Great job, I never thought of making 2 boards with the same basic pattern, but, that's a great idea. I like that your wife is there with you. Again great job.
Hi, just in the process of making a similar chevron pattern board. I cut a 45° angle on my 6" pieces before glue up and made a simpler clamping jig. I like your choice of woods. Nice work.
Beautiful piece! Padauk is so beautiful and colorful, however turns brown if not protected with a UV protection? Do you know if the finish you applied provides this?
Good question! I don’t know about UV protection in the finish. So far, after 2 years the board is still very red. I think that may be due to being stored in a closed cabinet when not being used for dinners and parties. I also never use it for outdoor functions, so it doesn’t get a lot of direct sunlight.
Nice job, but I wonder about gluing side grain with “almost”end grain! Do you think the glue joint would hold up between chevron part and the parallel pieces?
Good question! The boards have stood up to lots of regular use and abuse at parties and dinners over the past two years. It seems to stand the test of time alright so far. I’m speculating, but using narrow strips of wood next to the chevrons seems to help with an end grain/side grain bond. When I clamp the strips together, I can see the thin, flexible strips bend and compress slightly around any imperfections in the two larger strips. I think that helps with the integrity of the glue up. No data to prove this, but I’ve seen the effect in lots of my boards.
I "scuff" the glue faces with my Dremel tool to create scratches for more glue surface. Don't go past the corner though as the nick would show up on the finished board.
Your vids are great! I like the way you both "narrate" over the vids. Only suggestion is to turn the music down . Looking forward to seeing more of your vids🤓👍
That’s a great question! The answer is a LOT of glue, clean cuts, and a little pressure. I’ve found the density of padauk makes up a bit for the expected weakness in the end grain.
If you take glue and wipe it into the end grain of both pieces and let it fully dry, you essentially seal up the end grain. Then you can successfully glue up end grain boards because now you are gluing up a solid filled area.
For the borders of each board, I used a mix of 1/4” and 1/8” strips of both oak and padauk. I just kind of mixed them until I found something I liked. The broader pieces of the large board are 2 1/2” each. For the smaller board, I didn’t measure anything. I just slapped together all the scraps I had until it looked good.
These boards are red oak. I don’t know if I’d use oak again with padauk. The open grain took in a lot of the padauk saw dust during sanding, and “smudged” It’s color. I’ve used maple with padauk for other projects since, and I’ve gotten a lot cleaner color contrast.
The board is quite good, but the carnauba wax is not approved for contact with food. For example, I use milk thistle oil, natural, virgin, organic. It is not very expensive and I immerse the entire cutting board in it for about an hour (about 3 l of oil). Dry wood will absorb the oil and remain protected for a long time. In addition, this oil is ecological and approved for contact with food.
That’s an interesting organic option! How long does it normally last. We used the Howard Products Butcher Block Conditioner specifically because it claims to be food grade. Maybe the ratio of oils and waxes could allow carnuba to be an approved ingredient? www.howardproducts.com/product/butcher-block-conditioner/
“POINT OF CONTINGENT. - The use of carnauba wax is recognizes as a food safe product by USA FDA..😂do a simple Google search to verify the same.. I have been using it for years. Nobody has croaked yet. What is your reference to say that the wax is not food safe?
Looks like Howard's Cutting Board Oil. It's great stuff and survives several washings but will need re-application fairly regularly. If I give a board to somebody who I know is going to use soap on it, I'll also gift them a bottle of Howard's. Your English is good enough to get your questions across and that's awesome progress!
Great job, I never thought of making 2 boards with the same basic pattern, but, that's a great idea. I like that your wife is there with you. Again great job.
This is AMAZING. Such beautiful boards, so well produced, and such personable stars!!
Hi, just in the process of making a similar chevron pattern board. I cut a 45° angle on my 6" pieces before glue up and made a simpler clamping jig. I like your choice of woods. Nice work.
Both of them are AWESOME again !!!!
0:47 we leave waste side on the left so the cut off piece doesn't hit the fence and run into the blade and shoot across the room.
That's a great looking board!
man those are really nice. thanks for the video.
Thanks so much!
Hard no on the commentary. But you’re lovely people.
very nice
Beautiful piece! Padauk is so beautiful and colorful, however turns brown if not protected with a UV protection? Do you know if the finish you applied provides this?
Good question! I don’t know about UV protection in the finish. So far, after 2 years the board is still very red. I think that may be due to being stored in a closed cabinet when not being used for dinners and parties. I also never use it for outdoor functions, so it doesn’t get a lot of direct sunlight.
Nice job, but I wonder about gluing side grain with “almost”end grain! Do you think the glue joint would hold up between chevron part and the parallel pieces?
Good question! The boards have stood up to lots of regular use and abuse at parties and dinners over the past two years. It seems to stand the test of time alright so far. I’m speculating, but using narrow strips of wood next to the chevrons seems to help with an end grain/side grain bond. When I clamp the strips together, I can see the thin, flexible strips bend and compress slightly around any imperfections in the two larger strips. I think that helps with the integrity of the glue up. No data to prove this, but I’ve seen the effect in lots of my boards.
I "scuff" the glue faces with my Dremel tool to create scratches for more glue surface. Don't go past the corner though as the nick would show up on the finished board.
Great job they look great. what thickness did you start with and what was the final thickness
Started with stock that was almost 1”, and the whole piece finished just a bit under 3/4”
@@makewhatnow5461 Thank you
Your vids are great! I like the way you both "narrate" over the vids. Only suggestion is to turn the music down . Looking forward to seeing more of your vids🤓👍
In this case, the music wasn't too loud, so it's alright.
Fantástico
end grain to end grain glue up is the weakess join, what did you do to prevent the chevron glue line to fail? (dowels, biscuits?)
That’s a great question! The answer is a LOT of glue, clean cuts, and a little pressure. I’ve found the density of padauk makes up a bit for the expected weakness in the end grain.
If you take glue and wipe it into the end grain of both pieces and let it fully dry, you essentially seal up the end grain. Then you can successfully glue up end grain boards because now you are gluing up a solid filled area.
Do you have a cut list for all the pieces, not just the 6 inch chevfons?
For the borders of each board, I used a mix of 1/4” and 1/8” strips of both oak and padauk. I just kind of mixed them until I found something I liked. The broader pieces of the large board are 2 1/2” each. For the smaller board, I didn’t measure anything. I just slapped together all the scraps I had until it looked good.
We’re you not concerned with the end grain being glued to long grain?
That’s a great question! It’s been over a year since making the board, and we haven’t seen any delamination yet.
very nice, is it white oak or red oak?
These boards are red oak. I don’t know if I’d use oak again with padauk. The open grain took in a lot of the padauk saw dust during sanding, and “smudged”
It’s color. I’ve used maple with padauk for other projects since, and I’ve gotten a lot cleaner color contrast.
did you use white oak or red oak?
Red oak for this one. It’s readily available where I am vs white oak.
The board is quite good, but the carnauba wax is not approved for contact with food. For example, I use milk thistle oil, natural, virgin, organic. It is not very expensive and I immerse the entire cutting board in it for about an hour (about 3 l of oil). Dry wood will absorb the oil and remain protected for a long time. In addition, this oil is ecological and approved for contact with food.
That’s an interesting organic option! How long does it normally last. We used the Howard Products Butcher Block Conditioner specifically because it claims to be food grade. Maybe the ratio of oils and waxes could allow carnuba to be an approved ingredient? www.howardproducts.com/product/butcher-block-conditioner/
“POINT OF CONTINGENT. - The use of carnauba wax is recognizes as a food safe product by USA FDA..😂do a simple Google search to verify the same.. I have been using it for years. Nobody has croaked yet. What is your reference to say that the wax is not food safe?
"I always like two things" ......that's what she said :)
Amazing job. Shat commentary..because we all want a condescending voice going over work they didnt lift a finger on
Excellent job now build yourself an outfeed table
Very soon! New shop is under construction
name oil?( sory not good english)
Looks like Howard's Cutting Board Oil. It's great stuff and survives several washings but will need re-application fairly regularly. If I give a board to somebody who I know is going to use soap on it, I'll also gift them a bottle of Howard's. Your English is good enough to get your questions across and that's awesome progress!
Skillful excellent video. Narration let it down though. Music was aweful and way too loud