to get less cuts etc with wide tyres running lower pressures) along with being able to deal with crap roads. I have 42c Conti Contact Urban tyres, faster than 'gravel tyres'. I will probably get another set of wheels and hook them up with Pirelli 45c M tyres for proper weekend gravel rides.
I'm not sure what will happen with the Synapse. I have an Orca on the Zwift Hub, which I will use to crit race in the summer.
The only downside of the Slate is the 650b rims and lack of tyre choice. If it had 700c rims I would have deep section road wheels with Pirelli 35c tyres purely for road and a set of gravel wheels and tyres.
@@grummbeerbauer3527 gravel bike all the way. unless you absolutely need that +1kph difference (which you don't) the gravel bike is a pure joy to ride, esp. off road where the road bike is utterly useless.
@@grummbeerbauer3527 if the question is "Should I get a gravel bike or road bike" the answer is always "gravel bike" ALWAYS! As this video shows you can always put faster road specific tires on a gravel bike, but when the smooth pavement ends so does the fun on a road bike
Have two very similar bikes, road and gravel. Same brand, both carbon, minimum weight difference, the gravelbike having a rather race oriented geo, same drivetrain setup (DuraAce 2x11 vs Ultegra 2x12 both 52-36/11-30) as I use the gravel more like an allroad-winter bike. The only significant difference are the tires (both on carbon wheels). Use 28mm GP5000 on my roadbike and 32 GravelKing slicks on my gravel.
I am a fairly weak rider and did the same test over the weekend on a stretch of smooth tarmac with no elevation. For me the difference was cca 4km/h at 180w which is very significant.
Yeah but it's mostly due to the wheels/tires as road bikes have faster wheels/tires. You've got a different groupset so you can't easily swap but if someone plans for it, the difference seems very small. As the video said, like 0.5-1km.
It's so satisfying to hear someone go into the weeds on sharing their thoughts/feelings about this topic (something I think about a lot!). Thank you GCN for putting this together, this was very enjoyable to watch.
Definitely there are gravel bikes and gravel bikes.
I’m fortunate enough to own a Specialized Crux as my second gravel bike ever. And I liked that bike a lot because with a “simple” wheel swap, it becomes a really good endurance bike. That’s something that I cannot say about my previous gravel. It was more of an adventure gravel bike which on road felt sluggish.
I do have a Hard Tail and also a proper Road Bike, but some times I find myself grabbing my gravel bike because I either want to have fun off road or I just want to be a bit more comfortable than on my road bike.
I believe that neither of those bikes will replace each other, but certainly a gravel bike feels limitless compared to the other bikes.
It did resonate, I appreciate the thoughtfully in-depth video on reflecting on the small difference and making people think about what they want out of cycling :)
Recently lost all my bikes in a fire. Had a road, gravel, mountain and fat bike. The first bike I have replaced is the gravel bike. In terms of speed its not quite as fast as the road bike but is no slouch either. Comfort is another factor as well. Long rides with road tires on a gravel bike may offer less discomfort than the aero position of the road bike. If you need to go faster find a faster rider and hold the wheel.
I am sorry for your loss. Hope homeowners insurance helps you get the fleet back together.
I routinely ride my gravel bike on club road rides, I love it. It is a better workout for me and I don't have issues staying with the group. However, I would not stay with just one bike (gravel) with different wheels for gravel and road. My road bike is definitely faster, better handling and my go to race bike. So, in the end, my opinion is gravel is usable for road, but it is not ideal for road :).
I did a similar experiment with the Specialized Creo 2 (yes it is electric, get over it) on a 5 mile loop. Did a first loop with bike out the box with 47mm tyres. The second loop, I changed wheels, tyres, cassette and remover the dropped which dropped 2kg off the bike. The second loop was over a minute quicker and I could feel the difference for sure
I was expecting you’d actually put the results on-screen, oh well
Yeah, interesting test and went to the trouble of doing 3 replicates. Where's the table of results?
@@joomzb perhaps GCN could post the resultas a table in the comments?
Cutbacks.
@@joomzbGCN is not known for interpreting data very well... Maybe they hid it on purpose?
The results are pretty much meaningless. It isn't a scientific experiment. Even a 2km/h difference is barely outside of the margin of error. Once road tyres are fitted the difference is negligible.
A slight change in wind could account for any of the differences.
7:31 I went the reverse way. My wife has a Trek Domane AL 5 endurance/comfort bike. I had extra wheels so I threw some gravel tires on them. She is happy riding on easy gravel. They worked like a dream. Cost effective and plenty fun for her. 😊
12:07 I definitely felt the difference at higher speeds on a group ride. I ran out of gears! 😅
Ah, the issue with 1x on gravel bikes, right?
I've been riding a gravel frame, built up as a "do all" with Force AXS 2x 46/33 chainset and a 10/33 cassette. Got a set of road wheels and a set of gravel wheels. BRILLIANT FUN!!! Haven't touched my "proper" road bike all year. Incedentally, this set-up is more than enough for some pretty decent gravel climbs...
I've got an orca 2024, have put GP5000s on 32 back 28 front and bigger chain rings. Commuting daily and leisure riding at the weekends all in Englands most potholed county. . This Orca 2024 is my everything bike. Its perfect (it's a road bike) and cost £2.2k with tyres and bigger chainrings. Would go off-road with a change of tyres and wheels.
I would love to see the reverse Test: how much slower is a Road Bike on Gravel compared to a Gravel Bike.
Yes for real! I suspect this frame would not allow those tires but probably a different road bike frame would. Or maybe there's another way to test that but it would be interesting for sure!
@nerdexproject I more thought about a standard Road Bike with like 30mm Tires. I see too many People still think that a 40mm Tire is a gravel Tire (for me more like allroad). Do like a Road Bike on 30s vs a Gravel bike with 45s minimum (better like 50s seeing that Keegan Swenson is riding 2.2s or even 2.4s in the front)
Well, road bike is faster even on gravel - thats why many pros raced and won gravel races on road bikes. Sad for gravel bike sales 😁
if you talking about speed, in a lot of gravel races its not gravel bikes that win, rather its endurance/all road ones, heck even a full on race bike wins it.
@@paveltomsik2610 That wasn't proper Gravel......
Congratulations on this very informative video, very well done! Here is my story: a little less than three years ago I discovered the wonderful world of cycling and in all my ignorance I bought a gravel bike, one that is somewhat heavier than the model in the video, my gravel weighs about 11 kg, very quickly I replaced the wheels and tires with road wheels and tires, and of course the large opening on the fork is not a sight. I don't really like cycling on gravel roads, I generally like the road much more and in particular the mountains, so in August this year I made a first attempt to cycle up the Alpe d'Huez, that was a wonderful experience, with the Col de Sarenne as the icing on the cake. Cycling friends have been telling me for a long time that I should buy a road bike, but I was not yet convinced and therefore wondered whether it is worth investing in a new road bike. After watching this video, the answer is clear and in my case I will definitely benefit from it. Thanks!
PS And now the big question, which one shall I buy, the possibilities are vast! My budget is rather limited! 🥴
I stay right in the middle: I ride an endurance/all-road bike and have two wheelsets. I run wheel sets with 32mm road tires and 33mm knobbies. The feel of the bike doesn’t change noticeably but the capability does. At least for myself, I’ve found a sweet spot. It also helps that I’m not racing so 1 or 2 kilometers or even miles per hour don’t matter much. I’d be keen to see the same test done with a road bike vs a gravel race bike like the Checkmate. I wonder if that bike is any slower on the road than a dedicated road bike.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
This is a great comparison and I especially like the fact that you did it with two Orbea and switched the wheels! Really Great Video and super informative!!!!
Great video, Si. For those of us a bit older and with some periodic niggling back pain, this begs the question about the differences between a performance road bike and an endurance bike. I, for one, would love to see a comparison between these bikes.
Did a 120km sportive on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike two weeks ago with 32mm road tyres along with a group of road bike guys and being in the peloton negates much of the drag of the upright position. The 1X AXS gearing might add a small difference for gear spacing and top speed but other than a lot of comments on the single chain ring and size of the rear cassette, I found it an amazing all rounder bike and well able to keep up with the roadies.
I've been wondering about whether to go 1-by or 2-by with Shimano's GRX groupsets. Your comments are food for thought.
@@wandering_pete personally I don’t find the 1X a disadvantage. The 12 speed 10-44 SRAM rear cassette is amazing for climbing. For me I think the latest 1X equipment from SRAM has already made me wonder I will ever need or want 2X.
@@ShaneOSullivanky Yes, the climbing ratios alone make it tempting to go 1-by, particularly as most road groupsets only have a 1:1 for climbing.
A few days back I used ChatGPT to do some calculations on 1-by vs 2-by top-end speeds, there was a difference but only by a few km/h, and of course, most riding isn't being done at top-end speed and downhill you can freewheel.
I'm definitely leaning more to 1-by.
I've been playing around with speed-at-cadence calculators and gear ratios lately. It's interesting that a 42T chainring coupled to a common 11T rear gear, at 70 cadence, will propel you to 21.7 mph. 80 cadence drives the speed up to 24.8 mph. This assumes the bike has a 35mm tire. Personally, I can't maintain 21+ mph on a flat road for any length of time! For us non-racers, people who primarily ride solo, or people who aren't riding with fast amateurs, a 1x drivetrain with a 40 or 42T chainring is probably more than enough. Honestly, I'd be better off here in Colorado with a 36 or 38T front chainring. I don't have issues with the "downhill" part of riding! Kudos on keeping up with the roadies!
Think you’re spot on with this assessment Si. I’ve been riding my Open UP for the last year as my 1 bike to rule them all, 2 sets of wheels I can interchange one with gravel tyres one with slicks (35mm Rene Herse love ‘em). The biggest area it falls down is that lack of responsiveness when out of the saddle. But I have 2 road bikes in the garage that I haven’t used too much as I tend to opt for the gravel bike with slicks, for comfort reasons as I want to be out enjoying myself for a good few hours in relative comfort. The same rig with the gravel tyres saw me through Unbound without an issue.
Thanks for this comparison and this is another data point that convinces me I bought the right "single bike" (gravel). I mostly ride on cycle paths and packed gravel tracks and only occasionally to a sportive. My gravel bike - while not the fastest thing - really works well for everything I do.
You are absolutely right that cycling is all about the emotion and the feelings and the freedom or performance or whatever gives you Joy . I cycle because I don't want to be enclosed in a car . I want to move faster than walking, but I still want to see and experience my surroundings. I haven't ridden the road bike in years, but I switched from a mountain bike that I was using in an all-purpose way to a gravel bike and I've been quite happy. I think I'd like to go faster, but I like the rough roads and bike touring, so gravel bike for me!
Great video Si! I bought my "dream bike" last year - all carbon frame and finishing kit and Di2 groupset - and I can only afford one such stead its a gravel bike (Trek Chekpoint) but with extra wheel-sets it really can "do it all". The wheels I have for it are carbon Roval Terra C wheels with Pathfinder 42mm tires (for bikeacking and gravel rides), HUNT Aerowide 34's with Vittoria Corsa Pro 32mm tires (for road rides and club runs), and DT Swiss GR 1600 with Hutchinson Touareg 45mm (for gloopy rides through fields and the woods). And its fantastic to always be riding my "dream bike" whatever my ride - and a frame and set up put together after a "fit before you buy" bike fit so the position I have is the one I can hold anyway. Being older (60yr) its important to be able to hold a position in the drops to make me as quick as I can be, and I was always slow and I never could keep up with the speedy boy groups on my club runs anyway!
I appreciate your mentioning the 'feel' on a road bike depending on the wheelbase. My 'go-to' bike on a climb is my 32 yr old C4 with a wheelbase of only 96 cm. All my other bikes with a longer base feel slower, even when they weigh slightly less. Especially on very steep climbs the difference is obvious, to me at least.
At last a test comparing them with the same wheels/tyres on. Nicely done. Dare say you'd feel as much difference between a lot of various 'road bikes' than you would between these two examples (with the same wheels/tyres on).
I absolutely love watching your videos! I’m currently waiting for new wheels and road tyres for my Cannondale Topstone 105 gravel bike, and I’m hoping I’ll be a little faster, but also have a great feel with them! After all, the feel is the most important thing!
Thank you, finally someone does this video! Road bike vs. gravel bike with gravel AND road tires, nice. I can only have one bike, so I ride a Giant Revolt with two wheelsets. 650B Hunt for gravel/singletrack, and Zipp 303s for road. Compared to my “track” bike, the handling is noticeably lazy on the Revolt, but in isolation, it’s good most of the time, and the speed I lose is almost entirely rider. Cheers!
I think you are spot-on. Gravel bikes would be the default bike for most and if I could only have one, it would be a gravel bike. I have a gravel bike, a mtb, a cargo e-bike for commuting, and a road bike. If I’m honest, the road bike is ridden the least because of the roads near me, but that just increases the feeling of speed and joy when I do get to ride it.
As a lifelong cyclist and racer, I like the variety of bike geometry and kit available (price allowing). I ride a gravel bike with road wheels / tyres for long hilly days (3000m+) because the gearing ratios are spaced for climbing gradient changes and because the descending is that bit more stable. However, for full bore faster stuff, the road bike is the weapon of choice for sure. Nice video Si.
Never that much of an issue for me because I ride solo all the time in terms of being able to keep up with anybody, I have a cube gravel bike that I ride primarily on the road the reason being I prefer the more comfortable geometry and broader tyres to a road bike. What annoys me more is that if I wanted to join a local cycling club and believe me I have tried they all expect me to either ride at their speed and/or change my wheels (because they're all roadies) neither of which I'm prepared to do for I'm not super slow but I'm not super fast either and I just don't get the obsession with speed when that's not what it's about for me, I do occasionally like to go a bit faster but I can manage that with the bike I have which I love.
I ride solo as well. Don’t really need the motivation (competitiveness?) of a group ride plus working in trauma medical care, I’m kinda scared of a bunch of people riding at speed. Having played collective sport for 25 odd years, I enjoy the flexibility of solo cycling…riding whenever and however I want. Plus according to the video, at lower wattage, the difference is negligible. I’m surely not going to ride a 300+W rides anytime soon. Comfortable bike that’s stable and well mannered is more important to me than a couple of minutes/Kph or a Strava segment achievement. Anyway…enjoy your riding (solo or in a group of considerate people:)
I am actually considering getting either an Orca or Terra as a commuter bike (I prefer MTB for leisure rides), so this is the perfect video. THX
Love the video.
Got a 2x GRX Gravel Bike, and I can run 38mm tyres with mudguards for winter / mix of on and off roads.
And in summer I can run 30 or 32mm tyres and have balanced geometry and nice gears for 200km rides and steep hills.
It would be nice to have a selection of bikes, but actually this works well for me, and I always feel happy when I’m out riding!
Interesting video as always, watched a lot of these before I bought my gravel bike 3+ years ago and never looked back. For me as someone that rides for fun the real decision came down to whether I want to be limited to just riding on the road or being able to explore the forest and side trails that exist where we live. I'm too slow to notice the difference in performance from the road bikes that I've owned, but I always feel quick enough on the roads. However the freedom to explore nature and escape the cars, knowing the bike can handle it is what makes me want to get on my bike.
Thanks Si and crew. I just "Foghat " , sir ! I feel fast , going slowly . I began riding late in life , and I am learning about cycling from your channel , and greatly appreciate all of your knowledge , and humor !
Thank you for your comment, and don’t feel pressured by anything or anyone. Welcome to the club! 🥳
I have a cyclocross bike(inflite 9al)and for years had 2 sets of wheels, one 50mm carbon with road tires and then Al wheels for the gravel tires, living in an apartment this was a great option to do both off road and on road
I've been riding a dual purpose gravel bike since 2020. Reason? The position on most road bikes is too aggressive for me. The solution was a Pinarello Grevil. I bought two sets of wheels. One is the traditional gravel wheel, but aluminum. The other was a lower end carbon road wheel set with tubeless tires. It's amazing the difference in road feel and speed difference between the two sets. I'm happy with how it feels with the road wheels as it's less twitchy than a traditional road bike. Add that less road noise is transferred through the frame and saddle as well.
Regarding the feel of the road frame vs gravel, I get it. But there are many, many gravel bikes. Some are optimized more for full-on gravel, and some are optimized for race-gravel (and thus more road bike dimensions). So there *are* gravel bikes that do-it-all in the sweet spot of riding both disciplines (giving up the extremes of each). I do the dual wheel set (and optimized cassette) and find it's really the ideal solution.
Thanks for the experiments! The difference is OK for me, because I don't race. In reality, adaptability to various road conditions is more important to me. The good thing about a gravel bike is that it's fast enough to enjoy the speed while you are able to deal with off road situations sometimes.
I Built a budget gravel bike using a KHS MTB frame. Ok, so basically its a mountain bike with drop down handlebar. I even kept the cheap suspension (non locking) , but replaced my tires for road 700 X 38 s. Also my transmission is a 50/34 with 11/34T cassette. I can't express how much fun it is to ride this bike. I was also able to keep up with road bike peloton on a 100km ride averaging 35kmph. I did this so i could ride roads that are less than perfect without worrying about extremely thin tires on a road bike. I will switch my suspension for a carbon mtb fork and finally decide weathe rto keep the fork or use a better performing, locking suspension.
My 3 MTBs all have 2 sets of wheels - one set std with basic tyres on decent rims and hubs for riding along flatish/ less demanding trails, exercise rides, or pouting along the canal etc with my wife. The other set are the business with hubs and tyres to match for days at the bike park or mountain trails. Saves a bomb on wearing out top tyres for basic trails/rides.
I have had a gravel bike since January this year and love it, I had a Orbea road bike for 11 years and loved it but as I am getting older I felt every bump in the road and the largest tyres I could use was 25mm.The gravel bike may be 2k’s an hour slower but the ride is so much better the tyres and frame soak up the bumps My specialized bike is very light and the tyres are smooth in the middle which makes them ready quick on the road and if I want a little gravel I can just go off road when needed.
I also have a mountain bike for the ruff stuff as living in Nelson New Zealand the mountain bike capital you need that. Good to be flexible and do whatever you want.
No i won’t be buying another road bike again!
This was a useful video. Here's my story: I needed a road bike, or so I assumed, to replace a road bike that no longer fit, long story. During the shopping process I waffled between a Specialized Ruby and Diverge, having had a sudden itch to be able to jump between asphalt and gravel on whim. But, since I had a mtn bike already, I went with the Ruby. 3 yrs later, I have a Diverge, the same version I considered some years ago. I've pondered selling the Ruby and getting a road wheel set since the fit for each bike is very very close to being the same. We'll see.
MORE bike psychology Si! Love it. Bottom bracket drop is usually different to, leading to feel difference. The emotional side of cycling - more more.
Totaly agree with you Simon, climbing off the saddle is so much different on the gravel bike. The slacker geometry, shorter saddle to handle bar distance ( even if I changed the original stem for one 4 cm longer,making the gravel position still maybe 2 cm shorter than my road set up ) and I would add the shoes-pedal combination (SPD with somewhat softer soles versus Speedplay with carbon soles), all that add up to give the impression you are on a totally different beast.
On top of that I would also add that climbing a paved steep hill with the gravel bike, standing or sitting, is so much slower. That is with the gravel wheels and tires that come with the bike, a Trek Checkpoint SL5, which are rather on the heavy side.
But on gravel roads or trails this bike is so much fun !
A gravel bike can use road bike wheels and tires. A road bike can't usually fit gravel bike wheels and tires.
A gravel bike has a generally more comfortable position than a road bike, and can be used on mild off roading much better than a road bike.
If you would only ever ride on smooth, paved roads or are trying to win some kind of road race then road bike. If not, gravel bikes hands down. That's why i opted to build my own flat bar gravel bike. Cheap, fun, easy to work on, reliable, goes anywhere except mountain bike trails that require suspension forks to ride in a fun way.
Yup, I consider a road bike as a dedicated tool for racing now. Similar to how a downhill mountain bike is only for lift assisted downhill parks.
I daily a '76 Fuji Sports 10 that I found in a dumpster. I look forward to riding something like either of these one day. Cheers for the vid.
I just went for my first group ride recently
I have a hardtail while the rest of the group has gravel bikes.
Thinking about getting one or some tires for my road.Opens my mind a bit!
I think the difference in outside diameter between road and gravel wheels really affects geometry and handling. Road tires have a smaller outer diameter, whereas gravel tires are taller. So, slick gravel tires (like the Challenge Strade Biancha) fit the gravel bike's geometry better and would handle better than road tires would (e.g., the taller gravel tires compensate for the longer wheelbase). I haven't put slicks on my gravel bike yet, but I am planning to get some 40s when my current tires wear out because I spend most of my time on pavement and very light gravel anyhow.
Since the gravel tyres would increase the wheel size both front and back the same, the bike geometry and wheel base would remain the same.
@@bikeman123 Yes, that's what I'm saying.
Agree with you on that love, i have a few bikes that all feel different. The one thing i come to on my race bike is the feel, it just wants to fly. I love that. My steel project bike is all about fun, there is nothing more fun than that. My gravel bike isnt as fun as my other bikes (5 in Total) but having a bike that can go anywhere is just awsome especially when you want to mix up the comute with some gravel riding
Like a lot (most?) commenters here I've pretty much switched my "go to" bike to my gravel bike, and the road bike hangs from the hooks in the garage. The GB is comfortable, and oh-so-versatile. Here in Vermont, USA, where there are plenty of dirt roads to explore, I can just swing onto them instead of looking longingly at the lost adventure. Per Strava I've actually had multiple PRs on the gravel. While I haven't done it yet, I'm thinking I'll sell my RB and get a second set of wheels for the GB. I perfect solution, for me. Ride on!
One think I can pointout..if you have a gravel bike there are some faster rolling tires in slightly small size to help close the gap.. and still be gravel ready for the majotity of normal gravel or rough pavement areas. Sort of a compromise.. maybe a 38c or 42c tire with center strip (semi-slick with outr grip ) . This is what I am about to try on mine. I know it'll still be slower than my road bike but hopefully not by a lot and have the comfort for the rougher roads in the area when i want to venture off in the other direction. Nice vid as usual, informative and good test.
Been road racing since 1987. Since getting a gravel bike in 2017, i find myself doing the vast majority of my training on it. The Tarmac is for race day.
Agree with Si's perspective. Years ago, I had steel cyclocross bike and a carbon road bike. The difference was about 4km/hr on road. Putting road tires on the cyclocross bike helped, but not that much.
The cyclocross bike was fine on the road, but the road bike was so much better in those qualitative aspects.
These days I own a mountain bike, a road bike, and nothing in between.
100K yesterday on a gravel bike with road wheels. Had no issue keeping up with anyone, and was more comfortable that I am on my road bike, in the long run.
I've been riding my gravel bike with road wheels, 28 inch GP5000 and it feels great
About to turn my 45mm knobbly shod Whyte Gisburn gravel adventure bike into a winter road bike. Got some 38mm Bontragers to help transition. Current winter bike rim brake hack can just about take 28mm so looking forward to some extra comfort and braking power. Hope i can still hang on to the club ride.
I like that you discussed feel too. After all, we ride for fun, it’s not a business investment.
However, I would caution you that you are confusing familiarity with “better”. Equally one could argue that the more stable, planted feel of the gravel bike feels better to someone who is used to mtb’s.
And while I do care about those “feels” when I’m testing a bike, and during short easy rides without friends, most rides, I care about my fatigue, about the view, about Charing to my friends, etc. So then it really is all about comfort, control and speed.
I've slowly gotten rid of my road bikes since I got my gravel bike. I got a second wheelset and run multiple tires on it based on the road conditions. 32s, 35s, 38s, and even a set of 40s for when I am more road than gravel, but not road tire worthy. It's a beautifully terrific problem to have 😊. Ultimately, I am finding the 2 sets of 35s the best options, one is pure road, one is a narrow smooth gravel. Just did 80 mile road gravel mix on the 35s gravel tires and was only 5 mins off my best time, which I found fantastic since the wind was up.
This is consistent with my experience, I have a gravel bike (Canyon Grizl AL7) and around 50% of the time I ride with a road club. Last year I got a set of road wheels and found I had about a 1km/hr increase in speed. I am looking at getting a road bike and am encouraged that I may be able to get another 0.5 - 1km / hr increase in speed.
I have a Specialized Diverge, with a GRX one-by set up. I also have a set of road wheels for club road rides. I'm limited by my front 42 tooth cog, so, much above 45 kph on the road and my legs are going like a sewing machine. Speed is not a huge issue for the intermediate road group I'm riding with. A 100km road ride is waaay easier than a 100km gravel ride. The road wheel setup works well for me and a lot more cost effective than having two bikes. Having said that, I ride about 90% gravel and only 5% road. The other 5% is reserved for the winter on my fat bike, with big studded tires on mountain bike trails.
Bought an Orro Terra C this Feb (24) mudguards, new wide rim wheels, 32mm tyres rode it everyday I could, got my old Storck back on the road and realised just how much more comfortable the Orro is, the difference is comparable between the Storck and my old Specialised Allé (alloy frame) in terms of comfort, tehre is not much in terms of speed, but the comfort takes it every time, still love them both for different reasons
I ride a Checkpoint winter/commute and Tarmac summer club rides.
Both were fitted to me and the bars on the checkpoint swapped to bring my position in line.
I find a massive difference in speed between the two, or at least I feel like I do.
But to be clear I love them both, and being able to tear around the local trails on the gravel bike with just a tyre change makes it such a good piece of kit, but it doesn’t feel the same on a road decent or chain gang.
If pros win gravel events on endurance bikes with wide tyres, I guess buying an endurance bike with two sets of wheels/tyres is the answer.
pro's dont care about comfort, control or damaging their bike. They only care about speed.
Maybe if you have your own bike mechanic :) I went down this path with my trek domane. The drive train was the biggest issue, you need very different gearing for gravel, especially for climbing. I had to swap everything for grx in the drive train. Plus my nice roadie was getting smashed from gravel rash even with paint protection. on. It is doable, but it costs $$$ for the additional components, plus how much is your time worth swapping out the drive train regularly?
I've finished Vätternrundan (formerly 300km, these days 315km) many times, mostly on a cheap road bike but once on a (cheap-ish) gravel bike. My time has never changed very much, year to year, the time on the gravel bike included (although I did put a bit more pressure into the tyres that year).
This year, two guys completed the course on schoolgirls' bikes (presumably either for a laugh or a bet) and one of them would have beaten my time if he hadn't had to keep waiting for his mate. As someone else commented below, "It doesn’t matter what you’re riding as long as you’re having fun!"
Back in 2011 I bought a new Surly Cross Check. I'm a bigger dude, not a racer, not trying to win the Tour. I wanted a bomb proof bike I could ride in all weather and across all kinds of terrain and that CC did the trick for well over a decade. I had a set of wheels with Schwelbe Marathons and one with gravel tires depending on what I wanted to do. It was great because if I did want to go out on longer rides, I could, but it was perfect for riding pot holed city roads and not worry about getting a flat. These days that bike is retired and i have a touring bike and an AC Big Block with a freewheel on it. My next bike will probably be something more road orientated. I say if you are not concerned with speed, and need a daily commuter for riding on bad city roads, a gravel bike could be what you are looking for.
Climbing out of the saddle is a huge difference for me: I bought a gravel bike as a "do it all" bike but ending up selling it because it felt so sluggish out of the saddle. It was my first geared bike after riding fixed gears for years and it was super noticable. Have since picked up a road bike and its like night and day.
I've already done this! Well very nearly, anyway!
I bought a gravel bike (Liv Invite) in 2019, because I wanted the versatility at the time. However, over time I realised that I was riding on the road much more, and I enjoy it more too. So I changed the tyres - not the wheels, just the tyres. I swapped out the 38mm gravel tyres that came with the bike for a pair of S-Works Mondo 2Bliss Ready T2/T5 35mm road tyres.
They did make a difference, pretty similar to what you reported, about 1-1.5 km/h faster for the same effort (I don't have a power meter, so I can only go off perceived exertion). However, when I went for my first ride with them in place on the bike, it felt like I was flying! But then, I don't have a road bike to compare it to.
I'd love a "proper" road bike, but at the moment I just can't afford one, so for now my low-cost adaptation to my gravel bike is doing the business for me.
the speed differences are negligible, BUT the 'feel' difference is very tangible. and that is going to impact your emotional state as well. if you like the feel of a road bike - those short chain stays, the shorter wheelbase - you're going to notice the "dullness" of a gravel bike. i have a more road-focused gravel bike (3T Exploro RaceMax), which has a short-ish wheelbase of 1014mm in size 56, and it's only 31mm longer than my road bike (it also has more of a road bike crown length). but, i can still FEEL that difference, and it's enough to me that i just leave my road wheels on my road bike all the time.
I think you did a great job at explaining and showing the differences between road and gravel bikes. I think especially for beginners that don't live in flat area, a gravel bike with road tires is the better road bike than an actual road bike simply because of the lower gearing. The don't know how a "true" road bike feels and probably care much less than an ex pro. Also what this test doesn't show is your efficiency on the bike, how much effort on your side is needed to achieve a certain power output. I can imagine a beginner could probably ride at the same power for longer in a more upright position.
After 40 000km on road bikes i buy Orbea Terra 2x12
I think your results are pretty accurate. I ride a Specialized diverge using rb tires and have similar stats to yours. I could not keep up with my mates riding road bikes on sprints and over distances.
1:29 I love how Si belly laughs at his own pun. I endorse that dad behavior wholeheartedly!
Thanks for that video, because I was looking at gravelbikes which have more a road bike geomatry instead of a 100% full on gravel geometry. Now I know I probaly will go more torwards the full on gravel geometry instead of an hybrid version bike. Thanks GCN
Makes complete senses. I started with a really nice gravel bike and did the old wheel swaparoo and it was amazing riding it in “road mode” and was rugged and fun in gravel mode. The moment I built up a light semi aero road bike I felt the difference. Both bikes were carbon, both bikes had di2 and both bikes had the same gp5000 tyres on. But the road bike was just more agile. It was effortless when it came to acceleration, climbing out the saddle was easier and more enjoyable, descending felt racier and cornering felt better. I moved country to somewhere with worse roads than the UK, I know imagine it so I brought my gravel bike with me as you never know when the tarmac runs out and the gravel starts. And I love the bike but when the roads are smooth, I lust after my road bike.
I got a second set of wheels for my gravel bike last year and it was awesome. I still have, and ride, a super-face race-oriented road bike, and it just depends on what sort of ride / race I’m doing. Road tires + gravel bikes are great for club rides, & more chill rides. I should say I’m running 34+ road tires on that bike tho.
Nice idea for a video. You could also try to evaluate how much performance you would miss out on when doing a group ride on a gravel to road conversion. Especially in terms of accelerations etc.
My 'winter' bike is a gravel bike.
The cables do not route through the stem. I run a 'slammed' 7 degree stem on it. I run road wheels and off road wheels for it.
With the stem in the negative angle I get a configuration that approximates the front end height of an endurance bike. Flipped, the front end comes up to provide a more upright position.
However, I'm a 63 year old cyclist who lives riding bikes.
Therefore, I invest the time and effort to stretch so that I can ride a bike in a reasonably efficient position.
So, the stem never actually gets flipped on that particular bike.
I have two Supersixs, one is an EVO and the other a EVO SE gravel. I’ve been running my gravel bike with Terra Speed 45s all summer just because I love the tire sound on asphalt and descent on bumpy roads are more fun…. When I hop back on my road bike I feel like a speed god.
I do have a spare “road” set of wheels for the gravel, but unless it’s a multi days bike tour I just keep the bikes with their intended wheel sizes. For something like a 500 miles RAGBRAI type event, a gravel bike with 32-40c tires is the way to roll.