The 2-4 Clutch seal is called an accumulator by Chrysler. Part # for mine was 5078864AA. My parts guy couldn't find it under the other name. Be sure to have the dealer look yours up by the VIN number. Thanks for the great video. I'm a tech with 40 years of experience and it saved me the headache of chasing little balls around, or worse, leaving them out. You do need to perform a quick learn after you are done. That requires a higher end scanner.
Easier way: run the trans to full temp, check it hot, running, in neutral. 2” on the stick - any stick will work. I use one of those oversized 3 foot zip ties (home depot, electrical dept) because they are white so the fluid shows up, and those little corrugations in a zip tie hold fluid and make it easy to read. 2”, done.
Thanks for the tip. This video was done years ago before most of us figure out how to get around this procedure. I don't see why Chrysler couldn't provide a dip stick. I guess they want to service the vehicle and rip you off.
What if my transmission shifts fine sometimes and then it only stays in third, turn it off and on a couple of times then it shifts fine again..! Anybody had that happened
This happened to my Routan. We changed the transmission fluid and filter. No problems. However, I was told if that didn't work, it could be a faulty solenoid, a bad connection, a failing ECM... Its best to have the vehicle fully scanned to know for sure
I replaced my solenoid but I think I went wrong with the manual lever somewhere because I don't get anything on the first shit but the second will go to park, the third neutral and then I can't shift anymore.
Good try but no. That is not true. Scotty videos are generic and not tailored to a specific car. It's mostly tips and money saving strategies. He will say "this is how to do this to your car", assuming everybody drives a Toyota. You got to give it to the man. He is a success and he make you laugh.
Hi ... I replace the selenoide pack in a Dakota 2006 2w/d The codes desapear drive ok But i the reverse dont work now Before with the old selenoide was working ok What could be the prblem?
Sorry, I don't know...I would start by checking the linkage. Making sure when the cable is pulled, or push it actually actuate what need to put the transmission is reverse (example the pin on the valve body)
Thanks, very well done and comprehensive video. If I've recently changed the fluid and filter in the bottom pan, do I have to drain it again to do the solenoid pack swap? And is it advisable to replace the TCC solenoid while in there, or anything else that could be a problem in the future? Thanks in advance and appreciate the vids
I ran into a issue where after reinstalling the valve body with new solenoid pack on it, I am unable to move the shifter from park, it seems stuck. Any idea as to what I can do? I made sure the pin on the range switch was installed on valve body when I put it back on.
Disconnect the cable at the manual lever, then try to move the stick. If it still cannot move, the problem is power not getting to the shift lock solenoid. Recheck any harness that was disconnect, dead battery, wrong key, etc. If this is a minivan you can override the lockout by plucking out the tab next to the gear lever then put a pen or screw driver into the hole. Push down while at the same time move the lever out of park. If this was successfully then the problem is not with the transmission. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@pnswg01 I appreciate the response. I have not reconnected the battery yet, I just checking it before reinstalling the valve body pan cover to make sure I had the detent arm correctly reinstalled and such. I'll try the override
Thanks for your video, I was able to successfully replace the solenoid pack. I had a P0765 code which prompted me to pursue changing it. Now that everything is reassembled, the van starts up in limp mode and the same code has returned. The P0765 is the only code shown. What else can I try? Is it a wiring defect somewhere? Thanks again
Did you change the complete solenoid pack? There are detection circuits built onto the solenoid pack. Most time the problem is there and not the solenoids themselves. Even when you measure the solenoid and the value measured is good, the pack still don't work. Additionally when the ECU send the signal to operate the solenoid it also measure the voltage drop, if it's too much (resistance too low), the code P0765 is stored.
Valve body probably restricting fluid flow. These days, its cheap to just change both for a rebuild unit. (valve body with solenoid pack). ** JUST MY OPINION **, Their detection method is too sensitive throwing the transmission into limp mode.
@@pnswg01 is it sensitive to fluid level? I haven't checked and added fluid since the repair, I did not drop the bottom pan as I did a fluid and filter change prior to this job recently.
@@YaCatIsBizarre Yes it is sensitive to fluid level. Any of the following cause... Insufficient fluid level Dirty or contaminated fluid Dirty or clogged transmission filter Defective transmission valve body Restricted hydraulic passages Transmission has internal failure Faulty shift solenoid Corroded or damaged connector Faulty or damaged wiring Faulty PCM
First make sure your transmission is model number 62TE. The 62TE listed as having 6 speeds so if yours has 4 speeds then you have a different transmission.
@@pnswg01 Thanks for the tip. Everything I can find online shows that the Routan has the 62TE transmission. I suppose I will use a parts source that will let me return it if it's the wrong one.
@@mvsawyer If your Routan has manual gear mode, use that to check how many gears your transmission have. While driving (selector in "D" position) move the stick to the right. (It will spring back) The transmission should now go into manual mode and the display now change from showing PRND to 1 2 3 4 5 6, with the current gear highlighted. Each push right should go up one gear, and left down one gear. The display should tell you which gear you are in. 1 2 3 4 5 6. If you don't have manual mode, or you don't have 6 available gears then you don't have a 62TE transmission. Hope this help.
The TCC solenoid is not in the solenoid pack. It is the topmost one mounted to the valve body. There are two version of this video. It is labeled in the final version.
@@pnswg01 right, I watched both and did comparisons between google, your video, and alldata. Looks like I can open the valve body pan and get out that solenoid with one of those stupid star bits. Thanks for the reply bud, great video!
@@adventureoflinkmk2 If you recently change the oil and filter, you can change that solenoid without draining the oil. (The oil will drain down to the oil pan)
@@pnswg01 was gonna say it's been a few days since I changed the fluid and filter. I got my check engine read the other day and gave me that code Even so, the old fluid was black and dirty.. I'd need to change it again anyway
@@pnswg01 I did replace S-pack because my 2012 Grand Caravan dropped into limp mode with a P0755 code. Bust after a day it failed again with the same code P0755. What do you think could be the problem?
. Assuming you change the oil and filter. It could be a bad valve body or defective solenoid pack. Or even dirty fluid still in the valve body/transmission. Check out Big Sky Engines LLC. In Buffalo NY. They have a store on EBay. You can get a remanufactured valve body with solenoid pack for 124.00. Just pop in and go. You cannot beat that price for both. I was skeptical, but they work.
@@pnswg01 Cool, I changed the oil & filter 3 times now this year and there is always metal dust stuck to the magnet. Is this normal and what is the best way to flush out the complete transmission system?
@@primalbiz That depends on how much metal dust you see. It is normal to see some metal dust, not chunks of metal. As for the flush, I don't know. I am not a transmission guy. I just happen to do a couple of these. To clean the valve body you would have to open it up and clean out the passages.
@@Tmil1035 It is just for maintenance. You already in that location and the part cost $8.00. Rubber seal don't last a lifetime. If it fail at some point down the road, you will have to do all that work to change a simple $8.00 seal. Answer 2: For the same reason you change your good working water pump and pulleys when changing your timing belt.
The part number may change from the time of making this video. It is better getting the valve body with the solenoid pack already mounted. Try a Chrysler dealer for the part number then buy from somewhere else. There are a lot of remanufactured units out there.
Hi. I write from Germany. My Chrysler have big problem with the 6 Gear. I can drive in 5 Gears, but not in the 6te. In 6. Gear comes the engine lamp. And I have a trouble code P0729. I buy this car in winter from a privat person and the problem comes 100km after buying. She says, the oil and filter is new. I start now with new oil and new filter. Same problem. At next, I make the input and output speed sensor new, also the transfer shaft speed sensor. - same problem with sixt gear. Now I repaired the solenoid Block. It's new and the part under this. All new. (I found not the English name :)) You have a idea, what's the problem with my trans axle? The German mechanic in my neighborhood have no interest in American cars and nobody help me. I hope, I hear from you. My English is so bad. Best wishes and stay save, Daniel.
I really appreciate the detail in the video like others have mentioned. I watched 4 or 5 other videos before coming across yours. All were similar, but you went more in-depth. Especially regarding the check balls in valve body, could have been worse if I hadn't known about them. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video to share with all of us!
That is the way UA-cam algorithm works. This was the first video on this subject yet has the least amount of views. Two versions of it. This is the final version. Other videos don't even bother with illustrations which take more time to do. Overall this is more of a slide than a video but it gets the point it's trying to show. For me, it doesn't worth my time to make videos anymore. Thanks for watching...
Sorry, it's been a long time since I made that video. I should have included the part numbers. I went to the dealer with the old one in my hand. They didn't know what it was even though I showed it to them. They showed me an exploded view of the transmission and I pointed it out. They got the number from there.
Dorman sells a good reman for under $150. You are making the fluid check harder than it needs to be. At temp in neutral, it should read 2” on a stick - any stick. I painted a junker dipstick with liquid paper to make it white and easy to read.
Hi; Patrick this is Simon I need help getting two parts O-rings for all transfer tubes, new clutch oil seal and do the valve body need to be changed? 2011 dodge grand caravan Mainstreet 3.6 codes PO 733, PO83B, PO 868, PO 732 and PO 944
I don't have the time right now to look for the meaning of all those codes. If you get a good deal for the valve body and solenoid pack together then do that. (re-manufactured, or new) . It kind of make sense if you don't know how to rebuild the valve body. Both parts will be new or functioning like new. It is also easier to swap out. O-Rings and clutch seal are dealer items.
Great video! I did this job recently on a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country a few things that I would like to add that might help someone stuck or frustrated, there is a piece of exhaust pipe that runs right off the front manifold and right over top of the pan that needs to be removed, what I did that made it easier for me was remove the manifold and the two 13mm bolts in the front then follow the pipe back and there will be 2 more 13mm bolts behind the engine just remove the top on, once you remove it you can grab the exhaust pipe and pull it up out of the way. Also another thing I did was cut the tube shorter that’s on the backside of the pan, this is the fill tube that goes down inside the transmission pan below to check your fluid, don’t cut it all the way off just cut it maybe 2 inches shorter made it so much easier to put back on. As far as transmission fluid goes I started out with the 4.5 quarts i ended up adding about 9 total the 4.5 I started with was not enough and was making the transmission act up, once the right amount of fluid was added it was good as new, you can use your oil dipstick to check your fluid you’ll just need a ruler or tape measure to measure out and mark your dipstick there is a how to video on here for that as well.
How is the transmission now? My van had the P0755 code, had all the work done in this video plus the sensors on the solenoid and now the van is at a trans shop for a complete rebuild because this helped, but not fully.
The 2-4 Clutch seal is called an accumulator by Chrysler. Part # for mine was 5078864AA. My parts guy couldn't find it under the other name. Be sure to have the dealer look yours up by the VIN number. Thanks for the great video. I'm a tech with 40 years of experience and it saved me the headache of chasing little balls around, or worse, leaving them out. You do need to perform a quick learn after you are done. That requires a higher end scanner.
I didn't need to do a quick learn, I started it up after the repair and after two drives the ECM learned my driving habits. Just plug and play
Easier way: run the trans to full temp, check it hot, running, in neutral. 2” on the stick - any stick will work. I use one of those oversized 3 foot zip ties (home depot, electrical dept) because they are white so the fluid shows up, and those little corrugations in a zip tie hold fluid and make it easy to read. 2”, done.
Thanks for the tip. This video was done years ago before most of us figure out how to get around this procedure. I don't see why Chrysler couldn't provide a dip stick. I guess they want to service the vehicle and rip you off.
Thanks Patrick nice video.
Thanks for the kind words.
What if my transmission shifts fine sometimes and then it only stays in third, turn it off and on a couple of times then it shifts fine again..! Anybody had that happened
This happened to my Routan. We changed the transmission fluid and filter. No problems. However, I was told if that didn't work, it could be a faulty solenoid, a bad connection, a failing ECM... Its best to have the vehicle fully scanned to know for sure
Thanks for a great video and detailed explanation.
I replaced my solenoid but I think I went wrong with the manual lever somewhere because I don't get anything on the first shit but the second will go to park, the third neutral and then I can't shift anymore.
I have same issue but mind is stuck on neutral so I can't start the car. Helpp
I need help and advice .how to fix this problem.
This guy is way better than scotty
Good try but no. That is not true. Scotty videos are generic and not tailored to a specific car. It's mostly tips and money saving strategies. He will say "this is how to do this to your car", assuming everybody drives a Toyota.
You got to give it to the man. He is a success and he make you laugh.
Excellent presentation !
Thanks for the encouragement.
Great video and very informative, but I did have a question. If the the car does not shift from first gear, could this be also the solenoid pack?
Hi mate any answer to your question as my tranny only has 1st and reverse? Don’t want to do more work than needed.Did you fix it? Thanks Steve
Hi ...
I replace the selenoide pack in a Dakota 2006 2w/d
The codes desapear drive ok
But i the reverse dont work now
Before with the old selenoide was working ok
What could be the prblem?
Sorry, I don't know...I would start by checking the linkage. Making sure when the cable is pulled, or push it actually actuate what need to put the transmission is reverse (example the pin on the valve body)
Thanks, very well done and comprehensive video. If I've recently changed the fluid and filter in the bottom pan, do I have to drain it again to do the solenoid pack swap? And is it advisable to replace the TCC solenoid while in there, or anything else that could be a problem in the future? Thanks in advance and appreciate the vids
Thanks for watching
I just got a vw routan 2012, this minivan spend like 5 miles for gallon.
Do you need to reprogram anything after installing the solenoid?
No programming required.
Does the dealer need to program the vehicle after the install, as in a "quick learn"? Or, is it just plug and play?
For the vehicles mention in this video, No programming required.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching.
Great video.
I ran into a issue where after reinstalling the valve body with new solenoid pack on it, I am unable to move the shifter from park, it seems stuck. Any idea as to what I can do? I made sure the pin on the range switch was installed on valve body when I put it back on.
Disconnect the cable at the manual lever, then try to move the stick. If it still cannot move, the problem is power not getting to the shift lock solenoid. Recheck any harness that was disconnect, dead battery, wrong key, etc.
If this is a minivan you can override the lockout by plucking out the tab next to the gear lever then put a pen or screw driver into the hole. Push down while at the same time move the lever out of park. If this was successfully then the problem is not with the transmission.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@pnswg01 I appreciate the response. I have not reconnected the battery yet, I just checking it before reinstalling the valve body pan cover to make sure I had the detent arm correctly reinstalled and such. I'll try the override
@@YaCatIsBizarre No connection to the battery, no getting out of park, unless the shift lever is overridden like I told you earlier.
Do you have a list of all the part numbers for the parts used in the video?
No I don't. Sometime part number get upgraded by the manufacturer so it is best to check with the car dealer.
Thanks for your video, I was able to successfully replace the solenoid pack. I had a P0765 code which prompted me to pursue changing it. Now that everything is reassembled, the van starts up in limp mode and the same code has returned. The P0765 is the only code shown. What else can I try? Is it a wiring defect somewhere? Thanks again
Did you change the complete solenoid pack?
There are detection circuits built onto the solenoid pack. Most time the problem is there and not the solenoids themselves. Even when you measure the solenoid and the value measured is good, the pack still don't work.
Additionally when the ECU send the signal to operate the solenoid it also measure the voltage drop, if it's too much (resistance too low), the code P0765 is stored.
@@pnswg01 yeah I replaced the entire solenoid pack with a Mopar unit, I'm stumped
Valve body probably restricting fluid flow. These days, its cheap to just change both for a rebuild unit. (valve body with solenoid pack). ** JUST MY OPINION **, Their detection method is too sensitive throwing the transmission into limp mode.
@@pnswg01 is it sensitive to fluid level? I haven't checked and added fluid since the repair, I did not drop the bottom pan as I did a fluid and filter change prior to this job recently.
@@YaCatIsBizarre Yes it is sensitive to fluid level. Any of the following cause...
Insufficient fluid level
Dirty or contaminated fluid
Dirty or clogged transmission filter
Defective transmission valve body
Restricted hydraulic passages
Transmission has internal failure
Faulty shift solenoid
Corroded or damaged connector
Faulty or damaged wiring
Faulty PCM
where did you find the o-rings for the oil transfer tubs at?
Chrysler Dealer.
I have the 3.8L Routan. The parts on ebay for 62TE says it will not fit my vehicle. What's the best way to be sure I buy the right solenoid pack?
First make sure your transmission is model number 62TE. The 62TE listed as having 6 speeds so if yours has 4 speeds then you have a different transmission.
@@pnswg01 Thanks for the tip. Everything I can find online shows that the Routan has the 62TE transmission. I suppose I will use a parts source that will let me return it if it's the wrong one.
@@mvsawyer If your Routan has manual gear mode, use that to check how many gears your transmission have. While driving (selector in "D" position) move the stick to the right. (It will spring back) The transmission should now go into manual mode and the display now change from showing PRND to 1 2 3 4 5 6, with the current gear highlighted. Each push right should go up one gear, and left down one gear. The display should tell you which gear you are in. 1 2 3 4 5 6. If you don't have manual mode, or you don't have 6 available gears then you don't have a 62TE transmission.
Hope this help.
got to keep it movin
2013 Crew Journey, I pulled a P0740.. which one is the torque converter clutch solenoid
The TCC solenoid is not in the solenoid pack. It is the topmost one mounted to the valve body.
There are two version of this video. It is labeled in the final version.
@@pnswg01 right, I watched both and did comparisons between google, your video, and alldata. Looks like I can open the valve body pan and get out that solenoid with one of those stupid star bits. Thanks for the reply bud, great video!
@@adventureoflinkmk2 If you recently change the oil and filter, you can change that solenoid without draining the oil. (The oil will drain down to the oil pan)
@@pnswg01 was gonna say it's been a few days since I changed the fluid and filter. I got my check engine read the other day and gave me that code
Even so, the old fluid was black and dirty.. I'd need to change it again anyway
Yo "P" BigUp!! Question, after replacing the S-pack do I need to calibrate or relearn the car ECM? If yes, how to do that?
No reprogramming needed. Just replace and go.
@@pnswg01 I did replace S-pack because my 2012 Grand Caravan dropped into limp mode with a P0755 code. Bust after a day it failed again with the same code P0755. What do you think could be the problem?
. Assuming you change the oil and filter. It could be a bad valve body or defective solenoid pack. Or even dirty fluid still in the valve body/transmission.
Check out Big Sky Engines LLC. In Buffalo NY. They have a store on EBay. You can get a remanufactured valve body with solenoid pack for 124.00. Just pop in and go. You cannot beat that price for both. I was skeptical, but they work.
@@pnswg01 Cool, I changed the oil & filter 3 times now this year and there is always metal dust stuck to the magnet. Is this normal and what is the best way to flush out the complete transmission system?
@@primalbiz That depends on how much metal dust you see. It is normal to see some metal dust, not chunks of metal.
As for the flush, I don't know. I am not a transmission guy. I just happen to do a couple of these.
To clean the valve body you would have to open it up and clean out the passages.
Can you please tell me what the little black clutch seal is. Its hard to understand you in the vedio.
2-4 Clutch oil seal. Time code 2:32 and 9:50 in the video. Same name used in the video.
@@pnswg01 What is the reason why this needs to be changed.
By the way, this is an awesome video
@@Tmil1035 It is just for maintenance. You already in that location and the part cost $8.00. Rubber seal don't last a lifetime. If it fail at some point down the road, you will have to do all that work to change a simple $8.00 seal.
Answer 2: For the same reason you change your good working water pump and pulleys when changing your timing belt.
@@Tmil1035 Thanks for watching.
Hi Patrik ! Great video! Can you wrote the part numbers ? Thank you very much !
The part number may change from the time of making this video. It is better getting the valve body with the solenoid pack already mounted.
Try a Chrysler dealer for the part number then buy from somewhere else.
There are a lot of remanufactured units out there.
@@pnswg01
Hi Patrick,
Great video. What is the part number for blue oil rings on Feed Tubes? Do you have a link where to buy them?
Thanks
TF
@@tiamfookchong7480Sorry, i don't know the part number. I bought them from Chrysler.
Hi. I write from Germany. My Chrysler have big problem with the 6 Gear. I can drive in 5 Gears, but not in the 6te. In 6. Gear comes the engine lamp. And I have a trouble code P0729.
I buy this car in winter from a privat person and the problem comes 100km after buying. She says, the oil and filter is new.
I start now with new oil and new filter. Same problem. At next, I make the input and output speed sensor new, also the transfer shaft speed sensor. - same problem with sixt gear. Now I repaired the solenoid Block. It's new and the part under this. All new. (I found not the English name :))
You have a idea, what's the problem with my trans axle?
The German mechanic in my neighborhood have no interest in American cars and nobody help me.
I hope, I hear from you. My English is so bad.
Best wishes and stay save, Daniel.
You have no idea?
Mine does the same thing
@@zuberalisyed9786 i have a transmission repair. Now is good.
Do self a favour and leave seal alone and re use the old one, it makes absolutely no difference at all.
I really appreciate the detail in the video like others have mentioned. I watched 4 or 5 other videos before coming across yours. All were similar, but you went more in-depth. Especially regarding the check balls in valve body, could have been worse if I hadn't known about them. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video to share with all of us!
That is the way UA-cam algorithm works. This was the first video on this subject yet has the least amount of views. Two versions of it. This is the final version. Other videos don't even bother with illustrations which take more time to do. Overall this is more of a slide than a video but it gets the point it's trying to show.
For me, it doesn't worth my time to make videos anymore.
Thanks for watching...
Thank you very much! The most detailed and comprehensive video on solenoid replacement!
Thanks for watching. I appreciate the comment.
Awesome video!!! Thank you very much! The most detailed and comprehensive video on solenoid replacement
Thanks for watching.
Great video but I can't find the part 2 / 4 clutch oil seal ( the small black plastic piece) please help i even called the dealership.
Sorry, it's been a long time since I made that video. I should have included the part numbers. I went to the dealer with the old one in my hand. They didn't know what it was even though I showed it to them. They showed me an exploded view of the transmission and I pointed it out. They got the number from there.
Dorman sells a good reman for under $150.
You are making the fluid check harder than it needs to be. At temp in neutral, it should read 2” on a stick - any stick. I painted a junker dipstick with liquid paper to make it white and easy to read.
If I am just replacing the TCC solenoid above the pack, can I remove the cover without draining the ATF oil ?
Yes. Park the vehicle for a while to let the oil run down into the pan.
Do I have to remove the valve body to get to the TCC Solenoid? Dumb question it may be...
JJ Van Essen Where did you purchase the TCC Solenoid. My Google-fu is currently broken... 😅
Great job. Thanks
Thanks for watching...
Hi; Patrick this is Simon I need help getting two parts O-rings for all transfer tubes, new clutch oil seal and do the valve body need to be changed? 2011 dodge grand caravan Mainstreet 3.6 codes PO 733, PO83B, PO 868, PO 732 and PO 944
I don't have the time right now to look for the meaning of all those codes. If you get a good deal for the valve body and solenoid pack together then do that. (re-manufactured, or new) . It kind of make sense if you don't know how to rebuild the valve body. Both parts will be new or functioning like new. It is also easier to swap out.
O-Rings and clutch seal are dealer items.
Can you send me the part number for all the parts
Please for the list of items needed
Thanks
Where can I buy solenoid pack
Great video! I did this job recently on a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country a few things that I would like to add that might help someone stuck or frustrated, there is a piece of exhaust pipe that runs right off the front manifold and right over top of the pan that needs to be removed, what I did that made it easier for me was remove the manifold and the two 13mm bolts in the front then follow the pipe back and there will be 2 more 13mm bolts behind the engine just remove the top on, once you remove it you can grab the exhaust pipe and pull it up out of the way. Also another thing I did was cut the tube shorter that’s on the backside of the pan, this is the fill tube that goes down inside the transmission pan below to check your fluid, don’t cut it all the way off just cut it maybe 2 inches shorter made it so much easier to put back on. As far as transmission fluid goes I started out with the 4.5 quarts i ended up adding about 9 total the 4.5 I started with was not enough and was making the transmission act up, once the right amount of fluid was added it was good as new, you can use your oil dipstick to check your fluid you’ll just need a ruler or tape measure to measure out and mark your dipstick there is a how to video on here for that as well.
How is the transmission now? My van had the P0755 code, had all the work done in this video plus the sensors on the solenoid and now the van is at a trans shop for a complete rebuild because this helped, but not fully.
Justin, van is still running with no issues. I’m sorry to hear that.
Can I solenoid pack be removed without having to remove the whole assembly?
You cannot remove the solenoid pack without first removing the valve body. The bolts to remove the solenoid pack is on the back side.
I am having trouble finding a new 2/4 clutch oil seal. Where did you get yours?
Chrysler Dealer
@@pnswg01 Part Number?
5078864AA @@frankrizzo1094