Basic Floor Framing - 2" x 10", 16" 0/C Example - Apprentice Path Class
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- Опубліковано 16 лис 2019
- This will serve as a place holder for the basic floor framing class for those on our Apprentice Path at artisanschoolofconstruction.com These classes may get tweaked and improved as we go along.
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The music "The Artisan Way" was written and performed for my channel by my son, Barret. His channel is here / insanedrummer89 Barret writes most of the music for our channel. Thanks son! - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for your desire to share your knowledge and experience. Your kind is the true underpinning of a society. Too many guilds and secret societies trying to withhold knowledge and giving youth a false education so as to trap them in debt and endless cycles wasted effort. Thank you again.
Great comment, thanks:)
Thank you so much for posting this! You are a great teacher and made it simple to understand.
Thanks for watching!
I love this, very easy to follow.
Thanks! :)
Awesome video mate, currently getting info for a first time new build. This is perfect 👍🏼
Thanks! Especially now, 2" x 10" @ 16" on center are the best and actually cheapest way. I order the 16 foot joists and cut the 14 1/2" block off the end for the bridging and the joist will still span like 14'-2" which is allowed by the span tables for 40/10 loading. :)
Shown this for my highschool architecture class 😎
Thanks! :) I am working on the curriculum for the website but things got hectic when covid came. Thanks and good luck with school!
Never showed how to lay out opposite site. Does it get offset 1 1/2 inches? Or do we start form other side?
Yes, if you look at where they lap you can see they are just on the other side that makes the distance between them less instead of greater on the ends. Basically yes, 1 1/2" So on your layout they go on one side of the mark and on the other end on the pother side of the layout mark.
Took me way too long to come across this video with my UA-cam searches....their algorithms are crap now. Awesome video! I've heard people say for a stronger structure you want to line up your floor joists, wall studs, and roof trusses. With the offset floor joists like this, something on one side won't line up to satisfy that condition. Is there a way you can butt up the floor joists rather than overlap them to avoid that "problem?"
It's really not a problem. I have been building like this for 40 years :) Being 1 1/2" offset is no big deal and the box sill is under the wall any way, It is more important that your rafters and studs lined up. Think about it. There is a solid band (box sill) going around the perimeter and that continuously supports the wall. Cutting every joist is a waste of time. You can take the joists right off the stack and place them in your floor system, no cutting. Think smart :) again, yes, it is a good idea to line up everything but the load from the rafter to the stud is more important than from the stud to the joist because of the continuous band (box sill) Thanks for watching and Happy New Year :)
@@ArtisanTony It's amazing how we can think so hard about something and miss the obvious answer! That should have been obvious to me, lol. Makes total sense and thanks for clearing that up for me. Keep the videos coming my man.
@@joshuasmith1215 Thanks :)
Got a garage with a second floor I put a steel beam across centre 24’span it’s 5 1/4 wide and 8”deep my joists are 16” apart 2x10 12’ long wondering if beam is good enuf plus add double plate top of beam thanks for answering me
I am more familiar with LVL's than steel beams. I know that of it were LVL's it would take 3-18" LVL's to span 24' with a floor load. Also, steel gives way to a fire faster than wood beams if the steel is not protected. Wood beams will char but stay in place on more occasions than steel. Steel will droop then fail due to shortening of length. You could always put an 9 1/4" LVL on either side of the steel beam if the floor seems bouncy.
@@natej6671 this just shows your inexperience and ignorance. Because it does not lose its strength as fast in a fire. Wood doesn't flow, it simply burns from the outside in and the inner parts not exposed to the fire are just as strong as they were before the fire.
By contrast: steel is an excellent conductor of heat and the interior of a beam is just as hot as the outside of the beam exposed to the fire. rustylopez.typepad.com/newcovenant/2007/03/history_is_made.html
@@natej6671 by the way, learn some manners. Don't come to my channel telling me "you doubt" something when you don't know the facts. Now study the issue then come back and make your correction or get booted.
Would you mind saying what your design program is? Is there a free or cheap version…and is it EASY to use. I looked at sketch up and it appears to have a pretty big learning curve. I just want a simple mock up for elevation plan to submit to AAC guys. BTW, I will be looking into your other videos. I really am getting alot out of it, execpt I think I did see where you said, don't learn construction online, lol! Sometimes there are no other ways…Bless you and thank you for a response on this.
It is SketchUp Pro but there is a free web version you should try out. Just google SketchUp for the web. Thanks!
To answer your question about how I learned constriction; I went to a building trades school in high school, 1978-80 and have been in the industry ever since. I own a small design-build company now. Thanks!
On Sketch up, Is there a way to disable the "sticking" aspect? I just need a 3D image along with an elevation plan, sort of graph paper grid stuff. Is that possible? I'd just draw it out but the 3D accuracy is pretty nice and quick... if allowed to be I guess. It's a simple enough design, so why overcomplicate it?@@ArtisanTony
Yeah I was lucky to learn how to type in my high school. Serves me pretty well now tho!!@@ArtisanTony
@@moki888 select objects and make them groups and they they will not interfere with each other.
Can anyone give an answer, making a horizontal roof with 5 x 30 cm wood boards / joists (30 cm being vertically) would the boards in 5 meters length bend from it's own weight and snow ? And what is the max spacing allowed between boards, is 70 cm enough ?
I am not sure what country you are in but am assuming Europe due to the use of the metric system. In The states we use span tables such as the "Sothern Pine" span tables because we use a lot of yellow pine for rafters and joists. So it depends on the material you are using but if it is No2 pine, your 5x30 cm is roughly equivalent to our 2"x 12'" and these will span 16' -5" or 5 meters with a 40/10 loading. But check out the span tables for the wood you are using and the dead and live loads to be applied www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SPtable2_060113.pdf I would google span tables for your local area because some municipalities have different loading requirements especially for roofs where snow loads differ. Floor loads are based on occupancy. Good luck :)
These span tables seem all complicated to me, i checked a lot of them, that's why i was looking for a ready approximate answer, the wood to be used is softwood.
@@triumfdula8830 They are complicated because there are many different uses and materials that can be used. So if it is soft wood you can use the No 2 column for 2" x 12"'s which is close to your 5x30 cm. I just realized your question is about rafters which I was thinking joists because my video was about jousts but let me check for rafters. I checked and 2" x 12" at 16" o/c will span 15'-6" with a load of 50/20. Again, this is something we figure out on every specific job so your may vary based on your local snow load? You can google "what is the snow load for X" where X is your city. If you will send me a request here atdrafting.com/request-for-service I can spend just a little time helping you but this is typically something I do for customers :)
@@ArtisanTony I googled rafters, they are pitched / sloped boards, actually i'm talking about horizontal boards wich relate more with joists according to google search, anyway, thanks a lot, i will try and see that 2 column at the table and i just send you a request as you recommended, thank you.
@@triumfdula8830 The way I usually help people is meet online and get an idea of what their project is. That is the best way I can help. Is you English pretty good? My Albanian and Serbian is not so good :) Or if you can draw a sketch of the floor with dimensions and email it to me, I have responded to your email so you will have mine.