Just wanted you/yall to know, you are highly appreciated in this household. These videos are priceless. We cant learn practical applications hardly anywhere else. It is unbelievable the knowledge you are sharing here. You teach the "why we do it this way part" Others can only say "Its just how its done" or "because its code". Ive had to go back and watch some of your videos 2 or 3 times.
Very impressed sir. Your knowledge of electrical systems and products is amazing. You're going to save me thousands. Wish you were my next door neighbor. A honest unbiased review is very rare on UA-cam.
I swore after I got a quote for $48,000 to do my house years ago with solar, that I would do it myself for 1/4 or less and then share how to do it to all I could share it with. So far, so good. Many sellers beg me to do reviews, then I send them improve, make better, lower price, or FIX IT request, those who listen get my time, those who don't I refuse to show them.
Best Line: Kiera vs John @ 24:53 I find your video promoting 12v systems over 48v pretty interesting... I am not 100% sold on it yet, but you do make some good points. You do use a LOT more current at the lower 12 volts.. which means you need a lot more copper... so, there are reasons to use the higher 48v systems other than storage reserve losses if you "lose" a battery. I do agree that a 12v system has fewer losses due to a loss of a battery in the parallel string. (But again, you need a good bit more copper). However with regard to the "math" as you point out, if you have 12 x 12v batteries, each 100 Amp hrs, used in parallel, you get 12 x 100 = 1200 Ah and the kWh = 12 x 12v * 100 = 14400 = 14.4 kWh (so far so good) Now, if you lose "1" battery, you lose only 1 battery in parallel, therefore your total capacity in kWh is 13.2 kWh. With a 24 volt system, you have to pair them up: So you start with 24v (per pair) x 6 pairs x 100 Ah per pair = 14.4 kWh. BUT, if you lose "1" battery, you lose a "pair", meaning you have 24v x 5 (not 6) x 100 = 12 kWh... If you use a 48V system, you lose a "quartet?" so, initially you would have 48v x 3sets x 100 = 14.4 kWh, Lose "1" battery, and you drop down to 2 quartets: 48v x 2 x 100 = 9.6 kWh... So your point is well taken. I suppose you could use a DC to DC to boost the voltage, or get an inverter with flexible 12 to 48 range input.
The 12 volt system and the 48 volt system do exactly the same thing for the same amounts of power in or out. The less Wire thing is hammered constantly but the power security is ignored. I have 12, 24 and 36 volt stuff. I did have a RV with a 48 volt system but all its parts were 25% more even though the wire was 25% less to cable it. However, your total wire was not equal in price to the 48 volt things you had to search and buy to run everything. Multiple 48 to 12 volt converters, expensive higher volt fuses, can't use auto fuse on 48V, all them are 3 to 32 volt rated. So you have give in all directions to the options of voltages. Not just wire gauge. But I can assure you, when you buy wire, its done. Not like a DC appliance or Inverter that dies and has to be replaced.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It is definitely something to think about. The typical "12 volt" fuse will be lower cost for sure. I did find marine grade DC Circuit Breakers for Auto/Marine/Solar 12-48V DC Manual Reset for 12 bucks... my guess is that it would probably work instead of a fuse, and it can be reset, which is pretty good to have. Thanks for the good advice, I might consider a 12v inverter in the future.
Excellent video my thoughts exactly. I have 16 lipo 4 diy batteries at 12 volts 280AH each. I run three 3000 watt renergy inverters so if any batteries fail the system keeps on running. I have also run 12 volts throughout the house to run LEDs and usb 5v for charging phones torches ect. Regards Stephen in Melbourne Australia.
Yep, it's The Official THE SCREW YOU STATE bumper sticker that I designed decades ago still stands true in 2024~ We take our insults to challengers very serious!
not only that there are some very good 12v fridges and freezers , theyre very efficient being Heavily insulated the compressor hardly ever kicks in, my freind finaly listened and bought a good used fridge he cant believe how little power it uses and its a big fridge
I have 5 of them. 3 running 24/7 for years now, one to travel with and one as a back up. All 3 running in the shop do not pull over 22 amps total when they do run, and none are small.
Hello good to see you guys put a video out thank you boy maid me think I thought I did good when I got 36 2v batterys maby you can do a video on charge controller pv in put i still didn't hook my system up scared to hook it up and fry something thanks again God bless and keep safe
You have a lot on your plate so take your time, get your parts to connect it all in modules. Send me a email with the battery specs, ratings and models. You can go to aliexpress and get you strong 1000+ amp switches s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCTUIcF , use them on each group as you go so you continually isolated as you build them. Be sure to set you up a good platform and put them in groups then on a small charger to keep them in prime condition as you move on with it.
Thank you what is the email address you want me to send it to also I picked up a large lot of electronics repair parts you may be able to use i can send a pic if you can use i will send it to you thanks again
24v x 100amp is 2400wats perfect to keep the curent down, and perfect for a 10amp 230v system here in norway. i personaly like 24v and 24v is not that dangerous as 48v. they use 24v in barns with animals so the animals are safe from tuching voltage if something goes wrong. see that 12v is your preference but for me the wires just become to befffy lol. 24v inverters are easy to get for trucks so you dont have to order one from the other side of the world. want more redundancy just use 12 50amph instead of 6 100amph same redundancy as the 12v system. for me 12v is good for max 1000w systems.
We run it all, I have 24 volt in 2 RV's and the water wells on the property, 12 volt in main shop system. 36 volt in Office, some refrigeration and security systems. Just no 48 and no plans for it. Number one reason is close friends 9 year old who will never be the same, she got popped with a 53 volt battery from a bike and it destroyed over 40% of her nervous system. Over 80% of DC voltage injury comes from over 40+ volt. And considering it is under 4% of the market that is substantial. Why go 48 anyhow, it is more expensive on the other parts, its a elite buyers choice and exceeds the waste $$ on wire for a 24 volt system. Prepper/survivalist voltage, 12 or 24. Commercial/marine/aeronautical voltage 24 and 36, rarely 48 or 60. But 48 is more a seller of niche materials voltage that is deadly. From that I started studying to learn the deadly DC voltage starts at 40+vdc and higher when it comes to mammals and 28vdc when it comes to aquatic animals ( you can not use higher than 12 volt lights in a fish farm or commercial fishery ).
58.0 but charge each one 14.6 with 20 to 40 amps till full before connecting to make your 48V. it'll assure your bms balancing gets right. To be honest, the TIME USB 230 is a better priced for 100% identical build! With $45 off and a 10% group discount, they are under $400 amzn.to/3KLYM8k
Have to disagree with you on the inverters. 48v makes less heat than 12v. Less amperage = less heat. Manufacturers have designed and accommodating for the FET curve on 48V units. I have side by side 2kw inverters one in 12V and one in 48V guess which cooling fans activate first? 12V every time. Guess which drains the same Ah rating battery faster on identical loads? 12V every time. DC not that dangerous at 48V. Unless you put both leads in your mouth lol
I think you should make that video with the 2 leads LOL! It would go viral! We helped care for a 9 year old seriously injured from a 48V bike battery, Electric go cart. Ankle to neck were the contact points. Half the nerves in her body are toast. Doubt she would agree with your put the leads in mouth plan. But unless you under gauge your 12v model and most do, it's core temps will be similar but not exceed the 48v and the reason the fans will always start first on a 12v is the settings from the manufacturer who already knows the 12v buyer is not experienced in most cases, will absolutely under gauge, under supply power, place it on low ventilated areas and create LV terminal and plate side heat. In reality the heat on a 48v comes from the transformers in a HF model due to the finer windings increase induction heating. In a LF model it is the magnetic induction heat ( GTE Support Bulletin for MCI Telecom ) ( think a induction cooktop, its a rectified 48 to 60v since that makes more winding frequency based heating ) and that type of heat unlike load response heat that comes and goes in 12 or 24v the 48 to 60 is constant due to being on, not even in use. This is why they put vertical/horizontal rules on their orientation for mounting ( see Victron, Sunny, Fangpusun and Fronius ) . They do not do that on the consumer grade 12 or 24v. Use a thermal camera, you will see the high side on the fet to the transformer is hotter then the other voltages. It's fans sensors are on the Boost Side Fet Bridge not the transformers so they would and do require higher chassis heat levels to kick on the fan. Outback does use IR optical sensors for the fans, so it's a much cooler running 48v model. The Same AH rating however would be 400ah for the 12V, 200ah for 24, and 100ah for 48v if your to making same wattage considerations. Not 100AH for 100AH.
HI JOHN PLS WORK OUT A SMALL SOLAR SYSTEM FOR ME IM FROM SOUTH AFRICA I WILL ORDER THE SWIPOWER 3200W INVERTER, IM THINK A 24V BATTERY JUST FOR MY HOME LIGHTS AND FREEZER WHAT WILL I NEED TO MAKE IT WORK WE USING 220 230 VOLTS AC. REGARDS DYLAN MEYER. OH I FORGOT ITS FOR PERMANENT USE
I know many in SA that are in a struggle on power, it will get much worse this year. Send me a Email with your plans and basic location for the best and cheapest way to do it. olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
Your seeking a 3200 watt with European voltage so be sure you pick right on the options. As for your basics, consider nothing less than 1400 watts of solar for 24 volt and using a quality 60 amp MPPT with no fans in it, like a SNRE made controller. Best outcome since the power system there is so unstable, is to use 3 of the 40 amp and 2100 watts incoming solar, 700w into each for 24 V with low stress on them. So you are safe redundant in power items but not sure you can get those in SA. As for batteries, careful on buying. The Chinese tend to crap on Africa. They send used cells to your area a lot. So, look into ordering on sites from Poland, Italy, or Saudi Arabia for the Batteries if you go LiFePO4. Also safest to order solar panels from Italy than most other places.
I was hoping it was a good comparison lesson. I hope to stop folks from going over 36 volts in such systems they DIY so they don't DIE! A bit of history, when I was a UDT they used 50V rod repel inductors on the hulls of Russian ships to stop frogs from putting mag charges on them. The people fighting the pirates in the Red Sea were trying to use the same, but the UN pissed a fit on it. Apparently the Somalis and Houthis got some special rights to the seas.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I run 48v, but the batteries have breaker switches to turn them completely off. Wiring live is potentially dangerous even with 12volts, a 1/2 inch wrench touching a wedding ring to the fender of a Chevy truck gave me a really bad day once. The voltage doesn’t matter if it’s turned off or protected from inexperienced people touching it. 240volts is in everyone’s home, so the danger is already present. I know to turn off the power before I change an outlet or a switch.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 the 48v server rack battery’s function the exactly the same as your 12v, just add another 48v battery, as many as you want just like the 12v. A battery with a built in breaker I can turn off is safer than dropping a 9/16 on a 36v golf cart pack I promise.
If your looking for free stuff I suggest you join all those programs they have for it. I get emails all the time offering to join them but you have to give them managerial control of your channel and sign all kinds of agreements to suck up to them. If your game, I say go for it. The best way is how I figured them out. Turn them down, counter offer them for a 70 to 80% off coupon code, tell them your gonna treat them right but honest and if they are REALLY quality stuff they will respond. The junk dealers that other video guys are always showing up with do so because those brands run the show and content. Your welcome to do that too, but it will bite you later like it has those guys. No one believes EVERY thing they show is best thing since sliced bread like they tell you. They do that due to being indebted to them sellers. I'll pass and remain a hard ass!
I love how when John is showing off his little 500W inverter, Kiera pulls out her 5000W monster! 😄
To think, I gave her 1/2 the entire property so she would never have to worry about a home, you'd think she would give me some slack!
Just wanted you/yall to know, you are highly appreciated in this household. These videos are priceless. We cant learn practical applications hardly anywhere else. It is unbelievable the knowledge you are sharing here. You teach the "why we do it this way part" Others can only say "Its just how its done" or "because its code". Ive had to go back and watch some of your videos 2 or 3 times.
Good to see you guys doing ok and making a video with always-educational content. Thanks, and be well.
Very impressed sir. Your knowledge of electrical systems and products is amazing. You're going to save me thousands. Wish you were my next door neighbor. A honest unbiased review is very rare on UA-cam.
I swore after I got a quote for $48,000 to do my house years ago with solar, that I would do it myself for 1/4 or less and then share how to do it to all I could share it with. So far, so good. Many sellers beg me to do reviews, then I send them improve, make better, lower price, or FIX IT request, those who listen get my time, those who don't I refuse to show them.
Thanks for the video! That WattCycle battery really is decent for the price!
Best Line: Kiera vs John @ 24:53
I find your video promoting 12v systems over 48v pretty interesting... I am not 100% sold on it yet, but you do make some good points. You do use a LOT more current at the lower 12 volts.. which means you need a lot more copper... so, there are reasons to use the higher 48v systems other than storage reserve losses if you "lose" a battery. I do agree that a 12v system has fewer losses due to a loss of a battery in the parallel string. (But again, you need a good bit more copper).
However with regard to the "math" as you point out, if you have 12 x 12v batteries, each 100 Amp hrs, used in parallel, you get 12 x 100 = 1200 Ah and the kWh = 12 x 12v * 100 = 14400 = 14.4 kWh (so far so good)
Now, if you lose "1" battery, you lose only 1 battery in parallel, therefore your total capacity in kWh is 13.2 kWh.
With a 24 volt system, you have to pair them up: So you start with 24v (per pair) x 6 pairs x 100 Ah per pair = 14.4 kWh.
BUT, if you lose "1" battery, you lose a "pair", meaning you have 24v x 5 (not 6) x 100 = 12 kWh...
If you use a 48V system, you lose a "quartet?" so, initially you would have 48v x 3sets x 100 = 14.4 kWh,
Lose "1" battery, and you drop down to 2 quartets: 48v x 2 x 100 = 9.6 kWh...
So your point is well taken. I suppose you could use a DC to DC to boost the voltage, or get an inverter with flexible 12 to 48 range input.
The 12 volt system and the 48 volt system do exactly the same thing for the same amounts of power in or out. The less Wire thing is hammered constantly but the power security is ignored. I have 12, 24 and 36 volt stuff. I did have a RV with a 48 volt system but all its parts were 25% more even though the wire was 25% less to cable it. However, your total wire was not equal in price to the 48 volt things you had to search and buy to run everything. Multiple 48 to 12 volt converters, expensive higher volt fuses, can't use auto fuse on 48V, all them are 3 to 32 volt rated. So you have give in all directions to the options of voltages. Not just wire gauge. But I can assure you, when you buy wire, its done. Not like a DC appliance or Inverter that dies and has to be replaced.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It is definitely something to think about. The typical "12 volt" fuse will be lower cost for sure. I did find marine grade DC Circuit Breakers for Auto/Marine/Solar 12-48V DC Manual Reset for 12 bucks... my guess is that it would probably work instead of a fuse, and it can be reset, which is pretty good to have. Thanks for the good advice, I might consider a 12v inverter in the future.
Thanks for the video. I was second guessing using a 12v system after I had already installed it, but this confirmed my build was best.
Good to see you two again, happy pops day! Keira got a great laugh!
Thanks for the video I enjoyed it.
Happy Father's Day
Excellent video my thoughts exactly. I have 16 lipo 4 diy batteries at 12 volts 280AH each. I run three 3000 watt renergy inverters so if any batteries fail the system keeps on running. I have also run 12 volts throughout the house to run LEDs and usb 5v for charging phones torches ect. Regards Stephen in Melbourne Australia.
Love your videos together, and love the bloopers!!!
28:27 ❤ the Texas sticker
Yep, it's The Official THE SCREW YOU STATE bumper sticker that I designed decades ago still stands true in 2024~
We take our insults to challengers very serious!
Awesome job.
not only that there are some very good 12v fridges and freezers , theyre very efficient being Heavily insulated the compressor hardly ever kicks in, my freind finaly listened and bought a good used fridge he cant believe how little power it uses and its a big fridge
I have 5 of them. 3 running 24/7 for years now, one to travel with and one as a back up. All 3 running in the shop do not pull over 22 amps total when they do run, and none are small.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 brilliant
The 5,000 watt inverter😂 she's so darn cute LOL
That inverter is protected by Smith and Wesson carried by the Missy. 😂
Hello good to see you guys put a video out thank you boy maid me think I thought I did good when I got 36 2v batterys maby you can do a video on charge controller pv in put i still didn't hook my system up scared to hook it up and fry something thanks again God bless and keep safe
You have a lot on your plate so take your time, get your parts to connect it all in modules. Send me a email with the battery specs, ratings and models. You can go to aliexpress and get you strong 1000+ amp switches s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCTUIcF , use them on each group as you go so you continually isolated as you build them. Be sure to set you up a good platform and put them in groups then on a small charger to keep them in prime condition as you move on with it.
Thank you what is the email address you want me to send it to also I picked up a large lot of electronics repair parts you may be able to use i can send a pic if you can use i will send it to you thanks again
You can send info to me at olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
24v x 100amp is 2400wats perfect to keep the curent down, and perfect for a 10amp 230v system here in norway. i personaly like 24v and 24v is not that dangerous as 48v. they use 24v in barns with animals so the animals are safe from tuching voltage if something goes wrong. see that 12v is your preference but for me the wires just become to befffy lol. 24v inverters are easy to get for trucks so you dont have to order one from the other side of the world. want more redundancy just use 12 50amph instead of 6 100amph same redundancy as the 12v system. for me 12v is good for max 1000w systems.
We run it all, I have 24 volt in 2 RV's and the water wells on the property, 12 volt in main shop system. 36 volt in Office, some refrigeration and security systems. Just no 48 and no plans for it. Number one reason is close friends 9 year old who will never be the same, she got popped with a 53 volt battery from a bike and it destroyed over 40% of her nervous system. Over 80% of DC voltage injury comes from over 40+ volt. And considering it is under 4% of the market that is substantial. Why go 48 anyhow, it is more expensive on the other parts, its a elite buyers choice and exceeds the waste $$ on wire for a 24 volt system. Prepper/survivalist voltage, 12 or 24. Commercial/marine/aeronautical voltage 24 and 36, rarely 48 or 60. But 48 is more a seller of niche materials voltage that is deadly.
From that I started studying to learn the deadly DC voltage starts at 40+vdc and higher when it comes to mammals and 28vdc when it comes to aquatic animals ( you can not use higher than 12 volt lights in a fish farm or commercial fishery ).
What’s LiTime 230ah x4 for 48v system proper top charge?
58.0 but charge each one 14.6 with 20 to 40 amps till full before connecting to make your 48V. it'll assure your bms balancing gets right. To be honest, the TIME USB 230 is a better priced for 100% identical build! With $45 off and a 10% group discount, they are under $400 amzn.to/3KLYM8k
Have to disagree with you on the inverters. 48v makes less heat than 12v. Less amperage = less heat. Manufacturers have designed and accommodating for the FET curve on 48V units. I have side by side 2kw inverters one in 12V and one in 48V guess which cooling fans activate first? 12V every time. Guess which drains the same Ah rating battery faster on identical loads? 12V every time.
DC not that dangerous at 48V. Unless you put both leads in your mouth lol
I think you should make that video with the 2 leads LOL! It would go viral! We helped care for a 9 year old seriously injured from a 48V bike battery, Electric go cart. Ankle to neck were the contact points. Half the nerves in her body are toast. Doubt she would agree with your put the leads in mouth plan.
But unless you under gauge your 12v model and most do, it's core temps will be similar but not exceed the 48v and the reason the fans will always start first on a 12v is the settings from the manufacturer who already knows the 12v buyer is not experienced in most cases, will absolutely under gauge, under supply power, place it on low ventilated areas and create LV terminal and plate side heat. In reality the heat on a 48v comes from the transformers in a HF model due to the finer windings increase induction heating. In a LF model it is the magnetic induction heat ( GTE Support Bulletin for MCI Telecom ) ( think a induction cooktop, its a rectified 48 to 60v since that makes more winding frequency based heating ) and that type of heat unlike load response heat that comes and goes in 12 or 24v the 48 to 60 is constant due to being on, not even in use. This is why they put vertical/horizontal rules on their orientation for mounting ( see Victron, Sunny, Fangpusun and Fronius ) . They do not do that on the consumer grade 12 or 24v. Use a thermal camera, you will see the high side on the fet to the transformer is hotter then the other voltages. It's fans sensors are on the Boost Side Fet Bridge not the transformers so they would and do require higher chassis heat levels to kick on the fan. Outback does use IR optical sensors for the fans, so it's a much cooler running 48v model.
The Same AH rating however would be 400ah for the 12V, 200ah for 24, and 100ah for 48v if your to making same wattage considerations. Not 100AH for 100AH.
HI JOHN PLS WORK OUT A SMALL SOLAR SYSTEM FOR ME IM FROM SOUTH AFRICA I WILL ORDER THE SWIPOWER 3200W INVERTER, IM THINK A 24V BATTERY JUST FOR MY HOME LIGHTS AND FREEZER WHAT WILL I NEED TO MAKE IT WORK WE USING 220 230 VOLTS AC. REGARDS DYLAN MEYER. OH I FORGOT ITS FOR PERMANENT USE
I know many in SA that are in a struggle on power, it will get much worse this year. Send me a Email with your plans and basic location for the best and cheapest way to do it. olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
THANK YOU SO MUCH JOHN
Your seeking a 3200 watt with European voltage so be sure you pick right on the options. As for your basics, consider nothing less than 1400 watts of solar for 24 volt and using a quality 60 amp MPPT with no fans in it, like a SNRE made controller. Best outcome since the power system there is so unstable, is to use 3 of the 40 amp and 2100 watts incoming solar, 700w into each for 24 V with low stress on them. So you are safe redundant in power items but not sure you can get those in SA. As for batteries, careful on buying. The Chinese tend to crap on Africa. They send used cells to your area a lot. So, look into ordering on sites from Poland, Italy, or Saudi Arabia for the Batteries if you go LiFePO4. Also safest to order solar panels from Italy than most other places.
I tried the Mountain DEW line up, one cell kept taking the whole thing down, turns out one was diet, not as much energy in diet mt. Dew 😂
I was hoping it was a good comparison lesson. I hope to stop folks from going over 36 volts in such systems they DIY so they don't DIE! A bit of history, when I was a UDT they used 50V rod repel inductors on the hulls of Russian ships to stop frogs from putting mag charges on them. The people fighting the pirates in the Red Sea were trying to use the same, but the UN pissed a fit on it. Apparently the Somalis and Houthis got some special rights to the seas.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I run 48v, but the batteries have breaker switches to turn them completely off. Wiring live is potentially dangerous even with 12volts, a 1/2 inch wrench touching a wedding ring to the fender of a Chevy truck gave me a really bad day once. The voltage doesn’t matter if it’s turned off or protected from inexperienced people touching it. 240volts is in everyone’s home, so the danger is already present. I know to turn off the power before I change an outlet or a switch.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 the 48v server rack battery’s function the exactly the same as your 12v, just add another 48v battery, as many as you want just like the 12v. A battery with a built in breaker I can turn off is safer than dropping a 9/16 on a 36v golf cart pack I promise.
Wish they would send me free stuff.
If your looking for free stuff I suggest you join all those programs they have for it. I get emails all the time offering to join them but you have to give them managerial control of your channel and sign all kinds of agreements to suck up to them. If your game, I say go for it. The best way is how I figured them out. Turn them down, counter offer them for a 70 to 80% off coupon code, tell them your gonna treat them right but honest and if they are REALLY quality stuff they will respond. The junk dealers that other video guys are always showing up with do so because those brands run the show and content. Your welcome to do that too, but it will bite you later like it has those guys. No one believes EVERY thing they show is best thing since sliced bread like they tell you. They do that due to being indebted to them sellers. I'll pass and remain a hard ass!