Great job piecing this bike together. Good advice on using quality parts. Keep an eye on the all ballz seals. I’ve seen them ghost early in mileage/hours on both race bikes and trail bikes. You can’t go wrong with OEM seals. Rubber down bubble up. 👊🏽✊🏽🤘🏽
I'd read that about the AB seals as well, going to keep an eye on them. Was on a budget since I was doing it all together, but next time they need done I'll definitely go OEM.
Just so everyone knows, before buying any used components on ebay, remember that they're being sold for two reasons. 1-they're stolen parts or 2-they come off a crashed unit. Either way all components, axles, rims, rotors fork tubes, steering stems, crowns and main frames and tail section/sub frames should be checked for straightness from professionals. Dr John's Motorcycle Frame Straightening are the only ones I've trusted for almost 40 years. Dial indicators will tell deflection more than your eyeball. They have the tooling specific to all differences in any components. They are located in Anaheim, Ca. Be smart, be safe! One issue not addressed in this video is the speedometer drive. In order to have a functional speedometer you can't use a front end off any GSXR later than 1995 as the later ones take the speed drive off the counter shaft sprocket. If you do use a later one you'll have to drive the speedometer off the rear wheel, there literally no space on the GSXR front end after 96. Driving off the rear is possible but takes professional machine work as the axle may need to be modified, the swing arm may need to be modified, certainly some degree of fabrication expertise is required. It is not just a bolt on situation. Think and plan it out before jumping in, because it could en up turning your bike into junk and unusable.
True that one should check their parts, but actually, I know a few guys who bought old bikes for projects/conversions and sold the bits they didn't need on ebay... in fact often making a bit of money to fund the rest of the project on selling the remaining parts. That's actually another valid approach, if you have the space to store a half-disassembled bike until it's sold: Say you needed a GSX-R fork for this conversion, I'd actually recommend shopping for an entire GSX-R with "engine damage" - sometimes it's even fixable easy, so you may have an entire engine to sell off - of at least parts that are still ok, such as intake etc. And you can sit on the bike, maybe take it for a spin, so you can certainly check quite well if the forks are sticking anywhere.
Stock style radiator, picked it up on eBay, don’t remember how much, Google is your friend. Didn’t come with the radiator accoutrements (fan, fan shroud, horn, wiring) so I had to buy those separate. Mad8V may have a used one in stock, with it without the fan/shroud/horn.
Thanks! All Balls fork seals were garbage and blew after less than 1k miles. Rebuilt with stock and holding strong, but I don't ride as often as I'd like. Front brake discs were warped, replaced with newer ones that made the brakes better. Stock GSXR front master cylinder on this model was recalled, this one was apparently never fixed so it's got a really long stroke to brake pressure and has to be bled all the time. Will replace w/ a better unit when I'm able (read: do this to begin with). All great otherwise, feels much more planted than stock, especially once I got the setting dialed in.
@@drew657 yeah, you are a legend. Thanks so much for your detailed response. Really cool design and inspiration for your bike! I imagine if I just swap like this or had a project bike it may just have to be a situation where everything is bought piece by piece. Did you continue with the Arduino custom display?
@@forgiven88 Buying a front end piece by piece will probably be more expensive than picking up a whole front end and then fixing/upgrading the things that you need. I ran the Arduino gauges for a while, and actually had I working pretty well but being exposed to the elements, it broke reasonably often and I had to keep rebuilding it so I abandoned it. I eventually got a 3d printer and tried to build a case for it, but it turned out to be more than I wanted to deal with. Currently planning on putting a Motogadget unit on at some point.
Great tip! My issue with these mirrors is just the cheap design and my cheap install. The rubber plug was actually way too big to fit inside my bars to begin with, so I chucked it up in my drill and ran it over some rough sandpaper to bring down the diameter. Went a bit too far, but it also glazed the rubber. Going to upgrade to some higher-quality mirrors this season.
@@drew657 hey I swapped a gxsr front end on my fz1. what brake cables are you running? The poem gsxr brake cables are too short for handle bars versus clip-ons
@@jettran4465 As I said in the video, the links to parts I used are in the description. I'm not sure if I said it in the video, but I used a pair of Galfer stainless lines for a naked 2nd gen (2003+) SV650, and with my setup with the bar riser, they were juuuust a touch too short. They reach just fine, but are just starting to have tension on them when I lift the front wheel off the ground and the fork fully extends. Best bet is to measure with a piece of rope and order custom length lines from Galfer. They have an order sheet where you can specify what length, color, and end fittings you want that's really easy to use, and they were really responsive to my emails when I was trying to decide whether to go with custom or stock SV length.
@@jettran4465 IIRC, the pricing is on the custom order sheet, and it's roughly the same as getting their pre-fabbed lines, depending on what options you go for. You'll have to contact them and ask about a timeline, I went with their pre-made naked SV650 lines, which were juuuust barely long enough to get to the left caliper. If I were to do this again, I'd custom order a set. The length will also depend on what bars you go with.
We had the 250 here too. With enough fabrication it'll go on anything. It's not going to be a bolt-on job, and I'm sure there are better, more cost-effective front suspension upgrades for the CBR250/300. www.cbr250.net/threads/racetech-spring-and-emulator-valve-install.6065/
Great job piecing this bike together. Good advice on using quality parts. Keep an eye on the all ballz seals. I’ve seen them ghost early in mileage/hours on both race bikes and trail bikes. You can’t go wrong with OEM seals. Rubber down bubble up. 👊🏽✊🏽🤘🏽
I'd read that about the AB seals as well, going to keep an eye on them. Was on a budget since I was doing it all together, but next time they need done I'll definitely go OEM.
this is such a cool build!
I’m literally building the same bike. I’m also doing a custom tile section and aluminum subframe to lighten it up a little bit more
I’d like to make a custom half fairing, but that’ll be years down the road when I have a better garage space and can learn some metal working skills.
Would love to see some more of these videos mate. You are very good on the camera and your way of explaining things is great!
Headlight setup and super long throttle cables are quite an eye sore lol
Happily for you, you won't ever have to be seen on it!
The AR500 steel plate on the headlight does lookkinda ridiculous ngl but it isnt mine so eh
Just so everyone knows, before buying any used components on ebay, remember that they're being sold for two reasons. 1-they're stolen parts or 2-they come off a crashed unit. Either way all components, axles, rims, rotors fork tubes, steering stems, crowns and main frames and tail section/sub frames should be checked for straightness from professionals. Dr John's Motorcycle Frame Straightening are the only ones I've trusted for almost 40 years. Dial indicators will tell deflection more than your eyeball. They have the tooling specific to all differences in any components. They are located in Anaheim, Ca. Be smart, be safe! One issue not addressed in this video is the speedometer drive. In order to have a functional speedometer you can't use a front end off any GSXR later than 1995 as the later ones take the speed drive off the counter shaft sprocket. If you do use a later one you'll have to drive the speedometer off the rear wheel, there literally no space on the GSXR front end after 96. Driving off the rear is possible but takes professional machine work as the axle may need to be modified, the swing arm may need to be modified, certainly some degree of fabrication expertise is required. It is not just a bolt on situation. Think and plan it out before jumping in, because it could en up turning your bike into junk and unusable.
Or OR the seller replaced with something better and doesnt want to keep stock of the old one.
True that one should check their parts, but actually, I know a few guys who bought old bikes for projects/conversions and sold the bits they didn't need on ebay... in fact often making a bit of money to fund the rest of the project on selling the remaining parts. That's actually another valid approach, if you have the space to store a half-disassembled bike until it's sold: Say you needed a GSX-R fork for this conversion, I'd actually recommend shopping for an entire GSX-R with "engine damage" - sometimes it's even fixable easy, so you may have an entire engine to sell off - of at least parts that are still ok, such as intake etc. And you can sit on the bike, maybe take it for a spin, so you can certainly check quite well if the forks are sticking anywhere.
thank you fam!
Thanks for the vid!
Great video
The front indicators on forks is something iv never seen. I like it but isn't the headlight shroud obscuring them ?
Looks awesome, you going to try taking it off road?
No, just staying on-road and some track days this year
What about the radiator. Where did you get it and how much.
Stock style radiator, picked it up on eBay, don’t remember how much, Google is your friend. Didn’t come with the radiator accoutrements (fan, fan shroud, horn, wiring) so I had to buy those separate. Mad8V may have a used one in stock, with it without the fan/shroud/horn.
So cool dude! Any updates?
Thanks! All Balls fork seals were garbage and blew after less than 1k miles. Rebuilt with stock and holding strong, but I don't ride as often as I'd like. Front brake discs were warped, replaced with newer ones that made the brakes better. Stock GSXR front master cylinder on this model was recalled, this one was apparently never fixed so it's got a really long stroke to brake pressure and has to be bled all the time. Will replace w/ a better unit when I'm able (read: do this to begin with). All great otherwise, feels much more planted than stock, especially once I got the setting dialed in.
@@drew657 yeah, you are a legend. Thanks so much for your detailed response. Really cool design and inspiration for your bike! I imagine if I just swap like this or had a project bike it may just have to be a situation where everything is bought piece by piece. Did you continue with the Arduino custom display?
@@forgiven88 Buying a front end piece by piece will probably be more expensive than picking up a whole front end and then fixing/upgrading the things that you need.
I ran the Arduino gauges for a while, and actually had I working pretty well but being exposed to the elements, it broke reasonably often and I had to keep rebuilding it so I abandoned it. I eventually got a 3d printer and tried to build a case for it, but it turned out to be more than I wanted to deal with. Currently planning on putting a Motogadget unit on at some point.
just use paper or beer cans (use metal cutting shears if you can) to shim the bar mirrors
Great tip! My issue with these mirrors is just the cheap design and my cheap install. The rubber plug was actually way too big to fit inside my bars to begin with, so I chucked it up in my drill and ran it over some rough sandpaper to bring down the diameter. Went a bit too far, but it also glazed the rubber. Going to upgrade to some higher-quality mirrors this season.
@@drew657 hey I swapped a gxsr front end on my fz1. what brake cables are you running? The poem gsxr brake cables are too short for handle bars versus clip-ons
@@jettran4465 As I said in the video, the links to parts I used are in the description. I'm not sure if I said it in the video, but I used a pair of Galfer stainless lines for a naked 2nd gen (2003+) SV650, and with my setup with the bar riser, they were juuuust a touch too short. They reach just fine, but are just starting to have tension on them when I lift the front wheel off the ground and the fork fully extends. Best bet is to measure with a piece of rope and order custom length lines from Galfer. They have an order sheet where you can specify what length, color, and end fittings you want that's really easy to use, and they were really responsive to my emails when I was trying to decide whether to go with custom or stock SV length.
@@drew657 how long did it take to get gafler to make the lines and the cost. They don’t publicly list their pricings.
@@jettran4465 IIRC, the pricing is on the custom order sheet, and it's roughly the same as getting their pre-fabbed lines, depending on what options you go for. You'll have to contact them and ask about a timeline, I went with their pre-made naked SV650 lines, which were juuuust barely long enough to get to the left caliper. If I were to do this again, I'd custom order a set. The length will also depend on what bars you go with.
Can you fit the fork on cbr250r, or cbr300r if ur American
We had the 250 here too. With enough fabrication it'll go on anything. It's not going to be a bolt-on job, and I'm sure there are better, more cost-effective front suspension upgrades for the CBR250/300.
www.cbr250.net/threads/racetech-spring-and-emulator-valve-install.6065/
I heard, this gsxr susp is very ugh.. 😬
Do you like it?
Feels pretty planted, much more adjustability. Beats the hell out of the stock SV650 fork.
Dude headlights and cables
1400 ain’t bad if that includes labor.