I've seen the first trick before, but the teardrop hole is new to me. Super cool and simple change to make a more printable design without affecting function. I'll definitely be using that one.
@@MasonMakesStuff even if the idea is not original, I've watched a ton of Maker's Muse and haven't seen it yet. This content is still great and has a place.
With the teardrop hole it's possible to improve further by chopping off the top part (with a horizontal line tangent to your circle) this way you'll get two very small spikes on the sides instead of one big in the middle. And a small bridge connecting them.
The teardrop works every time, and takes seconds to implement, honestly. This is exactly how additive manufacturing designs should be by default. Most people design for subtractive and it's a nightmare to print most things.
Nice, I see you’ve been watching Teaching Tech’s channel. He covered everything you went over a couple of years ago, it’s nice to see his videos are making an impact
Another improvement to holes in general is to teardrop the shape as shown or extrude a small triangle cutout and in the slicer settings search for "seam" and select sharpest corner. That way, the bore is clean and all the start stops are in an area away from the bore.
For the 2nd one, I've always added a hexagon over the circle, but your method is faster, doesn't require deleting & is parametric. I've never thought of the 1st method. Ty. 👍
Im a long ways away from in depth designing. Just did some cool tool stuff in tinkercad but that has its obvious flaws for a "serious" model. This was super informative and getting saved for future reference
Man, I've been making fiream frames in tinkercad and BOY is it difficult. Need to suck it up and learn fusion, but I haven't used actual cad software in like 6 years
If you're using prusaslicer and you need to keep the round for aesthetics, turn of thick bridges and drop the layer height. Offset the hole an additional 0.05mm and that should do it.
why not do light inner supports and just dril the REALLY SOFT plastic ? seems like youd save time, (money,) and have a more precise, longer lasting product?
Yeah idk why he's bothering with the extra modelling time, just add extra shells in your slicer, know the hole is already going to be slightly smaller than dimensions anyhow from extrusion and the plastic shrinking from cooling and just clean it up with a drill bit.
Cool tricks but does anyone think those heated insert presses are the biggest overkill ever? Its not that hard to set one straight one in a hole....just wasted 4 hours of printing and some plastic....
Don't use the height (the 5 mm) like he does. After drawing all the lines, create an angular dimension between one of the diagonal arms and a vertical dashed line. Set it at the angle at which you want to print the overhang. Most printers can easily handle a 45 degree overhand angle. Use a lower angle if your printer is bad at overhangs
It’s pretty arbitrary for me at least. I mean Id use a driven dimension to tell the angle but yeah you can do it however works best for your machine. Some printers can do larger overhangs than others.
The fact that it only takes 2 layers to make the supporting structures rather than a half dozen or so to make a chamfer. Both work but you also get a flatter mating surface with the screw rather than the whole face being angled.
@@delayedfpv it holds your soldering iron straight up and down for pressing in heated inserts into 3D printed parts! It is also a great example for learning to work with assemblies!
I've seen the first trick before, but the teardrop hole is new to me. Super cool and simple change to make a more printable design without affecting function. I'll definitely be using that one.
Glad you found it helpful 😁
Same thanks for the knowledge man definitley subscribing👍
It was popularized by maker’s muse if you want tips that are original
@@MasonMakesStuff even if the idea is not original, I've watched a ton of Maker's Muse and haven't seen it yet. This content is still great and has a place.
I had to rewatch the first one a few times to get it but that’s wildly genius. Great tip!
Thank you so much! Glad you found it helpful 😁
With the teardrop hole it's possible to improve further by chopping off the top part (with a horizontal line tangent to your circle) this way you'll get two very small spikes on the sides instead of one big in the middle. And a small bridge connecting them.
Wildly helpful!
Thank you 😊
Awesome! Thanks 👏
This is really useful, thanks!
You’re welcome!
Overhangs took me two weeks to realize what was going wrong lol. Completely new to 3D printing. These tips definitely helped.
The teardrop works every time, and takes seconds to implement, honestly. This is exactly how additive manufacturing designs should be by default. Most people design for subtractive and it's a nightmare to print most things.
Thanks you saved me sometime. I need holes that have much thicker walls but adding perimeters also affect the other parts. This will help. Thanks 👍👍
Glad I could help 😁
Nice ! My technique is to close the hole for one layer, it's easy to re-open and also Quick and for any chapes :)
Nice, I see you’ve been watching Teaching Tech’s channel. He covered everything you went over a couple of years ago, it’s nice to see his videos are making an impact
I have wood dril bit set from 3mm to 10mm. One short squeeze with drill solves all problems
I usually just make the holes slightly undersized and drill them out to the correct size.
Seems like more effort but that’ll work as well!
I've used the teardrop design for over 10 years
Fantastic!
Will definitely use the teardrop hole!
So simple, yet effective, love it!
🙌🏻
I love your videos! I love CAD it’s my favorite expression of thought. Thanks for all the awesome tips you have my subscription!
Love wholesome content like this
Thank you 😊
Ty i will use the teardrop
It’s awesome
Another improvement to holes in general is to teardrop the shape as shown or extrude a small triangle cutout and in the slicer settings search for "seam" and select sharpest corner. That way, the bore is clean and all the start stops are in an area away from the bore.
The teardrop is a good idea, am stealing that one :D
Yours for the taking 😄
For the 2nd one, I've always added a hexagon over the circle, but your method is faster, doesn't require deleting & is parametric.
I've never thought of the 1st method. Ty. 👍
Glad you found it useful! 😁 Thanks!
Fabulous stuff
Thank you 😄
the teardrop is the logo for reprap, for a reason....
Im a long ways away from in depth designing. Just did some cool tool stuff in tinkercad but that has its obvious flaws for a "serious" model.
This was super informative and getting saved for future reference
Man, I've been making fiream frames in tinkercad and BOY is it difficult. Need to suck it up and learn fusion, but I haven't used actual cad software in like 6 years
that is awesome advice
Thank you very much 😁
Thank you for the tip
I just seen that teardrop design in an stl and I was wondering why it was like that, now ik and I'll definitely include this in my future designs
Seen the teardrop years ago but I've never seen the first one, gonna have to try that one for myself!
Works like a charm!
I use teardrop shaped holes all the time but I’ve never seen the first tip. I’ll be using that in the future!
I do use the teardrop shape, with an additional horizotal line on top with 1 ir 2 laysers sagging clearance to best approximate a round hole.
I'm definitely going to have to get that floating hole trick a try
If you're using prusaslicer and you need to keep the round for aesthetics, turn of thick bridges and drop the layer height. Offset the hole an additional 0.05mm and that should do it.
For floating holes i just use supports. They pop out cleanly when you hit them with an allen key
Close second to not using them at all!
I like it
Yes I love it do more plzzz
This just makes me wish I were better at fusion and able to slice
Great ideas!
Glad you liked it ! 😄
Nice video
Thank you! ☺️
This is a good video.
Dope
I've never had a problem with holes. I just use a pre-calibrated hole
Pre-calibrated?
why not do light inner supports and just dril the REALLY SOFT plastic ? seems like youd save time, (money,) and have a more precise, longer lasting product?
Yeah idk why he's bothering with the extra modelling time, just add extra shells in your slicer, know the hole is already going to be slightly smaller than dimensions anyhow from extrusion and the plastic shrinking from cooling and just clean it up with a drill bit.
I would love to print this tool! Do you have the files?
You can find it on my Cults3D page! Just search my name 😁
I put a chamfer on the inside floating hole.
The teardrop is as old as Reprap (fun fact, the Reprap logo is the teardrop). That said, the two tangent lines should be perpendicular to each other.
Can you STL a first hole example?
Cool tricks but does anyone think those heated insert presses are the biggest overkill ever? Its not that hard to set one straight one in a hole....just wasted 4 hours of printing and some plastic....
Где же ты был раньше
Why rip off Angus at Makers Muse without giving him credit?
Not a rip off lmao
@@thematterforge At least credit where you got this. These are not original ideas.
Good
Okay, but what is the purpose of that support for a SOLDERING IRON???
No guesswork plastic heated insert installation.
I’m not understanding the floating wholes one, isn’t it just a hole all the way through?
The first few layers of the hole are treated like a bridge rather than a hole which allows the following layers to rest on top of them.
How do you determine the height of the teardrop point? Is it just arbitrary?
Don't use the height (the 5 mm) like he does. After drawing all the lines, create an angular dimension between one of the diagonal arms and a vertical dashed line. Set it at the angle at which you want to print the overhang. Most printers can easily handle a 45 degree overhand angle. Use a lower angle if your printer is bad at overhangs
It’s pretty arbitrary for me at least. I mean Id use a driven dimension to tell the angle but yeah you can do it however works best for your machine. Some printers can do larger overhangs than others.
Just make sure the height of the teardrop part is a multiple of your layer height so you get clean layers.
The first one is good. The second one not so much tbh
Would the teardrop hole work on larger threads?
Never tried it on really large ones but I would guess so!
Just taking Slant 3D info he used and making it your own.
And someone else will do that to my content lmao It’s all about presentation and preference. Slant3D isn’t the owner of these fusion techniques.
What is the advantage of the first one over just using a chamfer
The fact that it only takes 2 layers to make the supporting structures rather than a half dozen or so to make a chamfer. Both work but you also get a flatter mating surface with the screw rather than the whole face being angled.
With chamfer you'll get a wedge shape that will try to pull apart the piece when the bolt is tightened
what is that soldering iron controaption?
Heated Insert Press 😁
Whats it for? Thanks!
@@delayedfpv it holds your soldering iron straight up and down for pressing in heated inserts into 3D printed parts! It is also a great example for learning to work with assemblies!
So for making holes? Also, is it wise to use a soldering iron to "weld" plastic things?@@thematterforge
Bro where can I find the soldering iron holder file
My Cults3D page! 😁
F360 is far too expensive, & the free version for hobbyists is way too limiting. So, no.
What is so limiting about it? I've used it for all the designs on my channel thus far with no road blocks at all.
Brics shape is better
Just print with support
Supports are an excuse for horrible design