Answering La Sportiva Questions YOU Want To Know... | Climbing Daily Ep.1909
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2024
- During the La Sportiva Athlete meeting, we sat down with Marketing manager Francesco Delladio to ask him the La Sportiva questions no one knows. From sizing to availability and specialized shoes for the Olympics, we get a unique insight into this legendary brand...
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Nice one, thx! And by the way, from my point of view, only LaSportiva sizes properly. Models are given in mm/cm and in street shoes I usually tend to have 1-1.5cm of free space. In LaSpo climbing shoes I go down 1.5-2 sizes, equal to 1.5-2cm, which makes sense. In contrast, an Evolv shoe that crunches my toes in my street shoe size while stating it is 1.5cm longer than my feet does not make sense at all.
Always in for my climbing shoe nerdery, Matt and crew. Cheers!
I would have loved to ask him if they would consider making the Genius in a more appealing color way-oh, and to bring back the Kataki
La Sportiva sizing actually matches the cm they state. My feet are 25,1 cm long and I wear 39 (aka 25 cm) climbing shoes. In street shoes I wear a 41 (as I want a bit of space around my toes) and hiking boot even larger (42 - 42,5) ... so theoretically they have the most accurate sizing
Where do I find that chart that shows where each shoe fits in the range? Would be handy to have
Sportiva sizing is like boulder grades, made up numbers
Every grade is a made up number
At least they didn't change it, ever, so if you know "your" La Sportiva climbing shoe size, every model fits (+-0,5 EU, and also if the model fits your foot)
@@philipppuchner1115 Yea its always been like 2,5 EU sizes down, sometimes 3. Depends how tight you wear your street shoes ofc.
@@alexbarcovsky4319 Me too 2,5 EU sizes down. Just the good old yellow Katana Velcro and the Skwama (Women's model for me) i take another hlaf size less, so -3,0 EU sizes.
Sadly, Sportiva makes the newer "women's" models just up to 42. And my right foot is exactly 45,5! Therefore... i have Skwama Women's in 41,5 for my left 44-44,5 foot and 42 for my 45,5 right foot. That is even 3,5 sizes down! It is ok for some time, but really: This half number less would be so perfect, but Sportiva doesn't make them above 42!
The Otaki Women's they make up to 43, but evey women's model after that just until 42 sadly.
My only dream to climb mt.kailash.
4:08 Left to right that picture is fine, but up and down that is totally off imo. Cobra, miura (and more or less also testarossa) are thin shoes like katana and otaki/kataki/skwama are the widest shoes i have ever put on my feet. Im quite certain that otaki&kataki, genius&futura are literally the exact same shoe except one has laces the other velcro. Yet look how far apart they are from each other.
It says "volume" and not narrow to wide toe boxes and this is absolutely correct!
Example: The Otaki has a wider toe box than the Miura VS, but the Miura VS has a much higher toe box (and therefore higher angled toes) and so more total Volume.
For my feeling the absolute widest La Sportiva climbing shoe is the normal Skwama. Way too wide for me + way too much volume in the heels.
Since I had all sportiva climbing shoes on my feet (and half of them also really climbed in), i can basically confirm the picture what volume is concerned.
Genius hab a wider toe box than Futura and a higher angled one. In total: way more volume. The Speedster is "larger" in any direction.
Solution, Katana Laces, Kataki have basically the same volume, yes. Futura a little bit less than those models, yes.
Where i cannot give you any opinion is on the down right corner and what all those xyz-gym shoes is concerned.
That beeing said, I own pairs of Mythos and even a pair of Tarantulas too (resoled with full length Vibram XS Edge for toprope solo climbing when it is hot outside).
@@philipppuchner1115 so when the graph makes sense they make beginner shoes with high toe boxes like in testarossa? :) Theory and skwama having the same "volume" you talking about? Miura laces and velcro are that much apart? Cmon, you can not be serious mate
@@tiamat87 No. The high angled toes (forgive my english) have nothing to do with the overall volume of the shoe. it was more like a side info from me. But there is a connection. For example: The no edge models. From Futura to Genius to Speedster, every model gets a wider and wider toe box and higher angled toes than the previous one.
Have you had your feet inside Miura Laces AND Miura VS right after another? Yes, the Miura VS has MUCH more "space" (aka volume) than the Lace up! The VS is "higher" and wider, therefore: way more volume! I can fit inside the Futura, but it is on the edge. Miura Laces are too small for me (not enough volume).
Otaki and Skwama: Both have flat toe boxes, but the Skwama is even wieder, so in total has a bit more volume.
Mythos: Is anywhere in the range of the Python, Cobra, whatever shoes, is imho a little bit narrower but due to the lacing the upper part of the shoe could fit a little bit more foot (more volume) insode.
The beginner shoes to the right have just "volume". How much the toes get knuckled up jus tdepends on how small you wanna put them on your feet. But in genereal they are flat shoes.
Since i don't know the Finale Lace up, I am not aware that the Lace Up has so much less volume than the VS. maybe because you can really cinch it down to your foot? ;)
The Testarossa: Since it is wider than the Miura VS and has also quite some volume, i would give it a bit more volume than Miura VS in total.
Especially since i have the feeling that the Miura VS has gotten a little narrower over time (new shoes of course) and the brand new Testarossa is even bigger/larger/has more space than the previous model.
Again, all the -gym and beginner models i don't know, since i haven't had them on my feet.
What pants is Matt wearing, anyone know?
shop.epictv.co.uk/en/trousers/so-solid/solid-rock-pants?domain_redirected=1
They need to never move their shoe production out of that valley.
It would be nice if La sportiva had some more Vegan friendly shoes!
They do. Look up the cobra eco!
@@matteosaccarola745 the cobra eco isn't vegan it uses a suede leather upper
Great vid! I find funny how Italians randomly finish many english words with an A "it is a great-A thing-A"
Love his accent 😆
in those valleys in Trentino where la sportiva is producing, very easy to find such genuine and authentic people. not such good English but a lot of know how.