Thank you for your help! I'm just starting with metal turning, mostly because I can't buy the parts/accessories that I need for my wood turning. I like that you mention details that some guys might have skipped over, assuming that everyone watching would already know,. .... But I don't know, so thank you!!! I'm hoping to see some more of this project here somewhere. I couldn't figure out how to Chuck a piece in, to use the offset, and your setup answered it!!!😀😉😊😎🤗
I just made a MT3 on a 8inch length of mild steel, having the same problem you had, top slide not having enough travel, and it worked beautifully. I also don't have a taper turning attachment so using the tailstock offset had to be the method.
As I mentioned in an earlier comment on this series I use a boring head with a small live center mounted to turn long tapers, primarily rifle barrels. Keep the great videos coming, enjoy them every time.
I've done the same with a Criterion DBL-202 Boring head as well 3 & 4" boring heads too. These boring heads have a micrometer built into them. 1. I unscrewed my R-8 Shank from the head and screwed on an MT2 shank. 2. As you’re aware the DBL-202 boring heads have two 1/2" holes in the bottom for boring tools and one through hole at 90° to the shank. 3. I made a 1/2" shanked 60° taper point and locked it into the center tool hole of the boring head bottom. You can even buy nice points with oil holes ported in them and machine to fit. 4. In the boring head's 90° sidehole I inserted a piece of SS 1/2" stock all the way into the head until it stopped against the center points shank and locked it into place. 5. Next I took a 1" x 2" long square stock and cross-drilled two 1/2" NON-INTERSECTING holes, planning room for 1/4" Allen grub lock screws. 6. I slid the drilled block onto the 1/2" shaft sticking out of the side of the boring head and lightly locked the screw. a. Make sure the micrometer dial is facing you when inserting the SS rod. 7. Next I cut a 2nd length SS 1/2" round stock that reached the boring head cross-drilled block and touched the bedways flat. 8. One end of this rod was ground to a semi-ball to contact the bedway and the other was locked into the cross drilled block after the boring head was leveled to the ways. a. We leveled it just like you did as bubble levels are useless on a ship :) 9. Tight the allen screws and your ready for action. We did this in the Navy when multiple repetitive operations required cutting tapers and demanded the tailstock remain perfectly centered for the majority of shaft work. On small ships, Fast Frigates and Destroyers we typically had just the one lathe. The lathes taper attachments were only good in calm waters. With high wave action they produced excellent record grooving and just try precisely moving an 80 pound tailstock heaving port too starboard constantly. The boring head was minutes to setup and get on target. P.S. If you have a through hole tailstock like the big lathes and a lot of British lathe talstocks, ie... MyFord's and copies of it. I can run a 5/8" all-thread straight through the MT2 tailstock of my Jet - 6x19 lathe (rare MyFord Copy made in the mid 80's from Taiwan). These tailstock barrels are 8 inches long 1" O.D. Tube with external 1" x 8tpi Acme and a 0.635" through hole. With these tailstocks you can use an MT2 that’s back threaded for 3/8 or 10mm and fashion a makeshift draw bar and forget the above mentioned cross bar setup for stability. Sure wish UA-cam would allow photo posting in comments. John MMC USN-Ret.
I was struggling to find a face plate for my so I could use the lathe dogs I haven't even bought yet! Being a novice, this video has shown me I don't need either. I can make a dog like the one you've made & there's a hole in my chuck attachment that is ideal for a stop. Excellent video & will check the rest of your uploads too.
Thanks Lee. As always great presentation and very good subject matter. This is what makes your channel one of my favorites. Could you please make a series on machining an inside MT-3 ?
Thanks for the video. After making a few 2,3, and 5 MT's... I learned that there is certain sound that happens when you've got it right. Just my two cents. That blue stuff helps.
Works great. Very explanation. I think you need to check your frame rate on your video's or rendering. When I watch them they are always kind of jerky. Yours are the only ones I see this on. Thanks Lee. Send my an email with your Dovetail cutter's overall lengths excluding the insert, both.
My video editor has a process for re-calculating the frame rate, which is supposed to help eliminate any "upsets" caused by mixing video from two or more sources. That might be something to look for and try. You basically put the video together in the editor and re-calculate before you render the new file.
Hi RR. I don't notice any jerkiness viewing it on my laptop. I notice where it looks like he has _fast forwarded_ through some *very* short segments, could that be it, or am I misinterpreting it. At 15:55 it looks like he bumps the tripod. There was some audio distortions at around 20:30 in the video for 5-10 sec.
I love seeing you use your tailstock taper attachment lee :) Well done sir :) I can see a definite benefit to making one I could not see before - am thinking for being able to adjust TS height in both axis for the cheap chinese mini lathes :) using 2 dovetails perpendicular to each other :)
Used to get centre drills with a radius on them instead of 60 deg sides specifically for offset tailstock work but I haven't seen them for some time. Great video.
@@ryanb1874 the pilot to the body had no step and was curved from just behind the pilot to the larger drill body,the idea was to remove the sharp edge grinding away at one side of the centre allowing heavier cuts and less readjusting of the tailstock quill , they work much more smoothly than a regular centre drill.
@@pauldavidson6321 Ah ok, thanks for not calling me out too bad, I'm a feinding wannabe, I m pissed cause at the place of worked for ten years, a cleaning lady "could have gotten hurt when a new CNC machinist setup a milwaky semi automatic, she remove somerhing, to clean, Then was running it, and it crashed in the backside, ruining the work settup, luck no one hurt, but know I'm not allowed to do anything w damn lathe, even debur part with file, when I used to make little jigs and fixes, had to grovel for that, cause lack of well rounded experience, so hate life....tempted to quit cause I still have to run mandrel drivers, for my gay part of the job....
Why did you fight the dog? One thing about turning between centers is you can repeatedly take the work piece out and put it back. Set the taper and THEN put the dog on.
I am new to this lathe stuff, and have a Sherline mini lathe. I got it used, without a motor, and tried to add some rigidity to it, when I mounted the .33 hp DC motor. Sherline's method for turning tapers, (rotating the head stock), doesn't tickle my fancy, at all. It's too damn hard to get it aligned, properly. Besides, in my attempt to make it a bit more rigid, I made it rather difficult to rotate the head stock. I've been wondering if an adjustable tailstock was the way to go for turning tapers, or if I should try to make, or, (gulp!), buy a compound. (These Sherlines may be cute, little mini lathes, but there is nothing little, or cute, about the prices they want for the complex add-ons.) You, sir, have sold me on an adjustable tailstock. I came to YT, tonight, looking for how to use an adjustable tailstock to turn tapers, to help me decide, and you have done an excellant job. Now, I need to get the collet chuck upgrade done, make a drive plate and dog, make the adjustable tailstock, THEN I can turn some tapers... LOL Thanks... GeoD
Hey MrPragmaticLee I,ve been wondering about cutting a mt 3 and would have used the compound if I hadn't see your setup. I have a new mt 3 reamer if I went about 70 rpm on mild steel using lots of cutting oil and slow feeding would that make a good internal taper or do they have to be bored to be any good . Thanks ,,,, good video
I know it's not my channel, but most well machining quilities, ie, easy to get good surface finish, is an alloy that's cold rolled, hot rolled is actually more rare...and gives you a nasty shit finish.
If your pragmatic lee, Then I'm eccentric Edward, But really, I'd like to see a talented machinist build/ modify a setup that actually, uses (whatever) to constantly shift a tailstock center, in multiple directions of freedom, just call it metal art, but really, ossisilating back and fourth, and at differ rates, I wonder what would happen if someone did this, but programmed a corner variance back and fourth, like would it machine a bow, probably pretty useless teck, might give missle tops a better efficiency
Yes, but appears to not be big enough problem to prevent reasonable functionality of the MT#3 tapers. Would become increasingly problematic as slope of taper increases. What would be the calculated angle for center drilling the ends of an MT#3 taper 'blank'? And how to align so that the two center-drilled pockets are co-linear?
Thanks for this series with the tailstock taper adapter. I bought one of these on eBay and your info saves me much trial and error.
One of my favorite explanations. Referring back again after a bit. So very glad this is recorded.
All the best
Dan
Thank you for your help! I'm just starting with metal turning, mostly because I can't buy the parts/accessories that I need for my wood turning. I like that you mention details that some guys might have skipped over, assuming that everyone watching would already know,. .... But I don't know, so thank you!!! I'm hoping to see some more of this project here somewhere. I couldn't figure out how to Chuck a piece in, to use the offset, and your setup answered it!!!😀😉😊😎🤗
I just made a MT3 on a 8inch length of mild steel, having the same problem you had, top slide not having enough travel, and it worked beautifully. I also don't have a taper turning attachment so using the tailstock offset had to be the method.
As I mentioned in an earlier comment on this series I use a boring head with a small live center mounted to turn long tapers, primarily rifle barrels. Keep the great videos coming, enjoy them every time.
Got me interested so now I have to come back for the next part.
Nice video Lee, great explanation, you show how doable these projects are, cheers!
Thanks for sharing. I have a similar tailstock set over that I made and I cut MT's the same way. It's easy and a great way to do it. Great video
Lee very nice job I'm going to make one for my old Logan 11/36 keep up the great work
I've done the same with a Criterion DBL-202 Boring head as well 3 & 4" boring heads too. These boring heads have a micrometer built into them.
1. I unscrewed my R-8 Shank from the head and screwed on an MT2 shank.
2. As you’re aware the DBL-202 boring heads have two 1/2" holes in the bottom for boring tools and one through hole at 90° to the shank.
3. I made a 1/2" shanked 60° taper point and locked it into the center tool hole of the boring head bottom. You can even buy nice points with oil holes ported in them and machine to fit.
4. In the boring head's 90° sidehole I inserted a piece of SS 1/2" stock all the way into the head until it stopped against the center points shank and locked it into place.
5. Next I took a 1" x 2" long square stock and cross-drilled two 1/2" NON-INTERSECTING holes, planning room for 1/4" Allen grub lock screws.
6. I slid the drilled block onto the 1/2" shaft sticking out of the side of the boring head and lightly locked the screw.
a. Make sure the micrometer dial is facing you when inserting the SS rod.
7. Next I cut a 2nd length SS 1/2" round stock that reached the boring head cross-drilled block and touched the bedways flat.
8. One end of this rod was ground to a semi-ball to contact the bedway and the other was locked into the cross drilled block after the boring head was leveled to the ways.
a. We leveled it just like you did as bubble levels are useless on a ship :)
9. Tight the allen screws and your ready for action.
We did this in the Navy when multiple repetitive operations required cutting tapers and demanded the tailstock remain perfectly centered for the majority of shaft work.
On small ships, Fast Frigates and Destroyers we typically had just the one lathe. The lathes taper attachments were only good in calm waters. With high wave action they produced excellent record grooving and just try precisely moving an 80 pound tailstock heaving port too starboard constantly. The boring head was minutes to setup and get on target.
P.S.
If you have a through hole tailstock like the big lathes and a lot of British lathe talstocks, ie... MyFord's and copies of it. I can run a 5/8" all-thread straight through the MT2 tailstock of my Jet - 6x19 lathe (rare MyFord Copy made in the mid 80's from Taiwan). These tailstock barrels are 8 inches long 1" O.D. Tube with external 1" x 8tpi Acme and a 0.635" through hole.
With these tailstocks you can use an MT2 that’s back threaded for 3/8 or 10mm and fashion a makeshift draw bar and forget the above mentioned cross bar setup for stability.
Sure wish UA-cam would allow photo posting in comments.
John MMC USN-Ret.
I was struggling to find a face plate for my so I could use the lathe dogs I haven't even bought yet! Being a novice, this video has shown me I don't need either. I can make a dog like the one you've made & there's a hole in my chuck attachment that is ideal for a stop. Excellent video & will check the rest of your uploads too.
Muy interesante esa contrapunta desplasable para hacer conos. Da más chanse que el charriot. Si es invento suyo lo felicito
I must try and get on with my offset device. Yours does great. :)
Thanks Lee. As always great presentation and very good subject matter. This is what makes your channel one of my favorites. Could you please make a series on machining an inside MT-3 ?
Lee I expected you too cut a MT 5 for your head stock; wouldn’t have to use that adapter then . Great video thanks a bunch!
Thank you, now I know how to make a taper for my tail stock.
I love this Method Lee .. AWESOME !
Thanks for the video. After making a few 2,3, and 5 MT's... I learned that there is certain sound that happens when you've got it right. Just my two cents. That blue stuff helps.
Works great. Very explanation. I think you need to check your frame rate on your video's or rendering. When I watch them they are always kind of jerky. Yours are the only ones I see this on. Thanks Lee. Send my an email with your Dovetail cutter's overall lengths excluding the insert, both.
My video editor has a process for re-calculating the frame rate, which is supposed to help eliminate any "upsets" caused by mixing video from two or more sources. That might be something to look for and try. You basically put the video together in the editor and re-calculate before you render the new file.
Hi RR. I don't notice any jerkiness viewing it on my laptop. I notice where it looks like he has _fast forwarded_ through some *very* short segments, could that be it, or am I misinterpreting it. At 15:55 it looks like he bumps the tripod. There was some audio distortions at around 20:30 in the video for 5-10 sec.
I love seeing you use your tailstock taper attachment lee :) Well done sir :) I can see a definite benefit to making one I could not see before - am thinking for being able to adjust TS height in both axis for the cheap chinese mini lathes :) using 2 dovetails perpendicular to each other :)
Used to get centre drills with a radius on them instead of 60 deg sides specifically for offset tailstock work but I haven't seen them for some time. Great video.
Where is the radius?
You would only need that if you where doing work at a more blunt angle than the damn 60 degrees 🤓
@@ryanb1874 the pilot to the body had no step and was curved from just behind the pilot to the larger drill body,the idea was to remove the sharp edge grinding away at one side of the centre allowing heavier cuts and less readjusting of the tailstock quill , they work much more smoothly than a regular centre drill.
The radius is concave on the drill of course ,hope that helps.
@@pauldavidson6321 Ah ok, thanks for not calling me out too bad, I'm a feinding wannabe, I m pissed cause at the place of worked for ten years, a cleaning lady "could have gotten hurt when a new CNC machinist setup a milwaky semi automatic, she remove somerhing, to clean, Then was running it, and it crashed in the backside, ruining the work settup, luck no one hurt, but know I'm not allowed to do anything w damn lathe, even debur part with file, when I used to make little jigs and fixes, had to grovel for that, cause lack of well rounded experience, so hate life....tempted to quit cause I still have to run mandrel drivers, for my gay part of the job....
Why did you fight the dog? One thing about turning between centers is you can repeatedly take the work piece out and put it back. Set the taper and THEN put the dog on.
Enjoyed Lee!
ATB, Robin
Good video.
Nice Job.
I am new to this lathe stuff, and have a Sherline mini lathe. I got it used, without a motor, and tried to add some rigidity to it, when I mounted the .33 hp DC motor. Sherline's method for turning tapers, (rotating the head stock), doesn't tickle my fancy, at all. It's too damn hard to get it aligned, properly.
Besides, in my attempt to make it a bit more rigid, I made it rather difficult to rotate the head stock. I've been wondering if an adjustable tailstock was the way to go for turning tapers, or if I should try to make, or, (gulp!), buy a compound. (These Sherlines may be cute, little mini lathes, but there is nothing little, or cute, about the prices they want for the complex add-ons.)
You, sir, have sold me on an adjustable tailstock. I came to YT, tonight, looking for how to use an adjustable tailstock to turn tapers, to help me decide, and you have done an excellant job.
Now, I need to get the collet chuck upgrade done, make a drive plate and dog, make the adjustable tailstock, THEN I can turn some tapers... LOL
Thanks...
GeoD
lee as always great work mate :)
Great work all around, Lee. What lubricant are you using on the dead center of the jig? Looking forward to the *"Rest of the Story!"*
Hey MrPragmaticLee I,ve been wondering about cutting a mt 3 and would have used the compound if I hadn't see your setup. I have a new mt 3 reamer if I went about 70 rpm on mild steel using lots of cutting oil and slow feeding would that make a good internal taper or do they have to be bored to be any good . Thanks ,,,, good video
is your lathe "quick connect" tool holder a BXA or an AXA? Loved the taper video!
Great video! Nice job!
Are you using cold roll steel?
I know it's not my channel, but most well machining quilities, ie, easy to get good surface finish, is an alloy that's cold rolled, hot rolled is actually more rare...and gives you a nasty shit finish.
i want to cut a 4-1/2 tapper, what is the lenth of travel and the off set, i see you cut a mt 3 and used 4'' travel, thats what puzzled me
If your pragmatic lee, Then I'm eccentric Edward, But really, I'd like to see a talented machinist build/ modify a setup that actually, uses (whatever) to constantly shift a tailstock center, in multiple directions of freedom, just call it metal art, but really, ossisilating back and fourth, and at differ rates, I wonder what would happen if someone did this, but programmed a corner variance back and fourth, like would it machine a bow, probably pretty useless teck, might give missle tops a better efficiency
The centres are not seating correctly with the centre drilled ends because of the tailstock offset.
Yes, but appears to not be big enough problem to prevent reasonable functionality of the MT#3 tapers. Would become increasingly problematic as slope of taper increases. What would be the calculated angle for center drilling the ends of an MT#3 taper 'blank'? And how to align so that the two center-drilled pockets are co-linear?
What Steel are you using.