I didn’t realize how easy this was to do. I’ve been a little intimidated about using these and having a dozen keys laying around. It’d be so much easier to have one key for all cabinets. Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you, I have a cabinet where the keys were misplaced, I picked up another cam lock from the HW store figured I'd replace it but the old one had a smaller square on the end for the latch. I was able to use the keys from the new set and modify 1 wafer in the old to make it work. Now I have the old lock using the new set of keys.
Awesome video, I broke the key off inside my toolbox, was able to pop the lock out, and needed to repin the cylinder (It's a custom cylinder for the drawer locks). This video helped me in figuring out how to pop the wafers, and rebuild the lock.
I have an old arcade cabinet with a cam lock to hold up the back panel, and never had a key to it. As it's the only way to "keep its trousers up", I really needed a key for it. From a previous job I had a few CH-751 keys (we made stuff with electrical panel boxes and they shipped with CH-751 locks, so we had plenty of spare keys) and this showed me that I could re-key it. The main problem I had was a piece of metal on the end which limited it to 90 degrees of turn and also kept the lock together. I pried that off carefully and it came apart. I swapped a couple of wafers, and two were perfect, three were about half a mm proud. So I filed those down (security? I'm keying for CH-751!) and got it to turn. I had trouble putting that bit of metal back on, and it twanged off into a bin of stuff. I'm sure there was a proper tool for it, but I did all this with just screwdrivers and a file. As you said, the screw was enough to hold it together.
Hello CLKsupplies Cam locks can also be master keyed This done by wafers with steps were one key works one side and the master key works the other side using two different key blanks, CCL (Corbin cabinet lock) makes these master keyed as well as draw locks, cabinet locks and padlocks
Hey, greate video with great info. I've run into the problem of being unable to remove the cylinder from the outer shell. IDK the actual terminology but after removing the rear screw the inner cylinder comes out a fraction but can't be pulled out. I'm guessing the model of lock I have has some sort of design feature preventing it sliding out. Any advice?
That was clear and I'm sure i can do it but I have an RV with the ol' CH751 keyed cam locks. How do I get a key (keys) with a known but different cut that match the wafers in the kit you discussed? Thanks.
I have the kit but now am trying to match the door lock to my ignition lock and I really DO NOT want to take the working ignition lock apart. So if I had the depth keys I could figure out and match the locks correct? This is for a 1962 Willys pickup. So where do I find these depth keys? Thank You for a good video
Normally, I would replace a cam lock before rekeying it, but I see where this service could come in handy and I want to add it to my resume. So.....on pin system bidding, I know that the lower the number the smaller the pin/shallower the depth (eg- Kwikset #1 = .170 and #6 = .288). On this kit, am I seeing correctly that the lower numbers are the deeper cuts (#1 = .250 and #5 = .170)? Is it like that for ALL cam locks?
Outstanding video. Really enormously helpful. The kit specifies non automotive cam lock wafers.. Can you explain the difference? I was hoping to rekey a new Ducati gas cap lock to my old motorcycle ignition key, and wondering if this will work, or if I can use the original wafers even? Both locks functioning.. Purely a cosmetic swap.
Thanks again, P.J. I use a lot of these can locks for locking cabinets in the group homes I take care of. Had one the other day that was jammed and I found a broken wafer. Eventually, I want to get this kit. To read the codes on the keys, is that info available online or can a code book be purchased?
Hi Jim, It's amazing how hard those little wafers can be to work on! As far as the codes go. You have plenty of options. Personally, I like Genericode. But HPC Code Source and Kreate A Key (instacode) are good as well. I'm not aware of any code books still being printed. - PJ Here is a link to a few of the options Gcode online www.clksupplies.com/products/genericode-online-1year-access-for-3-users HPC Code Source 500 searches www.clksupplies.com/products/hpc-codesource-online-500-code-searches
These wafers look a lot like the ones that my 1987 Toyota uses for the ignition lock cylinder. Does anyone know if this kit would work for my purposes?
I know this video is older…I just received two cam locks and the key that came with the cam lock doesnt work to open the lock! Why is this? The key came inside the lock.
Getting wafers out isn’t hard there’s a notch opposite the spring and all you have to do is press down on them, tilt the wafer to that side and release and it’ll slip out. Am I the only one that’s taken apart a few locks I don’t have keys for, getting a key I have and finding wafers that work with that key and putting them back together?
I didn’t realize how easy this was to do. I’ve been a little intimidated about using these and having a dozen keys laying around. It’d be so much easier to have one key for all cabinets. Thanks for the tutorial!
Just ordered a kit!
Thanks -PJ
Thank you, I have a cabinet where the keys were misplaced, I picked up another cam lock from the HW store figured I'd replace it but the old one had a smaller square on the end for the latch. I was able to use the keys from the new set and modify 1 wafer in the old to make it work. Now I have the old lock using the new set of keys.
“The juice isn’t really worth the squeeze” that is gold! Just added this in my cart for the van. I bet I thank you again later! Thanks PJ
Haha! Thanks for the support Gerald-PJ
Thanks for all your hard work on stuff like this. Keep telling us all the secrets. We love it very very helpful. Really thank you😅
Awesome video, I broke the key off inside my toolbox, was able to pop the lock out, and needed to repin the cylinder (It's a custom cylinder for the drawer locks). This video helped me in figuring out how to pop the wafers, and rebuild the lock.
Glad it helped -PJ
I have an old arcade cabinet with a cam lock to hold up the back panel, and never had a key to it. As it's the only way to "keep its trousers up", I really needed a key for it. From a previous job I had a few CH-751 keys (we made stuff with electrical panel boxes and they shipped with CH-751 locks, so we had plenty of spare keys) and this showed me that I could re-key it.
The main problem I had was a piece of metal on the end which limited it to 90 degrees of turn and also kept the lock together. I pried that off carefully and it came apart. I swapped a couple of wafers, and two were perfect, three were about half a mm proud. So I filed those down (security? I'm keying for CH-751!) and got it to turn. I had trouble putting that bit of metal back on, and it twanged off into a bin of stuff. I'm sure there was a proper tool for it, but I did all this with just screwdrivers and a file. As you said, the screw was enough to hold it together.
Hello CLKsupplies Cam locks can also be master keyed This done by wafers with steps were one key works one side and the master key works the other side using two different key blanks, CCL (Corbin cabinet lock) makes these master keyed as well as draw locks, cabinet locks and padlocks
Joe, Thanks for sharing!
Hey, greate video with great info. I've run into the problem of being unable to remove the cylinder from the outer shell. IDK the actual terminology but after removing the rear screw the inner cylinder comes out a fraction but can't be pulled out. I'm guessing the model of lock I have has some sort of design feature preventing it sliding out. Any advice?
Excellent video covers all the bases, lockboss
Interesting pj.thanks for sharing. 😎
Where did you go to find the keys cuts? Like what wafers make a 751 lock?
That was clear and I'm sure i can do it but I have an RV with the ol' CH751 keyed cam locks. How do I get a key (keys) with a known but different cut that match the wafers in the kit you discussed? Thanks.
Thank you for the video.
thanks for the Great Video. I will be investigating this wafer kit and the wafer Popper! #LockBoss
Will this work for my tool cabinets? It'd be great if I could get my Craftsman, Husky, US General, etc. to all be keyed the same.
I have the kit but now am trying to match the door lock to my ignition lock and I really DO NOT want to take the working ignition lock apart. So if I had the depth keys I could figure out and match the locks correct? This is for a 1962 Willys pickup. So where do I find these depth keys?
Thank You for a good video
I ordered a set of keys and they dont work for my camper shell, is their a trick, Thanks Subbed paw paw
Just a quick question. Instead of inserting new wafers, can we resequence the existing ones? Like a key with 2435 be changed to 3254?
Sure -PJ
Normally, I would replace a cam lock before rekeying it, but I see where this service could come in handy and I want to add it to my resume. So.....on pin system bidding, I know that the lower the number the smaller the pin/shallower the depth (eg- Kwikset #1 = .170 and #6 = .288). On this kit, am I seeing correctly that the lower numbers are the deeper cuts (#1 = .250 and #5 = .170)? Is it like that for ALL cam locks?
Pretty much, the #'s on wafer can be confusing since they have x's and such-PJ
Outstanding video. Really enormously helpful.
The kit specifies non automotive cam lock wafers.. Can you explain the difference? I was hoping to rekey a new Ducati gas cap lock to my old motorcycle ignition key, and wondering if this will work, or if I can use the original wafers even? Both locks functioning.. Purely a cosmetic swap.
Essentially each mfg uses a unique set of wafers. Cam locks all use about the same size
Thanks again, P.J. I use a lot of these can locks for locking cabinets in the group homes I take care of. Had one the other day that was jammed and I found a broken wafer. Eventually, I want to get this kit. To read the codes on the keys, is that info available online or can a code book be purchased?
Hi Jim, It's amazing how hard those little wafers can be to work on! As far as the codes go. You have plenty of options. Personally, I like Genericode. But HPC Code Source and Kreate A Key (instacode) are good as well. I'm not aware of any code books still being printed. - PJ
Here is a link to a few of the options
Gcode online
www.clksupplies.com/products/genericode-online-1year-access-for-3-users
HPC Code Source 500 searches
www.clksupplies.com/products/hpc-codesource-online-500-code-searches
@@clksupplies Thanks for the reply, PJ 🤠
The first lock i picked was a cheap cam lock.... i guess i more less raked it open....
These wafers look a lot like the ones that my 1987 Toyota uses for the ignition lock cylinder. Does anyone know if this kit would work for my purposes?
I do not think they would work -PJ
Which S & D keys are you using?
Will that kit rekey the comp x cam locks ?
It will work
I know this video is older…I just received two cam locks and the key that came with the cam lock doesnt work to open the lock! Why is this? The key came inside the lock.
Cam locks are great. Rekey all the time #LOCKBOSS
so many tumblers, so little time!
Getting wafers out isn’t hard there’s a notch opposite the spring and all you have to do is press down on them, tilt the wafer to that side and release and it’ll slip out.
Am I the only one that’s taken apart a few locks I don’t have keys for, getting a key I have and finding wafers that work with that key and putting them back together?
Very god I never tried to rekey a cam lock #lockboss
Is it possible to do a video for tubular cam locks?
#lockboss
Love your video's Lou from servicepro1
Thanks-PJ
Thanks for the info. #Lockboss
Good stuf. Thank you! #lockboss
Just wish there was a universal wafer kit for autos, lol.
No Joke!
those are not called rivets. the cams are "swaged" on
Easy to do done hundreds of them #lockboss
#lockboss.
Where can I buy the wafer popper???
www.clksupplies.com/products/gator-wafer-popper